| A | B | C | D | |
| E | F | G | H | |
| I | J | K | L | |
| M | N | O | P | |
| R | S | T | U | |
| V | W | Y | Z |
Aalto, Alvar, 21, 22, 599, 602, 604, 613, 616, 622, 633
Aarhus, 178–197; eating, 194–196; helpful hints, 182; map, 178–182, 180–181; planning tips, 177; sights/activities, 187–192; sleeping, 193–194; tourist information, 178; transportation, 179, 182, 196–197; walking tour, 182–187
Aarhus Art Museum (ARos), 187–189
Aarhus Canal, 187; eating, 195–196
Aarhus Card, 182
Aarhus Cathedral, 183–184
Aarhus Open-Air Museum, 187, 189–191
Aarhus Theater, 185
ABBA, 21, 23, 506, 529; Museum (Stockholm), 455, 474–475
Academic Bookstore (Helsinki), 599, 622
Accommodations. See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Ægir Bryggeri (Flåm), 307
Ærø, 147–168; biking tour, 156–161; eating, 165–167; maps, 147, 156; planning tips, 146–147, 149; sleeping, 163–164; transportation, 148, 167–168
Ærø Brewery, 160
Ærø Museum, 154–155
Ærøskøbing, 148–168; eating, 165–167; helpful hints, 149–150; map, 151; nightlife, 161–162; orientation, 149–150; planning tips, 149; sights/activities, 154–161; sleeping, 163–164; tourist information, 149; transportation, 167–168; walking tour, 150–154
Ærø-Svendborg Ferry, 167–168
Af Chapman Hostel (Stockholm), 488
Airfares (airlines), 5, 6, 746, 755–756
Airports: carry-on restrictions, 11, 14; Bergen, 364; Copenhagen, 40; Helsinki, 588; Oslo, 219–220; Stavanger, 406; Stockholm, 434–435, 502; Tallinn, 654
Aker Brygge (Oslo), 225, 235, 236, 239–240; eating, 282–283
Akersgata (Oslo), 262
Akershus Castle (Oslo), 240–241
Akershus Fortress Complex (Oslo), 235, 240–242; eating, 282
Akers River, 260–264, 265, 269
Akvavit, 733
Åland Islands, 634–635
Alcohol, 6, 272, 476, 479, 522, 720–721, 733
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn), 667–668
Amagertorv (Copenhagen), 57–60, 97, 112
Amaliehaven Park (Copenhagen), 63
Amalienborg Palace (Copenhagen), 63–64, 79; Changing of the Guard, 79, 86
Amalienborg Palace Museum (Copenhagen), 59, 64, 79
Åmotbrua (Oslo), 264
Amundsen, Roald, 20, 258, 266, 709
Amusement parks: Bakken (Copenhagen), 96; Gröna Lund (Stockholm), 476; Legoland (Billund), 198–201; Linnanmåki (Helsinki), 607; Tivoli Friheden Amusement Park (Aarhus), 192; Tivoli Gardens (Copenhagen), 51, 58, 66–68, 97; Tusenfryd (Oslo), 269-270
Andersen, Hans Christian, 20, 22, 51, 65–66, 69, 168, 708, 759; biographical sketch, 48–49; House (Odense), 170–172; tours, in Copenhagen, 46, 47
Andersen, Morten, 20
Antiques, shopping for, 96, 432, 624
Aquadome (Billund), 200
Aquariums: Balestrand, 325; Bergen, 371, 386–387; Stockholm, 470
Archaeological sites, 160, 191–192, 267–268, 355, 383, 514, 516-517, 575, 701. See also Rune stones; Vikings
Archipelago (Stockholm), 518–538; cruises, 519–522, 634–637; helpful hints, 522; map, 520; planning tips, 519–520
Arctic cruises, 401–402
Ardal Church (Grendi), 419
Århus. See Aarhus
Årjäng, 502
Arlanda Airport (Stockholm), 434–435, 502
Armed Forces Museum (Oslo), 242
ARoS (Aarhus Art Museum), 187–189
Art. See specific artists and art museums
Astrup Fearnley Museum (Oslo), 235, 236
Ateneum (Helsinki), 593, 600–601, 605, 610, 612
ATMs: about, 714–718; Ærøskøbing, 149; Copenhagen, 39, 40, 119; Helsinki, 589, 639; Jotunheimen Mountains, 353; Lom, 333, 353; Lustrafjord, 333; Oslo, 219; at sea, 120, 637; Stockholm’s Archipelago, 522; Tallinn, 654; Växjö, 542
Audio Europe, Rick Steves, 11, 758
Aurland, 302, 312–315, 343–344
Aurlandsvegen “Snow Road”, 309–310, 343–344
Back Door travel philosophy, 16
Backer, Harriet, 386
Bakken (Copenhagen), 96
Balestrand, 320–333; eating, 330–331; map, 322; orientation, 321–323; planning tips, 321; sights/activities, 323–328; sleeping, 328–330; tourist information, 321–323; transportation, 331–333, 343, 344–345
Balestrand Aquarium, 325
Balestrand harbor, 321, 323–324
Baltic Sea: cruises, 634–641; map, 635
Balti Jaam Market (Tallinn), 686, 695
Båtservice (Oslo), 222
Battery Park (Vaxholm), 525
Beaches: Ærø, 157, 159, 161–162; Bergen, 388; Grinda, 527; Kalmar, 564, 566; Kristiansand, 419; Öland, 572; Oslo, 255, 269; Sandhamn, 536; Tallinn, 682; Vaxholm, 525
Beer, 6, 62, 166, 272, 279, 493, 496, 732, 733; Ærø Brewery, 160; Carlsberg Brewery (Copenhagen), 95; Nyhavn Kiosk (Copenhagen), 62; Taste of Stockholm festival, 450. See also Pubs
Beer halls, in Stockholm, 496
Berg, Claus, 158
Bergen, 360–402; eating, 396–400; helpful hints, 365; history of, 376–377, 380–381; maps, 361, 368–369, 394–395; orientation, 362–366; planning tips, 361–362; shopping, 387–388; sights/activities, 381–391; sleeping, 391–396; tourist information, 363; tours, 366–367, 370; transportation, 291–297, 298–299, 304, 331–333, 344–345, 363–365, 365–366, 401–402; walking tour, 367–381
Bergen Card, 363
Bergen Cathedral, 385
Bergen City Museum, 381
Bergen Fish Market, 362, 363, 370, 378, 398, 399–400
Bergen Hanseatic Quarter. See Bryggen (Bergen)
Bergen harbor tour, 370
Bergenhus Fortress (Bergen), 370–371, 371–373, 382–383
Bergenhus Rampart (Bergen), 372–373
Bergen Public Library, 365
Bergman, Ingmar, 21, 22, 763–764
Besseggen, 357
Biblioteksgatan (Stockholm), 479
Biking (bike rentals): Ærø, 150, 156–161; Balestrand, 326; Copenhagen, 44–45, 50; Djurgården, 467; Flåm Valley, 308; Grinda, 529; Helsinki, 589; Hovden, 415; Kalmar, 557; Lustrafjord, 339; Öland, 573–574; Oslo, 217, 221, 224, 269; Sandhamn, 535; Stockholm, 440–441, 467, 476–477; Svartsö, 531; Tallinn, 656, 658, 660; Urnes, 339
Billund, 198–201; Legoland, 198–201; sleeping, 200–201
“Black Diamond” Library (Copenhagen), 41, 77–78
Blasieholmen (Stockholm), 464
Blix, Hans, 21
Boating: Flåm, 307–308; Hovden, 415. See also Canoeing and kayaking
Boat travel and cruises, 750; best three-week trip, 10; map, 635, 747; reservations, 11; Balestrand, 294, 331–332; Baltic Sea, 634–641; Bergen, 294, 331–332, 364–365, 367, 370, 401–402; Copenhagen, 44, 47–48, 98, 118–121, 287–288; Fjærlandsfjord, 327–328; Flåm, 300–302, 307–308, 331–332; Gudvangen, 300–302, 342–343; Helsinki, 584, 587–588, 634–641, 697–699; Hirtshals, 177, 196–197, 401, 416–417, 750; Kristiansand, 416–417; Lustrafjord, 342–343; Lysefjord, 409–410; Nærøyfjord, 302, 307–308; Oslo, 120–121, 222, 286–288, 294, 331–332; Sigtuna, 509; Sognefjord, 294, 297–298, 300–302, 331–332; Stavanger, 406, 412–413; Stockholm, 436–437, 439–440, 494, 501–502, 634–637, 697; Stockholm archipelago, 519–522, 523; Tallinn, 638, 653, 697–699; Turku, 638. See also Ferries
Bogstadveien (Oslo), 225, 232, 272
Books, recommended, 758–763
Border crossings, 11
Borg, Björn, 21
Borge, Victor, 20
