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Z |
Abbeys: Cluny, 931–933; Fontenay, 911–913; Fontevraud, 448–450; Jumièges, 246–247; Mont St-Michel, 326–331; Notre-Dame de Sénanque, 698–699; St. Georges de Boscherville, 246
Abri du Cap Blanc: 497, 503–504
Acccommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Aiguille du Dru (Alps): 841
Aiguille du Midi Gondola (Alps): 830–832, 833, 836–840; hiking, 846; maps, 831, 837
Airbnb: 25–26, 1110–1111, 1117, 1120; Paris, 149
Airborne Museum (Utah Beach): 311–312
Airports: Geneva, 812, 827, 864; Lyon, 942–943; Nice, 750–751; Paris, 169–176; Strasbourg, 1032–1033
Aître St. Maclou (Rouen): 243–244
À l’Aise Breizh (Dinan): 345–346
Albert I Park (Nice): 724
Albert Schweitzer Museum (Kaysersberg): 1023–1024
Albi: 533–544; eating, 543–544; helpful hints, 535–536; map, 534; sights/activities, 536–542; sleeping, 543; tourist information, 535; transportation, 535, 544
Alésia MuséoParc (Alise-Ste-Reine): 908–909
Alise Ste-Reine: 908–909, 913, 915
Allen, Paul: 755
All the Light We Cannot See (Doerr): 354–355, 1175
Almanac: 1085
Alpine Museum (Chamonix): 855
Alps (Alpes-Savoie): 16, 806–864; cuisine, 808; geology, 842–843; map, 807; planning tips, 806–808; transportation, 808. See also Annecy; Chamonix
Alsace: 16, 974–1043; cuisine, 977; map, 975; planning tips, 976; transportation, 976. See also specific destinations
Alsatian folk dancing and music: 999, 1040
Alsatian half-timbered houses: 987, 988, 989, 1026, 1029
Alsatian Museum (Strasbourg): 1038
Alsatian wines: 977–978, 1003–1013; about, 1007–1008; Colmar, 982, 999; Eguisheim, 1017–1018; Kaysersberg, 1024; map, 1005; Riquewihr, 1025–1028; Route du Vin, 1003–1013; tours, 1009
Amboise: 370, 379–403; eating, 397–399; helpful hints, 380–381; maps, 382–383, 400–401; self-guided walk, 384–386; sights/activities, 386–393; sleeping, 393–397; tourist information, 380; transportation, 380, 399–403
Amboise City Hall Museum: 385
Amboise Clock Tower: 385
Amboise Royal Castle (Château): 375, 386–387, 389
American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 297–299
American Cemetery and Memorial (Thiaucourt): 1082
American Church (Paris): 131
American Hospital (Paris): 38
Amphithéâtre (Arles): 601–603
Amsterdam: train travel, 182
Angoville-au-Plain Church: 309
Annecy: 809–825; eating, 823–824; helpful hints, 812–813; history of, 813; map, 810–811; nightlife, 824; self-guided walk, 814–815; sights/activities, 814–821; sleeping, 821–823; tourist information, 809; transportation, 809–812, 824–825
Annecy Château Museum: 815
Annecy, Lake: 809, 815–819, 820–821; beaches, 816–817; cruises, 817; map, 818
Antibes: 704, 785–799; eating, 798–799; helpful hints, 787, 790; as home base, 703; map, 788–789; self-guided walk, 790–793; sights/activities, 793–796; sleeping, 796–797; tourist information, 786; transportation, 786–787, 799
Antibes History and Archaeology Museum: 793, 794
Antibes Market Hall: 787, 792, 798
Anybody’s Tombstone (Dinan): 345
Aosta, Italy: 857
Apartment rentals: 1110–1111, 1117, 1120; Paris, 149
Aperitifs: 1140–1141
Apps: 28, 1142; messaging, 1143; navigation, 1105, 1158–1159; Paris, 38; sightseeing, 1107; user reviews, 1111
Apt: market, 593
Aquarium, in Monaco: 781–782
Aqueduct (Pont du Gard): 649–653
“Arc de Triomphe” (Orange): 669–670
Arc de Triomphe (Paris): 57, 111, 132
Archaeological museums: Alise Ste-Reine, 908–909; Antibes, 793, 794; Arles, 611–613; Cluny, 933; Colmar, 995; Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, 497, 500–501; Lyon, 950–952; Nice, 733; Paris, 61, 104; Pont du Gard, 651–652; Strasbourg, 1037
Archaeological sites: See Cro-Magnon caves; Roman sites
Argentière: 851–852
Arlaten Folk Museum (Arles): 610
Arles: 585, 593–624; eating, 620–623; helpful hints, 595, 598; maps, 596–597, 614, 618–619; planning tips, 594; self-guided walk, 598–610; sights/activities, 610–617; sleeping, 617–620; tourist information, 594; transportation, 594–595, 598, 623–624
Arles Ancient History Museum: 611–613
Arles Roman Arena: 601–603
Arles Roman Theater: 604
Army Museum (Paris): 56, 101–102
Arpentis Château: 396
Arromanches: 288–294; eating, 293; map, 289; sights, 289–291; sleeping, 292–293
Arromanches 360° Theater: 290
Art: history timeline, 1086–1087; of the Riviera, 711. See also Cro-Magnon caves; Impressionism; and specific artists
Art museums: general tips, 1106–1107. See also specific art museums
Atelier de la Soierie (Lyon): 958
Athenaeum (Beaune): 872
Atlantic Wall: 275, 296, 310, 317, 358
ATMs: 1100–1102. See also specific destinations
Attitude, French: 30
Aude River: 559
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 29, 1169
Autoire: 518
Auvers-sur-Oise: guided tours, 55, 58
Auzou (Rouen): 236–237
Avenue de la République (Beaune): 882–883
Avenue Jean Médecin (Nice): 726
Avignon: 585, 624–649; eating, 641–647; helpful hints, 626–627; maps, 628–629, 642–643; self-guided walk, 630–638; sights/activities, 638–639; sleeping, 639–641; tourist information, 624–625; tours, 627, 630; transportation, 625–626, 647–649
Avignon City Hall: 630
Avignon Festival: 624, 626, 1172
Avignon Market Hall: 627, 636–637, 646–647
Avignon Ramparts: 633
Avignon Synagogue: 636
Avignon Waterwheel: 637
Aÿ: 1066
Azay-le-Rideau: 371–372, 440–443; eating, 442–443; sleeping, 442; tourist information, 440
Azay-le-Rideau Château: 375, 440–442
Baeckeoffe: 977
Baie des Anges (Nice): 722–723
Band of Brothers (movie): 287, 308, 309
Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 28. See also Money
Barrage Vauban (Strasbourg): 1039
Bartholdi, Frédéric-Auguste: 957–958, 982, 986–987; Museum (Colmar), 989, 997–998
Basilica of Ste. Madeleine (Vézelay): 917–920
Basse Corniche: 762–764
Bastides: 544–547
Bastille Opera (Paris): 131
Bateaux-Mouches (Paris): 52–53
Bateaux Parisiens (Paris): 53
Baths of Constantine (Arles): 611
Batobus (Paris): 53
Battle of Hastings: overview, 272
Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 275
Bayeux: 228, 265–280; eating, 278–279; helpful hints, 267; map, 268–269; sights, 270–275; sleeping, 276–278; tourist information, 266; tours, 267, 270; transportation, 266, 279–280
Bayeux Cathedral: 271–273
Bayeux Tapestry: 270–271
Bay of Angels (Nice): 722–723
Bay of Mont St-Michel: 318, 324
Bayonet Trench (Verdun): 1081
Beaches: Annecy, 816–817; Antibes, 791, 794–795; Cap Ferrat, 767–768; Cap Fréhel, 365–366; Collioure, 570, 573, 575; Dinard, 360; Dunes de Chevrêts, 366–367; Etrétat, 260; Nice, 713, 717, 723–724; Paris, 56, 79; Pont du Gard, 651; St-Malo, 354. See also D-Day beaches
Beaujolais: 937, 971–973; tours, 946
Beaulieu-sur-Mer: 768
Beaune: 867, 870–891, 901; eating, 889–891; helpful hints, 871–872; maps, 876–877, 886–887; shopping, 872; sights/activities, 874–884; sleeping, 884–888; tourist information, 870–871; tours, 872–874, 883; transportation, 871, 891
Beaune Ramparts: 883–884
Beaune region: 892–907; maps, 900, 902; north vineyard loop, 898, 901–904; Route des Grands Crus, 898, 904–907; south vineyard loop, 898, 899–901
Beauvais Airport (Paris): 175–176
Bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes): 1116; Paris, 149. See also specific destinations
“Bedford Boys”: 303
Beer: about, 1140
Belvès: market, 460
Bennwihr: 1011
Berthillon (Paris): 165
Beverages: 1137–1141. See also Wine and vineyards
Beynac: 476, 479, 484–487; eating, 487; market, 460, 485; sleeping, 486–487
Beynac Château: 485–486
Bibliothèque Carnegie (Reims): 1053, 1059
Big Red One Museum (Colleville-sur-Mer): 297
Biking (bike rentals): 1167; Tour de France, 1172; Alsace, 982–983, 1009, 1012, 1014, 1020, 1024; Amboise, 381, 392; Annecy, 812–813, 818–819; Antibes, 790; Arles, 595; Avignon, 626, 627; Bayeux, 267; Beaune, 873–874, 891–892; Blois, 412, 415; Burgundy, 873–874, 883, 891–892, 898, 899, 901, 903–904; Carcassonne, 549; Chambord, 419–420; Chamonix, 832; Chinon, 429, 436; Dinan, 344; Dordogne, 455; Eguisheim, 1014; Giverny, 218; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 690–691; Kaysersberg, 1020, 1024; Loire Valley, 376–377, 392, 412, 415, 419–420, 429, 436; Luberon, 690–691; Lyon, 945; Nice, 717, 719; Normandy, 282; Paris, 48–49; tours, 55; Pontorson, 334; Provence, 587, 595, 627, 660, 678–679; Rance River Valley, 349–350; Reims, 1049; Ribeauvillé, 1012; St-Emilion, 514; St-Malo, 358; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 587, 660; Sarlat, 462, 464; Strasbourg, 1034; Vaison-la-Romaine, 673, 678–679; Versailles, 200; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 753
Bléré: sleeping, 397
Blois: 370, 409–418; map, 410–411
Blois Royal Castle (Château): 374, 412–414
Blues clubs, in Paris: 130
Boat cruises: Annecy, 817; Avignon, 627; Beynac, 486; Carcassonne, 559; Chinon, 429; Colmar, 983; Dinan, 350; Dinard, 360; Honfleur, 260; La Roque-Gageac, 482; Lyon, 946; Nice, 719–720, 749, 751; Paris, 52–53, 132; Riviera, 710, 719–720, 749, 751, 762, 785; Strasbourg, 1040; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 759
Boating: hotel barges, overview, 1120; Annecy, 813, 817; Antibes, 790; Chenonceaux, 404; Lyon, 944; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 759. See also Canoeing
Bocuse, Paul: 937, 970, 1093; Les Halles, 943, 962, 970
Bonaparte Bridge (Lyon): 942, 947–948, 961
Bonaparte, Napoleon: See Napoleon Bonaparte
Bon Marché (Paris): 129
Bonnieux: 700
Books, recommended: 1173–1176
Bordeaux: 513–515
Boudin, Eugène: 249, 254; biographical sketch, 257; Museum (Honfleur), 256–258
Boules: 135, 360, 481, 617, 753, 800; about, 589
Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 960
Boulevard Malesherbes (Paris): 128
Bourges Cathedral: 925–926
Bourges Medieval Quarter: 923, 926–927
Bouzy: 1066
Braille, Louis: 108
Brancion: 928–929
Brasserie Bofinger (Paris): 161–162
Brayer (Yves) Museum (Les Baux): 658
Breakfast: overview, 1122–1123
British Military Cemetery (Bayeux): 275
Brittany: 15, 337–368; cuisine, 340; map, 338; planning tips, 338; transportation, 339–340. See also specific destinations
Bruniquel: 545
Brussels: train travel, 182
Budgeting (budget tips): 25–26. See also Money-saving tips
Bullgames, in Arles: 616
Burgundy: 16, 865–935; at a glance, 867; cuisine, 868; maps, 866, 914; planning tips, 866–867; transportation, 867, 891–892. See also specific destinations
Burgundy Canal: 907
Burgundy wines: 867, 868–869, 882–883, 892–907; Beaune, 872, 882–883, 884, 888; maps, 900, 902; museums, in Beaune, 880, 881; savoring tactics, 1138–1139; shipping home, 882–883; tours, 872–874, 883; transportation, 891–892
Buses (bus travel): 1154–1155; best three-week trip, 22–23; Paris, 43–47, 138, 144, 183–184; airports, 171–172, 176; scenic routes, 44–45, 46; tours, 49–52, 133. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 1099
Butterfly Exhibit (Hunawihr): 1012
Cabs: See Taxis
Caen: 314–317
Caen Memorial Museum: 314–317
Café de la Mairie (Paris): 129
Café de la Paix (Paris): 117
Café la Nuit (Arles): 609–610
Cafés (brasseries): 1129–1130; tipping, 1103–1104, 1128–1129. See also specific destinations
Calvados: 229, 253, 267, 300, 304
Calvet Museum (Avignon): 638
Camargue Museum: 615
Camargue, the: 613–615; map, 614
Campervan rentals: 1158
Camping (campgrounds): overview, 1121
Canadian Cemetery (Juno Beach): 314
Canadian D-Day sites: 312–314
Canal de Bourgogne: 907
Canal du Midi (Carcassonne): 559
Canauxrama (Paris): 53
Cancale: 367
Candes-St-Martin: 436
Cannes Film Festival: 705, 736, 1172
Canoeing: Chinon, 429, 436; Dinan, 344; Dordogne River, 455–456, 476–479; Loire River, 392, 429, 436; Pont du Gard, 651
Cap d’Antibes: 790, 793, 795–796
Cap Ferrat: 764–769; cruises, 719–720, 759; map, 766
Cap Fréhel: 365–366
Carcassonne: 547–565; eating, 563–565; helpful hints, 549, 552; maps, 550–551, 554, 566; nightlife, 559–560; self-guided walk, 552–557; sights/activities, 558–559; sleeping, 560–563; tourist information, 548; transportation, 548–549, 565
Carcassonne Walls: 553, 555–556, 558
Carennac: 516
Car insurance: 1157–1158
Car leasing: 1158
Carnavalet Museum (Paris): 119
Carnegie Library (Reims): 1053, 1059
Car rentals: 25, 1156–1157; Paris, 173–174. See also specific destinations
Carrières de Lumières (Les Baux): 659
Car travel (driving): 1159–1166; best three-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 1160; driving tips, 1164–1166; navigation options, 1158–1159; Paris, 184; road signs, 1162–1163, 1164. See also specific destinations
Casinos: Chamonix, 835; Monte Carlo, 782–783; Nice, 723
Castelnau-Bretenoux Château: 516, 518
Castelnaud: 476, 478–479, 483–484; sleeping, 484
Castelnaud Château: 483–484
Castelnau-de-Montmiral: 547
Castle Hill (Nice): 717, 720, 725, 735
Castles: See Châteaux
Catacombs of Paris: 109–110
Cathars: overview, 538
Cathédrale de Monaco: 781
Cathédrale Notre-Dame: See Notre-Dame Cathedral
Cathédrale Russe (Nice): 720, 734
Caunes-Minervois: sleeping, 562–563
Caussade: 545
Cavaillon: market, 593
Cavaillon melons: 592
Cave art: See Cro-Magnon caves
Caveau de Puligny-Montrachet: 894, 899
Caveau des Vignerons (Amboise): 392
Caveau des Vignerons (Morey-St-Denis): 906
Caves Painctes (Chinon): 435
Caves Plouzeau (Chinon): 435
Caves Voltaire (Chinon): 434
Cell (mobile) phones: 1141–1143. See also Apps
Centre de Réintroduction (Hunawihr): 1012
Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Lyon): 962–963
Centre International du Vitrail (Chartres): 214
Centre Pompidou (Paris): 57, 121–122; sleeping near, 146–147
Ceramics, Museum of (Rouen): 245
Céret: 577
Cernay: 1010
Cézanne, Paul: 94, 112, 638, 959
Chagall, Marc: 573, 577, 711, 1057; gravesite, in St-Paul-de-Vence, 801; Museum (Nice), 720, 730–732
Chalet de la Floria (Alps): 852
Chambolle-Musigny: 906
Chambord Château: 374, 418–422
Chamonix: 825–864; at a glance, 833, 845; eating, 861–863; helpful hints, 827, 830; hiking, 844–853; history of, 827; maps, 828–829, 831, 837, 848–849; planning tips, 825; self-guided walk, 833–836; sights/activities, 833–856; sleeping, 857–860; tourist information, 826; transportation, 826–827, 830–832, 863–864
Chamonix City Hall: 834
Chamonix Protestant Church: 836
Champagne: 1044, 1061–1069, 1140; about, 1065
Champagne G. Tribaut (Hautvillers): 1068
Champagne Herbert Beaufort (Bouzy): 1066
