Accommodations: See Paradores; Sleeping; and specific destinations
Ainhoa (Ainhoa): 277
Airbnb.com: 25
Airfares (airlines): 5; carry-on restrictions, 10; cheap flights, 950–951
Airports: contact info, 937; VAT refunds, 17–18 at; Barcelona, 174–175; Biarritz, 254, 273; Bilbao, 209, 242; Gibraltar, 853; Granada, 594; Madrid, 422, 513–514; Málaga, 830; Pamplona, 296; San Sebastián, 209; Santiago, 352; Sevilla, 657; Tangier, 887
Alameda del Tajo Park (Ronda): 781
Al-Andalus Life, Museum of (Córdoba): 744, 746
Albayzín (Granada): 606, 630–635; eating, 645–646, 647; map, 631; sleeping, 643–644
Albergues: 325, 342, 345, 495, 583
Alcaicería (Granada): 600, 607
Alcazaba (Granada): 610, 614–615
Alcázar (Jerez): 806
Alcázar (Segovia): 536–537
Alcázar (Sevilla): 672, 682–691; map, 683
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Córdoba): 749–750
Algeciras: 868–869
Alhambra (Granada): 605–624; eating, 612–613; grounds, 622–624; guided tours, 595–596, 612; information, 591–592; maps, 608–609, 616; planning tips, 610–611; reservations, 9, 596–597, 605–606; self-guided tour, 613–624; sleeping, 644–645; traveling to, 608–609, 612
Alhambra Museum (Granada): 614
Alhóndiga Bilbao: 246–247
Almanac: xviii–xix
Almudena Cathedral (Madrid): 439
Altamira Caves: 385–389
Ambasmestas: 283
American Legation Museum (Tangier): 900–901
Andalucía: 589–809; southern map, 762; white hill towns, 761–809. See also Córdoba; Granada; Sevilla
Anglican Church (Tangier): 895–896
Antigua Chapel (Sevilla): 678
Apes of Gibraltar: 845–846
April Fair (Sevilla): 659, 706–707
Aquariums: Barcelona, 48; Biarritz, 275; San Sebastián, 217
Aqueducts, Roman: Barcelona, 79; Segovia, 531, 535
Arab Baths: Granada, 607, 630; Ronda, 786
Arabic language: 876–877
Archaeological sites: Altamira Caves, 385–389; Pileta Cave, 786–787. See also Romans, ancient
Architecture: overview, 921–924. See also Modernisme; and specific architects and buildings
Archivo de Indias (Sevilla): 673, 691
Arco de Santa María (Burgos): 320–321
Arcos de la Frontera: 763–775; eating, 773–774; helpful hints, 765; maps, 764, 766; nightlife, 770–771; sights, 765–770; sleeping, 771–773; tourist information, 763; transportation, 764–765, 774–775
Arenal Market Hall (Sevilla): 707, 730
Armory (Madrid): 453–454
Army Museum (Toledo): 559, 568–569
Arnéguy: 291
Art (artists): overview, 920–921. See also specific artists and art museums
Art Nouveau: See Modernisme
Art Nouveau Museum (Salamanca): 405
Artxanda Funicular (Bilbao): 247
Ascain: 276
Astorga: 340–341
Astorga Cathedral: 340–341
Astrolabe Tapestry: 568
Atapuerca: 321–322
Atlas Mountains (Morocco): 912
Atocha Station (Madrid): 420, 421, 509–511
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 10, 952, 953
Auritz: 292
AVE: See Train travel
Avenida de la Constitución (Sevilla): 691–692
Ávila Cathedral: 547
Ávila Wall: 546–547
Avinguda Portal de l’Angel (Barcelona): 68, 78, 142
Back Door travel philosophy: 42
Baiona: See Bayonne
Balcony of Europe (Nerja): 816–818
Bandit Museum (Ronda): 784
Banks: See Money
Baños Árabes (Granada): 607, 630
Baños Árabes (Ronda): 786
Baños Califales (Córdoba): 750
Barajas Airport (Madrid): 513–514
Barcelona: 43–176; at a glance, 86–87; arrival in, 54; daily reminder, 49; eating, 157–172; excursion areas, 177–198; helpful hints, 54–56; itineraries, 45–47; neighborhoods, 47–48, 52; nightlife, 143–146; self-guided walks, 65–85; shopping, 141–143; sights, 85–141; sleeping, 146–157; tourist information, 52–53; tours, 60–61, 64–65; transportation, 54, 56–60, 172–176. See also specific neighborhoods
Barcelona Card: 53
Barcelona Cathedral: 80–81, 85, 86, 88, 90
Barcelona City Hall: 83
Barcelona harborfront: 48, 75, 105–106; eating, 171–172
Barcelona History Museum: 87, 90–91
Barcelona Maritime Museum: 87, 105
Barceloneta: 48, 75, 107, 145; eating, 171–172; sleeping, 157
Barri Gòtic (Barcelona): 48, 75, 85, 86, 88–94; eating, 163–167; guided tours, 60; maps, 76–77, 92–93; nightlife, 144, 146; self-guided walk, 75–85; shopping, 142; sleeping, 151, 152-153
Barrio del Cid (León): 329
Barrio Húmedo (León): 329
Barrio San Basilio (Córdoba): 756, 758
Barrio Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 665–673, 692–693; eating, 725–726; Jews of Sevilla, 669; maps, 666–667, 714–715; sleeping, 712–719
Barri Xines (Barcelona): 74
Basílica de la Macarena (Sevilla): 672, 701–703
Basilicas: See Churches and cathedrals
Basque Country: 199–278; at a glance, 204; cuisine, 205; French, 253–278; map, 202–203; people, 200–201; Spanish, 206–252; transportation, 203–204. See also specific destinations
Basque Country Museum (Guernica): 235
Basque Culture, Museum of (Bayonne): 269–270
Basque Museum (Bilbao): 247–248
Baths of the Caliphate Alcázar (Córdoba): 750
Bay of Biscay: 231–233
Beaches: Barcelona, 48, 87, 107, 145; Biarritz, 273, 274, 275; Fuengirola, 832; Marbella, 832; Nerja, 819–822; St-Jean-de-Luz, 261; San Pedro de Alcántara, 832; San Sebastián, 217–218; Sitges, 185, 187; Tangier, 903; Tarifa, 860–861; Vejer de la Frontera, 808
Belén Artístico (Arcos): 770
Bernabéu Stadium (Madrid): 484–485
Betlem Church (Barcelona): 70
Biarritz: 273–275
Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne Airport: 254, 273
Biarritz Fishermen’s Wharf: 275
Biking (bike rentals): Barcelona, 56, 64–65, 107; Bayonne, 269; San Sebastián, 210, 212; Sevilla, 659, 664
Bilbao: 238–252; eating, 251–252; maps, 240–241, 249; sights, 244–248; sleeping, 248–250; tourist information, 239; tours, 243; transportation, 239, 242, 252
Bilbao, Guggenheim: 239, 244–246; eating near, 251
Bilbao Fine Arts Museum: 246
Bilbo: See Bilbao
Bisagra Gate (Toledo): 577
Bishop’s Palace (Astorga): 340
Black Virgin of Montserrat: 193, 195–196
Block of Discord (Barcelona): 87, 113, 116–119
Boat travel and cruises: Barcelona, 106, 175–176; Bilbao, 243; Hendaye, 266; St-Jean-de-Luz, 257, 266; San Sebastián, 216; Sevilla, 665
Books, recommended: 954–955
Boquería market (Barcelona): 71–72, 162
Bosch, Hieronymus: 460–461, 524, 921
Bretxa Public Market (San Sebastián): 214–216, 227
“Bridge of the Queen” (Puente la Reina): 309
Bullfighting (bullfights): 924–926; Madrid, 442, 483–484; Pamplona, 299, 302; Ronda, 779–780; Sevilla, 673, 705–706; Tarifa, 859
