11

PLANNING your trip To the maine coast

This chapter provides the nuts-and-bolts travel information you’ll need before setting off for coastal Maine. Browse through this section before hitting the road to ensure you’ve touched all the bases.

Arriving

BY PLANE

Several commercial carriers serve the coast of Maine, though airlines commonly connect to Maine’s airports after stops in New York or Boston; direct connections from other cities, such as Chicago and Philadelphia, are available. Remember that some scheduled flights to Maine from Boston are aboard small propeller-driven (“prop”) planes; ask the airline or your travel agent if this is an issue for you.

Portland International Jetport (airport code PWM), is the largest airport in Maine. It’s served by flights from American Airlines (www.aa.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/433-7300), Delta (www.delta.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/221-1212), Elite Airways (www.eliteairways.net; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/393-2510), JetBlue (www.jetblue.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/538-2583), Southwest Airlines (www.southwest.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/435-9792), and United Express (www.united.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/864-8331). The airport got a significant expansion in 2011, and there are plans in place for further upgrades in 2018. For general airport information, see the airport’s website, www.portlandjetport.org, or call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/874-8877.

Some savvy visitors to northern New England find cheaper fares and a wider choice of flight times by flying into Boston’s Logan Airport (code: BOS), then renting a car to drive north (or taking a connecting bus or train). Boston is about 2 hours by car from Portland, and 5 hours from Bar Harbor. Almost every major airline in the U.S. (and many others worldwide) flies into Boston daily, so the fare competition can result in a better ticket price. Note that Boston’s airport can become congested, especially at check-in and security; delayed flights are common; and traffic can snarl. But the fare savings can be large.

   

Beating the I-95 Blues

From Memorial Day through Labor Day, sometimes longer, I-95 from Boston to Maine becomes sluggish (even stopped-to-a-standstill) on Friday afternoons and evenings as weekend traffic backs up at the toll gates for miles. Sunday nights bring a reverse-repeat of this scene. It might sound comical that you could be stuck in gridlock in a tidal flat in the middle of nowhere; trust me, it’s not nearly so funny once you’re ensnared in it. U.S. Route 1 along the coast seems like an escape route—but it’s not. Instead, it bottlenecks at the same times of day and week, especially in spots where two-lane bridges span the local tidal rivers. There’s really no cure for this condition; you can, however, do a few things to prevent getting stuck. Try to stay put on weekends and during the big summer holidays—travel midweek or midday instead, if at all possible. Or simply take an extra day off work and head back after the holiday crush. It’ll pay handsome dividends in lowered blood pressure—and you’ll save a few hours you would have wasted idling your engine going nowhere.

When researching fares, also check flights going into Manchester Airport (airport code: MHT) in New Hampshire, a regional hub for Southwest Airlines (see above). The airport is less than 2 hours from Portland by car (1 hour to York or Kittery), and you can sometimes find deep discounts on routes from Southwest hub cities such as Chicago, Dallas, Orlando, Los Angeles, or Houston that don’t already have direct flights to Portland.

Travelers to Downeast Maine might check on rates to the Saint John, New Brunswick (airport code: YSJ) airport, about 2 hours from Eastport by car—just remember to budget additional time for the border crossing.

Finally, if you need a quick connection directly to Midcoast Maine, check with the regional airline Cape Air (www.capeair.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 866/227-3247 or 508/771-6944), which operates three to six daily flights from Boston to the Knox County Regional Airport in the Camden-Rockland region, using small nine-seat twin-engine business jets. If you book well ahead, an off-peak round-trip fare from Boston can cost as little as $85 per person. Cape Air can also get you from Boston to the Hancock County-Bar Harbor airport in Trenton, just across the causeway from Mount Desert Island, as can PenAir (www.penair.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/448-4226). Elite Airways (see above) runs flights to Bar Harbor from the New York City area’s Newark airport in New Jersey.

BY CAR

From Boston, New York, and points farther beyond, the interstate highway I-95 is by far the quickest way to get to the coast of Maine. Note that I-95 is a toll road for stretches through New Hampshire, as well as in stretches of Maine, where I-95 is called the Maine Turnpike. To reach Portland, exit the Turnpike at Exit 44 and follow I-295 (a free highway) into the city. To get to the Midcoast or Downeast Maine, continue north to Exit 52 and take the Falmouth Spur to connect with coastal U.S. Route 1 North.

Note: From New York City, I-95 can sometimes be congested for much of its length, particularly on summer weekends. It’s often quicker to take I-91 north from New Haven, Connecticut, cut north on I-84 toward Boston, and circumvent Beantown via I-495 north, which joins I-95 near Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

Road maps can sometimes be deceptive—keep in mind that Maine is much bigger than it looks on a one-page road map. Budget accordingly for drive time. I have noted driving distances or driving times in this book wherever possible, but a good rule of thumb to follow is that 50 miles of rural driving takes about 1 hour if there’s little traffic. In summer, passing through a string of busy towns, it might take up to twice that long.

BY TRAIN

Train service to coastal Maine is very limited, but it does exist. Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/872-7245) re-launched rail service to Maine in late 2001, restoring a line that had been idle since the 1960s. In 2012, service was extended from Portland to Brunswick. Amtrak’s Downeaster service operates four to five times daily between Boston’s North Station and Portland. If you’re coming from elsewhere on the East Coast, you will need to change train stations in Boston—a slightly frustrating exercise requiring either a taxi ride through congested streets or a ride and transfer on Boston’s aging subway system. The train stops in Wells, Saco, and Old Orchard Beach before arriving in Portland, then on to Freeport and Brunswick.

Total travel time is about 212 hours from Boston to Portland. Bikes can be loaded or off-loaded at Boston, Portland, and Brunswick. The one-way fare from Boston to Portland is $20–$34 (with a discount for same-day round-trips). The line has its own website, located at www.amtrakdowneaster.com, with fares, schedules, and other useful information.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15, 30, or 45 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]). The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional passes are also available.

