, 88, 93, 97, 149, 190Amida Buddha, 49–50
aruheit , 88, 93, 97, 149, 190
asobi 
(amusement), 9, 119, 166
atsumono 
(soup for snacks), 139, 216n32
baking, in early modern era, 86, 97–100
Barbarians’ Cookbook. See Nanban ryrisho
ceremonial cuisine. See shikish ryri
Cha no yu kondate shinan 
(Guide to Meals for the Tea Ceremony, 1696), 83, 116, 122, 184; creation of text, 131–32; menus in, 137–45, 150–53; preparations for onari, 134– 36, 145–47. See also End
Genkan
chicken, 86, 94, 101–3, 106–9, 213n87
Chikamatsu Monzaemon 
, 130, 184
chimaki 
(sweet kudzu jelly or rice cake wrapped in leaves), 32, 33, 90, 91, 192
Collected Writings on Cuisine and an Outline on Seasonings. See Ryri mmoku chmish
cookbooks, 1, 118–19, 167, 184. See also culinary books; culinary texts
crane, 3, 6, 79, 82, 107, 115; ceremonial carving of, 39, 43; in soup, 12, 116, 124, 138, 148, 156; recipe for crane soup, 151–52
cuisine, 13, 14, 28; culinary culture, 30–31; as a fantasy with food, 15, 36–37, 183–85; in premodern Japan, 4, 5, 7, 9–10. See also honzen ryri; Japanese cuisine; kaiseki cuisine; Kyoto cuisine; nanban ryri; shippoku ryri; shikish ryri; shjin ryri
culinary books, 4, 8–9, 53, 112, 114; audience for, 116–17; as literature, 119–20. See also kondatesh
Culinary Text of the Yamanouchi House. See Yamanouchi ryrisho
culinary texts, 4, 53–55, 94, 112; contents of, 58–59, 76
culinary writings, 2–5. See also culinary books; culinary texts
Cwiertka, Katarzyna, 12, 28, 37, 118
Dai’ichi 
, 20
diet: in the early modern period, 4, 12, 27, 115; monotony of, 118; new foodstuffs in, 86, 94, 95
ebi no funamori 
(spiny lobster in the shape of a boat), 75, 77, 125–26
End Genkan 
, 39, 43, 84; biography of, 128–31
Ferguson, Priscilla Parkhurst, 30–31, 36, 53, 118, 166
flower arrangement, 134–35
godan 
(after meal), 61, 102, 143–44
Grui nichiy ryrish 
(Assembly of Standard Cookery Writings, 1689), 91, 109–10, 138, 167–68, 170
goshiki 
(five color combination), 80
Gyochryri ky’sho 
(Text for Banquets, the Cooking of Fish and Fowl), 121
hamori 
(wing serving), 75–78, 126
Harada Nobuo 
, 30, 94; on culinary writings, 113–14, 119, 161, 166– 67, 171
Harisei 
, 17
Hayashi Razan 
, 46, 107, 180; on hchnin, 40–41
hikimono 
(also hikidemono 
, hikide 
), 61, 65, 117
hchnin 
(men of the carving knife), 4, 6, 146; as authors, 3, 52–58, 62, 75, 87 (see also culinary texts); origin, 40– 41; duties, 8
hchshiki 
(knife ceremony). See shikibch
honzen 
(main tray), 60
honzen ryri 
(main tray cuisine), 28, 60–62; menus for, 62–66, 74–75, 124–26, 147–50
Hundred Tricks with Tofu (Tfu hyakuchin, 
), 18, 95, 173, 176–77
Iberian cuisine. See nanban ryri
Ikama 
(school of cuisine and knife ceremony), 20–21, 40
Ise Sadatake (Ise Teij) 
, 22, 47, 82, 91, 102. See also Teijzakki
Ishii Taijir 
, 42
itamae 
(restaurant chef), 4, 41, 114
Jippensha Ikku 
, 14–15, 110–11, 184
kaiseki cuisine 
, 21, 28–29; End Genkan’s views of, 150–53
kamaboko 
(fish-paste loaf), 72
karumeira 
