Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore: 538–539
Accademia: 68, 119–128; David, 68, 113, 120–123; eating near, 318–319; gelato near, 324; general info, 66, 68, 119–120; guided tours, 59; map, 122; reservations, 8, 64–65, 119; self-guided tour, 120–128; sleeping near, 300–301
Accommodations: See Agriturismo; Sleeping; and specific destinations
Adam and Eve (Cranach): 144–145
Adam and Eve Banished from Eden (Masaccio): 256–257
Adam and Eve Tempted by the Serpent (Masolino): 257
Addresses, locating in Florence: 54
Adoration of the Magi (Botticelli): 139–140
Adoration of the Magi (da Vinci): 142
Adoration of the Magi (Fabriano): 134–135
Agriturismo: 24, 476–478; Crete Senese, 540–541; near Florence, 307, 310; near Montalcino, 534–535; near Pienza, 529–530; near Volterra, 509
Airfares (airlines): 6, 598–599; carry-on restrictions, 9
Airports: 580; Florence, 347, 580; Pisa, 414, 450–451, 580
Alabaster Museum (Volterra): 500
Alabaster Workshop (Volterra): 505
Allegory of Spring (Botticelli): 138–139
Altarpiece of the Linen-Drapers (Fra Angelico): 170
American Cemetery and Memorial: 554
Amerigo Vespucci Airport: 347, 580
Ammanati, Bartolomeo: 115, 269
Annalena Altarpiece (Fra Angelico): 171
Annunciation (da Vinci): 141–142
Annunciation (Fra Angelico): 174
Annunciation (Martini): 134
Antipasti (appetizers): 27, 28–29, 40–41. See also Eating
Apartment rentals, in Florence: 310–311
Archaeological museums: Chiusi, 556–557; Fiesole, 98; Siena, 374; Volterra, 506
Archimedes Screw Model: 289
Argenti/Silverworks Museum: 279–280
Arnolfo di Cambio: 76, 183, 198, 235, 236
Arno River: 8, 46, 246, 338, 416; floods, 243; views of, 146–147, 247–248
Art: books, 600, 602; guided tours, 58–61. See also Renaissance; and specific artists and artworks
“Artisan Lane” (Volterra): 494
Art museums: daily reminder, 56–57; hours, 62; reservations, 8, 63–65; sightseeing tips, 16–18, 62–64. See also specific museums
Asciano: 538; sleeping, 540–541
Assisi: train travel, 344, 413, 554
ATMs: 11–14
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 9, 47, 599
Bacchus (Michelangelo): 155–156
Back Door travel philosophy: 44
Bandini Museum (Fiesole): 98
Banks: 10, 11–12. See also Money
Baptism of Christ (Verrocchio): 142
Baptistery (Florence): 67, 78–79, 106–108
Baptistery (Pisa): 425, 440–442
Baptistery Doors (Ghiberti): 67, 78, 106–108; at the Bargello, 161–162; at the Duomo Museum, 185–187; map, 107
Bardi Chapel (Santa Croce): 239–240
Bargello (Museo Nazionale): 79–80, 153–163; with children, 331; general info, 66, 80, 153–154; maps, 155, 160; self-guided tour, 154–163
Baroncelli Chapel (Santa Croce): 240–241
Bars and cafés: 31–32, 339, 340, 410–411. See also Wine bars
Battle of San Romano (Uccello): 135–136
Beccafumi, Domenico: 371
Bell tower: See Campanile
Bernini, Gian Lorenzo: 125, 384
Biking: Florence, 55, 333; Lucca, 457, 458
Birth of Venus (Botticelli): 140
Bookstores: Florence, 54–55; Siena, 360
Borgo Stretto (Pisa): 421–422
Bosco ai Frati Altarpiece (Fra Angelico): 171–172
Botticelli, Sandro: 138–141, 206, 270, 564
Boutiques: 335
Brancacci Chapel: 90–91, 254–263; general info, 67, 91, 254–255; map, 256; reservations, 64, 254; self-guided tour, 255–263
Bravio delle Botti (Montepulciano): 374, 516
Breakfast: overview, 25–26
Brindisi, train travel: 344
Bronze Doors (Ghiberti): See Baptistery Doors
Brunelleschi, Filippo: 68, 69, 72, 91, 161–162, 228, 229, 242, 251; Death Mask, 195; Duomo, 75–80, 104, 192, 194–195
Brunello di Montalcino: 42, 336, 512, 530, 531, 535–537
Brutus (Michelangelo): 156–157
Budgeting: 6–7
Buses: 592; Fiesole, 96; Florence, 55–58, 61, 343, 344–345; Lucca, 453, 470; map, 583; Montalcino, 531, 537–538; Montepulciano, 513–514, 525; Pienza, 530; San Gimignano, 479, 481, 489; Siena, 359, 363, 413–414; Tuscany, 472–473; Volterra, 490, 511
Business hours: 10
BusItalia (SITA) Bus Station: 344–345
Cabs: See Taxis
Cafés: See Bars and cafés
Campanile (bell tower): Florence, 67, 78, 106; Siena, 379. See also Leaning Tower of Pisa
Campo, Il (Siena): See Il Campo
Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa): See Field of Miracles
Camposanto Cemetery (Pisa): 425, 442–443
Canova, Antonio: 277–278
Cantine del Redi (Montepulciano): 522
