Hiking on Waihee ridge trail on Maui
There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched Pacific islands. Here you’ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, cascading waterfalls, soaring summits (some capped with snow), a live volcano, and beaches of every hue: gold, red, black, and even green. Roadside stands offer fruits and flowers for pocket change, and award-winning chefs deliver unforgettable feasts. Each of the six main islands possesses its own unique mix of natural and cultural treasures—and the possibilities for adventure, indulgence, and relaxation are endless.
The best Beaches
Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gorgeous to be real, this stretch along the Windward Coast is one of Hawaii’s postcard-perfect beaches—a mile of golden sand as soft as powdered sugar bordering translucent turquoise waters. The waters are calm year-round and excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tiny offshore islands complete the picture, functioning both as scenic backdrops and bird sanctuaries. See p. 108.
Hapuna Beach (Big Island): A half-mile of tawny sand, as wide as a football field, gently slopes down to crystalline waters that in summer are usually excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurfing; in winter, the thundering waves should be admired from the shore, where the picnicking and state camping facilities are first rate. See p. 226.
Waianapanapa State Park (Maui): Maui has many terrific beaches to choose from, but this one is extra special: On the dramatic Hana coast, jet-black sand is pummeled by the azure surf, sea arches and caves dot the shoreline, and a cliffside trail leads through an ancient hala forest. Plan to picnic or camp here. See p. 322.
Papohaku Beach Park (Molokai): The currents are too strong for swimming here, but the light-blond strand of sand, nearly 300 feet wide and stretching for some 3 miles—one of Hawaii’s longest beaches—is great for picnicking, walking, and watching sunsets, with Oahu shimmering in the distance. See p. 446.
Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): This large sprawl of soft golden sand is one of the prettiest in the state. Bordered by the regal Four Seasons resort on one side and lava-rock tide pools on the other, this protected marine preserve offers prime swimming, snorkeling, tide-pool exploring, picnicking, camping, and the chance to spy on resident spinner dolphins. See p. 471.
Poipu Beach (Kauai): This popular beach on the sunny South Shore has something for everyone: protected swimming, snorkeling, bodyboarding, surfing, and plenty of sand for basking—with a rare Hawaiian monk seal joining sunbathers every so often. See p. 531.
The best Authentic Experiences
Eat Local: People in Hawaii love food. Want to get a local talking? Ask for her favorite place to get poke or saimin or shave ice. The islands offer excellent fine-dining opportunities (see the examples below), but they also have plenty of respectable hole-in-the-wall joints and beloved institutions that have hung around for half a century. On Oahu, eat poke at Ono Seafood (p. 147), enjoy true Hawaiian food at Helena’s Hawaiian Food (p. 154), and join the regulars at Liliha Bakery (p. 155) for a loco moco. On Kauai, slurp saimin and shave ice at Hamura’s Saimin Stand (p. 579).
Feel History Come Alive at Pearl Harbor (Oahu): On December 7, 1941, Japanese warplanes bombed Pearl Harbor, forcing the United States to enter World War II. Standing on the deck of the USS Arizona Memorial—the eternal tomb for the 1,177 sailors trapped below when the battleship sank—is a profound experience. You can also visit the USS Missouri Memorial, where the Japanese signed their surrender on September 2, 1945. See p. 81.
Experience Hula: Each year the city of Hilo on the Big Island hosts a prestigious competition celebrating ancient Hawaiian dance: the Merrie Monarch Festival (p. 47), held the week after Easter. On Molokai, reverent dancers celebrate the birth of hula during the 3-day Ka Hula Piko festival (p. 459) held in mid-summer. Year-round, local halau (hula troupes) perform free shows at several shopping centers. On Oahu, check out the Bishop Museum (p. 73), which stages excellent performances on weekdays, or head to the Halekulani’s House Without a Key (p. 171), where the sunset functions as a beautiful backdrop to equally beautiful hula. On Maui, the Old Lahaina Luau (p. 426) is the real deal, showcasing Hawaiian dance and storytelling nightly on a gracious, beachfront stage.
Ponder Petroglyphs: More than 23,000 ancient rock carvings decorate the lava fields at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 213) on the Big Island. You can see hundreds more on a short hike through the Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve (p. 194), near the Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast. Go early in the morning or late afternoon when the angle of the sun lets you see the forms clearly. On Lanai, fantastic birdmen and canoes are etched into rocks at Luahiwa (p. 468), Shipwreck Beach (p. 472), and Kaunolu Village (p. 470).
