INDEX
A
aïoli (butter of Provence), 19, 53
albumin
almond paste
almonds
Almond Floating Islands, 483– 485, 484, 485
Almond Shells, 651–655, 652, 653, 654, 655
Cognac-Almond Truffles, 641– 643, 642, 643
Puff Paste Almond Cake, 610, 610–612, 611, 612
Trout with Almonds, 230, 230–231, 231
anchovies
Anchovy Sticks and Fish, 606, 606–609, 607, 609
in crisscross pattern on pizza, 457, 457
anglaise, crème. See crème anglaise
apples
Apple Charlotte, 625, 625–627, 626, 627
apple swans, 693, 693–695, 694, 695
Apple Tart, 565, 565–568, 566, 567, 568
Tarte Tatin, 568–572, 569, 570, 571, 572
Apricot Savarin, Bourbon, 526, 526–527, 527
artichokes
bottoms filled with vegetable salad, 208, 208
folding artichoke napkins, 722, 722–724, 723, 724
hollowing out and stuffing, 90, 90–92, 91, 92
lemon to prevent discoloration of, 86, 86, 88, 88, 89
parsley as garnish for, 87, 87
peeling and trimming, 88, 88–89, 89
stock for cooking artichoke hearts, 89
arranging and garnishing, 81, 81
breaking and bundling, 79, 79–80, 80
aspic
Poached Salmon Glazed with Aspic, 205, 205–209, 206, 207, 208, 209
B
babas
Rum Babas with Peaches, 523, 523–525, 524, 525
bain-marie (tepid water), 154, 154
Baked Sole with Mushrooms and Parsley, 214, 214–217, 215, 216, 217
baking bread, 442. See also bread
bardes. See lard leaves
bark with leaves, chocolate, 508, 512, 512–514, 513, 514
Basic Sponge Cake, 504, 504–506, 505, 506
baskets, orange, 696, 696–697, 697
bass, black, boning out and filleting gravlax and, 239, 239–241, 240, 241
beans
Braised Beef Tongue with Lentils, 375, 375–376, 376
shelling fava beans, 101, 101– 102, 102
béchamel sauce. See White Sauce with Beurre Manié
beef. See also steak; veal
Beef Rib Roast, 347, 347–348, 348
Braised Beef Tongue with Lentils, 375, 375–376, 376
carving rib roast, 436, 436–437, 437
cuts of, 162, 354, 354–355, 355
Filet of Beef with Truffle Sauce, 34
natural casings from, 408, 408
peeling and slicing calves liver, 381, 381
Pepper Steak, 351, 351–352, 352
preparing beef tongue, 375, 375–376, 376
preparing marrow, 379–380, 380
hanging tenderloin, 356, 356–357, 357
Steak “Marchand de Vin” with Marrow, 34
Stuffed Flank Steak, 357–361, 358, 359, 360, 361
trimming fillet or tenderloin, 352, 352–353, 353
trimming shell steak, 349, 349–350, 350
Tripe with Wine and Calvados, 377, 377–379, 378, 379
beef fillet
chain of fillet, 352, 352–353, 353
Filet of Beef with Truffle Sauce, 34
trimming fillet or tenderloin, 352, 352–353, 353
berries
Fresh Raspberry Linzer Torte, 529, 529–532, 530, 531, 532
Glazed Strawberries, 538, 538–539, 539
Poached Peaches with Raspberry
Raspberry Sauce, 553–554, 554, 581, 583, 583–584, 584
Raspberry Soufflé, 631–632, 632
Strawberry Sherbet, 553, 553– 554, 554
beurre blanc. See White Butter Sauce
Beurre Maître D’Hôtel (Lemon-Parsley Butter), 52, 52
beurre manié. See White Sauce with Beurre Manié
black bass, boning out and filleting gravlax and, 239, 239–
Black Pudding, 403, 403–406, 404, 405, 406
black truffles, 123–125, 124, 125
blood. See Black Pudding
boning fish
boning and skinning salmon, 202, 202–203, 203, 206, 206