Borgholm, 574–575
Borgholm Castle, 574
Borgnæs, 157
Borgund Stave Church, 310–311
Børsen (Copenhagen), 60–61
Bottle Peter Museum (Ærø), 155
Bøverdal, 357, 358; sleeping, 356
Bregninge, 158–159
Bregninge Church (Ærø), 157–158
Bregningemark, 157
Breheimsenteret Glacier Information Center, 335–336
Breiavatnet, Lake, 406
Breidablikk (Stavanger), 409
Breivik, Anders Behring, 262-263
Bronze Soldier, The (Tallinn), 674–675
Brotherhood of the Black Heads (Tallinn), 663–664
Bryggebroen (Copenhagen), 94–95
Bryggen (Bergen), 362–363, 374–378; eating, 396–400; guided tours, 366–367, 370; history of, 376–377, 380–381; map, 368–369; walking tour, 366, 370
Bryggens Museum (Bergen), 370, 383
Buar, 413
Buarbreen, 413
Budgeting, 5–7. See also Money-saving tips
Buses, 750; map, 747; Aarhus, 182; Ærø, 148; Bergen, 363–364, 367, 401; Copenhagen, 42–43, 49–50, 118, 119; Helsinki, 588, 590, 634; Kalmar, 571; Lustrafjord, 342; Oslo, 221–222, 223–224, 286; Sognefjord, 292, 302–303, 302–303; Stavanger, 406; Stockholm, 433–434, 436, 437–439, 499–500, 501, 502; Tallinn, 654, 656, 657–660, 696–697; Växjö, 547
Business hours, 714
Bygdøy (Oslo), 217, 254–260; map, 255
Bykle, 418
Bymuseet, 381
Byporten (Oslo), 219, 226, 272
Cabs. See Taxis
Café Kappeli (Helsinki), 598
Camping, 727–729; Ærø, 164; Balestrand, 330; Flåm, 311–312; Grinda, 529; Kvam, 351–352; Lustrafjord, 340
Canoeing and kayaking, 307, 337, 340, 415, 529, 530–531, 535
Car insurance, 752–754
Car leasing, 754
Carlsberg Brewery (Copenhagen), 95
Carolina Rediviva (Stockholm), 514–515
Car rentals, 750–752
Carriages Museum (Copenhagen), 75
Carta Marina (Uppsala), 515
Car travel (driving), 746, 750–755; best three-week trip, 8–9; budgeting, 6; distance and time, 753; road signs, 754; Aarhus, 197; Aurlandsvegen “Snow Road”, 309–310, 343–344; Bergen, 364; Copenhagen, 145, 176; Gudbrandsdal Valley, 350; Jotunheimen Mountains, 356–359; Kalmar, 549, 572; Kristiansand, 420–421; Lustrafjord, 333–334; Odense, 176; Öland, 573–574; Oslo, 286; Sognefjord, 309–310, 333–334, 343–345; Southeast Sweden, 540; Stockholm, 435, 502; Tallinn, 656; Växjö, 549
Castles: architecture, 704–705. See also specific castles
Cathedral of Our Lady (Copenhagen), 55–56
Cathedrals. See Churches and cathedrals; and specific cathedrals
CDW insurance, 752–753
Cell (mobile) phones, 11, 734–735, 737, 740–746
CentralBadet Spa (Stockholm), 482
Central Denmark, 146–176; map, 147
Changing of the Guard: Copenhagen, 79, 86; Stockholm, 454, 456–457
Chapel of Silence (Helsinki), 601, 612
Cheese, 309, 315, 730, 731, 733. See also Goat cheese
Christiania (Copenhagen), 58, 89–94; eating, 94, 115; maps, 90; nightlife, 97
Christiania (Oslo), 242
Christian IV, 27, 34, 80–85, 128–129, 132, 134–137, 142, 215, 229, 242, 706
Christiansborg Palace (Copenhagen), 58, 60, 73–75; eating, 107
Christianshavn (Copenhagen), 35, 61, 87–94; eating, 113–115; maps, 104
Christmas markets/shops, 67, 271, 444–445
Churches and cathedrals: Aarhus Cathedral, 183–184; Ardal Church (Grendi), 419; Bergen Cathedral, 385; Bregninge Church (Ærø), 157–158; Cathedral of Our Lady (Copenhagen), 55–56; Church of Our Lady (Aarhus), 186; Church of the Holy Ghost (Tallinn), 664; Dale Church (Luster), 334–335; Dome Church (Tallinn), 669; Frederikskirke (Copenhagen), 64; Gamla Uppsala Church, 516, 517; Gamle Aker Church (Oslo), 263; German Church (Stockholm), 447; Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral, 592, 609; Kallio Church (Helsinki), 607; Kalmar Cathedral, 565–566; Marble Church (Copenhagen), 64; Mariakyrkan (Sigtuna), 509; Oslo Cathedral, 227–228; Our Savior’s Church (Copenhagen), 59, 88–89; Ribe Cathedral, 204; Riddarholmen Church (Stockholm), 462; Roskilde Cathedral, 126–130; Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Tallinn), 658, 667–668; Sankt Peders Church (Copenhagen), 55; St. Mary’s Church (Bergen), 373–374; St. Nicholas Church (Tallinn), 658, 665–666; St. Olaf ’s Church (Balestrand), 324; St. Olaf’s Church (Sigtuna), 509; St. Olav’s Church (Tallinn), 662; Stavanger Cathedral, 407; Stockholm Cathedral, 445–446; Store Rise Church (Ærø), 160; Temppeliaukio Church (Helsinki), 592, 604, 614–615; Undredal Church, 315; Uppsala Cathedral, 512–513; Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral (Helsinki), 592, 608–609; Växjö Cathedral, 544–545. See also Stave churches
Church of Our Lady (Aarhus), 186
Church of the Holy Ghost (Tallinn), 664
Cinderella Båtarna, 520–521
Cinemas, 162, 221, 323, 419, 451, 481
City Pass (Copenhagen), 42
Clothing sizes, 769
Color Line, 196–197, 416, 417, 419, 750
Constitution Day (Norway), 210, 230, 281, 766
Copenhagen, 33–121; at a glance, 58–59; eating, 106–118; excursion areas, 122–145; helpful hints, 41–42; history of, 34, 47, 700–711; layout of, 35, 38; maps, 36–37, 52–53, 100–101, 104, 108–109; nightlife, 97–98; orientation, 35, 38; planning tips, 33–35; shopping, 96–97; sights/activities, 66–96; sleeping, 98–106; tourist information, 38; tours, 46–50; transportation, 38–40, 42–45, 118–121; walking tour, 50–66
Copenhagen Central Library, 41
Copenhagen City Hall, 50, 51, 58–59, 68–69
Copenhagen Jazz Festival, 41–42, 767
Copenhagen Open-Air Folk Museum, 95–96
Copenhagen Opera House, 63, 89
Copenhagen University, 54, 56–57; eating, 106–107
Costs of trip, 5–7
Credit cards, 11, 714–718, 753
Cruises. See Boat travel and cruises
Cuisine. See Cheese; Chocolate; Eating; Markets; Smörgåsbord; Smørrebrød; Wienerbrød; and specific destinations
Currency and exchange, 715–718; Denmark, 29, 149, 715; Estonia, 645, 654, 715; Finland, 580, 589, 715; Norway, 209, 221, 715; Sweden, 427, 715. See also ATMs
Customs regulations, 720–721
Cycling. See Biking
Czarina’s Stone (Helsinki), 594
Dagmar Cross, 72
Dahl, Johan Christian, 87, 243–245, 386, 708
Dale Church (Luster), 334–335
Dammar Vatnedalsvatn, 418
Dance of Life (Munch), 248–249
Danish Jewish Museum (Copenhagen), 59, 78
Danish King’s Garden (Tallinn), 667
Danish Lake District, 203–204
Danish language, 30; survival phrases, 32
Danish Parliament (Copenhagen), 60, 73
Danish Railway Museum (Odense), 173–174
Danish Resistance, Museum of (Copenhagen), 80
Danish Tax-Free Shopping, 96
Dannebrog (Tallinn), 666–667
Data roaming and smartphones, 734–735, 737, 740–742
Den Fynske Landsby Open-Air Museum (Odense), 174
Den Gamle By (Aarhus), 187, 189–191
Den Lille Havfrue (Copenhagen), 64, 65–66
Denmark, 26–204; at a glance, 12; almanac, 28–29; currency, 29, 715; famous figures, 20; history of, 700–711; map, 27; overview, 26–31. See also specific destinations
Denmark National Gallery (Copenhagen), 59, 86–87