Trek to Kalaupapa (Molokai): The only access to this hauntingly beautiful and remote place is by foot or nine-seater plane. Hikers can descend the 26 switchbacks on the sea cliff’s narrow 3-mile trail; a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Once you’ve reached the peninsula, you’ll board the Damien Tours bus (p. 440)—your transport back to a time when islanders with Hansen’s Disease (leprosy) were exiled to Molokai and Father Damien devoted his life to care for them.
The best Outdoor Adventures
Surfing on Oahu: Whether you’re learning to surf or a pro, Oahu has waves for everyone. Few experiences are more exhilarating than standing on your first wave, and Waikiki offers lessons, board rentals, and gentle surf. During the winter, the North Shore gets big and rough, so stay out of the water if you’re not an experienced surfer. But even the view from the beach, watching the daredevils take off on waves twice their height, is thrilling. See p. 117.
Witness the Whales: From December to April, humpback whales cruise Hawaiian waters. You can see these gentle giants from almost any shore; simply scan the horizon for a spout. Hear them, too, by ducking your head below the surface and listening for their otherworldly music. Boats on every island offer whale-watching cruises, but Maui is your best bet for seeing the massive marine mammals up close. Try Trilogy (p. 335) for a first-class catamaran ride or, if you’re adventurous, climb into an outrigger canoe with Hawaiian Paddle Sports (p. 337).
Waimea Canyon, Kauai
Visit Volcanoes: The entire island chain is made of volcanoes; don’t miss the opportunity to explore them. On Oahu, the whole family can hike to the top of ancient, world-famous Diamond Head Crater (p. 117). At Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 213) on the Big Island, where Kilauea has been erupting since 1983, acres of new black rock and billowing sulfurous steam give hints of Pele’s presence even when red-hot lava isn’t visible. On Maui, Haleakala National Park (p. 312) provides a bird’s-eye view into a long-dormant volcanic crater.
A lei is aloha turned tangible, communicating “hello,” “goodbye,” “congratulations,” and “I love you” in a single strand of fragrant flowers. Leis are the perfect symbol for the islands: Their fragrance and beauty are enjoyed in the moment, but the aloha they embody lasts long after they’ve faded.
Traditionally, Hawaiians made leis out of flowers, shells, ferns, leaves, nuts, and even seaweed. Some were twisted, some braided, and some strung. Then, as now, they were worn to commemorate special occasions, honor a loved one, or complement a hula dancer’s costume. Leis are available at most of the islands’ airports, from florists, and even at supermarkets. You can find wonderful, inexpensive leis at the half-dozen lei shops on Maunakea Street in Honolulu’s Chinatown and at Castillo Orchids (
808/329-6070), 73-4310 Laui St., off Kaiminani Drive in the Kona Palisades subdivision, across from the Kona Airport on the Big Island. You can also arrange in advance to have a lei-greeter meet you as you deplane. Greeters of Hawaii (www.greetersofhawaii.com; 800/366-8559) serves the major airports on Oahu, Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island. On Molokai, you can sew your own at Molokai Plumerias (p. 437).
Get Misted by Waterfalls: Waterfalls thundering down into sparkling pools are some of Hawaii’s most beautiful natural wonders. If you’re on the Big Island, head to the spectacular 442-foot Akaka Falls (p. 200), north of Hilo. On Maui, the Road to Hana offers numerous viewing opportunities. At the end of the drive you’ll find Oheo Gulch (p. 323), with some of the most dramatic and accessible waterfalls on the islands. Kauai is laced with waterfalls, especially along the North Shore and in the Wailua area, where you can drive right up to the 151-foot Opaekaa Falls (p. 507) and the 80-foot Wailua Falls (p. 507). On Molokai, the 250-foot Mooula Falls (p. 435) can be visited only via a guided hike through breathtaking Halawa Valley, but that, too, is a very special experience.
Peer into Waimea Canyon (Kauai): It may not share the vast dimensions of Arizona’s Grand Canyon, but Kauai’s colorful gorge—a mile wide, 3,600 feet deep, and 14 miles long—has a grandeur all its own, easily viewed from several overlooks just off Kokee Road. Hike to Waipoo Falls to experience its red parapets up close, or take one of the helicopter rides that swoop between its walls like the white-tailed tropicbird. See p. 520.
Explore the Napali Coast (Kauai): With the exception of the Kalalau Valley Overlook, the fluted ridges and deep, primeval valleys of the island’s northwest portion can’t be viewed by car. You must hike the 11-mile Kalalau Trail (p. 511), kayak (p. 535), take a snorkel cruise (p. 533), or book a helicopter ride (p. 521) to experience its wild, stunning beauty.
