index

a  |  b  |  c  |  d  |  e
f  |  g  |  h  |  i  |  j
k  |  l  |  m  |  n  |  o
p  |  q  |  r  |  s  |  t
v  |  w  |  z

a

Aïoli, 363

BLTs, 137–38

Alsatian choucroute garni, 126–27

Anchovies, 353

Caesar salad dressing, 355–56

green goddess salad dressing, 352–53

linguine puttanesca, 255

Appetizers:

beef, chilled red-cooked, 65–67

chicken, chilled white-cooked, 150–52

chicken liver, chopped, 192–93

crab cakes, deviled, 245–46

crab cakes with Asian flavors, 246–47

eggplant caponata, 318–19

see also Dips; First courses

Apple oat crisp, 418–19

Applesauce, spiced, 303

Asian ingredients:

eggplant, Chinese and Japanese, 121

fish sauce, 241

ginger, fresh, 227

kaffir lime leaves, 15

lemongrass, 236

panko, 180

sesame oil, 342

shrimp, dried, 286

see also Chinese ingredients

Asian-style dishes:

crab cakes, 246–47

pork saté with spicy peanut sauce, 116–18

spinach salad, cooked, with soy and sesame, 341–42

see also Chinese-style dishes; Thai-style dishes

Avocado(s):

ripening, 36

soup, chilled, 37

b

Baba ghanouj, 320–21

Bacon:

aïoli BLTs, 137–38

cooking, 138

Balsamic vinegar:

beets with, 306–7

marinated tomatoes with basil and, 344

Barbecued ribs, oven-roasted, 110–11

Barley-mushroom soup, 26–27

Basil:

marinated tomatoes with balsamic vinegar and, 344

roast chicken stuffed with, 146–47

Bay leaves, 21

Bean(s):

baked, Sabrina’s, 304–5

black, soup, 22–23

black, stew with pig parts, 108–9

green, cooking, 305

red, venison chili with, 77–79

see also Black bean(s) (Chinese fermented); Chickpeas; Lentil

Bean sprouts, stir-fried rice noodles with scallions and, 282–83

Béchamel sauce, 311–12

Beef, 45–77

borscht, hot, for Aunt Gertie, 4–5

brisket, braised, with carrots, Mom’s, 55–56

burgers, David’s, 72–73

cottage pie, 74–75

crispy orange, 48–51

fillets with star anise, 52–54

flank steak, lime-marinated, 47

hot and sour soup, 6–8

meatballs, Italian, 69–70

meat loaf, Italian style, 70–72

pot-au-feu, 63–64

red-cooked, chilled, 65–67

roast, dinner, 45–46

roast, hash, 68–69

short ribs braised in beer, 58–59

sloppy Joes, 76–77

stew with red wine and vegetables, 60–62

tripe soup with lemon, Greek-style, 12–13

Beefed-up veal stock, 38–39

Beer, beef short ribs braised in, 58–59

Beets:

with balsamic vinegar, 306–7

beef borscht, hot, for Aunt Gertie, 4–5

Beurre manié, 62

Beverages:

mint juleps, Chanterelle style, 397

white wine spritzers, 396

Biscuits:

blackberry cobbler, 420–21

cornmeal-onion, 380–81

herbed, 382–83

Bistro-style dishes:

brisket, braised, with carrots, Mom’s, 55–56

chicken with tomato and tarragon, 166–67

Black bean:

soup, 22–23

stew with pig parts, 108–9

Black bean(s) (Chinese fermented):

Chinese eggplant with pork and, 120–21

sauce, braised mini ribs with, 114–15

sauce, clams in, 250–51

sauce, shrimp with, 240–41

Blackberry cobbler, 420–21

Black mushrooms, chicken with Chinese sausage and, 160–61

Black vinegar, Chinese, 49

BLTs, aïoli, 137–38

Blue cheese:

chicken cordon bleu cheese, 176–77

dressing, 357

Bok choy, in Chinese-style meatballs for a crowd, 128–30

Borscht, hot beef, for Aunt Gertie, 4–5

Bourbon:

and butternut squash soup, 34–35

mint juleps, Chanterelle style, 397

Wild Turkey glazed ribs, 113–14

Braising, 57

Bread(s), 376–85, 400–405

buttermilk corn muffins with orange, 377–78

challah, pudding, 424–26

challah French toast, 384–85

chapati, 404–5

cornbread, 381–82

cornmeal-onion biscuits, 380–81

croutons, crisp, 356

garlic, 402

herb and garlic focaccia, 400–401

herbed biscuits, 382–83

Parmesan, 403

pizza, eggplant, 297–99

scones, breakfast, Chanterelle, 378–79

stuffing, Sara’s, 196–97

Bread crumbs:

making, 279

panko, 180

Breakfasts, 27

see also Brunch fare

Brine, pickling, 215

Brisket, braised, with carrots, Mom’s, 55–56

Broccoli rabe, in spaghetti with potatoes and greens, 260–61

Broccoli with oyster sauce, 307–8

Broths:

lamb, 92–93

for red-cooking, 67

Brownies, our favorite, 419–20

Brunch fare, 375–405

buttermilk pancakes, half-inch-high, 392–93

challah French toast, 384–85

ham and cheese crêpes with tarragon cream sauce, 386–89

herbed crêpes, 389

oatmeal pancakes, 393–94

polenta with spicy tomato sauce and poached eggs, 398–99

shirred eggs with Smithfield ham and tarragon, 395–96

waffles, breakfast, Chanterelle’s, 390–91

see also Bread(s)