Champagne region: 1044–1071; cuisine, 1045; maps, 1046–1047, 1067; planning tips, 1044; tours, 1061; transportation, 1044–1045
Champ de Mars (Paris): 100, 138
Champlain, Samuel de: 249
Champs-Elysées (Paris): 35, 56, 110–111, 132; map, 112–113
Changing of the Guard (Monaco): 780
Chapaize: 930
Chapelle Cocteau (Villefranche): 757
Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence): 803–804
Chapelle et Phare de la Garoupe (Antibes): 795
Chapel of Penitents (Les Baux): 658
Chapel of St. Leo IX (Eguisheim): 1015–1016
Chapel of St. Pierre (Villefranche): 757
Chapel of the Rosary (Vence): 803–804
Charlemagne: 240, 530, 547, 553, 1058, 1084, 1092
Charles de Cazanove (Reims): 1062
Charles de Gaulle Airport (Paris): 169–174, 176; map, 170; sleeping, 149
Chartres: 205–215; eating, 215; map, 208–209; sight, 206–214; sleeping, 214–215; tourist information, 206
Chartres Cathedral: 205, 207–213; map, 211
Chassagne-Montrachet: 899
Châteauneuf-en-Auxois: 907–908, 915
Châteaux (castles): architecture, 1089; history, 390–391; Amboise, 375, 386–387, 389; Annecy, 815, 822–823; Arpentis, 396; Azay-le-Rideau, 375, 440–442; Beynac, 485–486; Blois, 374, 412–414; Castelnau-Bretenoux, 516, 518; Castelnaud, 483–484; Chambord, 374, 418–422; Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, 907–908; Chaumont-sur-Loire, 374, 425–428; Chenonceau, 374, 403–408; Cheverny, 374, 422–425; Chinon, 433–434; Clos de Vougeot, 905; Clos-Lucé (Amboise), 375, 387–389; Collioure, 573; Commarque, 504–505; Comtal (Carcassonne), 557, 558–559; Eza, 771; Fayrac, 478–479; Grimaldi (Antibes), 792; Guédelon, 921–922; Hautes Corbières, 565–567; Haut-Kœnigsbourg, 1012–1013; Husseren Les Cinq, 1018; La Fleunie, 508; Langeais, 375, 443–445; La Rochepot, 895, 899–900; Lastours, 568–569; Montfort, 475; Nazelles, 397; Perreux, 396; Peyrepertuse, 567–568; Pray, 396, 399; Quéribus, 568; Rivau, 437; Rocamadour, 521; Savigny, 904; Ussé, 437; Villandry, 375, 445–447; Villeneuve (Vence), 803. See also Versailles Château
Chaumont-sur-Loire Château: 374, 425–428
Cheeses: 161, 229, 230, 360, 377, 459, 592, 808, 868, 937, 1045, 1135–1136
Chemin de la Croix (Rocamadour): 519, 521, 522, 524
Chemin des Fontaines (St-Cirq Lapopie): 678
Chemin du Fauvisme (Collioure): 574
Chemins de Fer de Provence: 735
Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 881
Chénas: 972
Chenonceau Château: 374, 403–408
Cher River: 376, 403; canoeing, 392
Cheverny Château: 374, 422–425
Children, travel tips: 1118–1119
Chinon: 370, 429–440; eating, 438–439; helpful hints, 429; maps, 430–431, 442–443; nightlife, 436; self-guided walk, 429–433; sights/activities, 433–437; sleeping, 437–438; tourist information, 429; transportation, 439–440
Chinon Château: 433–434
Chinon Town Museum: 433
Chiroubles: 972
Chisseaux: eating, 409
Chocolat (Harris): 1175
Chocolat (movie): 482, 909, 911
Chocolate: 128, 236, 385, 607, 727, 911, 1136
Christmas markets: 1173; Annecy, 809; Strasbourg, 1040
Churches (eglises): architecture, 1088. See also specific churches
Church of the Holy Cross (Kaysersberg): 1022
Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes): 792
Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Paris): 57, 122–123
Citadelle Souterraine (Verdun): 1073–1074
Classical theaters: See Théâtre Antique
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 29, 1169
Clos de Vougeot Château: 905
Clos-Lucé Château (Amboise): 375, 387–389
Clothing sizes: 1179
Cluny: 931–934
Cluny Museum (Paris): 57, 73, 104
Cluny Museum of Art and Archaeology: 933
Cocteau (Jean) Chapel (Villefranche): 757
Coffee: 1137–1140
Col de Balme: 853
Col de Banyuls: 577
Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass: 686–687
Col de la Forclaz: 821
Collection Lambert (Avignon): 638–639
Collégiale Notre-Dame (Beaune): 880
Colleville-sur-Mer: 297
Colline du Château (Nice): 717, 720, 725, 735
Collioure: 570–582; eating, 580–582; helpful hints, 572; map, 578–579; nightlife, 575; sights/activities, 572–577; sleeping, 577–580; tourist information, 571; transportation, 571–572, 582
Collioure Royal Castle (Château): 573
Colmar: 978–1003; eating, 1001–1003; helpful hints, 982–983; maps, 980–981, 985; nightlife, 999; self-guided walk, 984–991; sights/activities, 991–998; sleeping, 999–1001; tourist information, 979; tours, 983; transportation, 979, 982, 1003
Colmar Dominican Church: 990, 996
“Colmar Pocket” Museum (Turckheim): 1011
Commarque Château: 504–505
Comtal Château (Carcassonne): 557, 558–559
Conciergerie (Paris): 77–78
Concoeur: 905
Condat-sur-Vézère: sleeping, 508
Confit de canard: 377, 457–458, 459, 1134
Confluence (Lyon): 961
Connery, Sean: 719
Conservatoire de Dentelles (Bayeux): 274
Consulates: 1098–1099
Cooking classes: Carcassonne, 552; Nice, 720–721; Paris, 160–161; Sarlat, 464
Cordes-sur-Ciel: 545
Côte d’Azur: See Riviera; and specific destinations
Côte de Grâce (Honfleur): 259
Côte d’Emeraude: 363–367
Côtes du Rhône: 671–688
Côtes du Rhône Wine Road: 585, 682–688; guided tours, 587–588; map, 683
Courbet, Gustave: 91
Courses camarguaises, in Arles: 616
Courseulles-sur-Mer: 313–314
Cours Jean Jaurès (Avignon): 624
Cours Saleya (Nice): 724, 727–728, 744
Cousteau Aquarium (Monaco): 781–782
COVID-19 pandemic: 3, 67, 1096
Crayon (Lyon): 950
Créancey: 915
Crêpes: about, 1126–1127
Crépon: sleeping, 292–293
Crockpots (baeckeoffe), about: 977
Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 939, 947, 960–961
Cro-Magnon caves: 453, 490–511, 1092; at a glance, 496–497; guided tours, 456–457, 499; helpful hints, 498–499; map, 492–493; overview, 490–491, 494–497; planning tips, 498; reservations, 498–499
Crown of Thorns: 68, 73, 75, 76
Cruise ships, on the Riviera: 751, 762, 785. See also Boat cruises
Cryptoporticos (Arles): 605
Cryptoportique (Reims): 1059–1060
Crystal Museum (Chamonix): 856
Cuisine: 7–8, 1132–1136; Alsace, 977; Brittany, 340; Burgundy, 868; Champagne region, 1045; Dordogne, 457–460; Languedoc-Roussillon, 532–533; Loire Valley, 377; Lyon, 937, 966; Normandy, 229, 230, 334; picnics, 1123–1127; Provence, 591–592; Reims, 1045; Riviera, 712; Savoie, 808; to-go foods, 1125–1127
Curie, Marie: 108
Currency and exchange: 1100–1103
Customs House (Colmar): 984–985
Customs regulations: 1104–1105
Cycling: See Biking
Daladier Bridge (Avignon): 627
Dalí (Salvador) Theater-Museum (Figueres): 577
Daumier, Honoré: 91
Da Vinci Code: 918
Da Vinci, Leonardo: 85–86, 379, 385, 387–389, 391; Mona Lisa, 85–86
D-Day beaches (Normandy): 228, 280–314; American sites, 294–312; Canadian sites, 312–314; helpful hints, 287; history timeline, 284–285; map, 282–283; planning tips, 280–281; tours, 229, 283–287; from Paris, 58, 281; transportation, 281–287
D-Day Experience (Utah Beach): 312
D-Day Landing Museum (Arromanches): 291
Dead Man’s Corner (Utah Beach): 312
Degas, Edgar: 92–93, 104, 112, 245, 638
De Gaulle Airport (Paris): See Charles de Gaulle Airport
De Gaulle, Charles: 57, 102, 111, 274, 275, 314, 317, 1093
Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 92
Delacroix, Eugène: 87, 105, 245, 275