BY BUS

Express bus service is well run, but spotty, in coastal Maine. You’ll be able to reach the major cities and tourist destinations, but only a few of the smaller towns or villages. Tickets from Boston to Portland usually cost between $15 and $30 per person, one-way, depending on such factors as day of week, time of day, and how far in advance you purchase the tickets. Taking the bus requires no advance planning or reservations, but in summer it’s still a good idea to buy as early as possible; often you can also save money this way. Two major bus lines serve coastal Maine from Boston and New York City. Greyhound (www.greyound.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/231-2222) serves Portsmouth, New Hampshire; Portland; Bangor; and points in between with frequent departures from Boston’s South Station or New York’s Port Authority. Concord Coach Lines (www.concordcoachlines.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/639-3317 or 603/228-3300) serves Portsmouth, New Hampshire; Portland; and Bangor from Boston, and it also connects a few key smaller towns such as Belfast, Camden, Rockport, Brunswick, and Damariscotta. Sadly, neither line goes anymore to Bar Harbor.

BEWARE: MOOSE x-ing

Driving across the northern tier of Maine, you’ll often see MOOSE CROSSING signs, complete with silhouettes of the gangly herbivores. These are not placed here to amuse the tourists. In Maine, the state with the most moose (an estimated 30,000, at last count), crashes between moose and cars are increasingly common.

These encounters are usually more dramatic than deer-car collisions. For starters, the large eyes of moose don’t reflect in headlights like those of deer, so you often come upon them with less warning when driving late at night. Also, moose can weigh up to 1,000 pounds, with almost all of that weight placed high atop spindly legs—when a car strikes a moose broadside in the road, it usually knocks the legs out and sends a half-ton of hapless beast right through the windshield. Need we dwell on the results of such an encounter? I thought not. In 1998 alone, the state of Maine recorded 859 crashes involving moose, with 247 injuries and five fatalities. When in moose country, drive slowly and carefully.

Getting Around

Maine is like much of the rest of America: A set of small cities and suburbs, strung together by transportation corridors, with a whole bunch of small towns and rural areas filling in the rest of the map. Bus, train, and regional plane services are sporadic at best. This all means you will almost certainly need to travel by car (yours, or one you have rented) if you really want to see the coast of Maine in any detail.

BY CAR

Mark my words: You’ll need a car. Portland’s airport (see p. 84) has plenty of rental options, from all the multi-national rental agencies.

Traffic in Maine is generally light compared with that in urban and suburban areas of the East Coast, but the Maine Turnpike and U.S. Route 1 can get heavily congested, especially when entering Maine on a summer Friday evening or departing it on a Sunday night. Expect delays at peak times, and try to travel off-peak if possible.

North-south travel is fairly straightforward in Maine, thanks to I-95 and Route 1. Don’t underestimate the length of the Maine coast, though—from Kittery to Eastport (the easternmost city in the United States) is 293 miles, much of it winding slowly through coastal villages or sitting at stoplights. Driving times can be longer than you’d expect due to narrow roads and zigzagging peninsulas.

Here are some representative distances between points:

NEW YORK CITY TO

Bar Harbor, Maine

493 miles

Portland, Maine

319 miles

PORTLAND, MAINE, TO

Eastport, Maine

250 miles

Bar Harbor, Maine

174 miles

Camden, Maine

85 miles

York, Maine

45 miles

Kennebunk, Maine

27 miles

Manchester, New Hampshire

95 miles

North Conway, New Hampshire

65 miles

Burlington, Vermont

232 miles

BY BUS

As I have already mentioned, express bus service into the region is pretty good, but there is really no non-car means of traveling within. Quirky schedules and routes may send you well out of your way, and what may seem like a simple trip could take hours. Traveling north-south between towns along a single bus route (for example, Portland to Bangor) is feasible, but east-west travel across Maine is, by and large, impractical. For information on bus travel within Maine, contact either Greyhound or Concord Coach Lines (see p. 289).

BY PLANE

Service between airports in Maine is sketchy at best. You can find limited direct flights between some cities (such as Portland to Bangor), but for the most part, you’ll have to backtrack to Boston and fly out again to your final destination. Convenient, it’s not. See p. 286 for details

BY TRAIN

Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/872-7245) provides limited rail travel on the southernmost coast of Maine (see p. 288 for details). There is talk here and there of expanding passenger rail lines west to Lewiston and beyond, to Montreal, but I wouldn’t start planning a trip around it anytime soon.

What Things Will Cost

exchange rates

US$

Can$

UK£

Euro (€)

Aus$

NZ$

1

C$1.32

£.79

€.95

A$1.30

NZ$1.40

 

Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website, such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic, to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Costs

Here’s a scene I’ve seen repeated dozens of times in Maine. It’s late Saturday afternoon, maybe early in July. A young (or not-so-young) couple has driven up from the city by car or motorcycle, “just for the day,” in sparkling clear weather. But something magical has happened. They’ve fallen in love with each other all over again, and with the quaint lovely Maine-ness of (insert town here). They’ve decided to stay for the night in a feather bed, eat a nice meal, and maybe watch the sun set over the (ocean/mountains/lake) and have a beer, and head home tomorrow morning fully assured that all is right with the world.

Except that here they stand, before a tourist information center staff member, looking despondent (or even desperate) as the staffer holds a phone in one hand, waiting for an answer.

what things cost on the maine coast

us$

Taxi from Portland airport to downtown Portland

25 + tip

Double room, moderate

130

Double room, inexpensive

85

Three-course dinner for one, moderate, no wine

25–35

Bottle of domestic beer

2

Bottle of Coca-Cola

1.29

Cup of coffee

2–3

1 gallon of gas

2.35

Admission to Ogunquit Museum of American Art

9–10 per person

Admission to Acadia National Park, May–Oct

12–25 per vehicle

Admission to Acadia National Park, Nov–Apr

Free

“Isn’t there anything cheaper?” pleads one of the lovebirds. “No, and that’s a good price,” responds the person behind the desk as kindly as possible. “You won’t find anything better. Now, do you want me to book it, or not?”