Department stores: Copenhagen, 96, 97; Helsinki, 600, 622, 634; Oslo, 272; Stockholm, 450, 452, 479, 498
Design, 23; Copenhagen, 97; Helsinki, 593, 608, 615–617, 621–624; Oslo, 225, 271; Stockholm, 452, 466, 479–480. See also Glassware
Design District (Helsinki): eating, 632–633; shopping, 623–624
Design Museum (Helsinki), 593, 615–617
DesignTorget (Stockholm), 452, 479, 480
“Desolation Row” (Oslo), 227
Destination Stockholm, 482
Det Gylne Hus (Balestrand), 324–325
Dinesen, Isak. See Blixen, Karen
Dining. See Eating; and specific destinations
Discounts. See Money-saving tips
Djurgården (Stockholm), 432, 436–437, 467–477; map, 467
Dome Church (Tallinn), 669
Dragør (Copenhagen), 96
Drammen, 298
Driving. See Car travel (driving)
Drøbak (Oslo), 270–271
Drottninggatan (Stockholm), 481, 482; eating, 498
Drottningholm Court Theater (Stockholm), 503, 507–508
Drottningholm Palace Park (Stockholm), 507
Drottningholm Palace (Stockholm), 503–508; orientation, 504–506; transportation, 504
DSB Rejsebureau, 41
Eating, 729–734; budgeting, 6–7; tipping, 719. See also Markets; Smörgåsbord; and specific destinations
Eckerö Line, 698–699
Economy: Denmark, 29; Estonia, 645; Finland, 580; Norway, 208–209; Sweden, 426–427
Edberg, Stefan, 21
Edvard Grieg’s Home (Troldhaugen), 371, 389–390
Edvard Munch Museum (Oslo), 235, 268
Eidsvoll Manor (Oslo), 270
Ekeberg Sculpture Park (Oslo), 235, 267–268
Eketorp Prehistoric Fort, 575
Electricity, 714
Elsinore Castle (Helsingør), 140–144
Elvesæter, 358; sleeping, 355–356
E-mail. See Internet access
Embassies, 765–766
Embassy Row (Helsinki), 608
Emergencies, 713, 715, 765–766; Copenhagen, 41; Stockholm, 435
Emigration, 427, 578; House of Emigrants (Växjö), 543–544
Engangsgrill (“one-time grills”), 279
English Bookshop (Stockholm), 435
Entertainment: budgeting, 7; Ærøskøbing, 161–162; Bergen, 391; Copenhagen, 97–98; Stockholm, 480–482; Tallinn, 686–687
Erdal, 343–344
Ericsson Globe (Stockholm), 477
Eselfjord, 331
Esplanade (Helsinki), 584, 586, 598–599; cafés, 632; shopping, 622
Estonia, 644–699; at a glance, 13; almanac, 645; currency, 645, 654, 715; history of, 644, 700–711; map, 646; overview, 644–647. See also Tallinn
Estonian History Museum (Tallinn), 658, 664, 672
Estonian language, 647; survival phrases, 648
Estonian Open-Air Museum (Tallinn), 659, 684–685
Estonian Parliament (Tallinn), 668
Eurail passes, 11, 747, 749, 757
Evje, 419
Exchange rates, 715–718
Fantoft Stave Church (Paradis), 371, 390
Fat Margaret Tower (Tallinn), 660–662
Fearnley, Thomas, 245
Feigumfoss waterfall, 333, 340
Ferries: Ærø-Svendborg, 167–168; Balestrand, 327–328; Bergen, 331–332, 366; Copenhagen, 41; Dragsvik-Hella, 331, 333, 344–345; Grinda, 528; Helsingør-Helsingborg, 145; Helsinki, 587–588, 697–699; Hillerød, 138; Hirtshals, 196–197, 416–417, 750; Kaupanger-Gudvangen, 342–343; Kristiansand, 416–417, 420; Kvanndal-Utne, 420; Lustrafjord, 342–343; Mannheller-Fodnes, 332, 342–343, 343–344; Oslo, 120–121, 287–288, 294; Stockholm, 436–437; Stockholm archipelago, 519–522; Tallinn, 697–699; Urnes, 337, 338; Vangsnes, 331, 334, 344–345; Vaxholm, 522–523. See also Boat travel and cruises
Films, recommended, 758–764
Finland, 578–641; at a glance, 13; almanac, 580; currency, 580, 589, 715; famous figures, 21; history of, 578–579, 585, 700–711; map, 579; overview, 578–581. See also Helsinki
Finlandia Hall (Helsinki), 604, 613
Finland National Gallery (Helsinki), 593, 600–601, 605, 610, 612
Finland National Museum (Helsinki), 593, 604, 613–614
Finlayson (Helsinki), 622
Finnish language, 581, 585, 586; survival phrases, 582
Finnish National Opera House (Helsinki), 607
Finnish National Theater (Helsinki), 601, 605
Finse, 298
Fish. See Fish markets; Herring
Fishermen’s Quarter (Vaxholm), 524
Fish markets: Bergen, 362, 363, 370, 378, 398, 399–400; Helsinki, 624; Kristiansand, 420; Stavanger, 404, 406; Våstervik, 572
Fisketorget (Bergen), 362, 363, 370, 378, 398, 399–400
Fjærland, 327–328
Fjærlandsfjord, 327–328
Fjords: about, 301. See also Norway fjords; Sognefjord
FjordSafari, 307–308
Flag: Denmark, 29, 667; Estonia, 645; Finland, 580; Norway, 209; Sweden, 427
Flåm, 297–298, 305–312; eating, 312; map, 306; orientation, 305–306; sights/activities, 306–311; sleeping, 311–312; tourist information, 305–306
Flåm Railway Museum, 306
Flåmsbana, 294, 296–297, 297–298, 299–300
Flåm Valley, 308
Flaske-Peters Samling (Ærøskøbing), 155
Flateland, 418
Flea markets. See Markets
Flesland Airport (Bergen), 364
Fløibanen Funicular (Bergen), 363, 370, 384–385, 388–389, 398–399
Folk museums. See Open-air museums
Folk music/dancing, 256, 389–390, 468–469, 583
Food. See Cheese; Chocolate; Eating; Markets; Pølse (sausage); Smörgåsbord; Smørrebrød; Wienerbrød; and specific destinations
Forest Cemetery (Tallinn), 682–683
Forsvarsmuseet (Oslo), 242
Fortress Museum (Bergen), 382–383
Fortun, 358
Fram Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 258
Frederiksborg Castle, 132–138; orientation, 133–134; self-guided tour, 134–138; transportation, 133
Frederikskirke (Copenhagen), 64
Fredrikinkatu (Helsinki): shopping, 623–624
Freedom Square (Tallinn), 673
Frihamnen (Stockholm), 501–502, 636–637
Frihavnen (Copenhagen), 118–119, 120
Frihedsmuseet (Copenhagen), 80
Frilandsmuseets. See Open-air museums
Frognerbadet (Oslo), 270
Frogner Park (Oslo), 217, 225, 234, 250–253; eating, 283–284
Frognerseteren Hovedrestaurant (Oslo), 267, 285
Funen Village (Odense), 174
Funicular, in Bergen, 363, 370, 384–385, 388–389, 398–399
Fyrtøjet (Odense), 173
Galdhøpiggen, 357
Gallerian Mall (Stockholm), 450–451, 479
Galleriet (Bergen), 388
Gamla Kungsgatan (Kalmar), 563
Gamla Kyrkogården (Kalmar), 563–564
Gamla Stan (Kalmar), 556, 562–564
Gamla Stan (Stockholm), 432, 452–462; eating, 490, 492, 494; guided tours, 440; maps, 442, 491; nightlife, 480–481; sleeping, 487–488; walking tour, 441–449
Gamla Stan (Tallinn). See Old Town (Tallinn)
Gamla Uppsala, 516–517
Gamla Uppsala Church, 516, 517
Gamle Aker Church (Oslo), 263
Gamle Bergen, 362–363, 371, 387
Gamle Stavanger, 408–409
Gammelgård, 157
Gammeltorv (Copenhagen), 57, 107, 110
Garbo, Greta, 21
Gefion Fountain (Copenhagen), 64
Geilo, 298
Geitost. See Goat cheese
Geography: Denmark, 28; Estonia, 645; Finland, 580; Norway, 208; Sweden, 426
German Church (Stockholm), 447
Gettlinge Gravfält (Öland), 575
Gjendesheim, 357
Glaciers: about, 301; Jostedal Glacier, 327–328; Nigard Glacier, 328, 335–337; Norwegian Glacier Museum (Fjærland), 328
GlasMagasinet (Oslo), 225–226, 272
Glass Country (Sweden), 548–555
