NOTES

PREFACE

1. Adler and Adler, Kids’ Letters to President Obama, 57–58.

CHAPTER 1

1. “Forty Pound Turkey,” 2.

2. “Yessah, Mistah Taft.” The term “Lucullan” refers to the famous Roman general and politician named Lucullus (118–56 B.C.E.) who was known for his extravagant banquets.

3. Ibid.

4. Smith and Morris, Dear Mr. President, 67–68.

5. Ibid., 68.

6. “Chef,” Oxford English Dictionary, http://bit.ly/2bqfaNX (accessed 30 December 2015).

7. Durst-Wertheim, “Chefs,” 106.

8. Quoted in L. Walsh, “Lynda Bird,” 3.

9. Fields, My 21 Years, 117.

10. Brooks, Washington in Lincoln’s Time, 277.

11. Parks, My Thirty Years, 221. Maggie Parks, Parks’s mother, was a longtime White House employee.

12. Ibid., 183.

13. Quoted in Bache, “New York,” 12.

14. Parks, My Thirty Years, 123–24.

15. Bishop, Day in the Life of President Johnson, 7.

16. “Expenses at the White House.”

17. Parks, Roosevelts, 70.

18. K. Walsh, Air Force One, 144.

19. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 355–56.

20. Nesbitt, White House Diary, 196.

21. The actual spelling is McIntire.

22. Nesbitt, White House Diary, 189.

23. Odlin, “Center Market.”

24. Gamarekian, “Keeping House.”

25. Seale, President’s House, 1:78.

26. Ibid., 203.

27. Ibid., 271.

28. “New Kitchens.”

29. Colman, Seventy-Five Years, 232.

30. Evans, “New Stoves.”

31. Moeller and Lovell, Dining at the White House, 48; Scheib and Friedman, White House Chef, 36.

32. Seale, President’s House, 1:102.

33. Ibid.

34. Evans, “New Stoves.”

35. Aikman, Living White House, 120.

36. Scrymser, Personal Reminiscences, 17–18.

37. Jaffray, Secrets of the White House, 123.

38. “Pepper and Salt.”

39. New York Times, 28 July 1935, 1.

40. “Chafing Dishes.”

41. “Women Scribes.”

42. J. Fleming, “Tuskegee Culls Ideas for Chefs.”

43. Moeller and Lovell, Dining at the White House, 31.

44. Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential, 55.

45. Jaffray, Secrets of the White House, 124.

46. “Keeping House at the White House”; Avery, “Costs of Living.”

47. Nesbitt, White House Diary, 188.

48. Parks, My Thirty Years, 98.

49. Holland, The Invisibles, 10–11.

50. Jaffray, Secrets of the White House, 19.

51. Ibid., 125.

52. Parks, Roosevelts, 29–30; Nesbitt, White House Diary, 67.

53. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 328.

54. “Dished in the Kitchen.”

55. Nesbitt, White House Diary, 120–21.

56. Jaffray, Secrets of the White House, 126.

57. Nesbitt, White House Diary, 67, 182.

58. Parks, Roosevelts, 84.

59. Bryant, Dog Days, 137–38.

60. Ibid., 219–20.

61. “White House Dog Repentant.” Actually, Winks had a fatal accident on the White House grounds soon after this event.

62. Bache, “Rats, Mice and Bugs.”

63. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 328–29.

64. Jaffray, Secrets of the White House, 62–63.

65. Parks, My Thirty Years, 90.

66. Claiborne, “Jefferson Paved the Way.”

67. S. Johnson, My Brother Lyndon, 66.

68. Elliot and Ali, Presidential-Congressional Dictionary, 101.

69. Nelson, Guide to the Presidency, 1647.

CHAPTER 2

1. Paraphrasing John 2:1–10 in F. C. Thompson, Thompson Chain Reference Study Bible, 1375.

2. “Steward,” Oxford English Dictionary.