Yes, travelers are in for a little sticker shock on the coast of Maine, at least during peak travel seasons. In midsummer, there’s simply no such thing as a cheap motel room in places such as Portland, Camden, or Bar Harbor. Even no-frills mom-and-pop motels can and do sometimes happily charge $100 a night or more for a bed that could fairly be described as a notch above car-camping. Blander-than-bland chain hotels demand even more.

To be fair, innkeepers in some of these tourist areas must reap nearly all their annual profits in what amounts to just a 2- or 3-month season each year, so that’s one reason for the approaching-bank-stickup rates. It’s not like they enjoy your misery (I don’t think).

Anyhow, take heart. Outside of peak foliage season and holidays, the cost of rooms, meals, and day-to-day expenses is generally a lot less here than you’d pay in a major non-New England city. You can find excellent entrees at upscale, creative restaurants for around $20, comparing favorably with similar dishes at big-city restaurants that would top $30.

Still, lodging here is more expensive than in almost any other rural part of the United States, and planning can prove tricky for budget travelers.

It’s highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have one to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

When To Go

The well-worn joke about the climate in coastal Maine is that it has just two seasons: winter and August. There’s a kernel of truth in this, but it’s also probably a ploy to keep outsiders from moving here. In fact, the ever-shifting seasons make Maine distinctive, and with one exception, the seasons are well defined.

SUMMER   The peak summer season runs from July 4th to Labor Day (although increasingly, businesses report that summer traffic lasts solidly until the end of September). Vast crowds surge up the Maine coast during and between the two holiday weekends, swelling traffic on the turnpike and Route 1, and causing countless motels and inns to hang “No Vacancy” signs. Expect to pay premium prices at hotels and restaurants along the coast in midseason. This should be no surprise: Summers are exquisite, in spite of the occasional stretches of fog or rain. (In Portland it tops 90°F/32°C only 4 or 5 days a year, on average.)

Maine’s coastal weather is largely determined by whatever breezes are prevailing. Southerly winds bring haze, heat, humidity, fog (thick fogs occasionally linger for days), and even thunderstorms. Northwesterly winds bring cool weather and knife-sharp vistas. (Northeasters bring wind and storms, though these are rare in summer.) These systems tend to alternate during summer, with the heat arriving stealthily and slowly, then getting exiled by stiff, cool winds a few days later. Along the immediate coast it’s often warmest in the late morning; sea breezes typically kick up around lunchtime, pushing temperatures back down for the rest of the afternoons. Rain is rarely far away—some days it’s an afternoon thunderstorm, sometimes it’s a steady drizzle that brings a 4-day soaking. On average, about 1 day in 3 will bring at least a little rain. Travelers should come prepared for some.

Also be aware that early summer brings out black flies and mosquitoes in multitudes, a state of affairs that has ruined many a camping and hiking trip. While this is especially true inland, it applies along the coastline and on islands as well. Outdoors enthusiasts are best advised to wait until July 4 or later for long camping-out adventures unless they want to end up resembling human pincushions.

AUTUMN   Fall is to Maine what the Grand Canyon is to the Southwest: It’s one of the great natural spectacles of the place. The rolling hills become saturated in brilliant reds and stunning oranges (every year’s foliage is different); the season is almost garish. Even hardened locals still get dewy-eyed at the sight of the annual colors year after year.

Don’t be surprised if you sense fall approaching as early as mid-August, when a first few leaves turn orange on the maples at the edges of wetlands. Fall comes early to Maine, puts its feet up on the couch, and hangs around for some time. The foliage season begins in earnest in the northern part of the region by the third week in September; in the south, it reaches its peak around mid-October. Happily, thanks to Maine’s low elevation and the moderating influences of ocean temperatures along the coast, foliage season tends to run longer along the coast than it does inland; sometimes the tart colors even linger into the first few days of November.

Keep in mind that this is also a hugely popular time of year for other travelers, however—bus tours flock like migrating geese to all parts of New England in early October. As a result, hotels are often booked solid, and advance reservations are essential. Don’t be surprised if you’re assessed a foliage surcharge of $10 to $50 per night at some inns. Pay it and be glad you’re here.

Maine maintains a recorded foliage hot line and website to let you know where and when the leaves are at their brightest peaks. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 888/624-6345 for the latest updates, or log onto the state’s foliage website at www.mainefoliage.com.

WINTER   Maine winters are like wine; some years are good, some are lousy. During a good season, mounds of light, fluffy snow blanket the deep woods and fill the ski slopes. The muffling qualities of fresh snow bring a great silence to the region, and the hiss and pop of a wood fire at a country inn can sound like a heavenly symphony. During these winters, exploring the powdery forest floors on snowshoes or cross-country skis is an experience bordering on the magical.

AN ONLINE TRAVELER’S toolbox

Savvy travelers know that it’s a great idea to use online resources when planning a trip to the coast of Maine. Here are a few websites I keep bookmarked:

www.pressherald.com

Portland Press Herald, Maine’s largest newspaper

www.maine.gov

Maine state government website

www.nps.gov/acad

Acadia National Park

www.visitmaine.com

During those other winters, though (the lousy ones), the weather gods bring a nasty melange of rain, freezing rain, and sleet. The woods become filled with dirty crusty snow; the sky seems perpetually cottony and bleak. In 1998, a destructive ice storm wreaked so much havoc on the woods that you can still see evidence (fallen trees) today. During times like this, even the stoutest residents wish they’d been born in the Caribbean.