Glassware: about, 550–551; Glasriket Pass, 548, 549; glassworks, 549, 552–554; Swedish Glass Museum (Växjö), 542–543
Glittertinden, 357
Goat cheese (geitost), 210, 308, 315, 413, 730, 731
Gokstad (Oslo), 257
Golden House (Balestrand), 324–325
Gol Stave Church (Oslo), 256
Göta Canal, 572
Götgatan (Stockholm), 480, 494–495
Government, 710–711; Denmark, 29; Estonia, 645; Finland, 580; Norway, 209; Sweden, 427
Gråbrødretorv (Copenhagen), 57–58, 117
Grand Hotel (Oslo), 231
Grasbrokke, 418
Grauballe Man, 701
Great Guild Hall (Tallinn), 664
Grendi, 419
Grieg, Edvard, 20, 22, 371, 380, 708, 762, 767; Troldhaugen, 371, 389–390
Grieg’s Home (Troldhaugen), 371, 389–390
Grinda, 527–531
Gröna Lund (Stockholm), 476
Grönåsen’s Moose Park, 555
Grönhögen, 575
Grønland (Oslo), 217, 226, 260–266; eating, 284–285; map, 261
Grünerløkka (Oslo), 217, 232, 235, 260–265; eating, 284; map, 261
Gudbrandsdal Valley, 346–352; eating, 352; map, 347; sleeping, 351–352; transportation, 359
Gude, Hans, 245
Gudvangen, 300–303, 342–343, 344
Guidebooks, 756–758; Rick Steves, 756–758; updates, 3, 11, 42, 221, 365, 435, 590
Gundestrup Cauldron, 71
Gustavianum (Uppsala), 513–514
Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities (Stockholm), 459–460
Gustavus Adolphus, 430, 449, 457–458, 706–707
Gustav Vasa, 430, 445, 461, 473, 512–513, 525–526, 550, 556, 557, 706; tomb of, 512
Gynt Veien, 350
Hafslo, 333
Hakaniemi (Helsinki), 607
Håkon Hall (Lillehammer), 350
Håkon’s Hall (Bergen), 370–371, 371–372, 373, 377, 382
Hallingdal Valley, 298
“Hamlet” castle (Helsingør), 140–144
Hammerich House (Ærø), 155
Hamngatan (Stockholm), 450, 479
Hans Christian Andersen House (Odense), 170–172. See also Andersen, Hans Christian
Hanseatic League: overview, 380–381
Hanseatic Museum (Bergen), 366, 367, 370, 375–376, 383–384
Hanseatic Quarter (Bergen). See Bryggen (Bergen)
Harbor Baths (Copenhagen), 94–95
Haukeli, 414
Haukeliseter, 414
Havis Amanda (Helsinki), 595
Havnegade Promenade (Copenhagen), 61
Helsinki, 583–641; at a glance, 592–593; architecture, 601–605; boat travel, 584, 587–588, 634–641; eating, 630–634; helpful hints, 589–590; history of, 585; layout of, 584, 586; maps, 587, 596–597, 606, 628–629; orientation, 584, 586–590; planning tips, 584; shopping, 621–625; sights/activities, 608–621; sleeping, 625–630; tourist information, 586–587; tours, 590–593; tram tour, 605–608; transportation, 587–588, 590, 634–641, 638; walking tour, 594–605
Helsinki Airport, 588
Helsinki Botanical Gardens, 607
Helsinki Card, 586–587
Helsinki City Museum, 593, 610
Helsinki Expert, 586, 590, 593
Helsinki harbor, 584, 588, 594–595, 608–610; cruises, 591–592; eating, 630–631
Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral, 592, 609
Helsinki Market Square, 584, 594–595, 605, 624, 630–631
Helsinki Music Centre, 613
Helsinki Natural History Museum, 612
Helsinki This Week, 586, 637, 713
Helsinki University, 630
Hembygdsgården (Vaxholm), 524, 527
Henrik Ibsens Gate (Oslo), 225
Heyerdahl, Thor, 20, 258–259, 761–762
Hietalahti Market (Helsinki), 625
Hiking: Balestrand, 321–322, 325; Bergen, 387, 388–389; Flåm Valley, 307, 308; Grinda, 527, 529; Helsinki, 620; Hovden, 415; Jotunheimen Mountains, 356–358; Nigard Glacier, 336–337; Oslo, 260–265; Pulpit Rock, 409–410; Sandhamn, 533–536; Stockholm, 466; Tallinn, 685
Hillerød, 132–138
Himlen (Stockholm), 465
Himmelbjerget, 203–204
Hirtshals: boat travel, 177, 196–197, 401, 416–417, 750
Historisk Museum (Oslo), 225, 249
History, 643–654. See also Vikings; World War II
H&M (Stockholm), 479
Høeg, Peter, 759
Holidays, 766–768
Holmenkollen Ski Jump (Oslo), 234, 266–267
Holmenkollen Ski Museum (Oslo), 234, 266–267
Holy Ghost, Church of the (Tallinn), 664
Honneevje, 418
Honse-Lovisas Hus (Oslo), 264
Hopperstad Stave Church (Vik), 320, 321, 326–327
Hostels: about, 727. See also specific destinations
Hotels: about, 725–726; reservations, 728–729. See also specific destinations
Hötorget (Stockholm), 452, 497–498
House of Amber (Copenhagen), 97
House of Emigrants (Växjö), 543–544
House of Oslo, 225
Hovden Badeland, 416
Hovedbanegården (Copenhagen), 38–39, 66; sleeping near, 102–103
Humlebæk, 139–140
Hurrungane, 358
Hurtigruten, 401–402
Husfliden: Bergen, 388; Oslo, 272
Hviids Vinstue (Copenhagen), 63
Ibsen, Henrik, 20, 22, 225, 231, 263, 380, 708, 761
Icebar Stockholm, 481
Ice cream, 548; Ærø, 166–167; Ærøskøbing, 166–167; Copenhagen, 62; Helsinki, 620; Stockholm, 454
Illums Bolighus (Copenhagen), 59, 97, 113
Illums Bolighus (Stockholm), 450, 479
Inderhavnsbroen sliding bridge (Copenhagen), 61
Information, 765–766. See also specific destinations
International Chamber Music Festival (Stavanger), 404, 768
Internet access, 734–735, 741–742, 744–746; Ærø, 149–150; Balestrand, 322; Bergen, 365; Copenhagen, 41; Helsinki, 589; Oslo, 221; Tallinn, 654; Växjö, 542
Iron Boy (Stockholm), 444
Jakobsbergsgatan (Stockholm), 479
Järntorget (Stockholm), 447–448, 490
Jazz, 41–42, 97–98, 125, 404, 480–481, 766, 767, 768
Jekteviken/Dokken (Bergen), 364–365
Jelling, 201–203
Jewish Museum (Copenhagen), 59, 78
Jorn, Asger, 204
Jostedal Glacier, 327–328
Jostedalsbreen, 335–336
Jotunheimen Mountains, 346–347, 352–359; car travel, 356–359; map, 347
Junibacken (Stockholm), 475
Juvasshytta, 357–358
Kadriorg Art Museum (Tallinn), 675–676
Kadriorg Park (Tallinn), 659, 675–676
Kaivopuisto Park (Helsinki), 584, 620
Kaknäs Tower (Stockholm), 465
Kallio Church (Helsinki), 607
Kalmar, 556–572; eating, 570–571; map, 558–559; orientation, 556–557; sights/activities, 557–568; sleeping, 569–570; tourist information, 557; transportation, 571–572
Kalmar Beach, 564
Kalmar Cathedral, 565–566
Kalmar County Museum, 567–568
Kalmar Maritime History Museum, 568
Kalmar Old Churchyard, 563–564
Kalmar Town Hall, 566
Kalmar Town Park, 564
Kamppi Chapel of Silence (Helsinki), 601, 612
Kamppi Plaza (Helsinki), 601
Kansallismuseo (Helsinki), 593, 604, 613–614
Karisten, Ludvig, 386
Karl Johans Gate (Oslo), 227, 230–231; eating, 280, 282
Kastellet Park (Copenhagen), 64
Katariina Käik (Tallinn), 671, 685
Katarina viewing platform (Stockholm), 448, 465
Kayaking. See Canoeing and kayaking
Kiasma Museum (Helsinki), 601, 603, 612
Kiek in de Kök (Tallinn), 667
King Bele’s Way (Balestrand), 325
Kirkenes, 401–402
Kivi, Aleksis, 605
Klippekort card (Copenhagen), 42
Købmagergade (Copenhagen), 59–60
Kødbyen (Copenhagen). See Meat-packing District
Kode Art Museums (Bergen), 371, 386
Kohtuotsa Viewpoint (Tallinn), 670–671
Kolmikulma Park (Helsinki): shopping, 623
Kompagnistræde (Copenhagen), 117
Kongens Nytorv (Copenhagen), 62–63, 97
Kongernes Jelling Museum, 202