Buffalo wings, Manhattan, 191–92

Burgers:

David’s, 72–73

fancier, 73

Butter:

beurre manié, 62

clarifying, 391

sauces, separated, 217

seasoned, in fancier burgers, 73

image

Buttermilk:

corn muffins with orange, 377–78

pancakes, half-inch-high, 392–93

Butternut squash and bourbon soup, 34–35

c

Cabbage:

beef borscht, hot, for Aunt Gertie, 4–5

cider vinegar slaw, 310

meatballs for a crowd, Chinese-style, 128–30

red, braised, 309

stuffed, Gaby’s Hungarian-style, 122–24

Thai rice noodles (pad thai), 284–86

Caesar salad dressing, 355–56

Cakes (savory):

cod, crispy, 238–39

crab, deviled, 245–46

crab, with Asian flavors, 246–47

noodle, flipping, 288

Cakes (sweet):

cream cheese pound, 412–13

fallen chocolate soufflé, 413–14

spiced-up honey, 415–17

Capers, 353, 367

linguine puttanesca, 255

Caponata, eggplant, 318–19

Carrots:

cider vinegar slaw, 310

ginger pickled vegetables, 343

Cashews, chicken with, 182–83

Cauliflower:

ginger pickled vegetables, 343

gratin, 310–12

sautéed penne with chickpeas and, 262–63

Challah:

bread pudding, 424–26

French toast, 384–85

Chapati, 404–5

Cheese(s):

blue, dressing, 357

blue, in chicken cordon bleu cheese, 176–77

cauliflower gratin, 310–12

cream, pound cake, 412–13

and ham crêpes with tarragon cream sauce, 386–89

lasagne for a crowd, 268–70

ricotta, stuffed shells with prosciutto and, 280–81

tortellini with cream, peas, and ham, 276

tortellini with sun-dried tomato cream, 274–75

two, macaroni and, 265–66

see also Parmesan

Chicken, 141–93

with black mushrooms and Chinese sausage, 160–61

breasts stuffed with curried couscous, 178–79

cacciatore, 175–76

with cashews, 182–83

cordon bleu cheese, 176–77

and dumplings, Melicia’s, 164–66

fat, rendering, 143

with forty cloves of garlic, 144–45

fried, David’s famous, 157–58

gumbo, 184–85

innards, 147

and lamb couscous, 92–95

liver, chopped, 192–93

McWaltucks, 180–81

with olives and preserved lemons, 172–74

paprikás, 162–63

pot-au-feu, 63–64

potpie and I don’t care, 154–56

red-cooked, chilled, 148–49

and rice, Dominican, 169–71

roast, stuffed with basil, 146–47

roast, with root vegetables and cider, 142–43

salad, curried, 187

for salads, 186

salad with tarragon, 188

soup with fresh herbs, 9–12

stock, 39–40

with tomato and tarragon, bistro-style, 166–67 à la trip to Puerto Rico, 168–69

white-cooked, chilled, 150–52

whole, cutting up, 159

wings, honeyed-hoisin grilled, 189–90

wings, Manhattan Buffalo, 191–92

Chickpeas:

curried, three-can, 315–16

hummus, herbed summer, 317–18

sautéed penne with cauliflower and, 262–63

Children, in restaurants, 416

Chili:

seasoning, 79

venison, with red beans, 77–79

Chinese ingredients:

black vinegar, 49

five-spice powder, 54

hoisin sauce, 190

oyster sauce, 308

sausages, 161

star anise, 54

wood ears and lily buds, 8

Chinese-style dishes:

beef, chilled red-cooked, 65–67

beef, crispy orange, 48–51

beef fillets with star anise, 52–54

broccoli with oyster sauce, 307–8

broth for red-cooking, 67

chicken, chilled red-cooked, 148–49

chicken, chilled white-cooked, 150–51

chicken wings, honeyed-hoisin grilled, 189–90

chicken with cashews, 182–83

clams in black bean sauce, 250–51

duck, braised, with shiitakes, 200–201

eggplant, Chinese, with black beans and pork, 120–21

fish, crispy, with spicy sweet-and-sour sauce, 228–29

fish fillets, sesame-crusted, with garlic-ginger sauce, 230–31

hot and sour soup, 6–8

meatballs for a crowd, 128–30

noodles, two-sides-brown, with mushrooms, 287–89

rice noodles, Singapore-style, 289–91

shrimp fried rice, highly adaptable, 294–95

shrimp with black bean sauce, 240–41

vegetable lo mein, 292–93

Chocolate:

brownies, our favorite, 419–20

chip cookies, oaty, 430–31

soufflé cake, fallen, 413–14

Choucroute garni, Alsatian, 126–27

Chowder, clam, New England, 16–17

Cider, roast chicken with root vegetables and, 142–43

Cider vinegar slaw, 310

Cilantro, in spicy green dipping sauce, 151–52

Citrus peel, drying, 51

Clam(s):

in black bean sauce, 250–51

chowder, New England, 16–17

fish stew, Provençal, 232–33

sauce, linguine with, 257–59

Clarifying butter, 391

Cobbler, blackberry, 420–21

Coconut rice, 335

Cod:

cakes, crispy, 238–39

salt, 239

Composed salads, 351

Condiments:

citrus peel, drying, 51

lemons, preserved, 174

maple syrup, spiced, 385

vanilla sugar, 379

Confit of duck, 201–4

Conversion table, 434

Cookies:

oatmeal, stamp-of-approval, 432–33

oaty chocolate chip, 430–31

peanut lovers’, 429–30

refrigerating or freezing dough for, 431

tuiles, 427–28

Corn:

creamed, summertime, 313

double-cutting, 312

muffins, buttermilk, with orange, 377–78

Cornbread, 381–82

skillet, 381

Corn dogs, 139

Cornish hens, 153

Provençal, 152–53

Cornmeal-onion biscuits, 380–81

Cottage pie, 74–75

Court bouillon, lemongrass, 236–37

Couscous, 95

curried, chicken breasts stuffed with, 178–79

lamb and chicken, 92–95

steaming, 94–95

Crab(meat):

cakes, deviled, 245–46

cakes with Asian flavors, 246–47

seafood salad, Thai, 235–37

image

Crabs, soft-shell:

cleaning, 242

sautéed, with sorrel butter, 243–44

Cranberry soup, zesty, 409–10

Cream cheese pound cake, 412–13

Creamed:

corn, summertime, 313

spinach, 340–41

Crème anglaise, 425–26

Crêpes:

ham and cheese, with tarragon cream sauce, 386–89

herbed, 389

tips for, 387–88

Crisp, apple oat, 418–19

Croquettes, fresh salmon, 218–19

Croutons, crisp, making, 356

Cucumber salad with red onion and Chinese sausage, 314–15

Curry(ied):

chicken salad, 187

chickpeas, three-can, 315–16

couscous, chicken breasts stuffed with, 178–79

duck, Thai, 198–99

mayonnaise, 361

rice, 336

rice noodles, Singapore-style, 289–91

d

Daikon radish, in ginger pickled vegetables, 343

Degreasing stock, 40

Desserts, 407–33

apple oat crisp, 418–19

blackberry cobbler, 420–21

brownies, our favorite, 419–20

challah bread pudding, 424–26

cranberry soup, zesty, 409–10

cream cheese pound cake, 412–13

crème anglaise, 425–26

dried fruits in spiced red wine, 408–9

fallen chocolate soufflé cake, 413–14

ginger shortcakes, summertime, 422–23

litchi sorbet, 411

spiced-up honey cake, 415–17

see also Cookies

Deviled crab cakes, 245–46

Dipping sauces:

spicy green, 151–52

tamarind, 372–73

Dips, 348, 365

aïoli, 363

baba ghanouj, 320–21

green goddess dressing, 352–53

green sauce, 364–65

honey mustard, 371

horseradish sauce, 369–70

hummus, herbed summer, 317–18

Dominican chicken and rice, 169–71

Dressing a salad, 354

Dressings, 347–62

blue cheese, 357

Caesar salad, 355–56

green goddess, 352–53

Italian, creamy, 358

salad, David’s, 349

vinaigrette, ultra mustardy, 350

see also Mayonnaise

Dried fruits in spiced red wine, 408–9

Duck:

braised, with shiitakes, 200–201

confit of, 201–4

confit of, in black bean stew with pig parts, 108–9

curry, Thai, 198–99

Dumplings, chicken and, Melicia’s, 164–66

e

Eggplant:

baba ghanouj, 320–21

caponata, 318–19

Chinese, with black beans and pork, 120–21

Chinese and Japanese, 121

Parmesan, 278–79

pizza, 297–99

Eggs:

challah French toast, 384–85

poached, polenta with spicy tomato sauce and, 398–99

safety concerns and, 359

shirred, with Smithfield ham and tarragon, 395–96

Escarole, in spaghetti with potatoes and greens, 260–61

f

Fallen chocolate soufflé cake, 413–14

Fennel salad, 321–22

First courses:

avocado soup, chilled, 37

butternut squash and bourbon soup, 34–35

composed salads as, 351

fennel salad, 320–21

lentil salad, warm, 322–23

salmon, gingered pickled, with wasabi sauce, 214–15

see also Appetizers

Fish:

’n’ chips, 234

cod cakes, crispy, 238–39

crispy, with spicy sweet-and-sour sauce, 228–29

fillets, sesame-crusted, with garlic-ginger sauce, 230–31

with ginger-scallion sauce, 225–27

lotte with leeks, 222–23

monkfish with roast shallots and garlic, 224–25

stew, Provençal, 232–33

stock, 41

testing for doneness, 213

tuna with two marinades, 220–21

see also Clam(s); Salmon; Seafood; Shrimp

Fish sauce, Asian, 241

Five-spice powder, 54

Flank steak, lime-marinated, 47

Focaccia, herb and garlic, 400–401

Food mills, 31

Frankfurters, in corn dogs, 139

French dishes:

aïoli, 363

brisket, braised, with carrots, Mom’s, 55–56

chicken with tomato and tarragon, bistro-style, 166–67

choucroute garni, Alsatian, 126–27

Cornish hens, Provençal, 152–53

crème anglaise, 425–26

fish stew, Provençal, 232–33

onion soup, 35–36

pork chops, sautéed, with sauce charcutière, 103–4

pot-au-feu, 63–64

rémoulade, 366

tuiles, 427–28

French toast, challah, 384–85

Fried rice, shrimp, highly adaptable, 294–95

Fries, our favorite, 327–29

Fritters, Vidalia onion, 326–27

g

Garlic:

aïoli, 363

bread, 402

chicken with forty cloves of, 144–45

ginger sauce, sesame-crusted fish fillets with, 230–31

and herb focaccia, 400–401

lentil soup with garlic vinaigrette, 24–25

monkfish with roast shallots and, 224–25

peeling forty cloves of, 145

sausage, rustic homemade, 132–34

vinaigrette, 25

Ginger(ed), 227

garlic sauce, sesame-crusted fish fillets with, 230–31

pickled salmon with wasabi sauce, 214–15

pickled vegetables, 343

scallion sauce, fish with, 225–27

shortcakes, summertime, 422–23

wasabi marinade, 221

Goulash, pork, Szeged style, 106–7

Gratins:

cauliflower, 310–12

potato, 329

Greek-style tripe soup with lemon, 12–13

Green beans, cooking, 305

Green goddess dressing, 352–53

Greens, spaghetti with potatoes and, 260–61

Green sauce, 364–65

Grilled fare:

beef fillets with star anise, 52–54

chicken wings, honeyed-hoisin, 189–90

flank steak, lime-marinated, 47

lamb, butterflied leg of, 87–88

quail with soba salad and scallions, 204–5

tuna with two marinades, 220–21

Gumbo, chicken, 184–85

h

Ham:

black bean stew with pig parts, 108–9

and cheese crêpes with tarragon cream sauce, 386–89

cheese tortellini with cream, peas and,

image

chicken cordon bleu cheese, 176–77

choucroute garni, Alsatian, 126–27

pea soup with, 20–21

roast, with honey-mustard glaze, 102–3

Smithfield, shirred eggs with tarragon and, 395–96

stock, 20–21

Harissa, doctored, 368–69

Hash, roast beef, 68–69

Herb(ed)(s):

biscuits, 382–83

crêpes, 389

dried, maximizing, 71

and garlic focaccia, 400–401

hummus, summer, 317–18

pinwheel pork loin, 100–101

ravioli with Parmesan, butter and, 277

see also specific herbs

Hoisin sauce, 190

honeyed grilled chicken wings, 189–90

Honey(ed):

cake, spiced-up, 415–17

hoisin grilled chicken wings, 189–90

mustard dip, 371

soy marinade, 221

Horseradish:

fresh homemade, 370

sauce, 369–70

Hot and sour soup, 6–8

Hot dog onions, 324

Hummus, herbed summer, 317–18

Hungarian-style dishes:

chicken paprikás, 162–63

pork goulash, Szeged style, 106–7

stuffed cabbage, Gaby’s, 122–24

i

Ice cream, 410

Indian flatbread (chapati), 404–5

Ingredients:

recipes with long list of, 283

sticky, measuring, 111

see also Asian ingredients; Chinese ingredients

Italian dishes:

chicken cacciatore, 175–76

eggplant caponata, 318–19

eggplant Parmesan, 278–79

eggplant pizza, 297–99

herb and garlic focaccia, 400–401

meatballs, 69–70

meat loaf, 70–72

risotto with porcini, 295–97

tripe, braised, alla Fiorentina, 82–83

see also Pasta

Italian dressing, creamy, 358

j

Julienning, 293

k

Kaffir lime leaves, 15

l

Lamb:

broth, 92–93

and chicken couscous, 92–95

grilled butterflied leg of, 87–88

shanks, Moroccan, 88–89

shanks with tomato and rosemary, 90–91

tagine with prunes and honey, 96–97

Lasagne for a crowd, 268–74

Latkes, potato, Paul’s, 330–31

Leek(s):

lotte with, 222–23

and potato soup, 30–31

Lemon(s):

preserved, 174

preserved, chicken with olives and, 172–74

tripe soup with, Greek-style, 12–13

Lemongrass, 236

court bouillon, 237

Lentil:

salad, warm, 322–23

soup with garlic vinaigrette, 24–25

Lily buds, 8

hot and sour soup, 6–8

Lime:

butter sauce, salmon with, 216–17

kaffir, leaves, 15

-marinated flank steak, 47

Linguine:

with clam sauce, 257–59

puttanesca, 255

Litchi sorbet, 411

Lo mein, vegetable, 292–93

Lotte with leeks, 222–23

m

Macaroni and two cheeses, 265–66

Manhattan Buffalo wings, 191–92

Maple syrup, spiced, 385

Marinades:

ginger wasabi, 221

honey soy, 221

Mashed potatoes, everyday, 334–35

Matzoh balls:

chicken soup with fresh herbs, 9–10

homemade, 11–12

Mayonnaise:

aïoli, 363

basic, 360

curried, 361

tarragon, 362

Measuring sticky ingredients, 111

Meat, 43–139

braising, 57

oxtail stew with olives, 80–81

tripe, braised, alla Fiorentina, 82–83

veal chops with mustard and cream, 84–85

veal shank, roasted, 85–86

venison chili with red beans, 77–79

see also Beef; Ham; Lamb; Pork; Sausage(s)

Meatballs:

Chinese-style, for a crowd, 128–30

Italian, 69–70

Meat loaf, Italian style, 70–72

Middle Eastern dishes:

baba ghanouj, 320–21

hummus, herbed summer, 317–18

preserved lemons, 174

Mint:

juleps, Chanterelle style, 397

tomato soup, creamy, 32–33

Mirepoix, 39–40

Mise en place, 283

Monkfish:

lotte with leeks, 222–23

with roast shallots and garlic, 224–25

seafood salad, Thai, 235–37

Montana fried “pork chop” sandwiches, 136–37

Moroccan-style dishes:

lamb shanks, 88–89

lamb tagine with prunes and honey, 96–97

Mushroom(s):

barley soup, 26–27

black, chicken with Chinese sausage and, 160–61

chicken cacciatore, 175–76

hot and sour soup, 6–8

porcini, risotto with, 295–97

porcini-tomato sauce, 273–74

sautéing, 272

stuffing, Sara’s, 196–97

two-sides-brown noodles with, 287–89

Mussel(s):

cleaning, 19

fish stew, Provençal, 232–33

soup with saffron, 18–19

spaghetti with tomatoes, cream and, 256–57

Mustard honey dip, 371

Mustardy vinaigrette, ultra, 350

n

Nam pla, 241

New England clam chowder, 16–17

Noodle(s), 282–93

cakes, flipping, 288

rice, Singapore-style, 289–91

rice, stir-fried, with bean sprouts and scallions, 282–83

rice, Thai (pad thai), 284–86

soba salad, 337–38

two-sides-brown, with mushrooms, 287–89

vegetable lo mein, 292–93

see also Pasta

North African–style dishes:

chicken with olives and preserved lemons, 172–74

harissa, doctored, 368–69

lamb and chicken couscous, 92–95

lamb shanks, Moroccan, 88–89

lamb tagine with prunes and honey, Moroccan, 96–97

Nutmeg, freshly grated, 281

o

Oat(meal):

apple crisp, 418–19

chocolate chip cookies, 430–31

cookies, stamp-of-approval, 432–33

pancakes, 393–94

Olive(s):

braised rabbit with tomato and, 208–9

chicken with preserved lemons and, 172–74

linguine puttanesca, 255

oxtail stew with, 80–81

paste, 81

rice salad with pine nuts and, 338–39

image

Onion(s):

cornmeal biscuits, 380–81

hot dog, 324

pork chops, smothered, 105–6

red, cucumber salad with Chinese sausage and, 314–15

soup, French, 35–36

Vidalia, fritters, 326–27

yummy, 325

Orange:

beef, crispy, 48–51

buttermilk corn muffins with, 377–78

peel, drying, 51

Oxtail stew with olives, 80–81

Oyster sauce, 308

broccoli with, 307–8

p

Pad thai (Thai rice noodles), 284–86

Panacea vegetable soup, 28–29

Pancakes:

buttermilk, half-inch–high, 392–93

oatmeal, 393–94

potato latkes, Paul’s, 330–31

see also Crêpes

Panko, 180

chicken McWaltucks, 180–81

Paprika:

chicken paprikás, 162–63

Hungarian, 163

pork goulash, Szeged style, 106–7

stuffed cabbage, Gaby’s Hungarian-style, 122–24

Parmesan, 267

bread, 403

eggplant, 278–79

macaroni and two cheeses, 265–66

ravioli with butter, herbs and, 277

Parmigiano-Reggiano, 267

Parsley:

green goddess dressing, 352–53

green sauce, 364–65

Pasta, 253–81

cooking, 259

lasagne for a crowd, 268–74

linguine puttanesca, 255

linguine with clam sauce, 257–59

macaroni and two cheeses, 265–66

penne, sautéed, with cauliflower and chickpeas, 262–63

ravioli with Parmesan, butter, and herbs, 277

shapes of, 263

shells, stuffed, with ricotta and prosciutto, 280–81

spaghetti with mussels, tomatoes, and cream, 256–57

spaghetti with potatoes and greens, 260–61

tortellini, cheese, with cream, peas, and ham, 276

tortellini, cheese, with sun-dried tomato cream, 274–75

ziti, fried, 264–65

see also Noodle(s)