Canto ai Quattro Pagoni: 325
Cappella Brancacci: See Brancacci Chapel
Cappelle Medicee: See Medici Chapels
Car insurance: 594–595
Car leasing: 595
Car travel (driving): 581, 595–598; Cortona, 543; distance and time, 596; driving tours, 61; Florence, 345–347; Lucca, 453, 456; Montalcino, 531; Montepulciano, 514, 525–526; Pienza, 527; Pisa, 419; road signs, 597; San Gimignano, 479, 481, 489; Siena, 359; Tuscany, 473–475; Volterra, 490
Casa Buonarroti: 67, 88–89, 128
Casa di Dante: 80–81
Casali Palace (Cortona): 548
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals; and Duomo
Catherine of Siena, Saint: 362, 374–375, 381, 396
Cellini, Benvenuto: 86, 115, 117, 157
Cell (mobile) phones: 574–576
Central Market: See Mercato Centrale
Chiesas: See Churches and cathedrals
Children: 328–333; eating tips, 328–329; sightseeing tips, 329–330; top sights and activities, 330–333
Chiusi: 556–557
Chiusi Archaeological Museum: 556–557
Chiusi Civic Museum: 557
Chiusure: 538–539; sleeping, 540
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 560; sightseeing tips, 18, 51, 54; Orsanmichele Church, 81–82, 110–113, 338; San Bartolo (San Gimignano), 483–484; San Biagio (Montepulciano), 522–523; San Domenico (Siena), 362, 374; San Francesco (Cortona), 549; San Francesco (Fiesole), 97; San Francesco (Montepulciano), 519–520; San Frediano (Lucca), 463–464; San Giovanni (Lucca), 456, 463; San Lorenzo, 69, 72–73, 107; San Martino (Lucca), 460, 462; San Miniato, 67, 93–96, 338; San Niccolò (Cortona), 550; San Sisto (Pisa), 423; Santa Croce, 87–88, 235–244; Sant’Agostino (San Gimignano), 484; Santa Margherita (Cortona), 550; Santa Maria del Carmine, 251–252, 254; Santa Maria Novella, 89, 224–234; Santo Spirito, 91, 128, 251. See also Duomo
Civic Museum: See Museo Civico
Clothing sizes: 607
Coffee: 37–38, 149–150. See also Bars and cafés
Coin (department store): 335
Colona dell’ Marzocco (Montepulciano): 516
Concert, The (Titian): 277
Consulates: 580
Contucci Cantina (Montepulciano): 520–521
Cooking classes: Cortona, 543; Florence, 60–61; Lucca, 457; Montalcino, 534; Montepulciano, 513; Volterra, 509
Corso Italia (Pisa): 421
Cortona: 541–554; eating, 552–553; helpful hints, 543–544; map, 544–545; orientation, 541–542; sights, 548–550; sleeping, 550–552; tourist information, 542; transportation, 542–543, 553–554; walking tour, 544–547
Cortona Duomo: 547
Cortona Tablet: 548
Costs of trip: 6–7
Costume Gallery: 279
Cranach, Lucas: 144–146
Crete Senese: 538–541
Crucifixion (Brunelleschi): 229
Crucifixion (Giotto): 227
Crucifixion with St. Dominic (Fra Angelico): 165, 167
Crucifixion with Saints (Fra Angelico): 173
Cruise ships: 347–351
Cuisine: Florence, 40–41; Lucca, 470; San Gimignano, 479; Tuscany, 472; Volterra, 509. See also Cooking classes; Eating
Currency and exchange: 11–13
Customs regulations: 16
Daddi, Bernardo: 112
Dante Alighieri: 77, 116–117, 183, 206, 228–229, 566; House, 80–81; Santa Croce memorial, 239
Davanzati Palace: 82–83
David (Bernini): 125
David (Donatello): 79, 124, 158, 159–160
David (Michelangelo): 68, 113, 120–123, 157, 198
David (Verrocchio): 124, 125, 158
Da Vinci, Leonardo: 116, 141–142; Museums, 74–75, 330
Della Robbia, Andrea: 98, 497, 508, 521, 522, 533–534
Della Robbia, Giovanni: 98
Della Robbia, Luca: 68, 95, 162–163, 190–191, 242, 497
Department stores: 335
Deposition from the Cross (Fra Angelico): 167–168
Desiderio da Settignano: 161
Dining: See Eating
Dinner theater: 338–339
Diocesan Museum (Cortona): 548–549
Diocesan Museum (Pienza): 528
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Donatello: 116, 384, 389; Bargello, 158–161; biographical sketch, 160; David, 79, 124, 158, 159–160; Duomo Museum, 184, 189–190, 191–192; Orsanmichele Church, 111–112; Palazzo Vecchio, 199, 206
Driving: See Car travel
Duccio di Buoninsegna: 133, 370, 372, 383, 389–392, 396
Duke and Duchess of Urbino (Piero della Francesca): 136
Duomo (Cortona): 547
Duomo (Fiesole): 98
Duomo (Florence; Santa Maria dei Fiori): 75–79, 104–106; climbing the dome, 67, 78, 331; eating near, 319–320; gelato near, 324–325; general info, 66, 75; maps, 76, 105; nightlife near, 340; self-guided tour, 75–79. See also Baptistery; Baptistery Doors
Duomo (Montepulciano): 521–522