Beach towns such as York Beach and Ogunquit and tourist destinations such as Boothbay Harbor shut down almost entirely and become almost depressing in winter. Skip those. Winter visitors are better off heading for places with more substantial year-round communities and a good selection of year-round lodging and cultural attractions, such as the Kennebunks, Portland, and Bar Harbor. (A foray inland to Baxter State Park is also a fine idea in a cold clear winter; see p. 262.)

SPRING   Maine’s spring seemingly lasts only a weekend or so, often around mid-May but sometimes as late as June. One day the ground is muddy, the trees barren, and gritty snow is still collected in shady hollows. The next day it’s in the 70s or 80s, trees are blooming, and kids are jumping off docks into the ocean.

Travelers need to be alert if they want to experience spring in Maine; it’s also known as “mud season” in these parts, and many innkeepers and restaurateurs actually close up shop for a few weeks for repairs or to venture someplace a lot more cheery. Yet April and May can offer superb days when a blue sky arches overhead and it’s warm in the sun. This might be the most peaceful time of year—a good time for taking solitary walks on the beach or sitting on rocky promontories with only seagulls for company. And here’s another secret: Maine hotel rooms are never cheaper than they are in springtime. Just be aware that as soon as that sun slips behind a cloud, it’ll feel like winter again; don’t leave the parka or gloves far behind.

Portland’s Average Monthly Temperatures

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

Avg. High

(°F)

31

35

42

53

64

73

79

78

70

59

48

37

(°C)

-1

2

6

12

18

23

26

26

21

15

9

3

Avg. Low

(°F)

13

17

25

35

44

54

59

58

50

39

31

20

(°C)

-11

-8

-4

2

7

12

15

14

10

4

-1

-7

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans’ Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2020).

Beyond this, civic festivals are a mainstay of Maine’s little towns, each one clamoring to stake its claim to some obscure aspect of Maine life and culture, and its hard to keep up with all the Whoopie Pie festivals (in Dover-Foxcroft in June), Potato Blossom festivals (in Fort Fairfield in July), and Moxie festivals (also July, in Lisbon). Maine Office of Tourism maintains a pretty comprehensive and searchable calendar at www.visitmaine.com/events. In the late summer and early fall, various small-town and county agricultural fairs present a classic slice of rural Americana—midways, tractor pulls, livestock exhibits, and so on. The Blue Hill Fair in early August and the Fryeburg Fair in early October are the best of these. Check www.mainefairs.org for a list.

JANUARY

New Year’s Portland. Ring in the New Year with a smorgasbord of events and entertainment throughout downtown Portland. Events for families are scheduled in the afternoon; adult entertainment, including loads of live music, kicks off later in the evening. One admission price buys entrance to all events. December 31 and January 1.

FEBRUARY

U.S. National Toboggan Championships, Camden. A raucous and lively athletic event where being overweight is an advantage. Held at the Camden Snow Bowl’s toboggan chute (www.camdensnowbowl.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/236-3438). Early February.

MARCH

Maine Boatbuilders’ Show, Portland. More than 200 exhibitors and 9,000 boat aficionados gather as winter fades to make plans for the coming summer. A great place to meet boat builders and get ideas for your dream craft (www.portlandcompany.com/boatshow; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/774-1067). Mid-March.

Maine Maple Sunday. Maple sugarhouses throughout the state open their doors to visitors (www.mainemapleproducers.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/287-3491). Fourth Sunday in March.

APRIL

Ogunquit Patriot’s Day Festival. Commemorating the 1775 Battle of Lexington and Concord, Ogunquit’s celebration is all about fife and drum bands, colonial-themed games and races, historical reenactments, and the like. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/646-2939. Weekend of the 3rd Monday in April.

MAY

All Roads Music Festival, Belfast. Dozens of Maine bands and performers converge on every available venue in Belfast for a full-day of concerts, panels, and special collaborations (www.allroadsmusicfest.org; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/370-9197). Late May.

JUNE

Old Port Festival, Portland. A block party in the heart of Portland’s historic district with live music, food vendors, and activities for kids (www.portlandmaine.com/old-port-festival; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/772-6828). Mid-June.

Annual Windjammer Days, Boothbay Harbor. For nearly 4 decades, windjammers have gathered in Boothbay Harbor to kick off the summer sailing season. Expect music, food, and a parade of magnificent sailboats (www.windjammerdays.org; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/633-2353). Late June.

JULY

Independence Day, region-wide. Communities all along the coast celebrate with parades, greased-pole climbs, cakewalks, cookouts, road races, and fireworks. The bigger the town, the bigger the fireworks. But many small coastal towns feature seafood and/or lobster-boat racing, an unusual and fun way to celebrate the occasion. Eastport’s 4-day-long celebration is particularly impressive (see p. 231). Check local newspapers or contact chambers of commerce for details. July 4.

Portland Summer Concerts. They run all summer, but July’s the peak month for big outdoor concerts at Portland’s Maine State Pier and Thompson’s Point, featuring everything from country acts to jam bands to Bob Dylan. Check www.waterfrontconcerts.com and www.thompsonspointmaine.com for summer schedules. June, July, and August.

York Days, York Village. Enjoy a quintessential coastal Maine celebration complete with crafts, road races, parades, dances, concerts, fireworks, and much more. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/363-1040. Late July to early August.

AUGUST

Maine Lobster Festival, Rockland. Enjoy a boiled lobster or two, and take in ample entertainment during this informal waterfront gala celebrating Maine’s favorite crustacean (www.mainelobsterfestival.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/576-7512). First week of August.

Wild Blueberry Festival, Machias. A festival marking the harvest of the region’s wild blueberries. Eat to your heart’s content (www.machiasblueberry.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/255-6665 or 207/633-2353). Mid-August.