Four-Wheel It on Lanai (Lanai): Off-roading is a way of life on barely paved Lanai. Rugged trails lead to deserted beaches, abandoned villages, sacred sites, and valleys filled with wild game.
The best Hotels
Halekulani (Oahu; www.halekulani.com; 
800/367-2343): When price is no object, this is really the only place to stay. A place of Zen amid the buzz, this beach hotel is the finest Waikiki has to offer. Even if you don’t stay here, pop by for a sunset mai tai at House Without a Key to hear live Hawaiian music while a lovely hula dancer sways to the music. See p. 130.
Disney Aulani Resort, an upscale hotel and entertainment resort by Walt Disney on the island of Oahu in Hawaii
Royal Hawaiian (Oahu): This pink oasis, hidden away among blooming gardens within the concrete jungle of Waikiki, is a stunner. It’s vibrant and exotic, from the Spanish-Moorish arches in the common areas to the pink-and-gold pineapple wallpaper in the Historic Wing’s guest rooms. See p. 133.
Kahala Hotel & Resort (Oahu): Situated in one of Oahu’s most prestigious residential areas, the Kahala provides the peace and serenity of a neighbor-island vacation, but with the conveniences of Waikiki just a 10-minute drive away. The lush, tropical grounds include an 800-foot, crescent-shaped beach and a 26,000-square-foot lagoon (home to two bottlenose dolphins, sea turtles, and tropical fish). See p. 137.
Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island): The seven pools alone will put you in seventh heaven at this exclusive yet environmentally conscious oasis of understated luxury, which also offers a private, 18-hole golf course, an award-winning spa, exquisite dining, and impeccable service—with no resort fee. See p. 260.
Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo—A DoubleTree by Hilton (Big Island): Thanks to a $20-million renovation that blended chic, modern furnishings with a focus on hula, this long-neglected icon along scenic Banyan Drive now stands heads and shoulders above any other hotel in Hilo—and is a great value anywhere in the state. The gleaming lobby and bay-view lounge host hula videos, displays, and free shows, while images of dancers by acclaimed photographer Kim Taylor Reece grace all 388 rooms (many with dazzling views) and public spaces. See p. 268.
Westin Hapuna Beach Resort (Big Island): Dramatically resculpted and rebranded as a Westin in 2018, this hidden gem on the Kohala Coast already boasted huge rooms, an enormous beach, and one exceptional restaurant; now it offers a large family pool with separate adult infinity-edge pool, revitalized lobby and new dining outlets, and Westin’s luxurious beds and showers. Also consider its gorgeous but pricier sister hotel, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 264), part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection but independently owned. See p. 263.
Andaz Maui (Maui): This Wailea resort offers a prime beachfront locale, chic decor, an apothecary-style spa, and two phenomenal restaurants, including one by superstar chef Masaharu Morimoto. Accommodations here ramp up the style quotient with crisp white linens, warm wood furniture, and mid-century accents. Wrap yourself in a plush robe and nosh on the complimentary minibar snacks from the sanctuary of your private lanai. At the ‘Awili Spa you can mix your own massage oil and body scrubs; yoga and fitness classes are free. See p. 375.
Travaasa Hana (Maui): Nestled in the center of quaint Hana town, this 66-acre resort wraps around Kauiki Head, the dramatic point where Queen Kaahumanu was born. You’ll feel like royalty in one of the Sea Ranch Cottages here. Floor-to-ceiling sliding doors open to spacious lanais, some with private hot tubs. You’ll be far from shopping malls and sports bars, but exotic red-, black-, and white-sand beaches are a short walk or shuttle ride away. This is luxury in its purest form. See p. 383.
Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay (Lanai): This gracious resort on Lanai’s south coast overlooks Hulopoe Beach—one of the finest stretches of sand in the state. Guest rooms are palatial, outfitted with museum-quality art and automated everything—from temperature, lighting, and sound system to fancy toilets! The suites have deep soaking Japanese cedar tubs, and views that stretch for an eternity. The restaurants and service throughout the resort are impeccable. See p. 471.
Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa (Kauai): At this sprawling, family-embracing resort in Poipu, the elaborate, multi-tiered fantasy pool and saltwater lagoon more than compensate for the rough waters of Keoneloa (Shipwrecks) Beach. Don’t fret: Calmer Poipu Beach is just a short drive away. Anara Spa and Poipu Bay Golf Course offer excellent adult diversions, too. See p. 467.
Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa
The Lodge at Kukuiula (Kauai): Thanks to an array of luxuriously furnished cottages, bungalows, and villas, overnight guests can enjoy all the perks of home ownership at the island’s most exclusive resort—including access to its private golf course, unrivaled spa, and fine dining—without the overhead of a multimillion-dollar second (or third) home. See p. 568.
The best Restaurants
Alan Wong’s Restaurant (Oahu): Master strokes at this shrine of Hawaii Regional Cuisine include ginger-crusted fresh onaga (red snapper), a whole-tomato salad dressed with li hing mui (plum powder) vinaigrette, and opihi (limpet) shooters. Alan Wong reinvents local flavors for the fine-dining table in ways that continue to surprise and delight. See p. 155.
Sushi Izakaya Gaku (Oahu): The city is dotted with izakayas, Japanese pubs serving small plates made for sharing, and this gem is the best of them all. You’ll discover life beyond maguro and hamachi nigiri with seasonal, uncommon seafood, such as sea bass sashimi and grilled ray. Thanks to the large population of Japanese nationals living in Honolulu, the Japanese food here is some of the best outside of Japan. But it’s not just straight-from-Tokyo fare at Gaku; the chefs here scour fish markets around town daily for the best local fish. See p. 156.
The Pig and the Lady (Oahu): This casual restaurant, with its traditional Vietnamese noodle soups and playful interpretations of Southeast Asian food, is both soulful and surprising. The soulful: the pho of the day, drawing on recipes from chef Andrew Le’s mother. The surprising: hand-cut pasta with pork and lilikoi (passion fruit). The best of both worlds: a pho French dip banh mi, with slices of tender brisket and a cup of pho broth for dipping. See p. 152.
Ka‘ana Kitchen (Maui): Treat chef Isaac Bancaco’s grid menu like a gourmet bingo card; every combination is a winner. Start off with a hand-mixed cocktail and the ahi tataki: ruby-red tuna, heirloom tomato, and fresh burrata sprinkled with black salt and nasturtium petals. The $45 breakfast buffet grants you access to the kitchen’s novel chilled countertops, stocked with every delicacy and fresh juice you can imagine. See p. 407.
Mama’s Fish House (Maui): Overlooking Kuau Cove on Maui’s North Shore, this restaurant is a South Pacific fantasy. Every nook is decorated with some fanciful artifact of salt-kissed adventure. The menu lists the anglers who reeled in the day’s catch; you can order ono “caught by Keith Nakamura along the 40-fathom ledge near Hana” or deep-water ahi seared with coconut and lime. The Tahitian Pearl dessert is almost too stunning to eat. See p. 416.
Tin Roof (Maui): Celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon won the hearts of Top Chef fans not once, but twice. He and his wife, Janice, opened their own humble to-go spot in an industrial Kahului strip mall. Simeon’s Filipino-inspired menu is so much fun: buy a 50-cent “dime bag” of house-made furikake to sprinkle on your mochiko chicken. Add a 6-minute egg to your pork belly bowl. You’ll want to Instagram yourself eating the chocolate birthday cake bibingka, covered in sprinkles. See p. 392.
Merriman’s (Waimea, Big Island): Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, oversees a locally inspired culinary empire that also includes Monkeypod Kitchen and Moku Kitchen outlets on Maui and Oahu (p. 162 and 150), as well as the Beach House on Kauai (p. 584), famed for sunset photo ops. His original Waimea restaurant, opened in 1988, still merits the drive upcountry from the coast. See p. 281.
Umekes (Kailua-Kona and Waimea, Big Island): The island specialty of diced raw, marinated seafood poke—pronounced po-kay—comes in many varieties at this hole-in-the-wall takeout counter, with just as delicious, farm-fresh sides. Chef Nakoa Pabre also runs a handsome sit-down version with full bar, Umekes Fishmarket Bar and Grill ( 808/238-0571), and opened Umekes Waimea in late 2017 ( 808/315-8739) See p. 274.
Pueo’s Osteria (Waikoloa, Big Island): Former Four Seasons Hualalai chef James Babian takes his inspiration from Tuscany and, as much as he can, uses ingredients from local farmers and fishermen, creating exceptionally fresh, well-priced cuisine paired with an intriguing wine list. Another reason to drive 15 minutes up the mountain: The thoughtfully crafted bar menu is served nightly. See p. 280.
In Hawaii, mother nature is still in charge
Recent events in Hawaii remind us that these islands remain very much subject to the whims of Mother Nature. In April 2018, torrential rains on the island of Kauai washed out roads and hiking trails and destroyed or damaged homes and businesses, primarily on the North Shore. While most of the damage has been repaired, several popular North Shore beaches and the Kalalau Trail remain closed at press time.
