Contents
Acknowledgments
Publisher’s Note
Introduction
How to Use This Book
CHAPTER 1
Face Climbing—Dancing on the Rock
Footwork
Handholds
Body Position
Moving on Rock
CHAPTER 2
Crack Climbing—Climbing Cracks from Fingertip Width to Full-Body Chimneys
Splitters and Corners
Finger Jams
Hand and Foot Jams
Moving Up the Crack
Fist Jams
Off-Size Cracks
Off-Width Cracks
Squeeze Chimneys
Chimneys
CHAPTER 3
Climbing Gear—Outfitting for the Climb
Belay Devices
Carabiners
Chalkbag
Clothing
Cord
Crash Pad
Harness
Helmet
Quickdraws
Shoes
Rope Bags and Tarps
Ropes
Webbing Slings
The Ten Essentials
CHAPTER 4
Knots—Bringing the Rope to Life
Harness Tie-In Knots
Knots for Tying into Anchors
Knots for Tying Webbing and Cords into Loops
Knots for Joining Rappel Ropes and Top-Ropes
Rappel Safety Knots
Knots for Attaching Slings
Hitches for Rappelling and Belaying
CHAPTER 5
Belay Anchors and Lead Protection—Protecting Traditional Climbs
The Evolution of Climbing Gear
Placing Protection
Chocks
Camming Units
Ball Nuts
Big Bro Expandable Tubes
The Climbing Rack
Natural Protection
Fixed Protection
Equalizing Protection
Opposing Protection
The V-Angle
Rigging Multidirectional Anchors
Rigging Anchors with a Cordelette
Rigging Belay Anchors with Slings
Rigging Belay Anchors with the Climbing Rope
The Daisy Chain
Keeping the Belayer Down
CHAPTER 6
Belaying—Keeping Your Partner Safe
Rigging a Passive Belay Device
Belayer Position and Anchoring
Belaying a Top-Roped Climber
Belaying a Leader
Catching a Fall
Protecting for a Lead Fall onto the Belay
Lowering a Climber
Belaying with a Munter Hitch
Belaying a Leader with an Assisted Lock Device
Belaying with a High-Friction tube
Belaying the Second Climber
Climbing Communication
CHAPTER 7
Top-Roping—Climbing with the Safety of an Overhead Rope
Setting a Slingshot Top-Rope
Climbing with a Slingshot Top-Rope
Passing a Knot
Managing a Top-Belay Top-Rope
CHAPTER 8
Sport Climbing—Climbing Bolt-Protected Routes
Sport-Climbing Hazards
Climbing Style
Climbing the Route
Lowering from the Route
Belaying a Sport Route
Onsighting a Route
Working a Route
Resting
The Redpoint
Retreating from a Sport Route
CHAPTER 9
Traditional Lead Climbing—Leading with Protection from Nuts and Cams
Hazards
Traditional Rack
Topos
The Approach
The Route
Leading Strategy
The Protection System
The Physics of Falling
Keeping Your Head
Bailing
Following a Pitch
The First Lead
CHAPTER 10
Multipitch Free Climbs—Climbing High and Free
The Two-Person Team
Rope Management
Where to Belay
Hanging Belays
Fast and Light
Extra Gear for a Long Route
Time Budget
Three-Person Teams
CHAPTER 11
Getting Down—Returning to Earth
Walking Off
Downclimbing
Lowering
Rappelling
CHAPTER 12
Bouldering—Leaving the Rope at Home
The Bouldering Session
Bouldering Variety
Falling
Spotting
Bouldering Hazards
Environmental Concerns
CHAPTER 13
Training—Improving Your Mental and Physical Fitness for Rock Climbing
Warming Up
Work Your Weaknesses
Improving Technique
Power and Endurance
Climbing Strength
Balance
Training the Brain
Hydration and Nutrition
Rest Days
CHAPTER 14
Climbing Safe—Avoiding and Escaping Bad Situations
Self-Rescue and First-Aid Training
Self-Rescue Gear
Friction Hitches
Load-Releasable Knots
Ascending a Rope
Escaping a Belay
The Next Step
Hauling Your Partner
Rappelling Past a Knot
Tandem Rappel to Evacuate an Injured Partner
Appendix A—Climbing Rating Systems
Appendix B—Climbing Resources
Glossary
Index