Kon-Tiki Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 258–259
Kosta (a.k.a. Kosta Boda), 548, 552–553
Kotiharjun Sauna (Helsinki), 611
Kristiansand, 403, 419–421; eating and sleeping, 420; planning tips, 403–404; transportation, 416–417, 420–421
Krohg, Christian, 231, 246, 386
Kronan, 567–568
Kronborg Castle (Helsingør), 140–144
Krusenstiernska Gården (Kalmar), 563
Kulttuurisauna (Helsinki), 611
Kulturhuset (Stockholm), 451, 479
Kumu Art Museum (Tallinn), 659, 676–679
Kungliga Myntkabinettet (Stockholm), 460
Kungliga Slottet (Stockholm), 443, 454, 455–460
Kungsholmen (Stockholm), 432; eating, 492, 494
Kungsträdgården (Stockholm), 449–450, 455, 479
Kvam: sleeping, 351–352
Kvanndal, 420
Kvarnen (Stockholm), 496
Kvarnholmen (Kalmar), 556, 564–567
Kvæsthus construction project (Copenhagen), 63
Kviknes Hotel (Balestrand), 323–324, 328–329, 330
Kyrkja, 358
Labor Museum (Oslo), 264
Lagerlöf, Selma, 763
Lahemaa National Park, 658, 685
Langelinie Pier (Copenhagen), 119–120
Language, 736; Danish, 30, 32; survival phrases, 32; Estonian, 647, 648; survival phrases, 648; Finnish, 581, 582, 585, 586; survival phrases, 582; Norwegian, 211, 214; survival phrases, 214; Swedish, 428, 429; survival phrases, 429
Lapp (Sami) culture, 249, 256, 426, 469, 474, 580, 631–632, 701
Larmtorget (Kalmar), 565
Lasipalatsi (Helsinki), 633
Lasnamäe (Tallinn), 683–684
Latin Quarter (Aarhus), 178, 185–186; eating, 194–195
Lauluväljak (Tallinn), 659, 680–681
Laundry: Aarhus, 182; Ærø, 150; Bergen, 365; Copenhagen, 41; Helsinki, 589; Oslo, 221; Stockholm, 435; Tallinn, 655
Ledaal (Stavanger), 409
Legoland, 198–201; orientation, 198–199; sleeping, 200–201; transportation, 198
Leirvassbu, 358
Lennusadam (Tallinn), 659, 679–680
Leprosy Museum (Bergen), 370, 385–386
Lessebo Hand Paper Mill, 554
Lilleborg (Oslo), 265
Lillehammer, 348–350; eating, 352; sleeping, 351
Lilleküla (Tallinn): sleeping, 691
Lindgren, Astrid, 21, 22, 475, 763
Linnaeus, Carl (Carl von Linné), 21, 512, 513, 515, 545
Linnaeus Garden and Museum (Uppsala), 515
Linnanmäki (Helsinki), 607
Linnéparken (Växjö), 545
“Little Karachi” (Oslo), 226
Little Mermaid, The (Copenhagen), 65–66
Livrustkammaren (Stockholm), 454, 457–458
Lodging. See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Lom, 353–356
Lom Stave Church, 353–355
Loppmarknaden (Stockholm), 480
Louisiana Art Museum (Humlebæk), 139–140
Luoto, 620
Luster, 334–335
Lustrafjord, 333–343, 343–344; sights/activities, 334–339; sleeping, 339–341; transportation, 333–334, 342–343
Lutheran Cathedral (Helsinki), 592, 609
Maarjamäe Memorial (Tallinn), 682
Magasin du Nord (Copenhagen), 63, 97, 113
Maiden Tower (Tallinn), 667
Maihaugen Open-Air Folk Museum (Lillehammer), 349–350
Maihaugen Stave Church, 349
MaiJazz Festival (Stavanger), 766
Mail, 746
Mälaren, Lake, 432, 448, 492, 494, 508
Mälarpaviljongen (Stockholm), 492, 494
Mannerheim, Carl Gustaf, 601, 603
Mannerheimintie (Helsinki), 601–605
Maps: about, 758; legend, 2. See also Map Index
Marble Church (Copenhagen), 64
Margrethe II, Queen, 28–29, 63–64, 74–75, 79, 128, 202
Mariakirken (Bergen), 373–374
Mariakyrkan (Sigtuna), 509
Maridal Lake, 260
Marijuana, in Copenhagen, 72–73, 93–94
Marimekko (Helsinki), 599, 622
Maritime museums:Fram Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 258; Kalmar Maritime History Museum, 568; Kon-Tiki Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 258–259; Maritime Museum of Denmark, 144; Maritime Museum (Stockholm), 475; Marstal Maritime Museum (Ærø), 161; Norwegian Maritime Museum (Oslo), 235, 254, 259; Seaplane Harbor (Tallinn), 679–680; Stavanger Maritime Museum, 409; Vasa Museum (Stockholm), 454, 470–473, 475; Viking Museum (Aarhus), 185; Viking Ship Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 256–258; Viking Ship Museum (Roskilde), 130–132
Markensgate (Kristiansand), 419
Markets, 731; Ærø, 150, 166; Ærøskøbing, 150, 166; Bergen, 362, 363, 370, 378, 399–400, 400; Copenhagen, 97; Helsinki, 594–595, 624–625, 630–631; Kalmar, 571; Oslo, 272; Roskilde, 125; Stavanger, 404, 406; Stockholm, 452, 466, 480, 492, 499; Tallinn, 686, 695–696; Växjö, 541, 547. See also Fish markets
Market Square (Helsinki). See Helsinki Market Square
Marstal Maritime Museum (Ærø), 161
Mary’s Church (Sigtuna), 509
Massages, in Stockholm, 482
Mats Jonasson Målerås, 548, 553–554
Maurvangen, 357
Meatpacking District (Copenhagen), 35, 97; eating, 115–117
Medborgarplatsen (Stockholm), 478; eating, 494–495
Medeltidsmuseet, 461
Memurubu, 357
Metric system, 769
Metro: Copenhagen, 39, 40, 42, 43–44, 63; Oslo, 221–222, 223; Stockholm, 436
Metsakalmistu (Tallinn), 682–683
Military Parade (Stockholm), 454, 456–457
Milles, Carl, 21, 22, 455, 461, 473, 478
Millesgården (Stockholm), 455, 478
Moberg, Vilhelm, 427, 544, 763
Mobile phones, 11, 734–735, 737, 740–746
Moderna Museet (Stockholm), 465–466
Modern design. See Design; and specific designers
Moesgård Museum (Aarhus), 191–192
Molestien Lane (Ærøskøbing), 152
Mølleparken (Aarhus), 186–187
Møllestien (Aarhus), 186–187
Mølstertunet Folk Museum (Voss), 304
Money, 714–721; budgeting, 5–7. See also ATMs; Currency and exchange
Money belts, 716
Money-saving tips, 5–7, 715; sleeping, 722–725; Aarhus, 182; Bergen, 363; Billund, 199; Copenhagen, 35, 38, 123, 124; Helsinki, 586–587, 625; Legoland, 199; Odense, 170; Oslo, 218–219, 222, 223, 278–280, 283; Stockholm, 433, 436, 437, 482–483, 489–490; Tallinn, 653
Møntergården (Odense), 173
Mood Stockholm, 479
Moomin Shop (Helsinki), 622
Moose Park (Grönåsen), 555
Mortensen, Viggo, 20
Moscow: train travel, 640, 696–697
Mountain Museum (Lom), 355, 357
Mount Fløyen (Bergen), 363, 370, 384–385, 388–389, 398–399
Movies, recommended, 758–764
Movie theaters. See Cinemas
Munch, Edvard, 20, 22, 243, 247–249, 263, 386, 476; biographical sketch, 248; Museum (Oslo), 235, 268
Museum Jorn Silkeborg (Silkeborg), 204
Museum of Danish Resistance (Copenhagen), 80
Museum of Estonian History (Tallinn), 658, 664, 672
Museum of Iron Production (Hovden), 415–416
Museum of Medieval Stockholm, 461
Museum of Modern Art (Stockholm), 465–466
Museum of Occupation (Tallinn), 658, 674–675
Museum of Three Crowns (Stockholm), 459
Museums. See Maritime museums; Open-air museums; and specific museums
Museum Stavanger, 409
Music, 22–23; Bergen, 389–390, 391; Copenhagen, 41–42, 97–98; Helsinki, 583, 598, 603, 604; Kalmar, 557, 565, 566; Stavanger, 404; Stockholm, 468–469, 480–481; Tallinn, 680–681, 686. See also Jazz; Opera houses; and specific composers
Music Centre (Helsinki), 603, 613
Müürivahe Street (Tallinn), 671, 685