Duomo (Pienza): 527–528
Duomo (Pisa): 424, 432–438; map, 433
Duomo (Siena): 371–372, 377–387; general info, 362, 372, 377–378; map, 380; self-guided tour, 379–387
Duomo (Volterra): 496–497
Duomo Museum (Florence): 79, 181–196; general info, 66, 79, 181–182; maps, 182, 189; self-guided tour, 182–196
Duomo Museum (Pisa): 425–426, 446
Duomo Museum (Siena): 372, 388–392; general info, 362, 372, 388
Eating: 312–327; budgeting, 7; with children, 328–329; general information, 25–40; seasonal produce, 26; tipping, 15; near the Accademia, 318–319; Cortona, 552–553; dinner theater, 338–339; near the Duomo, 319–320; Fiesole, 98–99; glossary of terms, 612; Lucca, 468–469; money-saving tips, 12, 31, 317; Montalcino, 535–537; Montepulciano, 524–525; in Oltrarno, 323–327; ordering tips, 29–30; in or near Mercato Centrale, 313, 316–318; between Palazzo Vecchio and Santa Croce, 322–323; near Piazza della Signoria, 320–322; Pisa, 449–450; with a Ponte Vecchio view, 322; San Gimignano, 487–489; near Santa Maria Novella, 313; Siena, 407–413; Volterra, 509–511. See also Cuisine; Gelato; Markets; Pizzerias
Ecce Homo (Fra Bartolomeo): 172
Electricity: 10
E-mail: See Internet access
Embassies: 580
Enoteche: See Wine bars
Entertainment: See Nightlife
Etruscan Arch (Volterra): 491, 494
Etruscan Museum (Cortona): 548
Etruscan Museum (Volterra): 501, 504–505
Etruscans (Etruscan Empire): 373, 471, 489–490, 491, 494, 500–505, 517, 541, 548, 550, 565
Euro currency: 11–12
Exchange rate: 11
Fabriano, Gentile da: 134–135
Families: See Children
Faraday, Michael: 292
Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella: 89–90, 226, 336
Fashion boutiques: 335
Federico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza (Piero della Francesca): 136
Ferragamo: 335
Festivals: 603–606; Lucca, 456; Pisa, 420; Volterra, 490
Field of Miracles (Pisa): 416, 424–425, 439–446; map, 441; self-guided tour, 440–446; tickets, 423
Fiesole: 96–99
Fiesole Archaeological Area and Museum: 98
Fiesole Duomo: 98
Flea market: 335
Flights: See Airfares
Floods in Florence: 243
Florence: 46–351; at a glance, 66–67; with children, 328–341; daily reminder, 56–57; eating, 312–327; helpful hints, 51, 54–55; nightlife, 337–341; orientation, 46–61; planning tips, 46–49; shopping, 334–336; sights, 62–293; sleeping, 294–311; tourist information, 50–51; tours, 58–61; transportation, 55–58, 342–351; walking tours: Oltrarno, 245–253; Renaissance, 100–118. See also specific sights
Florence American Cemetery and Memorial: 554
Florence Duomo (Santa Maria dei Fiori): 75–79, 104–106; climbing the dome, 67, 78, 331; eating near, 319–320; gelato near, 324–325; general info, 66, 75; maps, 76, 105; nightlife near, 340; self-guided tour, 75–79. See also Baptistery; Baptistery Doors
Florence Duomo Museum (Museo dell’Opera del Duomo): 79, 181–196; general info, 66, 79, 181–182; maps, 182, 189; self-guided tour, 182–196
Florence Victorious over Pisa (Giambologna): 158
Florentia: 60
Florentine, The: 50–51
Fonte Gaia (Quercia): 362, 364–365, 374
Food: groceries and delis, 34–35; guided tours, 60–61; Pecorino cheese, 35, 40, 526; seasonal produce, 26. See also Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Markets; Pizzerias
Fountain of Joy (Quercia): 362, 364–365, 374
Fra Angelico: 69, 165–177, 179, 548, 549
Fra Bartolomeo: 69, 127, 172–173, 497
Francis, Saint: 241
Franciscan Ethnographic Missionary Museum (Fiesole): 97
Frati Altarpiece (Fra Angelico): 171–172
Gaddi, Taddeo: 240–241, 243–244
Galileo Galilei: 285–287, 291, 331, 431, 434, 568; tomb, in Santa Croce, 238
Galileo Galilei Airport (Pisa): 414, 450–451, 580
Galileo Science Museum: 87, 281–293, 331; general info, 66, 87, 281–282; self-guided tour, 282–293
Galleria degli Uffizi: See Uffizi Gallery
Galleria dell’Accademia: See Accademia
Gallery of Modern Art: 279
“Gates of Paradise” (Ghiberti): See Baptistery Doors
Gelato: 36–37, 41; festival, in Florence, 8, 605; Fiesole, 99; Florence, 110, 324–325; Pisa, 421; San Gimignano, 489; Siena, 411, 413; Volterra, 511
Ghiberti, Lorenzo: See Baptistery Doors
Ghirlandaio, Domenico: 127, 206, 230–232, 499–500
Giambologna: 114–115, 127, 157–158, 163
Giotto di Bondone: 116, 227, 239–240; bell tower, 67, 78, 106; Uffizi Gallery, 132–134