Bullfighting museums: Madrid, 484; Ronda, 780–781; Sevilla, 672, 706
Bulls, Running of the (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Buñuel, Luis: 180, 181, 471, 921
Burgos Cathedral: 316–319
Burgos Museum: 320
Burguete: 292
Burriana Beach (Nerja): 821, 829–830
Buses (bus travel): 945; map, 942–943. See also specific destinations
Cable cars: See Funiculars
Cabs: 945–946. See also specific destinations
Cadaqués: 182–185
Café Granja Viader (Barcelona): 70–71, 162
CaixaForum (Barcelona): 86, 138–139
CaixaForum (Madrid): 476
Caja Madrid (Madrid): 478–479
Calahonda Beach (Nerja): 820
Calatrava, Santiago: 136, 242, 311, 482, 919, 923
Caliphate Alcázar, Baths of the (Córdoba): 750
Calle Agua (Sevilla): 670
Calle Agua de Albayzín (Granada): 635
Calle Ancha (León): 329
Calle Cava Baja (Madrid): 501–502
Calle Cuna (Sevilla): 709
Calle de Jesús (Madrid): 500–501
Calle de la Estafeta (Pamplona): 298–299, 306
Calle del Arenal (Madrid): 443–445
Calle de las Flores (Córdoba): 746
Calle de Postas (Madrid): 434
Calle Juan de Bilbao (San Sebastián): 213
Calle Mayor (Madrid): 438–439
Calle Reinoso (Sevilla): 671
Calle Reyes Católicos (Granada): 602–603, 638
Calle Sagasta (Sevilla): 708–709
Calle San Jacinto (Sevilla): 704, 721
Calle Sierpes (Sevilla): 708
Calle Tetuán (Sevilla): 708
Camarmeña: 397
Camino de Santiago: 279–379; at a glance, 284–285; hiking, 283, 324–325, 342; history of, 280–281; itineraries, 284–285; maps, 282, 288–289, 338–339; symbols, 298; tours, 286; transportation, 282–284. See also Santiago de Compostela; and specific destinations
Camp Nou Stadium (Barcelona): 141
Cantabria: 380–397; itineraries, 380, 382; map, 381; transportation, 382–383
Cantarriján Beach (Nerja): 821
Capilla-Panteón (Comillas): 391
Capilla Real: See Royal Chapel
Carabeo Beach (Nerja): 820–821
Cares Gorge: 397
Car insurance: 948–949
Car leasing: 949
Carmens, in Granada: 647
Carrefour (Barcelona): 69, 162
Carrefour (Salamanca): 412
Carrera de la Virgen (Granada): 638
Carrer de la Mercè (Barcelona): 165, 167
Carrer del Bisbe Bridge (Barcelona): 83
Carrión de los Condes: 326
Carthusian Monastery (Burgos): 321
Carthusian Monastery (Granada): 607, 638
Car travel (driving): 938, 949–950; mileage and time, 947; road signs, 950; whirlwind three-week tour, 6–7. See also specific destinations
Cartuja de Miraflores Monastery (Burgos): 321
Casa Amatller (Barcelona): 113, 116
Casa Batlló (Barcelona): 87, 116–118
Casa de Botines (León): 329
Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona): 81
Casa de les Punxes (Barcelona): 120
Casa del Rey Moro (Ronda): 785
Casa de Murillo (Sevilla): 671
Casa de Pilatos (Sevilla): 696
Casa de Sefarad (Córdoba): 748
Casa Lleó Morera (Barcelona): 113
Casa Milà (Barcelona): 86, 118–119
Casa Museu Salvador Dalí (Port Lligat): 183–184
Casas rurales: overview, 25
Casemates Square (Gibraltar): 840, 842, 852
Casita Museo de Ratón Pérez (Madrid): 444
Castile: 313
Castrojeriz: 326
Catalan Art Museum (Barcelona): 86, 136–137
Catalan Music, Palace of (Barcelona): 86, 102–103, 145
Catalunya: overview, 62–63. See also Barcelona
Catedral de Barcelona: 80–81, 85, 86, 88, 90
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Cave Museum of Sacromonte (Granada): 606, 636
Cell (mobile) phones: 9–10, 929, 932–934
Centro de Arte (Burgos): 320
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid): 442, 469–475
Centro de Interpretación del Misticismo (Ávila): 548
Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla (Sevilla): 692–693
Centro Galego de Arte Contemporánea (Santiago): 370
Cervantes, Miguel de: 359, 365, 588, 681, 916, 919, 955
Chamartín Station (Madrid): 420, 421, 509
Charles V’s Palace (Granada): 610, 613–614
Charles V Wall (Gibraltar): 839
Chefchaouen (Morocco): 911
Chocolate: 166, 265, 270–271, 650; Museum (Barcelona), 105. See also Churros con chocolate
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 922; Almudena Cathedral (Madrid), 439; Anglican church (Tangier), 895–896; Astorga Cathedral, 340–341; Ávila Cathedral, 547; Barcelona Cathedral, 80–81, 85, 86, 88, 90; Basílica de la Macarena (Sevilla), 672, 701–703; Betlem Church (Barcelona), 70; Church of the Crucifixion (Puente la Reina), 308–309; Church of the Savior (Sevilla), 673, 695–696; Ciudad Rodrigo Cathedral, 414; Córdoba Cathedral, 742–744; Corpus Christi Church (Madrid), 437; Granada Cathedral, 601–602, 606, 628–630; León Cathedral, 330, 332–334; Lugo Cathedral, 347; Pamplona Cathedral, 302–303; St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier), 895–896; Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne), 270; St. Ginès (Madrid), 444; St. James’ Gate of Forgiveness (Villafranca), 342; St. Jean-Baptiste Church (St-Jean-de-Luz), 262–263; St. Mary’s Church (O Cebreiro), 344–345; St. Mary’s Parish Church (Lekeitio), 232–233; St. Matthew Church (Tarifa), 858–859; St. Peter’s Church (Arcos), 769–770; Salamanca Cathedrals, 402–403; San Esteban (Salamanca), 405–406; San Lorenzo (Pamplona), 304–305; San Román (Toledo), 559, 570; San Salvador (Nerja), 818; San Saturnino (Pamplona), 304; Santa Ana (Sevilla), 704; Santa Anna (Barcelona), 78; Santa María (Arcos), 766–768; Santa Maria del Mar (Barcelona), 87, 103–104; Santa Maria del Pi (Barcelona), 72, 142, 146; Santa María la Mayor (Ronda), 782–783; Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla (Sitges), 187; Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona), 81–82; Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao), 247; Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, 356–363; Santos Justo y Pastor (Segovia), 538; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 559, 571–572, 577, 586; Segovia Cathedral, 535–536; Sevilla Cathedral, 672, 674–680; Toledo Cathedral, 558–565; Vera Cruz Church (Segovia), 538
Church of the Savior (Sevilla): 673, 695–696
Churros con chocolate: 166, 508–509, 650
Cidade da Cultura de Galicia (Santiago): 370
Cinema Rif (Tangier): 895, 903
Circulo de Bellas Artes (Madrid): 476
Citadel Park (Barcelona): 106–107
City of Culture of Galicia (Santiago): 370
Ciudad Rodrigo: 414–415