3. Genovese, Roll, Jordan, Roll, 327–28.

4. Bodenhorn, Color Factor, 66.

5. New York Gazette, 4 April 1774, 3.

6. Graves, “He’s Just a Man.”

7. Quoted in Blockson, “Black Samuel Fraunces.”

8. Hume, Popular Media and the American Revolution, 77.

9. Ibid.

10. Holte, “Unheralded Realities,” E8.

11. Ibid.

12. Hume, Popular Media in the American Revolution, 77.

13. “54 Pearl Street History.”

14. Riseley, “New York’s Historic Landmarks.”

15. Custis, Recollections, 421–22.

16. Piehler, “Fraunces, Samuel,” 414.

17. Gourse, “Hoist a Glass of History.”

18. Stevens, “Merchants of New York.”

19. “No. 3 Cherry St.”

20. Harrison, “Washington in New York.”

21. Quoted in ibid.

22. Chernow, Washington, 582.

23. Rhodes, “Dining with George Washington.”

24. Cannon and Brooks, President’s Cookbook, 3.

25. Custis, Recollections, 421–22.

26. Quoted in ibid., 421.

27. Ibid.

28. Blockson, “Black Samuel Fraunces.”

29. J. Smith, “Fraunces, Samuel,” 368.

30. D. Smith, “Slave Site.”

31. Virginia Transcript, 20 March 1868, 2.

32. Williams, Life of Rutherford Birchard Hayes, 301.

33. Whitcomb and Whitcomb, Real Life at the White House, 169.

34. Ibid.

35. “Better and Better.”

36. Critic, 11 July 1881, 1.

37. “Crump,” Macon (Ga.) Weekly Telegraph.

38. “Out of the Jaws of Death.”

39. Critic, 11 July 1881, 1.

40. “Steward Crump Resigned.”

41. “Presidents at Dinner.”

42. Quoted in ibid.

43. “Crump,” Cincinnati Enquirer.

44. “The District in Congress.”

45. New York World, 6 September 1896, 8.

46. Ibid.

47. “Death of Henry Pinckney.”

48. “President for all the People.”

49. “Death of Henry Pinckney.”

50. “Named After the President.”

51. “In the White House.”

52. “A Negro White House Steward.”

53. Ibid.

54. “White House Steward.”

55. Ibid.

56. “Real Leaders of Washington’s Smart Set.”

57. Howard, “White House Table.”

58. “President Roosevelt Makes a Correction.”

59. “At the White House,” Evening Star.

60. Boston Globe, 30 November 1900, 12.

61. “At the White House,” New York Tribune.

62. “City Full of Joy”; “President Gives Away Turkeys.”

63. “Roosevelt’s Guests Ate Aged Meat.”

64. “Roosevelts Ate Best.”

65. Fields, My 21 Years, 9–13.

66. Raymond Henle, “Alonzo Fields,” oral history interview, 24 July 1970, 29–30, Harry S. Truman Presidential Library and Museum, Independence, Mo.

67. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 99.

68. Henle, “Alonzo Fields,” oral history interview, 3.

69. Ibid., 30.

70. Ibid.

71. Fields, My 21 Years, 7.

72. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 82.

73. Fields, My 21 Years, 99.

74. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 73.

75. Fields, My 21 Years, 109.

76. Ibid., 69–70.

77. Ibid., 77–78.

78. Ibid., 35–36.

79. “Personnel Announcement.”

80. Shields, “Man of the House.”

81. Cahalan, “Invisible Hands.”

82. “All Black 1800s Lifesaving Unit Gets Medal.”

83. Carter, “Welcome Aboard.”

84. “White House Announces New Chief Usher”; Benac, “New White House Usher.”

85. “White House Announces New Chief Usher.”

86. “Angella Reid, the First Woman Named Chief Usher.”

87. Kantor, “Electing to Sleep Elsewhere.”

CHAPTER 3

1. Holland, Black Men Built the Capitol, 124.

2. “Ending Slavery in the District of Columbia.”

3. Washington, They Knew Lincoln, 120.

4. Custis, Recollections, 422.

5. Wood, Black Majority, 183.

6. LaBan, “Hercules.”

7. Scheib, Foreword, 7–9.

8. LaBan, “Hercules.”

9. Lee, “1786 Laboring Hands George Washington.”

10. “Kitchen.”