Gozzoli, Benozzo: 74, 127, 220–222, 484
Grien, Baldung: 144
Grom: Florence, 110, 324–325; Siena, 411, 413
Gucci Museum: 335
Guelphs vs. Ghibellines: 566
Guidebooks: 600; Rick Steves, 599; updates, 3, 9, 361, 420
Guides: See Tour guides
Guinigi Tower (Lucca): 464
Habakkuk (Donatello): 190
Haring, Keith: 420
Helpful hints: Cortona, 543–544; Florence, 51, 54–55; Lucca, 456–457; Montalcino, 531; Montepulciano, 514; Pisa, 419–420; San Gimignano, 481; Siena, 360–361; Volterra, 490–491
Henry VII’s Tomb (Pisa): 437
Hill towns of Tuscany: 471–557; maps, 473, 474–475; sleeping, 475–478; transportation, 472–475. See also specific destinations
History: 558–569; timeline, 565–569
Holidays: 603–606
Holy Family (Michelangelo): 148–149
Holy Family (Raphael): 270
Hospital of the Innocents: 68
Hostels: 24; Cortona, 551; Florence, 305–306, 307; Lucca, 467; Volterra, 509
Hotels: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Ice cream: See Gelato
Il Campo (Siena): 356, 362, 363–365; eating, 409–411; sleeping near, 400–401
Il Porcellino (statue): 82
“Il Sodo” tombs (near Corton): 548
Information sources: See Tourist information
Internet access: 580–581; Florence, 54; Lucca, 456; Siena, 360; Volterra, 491
Irish pubs, in Florence: 339
Itineraries: 47–49
Jeremiah (Donatello): 190
Jesus, Peter, and the Disciples Pay the Tribute Money (Masaccio): 257–258
John the Baptist, Saint: 185
Katherina von Bora (Cranach): 146
Keller, Deane: 443
Labors of Hercules (Pollaiolo): 137–138
La Gravida (Raphael): 271
Lamentation (Fra Angelico): 170
Language: online translation tip, 10–11; restaurant phrases, 612; survival phrases, 611
Language barrier: 572
Last Judgment (Fra Angelico): 169
Last Judgment (Orcagna): 228–229
Laundry: Florence, 55; Lucca, 457; Montepulciano, 514; Siena, 360; Volterra, 491
Laurentian Medici Library: 72–73, 126
La Vena di Vino (Volterra): 505–506
Leaning Tower of Pisa: 424, 427–431; with children, 333; general info, 427–429; map, 428
Leather: 73, 334–335; school, 88, 241–242
Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci: 74–75, 330
Leo X, Pope: 72, 151–152, 201, 202, 210, 211, 273, 564, 568
Leo X and Cardinals (Raphael): 151–152
Lippi family: 72, 127, 137, 220, 222, 232, 255, 261, 262–263, 269–270
Live music: See Music
Livorno: 347–351
Local guides: See Tour guides
Lorenzetti brothers: 370, 371, 396–397, 549
Lucca: 452–470; eating, 468–469; helpful hints, 456–457; history of, 461; map, 454–455; planning tips, 452–453; sights, 458–465; sleeping, 465–468; tourist information, 453; tours, 457; transportation, 453, 456, 470
Lucca Cathedral Museum: 463
Lucca Clock Tower: 459
Machiavelli, Niccolò: 117, 207, 211, 239, 600
Madonna and Child (Donatello): 389
Madonna and Child (Lippi): 269–270
Madonna and Child with Angels (Giotto): 132–133
Madonna and Child with Angels (Lippi): 137
Madonna and Child with John the Baptist (Michelangelo): 156
Madonna dell’Impannata (Raphael): 270
Madonna del Voto Chapel (Siena): 384
Madonna of the Goldfinch (Raphael): 150
Madonna of the Grand Duke (Raphael): 272–273
Madonna of the Rosary (Vasari): 232–233
Madonna with Child and St. John the Baptist (Raphael): 274
Madonna with the Long Neck (Parmigianino): 148
Maestà (Duccio): 390–391
Maestà (Martini): 395
Magi Chapel: 220–222
Mail: 581. See also Post offices
Maps: about, 599–600; legend, 2. See also Map Index
Markets: 35; seasonal produce, 26; Cortona, 543; Fiesole, 97; Florence, 73–74, 82, 317–318, 333–336; guided tours, 60–61; Lucca, 456; Montalcino, 531, 533; Montepulciano, 514; Pienza, 527; Pisa, 419–420; San Gimignano, 481; Siena, 360; Volterra, 490
Martelli Chapel: 72
Martini, Simone: 134, 370, 395–396, 426
Martin Luther (Cranach): 145
Mary Magdalene (Donatello): 192
Mary Magdalene (Titian): 275
Masaccio: 227–228, 426; Brancacci Chapel, 256–262
Medici family: 214–215, 559, 561, 562–563, 567–568; family tree, 215. See also specific family members
Medici, Cosimo de (the Elder): 72, 83, 85–86, 165, 171, 179, 198–207, 214, 215, 218–221, 226, 233, 267, 269, 270, 422, 567, 568
Medici, Giuliano de: 215; tomb of, 211–213
Medici, Lorenzo de (the Magnificent): 74, 116, 138, 152, 202, 214, 215, 218–221, 563–564; tomb of, 213
Medici, Lorenzo de, II: 215; tomb of, 211
