Rabanel, Jean-Luc: 621
Rail passes: 27, 1145–1147, 1150, 1153–1154, 1168
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rance River: 341, 348; canoeing, 344; cruises, 350
Rance River Valley: 349–351
Ratatouille (movie): 69
Réattu Museum (Arles): 611
Refuge du Montenvers (Alps): 841
Refuge-Hôtel La Flégère: 833
Refuge-Plan de l’Aiguille: 860
Refuge-Plan de l’Aiguille (Alps): 840, 846, 860
Reims: 16, 1046–1071; cuisine, 1045; eating, 1069–1071; helpful hints, 1049; maps, 1046–1047, 1050–1051; planning tips, 1044, 1046–1047; sights/activities, 1052–1069; sleeping, 1069; tourist information, 1048; tours, 1049; transportation, 1044–1045, 1048–1049, 1049, 1052, 1071
Reims Cathedral: 1053–1057
Reims Market Hall: 1053, 1060, 1070–1071
Renault (Paris): 111
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: 93, 104, 245, 995
Rental properties: See Apartment rentals
RER (Réseau Express Régionale): 39–40, 42–43, 172–176, 187
Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon): 962–963
Resources from Rick Steves: 1168–1169
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Rhône River: 627, 633, 637, 936, 961, 971
Rhône Valley: 971–973
Ribeauvillé: 1012
Richard the Lionheart: 241, 433–434, 449, 485, 916
Riquewihr: 1011, 1024, 1025–1028
Rivau Château: 437
Riviera: 14, 702–805; at a glance, 704; art scene, 711; cuisine, 712; helpful hints, 704–705; home base, 702–703; maps, 703, 707; planning tips, 703–704; tours, 710–711; transportation, 705–710. See also specific destinations
Rocamadour: 518–526; eating, 525–526; history of, 522; map, 517; sights/activities, 520–525; sleeping, 525
Rocamadour Château: 521
Roc de Chère: 820
Rodin, Auguste: 95, 958; Museum (Paris), 57, 102–103
RoissyBus: 171
Roman Bridge (Julien): 700–701
Roman Bridge (Vaison-la-Romaine): 677
Romanèche-Thorins: 972
Romanée-Conti (Vosne-Romanée): 905
Roman sites (ancient Romans): 384, 555, 589–591, 762, 1084; Alise Ste-Reine, 908–909; Arles, 593, 601–606, 611–613; Glanum (St-Rémy), 663; Lyon, 950–952; Orange, 666–670; Paris, 61; Pont du Gard, 649–653; Pont Julien, 700–701; Reims, 1059–1060; Vaison-la-Romaine, 577, 674–676
Roman theaters: See Théâtre Antique
Roque St-Christophe: 497, 505–506
Rosary, Chapel of the (Vence): 803–804
Rothéneuf: 366
Rouen: 228, 230–249; eating, 248–249; helpful hints, 234–235; map, 232–233; planning tips, 231; self-guided walk, 235–244; sights/activities, 244–247; sleeping, 247–248; tourist information, 231; transportation, 231, 234, 249
Rouen Great Clock: 238–239
Rouen Museum of Fine Arts: 244–245
Rouen Plague Cemetery: 243–244
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques: 108, 407, 814; biographical sketch, 816
Roussillon: 694–697
Route de la Champagne (Reims): 1064, 1066–1068; map, 1067
Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 246–247
Route des Bastides Albigeoises: 544–547
Route des Grands Crus: 898, 904–907; map, 902
Route du Beaujolais: 972
Route du Vin (Alsace): 1003–1013; map, 1005
Route Napoléon: 705
Route of the Ancient Abbeys: 246–247
Route of the Bastides: 544–547
Royal Abbey of Fontevraud: 448–450
Rue Cler (Paris): 56, 101, 135–141; eating, 150–156; maps, 136–137, 152–153; sleeping, 138–141
Rue de Bretagne (Paris): 147, 164
Rue de Dinan (St-Malo): 360
Rue de Général de Gaulle (Riquewihr): 1026
Rue de la Bombarde (Lyon): 955
Rue de la Cavalerie (Arles): 600
Rue de la Cordonnerie (Dinan): 346, 353
Rue de la Monnaie (Lyon): 964
Rue de la Monnaie (Strasbourg): 1039
Rue de la Paix (Paris): 129
Rue de la Poissonnerie (Nice): 728–729
Rue de la République (Annecy): 815
Rue de la République (Arles): 606–607
Rue de la République (Sarlat): 468
Rue de la Salamandre (Sarlat): 465
Rue de Lutèce (Paris): 76
Rue des Marchands (Colmar): 984–985, 988–989
Rue des Pierres Plantées (Lyon): 960
Rue des Rosiers (Paris): 118, 141, 144; eating, 163
Rue des Saules (Paris): 125
Rue des Tables Claudiennes (Lyon): 961
Rue des Teinturiers (Avignon): 637–638; eating, 645–646
Rue Droite (Nice): 729
Rue du Bœuf (Lyon): 955–956
Rue du Cloître Notre-Dame (Paris): 69
Rue du Conseil Souverain (Colmar): 999
Rue du Docteur Fanton (Arles): 608, 622
Rue du Jerzual (Dinan): 347–348
Rue du Maroquin (Strasbourg): 1037–1038
Rue du Mont Cenis (Paris): 125
Rue du Rempart (Eguisheim): 1014–1015
Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 237–238
Rue Mercière (Lyon), eating: 967, 970
Rue Nationale (Amboise): 385
Rue Obscure (Villefranche): 757–758
Rue Rabelais (Chinon): 428
Rue Royale (Paris): 128
Rue St. Dominique (Paris), eating: 156
Rue St. François de Paule (Nice): 726–727
Rue St. Honoré (Paris): 128
Rue St. Jean (Lyon): 955
Rue St. Séverin (Paris): 72–73
Rue Voltaire (Arles): 600–601
Rue Voltaire (Chinon): 432
Russian Cathedral (Nice): 720, 734
RV rentals: 1158
Ryes: sleeping, 293
Sacré-Cœur (Paris): 57, 123–125
S. Paul Monastery and Hospital (St-Rémy): 661–663
St. Aubin: 899–900
St. Bénezet Bridge (Avignon): 633
St. Catherine Church (Honfleur): 255–256
St. Catherine’s Tower (Dinan): 348
St-Cirq Lapopie: 526–528
St-Cyprien: market, 460
St-Denis Church (Amboise): 384–385
Ste. Cécile Cathedral (Albi): 536–539
Sainte-Chapelle (Paris): 56, 73–76, 130–131; map, 74
Ste. Madeleine Basilica (Vézelay): 917–920
Ste-Mère Eglise: 311–312
St. Etienne Cathedral (Bourges): 925–926
St. Francois de Sales Church (Annecy): 814
St. Genest Church (Flavigny): 911
St-Geniès: market, 460
St. Georges Church (Lyon): 947
St. Georges de Boscherville Abbey: 246
St-Jacut-de-la-Mer: 364
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: 768
St. Jean Cathedral (Lyon): 953
St-Jeannet: 803–804
St-Laurent-sur-Mer: 300; sleeping, 307
St. Leo IX Chapel (Eguisheim): 1015–1016
St. Louis Cathedral (Blois): 415
St. Maclou Church (Rouen): 243
St-Malo bulldogs: 359
St-Malo Ramparts: 354, 358–360
St-Marcellin-lès-Vaison: 682
St. Martin Church (Colmar): 990
St-Martin-de-Boscherville: sleeping, 247–248
St. Michael’s Chapel (Rocamadour): 523
St. Michael’s Church (Chamonix): 834
St. Michael’s Church (Villefranche): 757
St. Michel Church (Roussillon): 695
St-Mihiel: 1082
St. Nazaire Tower (Carcassonne): 556
St. Nicholas Church (Blois): 415
St-Paul-de-Vence: 800–802
St. Peter’s Cathedral (Annecy): 814–815
St. Peter’s Church (Mont St-Michel): 325–326
St. Pierre Chapel (Villefranche): 757
St. Pierre Church (Avignon): 635
St-Rémy-de-Provence: 660–665; map, 662
St. Réparate Cathedral (Nice): 729–730
St-Romain: 901
St. Sacerdos Cathedral (Sarlat): 465
St. Salvy Church and Cloister (Albi): 542
St. Sauveur Church (Dinan): 348
St. Saveur Church (Rocamadour): 524
St-Suliac: 350
St. Sulpice Church (Fougères): 368
St. Sulpice Church (Paris): 104–105
St. Thomas Church (Strasbourg): 1038–1039
St. Trophime Church (Arles): 605–606
St. Trophime Cloisters (Arles): 606
St. Vincent Church (Les Baux): 658
Salin de Giraud: 615
Salvador Dalí Theater-Museum (Figueres): 577
Sanctuary of Our Lady of Rocamadour: 521, 523–524
Santenay: 901
Santons: 684, 726–727; Museum (Les Baux), 658–659
Saône River: 936, 939, 947, 961; cruises, 946, 961
Sarlat-la-Canéda: 461–473; eating, 472–473; helpful hints, 462, 464; maps, 463, 471; markets, 460, 462, 466–467; self-guided walk, 464–468; sleeping, 468–471; tourist information, 461; transportation, 461–462, 473
Satie (Erik) Museum (Honfleur): 258
Saving Private Ryan (movie): 287, 299, 1177
Savoie: See Alps; Chamonix
Schweitzer, Albert: 1011, 1020; biographical sketch, 1021; Museum (Kaysersberg), 1023–1024
Séguret: 682–685
Seine River: 34, 78–79, 246, 247, 249, 252, 259, 260, 384; beaches, in Paris, 79; cruises, 52–53, 132
Sensation Vin (Beaune): 884
Sentier Touristique de Tirepoil: 795–796
Sewers of Paris: 100–101
Shakespeare and Company (Paris): 72
Shopping: clothing sizes, 1179; hours, 1099; Paris, 117–118, 126–129; VAT refunds, 1104. See also specific destinations
Sightseeing: best three-week trip, 20–23; with children, 1119; designing an itinerary, 18–19, 22–24; maps and navigation tools, 1105; must-see destinations, 12–14; planning tips, 1105–1107; reservations, 27, 1106; worth-it destinations, 15–16. See also specific sights and destinations
Sigolsheim: 1024
Silk, in Lyon: 955–960
SIM cards: 1143
Sisteron: 705
Skiing, in Chamonix: 854–855
Sleep code: 1108
Sleeping: 1107–1121; booking sites, 1110; budget tips, 25–26; rates and deals, 1108–1109; reservations, 25, 27, 1114–1115. See also specific destinations
Sleeping Beauty castle (Ussé): 437
Smartphones: 28, 1141–1143. See also Apps
Sorbonne (Paris): 73
Sorgue River: 692
Souillac: market, 460
Spain: day trip, 577
Special events: 1171–1173. See also specific destinations
Stained Glass Center, International (Chartres): 214
Stein, Gertrude: 122
Strasbourg: 1030–1043; eating, 1041–1042; helpful hints, 1033–1034; map, 1032–1033; planning tips, 1030–1031; sights/activities, 1034–1040; sleeping, 1041; tourist information, 1031; transportation, 1031–1033, 1042–1043
Strasbourg Archaeological Museum: 1037
Strasbourg Cathedral: 1035–1037, 1040
Strasbourg-Entzheim Airport: 1032–1033
Strasbourg Historical Museum: 1038
Strasbourg Museum of Fine Arts: 1037
Strasbourg Pass: 1031
Suzette: 687
Switzerland: car travel, 808; hiking, 853; Martigny, 832, 856–857
Sword of Roland: 523
Synagogue, Avignon: 636
Taittinger (Reims): 1063
Taizé: 934–935
Talloires: 820
Tanners’ Quarter (Colmar): 986
Tapisserie de Bayeux: 270–271
Taxes: VAT refunds, 1104
Taxis: 1156; Lyon, 945; Nice, 718–719; Paris, 47–48, 133–134; to/from airports, 173, 175, 176; tipping, 1104. See also specific destinations
Téléphériques: See Gondolas, in Chamonix
Telephones: 1141–1143
Temperatures, average monthly: 1179
TGV trains: 1146, 1151–1152; map, 1148–1149; Paris, 177–178, 182–183
Théâtre Antique (Roman Theater): Arles, 604; Lyon, 944, 950–952; Orange, 666–669
Théâtre des Jacobins (Dinan): 345
Theft alerts: 32, 1098; Nice, 716; Paris, 36–37, 42, 99
Thello Train: 183
Thermes de Constantin (Arles): 611
Time zones: 1099
Tintin (comic strip): 424
Tipping: 1103–1104
Tobacco stands (tabacs): 135, 1144; Paris, 38–39
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Paris): 111
Tonnellerie Francois Frères (St-Romain): 901
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri: 91–92; Museum (Albi), 539–542
Tour Bidouane (St-Malo): 359
Tour de France: 1172
Tour de Madeloc: 576–577
Tour Eiffel (Paris): 56, 96–100, 132; reservations, 27, 97–98
Tour guides: 27–28. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 1097–1098. See also specific destinations
Tourist scams, in Paris: 37
Tourist trains: See Petit train
Tour Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 246
Tour Métallique (Lyon): 947
Tour Montparnasse (Paris): 108–109
Tour Philippe-le-Bel (Villeneuve): 639
Tours: Rick Steves, 1168. See also specific destinations
Tours-sur-Marne: 1066
Train stations, in Paris: 177–181; map, 177
Train travel: 1145–1154; baggage check, 1152–1153; best three-week trip, 22–23; budgeting, 25; coping with strikes, 1151; general tips, 1153–1154; glossary of terms, 1146; map, 1148–1149; Paris, 42–43, 176–183; reservations, 27, 1151–1152, 1153–1154; schedules, 1145; tickets, 1147, 1150, 1151, 1153–1154. See also specific destinations
Tranchée des Baïonnettes (Verdun): 1081
Trans Côte d’Azur: 710, 719–720, 749
Transportation: 1144–1167; budgeting, 25; budget tips, 26; map, 1148–1149; pre-booking, 27. See also Boat cruises; Buses; Car travel; Train travel; and specific destinations
Travel smarts: 31–32
Travel tips: 1098–1100
Treverien: 349
Triangle of Friendship (Chamonix): 834
Trianon Palaces (Versailles): 187, 188, 189, 201–203
Trip costs: 25
Troglodyte houses (Amboise): 387
Trophée des Alpes: 772–773
Truffles: 128, 459, 462, 467, 490, 699
Tuileries Garden (Paris): 79
Turckheim: 1010–1011
Uber: 1156; Lyon, 945; Nice, 718–719; Paris, 47, 133–134, 173, 175
Unterlinden Museum (Colmar): 991–995
Ussé Château: 437
Utah Beach: 308–312; map, 282–283
Utah Beach Landing Museum: 309–310
Uzès: market, 593
Vacqueyras: 687
Vaison-la-Romaine: 585, 672–682; eating, 680–682; helpful hints, 672–674; map, 673; sights/activities, 674–679; sleeping, 679–680; tourist information, 672; transportation, 672, 682
Valle d’Aosta, Italy: 857
Vallée Blanche (Alps): 855
Vandenesse-en-Auxois: 908
Van der Weyden, Roger: 879–880
Van Gogh, Vincent: 94, 638; in Arles, 594, 595; self-guided walk, 599–601, 603, 607–610; in St-Rémy, 661–663
VAT refunds: 1104
Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Paris): 53
Vegetarians: 1130
Vélib’ Bikes (Paris): 49
Vence: 802–805
Venus de Milo: 83–84
Vercingétorix: 908, 909, 910, 998, 1092
Verdun: 16, 1071–1074; eating, 1074; maps, 1046–1047; planning tips, 1044; sleeping, 1074; tourist information, 1072; transportation, 1044–1045, 1072, 1074
Verdun Battlefields: 1071–1072, 1074–1083; background, 1076–1077; driving tour, 1077–1083; eating, 1075; map, 1075; tours, 1076; transportation, 1076
Verdun Memorial Museum: 1079
Verrerie d’Art de Kaysersberg: 1021
Versailles: 185–205; eating, 205; maps, 190–191, 204; orientation, 189, 192–194; planning tips, 188; self-guided tour, 194–203; sleeping, 204–205; transportation, 187–188
Versailles Château: 56, 185–186, 194–198; map, 196; orientation, 189, 192–194; self-guided tour, 194–198
Versailles Gardens: 186–187, 189, 192–193, 199–201; spectacles in, 192–193; transportation, 200
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin (Reims): 1064
Vézelay: 916–921
Victoire de Samothrace: 84
Victory Monument (Verdun): 1073
Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Cernay): 1010
Vienne River: 429, 430–432; canoeing, 429, 436; cruises, 429
Vierville-sur-Mer: 300, 303–304; sleeping, 307–308
Vieux Bassin (Honfleur): 252, 253–254, 261; eating, 263
Vieux Lyon: 939, 944, 952–957; eating, 966–967; maps, 954, 968–969; nightlife, 964; sleeping, 964–965
Vieux Nice: 713, 720, 725–730; eating, 744–745; maps, 714–715, 742–743; self-guided walk, 725–730; sleeping, 740–741
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (Cap Ferrat): 765–767
Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane): 511–513
Village Détruit de Fleury (Verdun): 1079–1080
Villa Kérylos: 768
Villa La Leopolda (Villefranche-sur-Mer): 762
Villa Masséna (Nice): 722
Villandry: 436, 445–448; eating, 439, 443, 447–448
Villandry Château: 375, 445–447
Ville Basse (Carcassonne): 548, 559, 564–565
Ville-Basse (Vaison-la-Romaine): 672, 678; eating, 681; sleeping, 680
Villedieu: 678–679; eating, 682; sleeping, 680
Villefranche-sur-Mer: 703, 704, 752–762; map, 754–755
Villefranche-sur-Mer Citadel: 758
Villefranche-sur-Mer Harbor: 755–757
Villefranche-sur-Saône: 972
Ville-Haute (Vaison-la-Romaine): 672, 677–678; eating, 681; sleeping, 679
Villeneuve Château (Vence): 803
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: 639
Villers-Bocage: sleeping, 277–278
Vineyards: See Wine and vineyards
Visitor information: 1097–1098. See also specific destinations
Vitrac: 478
Vitteaux: 915
Vosne-Romanée: 905
Vougeot: 905–906
Walking: See Hiking
Watchman’s home (Bayeux): 273
Way of the Cross (Rocamadour): 519, 521, 522, 524
Western Emerald Coast: 363–367
Wilde, Oscar: 122
Wine and vineyards: 1140; Beaujolais, 937, 946, 971–973; Bordeaux, 513–515; Côtes du Rhône, 585, 671, 678, 682–688; Languedoc-Roussillon, 532–533, 544, 552, 560, 575, 576–577; Loire Valley, 377–379, 392–393, 424–425, 432, 434–436; Lyon, 937; Paris, 161; Provence, 592–593; guided tours, 587–588; Riviera, 712; savoring tactics, 1138–1139; vocabulary, 1139. See also Alsatian wines; Burgundy wines; Champagne
Wine Road (Alsace): See Route du Vin
Winged Victory of Samothrace: 84
World War I: 101–102, 546, 930, 974, 1021–1022, 1029, 1052–1053, 1060, 1091; Verdun Battlefields, 1071–1072, 1074–1083; Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Cernay), 1010
World War II: 101–102, 108, 265, 411, 600, 978, 1011, 1024, 1029, 1091; Deportation Memorial (Paris), 70; Holocaust Memorial (Paris), 121; Kaysersberg, 1021–1022, 1024–1025; Museum of the Surrender (Reims), 1053, 1060–1061; Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux), 275; Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon), 944; Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane), 511–513. See also D-Day beaches
Yachts of Antibes: 791
Yves Brayer Museum (Les Baux): 658
Zellenberg: 1028