Ciudad Rodrigo Cathedral: 414
Clothing Museum (Madrid): 443, 480
Clothing sizes: 959
Columbus, Christopher: 84, 85, 200, 404, 482, 602–603, 617–618, 625, 685–686, 913, 915; biographical sketch, 685; Monument (Barcelona), 75, 106; tomb (Sevilla), 677–678
Comillas: 389–393
Consuegra: 588
Consulates: 936
Convento de las Dueñas (Salamanca): 406–407
Convent of St. Teresa (Ávila): 547–548
Córdoba: 733–760; eating, 756–760; entertainment, 753; helpful hints, 736; itineraries, 733–734; maps, 735, 737, 745, 757; sights, 736–752; sleeping, 753–755; tourist information, 734; transportation, 734, 736, 760
Córdoba Cathedral: 742–744
Córdoba City Walls: 748
Corpus Christi Church and Convent (Madrid): 437
Corpus Christi Convent (Segovia): 534
Corral del Carbón (Granada): 598–600, 607
Cortés, Hernán: 918
Costa del Sol: 810–870; history, 817; itineraries, 811–812; map, 811. See also specific destinations
Court of the Orange Trees (Sevilla): 681
Courtyard of the Dolls (Sevilla): 688–689
Courtyard of the Lions (Granada): 619
Courtyard of the Maidens (Sevilla): 687
Courtyard of the Myrtles (Granada): 616
Crucifixion, Church of the (Puente la Reina): 308–309
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Cruz de Ferro: 341–342
Cuatro Postes (Ávila): 547
Cuesta de Santo Domingo (Ronda): 784–785
Cueva de Altamira: 385–389
Cueva de la Pileta: 786–787
Cuevas de Nerja: 822
Cuisine: 28–38; Basque Country, 205; Catalan, 157–158; Córdoba, 756; Galician, 375–376; Gibraltar, 851; Granada, 645; Madrid, 496; Moroccan, 907; Salamanca, 411; Segovia, 540; Sevilla, 720–721. See also Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Currency and exchange: 13–14; Gibraltar, 838; Morocco, 876, 888
Customs regulations: 18
Dalí, Salvador: 182, 196, 470–471, 921; biographical sketch, 180–181; House (Port Lligat), 183–184; Theater-Museum (Figueres), 178–182
Damascene, shopping for: 578
Dance: See Flamenco; Sardana dances; Zambra dance
Data roaming and smartphones: 932–933
Deba: 232
Del Salón Beach (Nerja): 821–822
Descalzas Royal Monastery (Madrid): 478
Desserts: overview, 33
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Domènech i Montaner, Lluís: 86, 102–103, 113, 116, 120, 128, 390, 392, 393
Domingo, Placido: 919
Donibane Lohizune: See St-Jean-de-Luz
Donostia: See San Sebastián
Don Quixote (Cervantes): 588, 955
Drinks: 38–40; glossary of terms, 38–39. See also Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel
Dürer, Albrecht: 459
Eating: 28–38; budgeting, 5, 8; Spanish restaurant phrases, 964; tipping, 16–17. See also Cuisine; Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Eixample (Barcelona): 52, 112–130; eating, 169–171; map, 114–115; nightlife, 145; shopping, 143; sleeping, 153–156
El Born (Barcelona): 48, 86, 94–105; eating, 167–169; nightlife, 144; shopping, 142–143
El Capricho (Comillas): 389, 391
El Cid: 314, 318, 319, 320, 918
Elciego: 311
El Corte Inglés (Barcelona), 52, 78, 162; (Granada), 595, 638; (Madrid), 423, 424, 425–426, 507–508; (Sevilla), 707, 708
El Escorial: 518–525, 923; maps, 519, 521
El Greco: 196, 213, 246, 520, 524, 547, 552, 564, 568, 584, 698, 920; biographical sketch, 573; Museum (Toledo), 559, 572; Prado Museum (Madrid), 464; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 559, 571–572
El Martes (Toledo): 578
El País Vasco: 206–252; cuisine, 205
El Playazo (Nerja): 822
El Prat de Llobregat Airport (Barcelona): 174–175
Els Quatre Gats (Barcelona): 78–79, 164
El Torno Pastelería de Conventos (Sevilla): 682
El Torreón: 799
E-mail: 937. See also specific destinations
Entertainment: budgeting, 8. See also specific destinations
Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 443, 480
Espadrilles, shopping for: 142
Espelette (Ezpeleta): 277–278
Estadi Olímpic (Barcelona): 136
Euro currency: 13–14
Europa Point (Gibraltar): 837
Euskal Herria: See Basque Country
Euskal Herria Museoa (Guernica): 235
Euskal Museoa (Bilbao): 247–248
Events: See Festivals
Exchange rate: 14
Fans, shopping for: 485–486
Fargas (Barcelona): 166
Feria de Abril (Sevilla): 659, 706–707
Ferries to Morocco: 869, 879–881, 887
Fès (Morocco): 911
Festivals: 956–958; Barcelona, 55; Córdoba, 736; Granada, 594; Nerja, 822; Pamplona, 293, 296, 300–301; Salamanca, 401; Santiago, 352–353; Sevilla, 658–659, 706–707, 956; Sitges, 185–186
Fiesta de San Fermín (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Figueres: 177–182
Films, recommended: 955–956
Fishermen’s Wharf (Biarritz): 275
Flag, Spain: xix
Flamenco: Barcelona, 146; Córdoba, 753; Granada, 607, 637–638; Madrid, 442, 487–488; Nerja, 822; Sevilla, 672, 709–711
Flamenco Dance Museum (Sevilla): 673, 697–698, 710
Font Màgica (Barcelona): 87, 138
Food: See Cuisine; Eating; Jamón; Markets; Piments d’Espelette; Roast suckling pig; Serrano ham; Tapas; and specific destinations
Fòrum (Barcelona): 108–109
Fountain of Canaletes (Barcelona): 69
Franco, Francisco: 62, 83, 89, 134, 181, 193, 199, 206, 236, 255, 351, 431, 436, 441, 447, 472, 482, 524, 527, 528, 569, 840, 917, 919, 925
Frederic Marès Museum (Barcelona): 91
French Basque Country: 253–278; cuisine, 205
French language: 257
Frigiliana: 822–823
Frómista: 326
Fuengirola: 832
Fuente Dé Cable Car: 396–397
Fuenterrabía: 230–231
Fulton, John: 672–673
Fundació Antoni Tàpies (Barcelona): 119–120
Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona): 87, 134–135
Funiculars (cable cars): Barcelona, 131, 134; Bilbao, 247; Fuente Dé, 396–397; Gibraltar, 843, 844; Montserrat, 190–192, 196–197; Valley of the Fallen, 526
Futbol: See Soccer
Fútbol House (Madrid): 444
Galego language: 351
Galería de Arte San Pedro (Arcos): 770
Galicia: 343–379; cuisine, 375–376; language, 351. See also Santiago de Compostela
Galician Contemporary Art Museum (Santiago): 370
Galician Folk-Music Concerts (Santiago): 370
Galician People, Museum of the (Santiago): 369–370
Garden of Earthly Delights (Bosch): 460–461
Gares: 308–309
Garganta del Cares: 397
Garganta Verde: 799
Gasparini Room (Madrid): 450–451
Gaudí, Antoni: 116, 329, 340, 389, 391; in Barcelona, 112–113, 116–130; guided tours, 61; House and Museum (Barcelona), 130; Palau Güell, 74, 87, 112; Sagrada Família, 86, 120–128
