The Best of the Maine Coast
Humor columnist Dave Barry once suggested that Maine’s state motto should be changed to “Cold, but damp,” thereby emphasizing its two primary qualities. That’s cute, but it’s also sort of true. Spring here tends to last just a few days or weeks (in its place, Mainers refer to “mud season,” the period from, say, mid-March to June); November features bitter winds alternating with gray sheets of rain; and the long winters often bring a mix of blizzards and ice storms.
Ah, but then there’s summer. Summer on the coast of Maine brings osprey diving for fish off wooded points, fogs rolling in poetically from the Atlantic, and long, timeless days when the sun rises well before visitors do. (By 8am, it can already feel like noon.) Maine summers offer a serious dose of tranquility; a few days in the right spot can rejuvenate even the most jangled city nerves.
The trick is finding that right spot. Route 1 along the Maine coast is mostly an amalgam of convenience stores, tourist boutiques, and restaurants catering to bus tours. The main loop road, single beach, and most popular mountain peaks in Acadia National Park tend to get congested in summer. And arriving without a room reservation in high season? Simply a bad idea.
On the other hand, Maine’s remote position and size often work to your advantage. The state has an amazing 5,500 miles of coastline, plus 3,000 or so coastal islands (admittedly, some of these are nothing more than rocks). With a little homework, you can find that little cove, island, or fishing village that isn’t too discovered yet, book your room well in advance, and enjoy coastal Maine’s incredibly lovely scenery without sweating any of the last-minute details.
Getting to know the locals is fun, too. Many are fishermen (as opposed to the farmers who colonized the rest of New England) and other seafaring folk, or the descendants of such, and today’s coastal Mainers—even the transplanted ones—exhibit a wry, dry sense of humor and a surprising gregariousness. (There’s a Bait’s Motel in Searsport, complete with worm-hanging-off-its-hook motif, for instance, and a tiny street called Fitz Hugh Lane in Somesville.) And fishermen’s stories, of course, are the stuff of legend. Take the time to get to know some folks, and you’ll smile a lot more.
Basically, your main challenge when planning a vacation in coastal Maine boils down to this: Where to start? Here’s an entirely biased list of destinations—some places I enjoy returning to time and again. Places like these, I’m convinced, merit more than just a quick stop; instead, they’re worth a detour or an extended stay of a few days to a week.
The best authentic experiences
Spread a Towel on York’s Short Sands Beach (Southern Maine): Bring the family and embrace the giddy un-self-consciousness of summer boardwalk culture. Sunbathe while a kid tosses a Frisbee over you. Pump quarters into skee ball in the Fun-O-Rama arcade. Eat four different kinds of saltwater taffy in a day. See p. 60.
Do the Portland Beer Circuit (Portland): A taproom tour in the country’s beer-iest city is more than just a weekend of tasty hedonism—it’s a window into what the new Portland is all about: a championing of indie and artisan culture, a respect for the town’s working-class heritage, an embrace of Maine agriculture, a thoughtful repurposing of old and often dilapidated urban spaces. Plus a decidedly non-urban vibe that reminds you you’re in a town of just 67,000 people (with a brewery for every 3,700 of them). See p. 108.
Embed on Monhegan Island (Lower Midcoast): Don’t just pop off the ferry for a day. Get a simple, rustic room on Monhegan (there is no other kind) and spend a few days learning its quiet trails, schmoozing with the artists and the lobstermen, watching the ferries and the weather come and go, and falling into the rhythm of life on Maine’s most enchanted island. See p. 141.
Get Off the Pavement in Acadia (Mount Desert Island): Acadia National Park’s elaborate trail network is a 120-mile museum to both MDI’s natural history and its human one. It’s also the best way to avoid the crowds and soak up the beauty of these rounded seaside mountains. Lace up your hiking boots and pack a backpack. Leave your car at the trailhead in the morning, and don’t come back until sunset. (Bonus points for doing this on skis in the winter.) See p. 181.