Myrdal: train travel, 295–296, 299–300
Naantali, 621
Nærøydal, 303
National Gallery of Denmark (Copenhagen), 59, 86–87
National Gallery of Finland (Helsinki), 593, 600–601, 605, 610, 612
National Gallery (Oslo), 225, 242–249; map, 244
National Historical Museum (Oslo), 225, 249
National Library (Helsinki), 597–598
National Museum (Copenhagen), 58, 70–73
National Museum of Fine Arts (Stockholm), 464–465
National Museum of Finland (Helsinki), 593, 604, 613–614
National Theater: Bergen, 379–380; Helsinki, 605; Oslo, 231–232
Navitrolla Gallerii (Tallinn), 685
Nes: sleeping, 340
Netto-Bådene (Copenhagen), 47–48
Nielsen, Brigitte, 20
Nielsen, Carl, 20
Nightlife: budgeting, 7; Ærøskøbing, 161–162; Copenhagen, 97–98; Stockholm, 480–481; Tallinn, 686
Nobel, Alfred, 21, 238, 453–454
Nobel Museum (Stockholm), 453–454, 455
Nobel Peace Center (Oslo), 233, 235, 238
Nobel Prize, 57, 238, 452, 453–454, 460, 462, 761, 763
Noma (Copenhagen), 114
Nomeland, 419
Nordic Museum (Stockholm), 454, 473
Nordiska Galleriet (Stockholm), 480
Nordiska Kompaniet (Stockholm), 450, 479
Nordiska Museet (Stockholm), 454, 473
Norges Hjemmefrontmuseum (Oslo), 234, 235, 241–242
Nørreport (Copenhagen), 40; eating, 115; sleeping, 98–99
Norrmalm (Stockholm), 432, 448–449, 462–464; eating, 496–497; sleeping, 486–487
Norsk Folkemuseum (Oslo), 234, 254, 255–256
Norsk Hermetikkmuseum (Stavanger), 409
Norsk Oljemuseum (Stavanger), 407–408
North Öland, 574–575
North Sea oil, 360, 407–408, 710
Norway, 206–421; at a glance, 12–13; almanac, 208–209; cuisine, 281; currency, 209, 221, 715; famous figures, 20–21; history of, 206–210, 700–711; map, 207; overview, 206–213. See also specific destinations
Norway fjords, 289–345; about, 301; maps, 290, 295; Nutshell tour, 289–304; orientation, 291–298; planning tips, 290–291. See also Sognefjord
Norway Parliament Building (Oslo), 231
Norwegian Canning Museum (Stavanger), 409
Norwegian Folk Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 255–256
Norwegian Glacier Museum (Fjærland), 328
Norwegian Holocaust Center (Oslo), 235, 254, 259–260
Norwegian language, 211; survival phrases, 214
Norwegian Maritime Museum (Oslo), 235, 254, 259
Norwegian Mountain Museum (Lom), 355, 357
Norwegian National Theater (Bergen), 379–380
Norwegian Olympics Museum (Lillehammer), 350
Norwegian Petroleum Museum (Stavanger), 407–408
Norwegian Resistance Museum (Oslo), 234, 235, 241–242
Norwegian Travel Museum (Balestrand), 323
Notke, Bernt, 666
Nurmi, Paavo, 607
Nybrogatan (Stockholm), 480
Nybroplan (Stockholm), 466
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (Copenhagen), 59, 69–70
Nydalen (Oslo), 265
Nyhavn (Copenhagen), 35, 61–62; eating, 117; nightlife, 97; sleeping, 99, 102
Nyström, Jenny, 568
Nytorget (Stockholm), 495–496
Nytorv (Copenhagen), 57, 107, 110
Occupation Museum 1940-1945 (Aarhus), 191
Oceankaj (Copenhagen), 118–119, 120
Odda, 413–414
Odense, 168–176; eating, 175; map, 147, 169; orientation, 168–170; planning tips, 146–147; sights, 170–174; sleeping, 174–175; tourist information, 170; transportation, 170, 175–176
Odense Pass, 170
Okupatsioonide Muuseum (Tallinn), 658, 674–675
Olaf, Saint, 324
Olaf Ryes Plass (Oslo), 264
Öland, 572–575; transportation, 573–574
Old Christiania (Oslo), 242
Old Town (Kalmar), 556, 562–564
Old Town (Stockholm). See Gamla Stan
Old Town (Tallinn), 652, 658, 660–675; eating, 691–694, 695, 696; map, 661; sleeping, 687–690
Ole Bulls Plass (Bergen), 379–381
Olympics Museum (Lillehammer), 350
Open-air museums: Aarhus Open- Air Museum, 187, 189–191; Copenhagen Open-Air Folk Museum, 95–96; Den Fynske Landsby Open-Air Museum (Odense), 174; Estonian Open-Air Museum (Tallinn), 659, 684–685; Maihaugen Open-Air Folk Museum (Lillehammer), 349–350; Norwegian Folk Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 255–256; Seurasaari Open-Air Folk Museum (Helsinki), 592, 620–621; Skansen (Stockholm), 454, 468–470
Opera houses: Copenhagen, 61, 63, 89; Helsinki, 607; Oslo, 235, 238–239; Stockholm, 443, 449, 497, 508
Operakållaren (Stockholm), 497
Orrefors, 554
Oscarsborg Fortress (Oslo), 271
Oseberg (Oslo), 257
Oslo, 215–288; at a glance, 234–235; eating, 278–286; helpful hints, 220–221; layout of, 217; maps, 218, 228–229, 274–275; orientation, 217–222; planning tips, 216–217; shopping, 271–272; sights/activities, 236–271; sleeping, 272–278; tourist information, 217–219; tours, 222–224; tram tour, 224–226; transportation, 219–220, 221–222, 223, 286–288, 359; walking tour, 226–233, 236
Oslo Airport, 219–220
Oslo Card, 502
Oslo Cathedral, 227–228
Oslo City Hall, 225, 232–233, 234, 236–238
Oslo City Museum, 253
Oslo Fjord Tours, 222, 295–296
Oslo Harbor, 233, 236–240; eating, 282–283
Oslo National Historical Museum, 225, 249
Oslo Opera House, 235, 238–239
Østergade (Ærøskøbing), 152–153
Östermalm (Stockholm), 432, 466; eating, 499; sleeping, 486–487
Otternes Farms, 308–309
Our Savior’s Cemetery (Oslo), 262
Our Savior’s Church (Copenhagen), 59, 88–89
Packing checklist, 772
Paleet (Oslo), 271
Paradis, 390
Parliament: Danish (Copenhagen), 60, 73; Estonian (Tallinn), 668; Finnish (Helsinki), 603; Norway (Oslo), 231; Swedish (Stockholm), 460–461
Parnevik, Jesper, 21
Patkuli Viewpoint (Tallinn), 669–670
Peer Gynt Seterveien, 350
Peterssen, Eilif, 245–246
Petroleum Museum (Stavanger), 407–408
Pharmacies: Copenhagen, 41; Helsinki, 589; Oslo, 221
Phones. See Telephones
Pickpockets, 220, 378, 435, 652, 716
Picnics, 490, 492, 495, 497, 731. See also Markets
Pikk Street (Tallinn), 662–663
Piper Park (Helsinki), 619
Pirita (Tallinn), 681–683
Pølse (sausage), 68, 110, 189, 331, 391
Population: Denmark, 28; Estonia, 645; Finland, 580; Norway, 208; Sweden, 426
Porvoo, 621
Post offices, 746
Prästgatan (Stockholm), 447
Private rooms: about, 726–727. See also specific destinations
Pubs: Ærøskøbing, 162; Bergen, 398; Helsinki, 593, 633; Kalmar, 571; Oslo, 285; Stockholm, 480–481, 496; Tallinn, 658, 694
Punsch, 522
Pusher Street (Copenhagen), 90, 91, 93, 94
Rådhus (Copenhagen), 50, 51, 58–59, 68–69
Rådhuset (Oslo), 225, 232–233, 234, 236–238
Rådhuspladsen (Copenhagen), 50–53
Radisson Blu Royal Hotel (Copenhagen), 51
Ra II (Oslo), 258–259
Rail passes, 11, 747, 749, 757
Rasmussen, Carl, 161
Reader feedback, 14
Red Badge Guides (Copenhagen), 46
Redzepi, René, 114
Reformation Memorial (Copenhagen), 55
Restaurants. See Eating
Ribe, 204
Ribe Cathedral, 204
Riddarholmen Church (Stockholm), 462
Riddarholmen (Stockholm), 432, 461–462
Rīga, Latvia, 658
Riksdag (Stockholm), 460–461
Rode, Herman, 666
Rodne Clipper Fjord Sightseeing, 409–410
Røisheim, 355
Røldal, 414