boning out and filleting black bass and gravlax, 239, 239– 241, 240, 241
cleaning and boning trout, 228, 228–229, 229
scissors for cleaning and boning fish, 211, 211, 228, 228, 229,
boning meat
boning, stuffing, tying, and cooking saddle of lamb, 307, 307–308, 308
boning out leg of veal, 341, 341–345, 342, 343, 344, 345
boning poultry
Boned Stuffed Squab, 291–296, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296
boning and cutting up duck,
299, 299–301, 300, 301
boning chicken in one piece, 266, 266–269, 267, 268, 269
boning out and stuffing chicken breasts, 280, 280–283, 281,
282, 283
boning out quail, 297, 297–298, 298
boudin. See Black Pudding
bourbon
Bourbon Apricot Savarin, 526, 526–527, 527
brains
cooking and serving suggestions
braising
Braised Lettuce, 105, 105–106,
preparing celery for, 92–93, 93
decorations for bread;
making cream puff dough cases,
Melba Toast, 714, 714–715, 715
Milk Bread, 449, 449–451, 450, 451
Provence-Style Pizza, 456, 456–
round, crisscross cut, 453, 453
Breaded Sweetbreads with Tarragon Sauce, 386, 386–388, 387, 388
Breaded Veal Scaloppine, 333, 333–334, 334
breasts
boning out and stuffing chicken breasts, 280, 280–283, 281,
Brie in Brioche Dough, 465, 465–466, 466
Brill, Stuffed, 222, 222–225, 223, 224, 225
brine, liquid (salt and water)
Stuffed Pig’s Feet in, 421–423,
brioche
broiled dishes
Broiled Lobster, 195, 195–197,
preparing chicken for broiling,
Classic Brown Stock, 29, 29–31,
butter
shortening compared to, 558, 591
White Sauce with Beurre Manié,
butter of Provence. See aïoli
buttercream
butterflies, carrot, 690–691, 691
C
Cage, Caramel, 581, 584, 584–585, 585
cake. See also icing
Cake Glazed with Fondant, 660,
Leaves, 508, 508–514, 509, 510,
Proust’s Small Coffee Cakes, 528, 528
Rolled Cake, 506, 506–507, 507
St. Valentine Custard Cake, 540,
Straw Potato Cake, 132–133, 133
Vanilla-Bourbon Layer Cake, 515,
cake pans, lining
Calvados, Tripe with Wine and, 377, 377–379, 378, 379
canapés, 716, 716–719, 717, 718, 719
Candied Lime and Grapefruit Peels, 663, 663–664, 664
Candied Orange Rind, 698, 698–699, 699
caramel
Butter Caramel, 483–485, 484, 485
Caramel Glaze, 568, 569, 572, 572
Caramel Lime Soufflé with Lime
Pears in Caramel on Puff Paste,
carnations (almond paste), 658, 658–659, 659
carolines (puff paste cookies), 612–613, 613
carrots
carrot butterflies, 690–691, 691
for vegetable flowers, 685, 685–
687, 686, 687, 689, 689–690, 690
carving gravlax, 426, 426–427, 427
carving rib roast, 436, 436–437, 437
carving fruit
apple swans, 693, 693–695, 694, 695
lemons, 700, 700–702, 701, 702
orange baskets, 696, 696–697, 697
watermelon, 703, 703–707, 704,
carving vegetables. See also vegetable flowers
carrot butterflies, 690–691, 691
mushroom fish, 681, 681–682, 682
olive rabbits, 692, 692–693, 693
casings, sausage
cast iron skillet and kettle, 6
caviar
celeriac or celery root, 94, 94
celery
preparing for braising, 92–93, 93
ceramic sharpener, 7, 10, 10–11, 11
chain of fillet
Chantilly Filling, 651, 655, 655
charcuterie and offal, 370–423.