11. Ritter, Philadelphia and Her Merchants, 19.

12. Harris, Beyond Gumbo, 93.

13. Twohig, The Papers of George Washington, 8:189–90.

14. For a detailed exploration of the history of fireplace cooking in the American South, see Crump, Early American Southern Cuisine Hearthside Cooking.

15. Custis, Recollections, 422–23.

16. Ford, George Washington, 172–73.

17. LaBan, “Hercules.”

18. DaveManuel.com, http://www.davemanuel.com/inflation-calculator.php (accessed 15 December 2015).

19. Custis, Recollections, 422.

20. Ibid.

21. Ibid., 423.

22. Holland, The Invisibles, 53–54.

23. LaBan, “Hercules.”

24. LaBan, “Birthday Shock.”

25. Ibid.

26. Quoted in Wiencek, Imperfect God, 323–24.

27. Quoted in Hirschfeld, George Washington and Slavery, 15.

28. T. Fleming, Great Divide, 310.

29. Quoted in Hirschfeld, George Washington and Slavery, 70.

30. Quoted in ibid., 64.

31. Quoted in LaBan, “Birthday Shock.”

32. Quoted in ibid.

33. Lee, Experiencing Mount Vernon, 68.

34. LaBan, “Birthday Shock.”

35. Ibid.

36. Conkling, Memoirs, 151.

37. Frémont, Souvenirs of My Time, 97–98.

38. Bear, The Hemings Family of Monticello, 9–11.

39. Ibid.

40. Gordon-Reed, Hemingses of Monticello, 171–72.

41. “About Thomas Jefferson and Monticello.”

42. Bear, The Hemings Family of Monticello, 11.

43. McElveen, “James Hemings.”

44. Bear, The Hemings Family of Monticello, 11.

45. Quoted in ibid., 12.

46. Quoted in ibid.

47. Stanton, “Well-Ordered Household,” 8.

48. Ibid., 10.

49. Vlach, Back of the Big House, 43.

50. Pegge, Forme of Cury, 46.

51. Cutler and Cutler, Life Journals, 71–72.

52. Nathan, “Gourmet President.”

53. Stanton, “Well-Ordered Household,” 13–14.

54. Washington, They Knew Lincoln, 33.

55. Leni Sorensen interview with the author.

56. Stanton, “Well-Ordered Household,” 10.

57. Ibid., 10–11.

58. Ibid., 17–18.

59. Ibid., 19.

60. Hess, “Mr. Jefferson’s Table,” 44; “Thomas Jefferson’s Negro Grandchildren.”

61. Morley, Snow-Storm in August, 106.

62. Ibid.

63. Unless otherwise indicated, the next three paragraphs summarize material found in Rohrs, “Antislavery Politics,” and Edwards and Winston, “Commentary.”

64. Taylor, Slave in the White House, 171.

65. Rohrs, “Antislavery Politics,” 25; Edwards and Winston, “Commentary.”

66. “Modern Pharaoh,” 1.

67. Junior League of the City of Washington, City of Washington, 119.

68. Washington, They Knew Lincoln, 100.

69. Quoted in ibid., 77–78.

70. Ibid., 82–84.

71. Ibid.

72. Pinkser, Lincoln’s Sanctuary, 2.

73. Quoted in ibid., 88.

74. Ibid., 94.

75. Ibid., 179.

76. Quoted in Washington, They Knew Lincoln, 116.

77. “White House Appoints First Black Cabinet Member.”

78. McLeod, Dining with the Washingtons, 200.

79. Fowler, Dining at Monticello, 178.

CHAPTER 4

1. Berlin, Slaves without Masters, 136.

2. Junior League of the City of Washington, City of Washington, 95.

3. Ibid., 230.

4. Jaffe and Sherwood, Dream City, 4.

5. Ibid., 28–29.

6. Eighmey, Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen, 213.

7. Washington, They Knew Lincoln, 119–20.

8. Ibid.

9. “Washington Gossip.”

10. Leland, “Ana of the War.”

11. “New York Ice-Cream”; G. Johnson, Profiles in Hue, 62.