Gay community, in Sitges: 185
Gehry, Frank: 107; Guggenheim Bilbao, 244–246
Gelmírez Palace (Santiago): 366
Generalife Gardens (Granada): 622–624
Gernika: See Guernica
Gernika Assembly House (Guernica): 236–238
Gernika Peace Museum (Guernica): 235
Gibraltar: 833–853; eating, 851–853; helpful hints, 838–839; itineraries, 835; maps, 834, 841; nightlife, 848–849; shopping, 840; sights, 839–848; sleeping, 849–851; vs. Spain, 836, 838; tourist information, 836; transportation, 836–838, 853
Gibraltar Moorish Castle: 848
Gibraltar Museum: 842
Giralda Bell Tower (Sevilla): 672, 674, 681–682
Girona-Costa Brava Airport: 175
Gold Tower (Sevilla): 694–695
Golondrinas, in Barcelona: 75, 106
González Byass (Jerez): 806
Gothic Quarter (Barcelona): See Barri Gòtic
Government of Spain: xix, 919–920
Governor’s Residence (Gibraltar): 840
Goya, Francisco de: 246, 297, 365, 432–433, 920; Prado Museum (Madrid), 465–468; tomb (Madrid), 443, 480
Granada: 589–651; at a glance, 606–607; arrival in, 592–594; eating, 645–650; helpful hints, 594–595; itineraries, 590; self-guided walk, 598–605; sights, 605–638; sleeping, 638–645; tourist information, 591–592; tours, 595–598, 649; transportation, 592–594, 595, 650–651
Granada Cathedral: 601–602, 606, 628–630
Grand Hall of the Ambassadors (Granada): 617–618
Grand Socco (Tangier): 892, 894–895
Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona): 73, 145–146
Gran Vía (Granada): 602–603
Gran Vía (Madrid): 418, 420, 476–478; map, 477
Grazalema Natural Park: 797–801
Great Mosque of Granada: 607, 634
Gros (San Sebastián): 219; sleeping, 220–221
Guadalquivir River: 733, 734, 744
Guernica (Picasso): 235, 236, 472–474
Guernica (town; Gernika): 234–238
Guggenheim Bilbao: 239, 244–246; eating near, 251
Guidebooks: 952–953; Rick Steves, 951; updates, 3, 10, 56, 426, 953
Guitars, shopping for: 146, 486
Guzmán el Bueno Castle (Tarifa): 859
Gypsies (Roma), of Granada: 635–638
Hall of the Abencerrajes (Granada): 619–620
Hall of the Ambassadors (Sevilla): 688
Hall of the Kings (Granada): 620
Hall of Two Sisters (Granada): 620
Ham (jamón): 29; museum, in Madrid, 502–504
Hammam Baños Árabes (Granada): 607, 630
Hammam Baños Árabes (Ronda): 786
Hammam El Bañuelo (Granada): 604–605, 607
Hemingway, Ernest: 292, 299, 302, 305, 307, 496, 789, 926, 954, 955
Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 443, 480
Hiking (walking): Ainhoa, 277; Ávila, 546–547; Biarritz, 275; Camino de Santiago, 283, 324–325, 342; Cares Gorge, 397; Gibraltar, 844; Grazalema Natural Park, 797–799; Montserrat, 196–197; Nerja, 819, 823; Picos de Europa, 394, 397; Ronda, 784–785; San Sebastián, 217
Historic inns: See Paradores
History: 913–919
Holidays: 956–958. See also Festivals
Holy Door (Santiago): 361, 363
Holy Week: 658–659, 660–661, 701, 956
Hondarribia: 230–231
Hospital de la Caridad (Sevilla): 672, 693–694
Hospital de los Venerables (Sevilla): 692
Hotel Casa Fuster (Barcelona): 120
Hotels: overview, 22–24; reservations, 9, 26–27. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
House of the Moorish King (Ronda): 785
Huelgas Monastery (Burgos): 321
Human Evolution, Museum of (Burgos): 319–320
Hustlers, in Morocco: 873, 875, 889, 902, 910
Iglesia del Salvador (Sevilla): 673, 695–696
Ignatius of Loyola, Saint: 201, 919
Immaculate Conception, doctrine of: 678
International Festival of Music and Dance (Granada): 594, 957
Internet access: 937. See also specific destinations
Iron Cross (Mount Irago): 341–342
Iruña: See Pamplona
Irving, Washington: 624, 955; Room (Granada), 621
Isla de las Palomas (Tarifa): 860
Islam: overview, 873–874
Islamic art: overview, 618
Islamic Córdoba: overview, 738–739
Itálica: 704–705
James, Saint: 280–281, 298, 363, 364; biographical sketch, 362; tomb, 361. See also Camino de Santiago
Jewish museums: Córdoba, 748; Sevilla, 692–693; Toledo, 559, 572–574
Jewish Quarter (Barcelona): 82–83
Jewish Quarter (Córdoba): 746–749; map, 745; scavenger hunt, 747
Jewish Quarter (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Jews of Sevilla: 669
Joaquín Peinado Museum (Ronda): 784
John Mackintosh Cultural Centre (Gibraltar): 839, 840
Júzcar: sleeping, 790
Kasbah (Tangier): 901–902; sleeping, 904–905
Kasbah Museum (Tangier): 901
King’s Bastion Leisure Centre (Gibraltar): 839, 848–849
Knives, shopping for: 578
Kubo Gallery (San Sebastián): 219
Kursaal Conference Center (San Sebastián): 219
La Boquería (Barcelona): 71–72, 162
La Cartuja (Granada): 607, 638
La Concha Beach and Promenade (San Sebastián): 217–218
La Estafeta Street (Pamplona): 298–299, 306
La Granja de San Ildefonso Palace (Segovia): 538–539
Laguardia: 310–311
La Línea (Gibraltar): 850, 853
La Mancha: 587–588
La Moreneta (Montserrat): 193, 195–196
Language: Arabic, 876–877; breakfast terms, 30–31; drink terms, 38–39; French, 257; Galego, 351; online translation tip, 13; pronunciation guide, 962; restaurant phrases, 964; survival phrases, 963; tapas terms, 34–36, 225
Language barrier: 928
La Pedrera (Barcelona): 86, 118–119
La Perla Spa (San Sebastián): 218
Lara Museum (Ronda): 783
La Rhune (Larrun): 276
La Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
La Ribera Market (Bilbao): 248
Las Arenas (Barcelona): 140
Las Meninas (Velázquez): 461–462
L’Atelier du Chocolat (Bayonne): 271
La Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 435–436, 506
Laundry: See specific destinations
Lavapiés (Madrid): 482–483
Lekeitio: 232–233
León: 313, 327–338; eating, 337; map, 331; sights, 328–336; sleeping, 336–337
León City Hall: 328
Le Pays Basque: 253–278; cuisine, 205
Lequeitio: 232–233
Liceu (Barcelona): 72–73
Liceu Opera House (Barcelona): 73, 145–146
Lonja Palace (Sevilla): 673, 691
López y López, Antonio: 390, 391
Lugo: 346–348
Lugo Cathedral: 347
Macarena, Basílica de la (Sevilla): 672, 701–703
Macho (Victorio) Museum (Toledo): 559, 574–575
Madinat Al-Zahra: 751–752
Madrid: 416–515; at a glance, 442–443; arrival in, 421–422; daily reminder, 425; eating, 496–509; excursion areas, 516–550; experiences, 481–485; helpful hints, 422–426; itineraries, 418; money-saving tips, 421, 454; nightlife, 486–489; self-guided walk, 430–445; shopping, 423, 485–486; sights, 445–481; sleeping, 489–496; tourist information, 420–421; tours, 428–430; transportation, 421–422, 426–428, 509–515