Dentelles de Montmirail: 686–687
Department stores, in Paris: 127, 129
Deportation Memorial (Paris): 70
Dietary restrictions: 1130
Digne: 735
Dinan: 340–354; eating, 352–353; helpful hints, 343–344; map, 342–343; nightlife, 353; self-guided walk, 344–348; sights/activities, 348–351; sleeping, 351–352; tourist information, 341; transportation, 341–343, 354
Dinan Clock Tower: 345
Dinan Old Port: 348–349, 350, 353
Dinan Ramparts: 347
Dinard: 360–361
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Disneyland Paris: 222–224
Dizy: 1066
Dolder Museum (Riquewihr): 1027
Domaine Comte Senard (Aloxe-Corton): 896, 903
Domaine de Balme (Alps): 853, 855
Domaine de Coyeux Winery: 687
Domaine de la Chevalerie (Chinon): 435–436
Domaine de la Giraudière (Villandry): 439, 443, 447–448
Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 187, 188, 201–203; map, 202
Domaine de Mourchon Winery: 685
Domaine Ernest Burn (Gueberschwihr): 1010
Domaine Lejeune (Pommard): 893
Domaine Naudin-Ferrand (Magny-les-Villers): 897, 904
Domaines d’Aloxe-Corton: 896, 903
Dominican Church (Colmar): 990, 996
Domme: 475, 476, 480–481; market, 460, 480
Dordogne: 15, 452–529; at a glance, 453; cuisine, 457–460; home base, 454; maps, 456, 517; markets, 460; planning tips, 452–454; tours, 456–457; transportation, 455–456. See also specific destinations
Dordogne River: 452, 474; canoeing, 455–456, 476–479; cruises, 482, 486; map, 476–477
Dordogne River Valley: 453, 474–490
Douaumont Ossuary (Verdun): 1080–1081
Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations
Ducal Palace (Nice): 728
Duclair: 246
Duingt: 819–820
Dumas, Alexandre: 108
Dunes de Chevrêts: 366–367
Eastern Dordogne: 453, 515–526; map, 517
Eating: 1121–1136; budget tips, 26; with children, 1118–1119; ordering tips, 1131–1132; restaurant phrases, 1188; restaurant pricing, 1122; tipping, 1103–1104, 1128–1129. See also Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations
Economy: 1085, 1091, 1094–1096
Eglise de Carsac: 475
Eglise des Dominicains (Colmar): 990, 996
Eglise Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 235–236
Eglise St-Jacques (Nice): 729
Eglise St-Pierre (Mont St-Michel): 325–326
Eglise Ste. Catherine (Honfleur): 255–256
Eglise St. Salvi et Cloître (Albi): 542
Egouts de Paris: 100–101
Eguisheim: 1010, 1013–1019; map, 1016–1017
Eguisheim Castle: 1015
Eiffel Tower (Paris): 56, 96–100, 132; reservations, 27, 97–98
Eiffel Tower neighborhood (Paris): 35, 96–104; eating, 151, 154; map, 97
Eleanor of Aquitaine: 433–434, 449, 925, 1090, 1092
Electricity: 1099
Elevage du Bouyssou (Sarlat): 487–490
Embassies: 1098–1099
Emerald Coast: 363–367
Emergencies: 1098; Paris, 37–38
Englesqueville la Percée: 304
Entrevaux: 735
Environmental footprint (going green): 1100
Epernay: 1068–1069
Espace Alpinisme (Chamonix): 856
Espace Tairraz (Chamonix): 856
Espace Van Gogh Easel (Arles): 607
Etang de Vaccarès: 615
Etape Gourmande (Villandry): 439, 443, 447–448
ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization: System), 27, 1098
Etrétat: 260
Euro currency: 1101–1102
Exchange rate: 1101
Eza Château: 771
Eze-Bord-de-Mer: 769, 770, 772
Eze Church: 771
Eze-le-Village: 769–772
Fat Tire Tours (Paris): 49, 54, 55, 60
Fauchon (Paris): 128
Fayencerie Augy (Rouen): 242–243
Fayrac Château: 478–479
Festivals: 1171–1173. See also specific festivals
Figueres: 577
Films, recommended: 1176–1178
Flag, French: 1085
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain: 909–911, 915
Fleurie: 972
Fleury: 1079–1080
Flower markets: Nice, 727–728; Paris, 77
Foie gras: 457, 459, 461, 467, 474, 475, 487–490, 977, 1029, 1045; about, 488–489, 1133
Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence): 801–802
Fondation Van Gogh (Arles): 608
Font-de-Gaume Cave: 496, 502–503
Fontenay Abbey (Burgundy): 911–913
Fontevraud Royal Abbey: 448–450
Fontvieille: sleeping, 620
Fontvieille (Monaco): 773, 781
Food: See Cheeses; Chocolate; Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Foie gras; Markets; Olive oil; Truffles
Food allergies: 1130
Food tours: Avignon, 627; Nice, 720–721; Paris, 160
Fort Carré (Antibes): 790, 794
Fort de Douaumont (Verdun): 1082
Fort du Petit Bé (St-Malo): 358
Forteresse Royale de Chinon: 433–434
Fort la Latte: 364–365
Fort St. Elme (Collioure): 576
Forum Square (Arles): See Place du Forum
Fougères: 367–368
Fourvière Hill (Lyon): 939, 948–952
Fragonard Perfume Factory (Eze): 772
Frank Gehry Tower (Arles): 613
French Alps: See Alps
French attitude: 30
French language: See Language
French Riviera: See Riviera
French Riviera Pass: 704–705
Fuissé: 972
Gadagne Museums (Lyon): 956–957
Galamus Gorges: 566–567
Galerie Mario Colonel (Chamonix): 856
Galeries Lafayette (Paris): 117, 129, 131
Gare d’Austerlitz (Paris): 181
Gare de Bercy (Paris): 181
Gare de l’Est (Paris): 180
Gare de Lyon (Paris): 169, 179–180
Gare du Nord (Paris): 178
Gare Montparnasse (Paris): 178–179
Gare St. Lazare (Paris): 180–181
Garnier Opera (Paris): 57, 115–117, 131–132
Gauguin, Paul: 94–95, 104, 609, 959
Gauls: 670, 865, 908–909, 915, 938, 950–952, 1084; about, 910
Gay nightlife, in Paris: 141
Gehry (Frank) Tower (Arles): 613
Génépi: 830
Gérard Sion Galerie (Carcassonne): 559
Géricault, Théodore: 87, 245, 275, 638
German Military Cemeteries (Normandy): 306–307, 331
German Military Cemetery (Bergheim): 1030
Gevrey-Chambertin: 906–907
Gigondas: 688
Gîtes: 1115
Giverny: 216–221; eating, 221; guided tours, 55, 58; map, 217; sleeping, 221
Glaciorium (Alps): 841–842
Glanum (St-Rémy): 663
“Golden Beach” (Omaha Beach): 303
Gondolas, in Chamonix: 830–832, 833, 836–840, 842–844; maps, 831, 837
Gordes: 698
Gorges de Galamus: 566–567
Gouffre de Padirac: 524–525
Government: 1085, 1091, 1094–1096
Governor’s Tower (Dinan): 347
Gramat: 518
Grand Balcon Nord (Alps): 846–847
Grand Balcon Sud (Alps): 833, 847
Grande Allée des Promenades (Reims): 1052
Grande Corniche: 762–764
Grand Prix of Monaco: 705, 736, 773, 778, 780, 1172
Grand Rue (Bergheim): 1029
Grand Rue (Colmar): 988–989
Grand Rue (Eguisheim): 1014–1015
Grand Rue (Mont St-Michel): 318, 324–325
Grand Rue (Ribeauvillé): 1012
Grand Rue (Strasbourg): 1035
Grimaldi Château (Antibes): 792
Gros Horloge (Rouen): 238–239
Grotte de Font-de-Gaume: 496, 502–503
Grotte de Rouffignac: 496, 508–510
Grotte du Pech Merle: 497, 528
Grotte Préhistorique des Merveilles: 521
Grottes de Cougnac: 497, 510–511
Grünewald, Matthias, Isenheim Altarpiece: 992–995
Gueberschwihr: 1010
Guédelon Château: 921–922
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1168–1169; updates, 31, 1168
Guy de Chassey (Louvois): 1066
Half-timbered houses of Alsace: 987, 988, 989, 1026, 1029
Halles Boulingrin (Reims): 1060
Hamlet (Versailles): 202–203
Hartmannswillerkopf (Cernay): 1010
Haussmann, Baron Georges-Eugène: 116
Hautes Corbières Château: 565–567
Haut-Kœnigsbourg Château: 1012–1013
Hautvillers: 1067–1068
Hédiard (Paris): 128
Henri de Villamont (Savigny): 897, 904
Hermès (Paris): 129
Heurtault Tower (Amboise): 387
High Corniche: 762–764