SEPTEMBER

Camden Windjammer Festival. Come visit Maine’s impressive fleet of old-time sailing ships, which host open houses throughout the weekend at this scenic harbor (www.camdenwindjammerfestival.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 800/562-25290). Labor Day weekend.

Blue Hill Fair, Blue Hill. A classic country fair just outside one of Maine’s most elegant villages. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/374-3701. Early September.

Common Ground Country Fair, Unity. A sprawling, old-time state fair with a twist: The emphasis is on organic foods, recycling, and wholesome living. Great music and demonstrations. This is a Maine classic (www.mofga.org/thefair; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/568-4142). Late September.

OCTOBER

Fall Foliage Festival, Boothbay. More than 100 exhibitors display their arts and crafts at the Railroad Village; plenty of festive foodstuffs and live music, too. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/633-4727. Early October.

Damariscotta Pumpkin Fest & Regatta. Many pumpkin-themed activities; huge painted pumpkin sculptures lining Main Street. But the highlight is when local crazies hop inside giant, hollowed-out pumpkins and race them across the harbor, either with paddles or outboard motors. You have to see it to believe it (www.mainepumpkinfest.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/563-8340). Columbus Day weekend.

Mount Desert Island Marathon, Bar Harbor. A scenic 26.2-mile race through gorgeous island scenery (www.runmdi.org; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/276-4226). Mid-October.

OgunquitFest, Ogunquit. A 3-day pre-Halloween bash, featuring arts, crafts, costumes, and a parade. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/646-2939. Late October.

NOVEMBER

Festival of Lights, Rockland. Horse-drawn carriages, singing, shopping, and open houses of local inns. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/596-0376. Late November.

Portland Beer Week. Special brewery tours, tap takeovers, a battle of the bands, and, of course, a tricycle race (www.portlandbeerweek.org). Early November.

DECEMBER

Christmas Prelude, Kennebunkport. Santa arrives in a lobster boat, followed by a blitz of street shows, pancake breakfasts, and tours of the town’s splendid inns (www.christmasprelude.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/967-0857). Early December.

Vintage Christmas, Portsmouth, New Hampshire. The streets are decked, the tree is lit, and the historic Strawberry Banke Museum dazzles with old-time decorations and more than 1,000 candles lighting the 10-acre grounds (www.vintagechristmasnh.org; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 603/433-1100). First 3 weekends in December.

York Village Festival of Lights. This beautiful festival displays an entire York Village and York Beach lit with Christmas lights, carolers, a parade, and much more. Call Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/363-1040. Early December.

Staying Healthy

Mainers by and large are a healthy bunch, something locals ascribe to clean living, brisk northern air, vigorous exercise (leaf raking, snow shoveling, and so on), and a sensible diet. Other than picking up a germ that may lead to a cold or flu, you shouldn’t face any serious health risks when traveling in the region.

Exceptions? Well, yes—you may find yourself at higher risk when exploring the outdoors, particularly in the backcountry. A few things to watch for when venturing off the beaten track:

Poison ivy   The shiny, three-leafed plant is common throughout the region. If touched, you may develop a nasty, itchy rash that will seriously erode the enjoyment of your vacation. The reaction tends to be worse in some people than others. It’s safest to simply avoid it. If you’re unfamiliar with what poison ivy looks like, ask at a ranger station or visitor information booth for more information. Many have posters or books to help with identification.

Giardia   That crystal-clear stream coursing down a backcountry peak may seem pure, but it may be contaminated with animal feces. Gross, yes, and also dangerous. Giardia cysts may be present in some streams and rivers. When ingested by humans, the cysts can result in copious diarrhea and weight loss. Symptoms may not surface until well after you’ve left the backcountry and returned home. Carry your own water for day trips, or bring a small filter (available at most camping and sporting-goods shops) to treat backcountry water. Failing that, at least boil water or treat it with iodine before using it for cooking, drinking, or washing. If you detect symptoms, see a doctor immediately.

Lyme disease   Lyme disease has been a growing problem in New England since 1975 when the disease was identified in the town of Lyme, Connecticut, and some 25,000 cases are reported nationwide annually. The disease is transmitted by tiny deer ticks—smaller than the more common, relatively harmless wood ticks. Look for a bull’s-eye-shaped rash (3-8 in. in diameter); it may feel warm but usually doesn’t itch. Symptoms include muscle and joint pain, fever, and fatigue. If left untreated, heart damage may occur. It’s more easily treated in early phases than later, so seek medical attention as soon as any symptoms are noted.

   

For Those Who Love Historic Homes

Historic New England is a nonprofit foundation that owns and operates 36 historic properties around New England, ranging from places built in the 17th century to the present, including a number of properties profiled in this book. Members get into all of the organization’s properties for free, and receive a number of other benefits including a subscription to Historic New England magazine; a guide to the group’s properties; and invitations to members-only events and other perks. Memberships cost $50 per year for individuals, $60 for households. For more information on Historic New England and its properties, visit the group’s website at www.historicnewengland.org, or call the organization’s Boston headquarters at Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 617/277-3956.

Rabies   Since 1989, rabies has been spreading northward from New Jersey into New England. The disease is spread by animal saliva and is especially prevalent in skunks, raccoons, bats, and foxes. It is always fatal if left untreated in humans. Infected animals tend to display erratic and aggressive behavior. The best advice is to keep a safe distance between yourself and any wild animal you may encounter. If bitten, wash the wound as soon as you can and immediately seek medical attention. Treatment is no longer as painful as it once was, but still involves a series of shots.

Those planning longer excursions into the outdoors may find a compact first-aid kit with basic salves and medicines very handy to have along. Those traveling mostly in the towns and villages should have little trouble finding a local pharmacy, Rite Aid, or Walmart to stock up on common medicines (such as calamine lotion or aspirin) to aid with any minor ailments picked up along the way.