Medici Chapels: 73, 208–217; general info, 66, 73, 208–209; map, 210; self-guided tour, 209–217
Medici Fortress and Archaeological Park (Volterra): 506
Medici-Riccardi Palace: 74, 109, 218–223; self-guided tour, 219–223
Medici Venus: 143–144
Medieval Festival (Volterra): 490
Memmi, Lippo: 484
Mercato Centrale: 73–74, 317–318, 336; eating in or near, 313, 316–318
Mercato Nuovo: 82
Mercury (Giambologna): 157
Metric system: 605–607
Michelangelo Buonarroti: 116, 128, 564; Accademia, 120–126; Bargello, 128, 155–157; David, 68, 113, 120–123, 157, 198; Duomo Museum, 128, 188; guided tours, 60; House (Casa Buonarroti), 67, 88–89, 128; Laurentian Medici Library, 72–73, 126; Medici Chapels, 128, 209–213, 216–217; Palazzo Vecchio, 113–114, 202; Santo Spirito, 91, 128; tomb, in Santa Croce, 128, 238–239; Uffizi Gallery, 128, 148–149
Milan: bus travel, 414; train travel, 344, 470
Mobile phones: 574–576
Money-saving tips: 10, 12; eating, 12, 31, 317; sleeping, 12, 20; trains, 585
Montalcino: 530–538; eating, 535–537; helpful hints, 531; map, 532; sights, 533–534; sleeping, 534–535; tourist information, 531; transportation, 531, 537–538; wine, 42, 530, 531, 535–537
Montalcino City Hall: 533
Montalcino Fortezza: 533
Montalcino Museums: 533–534
Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey: 538–539
Montepulciano: 512–526; eating, 524–525; helpful hints, 514; map, 515; sights/activities, 520–523; sleeping, 523; tourist information, 513; transportation, 513–514, 525–526; walking tour, 514–520; wine, 42, 512, 513, 520–521, 522
Montepulciano Civic Museum: 522
Montepulciano Duomo: 521–522
Monticchiello: eating, 524–525
Movies, recommended: 602–603
Movie theater, in Florence: 341
Musei di Montalcino: 533–534
Museo Civico (Civic Museum): Chiusi, 557; Montepulciano, 522; San Gimignano, 484–485. See also Siena Civic Museum
Museo dei Ragazzi: 330
Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca e della Città di Cortona: 548
Museo delle Sinopie (Pisa): 425, 445–446
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo: See Florence Duomo Museum
Museo dell’Opera e Panorama (Siena): See Siena Duomo Museum
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure: 69, 331
Museo Diocesano (Cortona): 548–549
Museo Diocesano (Pienza): 528
Museo di San Marco: See Museum of San Marco
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Volterra): 501, 504–505
Museo Galilei e Istituto di Storia della Scienza: See Galileo Science Museum
Museo Leonardo da Vinci: 74–75, 330
Museo Missionario Etnografico Francescano (Fiesole): 97
Museo Nazionale del Bargello: See Bargello
Museo Nazionale di San Matteo (Pisa): 426
Museum of Musical Instruments: 127
Museum of Precious Stones: 69, 331
Museum of San Marco: 69, 164–180; general info, 66, 69, 164–165; maps, 166, 175; self-guided tour, 165–180
Museum of the Sinopias (Pisa): 425, 445–446
Museums: daily reminder, 56–57; hours, 62; reservations, 8, 63–65; sightseeing tips, 16–18, 62–64. See also specific museums
Music: Florence, 338–339; Gregorian chants, 94, 539; Lucca, 456
Musical Instruments Museum: 127
Nanni di Banco: 111
Naples: bus travel, 414; train travel, 344, 582
Napoleon Bonaparte: 143, 270–271, 278, 461, 547, 568
New Sacristy (Medici Chapels): 73, 210–213, 216–217
Niccolò da Uzzano (Donatello): 160–161
Nightlife: budgeting, 7; Florence, 337–341; Siena, 411
Odeon Cinema: 341
Oltrarno: 245–253; eating, 323–327; maps, 92–93, 248–249; sleeping, 306–307; walking tour, 246–253
Orcagna Brothers: 112, 228–229
Orcagna Chapel (Santa Maria Novella): 228–229
Orchestra della Toscana: 338
Organized tours: See Tours
Orsanmichele Church: 81–82, 110–113, 338
Oviesse: 335
Packing checklist: 609
Palatine Gallery: 267–278
Palazzo Comunale (Montepulciano): 518–519
Palazzo Davanzati: 82–83
Palazzo dei Priori (Volterra): 494–495
Palazzo Mansi (Lucca): 464
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi: 74, 109, 218–223; general info, 67, 218–219; self-guided tour, 219–223
Palazzo Pfanner (Lucca): 464–465
Palazzo Piccolomini (Pienza): 528
Palazzo Pitti: See Pitti Palace
Palazzo Strozzi: 84
Palazzo Vecchio: 85–86, 113–114, 197–207; with children, 197–198, 330; general info, 66, 86, 197–198; maps, 114, 200, 205; self-guided tour, 198–207