Madrid Card: 421
Madrid History Museum: 480
Madrid Tower: 441
Madrid Town Hall: 438
Magic Fountains (Barcelona): 87, 138
Maids of Honor, The (Velázquez): 461–462
Mail: 937. See also specific destinations
Málaga: 830–831
Maps: about, 952; legend, 2. See also Map Index
Marbella: 832
Marès (Frederic) Museum (Barcelona): 91
Marine Museum (Biarritz): 275
Maritime Museum (Barcelona): 87, 105
Markets: Arcos, 768–769; Barcelona, 71–72, 103, 162; Bilbao, 248; El Escorial, 525; Granada, 650; Madrid, 435, 436–437, 443, 485, 507; Pamplona, 297; Ronda, 792; St-Jean-de-Luz, 254–255; Salamanca, 412; San Sebastián, 214–216, 227; Santiago, 367–369; Segovia, 530–531, 542; Sevilla, 697, 707, 730; Tangier, 894, 895, 897–899; bargaining, 898; Toledo, 578, 586
Marrakech (Morocco): 911–912
Matisse, Henri: 902
Medina (Tangier): 885, 896–902; eating, 907–909; map, 893; nightlife, 903
Medina Sidonia: 807–808
Mediterranean Steps (Gibraltar): 846–847
Mendoubia Gardens (Tangier): 894, 896
Mercados: See Markets
Mercury Pool and Gardens (Sevilla): 690
Metric system: 958–959
Metro: Barcelona, 56–59; Madrid, 426, 427; San Sebastián, 211; Sevilla, 657, 658
Mezquita (Córdoba): 734, 736–744; eating, 756; map, 737; sleeping, 753–755
Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo): 570
Mies van der Rohe Pavilion (Barcelona): 139
Mihrab (Córdoba): 740–741
Military Heritage Centre (Gibraltar): 847–848
Mirador (Arcos): 770
Mirador de San Nicolás (Granada): 606, 633
Miramar Palace and Park (San Sebastián): 218
Miró, Joan: 72, 140, 180, 196, 469, 475, 921; Museum (Barcelona), 87, 134–135
Mobile (cell) phones: 9–10, 929, 932–934
Modernisme: 108–109, 389–391; in Barcelona, 53, 109–130, 137; guided tours, 60–61; map, 110–111. See also specific architects
Monasterio de Irache: 309, 312
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Madrid): 478
Monasterio de las Huelgas (Burgos): 321
Monasterio de San José del Carmen (Sevilla): 671
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo): 559, 575–576
Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 520–525, 923; map, 521
Monasterio San Pelayo (Santiago): 366–367
Mondragón Palace (Ronda): 783
Money: 13–18; budgeting, 5, 8; Gibraltar, 838; Morocco, 876, 888
Money-saving tips: 13; Barcelona, 53; Madrid, 421, 454; sleeping, 20, 22
Monistrol de Montserrat: 190, 191–192, 197
Monte Igueldo (San Sebastián): 218–219
Monte Urgull (San Sebastián): 208, 217
Montjuïc (Barcelona): 52, 130–140; map, 132–133
Montjuïc Castle (Barcelona): 134
Montjuïc Communications Tower (Barcelona): 136
Montserrat: 188–198; eating, 197–198; history of, 193; map, 189; sights, 194–197; sleeping, 197; tourist information, 193–194; transportation, 190–192
Montserrat, Museum of: 196
Montserrat-Aeri Station: 190–192
Montserrat’s Escolania: 197
Monument a Colóm (Barcelona): 75, 106
Moorish Baths (Granada): 604–605, 607
Moors: 80, 280–281, 914; architecture, 921, 923; art, 618. See also specific sights
Morocco: 872–912; cuisine, 907; ferries, 869, 879–881, 887; itineraries, 878–879; map, 874; politics and safety, 874–875; tours, 881–883; women in, 890. See also Tangier
Mount Irago: 341–342
Movies, recommended: 955–956
Mozarabic Chapel (Toledo): 565
Murillo, Bartolomé: 246, 463, 668, 670, 675, 678, 679, 680, 699–700, 920–921; biographical sketch, 675; House (Sevilla), 671
Musée Basque (Bayonne): 269–270
Museo Arqueológico Nacional (Madrid): 443, 479
Museo Art Nouveau y Art Deco (Salamanca): 405
Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte (Granada): 606, 636
Museo da Catedral (Santiago): 363–365
Museo de América (Madrid): 443, 479
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente (Segovia): 538
Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao): 246
Museo de Bellas Artes (Sevilla): 673, 698–701
Museo de Burgos: 320
Museo de Historia (Madrid): 480
Museo de los Concilios y de la Cultura Visigoda (Toledo): 559, 570
Museo de Nerja: 818–819
Museo de San Isidoro (León): 334–336
Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo): 559, 566–568
Museo del Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza (Madrid): 442, 468–469
Museo del Baile Flamenco (Sevilla): 673, 697–698, 710
Museo del Bandolero (Ronda): 784
Museo del Ejército (Toledo): 559, 568–569
Museo del Greco (Toledo): 559, 572
Museo del Jamón (Madrid): 502–504
Museo del Traje (Madrid): 443, 480
Museo do Pobo Galego (Santiago): 369–370
Museo Joaquín Peinado (Ronda): 784
Museo Lara (Ronda): 783
Museo Nacional del Prado (Madrid): 442, 456–468; map, 457
Museo Naval: See Naval Museums
Museo Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Sevilla): 673, 697
Museo Sefardí (Toledo): 559, 572–574
Museo Sorolla (Madrid): 479–480
Museo Taurino (Madrid): 484
Museo Taurino (Sevilla): 672, 706
Museo Victorio Macho (Toledo): 559, 574–575
Museu Cau Ferrat (Sitges): 187
Museu de la Xocolata (Barcelona): 105
Museu del Calçat (Barcelona): 82, 91, 94
Museu d’Història de Barcelona: 87, 90–91
Museu Frederic Marès (Barcelona): 91
Museu Maricel (Sitges): 187
Museu Marítim (Barcelona): 87, 105
Museum of Al-Andalus Life (Córdoba): 744, 746
Museum of Basque Culture (Bayonne): 269–270
Museum of Human Evolution (Burgos): 319–320
Museum of Navarre (Pamplona): 296–297
Museum of Pilgrimages (Santiago): 369
Museum of San Telmo (San Sebastián): 213–214
Museum of the Americas (Madrid): 443, 479
Museum of the Galician People (Santiago): 369–370
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Barcelona): 86, 136–137
Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport (Barcelona): 135–136
Museu Picasso (Barcelona): 86, 94–95, 98–102
Museu Romàntic (Sitges): 187
Mutriku: 232
Mysticism Interpretation Center (Ávila): 548
National Archaeological Museum (Madrid): 443, 479
Naval Museums: Madrid, 443, 475; San Sebastián, 216–217; Sevilla, 694–695
Navarre, Museum of (Pamplona): 296–297
Nerja: 812–831; eating, 827–830; helpful hints, 813, 816; map, 814–815; nightlife, 824; sights/activities, 816–823; sleeping, 824–827; tourist information, 813; transportation, 813, 816, 830–831