If You Get Sick

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security.

If you get sick while in Maine, consider asking your local hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Some hospitals in Maine have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening. There are large, good hospitals and clinics in the cities of Maine, as well as many small towns. Check with your hotel or the local tourism office if you’re concerned about proximity to hospitals.

Special Interest Trips

One rewarding way to spend a vacation is to learn a new outdoor skill or add to your knowledge. Maine especially lends itself to outdoorsy adventures that combine fresh air and exercise with Mother Nature as your instructor in Maine’s vast, beautiful classroom. You can find plenty of options in Maine, ranging from formal weeklong classes to 1-day workshops. Here are a couple of the most popular:

Fly-fishing in Maine   What says Maine more than L.L.Bean? The world-famous outdoors-store’s educational offerings are growing by leaps and bounds, and are highly recommended by travelers of all ages. Among the many options, the intriguing fly-fishing outings are worth a look. There’s a good catalog available by mail or at the flagship store (open 24 hours a day) on Main Street in Freeport (see p. 116). L.L.Bean also offers a number of shorter workshops on various outdoor skills through its Outdoor Discovery Program (www.llbean.com/adventures; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 888/552-3261).

All About Birds   Budding and experienced naturalists can expand their understanding of marine wildlife while residing on 333-acre Hog Island in Maine’s wild and scenic Muscongus Bay through the Maine Audubon Society. You’re brought by boat, then stay on the island for 5 nights; see the web site hogisland.audubon.org for more details. (Famed birder Roger Tory Peterson once taught birding classes here.) I can personally vouch for Maine Audubon’s other outdoors and educational programs, too. Call or visit their lovely headquarters at 20 Gilsland Farm Road in Falmouth (see p. 102; www.maineaudubon.org; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 207/781-2330), 10 minutes north of Portland.

Tips on Accommodations

“The more we travel,” said an unhappy couple one morning at a nameless New England inn, “the more we realize why we go back to our old favorites time and again.” The reason for their chagrin? They had been forced to switch rooms at 2am when rain had begun dripping right onto them through the ceiling. I hasten to add that this story is not an isolated incident. Small, quaint inns here often come with their own drips, creaks, and quirks.

Maine is famous for its country inns and bed-and-breakfasts, which offer a wonderful alternative to the sort of cookie-cutter, chain-hotel rooms that line U.S. highways from coast to coast. But (as the unhappy couple learned) there are reasons why some people prefer the cookie-cutter hotels. In a chain hotel, you can be reasonably sure that water won’t drip through your ceiling in the middle of the night. Likewise, the beds will be firm, the sink will be relatively new, and you’ll have a TV, telephone, and counter space next to the bathroom sink.

   

Renting a House or Cottage in Maine

Renting a house or cottage in Maine for a week is another good option, particularly outside the summer high season, though there really isn’t a centralized resource for doing so. You get the comforts of having your own kitchen or kitchenette and not worrying about parking, checkout times, or untimely “room service” knocks on your door. For a nice house with an ample supply of bedrooms and an unobstructed ocean view, expect to pay anywhere from $2,000 to $10,000 per week; a simpler cottage will run you less but might still cost more than you expected. Do a Web search for Maine house or cottage rentals, or go to a nationwide rent-by-owner website such as www.vrbo.com. In various regional chapters, we’ve also listed local rental services we’ve found. While these certainly aren’t the only choices along the Maine coast, they’ll give you a good head start.

   

Inn vs. B&B: Everybody Wins

The difference between an inn and a B&B may be confusing for some travelers, since the gap between the two narrows by the day. A couple of decades ago, inns were full-service affairs, whereas B&Bs consisted of private homes with an extra bedroom or two and a homeowner looking for a little extra income. These old-style B&Bs still exist around the region. I’ve occupied a few evenings sitting in a well-used living room watching Tom Brokaw with the owner, as if visiting with a forgotten aunt.

Today, however, B&Bs are more commonly professionally run affairs, where guests have private bathrooms, a separate common area, and attentive service. The owners have apartments tucked away in the back, prepare sumptuous breakfasts in the morning (some B&Bs offer “candlelight breakfasts”), and offer a high level of service. All of the B&Bs in this guide are of the more professionally run variety (although some still have shared bathrooms).

The sole difference between inns and B&Bs—at least as defined by this guide—is that inns serve dinner (and sometimes lunch). B&Bs provide breakfast only. Readers shouldn’t infer that B&Bs are necessarily more informal or in any way inferior to a full-service inn. Indeed, many have the air of gracious inns that just happened to have overlooked serving dinner. That’s true for many of the B&Bs listed in this guide; and with a little luck, you’ll stumble into Ralph Waldo Emerson’s idea of simple contentment: “Hospitality consists in a little fire, a little food, and an immense quiet,” he wrote in his journal.

Every inn and B&B listed in this guide yields a decent, and often high-quality, experience. Just keep in mind that each place is different, and you need to match the personality of the place with your own personality. Some inns are more polished and fussier than others; this is a rural area, so a lot of them (even some calling themselves “resorts”) lack basic amenities to which business travelers have grown accustomed in chain hotels. (In-room phones and air-conditioning lead the list.)