Palazzo Viti (Volterra): 499
Palio, in Siena: 368–369, 399, 605
Parco Archeologico (Volterra): 506
Parco delle Cascine: 332
Parmigianino, Il: 148
Passports: 7–8
Pasta: overview, 28–29. See also Eating
Pazzi Chapel (Santa Croce): 242
Pellegrinaio Hall (Siena): 373
Peter Baptizing Converts (Masaccio): 259
Peter Heals a Cripple (Masolino): 259–260
Peter Heals the Sick with his Shadow (Masaccio): 261
Peter Preaches to a Crowd (Masolino): 258–259
Peter Resurrects the Son of Theophilus (Masaccio): 260–261
Peter Shares the Wealth with the Poor (Masaccio): 261–262
Phone numbers, useful: 580
Phones: 572–580
Piazza d’Azeglio: 332
Piazza de’ Frescobaldi: 252
Piazza dei Cavalieri (Pisa): 422–423
Piazza dei Ciompi, flea market: 335
Piazza del Carmine: 251–252
Piazza del Duomo (Cortona): 547
Piazza del Duomo (San Gimignano): 482–483
Piazza della Cisterna (San Gimignano): 479, 481–482
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro (Lucca): 458–459
Piazza della Passera: 249–250
Piazza della Repubblica (Cortona): 542, 546
Piazza della Repubblica (Florence): 83–84, 110, 332, 340
Piazza della Signoria: 84–86; eating near, 320–322; sleeping near, 302–303
Piazza delle Vettovaglie (Pisa): 422
Piazza del Popolo (Montalcino): 533
Piazza Demidoff: 340
Piazza Garibaldi (Cortona): 544–546
Piazza Garibaldi (Pisa): 421
Piazza Grande (Montepulciano): 518–519
Piazzale Michelangelo: 67, 92–93, 332
Piazza Pio II (Pienza): 527
Piazza San Michele (Lucca): 460
Piazza Santa Croce: 236, 238, 340
Piazza Santo Spirito: 251, 340–341
Piazza Signorelli (Cortona): 546–547
Piazza S.S. Annunziata: 68, 319
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (Pisa): 420
Piccolomini Altar (Siena): 382
Piccolomini Library (Siena): 385–387
Picnics (picnicking): 35–36. See also Markets
Pienza: 526–530
Pienza Duomo: 527–528
Piero della Francesca: 136
Pietàs (Michelangelo): 126, 188
Pinacotecas: San Gimignano, 484; Siena, 362, 369–371; Volterra, 499–500
Pinocchio (Collodi): 96
Pinturicchio (Bernardino di Betto): 377, 385–387
Pisa: 415–451; eating, 449–450; helpful hints, 419–420; maps, 418, 441; orientation, 416; planning tips, 416; sights, 424–446; sleeping, 447–449; tourist information, 417; tours, 420; transportation, 417, 419, 450–451; walking tour, 420–423
Pisa Duomo: 424, 432–438; map, 433
Pisa Duomo Museum: 425–426, 446
Pisa Leaning Tower: See Leaning Tower of Pisa
Pisano family: 193, 379, 382–383, 390, 424, 425, 426, 430, 435–438, 440, 441–442, 446
Pitti Palace: 90, 250, 264–280; general info, 67, 90, 264–266; maps, 265, 268; self-guided tour, 266–280
Pizzerias (pizza): 31; Cortona, 553; Florence, 316–317, 318, 322, 323–324, 327, 328; Lucca, 469, 470; Montalcino, 535; Pisa, 449; Siena, 409, 410, 412; Volterra, 510–511
Pollaiolo, Antonio del: 137–138
Ponte di Mezzo (Pisa): 421
Ponte Vecchio: 67, 86, 117–118, 246–247, 339; eating near, 322; eating with a view, 323–324; gelato near, 325; sleeping near, 303–304
Pontormo (Jacopo Carucci): 464
Population: 8
Porta all’Arco (Volterra): 491, 494
Porta al Prato (Montepulciano): 513, 514, 516
Porta San Frediano: 252
Porta San Giovanni (San Gimignano): 481
Portrait of a Lady (Titian): 276
Portrait of a Man (Titian): 276
Portrait of a Woman (Raphael): 271
Portrait of Pietro Aretino (Titian): 276–277
Portrait of Tommaso Inghirami (Raphael): 273
Precious Stones Museum: 69, 331
Primavera (Botticelli): 138–139
Prisoners (Michelangelo): 123–125
Prodotti Tipici (Siena): 376
Ptolemy: 284
Pubs, in Florence: 339
Puccini, Giacomo: 456, 459; House (Lucca), 464
Quattro Santi Coronati (di Banco): 111
Quercia, Jacopo della: 364–365, 373–374, 462
Ramaio Cesare (Montepulciano): 521
Rape of the Sabine Women (Giambologna): 114–115, 127
Reader feedback: 43
Renaissance: 102–104, 192, 559, 561, 562–564; guided tours, 59–60; map, 103; timeline, 567–568; walking tour, 100–118. See also Bargello; Uffizi Gallery; and specific artists and artworks
Resources, Rick Steves: 599, 601
Restaurants: overview, 26–30. See also Eating
Roman numerals: 606
Roman Theater (Volterra): 500–501
Rome: bus travel, 414; train travel, 344, 413, 450, 470, 554
Room and board: See Eating; Sleeping
Rossini, Gioacchino: 239
Royal Apartments: 279
Sacra Famiglia (Michelangelo): 148–149