See also sausages
brains, 388, 388–390, 389, 390
definition of charcuterie, 390
making chicken cracklings, 374,
peeling and slicing calves liver,
Pistachio Sausage in Brioche with
Pork Spread Rillettes, 390–392,
preparing fresh foie gras, 396,
preparing kidneys, 382, 382–385,
preparing marrow, 379–380, 380
Stuffed Pig’s Feet, 421–423, 422, 423
Stuffed Veal Kidneys, 383, 383–
Charcutière Sauce, 362, 364, 364–365, 365
charlotte
Apple Charlotte, 625, 625–627,
Chocolate Charlotte, 628, 628– 630, 629, 630
charlotte mold, 455, 455, 626,
chateaubriand steak, 354, 354–355, 355
cheese
Puff Paste Cheese Straws, 604,
cheesecloth, chicken tied in, 271, 271–273, 272, 273
Cherries in Wine, Spicy, Vanilla Ice Cream in Netty Cups with, 555–557, 556, 557
chestnuts
buying, cooking, and uses for,
peeling and glazing chestnuts,
chicken
boning chicken in one piece, 266,
boning out and stuffing chicken
chicken cracklings, 374, 374, 445,
Chicken Pie, 286, 286–287, 287
Chicken Sausage, 270, 270–273,
Chicken Stuffed under the Skin,
chicken tied in cheesecloth, 271,
eviscerating, 252, 252–255, 253,
preparing chicken for stews, bone
preparing chicken for stews, off
trussing, 256, 256–258, 257, 258
tying (half-hitch technique), 259,
chinois (strainer), 33, 33, 39, 39,
chocolate. See also ganache; truffles (chocolate)
chocolate bark with leaves, 508,
Chocolate Charlotte, 628, 628–
chocolate cigarettes, 549, 549–
chocolate goblets, 644, 644–646,
Chocolate Icing, 519, 520, 520–
chocolate leaves, 639, 639–640, 640
Chocolate Truffettes, 641–643,
decorations, 549, 549–550, 550
diluting ganache with water for
ganache soufflé, 518, 519, 519–
Pain au Chocolate, 458, 458–461,
chopping
and crushing garlic, 19, 19–20, 20
holding knife to chop vegetables,
chops, lamb
Chops, Stuffed Pork, with Sour Sauce, 362, 362–365, 363,
choux. See cream puffs
Christmas Yule Log with Mint Leaves, 508, 508–514, 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 514
cigarettes, chocolate, 549, 549–550, 550
ciselés (little slits, sole fillet), 212, 212
citrus fruit. See also lemons; limes; oranges
orange peel julienne, 699, 699
stripper tool for citrus peels,
clams
cleaning soft-shell clams, 164,
preparing razor clams, 165, 165
Soft-Shell Clams, 164, 164–165, 165
clarification
Classic Brown Stock, 29, 29–31, 30, 31
Classic Omelet Fines Herbes, 147, 147–149, 148, 149, 152, 152
Classic Puff Paste Detrempe, 590, 591, 591–593, 592, 593
cloves, stuck in onions, 37, 37
Coffee Cakes, Proust’s Small, 528, 528
Coffee-Rum Truffles, 641–643, 642, 643
Cognac-Almond Truffles, 641–643, 642, 643
Cold Parsleyed Ham, 414–416, 415, 416
cold water
to avoid potato discoloration, 128
stop cooking asparagus with, 80, 80
containers. See receptacles
cookies
corn
cornets
Dessert Cornets, 710, 710–711, 711
Ham Cornets, 708, 708–709, 709
paper cone, 72, 72–74, 73, 74,
cornucopia molds, 708, 708–709, 709
Country Bread, 442–448, 443, 444, 445, 446, 447, 448
Country Pâté with Pecans and Hot Honey Mustard, 393, 393–395, 394, 395
Country-Style Fines Herbes Omelet, 149, 149–150, 150, 152, 152
crabs
Hard-Shell Crab with Wine, 174,
killing and cleaning, 175, 175–
preparing soft-shell crabs, 176,
cracklings, chicken, 374, 374, 445, 445