Nerja Caves: 822
Nerja Coastal Promenade: 820
Nerja Museum: 818–819
New Bridge (Ronda): 779
Nightlife: budgeting, 8. See also specific destinations
Notre-Dame d’Aranazau (Ainhoa): 277
Notre-Dame Gate (St-Jean): 287
Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 439
Ocean Village (Gibraltar): 848, 852
O Cebreiro: 343–346; hiking, 283
O’Hara’s Battery (Gibraltar): 846
Old City (Barcelona): 47–48, 85, 88–94, 112; eating, 158–167; maps, 92–93, 160–161; self-guided walks, 65–85; sleeping, 152–153
Old Town (Arcos): 765–770; eating, 773–774; map, 766; sleeping, 771–773
Old Town (Bilbao): 239, 247–248; eating, 251–252; map, 249
Old Town (Granada): 598–605; map, 599
Old Town (San Sebastián): 208, 212–216; eating, 224, 226–228; map, 222–223; sleeping, 220
Old Town (Tangier): 885, 896–902; eating, 907–909; map, 893; nightlife, 903
Olive oil tour, around Granada: 598
Olympic and Sports Museum (Barcelona): 135–136
Olympic Stadium (Barcelona): 136
Orreaga: 291–292
Pabellón Mies van der Rohe (Barcelona): 139
Packing checklist: 961
Palace of Catalan Music (Barcelona): 86, 102–103, 145
Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra (Ronda): 785
Palacio de Cibeles (Madrid): 476, 498
Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra (Ronda): 785
Palacio de Mondragón (Ronda): 783
Palacio de Sobrellano (Comillas): 391
Palacio de Viana (Córdoba): 750–751
Palacio Episcopal (Astorga): 340
Palacio Real (Madrid): 439, 442, 445–454; eating near, 505–506
Palacios Nazaries (Granada): 610, 615–622; map, 616; tickets, 596–597
Palau Baró de Quadras (Barcelona): 120
Palau de la Generalitat (Barcelona): 83
Palau Güell (Barcelona): 74, 87, 112
Palau Maricel (Sitges): 187
Pallozas: 344
Pamplona: 292–308; eating, 306–307; map, 294–295; self-guided walk, 296–302; sights, 302–305; sleeping, 305–306; tourist information, 293, 296; transportation, 296, 307–308
Pamplona Airport: 296
Pamplona Cathedral: 302–303
Pamplona City Hall: 297–298
Pamplona Running of the Bulls: See Running of the Bulls
Paradores: 24; Arcos de la Frontera, 771, 773; Granada, 622–623, 644; Hondarribia, 231; Santiago de Compostela, 374, 377–378; Santillana, 384; Toledo, 584
Parc de la Ciutadella (Barcelona): 106–107
Park Güell (Barcelona): 86, 128–130
Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid): 442–443, 475
Partal Gardens (Granada): 621
Parte Vieja (San Sebastián): See Old Town
Paseo de la Castellana (Madrid): 481–482
Paseo de los Carabineros (Nerja): 820
Paseo de los Tristes (Granada): 603–604, 607, 649
Passeig del Born (Barcelona): 104, 144
Passports: 9
Patios: about, 752
Patio de Arrayanes (Granada): 616
Patio de Banderas (Sevilla): 668, 691
Patio de la Montería (Sevilla): 684–685
Patio de las Doncellas (Sevilla): 687
Patio de las Muñecas (Sevilla): 688–689
Patio de los Leones (Granada): 619
Patio de los Naranjos (Córdoba): 738
Patio de los Naranjos (Sevilla): 681
Pazo de Xelmírez (Santiago): 366
Pedrafita: 343
Peinado (Joaquín) Museum (Ronda): 784
Peine del Viento (San Sebastián): 219
Petit Socco (Tangier): 897
Phone numbers, useful: 936–937
Picasso, Pablo: 79–80, 196, 246, 921; biographical sketch, 96–97; Guernica, 235, 236, 472–474; guided tours, in Barcelona, 60–61; Museum (Barcelona), 86, 94–95, 98–102
Picos de Europa: 394–397
Pieros: 283
Pileta Cave: 786–787
Pilgrimages, Museum of (Santiago): 369
Pilgrimage to Saint James: See Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim Friends Office (St-Jean): 287–288
Pinotxo Bar (Barcelona): 72, 162
Pinsapar: 799
Pintxos: 205, 211, 212, 224–227, 251
Pizarro, Francisco: 918
Plaça de Catalunya (Barcelona): 47, 52, 68–69, 147
Plaça del Rei (Barcelona): 84, 90
Plaça de Sant Jaume (Barcelona): 83
Plaça Nova (Barcelona): 79
Plaça Reial (Barcelona): 73–74, 144
Plaça Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona): 81–82
Place de la Kasbah (Tangier): 902
Place Louis XIV (St-Jean-de-Luz): 259–260
Plague Monument (Córdoba): 744
Playa Calahonda (Nerja): 820
Playa Carabeo (Nerja): 820–821
Playa de Burriana (Nerja): 821, 829–830
Playa de la Concha (San Sebastián): 217–218
Playa del Cantarriján (Nerja): 821
Playa del Salón (Nerja): 821–822
Playa la Torrecilla (Nerja): 822
Plaza de Bib-Rambla (Granada): 600–601
Plaza de Doña Elvira (Sevilla): 672
Plaza de España (Madrid): 478
Plaza de España (Sevilla): 703
Plaza de Isabel II (Madrid): 441–442
Plaza de la Alianza (Sevilla): 672–673
Plaza de la Constitución (San Sebastián): 213
Plaza de la Encarnación (Sevilla): 697
Plaza de la Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 670
Plaza de las Tendillas (Córdoba): 750
Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes (Sevilla): 666–668
Plaza del Cabildo (Arcos): 765–766
Plaza del Castillo (Pamplona): 302
Plaza de los Venerables (Sevilla): 671
Plaza del Salvador (Sevilla): 696
Plaza del Socorro (Ronda): 790
Plaza del Triunfo (Sevilla): 668
Plaza de María Auxiliadora (Ronda): 783
Plaza de Oriente (Madrid): 439–440
Plaza de Refinadores (Sevilla): 670
Plaza de San Martín (Segovia): 534
Plaza de Toros (Madrid): 483–484
Plaza de Toros (Sevilla): 673, 705–706
Plaza de Zocodover (Toledo): 552, 565–566; map, 580; sleeping, 579–580
Plaza Isabel La Católica (Granada): 602–603
Plaza Larga (Granada): 635, 645
Plaza Mayor (Burgos): 320
Plaza Mayor (Madrid): 434–435, 442; eating, 506–507; map, 497; sleeping near, 492–493
Plaza Mayor (Salamanca): 401–402; eating, 412
Plaza Mayor (Segovia): 534–535, 541
Plaza Nueva (Granada): 590, 603, 633; eating, 647–649; sleeping, 639–640
Plaza Nueva (Sevilla): 695, 708
Plaza San Isidoro (León): 328–329
Plaza San Marcelo (León): 328
Plaza San Miguel el Bajo (Granada): 633, 646
Poble Espanyol (Barcelona): 139–140
Ponce de León, Juan: 918
Port Lligat: 183–184
Port Vell (Barcelona): 48
Post offices: 937. See also specific destinations
Potes: 395–396
Prado Museum (Madrid): 442, 456–468; eating near, 506; map, 457
Praza da Inmaculada (Santiago): 366
Praza da Quintana (Santiago): 366–367
Praza das Praterías (Santiago): 367
Praza do Obradoiro (Santiago): 356–358
Pronunciation guide: 962
Prostitution: 422–423
Puente Nuevo (Ronda): 779
Puente Romano (Salamanca): 407
Puente Viejo (Ronda): 785–786