Hiking (walking): Albi, 542; Alet, 361; Alsace, 1009–1010; Annecy, 819–820; Antibes, 795–796; Avignon, 633; Bayeux, 274; Beaune, 882–884; Beynac, 486; Bourges, 926–927; Burgundy, 882–884; Cap Ferrat, 768–769; Cap Fréhel, 365–366; Carcassonne, 558–559; Chamonix, 844–853; map, 848–849; Chartres, 213–214; Collioure, 573, 574, 575–577; Dinan, 348–349; Duingt, 819–820; Eguisheim, 1014–1016; Etrétat, 260; Eze, 770–771; Fort la Latte, 364–365; Giverny, 218; Honfleur, 259; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 692; Kaysersberg, 1024; Lastours, 568–569; Mont St-Michel, 324–326; Omaha Beach, 301; Pont du Gard, 651, 652–653; Rance River Valley, 349–351; Ribeauvillé, 1012; Riquewihr, 1024, 1028; Roussillon, 695; St-Malo, 360; Vaison-la-Romaine, 678; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 758–759
Hill towns of the Luberon: 689–701; map, 690–691
Historial Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 242
History: 1084–1091; timeline, 1086–1087
Holidays: 1171–1173
Holocaust Memorial (Paris): 121
Honfleur: 228, 249–265; eating, 263–264; helpful hints, 253; map, 250–251; nightlife, 261; sights/activities, 253–260; sleeping, 261–263; tourist information, 252; transportation, 252, 264–265
Honfleur Jetty/Park: 260
Horse and Bird of Prey Show (Chambord): 420
Horse-drawn carriage rides: 322, 552, 983
Horses, National Stud Farm (Cluny): 933
Hospices de Beaune: 874–875, 878–880
Hostels (auberge de jeunesse): overview, 1120. See also specific destinations
Hot-air ballooning: 378, 457, 482
Hotels: booking sites, 1110; glossary of terms, 1112; modern chains, 1115; overview, 1109–1115; rates and deals, 1108–1109; reservations, 1114–1115. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
Hotel barges, overview: 1120
Hôtel de la Cité (Carcassonne): 556–557, 560
Hôtel Dieu des Hospices de Beaune: 874–875, 878–880
Hôtel l’Aiguille du Midi (Alps): 859–860
Hôtel La Mirande (Avignon): 635
Hôtel Negresco (Nice): 721–722, 736, 739
Houdini, Harry (Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin): 414–415
House of Etienne de la Boëtie (Sarlat): 465
“House of Heads” (Colmar): 991
House of Magic (Blois): 414–415
Hugo, Victor: 101, 108, 157, 330, 391, 1177; House (Paris), 119
Huisnes-sur-Mer: 331
Hunawihr: 1011–1012
Hurepel de Minerve: 570
Husseren Les Cinq Château: 1018
Ile Besnard: 366–367
Ile de la Cité (Paris): 35, 61–69; map, 62–63
Ile St. Louis (Paris): 57, 69–71, 132; eating, 164–166; map, 62–63; sleeping, 148–149
Ill River: 1038, 1039; cruises, 1040
Illuminated Lyon: 942, 943, 964
Impressionism: 92–93, 95–96, 103–104, 112–113, 216, 218–220, 249, 254
Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 86–87, 90, 245
Institute of Oceanography (Villefranche): 758
International Center for Cave Art (Lascaux): 496, 506–508
International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 214
Internet security: 1144
Isenheim Altarpiece (Grünewald): 992–995
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 691–694
Italy: 836–840, 857; train travel, 183
Janmot, Louis: 959
Jardin Anglais (Dinan): 344
Jardin Botanique (Monaco): 781
Jardin de la Paix (Cape Ferrat): 769
Jardin des Papillons (Hunawihr): 1012
Jardin d’Eté (Arles): 603
Jardin d’Eze: 771
Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris): 105
Jardin du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 632
Jardin Exotique (Monaco): 782
Jazz clubs, in Paris: 130
Jewish Art and History Museum (Paris): 120–121
Jewish Ghetto (Nice): 729
Jewish Quarter (Paris): 118, 141, 144; eating, 163
Joan of Arc: 68, 230, 235–236, 238, 240–241, 246, 325–326, 390, 428, 433, 434, 482, 927, 949, 1054, 1055, 1057, 1090, 1092; biographical sketch, 237; Museum (Rouen), 242
Joan of Arc Church (Rouen): 235–236
Joan of Arc Tower (Rouen): 246
John, Elton: 719
Juliénas: 972
Julien Bridge: 700–701
Jumièges Abbey: 246–247
Juno Beach: 313–314; map, 282–283
Juno Beach Centre (Courseulles): 313–314
Kayaking: See Canoeing
Kaysersberg History Museum: 1022
Keratry Mansion (Dinan): 345
Kids, travel tips: 1118–1119
Kientzheim: 1024
Koïfhus (Colmar): 984–985
La Basoche (Lyon): 955
La Belle Iloise (Dinan): 346, 347
La Cambe: 306–307
La Capelière: 615
Lace Conservatory (Bayeux): 274
La Cité (Carcassonne): 548, 552–557; eating, 563–564; map, 554; sleeping, 560–561
La Cité Médiévale (Rocamadour): 519, 524, 525
La Cité Religieuse (Rocamadour): 519, 521–524
La Cohue (Dinan): 346–347
La Condamine (Monaco): 774
La Confluence (Lyon): 961
Lacoste: 700
La Craquanterie (Dinan): 345
La Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 939, 947, 960–961
La Défense (Paris): 113–114
La Digue de la Mer: 615
Ladurée (Paris): 128
Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 57, 104
La Ferme de la Sapinière (Omaha Beach): 300
La Flégère Lift (Alps): 833, 842–843, 844, 847, 855
La Fleunie Château: 508
La Fontaine Roesselmann (Colmar): 987
La Grande Arche (Paris): 113–114
La Maison des Artistes (Chamonix): 835, 863
La Maison des Climats (Beaune): 871, 880
La Maison des Truffe (Paris): 128
La Marmite de l’Abbaye: 349
Langeais Château: 375, 443–445
Langrolay: sleeping, 352
Language: barrier and French attitude, 30; coffee and tea lingo, 1139–1140; hotel lingo, 1112; online translation tip, 1100; Paris Métro, 41; picnic terms, 1124; pronunciation guide, 1182–1186; restaurant phrases, 1188; road signs, 1162–1163; survival phrases, 1187; train terms, 1146; wine lingo, 1139
Languedoc-Roussillon: 15, 530–582; cuisine, 532–533; map, 531; planning tips, 531–532; transportation, 532. See also specific destinations
Lantern of the Dead (Sarlat): 465–466
La Petite France (Strasbourg): 1039, 1040, 1042
La Rochepot Château: 895, 899–900
La Roque-Gageac: 476, 478, 481–483
La Roque St-Christophe: 497, 505–506
La Roquette (Arles): 610–611; eating, 622–623
La Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 246–247
La Route Napoléon: 705
La Salle, René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de: 239
Lastours Châteaux: 568–569
L’Atelier (Arles): 621
Latin Quarter (Paris): 72–73
La Tour de Faure: 528
La Tour Eiffel (Paris): 56, 96–100, 132; reservations, 27, 97–98
La Tour Métallique (Lyon): 947
La Turbie: 772–773
La Villasse Ruins (Vaison): 675–676
Lebrec Calvados (Omaha Beach): 304
Le Brévent Gondola (Alps): 830–832, 833, 843–844, 855
Le Bugue: market, 460
Le Caveau des Musignys: 906
Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 92
Left Bank (Paris): 36, 104–110; eating, 166–168; guided tours, 53–54; maps, 106–107, 167
Le Hameau Dubœuf (Romanèche-Thorins): 972
Le Mans Auto Race: 1172
Le Mémorial de Caen: 314–317
Le Mistral: 592
Le Mulet (Chamonix): 832
Le Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 638
Leonardo da Vinci Park (Amboise): 387–389
Le Saut aux Loups: 450–451
Les Baux: 585, 654–660; map, 656
Les Baux Castle Ruins: 654, 655, 657
Les Bossons: sleeping, 859–860
Les Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 881
Les Egouts de Paris: 100–101
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac: 497, 499–511; caves near, 502–511; eating, 501; market, 460; sleeping, 501
Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (Versailles): 193
Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes (Versailles): 132, 193
Les Grands Montets: 855
Les Halles (Avignon): 636–637, 646–647
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: 943, 962, 970
Les Haras Nationaux (Cluny): 933
Les Houches: 850–851; skiing, 855
Les Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 943, 950, 1172
Les Rochers Sculptés (Rothéneuf): 366
Le Trophée des Alpes: 772–773
L’Hospitalet (Rocamadour): 519, 520–521, 525–526
Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix): 87
Liberty Tree (Bayeux): 273
Lido (Paris): 110–111
Ligré: sleeping, 438
Limeray: sleeping, 397
L’Officiel des Spectacles: 36, 130
Loire River: 369; biking along, 376–377, 392, 412, 415, 419–420; canoeing, 392, 429
Loire Valley: 15, 369–451; châteaux at a glance, 374–375; châteaux history, 390–391; cuisine, 377; home base, 370–372; map, 370–371; planning tips, 372–373; tours, 377; from Paris, 58; transportation, 373–377; wines, 377–379, 392–393, 424–425, 432, 434–436. See also specific destinations
London: train travel, 182–183
Longest Day, The (movie): 287, 308, 311, 1177
Longues-sur-Mer Gun Battery: 294–296
L’Orangerie (Paris): 56, 95–96
L’Ossuaire de Douaumont (Verdun): 1080–1081
Lot River Valley: 453, 526–529
Loubressac: 518
Louis Vuitton (Paris): 111
Louis XIV (Sun King): 198–199, 1092; Versailles, 194–201
Lourmarin: market, 593
Louvois: 1066
Louvre Museum (Paris): 56, 79–88; map, 82
Low Corniche: 762–764
Lower Town (Les Baux): 657–659
Luberon hill towns: 689–701; map, 690–691
Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Museum (Lyon): 944, 950–952
LUMA Arles: 613
Lumière Museum (Lyon): 944, 963
Luncheon on the Grass (Manet): 92
Luxembourg Garden (Paris): 105
Lyon: 16, 936–971; at a glance, 944; arrival in, 939, 942–943; cuisine, 937; eating, 966–970; helpful hints, 943–944; maps, 940–941, 954, 968–969; nightlife, 964; orientation, 938–939; planning tips, 936–937; shopping, 959–960; sights/activities, 947–963; sleeping, 964–965; tourist information, 939; tours, 945–946; transportation, 939, 942–943, 944–945, 971
Lyon Airport: 942–943
Lyon City Card: 939
Lyon History Museum: 956–957
Lyon Museum of Fine Arts: 944, 958–959
Lyon Opera House: 950
Madeloc Tower: 576–577
Maeght Foundation (St-Paul-de-Vence): 801–802
Magic, House of (Blois): 414–415
Maginot Monument (Verdun): 1078
Magny-en-Bessin: sleeping, 293
Magny-les-Villers: 897, 903–904
MAHB (Bayeux): 274–275
Mail: 1143–1144. See also specific destinations
Maison de la Magie (Blois): 414–415
Maison de la Montagne (Chamonix): 834
Maison des Artistes (Chamonix): 835, 863
Maison des Climats (Beaune): 871, 880
Maison des Têtes (Colmar): 991
Maison du Beurre Bordier (St-Malo): 360
Maison Forte de Reignac: 505
Maison Herzer (Kaysersberg): 1022–1023
Maison Pfister (Colmar): 989
Maisons Satie (Honfleur): 258
Manet, Edouard: 91, 92, 104, 638
Manoir de Gisson (Sarlat): 467–468
Manville Mansion City Hall (Les Baux): 657–658
Maps: navigation tools, 1105, 1158–1159. See also Map Index
Marais (Paris): 36, 118–123, 141–147; eating, 156–164; guided tours, 53–54; maps, 142–143, 158–159; shopping, 128; sleeping, 144–147
Marie-Antoinette: 77, 78, 199, 201–203, 1092–1093
Markets: 1126–1127; Albi, 535, 542; Amboise, 380–381; Annecy, 812; Antibes, 787, 792, 798; Arles, 595, 615–616; Avignon, 636–637, 646–647; Bayeux, 267; Beaune, 871; Bergheim, 1030; Beynac, 460, 485; Blois, 411; Bonnieux, 700; Bourges, 923; Carcassonne, 549; Castelnaud, 478; Chamonix, 830; Chartres, 206; Chinon, 429; Cluny, 931; Collioure, 572; Colmar, 982, 986–987; Dinan, 343, 346–347; Dinard, 360; Domme, 460, 480; Dordogne, 460; Honfleur, 253; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 691, 692; Kaysersberg, 1025; La Roque-Gageac, 481; Lyon, 943, 962, 970; Martel, 516; Mortemart, 513; Nice, 724, 727–728, 744; Orange, 666; Paris, 77, 101; Reims, 1053, 1060, 1070–1071; Rouen, 244; St-Emilion, 513; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 661; Sarlat, 460, 462, 466–467; Strasbourg, 1040; Vaison-la-Romaine, 672–673; Vence, 803; Versailles, 203–204; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 753
Marmottan Museum (Paris): 57, 103–104
Martel (Reims): 1063
Martel (town): 516
Martigny, Switzerland: 832, 856–857
Mary Magdalene: 916, 918, 919–920
Masséna Museum (Nice): 734
Massif Fortifié de Souville (Verdun): 1078
Matignon: 363–364
Matisse, Henri: 95, 122, 542, 574, 577, 959; Chapel of the Rosary (Vence), 803–804; Museum (Nice), 720, 732–733
Maussane: 660; eating, 660; sleeping, 660
Mayle, Peter: 583, 592, 689, 699, 1118, 1175
Medical help: 1098; Paris, 37–38
Medieval Quarter (Bourges): 923, 926–927
Mémorial de Caen: 314–317
Mémorial de la Déportation (Paris): 70
Mémorial de la Shoah (Paris): 121
Mémorial de Verdun: 1079
Mémorial 39/45 Museum (Alet): 361
Ménerbes: 699
Menthon-St-Bernard: 820
Menton: 774
Mer de Glace (Alps): 833, 840–842, 846
Merveilles Cave: 521
Metallic Tower (Lyon): 947
Meter Man (Colmar): 989
Metric system: 1178–1179
Métro (Paris): 39–42, 135, 144; Cité “Metropolitain” stop, 76–77
Meursault: 893–894, 899; eating, 890
Middle Corniche: 762–764
Minerve: 569–570
Mini-Châteaux (Amboise): 389, 392
Minivan tours: overview, 1155–1156
Mischief and Mayhem (Aloxe-Corton): 896, 903
Mistral, Frédéric: 609
Mistral winds: 592
Mobile phones: 1141–1143. See also Apps
Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Nice): 720, 733
Modern-Art Museum (Céret): 577
Moët et Chandon (Epernay): 1069
Monaco: 704, 773–785; eating, 784; helpful hints, 778; map, 776–777; self-guided walk, 779–782; sight/activities, 779–783; sleeping, 783–784; tourist information, 775; transportation, 775, 778, 779, 784–785
Monaco Cathedral: 781
Monaco Grand Prix: 705, 736, 773, 778, 780, 1172
Monaco Philharmonic Orchestra: 778
Monaco-Ville: 774, 779–782, 783–784
Mona Lisa (da Vinci): 85–86
Monastère St. Paul de Mausole (St-Rémy): 661–663
Monet, Claude: 93, 112, 239–241, 245, 249, 254, 959, 995, 1093; Gardens ahd House (Giverny), 216, 218–220; gravesite, in Giverny, 220; Marmottan Museum (Paris), 57, 103–104; Orangerie Museum (Paris), 56, 95–96
Money: 1100–1105; average daily expenses, 25; budgeting, 25
Money-saving tips: 25–26, 1099–1100; Lyon, 939; Paris, 150; Riviera, 704–705; sleeping, 1108–1109; Strasbourg, 1031
Mont-Alban Fort: 758–759
Monte Carlo: See Monaco
Monte Carlo Ballet: 778
Monte Carlo Casino: 782–783
Montée de la Grande Côte (Lyon): 960–961
Montenvers: 833, 840–842, 846–847
Montignac: 506–508; market, 460
Montmartre (Paris): 36, 57, 123–126; eating, 168; map, 124
Montmartre Museum (Paris): 126
Montparnasse Tower (Paris): 108–109
Mont Rouge: 695
Mont St-Michel: 228, 318–336; eating, 334–335; helpful hints, 322–324; maps, 319, 321, 323; sights/activities, 324–331; sleeping, 331–333; tourist information, 319–320; transportation, 320–322, 335–336
Mont St-Michel Abbey: 326–331
Mont St-Michel Ramparts: 331
Montsec Monument (St-Mihiel): 1082–1083
Monument to the Dying Lion (Verdun): 1078
Morey-St-Denis: 906
Morrison, Jim: 122
Mortemart: 513
Mountaineering Center (Chamonix): 856