Saving on Your Lodging

How to save on lodgings? Let us count the ways! Here are just a few tips for those who need to pinch pennies.

bull.jpgConsider private B&B accommodations and complete home rentals. As most travelers know, it’s often cheaper to rent a room in someone’s home or a complete house than it is to stay in a hotel. That’s why you’ll now find dozens upon dozens of options on AirBnB.com, HomeAway.com, VRBO.com, FlipKey.com, Wimdu.com and others. Please note that none of these services vet the homes they’re renting for quality; these are simply clearinghouses. So look at the pictures carefully and ask a lot of questions before booking. Remember too that there are fees attached to these types of arrangements, which always include a percentage given to the website through which you’ve booked; and may also include a cleaning fee. So be sure to add up all the numbers before committing.

bull.jpgConsider the timing carefully. Resort hotels are most crowded and therefore most expensive on weekends, so discounts are usually available for midweek stays. And in Maine, summer prices are vastly different from off-season rates.

bull.jpgSidestep excess surcharges and hidden costs. Many hotels have the unpleasant practice of nickel-and-diming their guests with opaque surcharges. When you book a room, ask what is included in the room rate, and what is extra. Avoid dialing direct from hotel phones, which can have exorbitant rates. And don’t be tempted by the room’s minibar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more

bull.jpgKnow your resort fees. There are a small handful of all-inclusive resorts in Maine. The term “all-inclusive” means different things at different hotels; here, it means three meals daily and use of the resort’s sports equipment (such as canoes and kayaks). You should also carefully consider your hotel’s meal plan. If you enjoy eating out and sampling the local cuisine, it makes sense to choose a Continental plan (also known as B&B), or a European plan, which doesn’t include any meals and allows you maximum flexibility. If you’re more interested in saving money, opt for a Modified American plan (MAP), which includes breakfast and dinner, or the American plan, which includes all three meals (quite rare in this region). If you must choose a MAP, see if you can get a free lunch at your hotel if you decide to do dinner out.

bull.jpgAsk if the hotel charges extra for additional guests (beyond two). The room rates published in this guide are all for two people sharing one room. Most places charge $10 and up per extra guest sharing the room. Don’t assume that children traveling with you can stay for free—usually they can, but ask first about extra charges—and don’t assume that every room can hold more than two.

bull.jpgAsk about a minimum stay requirement and discounts for multiday stays. Many inns now require guests to book a minimum of 2 nights or more during the busiest times (holiday weekends, peak ski season, peak fall foliage season). These policies are mentioned in the following pages if known, but check anyway. And they might not apply if you walk in off the street; innkeepers develop sudden amnesia when faced with a chance to sell an empty room on a Saturday night despite a policy against such a stay.

Service Charges

Rather than increase room rates in the face of rising competition, hotels, inns, and B&Bs are increasingly tacking on nickel-and-dime fees to their guests’ bills. Most innkeepers will tell you about these fees when you reserve or check in; a few will surprise you at checkout.

The most common surcharge is an involuntary “service charge” of 10% to 15%. Coupled with state lodging taxes (even “sales-tax-free” New Hampshire hits tourists with a 9% levy), that bumps the cost of a bed up by nearly 25%. (The rates listed in this guide don’t include service charges or sales tax.)

Other charges may include a pet fee ($10 or more per day extra), a foliage-season surcharge ($10—$50 per room), and a “resort fee” (of 15%—20% tax at certain resorts). Some hotels even tack on a $1 per day fee for the presence of an in-room safe, whether it is used or not.

Traveling with Pets

No surprise: Some places allow pets, some don’t. I’ve noted inns that allow pets, but I don’t recommend showing up with a pet in tow unless you’ve cleared it over the phone with the innkeeper. Note that many establishments have only one or two rooms (often a cottage or room with exterior entrance) set aside for guests traveling with pets, and they won’t be happy to meet Fido if the pet rooms are already occupied. Also, it’s increasingly common for a surcharge of $10 or $40 to be charged to pet owners to pay for the extra cleaning. On the positive side, all Motel 6 hotels accept pets as a matter of policy, and so (surprisingly) do some upscale inns.

Keep in mind that dogs are prohibited on hiking trails and must be leashed at all times on federal lands administered by the National Park Service (this includes Acadia National Park; see chapter 8). But no pets of any sort are allowed at any time (leashed or unleashed) into Baxter State Park (see p. 262), a short side trip from the coast. Most other Maine state parks do allow pets on a leash, however.

fast_fact.jpg Coastal Maine

Area Codes   Maine’s area code is 207 throughout.

Business Hours   Shops in Maine are usually open weekdays from 9am to 6pm, Saturdays from 10am until 5 to 7pm, and Sundays from noon until 5 or 6pm. In bigger cities like Portland, and in shopping-mall and outlet-shop areas, shops stay open as late as 9pm during peak shopping days and/or seasons.

Cellphones (Mobile Phones)   Don’t take a cell signal for granted on the back roads of Maine, or even at your rustic country B&B. It’s a good bet that your phone will work in the region’s major cities and along Route 1, at least until you get way Downeast. The peninsulas can be a crapshoot, though, and the same goes for heading inland. Before heading out, Look over your wireless company’s coverage map on its website; T-Mobile and Sprint are particularly weak at covering rural areas.

Foreign cellphones may or may not work here due to the poorly developed GSM network; they will probably work on the southern Maine coast, but may not on the rest of the coast. Foreign phones may or may not be able to use SMS to send text messages.

Need to rent a cellphone? Check at the airport in Boston or Portland when you arrive. Or head for a shopping mall or the central business district/main street of the town or city you’re visiting.

Drinking Laws   The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated.

Liquor of some sort is sold at special, state-operated stores; some supermarkets; and many convenience stores in Maine. Restaurants without liquor licenses sometimes allow patrons to bring in their own—this is particularly common at lobster shacks, but ask first. Bars sell liquor until 1am in Maine.

Electricity   Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates   All embassies are located in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (www.britainusa.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 202/588-6500). Other British consulates are located in Atlanta, Chicago, Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle. The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Other Irish consulates are located in Chicago, New York, and San Francisco. The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 202/797-3000; usa.embassy.gov.au). There are consulates in Chicago, New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Detroit, Los Angeles, Miami, Minneapolis, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle. The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 202/328-4800; www.mfat.govt.nz). New Zealand consulates are in Honolulu, Los Angeles, and New York.