Pitch a Tent at Cobscook Bay (Downeast Coast): Camping here, you’ll be centrally located to explore both Eastport and Lubec (the two loveliest and Downeast-iest of Downeast towns). Watching the 20-foot tides come and go outside your tent flaps is the best way to get attuned to the rhythm around which life revolves at the nation’s northeastern tip. See p. 244.
The Black Birch (Kittery; www.theblackbirch.com; 
207/703-2294 ): The rustic-adventurous gastropub that revitalized what is now one of New England’s hottest dining scenes, it’d make this list for the to-die-for poutine alone. See p. 53.
Eventide Oyster Co. (Portland; www.eventideoysterco.com; 207/774-8538): A hip, contemporary distillation of the sea-to-plate heritage that makes Maine dining special. And among the most nationally lauded restaurants in a town crowded with foodie delights. See p. 92.
Duckfat (Portland; www.duckfat.com; 207/774-8080): Not the fanciest menu on this list, but that’s part of what makes it great. Chef Rob Evans’ superb sandwiches, Belgian fries, and crème anglaise milkshakes are worth the long waits. See p. 94.
Five Islands Lobster Co. (Georgetown; www.fiveislandslobster.com; 207/371-2990): A classic Maine lobster shack, and you can’t beat the romance of Georgetown’s working harbor and the evergreen-speckled islands dotting the horizon. Or the freshness of the bugs, pulled out some of the state’s best lobstering grounds. See p. 123.
Primo (Rockland; www.primorestaurant.com; 207/596-0770): Melissa Kelly and Price Kushner create culinary magic on two floors of a century-old home at this storied Rockland bistro. Get out your credit card for fancy treatments of foie gras, scallops, duck, steak (and more) as well as outstanding desserts and a long, impressive wine list. See p. 151.
The best hotels
White Barn Inn (Kennebunk; www.whitebarninn.com; 207/967-2321): This venerable inn has been world-class longer than most people reading this book have been alive. Sumptuous but not overwrought, country but not folksy, one of the best dining rooms around, and service for miles. See p. 77.
The Press Hotel (Portland; www.presshotel.com; 207/808-8800): Rarely do luxurious, historical, and fun all come together in one property, but this downtown hotel in the former Portland Press Herald headquarters really nails it. With clever nods to the golden days of newsprint (and great art around every corner), this place just has so much style. See p. 88.
Lincolnville Motel (Lincolnville; www.lincolnvillemotel.com; 207/236-3195). A throwback to the midcentury golden days of Maine tourism—and to the values that road-tripping families could expect back then. Super reasonable rates for a self-consciously stylish vintage motor court. No other lodging in this book offers a vinyl turntable and a stack of LPs as a standard amenity. See p. 159.
Balance Rock Inn (Bar Harbor; www.balancerockinn.com; 800/753-0494 or 207/288-2610): The property’s pale blue outdoor swimming pool backs right up to the Atlantic, and the rooms are as elegant and comfortable as any in the state. You won’t feel so cared for by a hotel staff anywhere else on Mount Desert Island. See p. 209.
The best outdoor playgrounds
The Beaches of Southern Maine (Southern Maine): The flat, white-sand beaches of southernmost Maine are gorgeous and perfect for playing Frisbee, walking, tanning, kite flying, and photography. Just watch your tootsies: That water’s cold. See chapter 4.
Casco Bay’s Islands (Portland): Locals once called ’em the Calendar Islands for a reason: They claim there are 365 of these rocky islands dotting Casco Bay, in every shape and size. (I’d wager there are more than that, though.) Catch a mail boat from Portland harbor and see how many you can count. See p. 22.
Rocky Peninsulas (Lower Midcoast, Upper Midcoast, and Downeast): Everywhere you go—from the Cape Neddick area to just south of Portland, from Harpswell to Georgetown, from Blue Hill to Boothbay to Schoodic Point—you’ll find long fingerlings and headlands carved of sheer bedrock. Once these were mountaintops high above an ancient sea; now they comprise some of the East Coast’s most beautiful scenery. Try some back-road wandering to find the best ones. See chapters 6, 7, and 9.