Pastry dough, 156

Pea(s):

cheese tortellini with cream, ham and, 276

soup with ham, 20–21

Peanut:

lovers’ cookies, 429–30

sauce, spicy, 117–18

Penne, sautéed, with cauliflower and chickpeas, 262–63

Peppers (bell):

ginger pickled vegetables, 343

red, in cider vinegar slaw, 310

sausage and, 131–32

stuffed with rice and sausage, 124–25

Pickled foods:

gingered salmon with wasabi sauce, 214–15

vegetables, ginger, 343

Pickling brine, 215

Picnics, 112

Pies (savory):

chicken potpie and I don’t care, 154–56

cottage, 74–75

Pine nuts:

rice salad with olives and, 338–39

toasting, 339

Pizza:

dough, 299

eggplant, 297–99

no-sauce, 298

Polenta with spicy tomato sauce and poached eggs, 398–99

Porcini:

risotto with, 295–97

tomato sauce, 273–74

Pork, 99–139

aïoli BLTs, 137–38

black bean stew with pig parts, 108–9

changes in, 101

Chinese eggplant with black beans and, 120–21

chops, sautéed, with sauce charcutière, 103–4

chops, smothered, 105–6

“chop” sandwiches, Montana fried, 136–37

goulash, Szeged style, 106–7

loin, herbed pinwheel, 100–101

meatballs, Chinese-style, for a crowd, 128–30

mini ribs, braised, with black bean sauce, 114–15

ribs, oven-roasted barbecued, 110–11

ribs, Wild Turkey glazed, 113–14

saté with spicy peanut sauce, 116–18

stuffed cabbage, Gaby’s Hungarian-style, 122–24

wiener schnitzel, 118–19

see also Ham; Sausage(s)

Potato(es):

baking, 331

boiling, 332

cottage pie, 74–75

fries, our favorite, 327–29

gratin, 329

latkes, Paul’s, 330–31

and leek soup, 30–31

mashed, everyday, 334–35

roast beef hash, 68–69

salad, slightly Southern, 333

spaghetti with greens and, 260–61

Pot-au-feu, 63–64

Potpie, chicken, and I don’t care, 154–56

Poultry:

Cornish hens, Provençal, 152–53

quail, grilled, with soba salad and scallions, 204–5

turkey, roast, the Waltuck way, 195–96

see also Chicken; Duck

Pound cake, cream cheese, 412–13

Prosciutto, stuffed shells with ricotta and, 280–81

Provençal dishes:

Cornish hens, 152–53

fish stew, 232–33

Prunes, lamb tagine with honey and, 96–97

Pudding, challah bread, 424–26

Puerto Rico, chicken à la trip to, 168–69

q

Quail, grilled, with soba salad and scallions, 204–5

r

Rabbit:

braised, with Dijon mustard, 206–7

braised, with tomato and olives, 208–9

Ravioli with Parmesan, butter, and herbs, 277

Red beans, venison chili with, 77–79

Red cabbage, braised, 309

Red-cooked dishes, 149

beef, chilled, 65–67

broth for, 67

chicken, chilled, 148–49

duck, braised, with shiitakes, 200–201

Red wine:

beef stew with vegetables and, 60–62

spiced, dried fruits in, 408–9

Rémoulade, 366

Rendering chicken fat, 143

Ribs:

beef short, braised in beer, 58–59

mini, braised, with black bean sauce, 114–15

oven-roasted barbecued, 110–11

Wild Turkey glazed, 113–14

Rice:

bell peppers stuffed with sausage and, 124–25

chicken and, Dominican, 169–71

coconut, 335

converted, 171

curry, 336

risotto with porcini, 295–97

salad with olives and pine nuts, 338–39

shrimp fried, highly adaptable, 294–95

stuffed cabbage, Gaby’s Hungarian-style, 122–24

Rice noodles:

Singapore-style, 289–91

stir-fried, with bean sprouts and scallions, 282–83

Thai (pad thai), 284–86

image

Ricotta, stuffed shells with prosciutto and, 280–81

Risotto with porcini, 295–97

Root vegetables, roast chicken with cider and, 142–43

s

Saffron, 174

Salads:

chicken, curried, 187

chicken, with tarragon, 188

chicken for, 186

cider vinegar slaw, 310

composed, 351

crisp croutons for, 356

cucumber, with red onion and Chinese sausage, 314–15

dressing, 354

eggplant caponata, 318–19

fennel, 321–22

lentil, warm, 322–23

potato, slightly Southern, 333

rice, with olives and pine nuts, 338–39

seafood, Thai, 235–37

soba, 337–38

soba, grilled quail with scallions and, 204–5

spinach, cooked, with soy and sesame, 341–42

see also Dressings

Salmon:

fresh, croquettes, 218–19

gingered pickled, with wasabi sauce, 214–15

with lime butter sauce, 216–17

sautéed, with brown butter, lemon, and capers, 212–13

Sandwiches:

aïoli BLTs, 137–38

beef, red-cooked, 66

burgers, David’s, 72–73

“pork chop,” Montana fried, 136–37

sloppy Joes, 76–77

Saté, pork, with spicy peanut sauce, 116–18

Sauces, 364–73

béchamel, 311–12

beurre manié as thickener for, 62

butter, separated, 217

crême anglaise, 425–26

green, 364–65

harissa, doctored, 368–69

horseradish, 369–70

peanut, spicy, 117–18

rémoulade, 366

spicy green dipping, 151–52

tamarind dipping, 372–73

tartar, kitchen cupboard, 367

tomato, tasty basic, 271

tomato-porcini, 273–74

wasabi, 214–15

see also Dips; Dressings; Mayonnaise

Sauerkraut, 127

choucroute garni, Alsatian, 126–27

pork goulash, Szeged style, 106–7

stuffed cabbage, Gaby’s Hungarian-style, 122–24

Sausage(s):

bell peppers stuffed with rice and, 124–25

black bean stew with pig parts, 108–9

casings, 135

Chinese, 161

Chinese, chicken with black mushrooms and, 160–61

Chinese, cucumber salad with red onion and, 314–15

choucroute garni, Alsatian, 126–27

garlic, rustic homemade, 132–34

making, 135

and peppers, 131–32

pot-au-feu, 63–64

stuffing, Sara’s, 196–97

Thai rice noodles (pad thai), 284–86

Scallion(s):

ginger sauce, fish with, 225–27

grilled quail with soba salad and, 204–5

stir-fried rice noodles with bean sprouts and, 282–83

Scallops:

fish stew, Provençal, 232–33

seafood salad, Thai, 235–37

Scones, breakfast, Chanterelle, 378–79

Seafood, 211–51

crab cakes, deviled, 245–46

crab cakes with Asian flavors, 246–47

mussels, spaghetti with tomatoes, cream and, 256–57

mussel soup with saffron, 18–19

salad, Thai, 235–37

soft-shell crabs, sautéed, with sorrel butter, 243–44

squid stew, 248–49

see also Clam(s); Fish; Salmon; Shrimp

Sesame:

cooked spinach salad with soy and, 341–42

-crusted fish fillets with garlic-ginger sauce, 230–31

oil, Asian, 342

tahini, 316

Shallots, monkfish with roast garlic and, 224–25

Shells, stuffed, with ricotta and prosciutto, 280–81

Shiitakes:

braised duck with, 200–201

hot and sour soup, 6–8

stuffing, Sara’s, 196–97

Shortcakes:

ginger, summertime, 422–23

strawberries for, 423

Short ribs, beef, braised in beer, 58–59

Shrimp:

with black bean sauce, 240–41

dried, 286

fried rice, highly adaptable, 294–95

seafood salad, Thai, 235–37

Singapore-style rice noodles, 289–91

soup, Thai, 14–15

Thai rice noodles (pad thai), 284–86

Side dishes, 301–45

applesauce, spiced, 303

baba ghanouj, 320–21

beans, baked, Sabrina’s, 304–5

beets with balsamic vinegar, 306–7

broccoli with oyster sauce, 307–8

cauliflower gratin, 310–12

chickpeas, curried, three-can, 315–16

corn, creamed, summertime, 313

cucumber salad with red onion and Chinese sausage, 314–15

eggplant caponata, 318–19

fennel salad, 321–22

fries, our favorite, 327–29

ginger pickled vegetables, 343

green beans, 305

hummus, herbed summer, 317–18

lentil salad, warm, 322–23

onion, Vidalia, fritters, 326–27

onions, hot dog, 324

onions, yummy, 325

potatoes, baked, 331

potatoes, boiled, 332

potatoes, mashed, everyday, 334–35

potato gratin, 329

potato latkes, Paul’s, 330–31

potato salad, slightly Southern, 333

red cabbage, braised, 309

rice, coconut, 335

rice, curry, 336

rice salad with olives and pine nuts, 338–39

slaw, cider vinegar, 310

soba salad, 337–38

spinach, creamed, 340–41

spinach salad, cooked, with soy and sesame, 341–42

tomatoes, marinated, with balsamic vinegar and basil, 344

zucchini coins, fried, 345

Singapore-style rice noodles, 289–91

Slaw, cider vinegar, 310

Sloppy Joes, 76–77

Soba salad, 337–38

grilled quail with scallions and, 204–5

Sorbet, litchi, 411

Sorrel butter, sautéed soft-shell crabs with, 243–44

Soufflé cake, fallen chocolate, 413–14

Soups, 3–41

avocado, chilled, 37

beef borscht, hot, for Aunt Gertie, 4–5

black bean, 22–23

butternut squash and bourbon, 34–35

chicken, with fresh herbs, 9–12

clam chowder, New England, 16–17

cranberry, zesty, 409–10

hot and sour, 6–8

leek and potato, 30–31

lentil, with garlic vinaigrette, 24–25

matzoh balls for, homemade, 11–12

mushroom-barley, 26–27

mussel, with saffron, 18–19

onion, French, 35–36

pea, with ham, 20–21

shrimp, Thai, 14–15

tomato mint, creamy, 32–33

tripe, with lemon, Greek-style, 12–13

vegetable, panacea, 28–29

see also Stocks

image

Southern fare:

pork chops, smothered, 105–6

potato salad, slightly Southern, 333

Soy honey marinade, 221

Spaghetti:

with mussels, tomatoes, and cream, 256–57

with potatoes and greens, 260–61

Spiced-up honey cake, 415–17

Spices:

chili seasoning, 79

five-spice powder, Chinese, 54

ginger, fresh, 227

nutmeg, freshly grated, 281

paprika, Hungarian, 163

saffron, 174

star anise, 54

Spinach:

cooked, salad with soy and sesame, 341–42

creamed, 340–41

fresh, wilting, 340

green sauce, 364–65

Spritzers, white wine, 396

Squash, butternut, and bourbon soup, 34–35

Squid:

cleaning, 249

fish stew, Provençal, 232–33

seafood salad, Thai, 235–37

stew, 248–49

Star anise, 54

beef fillets with, 52–54

Stews:

beef, with red wine and vegetables, 60–62

beurre manié as thickener for, 62

black bean, with pig parts, 108–9

chicken à la trip to Puerto Rico, 168–69

chicken and dumplings, Melicia’s, 164–66

choosing meat for, 61

fish, Provençal, 232–33

lamb tagine with prunes and honey, 96–97

oxtail, with olives, 80–81

pork goulash, Szeged style, 106–7

pot-au-feu, 63–64

rabbit, braised, with tomato and olives, 208–9

squid, 248–49

venison chili with red beans, 77–79

Stir-fried rice noodles with bean sprouts and scallions, 282–83

Stocks:

chicken, 39–40

degreasing, 40

fish, 41

ham, 20–21

veal, beefed-up, 38–39

see also Broths

Strawberries, for shortcakes, 423

Stuffed:

bell peppers, with rice and sausage, 124–25

cabbage, Gaby’s Hungarian-style, 122–24

shells with ricotta and prosciutto, 280–81

Stuffing, Sara’s, 196–97

Sugar, vanilla, 379

Sweating vegetables, 29

Sweet-and-sour sauce, spicy, crispy fish with, 228–29

Syrup, spiced maple, 385

t

Tagine, lamb, with prunes and honey, 96–97

Tahini, 316

Tamarind:

dipping sauce, 372–73

pulp, 372

Tangerine peel, drying, 51

Tarragon:

chicken salad with, 188

chicken with tomato and, bistro-style, 166–67

cream sauce, ham and cheese crêpes with, 386–89

mayonnaise, 362

shirred eggs with Smithfield ham and, 395–96

Tartar sauce:

kitchen cupboard, 367

rémoulade, 366

Thai-style dishes:

duck curry, 198–99

fish with ginger-scallion sauce, 225–27

pork saté with spicy peanut sauce, 116–17

rice noodles (pad thai), 284–86

seafood salad, 235–37

shrimp soup, 14–15

Thanksgiving fare, 194

stuffing, Sara’s, 196–97

turkey, roast, the Waltuck way, 195–96

Tomato(es):

marinated, with balsamic vinegar and basil, 344

mint soup, creamy, 32–33

peeling and seeding, 33

porcini sauce, 273–74

sauce, tasty basic, 271

Tomato(es), sun-dried:

cream, cheese tortellini with, 274–75

linguine puttanesca, 255

Tortellini, cheese:

with cream, peas, and ham, 276

with sun-dried tomato cream, 274–75

Tripe:

braised, alla Fiorentina, 82–83

buying and cooking, 83

soup with lemon, Greek-style, 12–13

Truffles, black, matzoh balls with, 11

Tuiles, 427–28

Tuna with two marinades, 220–21

Turkey:

roast, the Waltuck way, 195–96

stuffing for, Sara’s, 196–97

Two-sides-brown noodles with mushrooms, 287–89

v

Vanilla sugar, 379

Veal:

chops with mustard and cream, 84–85

pot-au-feu, 63–64

shank, roasted, 85–86

stock, beefed-up, 38–39

Vegetable(s):

ginger pickled, 343

lo mein, 292–93

soup, panacea, 28–29

sweating, 29

see also Side dishes; specific vegetables

Venison chili with red beans, 77–79

Vidalia onion fritters, 326–27

Vinaigrettes:

garlic, 25

ultra mustardy, 350

Vinegar:

Chinese black, 49

see also Balsamic vinegar

w

Waffles, breakfast, Chanterelle’s, 390–91

Wasabi:

ginger marinade, 221

sauce, 214–15

White wine spritzers, 396

Wiener schnitzel, 118–19

Wild Turkey glazed ribs, 113–14

Wine:

red, beef stew with vegetables and, 60–62

red, spiced, dried fruits in, 408–9

white, spritzers, 396

Wood ear mushrooms, 8

hot and sour soup, 6–8

z

Ziti, fried, 264–65

Zucchini coins, fried, 345