12. Pate, “Ice Cream Stores to Close.”

13. “Ice Cream as a Novelty.”

14. Quote from an unnamed newspaper in Junior League of the City of Washington, City of Washington, 246.

15. “Reminiscences of Wormley.”

16. “James Wormley’s Death,” 1.

17. “Beef Tea and Terrapin.”

18. “Reminiscences of Wormley.” This fortune was reportedly $200,000 (about $4,546,000 in 2015 dollars); “Colored People”; Emerson, “In and about Washington.”

19. “James Wormley.”

20. “Local Affairs.”

21. Goodbody, “Meal in the Nation’s Capital.”

22. “Stories of John Chamberlin.”

23. “Dishes of a Famous Cook”; “How to Cook Terrapin.”

24. “The White House Cook.”

25. Ibid.; Hardwick, “From Cleveland,” 693.

26. In many sources her name is alternatively spelled “Dolly,” and her last name is given as “Dandridge.” I use “Dollie” because that seems to be her preferred spelling.

27. Eblen, “Lexington Caterer.”

28. Quoted in ibid.

29. Ibid.

30. Ibid.

31. “A White House Cook.”

32. “With Mr. Roosevelt’s Consent.”

33. “The State’s Survey.”

34. “With Mr. Roosevelt’s Consent.”

35. Other sources spell the name “Pelonard” or “Petronard.”

36. “Zieman on the President’s Diet.”

37. St. Louis Post-Dispatch, 20 August 1889, 4.

38. Grundy, “In the White House.”

39. Ibid.

40. “Zieman on the President’s Diet”; “Red Ants.”

41. “Eating for Christmas.”

42. “Knows Good Cooking.”

43. “New White House Cook.”

44. “Flush Congressman.”

45. Eblen, “Lexington Caterer”; “Boarding School Miss Lost Watch.”

46. “Boarding School Miss Lost Watch.”

47. “Singing Evangelist”; Morning Herald, 2 October 1905, 1; “Pecan Cake for Miss Roosevelt”; “White House Cook Dead”; Eblen, “Lexington Caterer”; “Boarding School Miss Lost Watch.”

48. “Little Yellow Woman.”

49. Ibid.

50. Ibid.

51. “Hostilities at the White House.”

52. “Little Yellow Woman.”

53. “Intimidation.”

54. Some sources list the assailed as “J. D. A. Whitlaw.” “Police Court.”

55. “Little Yellow Woman.”

56. Summit County Beacon, 21 December 1881, 4.

57. “Little Yellow Woman.”

58. “Wedding Bells.”

59. “Wilson Will Enjoy Southern Cooking”; Parks, My Thirty Years, 125–26.

60. “Wedding Bells”; “White House Cook Elopes with Stonemason.”

61. “Getting Booker T.”

62. “What It Means to Be Colored.”

63. Welch, “South as It Might Be”; Baltimore Afro-American, 30 May 1931, 12; “White House Is Being Changed.”

64. Nesbitt, White House Diary, 78, 118.

65. Ibid.

66. Ibid., 141, 189.

67. Ibid., 141.

68. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 28.

69. Parks, Roosevelts, 69.

70. Ibid., 136, 141.

71. Dr. Maclyn Burg, “John Moaney,” oral history interview, 21 July 1972, 13, Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library, Museum and Boyhood Home, Abilene, Kans.

72. Ibid., 14.

73. Ibid., 1–3.

74. Ibid., 45.

75. Eisenhower Medical Center Auxiliary Cookbook Committee, Five-Star Favorites, 99; “John Moaney, Orderly.”

76. Butcher, My Three Years, 81.

77. Burg, “John Moaney,” oral history interview, 29–31.

78. Ibid., 39.

79. Drew, “Washington Merry-Go-Round.”

80. Parks, My Thirty Years, 41.

81. Ibid., 53.

82. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 159–60.

83. Burg, “John Moaney,” oral history interview, 15.

84. Booker, “Broke Barriers for D.C.’s Blacks.”

85. S. Eisenhower, Mrs. Ike, 286.

86. Bryant, Dog Days, 17.

87. Booker, “Broke Barriers for D.C.’s Blacks,” 16–17.

88. “Legion of Merit.”