Crayfish in Broth, 186–187, 187
Crayfish Tails au Gratin, 188,
cream. See also buttercream; custard cream; pastry cream
Chocolate Pastry Cream Filling,
Eggs “Cocotte” with Cream, 153,
English Custard Cream, 477, 477
Praline Cream, 479, 479–480, 480
cream puff dough (pâte à choux)
technique for, 578, 578–579, 579
cream puffs (choux)
Cream Puff Ring, 586, 586–589,
making cream puff dough cases,
techniques for, 580, 580–581, 581
Mussels with Cream Sauce, 171, 171
crème anglaise
English Custard Cream, 477, 477
crème pâtissière
Praline Cream, 479, 479–480, 480
crêpes
Crêpes Suzettes, 545, 545–548,
croissants
Croissants and Pain au Chocolate,
shaping, 458, 460, 460–461, 461
croutons
round, square, and heart-shaped
croutons, 712, 712–714, 713, 714
curing fish
curing meat. See also brine, liquid
Currant-Glazed Strawberries, 538, 538
custard cream
English Custard Cream, 477, 477
technique for, 480–482, 481, 482
custards
English Custard Cream, 477, 477
St. Valentine Custard Cake, 540,
D
Dandelion Salad, 114, 114–115, 115
decorations. See flowers; presentation; vegetable flowers
decorations for bread, 442, 447, 447, 448, 448
anchovies in crisscross pattern
crisscross effect on bread, 448, 448
wheat stalks on bread, 447, 447
decorations for pastry and dessert
chocolate cigarettes, 549, 549–
550, 550
chocolate leaves, 639, 639–640, 640
Royal Icing for, 518, 519, 521,
for St. Valentine Custard Cake,
for vacherin (meringue shells),
for Vanilla-Bourbon Layer Cake,
Deep Fried Potatoes, 131, 131–132, 132
Deep-Fried Eggs, 156, 156–157, 157
demi-glace (half-glaze)
definition and uses of, 27, 28
technique for, 29, 29–31, 30, 31
desserts. See iced desserts; pastry and dessert; specific desserts
détrempe (puff paste dough), 590
diablotins (twisted cheese straws), 604
Dill, Potato-, Gnocchi, 472, 472–473, 473
dough (bread)
épi “head of wheat” shape, 451, 451
kneading, 444, 444, 450, 450, 558
making cream puff dough cases,
proof box for, 446, 446, 448, 448
risen, 445, 445, 450, 450, 452, 452
rolling and shaping baguettes,
rolling and shaping oval loaf, 446, 446
dough (pastry and dessert). See also détrempe; pie dough, sweet (pâte sucrée); pie dough (pâte brisée); puff paste; vol-au-vents
fraisage technique, 530, 562, 562
Netty Cup Dough, 555, 557, 557
dressing
duck
preparing fresh foie gras, 396,
Dumplings, 366, 368, 368–369, 369
Duxelle of Mushrooms, 22, 22–23, 23
E
éclair
techniques for, 580, 580–581, 581
eel
eggs, 142–157. See also hollandaise sauce; meringue; omelets; soufflés
albumin in egg whites, 44, 144
checking saltiness of brine by
Classic Omelet Fines Herbes, 147,
coating pie shell with egg wash,
Country-Style Fines Herbes Omelet, 149, 149–150, 150, 152, 152
Deep-Fried Eggs, 156, 156–157, 157
Eggs “Cocotte” with Cream, 153,
Flat Omelet, Farmer-Style, 151,
hard-cooked egg for vegetable flowers, 680, 680
hard-cooked for poached salmon decoration, 207, 207, 208, 208
poaching, 145, 145–147, 146, 147
separating, 144, 144–145, 145, 631
yolk, for repairing broken-down
electric compared to gas stoves and ovens, 7
emulsion
endives
English Custard Cream, 477, 477
English Trifle, 532–534, 533, 534
épi “head of wheat” shape, 451, 451
equipment, 6–7. See also specific equipment