Then, on April 30, a series of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions began on the Big Island in a remote area well-known for volcanic activity, although not at this scale for nearly 40 years. Dozens of home been destroyed by molten lava, asphalt roads have cracked open and forests set ablaze. As we go to press, the lava flow continues and shows no signs of slowing down. Sections of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park are closed until the crisis is averted. It’s important to stress that the lava is only affecting the Puna region of the Big Island; the majority of the Big Island remains open for business, perfectly safe and just as paradisiacal as ever. (Or at least that was the case at press time). See chapters 5 and 9 for more specific information about closures and changes due to these natural events.
For the latest update on the Big Island’s volcanic activity, visit https://volcanoes.usgs.gov/volcanoes/kilauea/status.html. For civil defense alerts, including road closures, on the Big Island, visit www.hawaiicounty.gov/active-alerts.
Bar Acuda (Hanalei, Kauai): When the sun goes down, the surfing set freshens up for a night on the town at this stylish tapas bar. Created by Jim Moffat, a former star of San Francisco’s culinary scene, Bar Acuda’s fare is centered around fresh seafood and seasonal pairings inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. See p. 580.
Red Salt (Poipu, Kauai): Hidden inside the jewel box of boutique hotel Koa Kea is this equally brilliant dining room, where local seafood and produce shine under executive chef Noelani Planas. The evening sushi bar and tropical breakfasts are also not to be missed. See p. 586.
Eating House 1849 (Poipu, Kauai): Hawaii Regional Cuisine co-founder Roy Yamaguchi closed the long-lived Garden Island outpost of his signature Roy’s brand to open this more casual, plantation-themed restaurant in the open-air Shops at Kukuiula. Returning to his island roots with hearty small plates and family-style dishes made it an instant success, now replicated at two Oahu locations. See p. 586.
Nobu Lanai (Lanai): Lanai now ranks among New York, Milan, Budapest, and Mexico City as somewhere one can dine at a Nobu restaurant—a measure of how fun a place is, in the immortal words of pop star Madonna. The best way to experience this epicurean phenomenon is to order the omakase—the chef’s tasting menu—for $120. Each dish is as delicious as it is artful. See p. 481.
The best of Hawaii for Kids
Aulani, a Disney Resort & Spa, Ko Olina, Hawaii (Oahu): Disney built this high-rise hotel and spa (with timeshare condos) on 21 acres on the beach, about an hour’s drive from Waikiki. It’s a great destination for families, with a full children’s program, plus areas and activities for teens and tweens. Mickey, Minnie, and other Disney characters walk the resort and stop to take photos with kids. See p. 139.
Polynesian Cultural Center (Oahu): Experience the songs, dance, and costumes of six Pacific islands and archipelagos at the Disneyland version of Polynesia. There are plenty of activities to engage kids, such as spear-throwing competitions and Maori games that test hand-eye coordination. See p. 99.
Build Sandcastles on Kailua Beach (Oahu): This gorgeous beach is kid-friendly, with sand that slopes gently into the water. The waves vary in spots—perfect for the young ones to splash around and older kids to boogie board. The broad stretch of sand is also great for building castles. See p. 108.
Students from University of Hawaii perform traditional Tahiti dance on a canoe at the Polynesian Cultural Center
Slumber Party at the Aquarium (Maui): Kids can book a sleepover in the Maui Ocean Center, staying up into the wee hours to watch glowing jellyfish and other nocturnal animals. See p. 309.
Snorkel in Kealakekua Bay (Big Island): Everyone can enjoy the dazzling display of marine life here on a Fair Wind cruise (www.fair-wind.com; 800/677-9461 or 808/322-2788), which offers inner tubes and underwater viewing boxes for little ones (or older ones) who don’t want to get their faces wet. Two water slides and a spacious boat with a friendly crew add to the fun. See p. 232.
Play at Lydgate Park (Kauai): If kids tire of snorkeling in the protected swimming area of Lydgate Beach, a giant wooden fantasy play structure and bridge to the dunes await, along with grassy fields and several miles of biking trails. See p. 506.
Ride a Sugarcane Train (Kauai): At Kilohana Plantation, families can enjoy an inexpensive, narrated train ride through fields, forest, and orchards, with a stop to feed goats and wild pigs. See p. 505.
Frolic in a Playful Garden (Kauai): The “Under the Rainbow” children’s garden at Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park offers a hedge maze, treehouse, mini railroad, and wading pool, among other delights. See p. 510.