Puerta del Sol (Madrid): 418, 430–434, 442; eating near, 507–508; map, 432–433; sleeping near, 494
Puerto Banús: 832
Puerto de Ibañeta: 291
Puig i Cadafalch, Josep: 78–79, 112, 113, 117, 120, 138, 139, 164, 197
Pyrenees: 291–292
Queensway Quay Marina (Gibraltar): 848, 852
Rabat (Morocco): 911
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rambla of Flowers (Barcelona): 71
Rambla of the Little Birds (Barcelona): 69–70
Ramblas (Barcelona): 48, 65, 68, 72, 86; eating, 158–163; map, 66–67; self-guided walk, 65–75; sleeping, 151–152
Reader feedback: 40
Real Fábrica de Tapices (Madrid): 480–481
Real Jardín Botánico (Madrid): 443, 475
Real Madrid: 484–485
Reina Sofía (Madrid): 442, 469–475
RENFE: See Train travel
Resources from Rick Steves: 951–952
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Retiro Park (Madrid): 442–443, 475
Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
Rif Cinema (Tangier): 895, 903
Roast suckling pig: 326, 411, 496, 541
Rock of Gibraltar: 842–846
Roma (Gypsies), of Granada: 635–638
Roman aqueducts: See Aqueducts, Roman
Roman Bridge (Córdoba): 744
Roman Bridge (Salamanca): 407
Romans, ancient: 347, 407, 479, 697, 744, 748, 913–914; Barcelona, 70, 79, 80, 84; Itálica, 704–705
Roncesvalles: 283, 284, 291–292
Roncevaux: 291
Ronda: 775–795; eating, 790–794; maps, 777, 791; sights, 779–787; sleeping, 788–790; tourist information, 776; tours, 778; transportation, 776, 778, 794–795
Route of the White Hill Towns: 761; map, 796
Royal Academy of Science and Arts (Barcelona): 69
Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art (Jerez): 803–804
Royal Botanical Garden (Madrid): 443, 475
Royal Chapel (Córdoba): 741–742
Royal Chapel (Granada): 606, 624–628
Royal Chapel (Madrid): 452
Royal Chapel (Sevilla): 680
Royal families of Spain: 440–441
Royal Palace (Madrid): 439, 442, 445–454; eating near, 505–506
Royal Pantheon (El Escorial): 524
Royal St. Mary’s Church (O Cebreiro): 344–345
Royal Tapestry Factory (Madrid): 480–481
Royal Theater (Madrid): 441
Rubens, Peter Paul: 213, 463, 564, 921
Rue de la République (St-Jean-de-Luz): 260–261
Rue Gambetta (St-Jean-de-Luz): 261–262
Running of the Bulls (Pamplona): 300–301; Monument, 302
Running of the Bulls, Museum of the (Pamplona): 298–299
Sacred Art Museum (Santiago): 367
Sacred Cave (Montserrat): 197
Sacromonte (Granada): 635–638
Sacromonte Cave Museum (Granada): 606, 636
Safety: See Theft alerts
Sagrada Família (Barcelona): 86, 120–128; map, 123
Sahagún: 326–327
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier): 895–896
St. Anthony Chapel (Sevilla): 680
Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne): 270
St. Ginès Church (Madrid): 444
St. James’ Gate of Forgiveness Church (Villafranca): 342
St. Jean-Baptiste Church (St-Jean-de-Luz): 262–263
St-Jean-de-Luz: 253–266; eating, 264–265; map, 258–259; sights, 257–263; sleeping, 263–264; transportation, 254, 265–266
St-Jean-Pied-de-Port: 286–291
St. Martin’s Monastery (Santiago): 366
St. Mary’s Church (O Cebreiro): 344–345
St. Mary’s Parish Church (Lekeitio): 232–233
St. Matthew Church (Tarifa): 858–859
St. Michael’s Cave (Gibraltar): 846–847
St. Pelayo Monastery (Santiago): 366–367
St. Peter’s Church (Arcos): 769–770
St. Teresa’s Convent (Ávila): 547–548
Salamanca: 398–414; eating, 411–413; helpful hints, 401; maps, 400, 409, 413; sights, 401–407; sleeping, 407–411; tourist information, 399; transportation, 399–401, 414
Salamanca Cathedrals: 402–403
Samos: 345
San Agustín Market (Granada): 650
San Antonio de la Florida, Hermitage of (Madrid): 443, 480
Sandeman (Jerez): 805–806
San Esteban Church (Salamanca): 405–406
San Fermín Txikito (Pamplona): 293, 297, 300–301
San Ildefonso Palace (Segovia): 538–539
San Isidoro Museum (León): 334–336
San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio (Toledo): 559, 575–576
San Lorenzo Church (Pamplona): 304–305
San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 520–525, 923; map, 521
San Miguel Market (Madrid): 436–437, 507
San Nicolás Viewpoint (Granada): 606, 633
San Pablo Airport (Sevilla): 657
San Pedro de Alcántara: 832
San Román Church (Toledo): 559, 570
San Salvador Church (Nerja): 818
San Saturnino Church (Pamplona): 304
San Sebastián: 206–230; eating, 224–228; helpful hints, 209–210; maps, 214–215, 222–223; planning tips, 207; sights, 212–219; sleeping, 220–224; tourist information, 208; tours, 211–212; transportation, 208–209, 211, 228–230
San Sebastián Airport: 209
San Sebastián Aquarium: 217
San Sebastián Port: 208, 216–217
Santa Ana Church (Sevilla): 704
Santa Anna Church (Barcelona): 78
Santa Caterina Market (Barcelona): 87, 103
Santa Cova (Montserrat): 197
Santa Cruz (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo): 559, 566–568
Santa Eulàlia (Barcelona): 105–106
Santa María Church (Arcos): 766–768
Santa Maria del Mar Church (Barcelona): 87, 103–104
Santa Maria del Pi (Barcelona): 72, 142, 146
Santa María la Mayor Church (Ronda): 782–783
Santa María la Real (O Cebreiro): 344–345
Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla Church (Sitges): 187
San Telmo Museoa (San Sebastián): 213–214
Sant Felip Neri Church (Barcelona): 81–82
Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao): 247
Santiago de Compostela: 349–379; eating, 375–379; entertainment, 370; helpful hints, 352–353; maps, 354–355, 372–373; planning tips, 350; sights, 356–370; sleeping, 371–375; tourist information, 350; tours, 353; transportation, 351–352, 379
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral: 356–363; Museum, 363–365
Santiago de Compostela City Hall: 357
Santillana del Mar: 383–384
Santiponce: 704–705
Sant Joan Chapel (Montserrat): 196–197
Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 312–313
Santo Domingo de Silos: 322
Santos Justo y Pastor Church (Segovia): 538
Santo Tomé (Toledo): 559, 571–572, 577, 586
Sants Station (Barcelona): 54, 172–174
San Vicente de la Barquera: 393
Sardana dances: 62, 86, 89, 193
Sare (Sara): 276–277
Sartre, Jean-Paul: 383
Seasons: 8–9
Segovia: 529–544; eating, 540–542; map, 532–533; sights, 531, 534–539; sleeping, 539–540
Segovia Cathedral: 535–536
Semana Santa: See Holy Week