(also karumeru, karumera; caramels), 93, 97, 190
Kasen no kumi’ito 
(Threading Together the Sages of Verse, 1748), 116, 117; composition of, 160–61; tempura recipe, 105–6
kashi 
(sweets), 90–92, 174–76; in Cha no yu kondate shinan, 140–41, 144– 45, 152; in Nanban ryrisho, 89–90; at Shimazu daimyo banquet, 149–50
kasutera 
, 88, 92, 94, 96; recipes, 97–99, 190
kata 
(codified movement), 43–44
Kawabata Dki 
, 31–35
kezurimono 
(shaved things), 80–82
knife ceremonies. See shikibch
kon 
(round of drinks), 67
konbu (kobu) 
(konbu seaweed), 68–70, 91
kondate 
(menu), 67
Kondatesen 
(Fish Trap of Recipes, 1760), 123, 160–64
kondatesh 
(menu collections), 114, 121–22
kno mono 
(pickles). See pickles
konpeit 
(type of candy), 88, 93, 96, 120
kuizome 
(ritual of feeding inedible foods to babies), 35–36
Kumakura Isao 
, 28–29, 94, 141
kygen 
(traditional comic theater), 42, 162–64
Kyoto, 15, 27; chefs in, 13, 15–16, 21–26
Kyoto cuisine (
), 21; ingredients used, 22–24; discourse of, 28
Kyoto traditional vegetables (
), 23–25
manabashi 
(metal chopsticks for knife ceremony), 43, 48
manaita 
(cutting table for knife ceremony), 43, 48–50
manj 
(stuffed bun), 90–92, 193
Manp ryri himitsu bako 
(A Secret Box of Ten Thousand Culinary Treasures), 94–95, 107–8
mei 
(appellation), 173–74, 184
mochi 
(rice cake): in confectionery, 58, 174–75; of Kawabata Dki, 32, 34; Mirror Rice Cakes, 186; in Nanban ryrisho, 90, 91; in zni, 83
mori 
(serving), 75–76. See also ebi no funamori; hamori; takamori
Nakamura 
, 17–18
Nakamurar 
, 18
namasu 
(fish salad): definition, 7; examples, 63–64, 125, 137–38, 148, 156, 157; symbolism, 180–81
nanban 
(southern barbarian), 87–88
nanbangashi 
(southern barbarian sweets), 92, 95–96. See also aruheit; bro; karumeira; kasutera; konpeit
nanban ryri 
(southern barbarian cuisine): Iberian inspired recipes, 103–4, 106; name for recipes, 108–11, 171
Nanban ryrisho 
(Southern Barbarians’ Cookbook): confectionery in, 88–93; significance of, 85–87, 100–101
Nihon ryri 
(Japanese cuisine), 3, 13. See also Japanese cuisine
Nikenjaya 
(two teahouses near Yasaka shrine), 18
nimono 
(simmered dish), 110
Noh theater, 15, 38, 44, 80, 81, 172; compared with a menu, 155; noh play menu, 162–64; texts for Noh plays (
, utaibon), 121–22
oasa 
(also oasanomono 
, the emperor’s breakfast), 32–35
kusa 
(school of cuisine and knife ceremony), 40, 55, 80
kusadono yori sden no kikigaki 
(Transcript of Lord Nkusa’s Oral Instructions, c. 1535–73), 69, 82; on dining etiquette, 62, 70; on hamori, 76–78
Okutan 
, 19–20
onari 
(visitation by a person of high rank), 72, 133–34
print culture, in the early modern era, 112–13
restaurants, in early modern Japan, 5–6, 16
Rodrigues, João, 70, 107; on banquets, 61–62, 73; on sake drinking in Japan, 66–67
ryri 
(cuisine, cooking method, dish), 13, 14, 29
ryribon 
(culinary book). See culinary books
Ryri chinmish 
(Anthology of Special Delicacies, 1764), 168, 171
Ryri kirikata hidensh 