The Camden Hills (Lower Midcoast): They’re not huge, yet this run of hills comes with a bonus you’ll only understand when you get to the top: eye-popping coastal vistas of boats, villages, and islands. In the winter, you can even toboggan-run from crest to valley. See chapter 6.
Acadia National Park (Mount Desert Island): New England’s only national park is also one of the most beautiful (and popular) in the U.S. Its rocky, surf-pounded coastline is the main attraction, but don’t overlook the quiet forests and open summits of low mountains that afford stunning coastal views. Rent a mountain bike or horse-drawn carriage to explore further. See chapter 8.
The Appalachian Trail and Mount Katahdin (North Woods): Well worth a detour inland, the nearly mile-high Mount Katahdin—Maine’s highest peak—has an ineffable spiritual quality, rising abruptly from a thick blanket of North Woods forest. It’s also the centerpiece of Baxter State Park, one of the last, best wildernesses remaining in the eastern U.S. The Appalachian Trail, which stretches 2,100 rugged miles from Georgia, winds uphill to the finish line here on Katahdin. The Trail’s stretches in Maine traverse some of the most magnificent scenery in New England. See p. 262.
York Village (Southern Maine): Maine’s oldest settlement has plenty of history and fine architecture; it’s also got a set of beaches and a coastal trail nearby. Plus people just seem friendly here. See p. 48.
Camden (Upper Midcoast): This seaside town has everything—a beautiful harbor; great Federal, Queen Anne, and Greek Revival architecture; and even its own tiny mountain range, affording great hikes with sweeping ocean views. With lots of elegant bed-and-breakfasts, it’s a perfect base for explorations farther afield. See p. 154.
Castine (Upper Midcoast): Soaring elm trees, a peaceful harborside setting, grand historic homes, and a selection of good inns make this a great spot to soak up some of Maine’s coastal ambience off the beaten path. See p. 170.
Stonington (Upper Midcoast): Maine’s heritage as a fishing town is never more on display than it is in Stonington, the biggest town on little Deer Isle. You get a fair number of transplants here, too, who came for the views and stayed to paint pictures, paddle kayaks, do yoga, or set out for the little-glimpsed Isle au Haut. See p. 174.
Northeast Harbor (Mount Desert Island): A single, sleepy main street anchors one of MDI’s best little villages. Northeast has a waterside setting, sure, but also a mix of seafaring locals and art-loving summer folks, giving it an aura of a place that’s still living life from a century ago. See p. 227.
Eastport (Downeast): Now this is truth in advertising: You can’t get any farther east in the U.S. than Eastport. You’d think this place would be a lonely outpost, but it’s actually a thriving little hub of artistic culture, historic architecture, brawny fishing exploits, and briny eats. See p. 246.
The best Places to See Fall Foliage
The Camden Hills (Upper Midcoast): The surrounding countryside is full of blazing color, offset by gray-shingled homes and sailboats. See chapter 7.
Acadia National Park (Mount Desert Island): This national park possesses some of the finest foliage in northern New England, all the more so because it’s set right beside the dramatic, rocky coastline. See chapter 8.
Blueberry Barrens (Downeast): One of Maine’s least appreciated scenic treasures. Downeast Maine’s vast wild blueberry fields turn a brilliant cranberry red each fall, setting the landscape ablaze with color. Wander the dirt roads northeast of Cherryfield, or just drive Route 1 between Harrington and Machias past an experimental farm atop (of course) Blueberry Hill. See chapter 9.
Hiking Trails on Monhegan: While the village of Monhegan is clustered around the harbor of the same-named island, the rest of the 700-acre rock is comprised of picturesque wild lands, with miles of trails crossing open meadows and tracing rocky bluffs. See p. 143.