Sevilla: 652–732; at a glance, 672–673; eating, 720–730; experiences, 705–707; helpful hints, 658–660; itineraries, 654; nightlife, 709–712; self-guided walk, 665–673; shopping, 707–709; sights, 674–705; sleeping, 712–720; tourist information, 655; tours, 660–665; transportation, 655–658, 730–732
Sevilla Card: 655
Sevilla Cathedral: 672, 674–680; map, 676
Sevilla City Hall: 695
Ship Room (Granada): 617
Shoe Museum (Barcelona): 82, 91, 94
Shopping: budgeting, 8; clothing sizes, 959; hours, 12; VAT refunds, 17–18. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Siege Tunnels (Gibraltar): 847
Sierra de Atapuerca: 321–322
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park: 797–801; map, 800
Sierra-Pambley Museum (León): 334
Sightseeing (sights): at a glance, 10–11; budgeting, 8; general tips, 18–20; priorities, 8; whirlwind three-week tour, 6–7. See also specific sights and destinations
Silla de Felipe: 519
Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo): 559, 572–574
Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca (Toledo): 559, 575
Sitges: 185–188
Sleep code: 21
Sleeping: 20–27; budgeting, 5, 8; rates and deals, 20, 22; reservations, 9, 26–27; types of accommodations, 22–25. See also Paradores; and specific destinations
Smartphones: 9–10, 929, 932–934
Sobrino del Botín (Madrid): 496
Soccer: xix; Barcelona, 141; Madrid, 444, 484–485
Sorolla (Joaquín) Museum (Madrid): 479–480
South Coast: See Costa del Sol
Spanish Basque Country: 206–252; cuisine, 205
Spanish Civil War: overview, 527
Spanish guitars, shopping for: 146, 486
Spanish language: See Language
Spanish restaurant phrases: 964
Spanish survival phrases: 963
Spanish Village (Barcelona): 139–140
Special events: See Festivals
Stradivarius (Antonius) Room (Madrid): 452–453
Subway: See Metro
Tajo River Gorge: 558, 779, 784–785
Tales of the Alhambra (Irving): 621, 955
TALGO: See Train travel
Tangier (Morocco): 883–910; eating, 907–909; excursions: from Gibraltar, 839; from Tarifa, 858; ferries, 869, 879–881, 887; helpful hints, 888–889; maps, 885, 893; nightlife, 884–885, 903; planning tips, 884; sights, 892–903; sleeping, 903–907; tourist information, 886; tours, 881–883, 889, 891–892; transportation, 887–888, 909–910
Tangier Airport (Morocco): 887
Tangier American Legation Museum (Morocco): 900–901
Tangier Anglican Church (Morocco): 895–896
Tangier Beach (Morocco): 903
Tapas: 33–38; glossary of terms, 34–36, 225. See also Pintxos; and specific destinations
Tàpies (Antoni) Foundation (Barcelona): 119–120
Tarifa: 854–870; eating, 864–868; ferries, 869, 879–881, 887; helpful hints, 855, 858; map, 856–857; nightlife, 861; sights, 858–861; sleeping, 861–864; tourist information, 855; transportation, 855, 868–870
Taxes: VAT refunds, 17–18
Taxis: 945–946; tipping, 17. See also specific destinations
Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres): 178–182
Teatro Real (Madrid): 441
Teleféricos: See Funiculars
Telephone cards: 935–936
Telephone numbers, useful: 936–937
Telephones: 928–936; Morocco, 888
Temperatures, average monthly: 959
Temple of Augustus (Barcelona): 84
Temple of Debod (Madrid): 481
Teresa of Ávila, Saint: 544, 547–548, 671, 918
Terramar Gardens (Sitges): 187
Terrorism Memorial (Madrid): 511
Theft alerts: 11–12, 54, 422, 594; Morocco, 874–875
Third of May, 1808 (Goya): 466–467
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid): 442, 468–469
Tibidabo (Barcelona): 140–141
Tiepolo, Giambattista: 447, 448–449
Tipping: 16–17
Titian: 464–465, 524, 525, 564, 921
Toledo: 551–587; at a glance, 559; eating, 584–586; helpful hints, 557; history of, 555; maps, 554, 556, 580, 582; shopping, 578; sights, 558–578; sleeping, 579–584; tourist information, 553; tours, 557–558; transportation, 553–557, 586–587
Toledo Cathedral: 558–565
Torre del Oro (Sevilla): 694–695
Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 435–436, 506
Torremolinos: 832
Tour guides: 9; tipping, 17. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 927–928. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 953. See also specific destinations
Trafalgar cemetery (Gibraltar): 839
Train travel: 938–945; AVE trains, 54, 173–174, 421, 509–512, 529–530, 543, 587, 650, 730–731, 734, 760, 940–941; budgeting, 5; contact info, 936; map, 942–943; overnight trains, 9, 944; tickets, 940–941; whirlwind three-week tour, 6–7. See also specific destinations
Transportation: 938–951; budgeting, 5; map, 942–943. See also Boat travel and cruises; and specific destinations
Travel advisories: 936
Travel insurance: 9
Travel smarts: 4
Treasury (Córdoba): 742
Treasury Museum (Sevilla): 702–703
Trenhotels: 944–945
Triana (Sevilla): 672, 703–704, 711; eating, 721, 724
Triumphal Arch (Córdoba): 744
Tuna music, in Salamanca: 407
Universidad Pontificia (Comillas): 391–393
University of Salamanca: 404–405
University of Sevilla: 703
Valley of the Fallen (Valle de los Caídos): 526–529
Van der Rohe (Mies) Pavilion (Barcelona): 139
VAT refunds: 17–18
Vejer de la Frontera: 808
Velázquez, Diego: 101–102, 524, 564, 692, 699, 920; Prado Museum (Madrid), 461–462
Vera Cruz Church (near Segovia): 538
Vicente (Esteban) Museum (Segovia): 538
Villafranca del Bierzo: 342–343; hiking, 283
Villa Quijano (Comillas): 389, 391
Villaviciosa Chapel (Córdoba): 741
Virgen de la Macarena: 701–702
Virgin Antigua Chapel (Sevilla): 678
Virgin Rock (Biarritz): 275
Visigothic Museum (Toledo): 559, 570
Visigothic Ruins (Córdoba): 740
Visitor information: 927–928. See also specific destinations
Walking trails: See Hiking
Washington Irving Room (Granada): 621
Weeping Virgin (Sevilla): 701–702
Whale watching, in Tarifa: 860
White hill towns of Andalucía: 761–809; maps, 762, 796
Windsurfing: 808; Tarifa, 854, 860–861, 867–868
Wine and vineyards: 38–39; La Rioja, 310–311, 312. See also Sherry
Wine Gate (Granada): 623
World Expo Fairgrounds (Barcelona): 52, 87, 138–139
World War II Tunnels (Gibraltar): 848
Yeguada de la Cartuja: 807
Yemas: 548
Ysios: 311
Zahara castle: 797
Zahara de la Sierra: 795–797
Zambra dance, in Granada: 607, 637–638
Zarzuela, in Madrid: 443, 486–487
Zurbarán, Francisco de: 246, 675, 700
Zurriola Beach (San Sebastián): 219