(Secret Writings on Culinary Slicing, pre 1659), 114, 81; compilation of, 55–58, 202n10; on shikibch, 45, 47
Ryri kondatesh 
(Collection of Cooking Menus, 1671), 122–28
Ryri mmoku chmish 
(Collected Writings on Cuisine and an Outline on Seasonings), 11–12, 27, 116; contents of, 153–58
Ryri monogatari 
(Tales of Cookery, 1643), 93, 94, 105; on the after meal, 102–3; on chicken and fowl, 108–9, 116; contrast with ryrisho, 57–59, 85; organization, 123, 167–68, 170, 220n6
Ryri no sho 
(Culinary Text, 1573), 55, 76, 77
Ryri sankaiky 
(Delicacies of the Mountain and Sea, 1748), 105, 110; organization, 167–68, 178; recipes in, 169–72, 184
ryrisho 
(culinary text). See culinary texts
sakana 
(snack served with alcohol), 66–67; edible snacks, 71–73, 140; inedible snacks, 67–71
sake, 66
seasonality, 141–42, 151, 175–76
secret writings 
(hidensho), 54
Sen no Riky
, 56, 128–29; and Kawabata Dki, 33–34; recipes named for, 95, 171, 180; sweets used by, 91
Shij 
(school of cuisine and knife ceremony), 40–42, 56
Shijke shichigosan no kazarikata 
(Shij-House Decorations for 7–5–3 Trays, 1612), 55, 79–80
Shijry hchsho 
(Shij School Text on Food Preparation), 46, 48, 55, 67; recipes in, 58–59, 63, 72, 77
Shij Takashima 
(also Shijke Takashima 
), 48, 114, 147
shikibch 
(cutting knife ceremony), 8, 20–21; as an art, 42–47; occasions for, 38–39, 42; religious meanings of, 47–51
Shiki ryri kondate 
(Four Seasons of Menus, pub. after 1750), 116, 158–60
shikisankon 
(ceremony of the three rounds of drinks), 66–71, 114, 124, 133
shikish ryri 
(ceremonial cuisine), 6, 53, 125
shimadai 
(banquet display), 82, 156
shippoku ryri 
(Chinese-style table dining), 103
shjin ryri 
(Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), 21, 198n17
Shokoku meisan daikon ryri hidensh 
(Secret Digest of Exceptional Radish Dishes through-out the Land, 1785), 176–81
Shsekiken Sken 
27, 67; views on cuisine, 11–13, 154–55
sugar: adoption in Japan, 90–92; importation, 95–96; in candy making, 93
sumptuary laws, 108, 114–16, 141
sweets. See kashi
Takahashi Eiichi 
, 17, 20, 23–24
takamori 
(high serving), 73, 75, 185
Tales of Cookery. See Ryri monogatari
tamago 
(egg). See egg(s)
Teijzakki 
(Teij’s Miscellany), 22, 29, 40, 90
Tokugawa Ieyasu 
, 96, 105, 114
Tokugawa Tsunayoshi 
, 115, 134
Try setsuy ryri taizen 
(Complete Manual of Cuisine of Our School, 1714), 69–70, 83; on eggs, 94; on chicken, 107, 109; on shikibch, 48, 49
Toyotomi Hideyoshi 
, 21, 23, 34, 96, 102, 113
tsukemono 
(pickles). See pickles
uir mochi 
(type of sweet), 90, 191–92
Uosabur 
, 17
washoku 
(Japanese cuisine), 3, 13. See also Japanese cuisine
Yamabana Heihachijaya 
, 16
Yamanouchi ryrisho 
(Culinary Text of the Yamanouchi House), 54, 59–60; diagrams of honzen banquet, 62–66; shikisankon in, 67–69; snacks in, 71–72; snacks for tea in, 90–91
ykan 
(sweet adzuki bean jelly), 80, 91–92
zni 
(variety of simmered things), 83–84, 124
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