From the Deck of a Windjammer: See Maine as many saw it for centuries—from the ocean, looking inland. Sailing ships depart from various harbors along the coast, particularly from Rockland and Camden. Spend between a night and a week exploring the dramatic shoreline. See p. 146.
Merchant’s Row via Kayak: The islands between Stonington and Isle au Haut, rimmed with pink granite and capped with the stark spires of spruce trees, are among the most spectacular on the entire East Coast. They’re inaccessible by motorboat, but wonderful to explore by sea kayak. Some outfitters even offer overnight camping trips on the islands. See p. 178.
Acadia’s Park Loop Road: Forming the heart of Acadia National Park, this is New England’s premier oceanside drive. Start along a ridge with views of Frenchman Bay and the Porcupine Islands, then dip down along the rocky shores to watch the surf crash against the dark rocks. Plan to do this 20-mile loop at least twice to get the most out of it. See p. 192.
From a Well-Located Rocking Chair: Views are never better than when you’re caught unaware—such as glancing up from an engrossing book on the front porch of an ocean-side inn and catching a great sunset or angle of light on the water. This book includes many hotels and inns on the water. A list of the best porch views in Maine could run for pages, but it would certainly include those gleaned from the Beachmere Inn in Ogunquit (p. 64), the Black Point Inn in Scarborough (p. 86), Grey Havens on Georgetown Island (p. 127), East Wind Inn in Tenant’s Harbor (p. 148), the Samoset Resort outside Rockport (p. 149), the Inn on the Harbor in Stonington (p. 175), and the Claremont in Southwest Harbor (p. 122).
The best Destinations for Families
York Beach (Southern Maine): This beach town is actually a set of three towns; head for Short Sands with the kids, where they can watch a taffy-pulling machine, play video games in an arcade, ogle seashells in a trinket shop, or scarf cotton candy at a small amusement park. The Long Sands section is ideal for tanning, Frisbee tossing, or kite flying; nearby is Nubble Light (a scenic lighthouse) and a kid-friendly ice-cream shop. See p. 48.
Old Orchard Beach (Southern Maine): This place has sort of a carnival atmosphere—there are french fries, hot dogs, and fried dough galore. Though it might be a bit much for stodgy adults who can’t embrace the pure camp, the kids will probably love it. See p. 110.
Freeport (Lower Midcoast). It’s almost impossible to knock Freeport as a family vacation spot. We’re talking about a town with loads of shopping, outdoor music in summer, about a half-dozen L.L. Bean stores (including nearly a whole floor focused on kids’ outdoor wear), and tons of quick eats and chain hotels. Plus lobsters. Plus a souvenir shop with a moose theme. Heck, there’s even a McDonald’s—tastefully designed, of course. About the only thing this place lacks is a go-kart track and an Elmo theme park. And that’s a good thing. See p. 113.
Monhegan Island (Lower Midcoast): The mail boat from Port Clyde out to Monhegan is intriguing, the inns are a rustic overnight adventure, and the smallish island’s scale is perfect for kids to explore, especially kids in the, say, 8-to-12-year-old range. See p. 141.
The best Places to Rediscover the Past
Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community (New Gloucester): The last of the active Shaker communities in the nation, this was the only one that voted to accept new converts rather than die out. The 1,900-acre farm about 45 minutes outside of Portland has a number of exceptional buildings, including some from the 18th century. Visitors can view examples of Shaker craftsmanship and buy herbs to bring home. See p. 111.
Mount Desert Island & Bar Harbor (Mount Desert Island): In the mid-1800s, America launched a love affair with nature and never looked back. See where it started, here amid surf-wracked rocks, where some of the nation’s most affluent families erected vacation “cottages” with bedrooms by the dozen. The area still offers lessons on how to design with nature as accomplice rather than adversary. See chapter 8.
Portsmouth (New Hampshire): This salty coastal city also happens to possess some of the most impressive historic homes in all New England. Start at Strawbery Banke, a 10-acre compound of 42 historic buildings, then visit some of the other grand homes in the surrounding neighborhoods. See p. 250.