89. D. Eisenhower, At Ease, 308n.

90. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 212–13.

91. Ibid.

92. Michael L. Gillette, “Zephyr Wright,” oral history interview, 5 December 1974, 1–2, Correspondence File, Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Library, Austin, Tex.; “Johnson Cook,” 21.

93. Gillette, “Zephyr Wright,” oral history interview, 4.

94. “Johnson Cook Has Seat of Honor.”

95. L. Walsh, “Lynda Bird.”

96. “Johnson Cook Has Seat of Honor.”

97. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 324–25.

98. Ibid., 327–28.

99. Gillette, “Zephyr Wright,” oral history interview, 27–28; M. Smith, “White House Cook.”

100. M. Smith, “Zephyr’s Wants Out Of the Kitchen”; “Heat in the Kitchen”; Gillette, “Zephyr Wright,” oral history interview, 27–28; M. Smith, “White House Cook.”

101. “Johnson Cook Has Seat of Honor.”

102. Brown, “Johnson and His ‘Boss.’”

103. “Power’s in LBJ Kitchen.”

104. Gillette, “Zephyr Wright,” oral history interview, 8.

105. Ibid., 11–14.

106. Caro, Master of the Senate, 888; Gillette, “Zephyr Wright,” oral history interview, 6–7; Thomas, Thanks for the Memories, 50.

107. Carpenter, Ruffles and Flourishes, 305.

108. Quoted in Tolbert, Bowl of Red, 11.

109. “Roberts Asks Wright for Information on LBJ’s Preference for Various Kinds of Beans,” Citation No. 2250, Tape: WH6403.11, Program No. 26, 18 March 1964, Audiovisual Collection, Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Library, Austin, Tex.

110. Tolbert, Bowl of Red, 12.

111. “Johnson Cook to Retire.”

112. Gillette, “Zephyr Wright,” oral history interview, 37.

CHAPTER 5

1. Ellis, Presidential Travel, 8.

2. Ibid., 169–70.

3. Ibid., 4.

4. Hardesty, Air Force One, 29.

5. Ellis, Presidential Travel, 74.

6. “The Pullman Company.”

7. Quinzio, Food on the Rails, 27.

8. Ibid., 29.

9. M’Bee, “He Has Prepared Food.”

10. Ibid.

11. Ibid.

12. “Grover Has Arrived.”

13. “Month’s Home on Wheels.”

14. Quoted in Landau, President’s Table, 42.

15. “Yessah, Mistah Taft.”

16. Quoted in ibid.

17. Standish, “Safety First.”

18. Haskin, “King of Cooks,” 24.

19. Ibid.

20. Ibid.

21. Parks, Roosevelts, 20.

22. Philadelphia Tribune, 6 January 1938, 20.

23. “Servant Campaigns.”

24. “Wife of F. D. R.’s Valet Campaigns.”

25. Parks, Roosevelts, 33–34; “F. D. R. Hails First Lady’s Maid.”

26. Parks, Roosevelts, 171.

27. Warm Springs, Georgia, promotional handout, n.d., n.p.

28. Lippman, Squire of Warm Springs, 235; R. Stevens, Hi-Ya Neighbor, 33.

29. Bishop, FDR’s Last Year, 764–65.

30. “Warm Springs Cook of Roosevelt Dies.”

31. Burns, “Thousands Visit Georgia Site.”

32. Berger, “At the White House Switchboard.”

33. Burns, “Thousands Visit Georgia Site.”

34. “Woman Who Cooked for Roosevelt Died.”

35. Ibid.

36. Vaccaro, “Truman Campaign Trip.”

37. Kerr, “U.S. Car No. 1.”

38. Bishop, A Day in the Life of President Kennedy, 21.

39. Jaffee, Presidential Yacht, 15; Kelly, Sequoia: Presidential Yacht, 32–33.

40. Jaffee, Presidential Yacht, 15.

41. Kelly, Sequoia: Presidential Yacht, x.

42. Ibid., 68.

43. “Negroes Wanted.”