For travelers from the British Isles, consular services are relatively close to Maine. The British Consulate Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 617/245-4500) is at 1 Broadway in Cambridge, MA, on the campus of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). And the Irish Consulate (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 617/267-9330) is on the 5th floor of 535 Boylston St. in Boston, near Copley Square.

Emergencies   For fire, police, and ambulance, find any phone and dial Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 911. If this somehow fails, dial 0 (zero) and report an emergency.

Gasoline(Petrol)   Gasoline in the U.S. is sold in gallons, at stations known variously as “gas stations” or “service stations.” One gallon is equal to 3.8 liters or 0.85 imperial gallons. Gas in Maine is a bit more expensive than it is in some other parts of the U.S., but still much cheaper than it is in Canada, Europe, Asia, and Australia. There are next to no full-service gas stations in Maine, meaning you can expect to pump the gas yourself.

Internet Access   Many of Maine’s public libraries maintain computer terminals with free public Internet access. It is a rare Maine inns or hotel these days that does not offer free Wi-Fi with your stay; ask when booking or checking in. Internet cafes come and go, but any reasonably hip coffee shop on the coast is also likely to have free Wi-Fi.

LGBTQ Travelers   In 2012, Maine became one of the first three states to legalize same-sex marriage by popular vote. Portland hosts a sizable pride festival early each summer that includes a riotous parade and a dance on the city pier. South of Portland, Ogunquit is hugely popular among gay travelers, a longtime (even historic) gay resort area that features a lively beach-and-bar scene in the summer. A website, www.gayogunquit.com, lists information on locally gay-owned inns, restaurants, and nightclubs.

Lost Property   Most bus and train stations, stores, and hotels keep lost items for a few weeks. Ask for “lost and found.” If your credit card disappears or is stolen, contact your credit card companies immediately. (If theft was involved, also call police and get a printed police report.) Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss.

Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa’s emergency number is 800/847-2911; MasterCard’s is 800/627-8372; and American Express is at 800/528-4800.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail   Every town and city in Maine has a post office—in the smallest towns, it may double as a grocer or other business. At press time, domestic letters cost 47¢ (up to 1 oz.) and postcards cost 34¢. International rates are always higher. For more information on rates, go to the website www.usps.com and click on “Calculate a Price.”

Newspapers & Magazines   The Portland Press Herald is Portland’s daily newspaper, with decent listings; the free Portland Phoenix and Dispatch are also very handy for listings of southern Maine concerts, clubs, and art shows. The biggest paper in the Downeast and Midcoast regions is the daily Bangor Daily News. Regional newspapers still abound in the rest of coastal Maine, too, from the York Weekly to the Biddeford Journal Tribune, Mount Desert Islander, Brunswick Times-Record, and the Camden Herald. There are a number of quality glossy magazines based in Maine, from longtime star Down East to Portland Monthly to WoodenBoat.

Police   Dial Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 911. You can also find the direct phone numbers for many of Maine’s small-town police stations in the local phone book.

Safety   Maine boasts some of the lowest crime rates in the country. The odds of anything bad happening during your visit here are very slight. But all travelers are advised to take the usual precautions against theft, robbery, and assault. The crime you’re statistically most likely to encounter is theft of items from your car. Don’t leave anything of value in plain view, and lock valuables in your trunk. Better still, keep them with you at all times.

Take the usual precautions against leaving cash or valuables in your hotel room when you’re not present. Many hotels have safe-deposit boxes. Smaller inns and hotels often do not, but it can’t hurt to ask to leave small items in the house safe.

Senior Travel   Maine is well suited to older travelers, with a wide array of activities for seniors and discounts commonly available. Members of AARP (www.aarp.org; 888/687-2277), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. (But check these against the normal online discounts; the AARP price isn’t always lower.) The U.S. National Park Service’s America the Beautiful Senior Pass gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service—national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges—for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some fees for camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm.

Smoking   Smoking is now banned in all workplaces and public places (restaurants, bars, offices, hotel lobbies) in Maine.

Taxes   The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. Maine has a 5.5% sales tax on most consumer goods and a 9% tax on lodging. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Time   The entire Maine coast lies within the Eastern Standard Time zone (EST). When it’s noon in Bar Harbor and Portland, it’s also noon in New York City, and it’s 11am in Chicago (CST), 10am in Denver (MST), 9am in Los Angeles (PST), and 5pm in London (GMT).

Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping   Tips are a very important part of certain workers’ income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. However, tipping is certainly not compulsory if service is poor. In hotels, tip bellhops $2 or more per bag ($3–$5 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip housekeeping staff a few dollars per day (more if you have a large suite). Tip the doorman or concierge if some specific service was provided (for example, calling a cab or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip valet-parking attendants $3 to $5 each time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment.

Tip cabdrivers 15% of your fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage).

Toilets   In coastal Maine, they’re called bathrooms or restrooms. Find them in hotel lobbies, bars, coffee shops, restaurants, fast-food places, museums, department stores, train stations, and some gas stations. (Sometimes, you will need to ask the cashier for a key, or make a purchase first.)

Travelers with Disabilities   If you plan to visit Acadia National Park, consider obtaining the America The Beautiful National Park Access Pass, which gives visually impaired or permanently disabled persons free lifetime entrance to sites administered by the National Park Service. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges. The pass can only be obtained in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of a medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some fees for camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/planyourvisit/passes.htm, or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS) at Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 888/275-8747.For more on organizations that offer resources to travelers with disabilities, go to frommers.com.

Traveling with Children   Families will have little trouble finding fun, low-key things to do with kids in Maine. Some recommended destinations include York Beach and Acadia National Park. Be sure to ask about family discounts when visiting attractions. Many places offer a flat family rate that costs less than paying for each ticket individually. Note that some parks and beaches charge by the carload rather than the head count.