Moutarderie Fallot (Beaune): 881–882
Movies, recommended: 1176–1178
Moyenne Corniche: 762–764
Mumm (Reims): 1062
Musée Alpin (Chamonix): 855
Musée Angladon (Avignon): 638
Musée Animé du Vin (Chinon): 432
Musée Archéologique: See Archaeological museums
Musée Calvet (Avignon): 638
Musée Carnavalet (Paris): 119
Musée-Château d’Annecy: 815
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Orange): 669
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Baron Gérard (Bayeux): 274–275
Musée d’Art et Histoire du Judaïsme (Paris): 120–121
Musée d’Art Moderne de Céret: 577
Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice): 720, 733
Musée de la Reddition (Reims): 1053, 1060–1061
Musée de l’Armée (Paris): 56, 101–102
Musée de l’Hôtel de Ville (Amboise): 385
Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris): 56, 95–96
Musée de Montmartre (Paris): 126
Musée Départemental Arles Antiques: 611–613
Musée des Beaux-Arts: Lyon, 944, 958–959; Nice, 733; Paris, 112–113; Rouen, 244–245; Strasbourg, 1037
Musée des Confluences (Lyon): 961
Musée des Cristaux (Chamonix): 856
Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art Populaire Normand (Honfleur): 258–259
Musée d’Histoire et d’Archéologie (Antibes): 793, 794
Musée d’Orsay (Paris): 56, 88–95; map, 89
Musée du Débarquement (Arromanches): 291
Musée du Débarquement (Utah Beach): 309–310
Musée du Louvre (Paris): 56, 79–88; map, 82
Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon): 631–632
Musée du Vin de Bourgogne (Beaune): 881
Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 638
Musée Le Carroi (Chinon): 433
Musée le Secq des Tournelles (Rouen): 245
Musée Lumière (Lyon): 944, 963
Musée Marmottan Monet (Paris): 57, 103–104
Musée Masséna (Nice): 734
Musée Matisse (Nice): 720, 732–733
Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Normandie (Bayeux): 275
Musée Mémorial d’Omaha Beach: 300–301
Musée National d’Art Moderne (Paris): 121–122
Musée National de Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 497, 500–501
Musée National du Moyen Age (Paris): 57, 104
Musée National March Chagall (Nice): 720, 730–732
Musée Océanographique (Monaco): 781–782
Musée Picasso (Antibes): 793–794
Musée Picasso (Paris): 57, 119–120
Musée Réattu (Arles): 611
Musée Rodin (Paris): 57, 102–103
Musées des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs (Lyon): 959
Musées Gadagne (Lyon): 956–957
Musée Toulouse-Lautrec (Albi): 539–542
Musée Yves Brayer (Les Baux): 658
Museon Arlaten (Arles): 610
MuséoParc Alésia (Alise-Ste-Reine): 908–909
Museums: sightseeing tips, 1106–1107. See also specific museums
Museum of Ceramics (Rouen): 245
Museum of Decorative Arts (Strasbourg): 1037
Museum of Ethnography (Honfleur): 258–259
Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 220
Museum of Ironworks (Rouen): 245
Museum of Santons (Les Baux): 658–659
Museum of the Sea (Honfleur): 259
Museum of the Surrender (Reims): 1053, 1060–1061
Museum of the Wine of Burgundy (Beaune): 881
Museum Pass (Paris): 58–60, 61
Museums of Textiles and Decorative Arts (Lyon): 959
Mushroom caves: 450–451
Mustard Mill (Beaune): 881–882
Nançon River: 368
Napoleon Bonaparte: 86, 111, 198, 202, 763, 933, 1090–1091, 1093; Tomb (Paris), 56, 101–102
Narbonne Gate (Carcassonne): 553, 559
Narrow-gauge train, in Nice: 735
National Guard Memorial (Omaha Beach): 303–304
National Museum of Prehistory (Les Eyzies): 497, 500–501
National Stud Farm (Cluny): 933
Nazelles-Négron: sleeping, 397
Nice: 704, 713–751; at a glance, 720; arrival in, 716; eating, 741–748; helpful hints, 716–717; as home base, 702; maps, 714–715, 738, 742–743, 746, 754–755; nightlife, 735–736; self-guided walk, 721–730; sights/activities, 730–735; sleeping, 736–741; tourist information, 713; tours, 719–721; transportation, 716, 718–719, 748–751
Nice Airport: 750–751; sleeping near, 748
Nice Archaeological Museum: 733
Nice Fine Arts Museum: 733
Nice Jazz Festival: 1172
Nice Modern and Contemporary Art Museum: 720, 733
Nice Opera House: 727
Normandy: 12, 225–336; at a glance, 228; cuisine, 229, 230, 334; map, 226–227; planning tips, 225–227; tours, 229; transportation, 227–228. See also D-Day beaches
Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 297–299
Normandy Bridge: 260
Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 275
Norman Popular Arts (Honfleur): 258–259
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Chartres): 205, 207–213; map, 211
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Paris): 56, 64–69, 71–72, 132; fire of 2019 and rebuilding, 66–67; map, 65; virtual tour of interior, 68
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Reims): 1053–1057
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Rouen): 234, 239–242; light show, 234–235
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Strasbourg): 1035–1037, 1040
Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Lyon): 944, 948–950
Notre-Dame de Grâce Chapel (Honfleur): 259
Notre-Dame de l’Annonciation (Nice): 728
Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral (Vaison): 676–677
Notre-Dame des Anges (Collioure): 574
Notre-Dame des Anges (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 692
Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey: 698–699
Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 943, 950, 1172
Nuits-St-Georges: 904
Nyons: market, 593
Oceanography Museum (Monaco): 781–782
Ochre Cliffs Trail (Roussillon): 695
Ochre Conservatory (Roussillon): 695
Old Lyon: See Vieux Lyon
Old Market Hall (Colmar): 986–987
Old Nice: See Vieux Nice
Old Town (Colmar): 984–991; eating, 1001–1002; map, 985
Omaha Beach: 294–308; maps, 282–283, 295; sleeping near, 307–308
Omaha Beach Beachfront Drive: 303
Omaha Beach Focal Point: 302
Omaha Beach Memorial Museum: 300–301
Omaha Beach Memorial Statues: 302
Opera: Lyon, 950; Nice, 727; Paris, 57, 115–117, 131–132
Opéra Bastille (Paris): 131
Opéra Exhibit (Paris): 91
Opéra Garnier (Paris): 57, 115–117, 131–132
Opéra neighborhood (Paris): 35–36, 115–118; map, 115
Oppède-le-Vieux: 699
Oradour-sur-Glane: 453, 511–513
Orange: 585, 665–670; map, 667
Orange City Hall: 670
Orangerie Museum (Paris): 56, 95–96
Orange Roman Theater: 666–669
Orches: 900–901
Orly Airport (Paris): 174–175; sleeping, 149
Orsay Museum (Paris): 56, 88–95; map, 89
Our Lady of Rocamadour: 521, 523–524
Overlord Museum (Omaha Beach): 299–300
Packing tips and checklist: 28, 1181
Padirac Cave: 524–525
Palace of Justice (Rouen): 239
Palace of the Popes (Avignon): 631, 633–635
Palace Square (Avignon): 631
Palace Square (Monaco): 779–780
Palais de Justice (Paris): 76, 239
Palais de la Méditerranée (Nice): 723
Palais de l’Isle (Annecy): 814, 815
Palais des Papes (Avignon): 631, 633–635
Palais du Tau (Reims): 1057–1059
Palais Jacques Cœur (Bourges): 927
Palais Jean de Bourbon (Cluny): 933
Palais Lascaris (Nice): 729
Palais Princier (Monaco): 780–781
Palais Rohan (Strasbourg): 1037
Palais Royal (Paris): 88
Panthéon (Paris): 57, 105, 108; eating near, 168
Parc de la Bouzaize (Beaune): 882
Parc de la Tête d’Or (Lyon): 944