44. “Filipino Mess Boys.”

45. Guzman, Bush Family Cook Book, 18.

46. Carr, “Negroes in the Armed Forces.”

47. Doyle, Inside the Oval Office, 3.

48. Quoted in Jaffee, Presidential Yacht, 31–32.

49. Ibid., 32.

50. Ibid.

51. Ibid., 40.

52. Ibid., 40–41.

53. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 123.

54. Ibid., 124.

55. Guzman, Bush Family Cook Book, 18.

56. “Cheap White House Lunch.”

57. Patterson, White House Staff, 368–69.

58. Ibid., 369.

59. Gamarekian, “It’s Cheap.”

60. San Mateo Times, 31 October 1969, 27.

61. “Nixons to Eat Turkey Dinner.”

62. Ron Jackson, memorandum for Madeline MacBean: “Proposed Menu Thanksgiving Day Dinner, Aspen Lodge, Camp David, 24 November 1977,” 17 November 1977, Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum, Atlanta, Ga.

63. Lukas, “And Then a New Wrinkle.”

64. “Nixon Gives Flooded City a Free Cookout.”

65. Ellis, Presidential Travel, 12.

66. “Carter Sold Yacht.”

67. O’Leary, “Reagan Won’t Sail.”

68. Except where noted, the following information is from Charlie Redden’s telephone interview with the author, 23 May 2016.

69. Greeley, “From the White House.”

70. Huetteman, “On Air Force One.”

71. K. Walsh, Air Force One, 28.

72. Ibid., 27; Hardesty, Air Force One, 17.

73. K. Walsh, Air Force One, 27.

74. Wanda Joell, telephone interview with the author, 14 November 2015.

75. K. Walsh, Air Force One, 29.

76. Hardesty, Air Force One, 13.

77. Ibid.

78. K. Walsh, Air Force One, 30.

79. Ibid., 28 (quoting Bob Schieffer).

80. Ibid., 30.

81. Huetteman, “On Air Force One.”

82. Ibid.

83. Richard Norton Smith, “Lee Simmons,” oral history interview, 1 December 2008, 9, 16, Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum, Ann Arbor, Mich; Huetteman, “On Air Force One.”

84. Smith, “Lee Simmons,” oral history interview, 9.

85. Ibid., 12.

86. Ibid., 13.

87. “Serving on Number 1.”

88. Ibid.

89. Smith, “Lee Simmons,” oral history interview, 15.

90. Ibid., 18–19.

91. “Serving on Number 1.”

92. Smith, “Lee Simmons,” oral history interview, 18–19.

93. “Serving on Number 1.”

94. Smith, “Lee Simmons,” oral history interview, passim.

95. Except where otherwise noted, the following information is from Joell’s telephone interview with the author.

96. Estep, “Suwanee Woman Recalls 9/11 aboard Air Force One.”

97. Ibid.

98. Ibid.

CHAPTER 6

1. Wharton, Social Life, 25.

2. Stanton, “Well-Ordered Household,” 9–10.

3. A. Smith, Drinking History, 212.

4. Charlton, “Wet or Dry.”

5. Prial, “Wine at the White House.”

6. Hailman, Thomas Jefferson on Wine, 128.

7. Prial, “Wine at the White House.”

8. “Studebaker’s White House Brandy.”

9. Hennessy, “Coolidge Used the White House Cellar.”

10. “Hayes’s Compromise.”

11. Anderson Intelligencer, 17 February 1881, 2.

12. American Citizen, 6 April 1878, 1.

13. “Minor Notes.”

14. New York Tribune, 29 April 1878, 4.

15. “White House.”

16. “Famous Chef Dead.”

17. “President’s Table.”

18. “Famous Chef Dead.”

19. “Congressional Gastronome.”

20. “Echoes.”

21. “President’s Table.”

22. “Our Washington Letter.”

23. “Act of ‘Drys.’”

24. “Death of Major Brooks.”

25. “Custodian of White House Dies.”

26. “Death of Major Brooks.”

27. New York Times, 8 September 1926, 1.

28. “Death of Major Brooks.”