Røldalsfjellet, 414
Rosenborg Castle (Copenhagen), 46, 58, 80–86
Rosenborg Gardens (Copenhagen), 59, 86
Rosenborg Treasury (Copenhagen), 84–86
Rosendals Slott (Stockholm), 477
Rosenkrantz Tower (Bergen), 370–371, 371–372, 377, 382
Roskilde, 125–132; map, 127; orientation, 125–126; sights, 126–132; tourist information, 125; transportation, 125
Roskilde Cathedral, 126–130
Rotermann Quarter (Tallinn), 670–671, 675; eating, 694–695
Round Tower (Copenhagen), 78–79
Royal Apartments (Stockholm), 455, 458–459
Royal Armory (Stockholm), 454, 457–458
Royal Coin Cabinet (Stockholm), 455, 460
Royal Copenhagen (Copenhagen), 59, 97
Royal Danish Theatre’s Playhouse (Copenhagen), 61, 63, 89
Royal Danish Treasury (Copenhagen), 58, 84–86
Royal Library (Copenhagen), 41, 77–78
Royal Opera House (Stockholm), 443, 449, 497, 508
Royal Palace (Oslo), 230
Royal Palace (Stockholm), 443, 455–460
Royal Stables (Copenhagen), 75
Royal Treasury (Stockholm), 455, 459
Rune stones, 186, 201, 202–203, 419, 447, 508, 510, 703
Russalka Monument (Tallinn), 682
Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Tallinn), 658, 667–668
Rygge Airport (Oslo), 220
Saarinen, Eliel, 21, 600, 602, 605
St. Bridget’s Convent (Tallinn), 682
Saint George and the Dragon (Stockholm), 446
St. Mary’s Church (Bergen), 373–374
St. Nicholas Church (Tallinn), 658, 665–666
St. Olaf ’s Church (Balestrand), 324
St. Olaf’s Church (Sigtuna), 509
St. Olav’s Church (Tallinn), 662
St. Petersburg, Russia, 640–641, 696–697
Salonen, Esa-Pekka, 21
Saluhall (Stockholm), 466, 499
Sami (Lapp) culture, 249, 256, 426, 469, 474, 580, 631–632, 701
Sandefjord Airport Torp (Oslo), 220
Sandhamn, 532–538
Sankt Peders Church (Copenhagen), 55
Saunas (spas): about, 611; Helsinki, 611; Hovden, 416; Oslo, 270; Stockholm, 482; Tallinn, 687; Växjö, 544
School of Economics (Helsinki), 607
Scream, The (Munch), 20, 243, 248
Seafarers’ Monument (Bergen), 379
Seaplane Harbor (Tallinn), 659, 679–680
Seasons, 7–10
Senate Square (Helsinki), 592, 595–598, 605
Sergelgatan (Stockholm), 452
Sergels Torg (Stockholm), 451, 455; eating, 498; shopping, 479
Setesdal Mineral Park, 419
Setesdal Museum (Flateland), 418
Setesdal Valley, 403, 413–419; map, 414; planning tips, 403–404
Seurasaari Open-Air Folk Museum (Helsinki), 592, 620–621
Shopping: Ærøskøbing, 150; Bergen, 387–388; budgeting, 7; business hours, 714; clothing sizes, 769; Copenhagen, 96–97; Helsinki, 607, 608; Oslo, 271–272; Stockholm, 450–452, 479–480; VAT refunds, 719–720. See also Department stores; Design; Glassware; Markets; Sweaters
Sibelius, Jean, 21, 22; Monument (Helsinki), 593, 604, 615
Sightseeing: at a glance, 12–13; best three-week trips, 8–9, 10; budgeting, 7; general tips, 721–722; priorities, 7. See also specific sights and destinations
Sigtuna, 508–510
Silja Lines. See Tallink Silja
Silkeborg, 203–204
Silver Bible (Uppsala), 515
Singing Revolution: about, 681
Sjøfartsmuseums. See Maritime museums
Skånegatan (Stockholm), 495–496
Skansen (Stockholm), 454, 468–470
Skärgården (Stockholm). See Archipelago (Stockholm)
Skarsgård, Stellan, 21
Skattkammaren (Stockholm), 455, 459
Skavsta Airport (Stockholm), 435
Skeppsholmen (Stockholm), 432, 464; sleeping, 488
Ski jumps, 350; Holmenkollen (Oslo), 234, 266–267
Ski Museum (Oslo), 234, 266–267
Skolten (Bergen), 364
SL-Access card (Stockholm), 436
Sleep code, 724
Sleeping, 722–729; budgeting, 6–7; money-saving tips, 722–725; reservations, 11, 728–729; types of accommodations, 725–729
Slotsholmen Island (Copenhagen), 73–78
Slussen (Stockholm), 432
Smålands Museum (Växjö), 542–543
Smartphones, 11, 734–735, 737, 740–746
Smedegade (Ærøskøbing), 150–152
Smörgåsbord, 584, 637, 697, 699, 732–733; Grand Hotel (Stockholm), 496–497; Skansen (Stockholm), 470
Smørrebrød, 106–107, 110, 730–731
Söderköping, 572
Södermalm (Stockholm), 433, 448, 477–478, 480; eating, 494–496; sleeping, 488–489
Sogndal: sleeping, 341
Sognefjell, 358
Sognefjord, 289–345, 358; about, 301; boat travel, 294, 297–298, 300–302, 331–332; buses, 292, 302–303; car travel, 309–310, 333–334, 343–345; Lustrafjord, 333–343; maps, 290, 295, 318–319; orientation, 291–298; package tours, 295–296; planning tips, 290–291, 320; scenic drives, 343–345; self-guided tour, 296–297, 298–304; train travel, 291–297, 298–300, 304
Sognsvann, 269
Sohlberg, Harald, 247
Sola Airport (Stavanger), 406
Solliden Palace, 574–575
Solvorn, 337; eating, 341; sleeping, 340–341
Søndergade (Ærøskøbing), 153
Song Festival Grounds (Tallinn), 659, 680–681
Sörenstam, Annika, 21
Southeast Sweden, 539–575; map, 540
South Norway, 403–421; map, 207
South Öland, 575
Spas. See Saunas
Spiritmuseum (Stockholm), 476
Spiterstulen, 357
Stadsgården (Stockholm), 501–502, 636
Stadshuset (Stockholm), 454, 462–464, 465
Stalheimkleiva, 303
Statens Museum for Kunst (Copenhagen), 59, 86–87
Stavanger, 404–413; eating, 411–412; map, 405; orientation, 404, 406; planning tips, 403–404; sights/activities, 407–410; sleeping, 411; special events, 404, 766, 767; tourist information, 406; transportation, 406, 412–413, 417
Stavanger Cathedral, 407
Stavanger Food Festival, 404, 767
Stavanger International Jazz Festival, 404, 766
Stavanger Maritime Museum, 409
Stavanger Museum, 409
Stave churches: about, 211–213; Borgund, 310–311; Fantoft, 371; Fantoft (Paradis), 390; Gol (Oslo), 256; Hopperstad (Vik), 320, 321, 326–327; Lom, 353–355; Maihaugen, 349; Urnes, 337–339
Stegastein Viewpoint, 309–310, 344
Stenerud, Jan, 20
Stensö, 564
Stock Exchange (Copenhagen), 60–61
Stock Exchange (Stockholm), 445, 453–454
Stockholm, 430–502; at a glance, 454–455; eating, 489–499; helpful hints, 435; layout of, 432–433; maps, 432, 438–439, 442, 467, 484–485, 491; nightlife, 480–481; orientation, 432–437; planning tips, 431–432; self-guided tour, 441–452; shopping, 479–480; sights/activities, 452–478; sleeping, 482–489; tourist information, 433; tours, 437–441; transportation, 433–435, 436–437, 499–502; views, 465. See also specific islands
Stockholm Aquarium, 470
Stockholm archipelago. See Archipelago (Stockholm)
Stockholm Bloodbath of 1520, 445, 706
Stockholm Cathedral, 445–446
Stockholm City Hall, 454, 462–464, 465
Stockholm Guide, 433
Stockholms Stadsmission, 445
Stockmann (Helsinki), 600, 622, 634
Storagatan (Sigtuna), 509
Store Rise Church (Ærø), 160
Store Rise Prehistoric Tomb (Ærø), 160
Storgatan (Kalmar), 565
Storgatan (Växjö), 545
Stortinget (Oslo), 231
Stortorget (Kalmar), 565
Stortorget (Stockholm), 444–445
Stortorvet (Oslo), 225–226, 228–229
Strøget (Copenhagen), 33, 35, 54–55
Strömma (Stockholm), 437, 438, 440, 494, 519
Strömparterren (Stockholm), 461