Sacra Famiglia (Raphael): 270
St. Catherine Sanctuary (Siena): 362, 374–375
St. Dominic (Fra Bartolomeo): 172–173
St. George (Donatello): 111, 161
St. John the Baptist (Donatello): 161, 384
St. John the Evangelist (Donatello): 184
St. Mark (Donatello): 112
St. Mark’s English Church: 338
St. Thomas Aquinas (Fra Bartolomeo): 173
San Bartolo Church (San Gimignano): 483–484
San Biagio Church (Montepulciano): 522–523
Sanctuary of St. Catherine (Siena): 362, 374–375
San Domenico Church (Siena): 362, 374
San Francesco Church (Cortona): 549
San Francesco Church (Fiesole): 97
San Francesco Church (Montepulciano): 519–520
San Frediano Church (Lucca): 463–464
San Galgano Monastery: 555–556
San Gimignano: 478–489; eating, 487–489; helpful hints, 481; map, 480; sights, 484–485; sleeping, 485–487; tourist information, 479; transportation, 479, 481, 489; walking tour, 481–484
San Gimignano Civic Museum: 484–485
San Gimignano Duomo: 483
San Gimignano Pinacoteca: 484
San Gimignano Towers: 482, 485
San Gimignano 1300: 485
San Giovanni Church (Lucca): 456, 463
San Giovanni d’Asso: 539–540
San Lorenzo Church: 69, 72–73, 107; Medici Chapels, 66, 73, 208–217
San Lorenzo Market: 73
San Lorenzo Museum: 72
San Marco Altarpiece (Fra Angelico): 171
San Marco Museum: See Museum of San Marco
San Martino Cathedral (Lucca): 460, 462
San Miniato Church: 67, 93–96, 338
San Niccolò Church (Cortona): 550
San Sisto Church (Pisa): 423
Santa Croce Church: 87–88, 235–244; general info, 66, 87–88, 235–236; map, 237; self-guided tour, 236, 238–244
Sant’Agostino Church (San Gimignano): 484
Santa Margherita Basilica (Cortona): 550
Santa Maria dei Fiori: See Florence Duomo
Santa Maria del Carmine: 251–252, 254. See also Brancacci Chapel
Santa Maria della Scala (Siena): 362, 373–374
Santa Maria Novella Church: 89, 224–234; eating near, 313; general info, 66–67, 89, 224–226; map, 225; self-guided tour, 226–234
Santa Maria Novella Museum: 233–234
Santa Maria Novella Perfumery: 89–90, 226, 336
Santa Maria Novella Station: 50, 342–344; eating, 343; sleeping near, 305; tourist information, 50
Santo Spirito Church: 91, 128, 251
Santo Stefano Church: 338
Savonarola, Girolamo: 141, 567; plaque, 115–116; San Marco Museum, 173, 174, 177–179
Science museum: See Galileo Science Museum
Seasons: 7
Shopping: budgeting, 7; clothing sizes, 607; Florence, 334–336; hours, 10; Siena, 376; VAT refunds, 15–16; Volterra, 494. See also Leather; Markets
Siena: 355–414; at a glance, 362; eating, 407–413; helpful hints, 360–361; maps, 357, 366–367, 402–403; nightlife, 411; orientation, 356; planning tips, 356; shopping, 376; sights, 363–398; sleeping, 399–407; tourist information, 356–357; tours, 361, 363; transportation, 357–359, 413–414
Siena Archaeological Museum: 374
Siena City Hall: 364, 365, 393
Siena City Tower: 362, 364, 365, 368
Siena Civic Museum: 365, 393–398; general info, 362, 365, 393; map, 394
Siena Duomo: 371–372, 377–387; general info, 362, 372, 377–378; map, 380; self-guided tour, 379–387
Siena Duomo Museum: 372, 388–392; general info, 362, 372, 388
Siena Palio: 368–369, 399, 605
Siena Pinacoteca: 362, 369–371
Sienese Clay Hills: 538–541
Sightseeing: budgeting, 7; with children, 329–330; general tips, 16–18, 62–64; money-saving tips, 12, 63–64; at night, 337–338. See also specific sights and destinations
Signorelli, Luca: 499, 539, 547–550
Slander (Botticelli): 141
Sleep code: 19
Sleeping: 294–311; budgeting, 7; general information, 18–25; money-saving tips, 12, 20; reservations, 22–23; near the Accademia, 300–301; Cortona, 550–552; Crete Senese, 540–541; near the Duomo, 295–297; between the Duomo and train station, 304–305; east of the Duomo, 301–302; Lucca, 465–468; Montalcino, 534–535; Montepulciano, 523; Oltrarno, 306–307; Pisa, 447–449; near Ponte Vecchio, 303–304; San Gimignano, 485–487; Siena, 399–407; South of the Duomo, 302–303; Tuscany, 475–477; Volterra, 507–509. See also Agriturismo; Hostels
Sodoma, Il (Giovanni Antonio Bazz): 371, 539
Souvenirs, shopping for: 336
Straw Market: 82
Street markets: See Markets
Strozzi Palace: 84
Taxes: VAT refunds, 15–16
Taxis: Fiesole, 96; Florence, 58, 343, 345, 350–351; Montepulciano, 514; tipping, 15
Telephone numbers, useful: 580
Telephones: 572–580
Terontola: 554
Theft alerts: 9–10, 51, 590, 597–598
Time zones: 10
Tintoretto: 464
Titian (Tiziano Vecellio): 147–148, 275–277, 278
Tomba della Pellegrina (Chiusi): 557
Torre dei Barbadori: 247–248
Torre dei Belfredelli: 247–248
Torre del Mangia (Siena): 362, 364, 365, 368
Torre di Marsili: 253
Torre di Pisa: See Leaning Tower of Pisa
Torre Grossa (San Gimignano): 482, 485
Torre Guinigi (Lucca): 464
Toscanelli, Paolo: 249
Tour guides: 9; Cortona, 543–544; Florence, 61; Lucca, 457; Pisa, 420; San Gimignano, 479; Siena, 361, 363; tipping, 15; Volterra, 491
Tourist information: 571–572; Cortona, 542; Fiesole, 97; Florence, 50–51; Lucca, 453; Montalcino, 531; Montepulciano, 513; Pienza, 527; Pisa, 417; San Gimignano, 479; Siena, 356–357; Volterra, 490
Tours: Florence, 58–61; Lucca, 457; Montepulciano, 513; Pisa, 420; Rick Steves, 601; San Gimignano, 479; Siena, 361, 363; Volterra, 491
Train station, in Florence: See Santa Maria Novella Station
Train travel: 582–592; Cortona, 542–543, 553–554; Florence, 342–344; general tips, 590, 592; Lucca, 453, 470; map, 583; overnight, 9; Pisa, 417, 450; schedules, 582, 584, 591; Siena, 357–359, 413; tickets, 584–588; Tuscany, 472–473
Transportation: 581–599; budgeting, 6–7; with children, 330; Cortona, 542–543, 553–554; Fiesole, 96; Florence, 55–58, 342–351; Lucca, 453, 456, 470; map, 583; Montalcino, 531, 537–538; Montepulciano, 513–514, 525–526; Pienza, 527; Pisa, 417, 419, 450–451; San Gimignano, 479, 481, 489; Siena, 357–359, 413–414; Tuscany, 472–475; Volterra, 490, 511. See also Buses; Car travel; Train travel
Travel advisories: 580
Travel agencies: Florence, 55; Siena, 360–361
Travel insurance: 9
Travel smarts: 4–6
Trinity, The (Masaccio): 227–228
Trip costs: 6–7
Triptych of St. Peter Martyr (Fra Angelico): 168
Tuff (tufo): 496
Tuscany: 355–557; geology, 539; hill towns, 471–557; Lucca, 452–470; maps, 354, 473, 474–475; Pisa, 415–451; Siena, 355–414; sleeping, 475–478; transportation, 472–475. See also Florence; and specific destinations
Twilight (books and films): 495
Uccello, Paolo: 77, 135–136, 233
Uffizi Gallery: 84–85, 129–152; courtyard, 85, 116–117, 331, 339; general info, 66, 85, 129–132; guided tours, 59; maps, 131, 133, 136, 139, 143, 147, 151; reservations, 8, 64–65, 129–130; self-guided tour, 132–152
Under the Tuscan Sun (Mayes): 541, 546, 602
Vampire Volterra: 495
Vasari, Giorgio: 77, 200, 201, 204, 232–233, 275, 371, 430, 465, 549, 600
Vasari Corridor: 86
VAT refunds: 15–16
Vecchio Palace: See Palazzo Vecchio
Veiled Woman (Raphael): 274–275
Venus de’ Medici: 143–144
Venus Italica (Canova): 277–278
Venus of Urbino (Titian): 147–148
Vernaccia di San Gimignano: 42, 479
Veronese, Paolo: 464
Verrocchio, Andrea del: 124, 142, 158, 204
Via Banchi di Sopra (Siena): 368–369, 376
Via Banchi di Sotto (Siena): 368–369
Via de’ Calzaiuoli: 109–110, 337
Via di Gracciano nel Corso (Montepulciano): 513, 516–518
Via Fillungo (Lucca): 459–460
Via Matteotti (Volterra): 497–499
Via Nazionale (Cortona): 546
Via Porta all’Arco (Volterra): 494
Via Toscanella: 249–250
Villa Guinigi (Lucca): 465
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: 42, 512, 520–521
Visitor information: See Tourist information
Volta, Alessandro: 292
Volterra: 489–511; eating, 509–511; helpful hints, 490–491; map, 492–493; sights, 491–507; sleeping, 507–509; tourist information, 490; tours, 491; transportation, 490, 511
Volterra City Hall: 494–495
Volterra Duomo: 496–497
Volterra Pinacoteca: 499–500
Volto Santo (Lucca): 456, 462, 605
Walking tours, guided: Florence, 59–60; Lucca, 457; San Gimignano, 479; Siena, 363; Volterra, 491
Walking tours, self-guided: Cortona, 544–547; Florence: Oltrarno, 246–253; Renaissance, 100–118; Montepulciano, 514–520; Pisa, 420–423; San Gimignano, 481–484
Wedding and Funeral of the Virgin (Fra Angelico): 168
Wine (vin): 38–40, 42; Montalcino, 42, 530, 531, 535–537; Montepulciano, 42, 512, 513, 520–521, 522; San Gimignano, 479; Volterra, 505–506
Wine bars (enoteche): 33–34; Florence, 320, 322–324, 327, 339; Lucca, 468; Montalcino, 536; San Gimignano, 488; Siena, 411
Wine classes, in Siena: 361
Wolf, Gerhard: 247
Youth hostels: See Hostels
Zita, Saint: 463–464
Zuccari, Federico: 77