29. Jaffray, Secrets of the White House, 22–23.

30. Ibid., 62–63.

31. “Major Brooks Passes Away at Capital.”

32. New York Times, 8 September 1926, 1.

33. Appiah and Gates, “Brooks, Arthur.”

34. Mohr, “U.S. Prods Diplomats.”

35. Bradlee, Conversations, 187–88.

36. Gamarekian, “All the President’s Wines.”

37. Mohr, “U.S. Prods Diplomats.”

38. “Embassies Ready.”

39. D. West, “French Alarmed by Summit Wine.”

40. Pearson, “John Ficklin.”

41. Gerald M. Bell, letter to John Ficklin, 9 April 1975, Correspondence, Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum, Ann Arbor, Mich.

42. R. Thompson, “Choosing the President’s Wines.”

43. Ibid.

44. Ibid.

45. “Maître d’ to Presidents John Ficklin Retires.”

46. Gilder, “Some Recent Autobiography.”

47. Raconteur, “Washington Society.”

48. Williams, The Life of Rutherford Birchard Hayes, 312–13n.

49. Fields, My 21 Years, 36.

50. Ibid., 129–31.

51. Jenkins, “Eggnog.”

52. Kane, Southern Christmas Book, 11.

53. Langford, “In the White House.”

54. Nesbitt, Presidential Cookbook, 156.

55. “White House Workers Recall Their Service.”

56. Conroy, “White House Elixir.”

57. Ibid.

58. Ibid.

59. Ibid.

60. Ibid.

61. Ibid.

62. “Cocktail,” Oxford English Dictionary, http://bit.ly/2bBp7Fu (accessed 8 December 2015).

63. “What Roosevelt Told the Jury.”

64. “That White House Mint Bed.”

65. Quoted in Bullock, 173 Pre-Prohibition Cocktails, 13–14.

66. Fields, My 21 Years, 57.

67. Parks, Roosevelts, 87, 182.

68. Ibid., 99.

69. Ibid., 116.

70. J. B. West, Upstairs at the White House, 75.

71. K. Walsh, Air Force One, 65.

72. Ibid., 80.

73. Van Gelder, “Books of the Times.”

74. “Cocktail Issue Old.”

75. Hennessy, “T. R. Was Last.”

76. “Beer to Be Served.”

77. K. Walsh, Air Force One, 55.

78. “Obama, McCain Beer Generates Election Buzz.”

79. Grise, “Obama Reaches for the ‘Beer Vote.’”

80. Cooper and Goodnough, “In a Reunion over Beers, No Apologies.”

CHAPTER 7

1. Quoted in De Voe, Market Book, 304.

2. Samuelsson, “Celebrating Black Culinarians,” 150.

3. Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential, 121.

4. Blum, “Man Who Loved to Cook.”

5. Clarke, “What a Great Job,” 105.

6. Ibid.

7. Walter Scheib, telephone interview with author, 12 October 2010.

8. Baldwin, “White House Gets First Lady Chef.”

9. Blum, “Man Who Loved to Cook.”

10. Scheib and Friedman, White House Chef, 131–32.

11. Ibid., 134.

12. Ibid.

13. Trotter, Cooking with Patrick Clark, 180.

14. Quoted in Kennedy, “Chef Spices Up Hospital Life.”

15. Asimov, “Patrick Clark.”

16. Ibid.

17. “State Dinner Press Preview.”

18. Samuelsson, Yes, Chef, 286–87.

19. Ellis, Presidential Travel, 7.

20. “White House Chefs Look for Sensitivity.”

21. Joynt, “Roland Mesnier.”

22. Ibid.

23. Let’s Move! website, http://www.letsmove.gov/learn-facts/epidemic-child hood-obesity (accessed 12 December 2015).

24. Superville, “White House Staff Lose Weight.”

25. Ibid.

26. Major, Juba to Jive, 354.

27. Obama, American Grown, 9.

28. Information in the following section is from Kiana Farkash, interview with the author, 28 December 2015, Denver, Colo.

29. Obama, “Remarks by the First Lady.”

30. Farkash interview with the author.

31. Ibid.