Subway. See Metro
Sundt-Hansen, Carl, 246–247
Sunset Beach (Ærø), 161–162
Suomenlinna Fortress (Helsinki), 592, 617–619
Suomi. See Finland
Svartsö, 531–532
Svendborg-Ærø Ferry, 167–168
Sverige. See Sweden
Svinesund Bridge, 755
Sweaters, 138, 271–272, 375, 388, 685
“Sweater Wall ” (Tallinn), 685
Sweden, 424–575; at a glance, 13; almanac, 426–427; cuisine, 449, 493; currency, 427, 715; famous figures, 21; history of, 424–428, 700–711; map, 425; overview, 424–428. See also specific destinations
Swedish Glass Museum (Växjö), 542–543
Swedish language, 428, 429; survival phrases, 429
Swedish massages, in Stockholm, 482
Swedish Parliament (Stockholm), 460–461
Swedish Theater (Helsinki), 599
Systembolaget (Stockholm), 479
Tall Hermann Tower (Tallinn), 668–669
Tallink Silja, 588, 591, 634–637, 638, 697–699
Tallinn, 649–699; at a glance, 658–659; eating, 691–696; entertainment, 686–687; helpful hints, 654–656; layout of, 652; maps, 650–651, 655, 661, 688; orientation, 652–657; planning tips, 652; shopping, 685–686; sights/activities, 671–685; sleeping, 687–691; tourist information, 652–653; tours, 657–660; transportation, 638, 653–654, 656–657, 696–699; walking tour, 660–671
Tallinn Airport, 654
Tallinn Card, 653
Tallinn City Museum, 672–673
Tallinn City Walls, 666–667
Tallinn in Your Pocket, 653, 697
Tallinn Open-Air Museum, 659, 684–685
Tallinn Town Hall and Tower, 658, 665, 672
Tallinn Town Hall Square, 652, 664–665
Tallinn World War II Memorial, 682
Tau, 410
Taxes: VAT refunds, 719–720
Taxis: Aarhus, 182; Ærø, 148; Copenhagen, 40, 44; Oslo, 222; Stockholm, 434, 437; Tallinn, 653–654, 656–657; tipping, 719
Telephone cards, 745
Telephone numbers, useful, 765–766
Telephones, 734–745; calling chart, 738–739; Helsinki, 589; Tallinn, 654
Television series, Rick Steves, 758
Telthusbakken Road (Oslo), 263
Temperatures, average monthly, 769–771
Temppeliaukio Church (Helsinki), 592, 604, 614–615
Theta Museum (Bergen), 384
Thielska Galleriet (Stockholm), 455, 476
Thorvald Meyers Gate (Oslo), 264
Thorvaldsen, Bertel, 20, 22, 56, 69, 76, 129, 708; Museum (Copenhagen), 58, 75, 77
Three Blacksmiths (Helsinki), 600, 607
Tidemand, Adolph, 245
Tipping, 719
Titanic, 544
Tivoli Friheden Amusement Park (Aarhus), 192
Tivoli Gardens (Copenhagen), 51, 58, 66–68, 97
Tjuvholmen (Oslo), 235, 236, 239–240, 287
Töölönlahti Bay (Helsinki), 604
Toomkirik (Tallinn), 669
Toompea Castle (Tallinn), 668–669
Toompea (Tallinn), 652, 660, 666–671
Torgallmenningen (Bergen), 379
Torvalds, Linus, 21
Torvet (Ærøskøbing), 153–154, 166
Tour guides, 11; tipping, 719. See also specific destinations
Tourist information, 712–713. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 757. See also specific destinations
Tøyenbadet (Oslo), 270
Trädgårdsgatan (Stockholm), 444
Trädgårdsgatan (Vaxholm), 524
Train travel, 5, 746–749; best three-week trip, 10; Aarhus, 179, 196–197; Bergen, 291–297, 298–299, 304, 363–364, 401; Copenhagen, 38–40, 118; Flåm, 295–296, 297–298, 299–300; Helsinki, 588, 634; Kalmar, 571; map, 747; Myrdal, 295–296, 299–300; Norway fjords, 291–297; Odense, 167–168, 170, 175; Oslo, 219–220, 286, 291–297, 298–299; Roskilde, 125; Sigtuna, 509; Sognefjord, 291–297, 298–300, 304; Stavanger, 406; Stockholm, 433–434, 500; Svendborg, 167–168; Tallinn, 654, 696–697; Uppsala, 510; Växjö, 547; Voss, 295
Trams: Bergen, 365–366, 390; Helsinki, 590–591, 593, 605–608; Oslo, 221–222, 223, 224–226; Stockholm, 436; Tallinn, 656; Troldhaugen, 390
Tranderup, 159
Transjö Hytta (Kosta), 548, 553
Transportation, 746–756; budgeting, 5–6; map, 747. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel (driving); Ferries; Taxis; Train travel; Trams; and specific destinations
Travel Guard, 753–754
Travel insurance, 11
Travel smarts, 4–5
Trip costs, 5–7
Turku, 621; transportation, 638
Turtagrø, 358
Tusenfryd (Oslo), 269–270
Tvindefossen waterfall, 303, 345
TV series, Rick Steves, 758
TV tower (Tallinn), 683
Ühiskaart smartcard (Tallinn), 656
Ulrich, Lars, 20
Ulriken643 Cable Car (Bergen), 371, 388–389
Undredal Church, 315
Unioninkatu (Helsinki), 598
University of Copenhagen, 54, 56–57; eating, 106–107
University of Helsinki, 597, 630
Uppland Museum (Uppsala), 516
Uppsala, 510–517; orientation, 511; sights, 512–517; tourist information, 511; transportation, 510
Uppsala Card, 511
Uppsala Castle, 516
Uppsala Cathedral, 512–513
Uppsala University, 513–516
Urnes Stave Church, 337–339
US embassies. See Embassies
Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral (Helsinki), 592, 608–609
Utne, 420
Uunisaari, 620
Vabaduse Väljak (Tallinn), 673
Vabaøhumuuseum (Tallinn), 659, 684–685
Valkosaari, 620
Valle, 418
Vår Frelsers Cemetery (Oslo), 262
Vasa Museum (Stockholm), 454, 470–473, 475
Västervik, 572
Vaxholm, 522–527; eating, 526–527; sleeping, 526–527
Vaxholm Fortress and Museum, 525–526
Växjö, 541–547
Växjö Cathedral, 544–545
Växjö Town Park, 544
Vesterbro (Copenhagen), 35
Vesterbrogade (Copenhagen), 51
Victorian Apartment (Copenhagen), 58, 73
Vigeland, Gustav, 20, 22; biographical sketch, 250; Museum (Oslo), 253; Park (Oslo), 217, 225, 234, 250–253, 283–284
Vigeland Park (Oslo), 217, 225, 234, 250–253; eating, 283–284
Viggsö, 529
Viking Line, 501, 588, 591, 634–637, 638, 639, 698–699
Vikings, 26, 72, 206–209, 425–426, 702–703; Gustavianum (Uppsala), 514; Museum (Aarhus), 185; Ship Museum (Oslo), 234, 254, 256–258; Ship Museum (Roskilde), 130–132; Sigtuna History Museum, 509. See also Rune stones
Vikingskiphuset (Oslo), 234, 254, 256–258
Vinmonopolet (Oslo), 272
Viru Gate (Tallinn), 671
Viru Keskus Mall (Tallinn), 671, 686, 695–696
Visitor information, 765–766. See also specific destinations
Vodrup Klint, 159
Volvo Ocean Race, 536
Von Trier, Lars, 20
Vor Frelsers Kirke (Copenhagen), 59, 88–89
Vor Frue Kirche (Copenhagen), 55–56
Vor Frue Kirke (Aarhus), 186
Voss, 302–304, 345; transportation, 295, 302–304
Voss water, 211
Wärdshus (Grinda), 528
Waxholmsbolaget, 436, 520–521, 523
Wergeland, Henrik, 231–232
Wet Fun (Oslo), 270
What’s On in Oslo, 217, 502, 713
What’s On (Stockholm), 433, 713
What’s On (Uppsala), 511
Wheel Well (Tallinn), 665
Winter Olympics, 266, 303–304, 350
World War II, 209–210, 578–579, 709–710, 759, 761, 762, 763; Fortress Museum (Bergen), 382–383; Norwegian Holocaust Center (Oslo), 235, 254, 259–260; Norwegian Resistance Museum (Oslo), 234, 235, 241–242; Occupation Museum 1940-1945 (Aarhus), 191; Theta Museum (Bergen), 384; World War II Memorial (Tallinn), 682
Zealand, 122–124
Zetor (Helsinki), 631
Zoos: Djurgården, 468, 469; Kristiansand, 419; Stockholm, 468, 469