| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Z |
Aalto, Alvar: 346
Abbey Mansion: 284–285
Abélard, Peter: 363–364
Absinthe museum, in Auvers: 611
Abstract art: 345–347
Abstract Expressionism: 349–350
Abstract Surrealism: 348
Accommodations: See Sleeping
Age of Bronze, The (Rodin): 228
Agoudas Hakehilos Synagogue: 323
Airlines (airfares): 671; budgeting, 5
Airports: 509–518; sleeping near, 417–418; tourist information, 21–22; VAT refunds, 628–629. See also specific airports
À La Mère de Famille Confectionery: 210
Alliance Française: 41
Almanac, Paris: 9
American Church and Franco-American Center: 40, 41, 264, 388, 676; concerts, 20, 65, 388, 492
American Embassy and Consulate: 313, 676
American Hospital: 675
American Library: 41
American University: 264
Amsterdam: train travel, 527
Amusement parks: 457. See also Disneyland Paris
Apartment rentals: 418–419, 637–640
Apollo Basin (Versailles): 557
Apollo Gallery (Louvre): 147–148
Apollo Room (Versailles): 551
Appel, Karel: 349
Apps: audioguides, 631; Gogo Paris, 24; navigation, 24, 629–630
Aquaboulevard: 461
Aquarium: 455
Aquinas, Thomas: 116
Arab World Institute: 87
Arcaded shopping streets (passages): 487
Arcades des Champs-Elysées: 308–309
Arc de Triomphe: 55, 80–81, 86, 300–304; with children, 455; at night, 69, 494
Archaeological Crypt: 53, 56, 109
Architecture and Monuments Museum: 66–67, 69
Arearea, or Joyousness (Gauguin): 186
Army Museum: 67–68, 236–259; concerts, 237, 492; general info, 54, 67–68, 236–237; maps, 239, 256; self-guided tour, 238–259
Arp, Jean: 348
Arrondissements: map, 14; overview, 14–17. See also Neighborhoods
Art: See Art museums; And specific artists, artworks and periods
Artisan Boulangerie: 209–210
Art museums: advance tickets, 52; daily reminder, 20–21; evening hours, 493; Paris Museum Pass, 23, 49–52, 64; planning tips, 630–631; Architecture and Monuments Museum, 66–67, 69; Cluny Museum, 71–72, 291–298; Dalí Museum, 378; Delacroix Museum, 73–74, 283–284; International Stained Glass Center (Chartres), 597; Jacquemart-André Museum, 55, 93–94; Jewish Art and History Museum, 55, 95–98; Louis Vuitton Foundation, 304; Maison-Atelier de Daubigny (Auvers), 611; Marmottan Museum, 70–71, 269–277; Musée Daubigny (Auvers), 610; Musée des Beaux-Arts (Paris), 81–82, 309–310; Musée en Herbe, 456; Museum of Erotic Art, 384–385; Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny), 605; Orangerie Museum, 61, 191–199; Picasso Museum, 95, 328–337; Quai Branly Museum, 62–63, 69; Rodin Museum, 68, 225–235. See also Louvre Museum; Orsay Museum; Pompidou Center
Art Nouveau: 188–189, 323; Cité Métropolitain stop, 129–130
Assyrians: 163–166
ATMs: 624–625
Attitude of the French: 6–7
Auberge Ravoux (Auvers): 612
Au Bougnante: 106
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 8, 11, 24, 673
Au Gré des Vents: 478
Au Lapin Agile Cabaret: 380–381, 490–491
Auvers-sur-Oise: 607–613; eating, 613; helpful hints, 609; sights, 610–612; sleeping, 612–613; tourist information, 608–609; transportation, 608
Auvers-sur-Oise Château: 611–612
Auvers-sur-Oise Church: 610
Avenue de la Bourdonnais: eating, 214, 427–428; sleeping, 394, 395
Avenue de Marigny: 309
Avenue des Champs-Elysées: See Champs-Elysées
Avenue du Général Leclerc: 80
Babysitters: 451
Back Door travel philosophy: 13
Baggage storage: 24
Balthus: 349
Balzac (Rodin): 230–231
Bastille: 17, 267, 317–319; eating, 431, 434; market, 486–487
Bastille Day: 267, 318, 319, 677
Bateau-Lavoir: 381–382
Beaches (Paris Plages): 57, 134, 266, 677
Beaubourg: See Pompidou Center
Beaujolais Nouveau: 505
Beaumarchais: 319
Beauvais Airport: 517–518
Beckmann, Max: 347
Bed-and-breakfasts: 419–420, 637
Belleville: market, 486
Belvedere (Versailles): 562
Bernhardt, Sarah: 365
Beverages: 655–659. See also Wine and vineyards
BHV (department store): 325, 437
Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris: 322–323
Big Bus Paris: 38
Biking: 35–36, 68, 70, 457, 460; with children, 460; Fontainebleau, 572; Giverny, 602–603; Tour de France, 310–311, 677; tours, 44, 460; Versailles, 556
Bird market: 130
Birth of Venus (Cabanel): 172–173
Bishop’s Palace (Chartres): 595
Blues music: 489–490
Blue Virgin Window (Chartres Cathedral): 588
Boat cruises: 39, 42, 460–461; dinner, 447; Le Havre Cruise Port, 530–531; at night, 493
Bon Marché: 475–476
Books, recommended: 678–680; for children, 452–453
Booksellers (bouquinistes): 119–120, 266
Botticelli, Sandro: 148
Boulangeries: 209–210, 300, 308, 378, 452, 606, 609, 644
Boules: 237, 264, 389, 454, 457
Boulevard de Grenelle: market, 388–389, 486
Boulevard de Ménilmontant: 267, 354
Boulevard des Batignolles: market, 487
Boulevard du Palais: 129
Boulevard Malesherbes: shopping, 473–474
Boulevard Richard Lenoir: 267; market, 397, 486; sleeping, 402
Boulevard Rochechouart: 370
Boulevard St. Germain: 264–265, 281, 285–286; cafés, 286, 448–449; eating, 440; shopping, 478
Boulevard St. Michel: 123
Braille, Louis: 78
Brancusi, Constantin: 339, 345
Brasserie Bofinger: 431
Breakfast: overview, 642–643
Brussels: train travel, 527
Budgeting: 5–7
Burghers of Calais (Rodin): 234–235
Buses: 29–31, 530; Beauvais Airport, 517; Chantilly, 575–576; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 511–513; Disneyland Paris, 462–463; Giverny, 601–602; Luxembourg Garden area, 408–409; Marais, 398; Montmartre, 415–416; Orly Airport, 516; Puces St. Ouen, 482–483; Rue Cler, 392; scenic routes, 32–33; sightseeing tour, 260–268; tickets, 25–26; tours, 36–38, 461, 497; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 568–569
Business hours: 623
Cabanel, Alexandre: 172–173
Cabaret: 490–491; Montmartre, 377, 380–381, 490–491
Cabaret de Patachou: 377
Cabs: See Taxis
Cafés: 447–449, 646–648; common dishes, 651–655; history of, 448; ordering tips, 647–648; Champs-Elysées, 307–308; Chartres, 598; Gare de Lyon, 449; Giverny, 606–607; near the Louvre, 139; Luxembourg Garden area, 290, 449; Orsay Museum, 169; Puces St. