INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Y
Z      

A

Abbeys: Cluny, 931–933; Fontenay, 911–913; Fontevraud, 448–450; Jumièges, 246–247; Mont St-Michel, 326–331; Notre-Dame de Sénanque, 698–699; St. Georges de Boscherville, 246

Abri du Cap Blanc: 497, 503–504

Absinthe: 541, 609, 792

Acccommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Aiguille du Dru (Alps): 841

Aiguille du Midi Gondola (Alps): 830–832, 833, 836–840; hiking, 846; maps, 831, 837

Airbnb: 25–26, 1110–1111, 1117, 1120; Paris, 149

Airborne Museum (Utah Beach): 311–312

Airlines (airfares): 25, 1167

Airports: Geneva, 812, 827, 864; Lyon, 942–943; Nice, 750–751; Paris, 169–176; Strasbourg, 1032–1033

Aître St. Maclou (Rouen): 243–244

À l’Aise Breizh (Dinan): 345–346

Albert I Park (Nice): 724

Albert Schweitzer Museum (Kaysersberg): 1023–1024

Albi: 533–544; eating, 543–544; helpful hints, 535–536; map, 534; sights/activities, 536–542; sleeping, 543; tourist information, 535; transportation, 535, 544

Alésia MuséoParc (Alise-Ste-Reine): 908–909

Alet: 357, 361

Alise Ste-Reine: 908–909, 913, 915

Allen, Paul: 755

All the Light We Cannot See (Doerr): 354–355, 1175

Almanac: 1085

Aloxe-Corton: 896, 903

Alpilles Mountains: 603, 654

Alpine Museum (Chamonix): 855

Alps (Alpes-Savoie): 16, 806–864; cuisine, 808; geology, 842–843; map, 807; planning tips, 806–808; transportation, 808. See also Annecy; Chamonix

Alsace: 16, 974–1043; cuisine, 977; map, 975; planning tips, 976; transportation, 976. See also specific destinations

Alsatian folk dancing and music: 999, 1040

Alsatian half-timbered houses: 987, 988, 989, 1026, 1029

Alsatian Museum (Strasbourg): 1038

Alsatian wines: 977–978, 1003–1013; about, 1007–1008; Colmar, 982, 999; Eguisheim, 1017–1018; Kaysersberg, 1024; map, 1005; Riquewihr, 1025–1028; Route du Vin, 1003–1013; tours, 1009

Amboise: 370, 379–403; eating, 397–399; helpful hints, 380–381; maps, 382–383, 400–401; self-guided walk, 384–386; sights/activities, 386–393; sleeping, 393–397; tourist information, 380; transportation, 380, 399–403

Amboise City Hall Museum: 385

Amboise Clock Tower: 385

Amboise Royal Castle (Château): 375, 386–387, 389

American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 297–299

American Cemetery and Memorial (Thiaucourt): 1082

American Church (Paris): 131

American Hospital (Paris): 38

Amphithéâtre (Arles): 601–603

Amsterdam: train travel, 182

Angoville-au-Plain Church: 309

Anis candies: 909, 911

Annecy: 809–825; eating, 823–824; helpful hints, 812–813; history of, 813; map, 810–811; nightlife, 824; self-guided walk, 814–815; sights/activities, 814–821; sleeping, 821–823; tourist information, 809; transportation, 809–812, 824–825

Annecy Château Museum: 815

Annecy, Lake: 809, 815–819, 820–821; beaches, 816–817; cruises, 817; map, 818

Annecy Museum: 814, 815

Antibes: 704, 785–799; eating, 798–799; helpful hints, 787, 790; as home base, 703; map, 788–789; self-guided walk, 790–793; sights/activities, 793–796; sleeping, 796–797; tourist information, 786; transportation, 786–787, 799

Antibes History and Archaeology Museum: 793, 794

Antibes Market Hall: 787, 792, 798

Anybody’s Tombstone (Dinan): 345

Aosta, Italy: 857

Apartment rentals: 1110–1111, 1117, 1120; Paris, 149

Aperitifs: 1140–1141

Apps: 28, 1142; messaging, 1143; navigation, 1105, 1158–1159; Paris, 38; sightseeing, 1107; user reviews, 1111

Apt: market, 593

Aquarium, in Monaco: 781–782

Aqueduct (Pont du Gard): 649–653

“Arc de Triomphe” (Orange): 669–670

Arc de Triomphe (Paris): 57, 111, 132

Archaeological museums: Alise Ste-Reine, 908–909; Antibes, 793, 794; Arles, 611–613; Cluny, 933; Colmar, 995; Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, 497, 500–501; Lyon, 950–952; Nice, 733; Paris, 61, 104; Pont du Gard, 651–652; Strasbourg, 1037

Archaeological sites: See Cro-Magnon caves; Roman sites

Argentière: 851–852

Arlaten Folk Museum (Arles): 610

Arles: 585, 593–624; eating, 620–623; helpful hints, 595, 598; maps, 596–597, 614, 618–619; planning tips, 594; self-guided walk, 598–610; sights/activities, 610–617; sleeping, 617–620; tourist information, 594; transportation, 594–595, 598, 623–624

Arles Ancient History Museum: 611–613

Arles Roman Arena: 601–603

Arles Roman Theater: 604

Army Museum (Paris): 56, 101–102

Arpentis Château: 396

Arromanches: 288–294; eating, 293; map, 289; sights, 289–291; sleeping, 292–293

Arromanches 360° Theater: 290

Art: history timeline, 1086–1087; of the Riviera, 711. See also Cro-Magnon caves; Impressionism; and specific artists

Art museums: general tips, 1106–1107. See also specific art museums

Arve River: 833, 835, 852

Atelier de la Soierie (Lyon): 958

Athenaeum (Beaune): 872

Atlantic Wall: 275, 296, 310, 317, 358

ATMs: 1100–1102. See also specific destinations

Attitude, French: 30

Aude River: 559

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 29, 1169

Aure River: 265–266, 274

Autoire: 518

Auvers-sur-Oise: guided tours, 55, 58

Auzou (Rouen): 236–237

Avenue de la République (Beaune): 882–883

Avenue Jean Médecin (Nice): 726

Avignon: 585, 624–649; eating, 641–647; helpful hints, 626–627; maps, 628–629, 642–643; self-guided walk, 630–638; sights/activities, 638–639; sleeping, 639–641; tourist information, 624–625; tours, 627, 630; transportation, 625–626, 647–649

Avignon City Hall: 630

Avignon Festival: 624, 626, 1172

Avignon Market Hall: 627, 636–637, 646–647

Avignon Ramparts: 633

Avignon Synagogue: 636

Avignon Waterwheel: 637

Aÿ: 1066

Azay-le-Rideau: 371–372, 440–443; eating, 442–443; sleeping, 442; tourist information, 440

Azay-le-Rideau Château: 375, 440–442

B

Baeckeoffe: 977

Baie des Anges (Nice): 722–723

Ballooning: 378, 457, 482

Band of Brothers (movie): 287, 308, 309

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 28. See also Money

Barrage Vauban (Strasbourg): 1039

Bartholdi, Frédéric-Auguste: 957–958, 982, 986–987; Museum (Colmar), 989, 997–998

Basilica of Ste. Madeleine (Vézelay): 917–920

Basse Corniche: 762–764

Bastides: 544–547

Bastille Opera (Paris): 131

Bateaux-Mouches (Paris): 52–53

Bateaux Parisiens (Paris): 53

Baths of Constantine (Arles): 611

Batobus (Paris): 53

Battle of Hastings: overview, 272

Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 275

Bayeux: 228, 265–280; eating, 278–279; helpful hints, 267; map, 268–269; sights, 270–275; sleeping, 276–278; tourist information, 266; tours, 267, 270; transportation, 266, 279–280

Bayeux Cathedral: 271–273

Bayeux Tapestry: 270–271

Bay of Angels (Nice): 722–723

Bay of Mont St-Michel: 318, 324

Bayonet Trench (Verdun): 1081

Beaches: Annecy, 816–817; Antibes, 791, 794–795; Cap Ferrat, 767–768; Cap Fréhel, 365–366; Collioure, 570, 573, 575; Dinard, 360; Dunes de Chevrêts, 366–367; Etrétat, 260; Nice, 713, 717, 723–724; Paris, 56, 79; Pont du Gard, 651; St-Malo, 354. See also D-Day beaches

Beaujolais: 937, 971–973; tours, 946

Beaulieu-sur-Mer: 768

Beaune: 867, 870–891, 901; eating, 889–891; helpful hints, 871–872; maps, 876–877, 886–887; shopping, 872; sights/activities, 874–884; sleeping, 884–888; tourist information, 870–871; tours, 872–874, 883; transportation, 871, 891

Beaune Ramparts: 883–884

Beaune region: 892–907; maps, 900, 902; north vineyard loop, 898, 901–904; Route des Grands Crus, 898, 904–907; south vineyard loop, 898, 899–901

Beauvais Airport (Paris): 175–176

Bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes): 1116; Paris, 149. See also specific destinations

“Bedford Boys”: 303

Beer: about, 1140

Belvès: market, 460

Bennwihr: 1011

Bergheim: 1012, 1028–1030

Berthillon (Paris): 165

Beverages: 1137–1141. See also Wine and vineyards

Beynac: 476, 479, 484–487; eating, 487; market, 460, 485; sleeping, 486–487

Beynac Château: 485–486

Bibliothèque Carnegie (Reims): 1053, 1059

Big Red One Museum (Colleville-sur-Mer): 297

Biking (bike rentals): 1167; Tour de France, 1172; Alsace, 982–983, 1009, 1012, 1014, 1020, 1024; Amboise, 381, 392; Annecy, 812–813, 818–819; Antibes, 790; Arles, 595; Avignon, 626, 627; Bayeux, 267; Beaune, 873–874, 891–892; Blois, 412, 415; Burgundy, 873–874, 883, 891–892, 898, 899, 901, 903–904; Carcassonne, 549; Chambord, 419–420; Chamonix, 832; Chinon, 429, 436; Dinan, 344; Dordogne, 455; Eguisheim, 1014; Giverny, 218; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 690–691; Kaysersberg, 1020, 1024; Loire Valley, 376–377, 392, 412, 415, 419–420, 429, 436; Luberon, 690–691; Lyon, 945; Nice, 717, 719; Normandy, 282; Paris, 48–49; tours, 55; Pontorson, 334; Provence, 587, 595, 627, 660, 678–679; Rance River Valley, 349–350; Reims, 1049; Ribeauvillé, 1012; St-Emilion, 514; St-Malo, 358; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 587, 660; Sarlat, 462, 464; Strasbourg, 1034; Vaison-la-Romaine, 673, 678–679; Versailles, 200; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 753

Black Virgins: 522, 523–524

Bléré: sleeping, 397

Blois: 370, 409–418; map, 410–411

Blois Royal Castle (Château): 374, 412–414

Blues clubs, in Paris: 130

Boat cruises: Annecy, 817; Avignon, 627; Beynac, 486; Carcassonne, 559; Chinon, 429; Colmar, 983; Dinan, 350; Dinard, 360; Honfleur, 260; La Roque-Gageac, 482; Lyon, 946; Nice, 719–720, 749, 751; Paris, 52–53, 132; Riviera, 710, 719–720, 749, 751, 762, 785; Strasbourg, 1040; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 759

Boating: hotel barges, overview, 1120; Annecy, 813, 817; Antibes, 790; Chenonceaux, 404; Lyon, 944; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 759. See also Canoeing

Bocuse, Paul: 937, 970, 1093; Les Halles, 943, 962, 970

Bonaparte Bridge (Lyon): 942, 947–948, 961

Bonaparte, Napoleon: See Napoleon Bonaparte

Bon Marché (Paris): 129

Bonnieux: 700

Books, recommended: 1173–1176

Bordeaux: 513–515

Boudin, Eugène: 249, 254; biographical sketch, 257; Museum (Honfleur), 256–258

Boules: 135, 360, 481, 617, 753, 800; about, 589

Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 960

Boulevard Malesherbes (Paris): 128

Bourges: 923–928; map, 924

Bourges Cathedral: 925–926

Bourges Medieval Quarter: 923, 926–927

Bouzy: 1066

Braille, Louis: 108

Brancion: 928–929

Brasserie Bofinger (Paris): 161–162

Brayer (Yves) Museum (Les Baux): 658

Breakfast: overview, 1122–1123

British Military Cemetery (Bayeux): 275

Brittany: 15, 337–368; cuisine, 340; map, 338; planning tips, 338; transportation, 339–340. See also specific destinations

Bruniquel: 545

Brussels: train travel, 182

Budgeting (budget tips): 25–26. See also Money-saving tips

Bullgames, in Arles: 616

Burgundy: 16, 865–935; at a glance, 867; cuisine, 868; maps, 866, 914; planning tips, 866–867; transportation, 867, 891–892. See also specific destinations

Burgundy Canal: 907

Burgundy wines: 867, 868–869, 882–883, 892–907; Beaune, 872, 882–883, 884, 888; maps, 900, 902; museums, in Beaune, 880, 881; savoring tactics, 1138–1139; shipping home, 882–883; tours, 872–874, 883; transportation, 891–892

Buses (bus travel): 1154–1155; best three-week trip, 22–23; Paris, 43–47, 138, 144, 183–184; airports, 171–172, 176; scenic routes, 44–45, 46; tours, 49–52, 133. See also specific destinations

Business hours: 1099

Butterfly Exhibit (Hunawihr): 1012

C

Cabs: See Taxis

Caen: 314–317

Caen Memorial Museum: 314–317

Café de la Mairie (Paris): 129

Café de la Paix (Paris): 117

Café la Nuit (Arles): 609–610

Cafés (brasseries): 1129–1130; tipping, 1103–1104, 1128–1129. See also specific destinations

Cahors: 528–529; market, 460

Calvados: 229, 253, 267, 300, 304

Calvet Museum (Avignon): 638

Camargue Museum: 615

Camargue, the: 613–615; map, 614

Camembert cheese: 229, 230

Campervan rentals: 1158

Camping (campgrounds): overview, 1121

Canadian Cemetery (Juno Beach): 314

Canadian D-Day sites: 312–314

Canal de Bourgogne: 907

Canal du Midi (Carcassonne): 559

Canauxrama (Paris): 53

Cancale: 367

Candes-St-Martin: 436

Cannes Film Festival: 705, 736, 1172

Canoeing: Chinon, 429, 436; Dinan, 344; Dordogne River, 455–456, 476–479; Loire River, 392, 429, 436; Pont du Gard, 651

Cap d’Antibes: 790, 793, 795–796

Cap Ferrat: 764–769; cruises, 719–720, 759; map, 766

Cap Fréhel: 365–366

Carcassonne: 547–565; eating, 563–565; helpful hints, 549, 552; maps, 550–551, 554, 566; nightlife, 559–560; self-guided walk, 552–557; sights/activities, 558–559; sleeping, 560–563; tourist information, 548; transportation, 548–549, 565

Carcassonne Walls: 553, 555–556, 558

Carennac: 516

Car insurance: 1157–1158

Car leasing: 1158

Carnavalet Museum (Paris): 119

Carnegie Library (Reims): 1053, 1059

Carnival (Nice): 705, 736

Car rentals: 25, 1156–1157; Paris, 173–174. See also specific destinations

Carrières de Lumières (Les Baux): 659

Car travel (driving): 1159–1166; best three-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 1160; driving tips, 1164–1166; navigation options, 1158–1159; Paris, 184; road signs, 1162–1163, 1164. See also specific destinations

Casinos: Chamonix, 835; Monte Carlo, 782–783; Nice, 723

Castelnau-Bretenoux Château: 516, 518

Castelnaud: 476, 478–479, 483–484; sleeping, 484

Castelnaud Château: 483–484

Castelnau-de-Montmiral: 547

Castle Hill (Nice): 717, 720, 725, 735

Castles: See Châteaux

Catacombs of Paris: 109–110

Cathars: overview, 538

Cathédrale de Monaco: 781

Cathédrale Notre-Dame: See Notre-Dame Cathedral

Cathédrale Russe (Nice): 720, 734

Caunes-Minervois: sleeping, 562–563

Caussade: 545

Cavaillon: market, 593

Cavaillon melons: 592

Cave art: See Cro-Magnon caves

Caveau de Puligny-Montrachet: 894, 899

Caveau des Vignerons (Amboise): 392

Caveau des Vignerons (Morey-St-Denis): 906

Caves Painctes (Chinon): 435

Caves Plouzeau (Chinon): 435

Caves Voltaire (Chinon): 434

Cell (mobile) phones: 1141–1143. See also Apps

Cénac: 479; market, 460

Centre de Réintroduction (Hunawihr): 1012

Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Lyon): 962–963

Centre International du Vitrail (Chartres): 214

Centre Pompidou (Paris): 57, 121–122; sleeping near, 146–147

Ceramics, Museum of (Rouen): 245

Céret: 577

Cernay: 1010

Cézanne, Paul: 94, 112, 638, 959

Chagall, Marc: 573, 577, 711, 1057; gravesite, in St-Paul-de-Vence, 801; Museum (Nice), 720, 730–732

Chagny: 895–896, 901

Chalet de la Floria (Alps): 852

Chambolle-Musigny: 906

Chambord Château: 374, 418–422

Chamonix: 825–864; at a glance, 833, 845; eating, 861–863; helpful hints, 827, 830; hiking, 844–853; history of, 827; maps, 828–829, 831, 837, 848–849; planning tips, 825; self-guided walk, 833–836; sights/activities, 833–856; sleeping, 857–860; tourist information, 826; transportation, 826–827, 830–832, 863–864

Chamonix City Hall: 834

Chamonix Protestant Church: 836

Champagne: 1044, 1061–1069, 1140; about, 1065

Champagne G. Tribaut (Hautvillers): 1068

Champagne Herbert Beaufort (Bouzy): 1066

Champagne region: 1044–1071; cuisine, 1045; maps, 1046–1047, 1067; planning tips, 1044; tours, 1061; transportation, 1044–1045

Champ de Mars (Paris): 100, 138

Champlain, Samuel de: 249

Champs-Elysées (Paris): 35, 56, 110–111, 132; map, 112–113

Changing of the Guard (Monaco): 780

Chapaize: 930

Chapelle Cocteau (Villefranche): 757

Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence): 803–804

Chapelle et Phare de la Garoupe (Antibes): 795

Chapel of Penitents (Les Baux): 658

Chapel of St. Leo IX (Eguisheim): 1015–1016

Chapel of St. Pierre (Villefranche): 757

Chapel of the Rosary (Vence): 803–804

Charlemagne: 240, 530, 547, 553, 1058, 1084, 1092

Charles de Cazanove (Reims): 1062

Charles de Gaulle Airport (Paris): 169–174, 176; map, 170; sleeping, 149

Chartres: 205–215; eating, 215; map, 208–209; sight, 206–214; sleeping, 214–215; tourist information, 206

Chartres Cathedral: 205, 207–213; map, 211

Chassagne-Montrachet: 899

Châteauneuf-en-Auxois: 907–908, 915

Châteaux (castles): architecture, 1089; history, 390–391; Amboise, 375, 386–387, 389; Annecy, 815, 822–823; Arpentis, 396; Azay-le-Rideau, 375, 440–442; Beynac, 485–486; Blois, 374, 412–414; Castelnau-Bretenoux, 516, 518; Castelnaud, 483–484; Chambord, 374, 418–422; Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, 907–908; Chaumont-sur-Loire, 374, 425–428; Chenonceau, 374, 403–408; Cheverny, 374, 422–425; Chinon, 433–434; Clos de Vougeot, 905; Clos-Lucé (Amboise), 375, 387–389; Collioure, 573; Commarque, 504–505; Comtal (Carcassonne), 557, 558–559; Eza, 771; Fayrac, 478–479; Grimaldi (Antibes), 792; Guédelon, 921–922; Hautes Corbières, 565–567; Haut-Kœnigsbourg, 1012–1013; Husseren Les Cinq, 1018; La Fleunie, 508; Langeais, 375, 443–445; La Rochepot, 895, 899–900; Lastours, 568–569; Montfort, 475; Nazelles, 397; Perreux, 396; Peyrepertuse, 567–568; Pray, 396, 399; Quéribus, 568; Rivau, 437; Rocamadour, 521; Savigny, 904; Ussé, 437; Villandry, 375, 445–447; Villeneuve (Vence), 803. See also Versailles Château

Chaumont-sur-Loire Château: 374, 425–428

Cheeses: 161, 229, 230, 360, 377, 459, 592, 808, 868, 937, 1045, 1135–1136

Chemin de la Croix (Rocamadour): 519, 521, 522, 524

Chemin des Fontaines (St-Cirq Lapopie): 678

Chemin du Fauvisme (Collioure): 574

Chemins de Fer de Provence: 735

Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 881

Chénas: 972

Chenonceau Château: 374, 403–408

Chenonceaux: 371, 403–409

Cher River: 376, 403; canoeing, 392

Cheverny Château: 374, 422–425

Child, Julia: 236, 248

Children, travel tips: 1118–1119

Chinon: 370, 429–440; eating, 438–439; helpful hints, 429; maps, 430–431, 442–443; nightlife, 436; self-guided walk, 429–433; sights/activities, 433–437; sleeping, 437–438; tourist information, 429; transportation, 439–440

Chinon Château: 433–434

Chinon Town Museum: 433

Chiroubles: 972

Chisseaux: eating, 409

Chocolat (Harris): 1175

Chocolat (movie): 482, 909, 911

Chocolate: 128, 236, 385, 607, 727, 911, 1136

Christmas markets: 1173; Annecy, 809; Strasbourg, 1040

Churches (eglises): architecture, 1088. See also specific churches

Church of the Holy Cross (Kaysersberg): 1022

Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes): 792

Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Paris): 57, 122–123

Citadelle Souterraine (Verdun): 1073–1074

Classical theaters: See Théâtre Antique

Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 29, 1169

Climate: 19, 22, 1179

Clos de Vougeot Château: 905

Clos-Lucé Château (Amboise): 375, 387–389

Clothing sizes: 1179

Cluny: 931–934

Cluny Abbey: 865, 931–933

Cluny Museum (Paris): 57, 73, 104

Cluny Museum of Art and Archaeology: 933

Cocteau (Jean) Chapel (Villefranche): 757

Coffee: 1137–1140

Col de Balme: 853

Col de Banyuls: 577

Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass: 686–687

Col de la Forclaz: 821

Collection Lambert (Avignon): 638–639

Collégiale Notre-Dame (Beaune): 880

Colleville-sur-Mer: 297

Colline du Château (Nice): 717, 720, 725, 735

Collioure: 570–582; eating, 580–582; helpful hints, 572; map, 578–579; nightlife, 575; sights/activities, 572–577; sleeping, 577–580; tourist information, 571; transportation, 571–572, 582

Collioure Royal Castle (Château): 573

Colmar: 978–1003; eating, 1001–1003; helpful hints, 982–983; maps, 980–981, 985; nightlife, 999; self-guided walk, 984–991; sights/activities, 991–998; sleeping, 999–1001; tourist information, 979; tours, 983; transportation, 979, 982, 1003

Colmar Dominican Church: 990, 996

“Colmar Pocket” Museum (Turckheim): 1011

Commarque Château: 504–505

Comtal Château (Carcassonne): 557, 558–559

Conciergerie (Paris): 77–78

Concoeur: 905

Condat-sur-Vézère: sleeping, 508

Confit de canard: 377, 457–458, 459, 1134

Confluence (Lyon): 961

Connery, Sean: 719

Conservatoire de Dentelles (Bayeux): 274

Consulates: 1098–1099

Cooking classes: Carcassonne, 552; Nice, 720–721; Paris, 160–161; Sarlat, 464

Cordes-sur-Ciel: 545

Côte d’Azur: See Riviera; and specific destinations

Côte de Grâce (Honfleur): 259

Côte d’Emeraude: 363–367

Côtes du Rhône: 671–688

Côtes du Rhône Wine Road: 585, 682–688; guided tours, 587–588; map, 683

Cougnac Cave: 496, 510–511

Courbet, Gustave: 91

Courses camarguaises, in Arles: 616

Courseulles-sur-Mer: 313–314

Cours Jean Jaurès (Avignon): 624

Cours Saleya (Nice): 724, 727–728, 744

Cousteau Aquarium (Monaco): 781–782

COVID-19 pandemic: 3, 67, 1096

Crayon (Lyon): 950

Créancey: 915

Credit cards: 28, 1100–1103

Crêpes: about, 1126–1127

Crépon: sleeping, 292–293

Crestet: 678, 686

Crockpots (baeckeoffe), about: 977

Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 939, 947, 960–961

Cro-Magnon caves: 453, 490–511, 1092; at a glance, 496–497; guided tours, 456–457, 499; helpful hints, 498–499; map, 492–493; overview, 490–491, 494–497; planning tips, 498; reservations, 498–499

Crown of Thorns: 68, 73, 75, 76

Cruise ships, on the Riviera: 751, 762, 785. See also Boat cruises

Cryptoporticos (Arles): 605

Cryptoportique (Reims): 1059–1060

Crystal Museum (Chamonix): 856

Cuisine: 7–8, 1132–1136; Alsace, 977; Brittany, 340; Burgundy, 868; Champagne region, 1045; Dordogne, 457–460; Languedoc-Roussillon, 532–533; Loire Valley, 377; Lyon, 937, 966; Normandy, 229, 230, 334; picnics, 1123–1127; Provence, 591–592; Reims, 1045; Riviera, 712; Savoie, 808; to-go foods, 1125–1127

Curie, Marie: 108

Currency and exchange: 1100–1103

Customs House (Colmar): 984–985

Customs regulations: 1104–1105

Cycling: See Biking

D

Daladier Bridge (Avignon): 627

Dalí (Salvador) Theater-Museum (Figueres): 577

Daumier, Honoré: 91

David, Jacques-Louis: 86, 638

Da Vinci Code: 918

Da Vinci, Leonardo: 85–86, 379, 385, 387–389, 391; Mona Lisa, 85–86

D-Day beaches (Normandy): 228, 280–314; American sites, 294–312; Canadian sites, 312–314; helpful hints, 287; history timeline, 284–285; map, 282–283; planning tips, 280–281; tours, 229, 283–287; from Paris, 58, 281; transportation, 281–287

D-Day Experience (Utah Beach): 312

D-Day Landing Museum (Arromanches): 291

Dead Man’s Corner (Utah Beach): 312

Debit cards: 28, 1100–1103

Degas, Edgar: 92–93, 104, 112, 245, 638

De Gaulle Airport (Paris): See Charles de Gaulle Airport

De Gaulle, Charles: 57, 102, 111, 274, 275, 314, 317, 1093

Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 92

Delacroix, Eugène: 87, 105, 245, 275

Dentelles de Montmirail: 686–687

Department stores, in Paris: 127, 129

Deportation Memorial (Paris): 70

Dietary restrictions: 1130

Digne: 735

Dinan: 340–354; eating, 352–353; helpful hints, 343–344; map, 342–343; nightlife, 353; self-guided walk, 344–348; sights/activities, 348–351; sleeping, 351–352; tourist information, 341; transportation, 341–343, 354

Dinan Clock Tower: 345

Dinan Old Port: 348–349, 350, 353

Dinan Ramparts: 347

Dinard: 360–361

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Discounts: See Money-saving tips

Disneyland Paris: 222–224

Dizy: 1066

Doerr, Anthony: 354–355, 1175

Dolder Museum (Riquewihr): 1027

Domaine Comte Senard (Aloxe-Corton): 896, 903

Domaine de Balme (Alps): 853, 855

Domaine de Coyeux Winery: 687

Domaine de la Chevalerie (Chinon): 435–436

Domaine de la Giraudière (Villandry): 439, 443, 447–448

Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 187, 188, 201–203; map, 202

Domaine de Mourchon Winery: 685

Domaine Ernest Burn (Gueberschwihr): 1010

Domaine Lejeune (Pommard): 893

Domaine Naudin-Ferrand (Magny-les-Villers): 897, 904

Domaines d’Aloxe-Corton: 896, 903

Dominican Church (Colmar): 990, 996

Domme: 475, 476, 480–481; market, 460, 480

Dordogne: 15, 452–529; at a glance, 453; cuisine, 457–460; home base, 454; maps, 456, 517; markets, 460; planning tips, 452–454; tours, 456–457; transportation, 455–456. See also specific destinations

Dordogne River: 452, 474; canoeing, 455–456, 476–479; cruises, 482, 486; map, 476–477

Dordogne River Valley: 453, 474–490

Douaumont Ossuary (Verdun): 1080–1081

Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations

Ducal Palace (Nice): 728

Duclair: 246

Duingt: 819–820

Dumas, Alexandre: 108

Dunes de Chevrêts: 366–367

E

Eastern Dordogne: 453, 515–526; map, 517

Eating: 1121–1136; budget tips, 26; with children, 1118–1119; ordering tips, 1131–1132; restaurant phrases, 1188; restaurant pricing, 1122; tipping, 1103–1104, 1128–1129. See also Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations

Economy: 1085, 1091, 1094–1096

Eglise de Carsac: 475

Eglise des Dominicains (Colmar): 990, 996

Eglise Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 235–236

Eglise St-Jacques (Nice): 729

Eglise St-Pierre (Mont St-Michel): 325–326

Eglise Ste. Catherine (Honfleur): 255–256

Eglise St. Salvi et Cloître (Albi): 542

Egouts de Paris: 100–101

Eguisheim: 1010, 1013–1019; map, 1016–1017

Eguisheim Castle: 1015

Eiffel Tower (Paris): 56, 96–100, 132; reservations, 27, 97–98

Eiffel Tower neighborhood (Paris): 35, 96–104; eating, 151, 154; map, 97

Eleanor of Aquitaine: 433–434, 449, 925, 1090, 1092

Electricity: 1099

Elevage du Bouyssou (Sarlat): 487–490

Embassies: 1098–1099

Emerald Coast: 363–367

Emergencies: 1098; Paris, 37–38

Englesqueville la Percée: 304

Entrevaux: 735

Environmental footprint (going green): 1100

Epernay: 1068–1069

Espace Alpinisme (Chamonix): 856

Espace Tairraz (Chamonix): 856

Espace Van Gogh Easel (Arles): 607

Etang de Vaccarès: 615

Etape Gourmande (Villandry): 439, 443, 447–448

ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization: System), 27, 1098

Etrétat: 260

Euro currency: 1101–1102

Eurostar: 182–183, 1146, 1152

Exchange rate: 1101

Eza Château: 771

Eze-Bord-de-Mer: 769, 770, 772

Eze Church: 771

Eze-le-Village: 769–772

F

Faience: 242–243, 245

Fat Tire Tours (Paris): 49, 54, 55, 60

Fauchon (Paris): 128

Fayencerie Augy (Rouen): 242–243

Fayrac Château: 478–479

Fenocchio (Nice): 729, 745

Festivals: 1171–1173. See also specific festivals

Figueres: 577

Films, recommended: 1176–1178

Flag, French: 1085

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain: 909–911, 915

Fleurie: 972

Fleury: 1079–1080

Flower markets: Nice, 727–728; Paris, 77

Foie gras: 457, 459, 461, 467, 474, 475, 487–490, 977, 1029, 1045; about, 488–489, 1133

Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence): 801–802

Fondation Van Gogh (Arles): 608

Font-de-Gaume Cave: 496, 502–503

Fontenay Abbey (Burgundy): 911–913

Fontevraud Royal Abbey: 448–450

Fontvieille: sleeping, 620

Fontvieille (Monaco): 773, 781

Food: See Cheeses; Chocolate; Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Foie gras; Markets; Olive oil; Truffles

Food allergies: 1130

Food tours: Avignon, 627; Nice, 720–721; Paris, 160

Fort Carré (Antibes): 790, 794

Fort de Douaumont (Verdun): 1082

Fort du Petit Bé (St-Malo): 358

Forteresse Royale de Chinon: 433–434

Fort la Latte: 364–365

Fort St. Elme (Collioure): 576

Forum Square (Arles): See Place du Forum

Fougères: 367–368

Fourvière Hill (Lyon): 939, 948–952

Fragonard Perfume Factory (Eze): 772

Frank Gehry Tower (Arles): 613

French Alps: See Alps

French attitude: 30

French language: See Language

French Riviera: See Riviera

French Riviera Pass: 704–705

Fuissé: 972

G

Gadagne Museums (Lyon): 956–957

Galamus Gorges: 566–567

Galerie Mario Colonel (Chamonix): 856

Galeries Lafayette (Paris): 117, 129, 131

Gare d’Austerlitz (Paris): 181

Gare de Bercy (Paris): 181

Gare de l’Est (Paris): 180

Gare de Lyon (Paris): 169, 179–180

Gare du Nord (Paris): 178

Gare Montparnasse (Paris): 178–179

Gare St. Lazare (Paris): 180–181

Garnier Opera (Paris): 57, 115–117, 131–132

Gauguin, Paul: 94–95, 104, 609, 959

Gauls: 670, 865, 908–909, 915, 938, 950–952, 1084; about, 910

Gay nightlife, in Paris: 141

Gehry (Frank) Tower (Arles): 613

Génépi: 830

Geneva Airport: 812, 827, 864

Gérard Sion Galerie (Carcassonne): 559

Géricault, Théodore: 87, 245, 275, 638

German Military Cemeteries (Normandy): 306–307, 331

German Military Cemetery (Bergheim): 1030

Gevrey-Chambertin: 906–907

Gigondas: 688

Gîtes: 1115

Giverny: 216–221; eating, 221; guided tours, 55, 58; map, 217; sleeping, 221

Glaciorium (Alps): 841–842

Glanum (St-Rémy): 663

“Golden Beach” (Omaha Beach): 303

Gondolas, in Chamonix: 830–832, 833, 836–840, 842–844; maps, 831, 837

Gordes: 698

Gorges de Galamus: 566–567

Gouffre de Padirac: 524–525

Government: 1085, 1091, 1094–1096

Governor’s Tower (Dinan): 347

Gramat: 518

Grand Balcon Nord (Alps): 846–847

Grand Balcon Sud (Alps): 833, 847

Grande Allée des Promenades (Reims): 1052

Grande Corniche: 762–764

Grand Prix of Monaco: 705, 736, 773, 778, 780, 1172

Grand Rue (Bergheim): 1029

Grand Rue (Colmar): 988–989

Grand Rue (Eguisheim): 1014–1015

Grand Rue (Mont St-Michel): 318, 324–325

Grand Rue (Ribeauvillé): 1012

Grand Rue (Strasbourg): 1035

Grimaldi Château (Antibes): 792

Gros Horloge (Rouen): 238–239

Grotte de Font-de-Gaume: 496, 502–503

Grotte de Rouffignac: 496, 508–510

Grotte du Pech Merle: 497, 528

Grotte Préhistorique des Merveilles: 521

Grottes de Cougnac: 497, 510–511

Grünewald, Matthias, Isenheim Altarpiece: 992–995

Gueberschwihr: 1010

Guédelon Château: 921–922

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1168–1169; updates, 31, 1168

Guy de Chassey (Louvois): 1066

H

Half-timbered houses of Alsace: 987, 988, 989, 1026, 1029

Halles Boulingrin (Reims): 1060

Hamlet (Versailles): 202–203

Hanggliding: 852, 853, 856

Hartmannswillerkopf (Cernay): 1010

Haussmann, Baron Georges-Eugène: 116

Hautes Corbières Château: 565–567

Haut-Kœnigsbourg Château: 1012–1013

Hautvillers: 1067–1068

Hédiard (Paris): 128

Helbronner: 831, 836–840

Henri de Villamont (Savigny): 897, 904

Hermès (Paris): 129

Heurtault Tower (Amboise): 387

High Corniche: 762–764

Hiking (walking): Albi, 542; Alet, 361; Alsace, 1009–1010; Annecy, 819–820; Antibes, 795–796; Avignon, 633; Bayeux, 274; Beaune, 882–884; Beynac, 486; Bourges, 926–927; Burgundy, 882–884; Cap Ferrat, 768–769; Cap Fréhel, 365–366; Carcassonne, 558–559; Chamonix, 844–853; map, 848–849; Chartres, 213–214; Collioure, 573, 574, 575–577; Dinan, 348–349; Duingt, 819–820; Eguisheim, 1014–1016; Etrétat, 260; Eze, 770–771; Fort la Latte, 364–365; Giverny, 218; Honfleur, 259; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 692; Kaysersberg, 1024; Lastours, 568–569; Mont St-Michel, 324–326; Omaha Beach, 301; Pont du Gard, 651, 652–653; Rance River Valley, 349–351; Ribeauvillé, 1012; Riquewihr, 1024, 1028; Roussillon, 695; St-Malo, 360; Vaison-la-Romaine, 678; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 758–759

Hill towns of the Luberon: 689–701; map, 690–691

Historial Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 242

History: 1084–1091; timeline, 1086–1087

Holidays: 1171–1173

Holocaust Memorial (Paris): 121

Honfleur: 228, 249–265; eating, 263–264; helpful hints, 253; map, 250–251; nightlife, 261; sights/activities, 253–260; sleeping, 261–263; tourist information, 252; transportation, 252, 264–265

Honfleur Jetty/Park: 260

Horse and Bird of Prey Show (Chambord): 420

Horse-drawn carriage rides: 322, 552, 983

Horses, National Stud Farm (Cluny): 933

Hospices de Beaune: 874–875, 878–880

Hospitals: 1098; Paris, 37–38

Hostels (auberge de jeunesse): overview, 1120. See also specific destinations

Hot-air ballooning: 378, 457, 482

Hotels: booking sites, 1110; glossary of terms, 1112; modern chains, 1115; overview, 1109–1115; rates and deals, 1108–1109; reservations, 1114–1115. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations

Hotel barges, overview: 1120

Hôtel de la Cité (Carcassonne): 556–557, 560

Hôtel Dieu des Hospices de Beaune: 874–875, 878–880

Hôtel l’Aiguille du Midi (Alps): 859–860

Hôtel La Mirande (Avignon): 635

Hôtel Negresco (Nice): 721–722, 736, 739

Houdini, Harry (Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin): 414–415

House of Etienne de la Boëtie (Sarlat): 465

“House of Heads” (Colmar): 991

House of Magic (Blois): 414–415

Hugo, Victor: 101, 108, 157, 330, 391, 1177; House (Paris), 119

Huisnes-sur-Mer: 331

Hunawihr: 1011–1012

Hundred Years’ War: 238, 1090

Hurepel de Minerve: 570

Husseren Les Cinq Château: 1018

I

Ile Besnard: 366–367

Ile de la Cité (Paris): 35, 61–69; map, 62–63

Ile St. Louis (Paris): 57, 69–71, 132; eating, 164–166; map, 62–63; sleeping, 148–149

Ill River: 1038, 1039; cruises, 1040

Illuminated Lyon: 942, 943, 964

Impressionism: 92–93, 95–96, 103–104, 112–113, 216, 218–220, 249, 254

Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 86–87, 90, 245

Institute of Oceanography (Villefranche): 758

International Center for Cave Art (Lascaux): 496, 506–508

International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 214

Internet security: 1144

Isenheim Altarpiece (Grünewald): 992–995

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 691–694

Italy: 836–840, 857; train travel, 183

J

Janmot, Louis: 959

Jardin Anglais (Dinan): 344

Jardin Botanique (Monaco): 781

Jardin de la Paix (Cape Ferrat): 769

Jardin des Papillons (Hunawihr): 1012

Jardin d’Eté (Arles): 603

Jardin d’Eze: 771

Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris): 105

Jardin du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 632

Jardin Exotique (Monaco): 782

Jazz clubs, in Paris: 130

Jewish Art and History Museum (Paris): 120–121

Jewish Ghetto (Nice): 729

Jewish Quarter (Paris): 118, 141, 144; eating, 163

Joan of Arc: 68, 230, 235–236, 238, 240–241, 246, 325–326, 390, 428, 433, 434, 482, 927, 949, 1054, 1055, 1057, 1090, 1092; biographical sketch, 237; Museum (Rouen), 242

Joan of Arc Church (Rouen): 235–236

Joan of Arc Tower (Rouen): 246

John, Elton: 719

Joucas: 695; sleeping, 697

Juliénas: 972

Julien Bridge: 700–701

Jumièges Abbey: 246–247

Juno Beach: 313–314; map, 282–283

Juno Beach Centre (Courseulles): 313–314

K

Kayaking: See Canoeing

Kaysersberg: 1011, 1020–1025

Kaysersberg History Museum: 1022

Keratry Mansion (Dinan): 345

Kids, travel tips: 1118–1119

Kientzheim: 1024

Koïfhus (Colmar): 984–985

L

La Basoche (Lyon): 955

La Belle Iloise (Dinan): 346, 347

La Cambe: 306–307

La Capelière: 615

Lac Blanc (Alps): 833, 850

Lace Conservatory (Bayeux): 274

La Cité (Carcassonne): 548, 552–557; eating, 563–564; map, 554; sleeping, 560–561

La Cité Médiévale (Rocamadour): 519, 524, 525

La Cité Religieuse (Rocamadour): 519, 521–524

La Cohue (Dinan): 346–347

La Condamine (Monaco): 774

La Confluence (Lyon): 961

Lacoste: 700

La Craquanterie (Dinan): 345

La Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 939, 947, 960–961

La Défense (Paris): 113–114

La Digue de la Mer: 615

Ladurée (Paris): 128

Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 57, 104

La Ferme de la Sapinière (Omaha Beach): 300

La Flégère Lift (Alps): 833, 842–843, 844, 847, 855

La Fleunie Château: 508

La Fontaine Roesselmann (Colmar): 987

La Grande Arche (Paris): 113–114

La Maison des Artistes (Chamonix): 835, 863

La Maison des Climats (Beaune): 871, 880

La Maison des Truffe (Paris): 128

La Marmite de l’Abbaye: 349

Langeais Château: 375, 443–445

Langrolay: sleeping, 352

Language: barrier and French attitude, 30; coffee and tea lingo, 1139–1140; hotel lingo, 1112; online translation tip, 1100; Paris Métro, 41; picnic terms, 1124; pronunciation guide, 1182–1186; restaurant phrases, 1188; road signs, 1162–1163; survival phrases, 1187; train terms, 1146; wine lingo, 1139

Languedoc-Roussillon: 15, 530–582; cuisine, 532–533; map, 531; planning tips, 531–532; transportation, 532. See also specific destinations

Lantern of the Dead (Sarlat): 465–466

La Petite France (Strasbourg): 1039, 1040, 1042

La Rochepot Château: 895, 899–900

La Roque-Gageac: 476, 478, 481–483

La Roque St-Christophe: 497, 505–506

La Roquette (Arles): 610–611; eating, 622–623

La Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 246–247

La Route Napoléon: 705

La Salle, René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de: 239

Lascaux: 496, 506–508

Lastours Châteaux: 568–569

L’Atelier (Arles): 621

Latin Quarter (Paris): 72–73

La Tour de Faure: 528

La Tour Eiffel (Paris): 56, 96–100, 132; reservations, 27, 97–98

La Tour Métallique (Lyon): 947

La Turbie: 772–773

La Villasse Ruins (Vaison): 675–676

Lebrec Calvados (Omaha Beach): 304

Le Brévent Gondola (Alps): 830–832, 833, 843–844, 855

Le Bugue: market, 460

Le Caveau des Musignys: 906

Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 92

Left Bank (Paris): 36, 104–110; eating, 166–168; guided tours, 53–54; maps, 106–107, 167

Le Hameau Dubœuf (Romanèche-Thorins): 972

Léhon: 349, 353

Le Mans Auto Race: 1172

Le Mémorial de Caen: 314–317

Le Mistral: 592

Le Mulet (Chamonix): 832

Le Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 638

Leonardo da Vinci Park (Amboise): 387–389

Le Saut aux Loups: 450–451

Les Baux: 585, 654–660; map, 656

Les Baux Castle Ruins: 654, 655, 657

Les Bossons: sleeping, 859–860

Les Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 881

Les Egouts de Paris: 100–101

Le Semnoz: 815, 821

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac: 497, 499–511; caves near, 502–511; eating, 501; market, 460; sleeping, 501

Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (Versailles): 193

Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes (Versailles): 132, 193

Les Grands Montets: 855

Les Halles (Avignon): 636–637, 646–647

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: 943, 962, 970

Les Haras Nationaux (Cluny): 933

Les Houches: 850–851; skiing, 855

Les Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 943, 950, 1172

Les Praz: 843, 844, 847, 852

Les Rochers Sculptés (Rothéneuf): 366

Le Trophée des Alpes: 772–773

L’Hospitalet (Rocamadour): 519, 520–521, 525–526

Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix): 87

Liberty Tree (Bayeux): 273

Lido (Paris): 110–111

Ligré: sleeping, 438

Limeray: sleeping, 397

L’Index Lift (Alps): 844, 851

L’Officiel des Spectacles: 36, 130

Loire River: 369; biking along, 376–377, 392, 412, 415, 419–420; canoeing, 392, 429

Loire Valley: 15, 369–451; châteaux at a glance, 374–375; châteaux history, 390–391; cuisine, 377; home base, 370–372; map, 370–371; planning tips, 372–373; tours, 377; from Paris, 58; transportation, 373–377; wines, 377–379, 392–393, 424–425, 432, 434–436. See also specific destinations

London: train travel, 182–183

Longest Day, The (movie): 287, 308, 311, 1177

Longues-sur-Mer Gun Battery: 294–296

L’Orangerie (Paris): 56, 95–96

L’Ossuaire de Douaumont (Verdun): 1080–1081

Lot River Valley: 453, 526–529

Loubressac: 518

Louis Vuitton (Paris): 111

Louis XIV (Sun King): 198–199, 1092; Versailles, 194–201

Lourmarin: market, 593

Louvois: 1066

Louvre Museum (Paris): 56, 79–88; map, 82

Low Corniche: 762–764

Lower Town (Les Baux): 657–659

Luberon hill towns: 689–701; map, 690–691

Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Museum (Lyon): 944, 950–952

Luges: 821, 853

LUMA Arles: 613

Lumière Museum (Lyon): 944, 963

Luncheon on the Grass (Manet): 92

Luxembourg Garden (Paris): 105

Lyon: 16, 936–971; at a glance, 944; arrival in, 939, 942–943; cuisine, 937; eating, 966–970; helpful hints, 943–944; maps, 940–941, 954, 968–969; nightlife, 964; orientation, 938–939; planning tips, 936–937; shopping, 959–960; sights/activities, 947–963; sleeping, 964–965; tourist information, 939; tours, 945–946; transportation, 939, 942–943, 944–945, 971

Lyon Airport: 942–943

Lyon City Card: 939

Lyon History Museum: 956–957

Lyon Museum of Fine Arts: 944, 958–959

Lyon Opera House: 950

Lyon traboules: 944, 955, 956

M

Madeloc Tower: 576–577

Maeght Foundation (St-Paul-de-Vence): 801–802

Magic, House of (Blois): 414–415

Maginot Monument (Verdun): 1078

Magny-en-Bessin: sleeping, 293

Magny-les-Villers: 897, 903–904

MAHB (Bayeux): 274–275

Mail: 1143–1144. See also specific destinations

Maison de la Magie (Blois): 414–415

Maison de la Montagne (Chamonix): 834

Maison des Artistes (Chamonix): 835, 863

Maison des Climats (Beaune): 871, 880

Maison des Têtes (Colmar): 991

Maison du Beurre Bordier (St-Malo): 360

Maison Forte de Reignac: 505

Maison Herzer (Kaysersberg): 1022–1023

Maison Pfister (Colmar): 989

Maisons Satie (Honfleur): 258

Malaucène: 685, 686

Manet, Edouard: 91, 92, 104, 638

Manoir de Gisson (Sarlat): 467–468

Manville Mansion City Hall (Les Baux): 657–658

Maps: navigation tools, 1105, 1158–1159. See also Map Index

Marais (Paris): 36, 118–123, 141–147; eating, 156–164; guided tours, 53–54; maps, 142–143, 158–159; shopping, 128; sleeping, 144–147

Marie-Antoinette: 77, 78, 199, 201–203, 1092–1093

Markets: 1126–1127; Albi, 535, 542; Amboise, 380–381; Annecy, 812; Antibes, 787, 792, 798; Arles, 595, 615–616; Avignon, 636–637, 646–647; Bayeux, 267; Beaune, 871; Bergheim, 1030; Beynac, 460, 485; Blois, 411; Bonnieux, 700; Bourges, 923; Carcassonne, 549; Castelnaud, 478; Chamonix, 830; Chartres, 206; Chinon, 429; Cluny, 931; Collioure, 572; Colmar, 982, 986–987; Dinan, 343, 346–347; Dinard, 360; Domme, 460, 480; Dordogne, 460; Honfleur, 253; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 691, 692; Kaysersberg, 1025; La Roque-Gageac, 481; Lyon, 943, 962, 970; Martel, 516; Mortemart, 513; Nice, 724, 727–728, 744; Orange, 666; Paris, 77, 101; Reims, 1053, 1060, 1070–1071; Rouen, 244; St-Emilion, 513; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 661; Sarlat, 460, 462, 466–467; Strasbourg, 1040; Vaison-la-Romaine, 672–673; Vence, 803; Versailles, 203–204; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 753

Marmottan Museum (Paris): 57, 103–104

Martel (Reims): 1063

Martel (town): 516

Martigny, Switzerland: 832, 856–857

Mary Magdalene: 916, 918, 919–920

Masséna Museum (Nice): 734

Massif Fortifié de Souville (Verdun): 1078

Matignon: 363–364

Matisse, Henri: 95, 122, 542, 574, 577, 959; Chapel of the Rosary (Vence), 803–804; Museum (Nice), 720, 732–733

Matterhorn: 839, 843, 844

Maussane: 660; eating, 660; sleeping, 660

Mayle, Peter: 583, 592, 689, 699, 1118, 1175

Medical help: 1098; Paris, 37–38

Medieval Quarter (Bourges): 923, 926–927

Mémorial de Caen: 314–317

Mémorial de la Déportation (Paris): 70

Mémorial de la Shoah (Paris): 121

Mémorial de Verdun: 1079

Mémorial 39/45 Museum (Alet): 361

Ménerbes: 699

Menthon-St-Bernard: 820

Menton: 774

Mer de Glace (Alps): 833, 840–842, 846

Merveilles Cave: 521

Metallic Tower (Lyon): 947

Meter Man (Colmar): 989

Metric system: 1178–1179

Métro (Paris): 39–42, 135, 144; Cité “Metropolitain” stop, 76–77

Meursault: 893–894, 899; eating, 890

Middle Corniche: 762–764

Minerve: 569–570

Mini-Châteaux (Amboise): 389, 392

Minivan tours: overview, 1155–1156

Miró, Joan: 114, 577, 802

Mischief and Mayhem (Aloxe-Corton): 896, 903

Mistral, Frédéric: 609

Mistral winds: 592

Mobile phones: 1141–1143. See also Apps

Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Nice): 720, 733

Modern-Art Museum (Céret): 577

Moët et Chandon (Epernay): 1069

Monaco: 704, 773–785; eating, 784; helpful hints, 778; map, 776–777; self-guided walk, 779–782; sight/activities, 779–783; sleeping, 783–784; tourist information, 775; transportation, 775, 778, 779, 784–785

Monaco Cathedral: 781

Monaco Grand Prix: 705, 736, 773, 778, 780, 1172

Monaco Philharmonic Orchestra: 778

Monaco-Ville: 774, 779–782, 783–784

Mona Lisa (da Vinci): 85–86

Monastère St. Paul de Mausole (St-Rémy): 661–663

Monet, Claude: 93, 112, 239–241, 245, 249, 254, 959, 995, 1093; Gardens ahd House (Giverny), 216, 218–220; gravesite, in Giverny, 220; Marmottan Museum (Paris), 57, 103–104; Orangerie Museum (Paris), 56, 95–96

Money: 1100–1105; average daily expenses, 25; budgeting, 25

Money belts: 37, 1100, 1103

Money-saving tips: 25–26, 1099–1100; Lyon, 939; Paris, 150; Riviera, 704–705; sleeping, 1108–1109; Strasbourg, 1031

Mont-Alban Fort: 758–759

Mont Blanc: 806, 825, 834–835

Monte Carlo: See Monaco

Monte Carlo Ballet: 778

Monte Carlo Casino: 782–783

Montée de la Grande Côte (Lyon): 960–961

Montenvers: 833, 840–842, 846–847

Montfort: 475, 479–480

Montignac: 506–508; market, 460

Montmartre (Paris): 36, 57, 123–126; eating, 168; map, 124

Montmartre Museum (Paris): 126

Montparnasse Tower (Paris): 108–109

Mont Rouge: 695

Mont St-Michel: 228, 318–336; eating, 334–335; helpful hints, 322–324; maps, 319, 321, 323; sights/activities, 324–331; sleeping, 331–333; tourist information, 319–320; transportation, 320–322, 335–336

Mont St-Michel Abbey: 326–331

Mont St-Michel Bay: 318, 324

Mont St-Michel Ramparts: 331

Montsec Monument (St-Mihiel): 1082–1083

Mont Ventoux: 632, 671

Monument to the Dying Lion (Verdun): 1078

Morey-St-Denis: 906

Morrison, Jim: 122

Mortemart: 513

Mountaineering Center (Chamonix): 856

Moutarderie Fallot (Beaune): 881–882

Movies, recommended: 1176–1178

Moyenne Corniche: 762–764

Mumm (Reims): 1062

Musée Alpin (Chamonix): 855

Musée Angladon (Avignon): 638

Musée Animé du Vin (Chinon): 432

Musée Archéologique: See Archaeological museums

Musée Calvet (Avignon): 638

Musée Carnavalet (Paris): 119

Musée-Château d’Annecy: 815

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Orange): 669

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Baron Gérard (Bayeux): 274–275

Musée d’Art et Histoire du Judaïsme (Paris): 120–121

Musée d’Art Moderne de Céret: 577

Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice): 720, 733

Musée de la Reddition (Reims): 1053, 1060–1061

Musée de l’Armée (Paris): 56, 101–102

Musée de l’Hôtel de Ville (Amboise): 385

Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris): 56, 95–96

Musée de Montmartre (Paris): 126

Musée Départemental Arles Antiques: 611–613

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Lyon, 944, 958–959; Nice, 733; Paris, 112–113; Rouen, 244–245; Strasbourg, 1037

Musée des Confluences (Lyon): 961

Musée des Cristaux (Chamonix): 856

Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art Populaire Normand (Honfleur): 258–259

Musée d’Histoire et d’Archéologie (Antibes): 793, 794

Musée d’Orsay (Paris): 56, 88–95; map, 89

Musée du Débarquement (Arromanches): 291

Musée du Débarquement (Utah Beach): 309–310

Musée du Louvre (Paris): 56, 79–88; map, 82

Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon): 631–632

Musée du Vin de Bourgogne (Beaune): 881

Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 638

Musée Le Carroi (Chinon): 433

Musée le Secq des Tournelles (Rouen): 245

Musée Lumière (Lyon): 944, 963

Musée Marmottan Monet (Paris): 57, 103–104

Musée Masséna (Nice): 734

Musée Matisse (Nice): 720, 732–733

Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Normandie (Bayeux): 275

Musée Mémorial d’Omaha Beach: 300–301

Musée National d’Art Moderne (Paris): 121–122

Musée National de Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 497, 500–501

Musée National du Moyen Age (Paris): 57, 104

Musée National March Chagall (Nice): 720, 730–732

Musée Océanographique (Monaco): 781–782

Musée Picasso (Antibes): 793–794

Musée Picasso (Paris): 57, 119–120

Musée Réattu (Arles): 611

Musée Rodin (Paris): 57, 102–103

Musées des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs (Lyon): 959

Musées Gadagne (Lyon): 956–957

Musée Toulouse-Lautrec (Albi): 539–542

Musée Yves Brayer (Les Baux): 658

Museon Arlaten (Arles): 610

MuséoParc Alésia (Alise-Ste-Reine): 908–909

Museums: sightseeing tips, 1106–1107. See also specific museums

Museum of Annecy: 814, 815

Museum of Ceramics (Rouen): 245

Museum of Decorative Arts (Strasbourg): 1037

Museum of Ethnography (Honfleur): 258–259

Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 220

Museum of Ironworks (Rouen): 245

Museum of Santons (Les Baux): 658–659

Museum of the Sea (Honfleur): 259

Museum of the Surrender (Reims): 1053, 1060–1061

Museum of the Wine of Burgundy (Beaune): 881

Museum Pass (Paris): 58–60, 61

Museums of Textiles and Decorative Arts (Lyon): 959

Mushroom caves: 450–451

Mustard Mill (Beaune): 881–882

N

Nançon River: 368

Napoleon Bonaparte: 86, 111, 198, 202, 763, 933, 1090–1091, 1093; Tomb (Paris), 56, 101–102

Narbonne Gate (Carcassonne): 553, 559

Narrow-gauge train, in Nice: 735

National Guard Memorial (Omaha Beach): 303–304

National Museum of Prehistory (Les Eyzies): 497, 500–501

National Stud Farm (Cluny): 933

Nazelles-Négron: sleeping, 397

Nice: 704, 713–751; at a glance, 720; arrival in, 716; eating, 741–748; helpful hints, 716–717; as home base, 702; maps, 714–715, 738, 742–743, 746, 754–755; nightlife, 735–736; self-guided walk, 721–730; sights/activities, 730–735; sleeping, 736–741; tourist information, 713; tours, 719–721; transportation, 716, 718–719, 748–751

Nice Airport: 750–751; sleeping near, 748

Nice Archaeological Museum: 733

Nice Carnival: 705, 736

Nice Fine Arts Museum: 733

Nice Jazz Festival: 1172

Nice Modern and Contemporary Art Museum: 720, 733

Nice Opera House: 727

Normandy: 12, 225–336; at a glance, 228; cuisine, 229, 230, 334; map, 226–227; planning tips, 225–227; tours, 229; transportation, 227–228. See also D-Day beaches

Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 297–299

Normandy Bridge: 260

Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 275

Norman Popular Arts (Honfleur): 258–259

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Chartres): 205, 207–213; map, 211

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Paris): 56, 64–69, 71–72, 132; fire of 2019 and rebuilding, 66–67; map, 65; virtual tour of interior, 68

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Reims): 1053–1057

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Rouen): 234, 239–242; light show, 234–235

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Strasbourg): 1035–1037, 1040

Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Lyon): 944, 948–950

Notre-Dame de Grâce Chapel (Honfleur): 259

Notre-Dame de l’Annonciation (Nice): 728

Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral (Vaison): 676–677

Notre-Dame des Anges (Collioure): 574

Notre-Dame des Anges (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 692

Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey: 698–699

Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 943, 950, 1172

Nuits-St-Georges: 904

Nyons: market, 593

O

Oceanography Museum (Monaco): 781–782

Ochre Cliffs Trail (Roussillon): 695

Ochre Conservatory (Roussillon): 695

Old Honfleur: 254–255, 261

Old Lyon: See Vieux Lyon

Old Market Hall (Colmar): 986–987

Old Nice: See Vieux Nice

Old Town (Colmar): 984–991; eating, 1001–1002; map, 985

Olive oil: 460, 573, 726, 745

Omaha Beach: 294–308; maps, 282–283, 295; sleeping near, 307–308

Omaha Beach Beachfront Drive: 303

Omaha Beach Focal Point: 302

Omaha Beach Memorial Museum: 300–301

Omaha Beach Memorial Statues: 302

Opera: Lyon, 950; Nice, 727; Paris, 57, 115–117, 131–132

Opéra Bastille (Paris): 131

Opéra Exhibit (Paris): 91

Opéra Garnier (Paris): 57, 115–117, 131–132

Opéra neighborhood (Paris): 35–36, 115–118; map, 115

Oppède-le-Vieux: 699

Oradour-sur-Glane: 453, 511–513

Orange: 585, 665–670; map, 667

Orange City Hall: 670

Orangerie Museum (Paris): 56, 95–96

Orange Roman Theater: 666–669

Orches: 900–901

Orly Airport (Paris): 174–175; sleeping, 149

Orsay Museum (Paris): 56, 88–95; map, 89

Our Lady of Rocamadour: 521, 523–524

Overlord Museum (Omaha Beach): 299–300

P

Packing tips and checklist: 28, 1181

Padirac Cave: 524–525

Palace of Justice (Rouen): 239

Palace of the Popes (Avignon): 631, 633–635

Palace Square (Avignon): 631

Palace Square (Monaco): 779–780

Palais de Justice (Paris): 76, 239

Palais de la Méditerranée (Nice): 723

Palais de l’Isle (Annecy): 814, 815

Palais des Papes (Avignon): 631, 633–635

Palais du Tau (Reims): 1057–1059

Palais Jacques Cœur (Bourges): 927

Palais Jean de Bourbon (Cluny): 933

Palais Lascaris (Nice): 729

Palais Princier (Monaco): 780–781

Palais Rohan (Strasbourg): 1037

Palais Royal (Paris): 88

Panthéon (Paris): 57, 105, 108; eating near, 168

Paragliding: 852, 853, 856

Parc de la Bouzaize (Beaune): 882

Parc de la Tête d’Or (Lyon): 944

Parc de Loisirs des Planards (Chamonix): 845, 853

Parc de Merlet (Chamonix): 845

Paris: 12, 33–184; at a glance, 56–57; arrondisements, 34–36; eating, 150–169; entertainment, 129–132; excursion areas, 185–224; helpful hints, 36–39; money-saving tips, 58–60, 150; nightlife, 129–134; orientation, 34–36; planning tips, 33–34; self-guided walks, 61–79, 110–111, 132–133; shopping, 117–118, 126–129; sights, 79–126; sightseeing strategies, 38, 58–60; sleeping, 134–149; tourist information, 36; tours, 49–55, 58, 132–134; transportation, 39–49, 169–184. See also specific neighborhoods

Paris Archaeological Crypt: 61

Paris Catacombs: 109–110

Paris Métro: See Métro

Paris Museum of Fine Arts: 112–113

Paris Museum Pass: 58–60, 61

Paris Plages: 56, 79

Paris Sewer Museum: 100–101

Paris Voice: 36, 130

Park Couttet (Chamonix): 835

Parthenon Friezes: 84

Passage de l’Argue (Lyon): 960

Passports: 27, 1098

Path of Fauvism (Collioure): 574

Patriarche Père et Fils (Beaune): 884

Pech Merle Cave: 497, 528

Pedestrian safety, in Paris: 37

Penitents Chapel (Les Baux): 658

Père Lachaise Cemetery (Paris): 57, 122–123

Perfume: 127, 606–608, 772

Périgord-Aventure et Loisirs: 478

Pernand-Vergelesses: 903, 904

Perreux Château: 396

Petit Balcon Sud (Alps): 851–852

Petite France (Strasbourg): 1039, 1040, 1042

Petite Venise (Colmar): 987, 999; eating, 1002

Petit Palais (Paris): 112–113

Petit Palais Museum (Avignon): 631–632

Petit Thouars Château (Chinon): 435

Petit train (tourist trains): Albi, 536; Amboise, 381; Avignon, 627, 630; Bayeux, 270; Beaune, 872–873; Carcassonne, 552; Collioure, 572; Colmar, 983; Dinan, 344; Eguisheim, 1014; Honfleur, 253; Nice, 719; Paris, 52; Riquewihr, 1027; Rocamadour, 520; Strasbourg, 1034; Vaison-la-Romaine, 674; Versailles, 200

Peyrepertuse Château: 567–568

Pfister House (Colmar): 989

Philip the Fair Tower (Villeneuve): 639

Phones: 1141–1143

Piaf, Edith: 122, 757, 1177

Picasso, Pablo: 95, 122, 577, 959, 995; Museum (Antibes), 793–794; Museum (Paris), 57, 119–120

Pickpockets: See Theft alerts

Picnics: 1123–1127; vocabulary, 1124. See also Markets

Pigalle (Paris): 126

Piscine du Centre Sportif Richard Bozon (Chamonix): 845

Place Albert I (Antibes): 786

Place Balmat (Chamonix): 834–835

Place Benjamin Zix (Strasbourg): 1039

Place Billard (Chartres): 206

Place Charles de Gaulle (Bayeux): 273–274

Place Dauphine (Paris): 78

Place de la Bastille (Paris): 131; eating, 161–162

Place de la Cathédrale (Strasbourg): 1034–1035

Place de la Liberté (Sarlat): 465

Place de la Madeleine (Paris): 117–118, 128

Place de la Mairie (Roussillon): 695

Place de l’Ancienne Douane (Colmar): 985–986

Place de la République (Arles): 604–605

Place de l’Horloge (Avignon): 630–631

Place de l’Opéra (Paris): 129

Place de République (St-Rémy): 661

Place des Capucins (Lyon): 961

Place des Celestins (Lyon): 964–965

Place des Châtaignes (Avignon): 635–636; eating, 646

Place des Corps-Saints (Avignon): 646

Place des Merciers (Dinan): 346

Place des Oies (Sarlat): 467–468

Place des Terreaux (Lyon): 957–958, 961

Place des Vosges (Paris): 118–119; eating, 157, 160; sleeping, 144–146

Place Drouet d’Erlon (Reims): 1052–1053, 1070

Place du Centenaire (Eze): 771

Place du Change (Lyon): 957

Place du Châteaux Saint-Léon (Eguisheim): 1015

Place du Dr. Pierre Walter (Bergheim): 1029–1030

Place du Forum (Arles): 608–610; eating, 621–622

Place du Forum (Reims): 1053, 1059–1060; eating, 1070

Place du Général de Gaulle (Chinon): 432

Place du Grand Puits (Carcassonne): 557

Place du Guesclin (Dinan): 343–345

Place du Marché Notre-Dame (Versailles): 203–204, 205

Place du Marché Ste. Catherine (Paris), eating: 162

Place du Mont Blanc (Chamonix): market, 830

Place du Palais (Avignon): 631

Place du Palais (Monaco): 779–780

Place du Peyrou (Sarlat): 464–465

Place du Tertre (Paris): 125

Place du Trocadéro (Paris): 100, 132

Place du Vieux Marché (Rouen): 235

Place Général Leclerc (Collioure): 572

Place Jeanne d’Arc (Chinon): 429

Place Lamartine (Arles): 599–600

Place Louis Lépine (Paris): 77

Place Louis XII (Blois): 411

Place Madeleine (Beaune), eating: 890

Place Masséna (Nice): 713, 725–726; eating, 747

Place Michel Debré (Amboise): 386

Place Nautique (Lyon): 961

Place Neuve St. Jean (Lyon): 956

Place Notre-Dame (Annecy): 815

Place Pie (Avignon): 646–647

Place Rossetti (Nice): 729–730

Place Ste. Cécile (Albi): 536

Place St. Marc (Rouen): 244

Place St. Marc (Rouen), market: 234, 244

Place St. Michel (Paris): 73

Place St. André-des-Arts (Paris): 73

Place St. Jean (Carcassonne): 557, 564

Place St. Patrice (Bayeux): 267

Place Vendôme (Paris): 118, 129

Place Voltaire (Arles): 601–602

Plage d’Albigny (Annecy): 817

Plage de la Gravette (Antibes): 791, 793–794

Plage de la Paloma (Cap Ferrat): 767–768, 769

Plage de la Salis (Antibes): 795

Plage de Passable (Cap Ferrat): 767

Plage de Port d’Avall (Collioure): 575

Plage d’Imperial (Annecy): 816–817

Plage Municipal de Sevrier (Annecy): 817

Plage St. Vincent (Collioure): 575

Plague Cemetery (Rouen): 243–244

Plan de l’Aiguille (Alps): 833, 840, 841, 846, 860

Planpraz (Alps): 833, 843–844, 847

Pléhérel-Plage: 365–366

Ploubalay: 363–364

Poilâne (Paris): 129

Pointe du Chevet: 364

Pointe du Grouin: 367

Pointe du Hoc: 304–306

Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument: 304

Pointe Helbronner: 836, 839

Pôle International de la Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 497, 500

Politics: 1091, 1094–1096

Pommard: 892–893

Pompidou Center (Paris): 57, 121–122; sleeping near, 146–147

Pont au Double (Paris): 72

Pont Bonaparte (Lyon): 942, 947–948, 961

Pont d’Avignon (pont St. Bénezet): 633

Pont de Normandie: 260

Pont des Arts (Paris): 78

Pont de Tancarville: 247

Pont du Corbeau (Strasbourg): 1038

Pont du Gard: 585, 649–653; map, 650

Pont du Gard Museum: 651–652

Pont Julien: 700–701

Pont Morens (Annecy): 814

Pont Neuf (Paris): 78

Pontorson: 334, 335; sleeping, 334

Pont Tournelle (Paris): 69

Pont Valentré (Cahors): 528–529

Pont Vieux (Albi): 542

Pont Vieux (Carcassonne): 548, 559

Population: 1085

Port de Lyvet: 350

Porte d’Aude (Carcassonne): 559

Porte de Dinan (St-Malo): 359–360

Porte de Mars (Reims): 1053, 1060

Porte des Champs Vauverts (St-Malo): 359

Port-en-Bessin: 296–297

Porte Sainte Anne (Fougères): 368

Porte St. Pierre (St-Malo): 359

Porte St. Thomas (St-Malo): 358

Port Winston Artificial Harbor (Arromanches): 289–290

Post offices: 1143–1144; Monaco, 778, 782. See also specific destinations

Pouilly-en-Auxois: 915

Pouilly-Fuissé: 894, 897, 972

Pray Château: 396, 399

Prehistoric caves: See Cro-Magnon caves

Prehistory Welcome Center (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac): 497, 500

Presqu’île (Lyon): 939, 957–960; eating, 959–960; map, 968–969; nightlife, 964; sleeping, 965

Prince’s Palace (Monaco): 780–781

Printemps (Paris): 127, 129

Printemps de Bourges: 924

Promenade des Anglais (Nice): 713, 720, 721–725, 735; eating, 747–748; map, 714–715; sleeping, 739–740

Promenade du Moulinet (Dinard): 361

Promenade du Paillon (Nice): 726

Pronunciation guide: 1182–1186

Provence: 12, 14, 583–688; at a glance, 585; cuisine, 591–592; maps, 584, 586; market days, 593; planning tips, 583–585; tours, 587–588; transportation, 585–586. See also specific destinations

Puligny-Montrachet: 894, 899

Puppets of the World Museum (Lyon): 957

Puycelsi: 545–547

Puymin: 674–675

Q

Quai de l’Horloge (Paris): 78

Quai de l’Horloge (Paris): 78

Quai des Etats-Unis (Nice): 724

Quartier Latin (Paris): See Latin Quarter

Quéribus: 568