Parc de Loisirs des Planards (Chamonix): 845, 853
Parc de Merlet (Chamonix): 845
Paris: 12, 33–184; at a glance, 56–57; arrondisements, 34–36; eating, 150–169; entertainment, 129–132; excursion areas, 185–224; helpful hints, 36–39; money-saving tips, 58–60, 150; nightlife, 129–134; orientation, 34–36; planning tips, 33–34; self-guided walks, 61–79, 110–111, 132–133; shopping, 117–118, 126–129; sights, 79–126; sightseeing strategies, 38, 58–60; sleeping, 134–149; tourist information, 36; tours, 49–55, 58, 132–134; transportation, 39–49, 169–184. See also specific neighborhoods
Paris Archaeological Crypt: 61
Paris Catacombs: 109–110
Paris Métro: See Métro
Paris Museum of Fine Arts: 112–113
Paris Sewer Museum: 100–101
Park Couttet (Chamonix): 835
Parthenon Friezes: 84
Passage de l’Argue (Lyon): 960
Path of Fauvism (Collioure): 574
Patriarche Père et Fils (Beaune): 884
Pedestrian safety, in Paris: 37
Penitents Chapel (Les Baux): 658
Père Lachaise Cemetery (Paris): 57, 122–123
Périgord-Aventure et Loisirs: 478
Perreux Château: 396
Petit Balcon Sud (Alps): 851–852
Petite France (Strasbourg): 1039, 1040, 1042
Petite Venise (Colmar): 987, 999; eating, 1002
Petit Palais (Paris): 112–113
Petit Palais Museum (Avignon): 631–632
Petit Thouars Château (Chinon): 435
Petit train (tourist trains): Albi, 536; Amboise, 381; Avignon, 627, 630; Bayeux, 270; Beaune, 872–873; Carcassonne, 552; Collioure, 572; Colmar, 983; Dinan, 344; Eguisheim, 1014; Honfleur, 253; Nice, 719; Paris, 52; Riquewihr, 1027; Rocamadour, 520; Strasbourg, 1034; Vaison-la-Romaine, 674; Versailles, 200
Peyrepertuse Château: 567–568
Pfister House (Colmar): 989
Philip the Fair Tower (Villeneuve): 639
Phones: 1141–1143
Picasso, Pablo: 95, 122, 577, 959, 995; Museum (Antibes), 793–794; Museum (Paris), 57, 119–120
Pickpockets: See Theft alerts
Picnics: 1123–1127; vocabulary, 1124. See also Markets
Pigalle (Paris): 126
Piscine du Centre Sportif Richard Bozon (Chamonix): 845
Place Albert I (Antibes): 786
Place Balmat (Chamonix): 834–835
Place Benjamin Zix (Strasbourg): 1039
Place Billard (Chartres): 206
Place Charles de Gaulle (Bayeux): 273–274
Place Dauphine (Paris): 78
Place de la Bastille (Paris): 131; eating, 161–162
Place de la Cathédrale (Strasbourg): 1034–1035
Place de la Liberté (Sarlat): 465
Place de la Madeleine (Paris): 117–118, 128
Place de la Mairie (Roussillon): 695
Place de l’Ancienne Douane (Colmar): 985–986
Place de la République (Arles): 604–605
Place de l’Horloge (Avignon): 630–631
Place de l’Opéra (Paris): 129
Place de République (St-Rémy): 661
Place des Capucins (Lyon): 961
Place des Celestins (Lyon): 964–965
Place des Châtaignes (Avignon): 635–636; eating, 646
Place des Corps-Saints (Avignon): 646
Place des Merciers (Dinan): 346
Place des Oies (Sarlat): 467–468
Place des Terreaux (Lyon): 957–958, 961
Place des Vosges (Paris): 118–119; eating, 157, 160; sleeping, 144–146
Place Drouet d’Erlon (Reims): 1052–1053, 1070
Place du Centenaire (Eze): 771
Place du Change (Lyon): 957
Place du Châteaux Saint-Léon (Eguisheim): 1015
Place du Dr. Pierre Walter (Bergheim): 1029–1030
Place du Forum (Arles): 608–610; eating, 621–622
Place du Forum (Reims): 1053, 1059–1060; eating, 1070
Place du Général de Gaulle (Chinon): 432
Place du Grand Puits (Carcassonne): 557
Place du Guesclin (Dinan): 343–345
Place du Marché Notre-Dame (Versailles): 203–204, 205
Place du Marché Ste. Catherine (Paris), eating: 162
Place du Mont Blanc (Chamonix): market, 830
Place du Palais (Avignon): 631
Place du Palais (Monaco): 779–780
Place du Peyrou (Sarlat): 464–465
Place du Tertre (Paris): 125
Place du Trocadéro (Paris): 100, 132
Place du Vieux Marché (Rouen): 235
Place Général Leclerc (Collioure): 572
Place Jeanne d’Arc (Chinon): 429
Place Lamartine (Arles): 599–600
Place Louis Lépine (Paris): 77
Place Louis XII (Blois): 411
Place Madeleine (Beaune), eating: 890
Place Masséna (Nice): 713, 725–726; eating, 747
Place Michel Debré (Amboise): 386
Place Nautique (Lyon): 961
Place Neuve St. Jean (Lyon): 956
Place Notre-Dame (Annecy): 815
Place Pie (Avignon): 646–647
Place Rossetti (Nice): 729–730
Place Ste. Cécile (Albi): 536
Place St. Marc (Rouen): 244
Place St. Marc (Rouen), market: 234, 244
Place St. Michel (Paris): 73
Place St. André-des-Arts (Paris): 73
Place St. Jean (Carcassonne): 557, 564
Place St. Patrice (Bayeux): 267
Place Vendôme (Paris): 118, 129
Place Voltaire (Arles): 601–602
Plage d’Albigny (Annecy): 817
Plage de la Gravette (Antibes): 791, 793–794
Plage de la Paloma (Cap Ferrat): 767–768, 769
Plage de la Salis (Antibes): 795
Plage de Passable (Cap Ferrat): 767
Plage de Port d’Avall (Collioure): 575
Plage d’Imperial (Annecy): 816–817
Plage Municipal de Sevrier (Annecy): 817
Plage St. Vincent (Collioure): 575
Plague Cemetery (Rouen): 243–244
Plan de l’Aiguille (Alps): 833, 840, 841, 846, 860
Planpraz (Alps): 833, 843–844, 847
Pléhérel-Plage: 365–366
Ploubalay: 363–364
Poilâne (Paris): 129
Pointe du Chevet: 364
Pointe du Grouin: 367
Pointe du Hoc: 304–306
Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument: 304
Pôle International de la Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 497, 500
Pommard: 892–893
Pompidou Center (Paris): 57, 121–122; sleeping near, 146–147
Pont au Double (Paris): 72
Pont Bonaparte (Lyon): 942, 947–948, 961
Pont d’Avignon (pont St. Bénezet): 633
Pont de Normandie: 260
Pont des Arts (Paris): 78
Pont de Tancarville: 247
Pont du Corbeau (Strasbourg): 1038
Pont du Gard: 585, 649–653; map, 650
Pont du Gard Museum: 651–652
Pont Julien: 700–701
Pont Morens (Annecy): 814
Pont Neuf (Paris): 78
Pontorson: 334, 335; sleeping, 334
Pont Tournelle (Paris): 69
Pont Valentré (Cahors): 528–529
Pont Vieux (Albi): 542
Pont Vieux (Carcassonne): 548, 559
Population: 1085
Port de Lyvet: 350
Porte d’Aude (Carcassonne): 559
Porte de Dinan (St-Malo): 359–360
Porte de Mars (Reims): 1053, 1060
Porte des Champs Vauverts (St-Malo): 359
Port-en-Bessin: 296–297
Porte Sainte Anne (Fougères): 368
Porte St. Pierre (St-Malo): 359
Porte St. Thomas (St-Malo): 358
Port Winston Artificial Harbor (Arromanches): 289–290
Post offices: 1143–1144; Monaco, 778, 782. See also specific destinations
Pouilly-en-Auxois: 915
Prehistoric caves: See Cro-Magnon caves
Prehistory Welcome Center (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac): 497, 500
Presqu’île (Lyon): 939, 957–960; eating, 959–960; map, 968–969; nightlife, 964; sleeping, 965
Prince’s Palace (Monaco): 780–781
Printemps de Bourges: 924
Promenade des Anglais (Nice): 713, 720, 721–725, 735; eating, 747–748; map, 714–715; sleeping, 739–740
Promenade du Moulinet (Dinard): 361
Promenade du Paillon (Nice): 726
Pronunciation guide: 1182–1186
Provence: 12, 14, 583–688; at a glance, 585; cuisine, 591–592; maps, 584, 586; market days, 593; planning tips, 583–585; tours, 587–588; transportation, 585–586. See also specific destinations
Puppets of the World Museum (Lyon): 957
Puycelsi: 545–547
Puymin: 674–675
Quai de l’Horloge (Paris): 78
Quai de l’Horloge (Paris): 78
Quai des Etats-Unis (Nice): 724
Quartier Latin (Paris): See Latin Quarter
Quéribus: 568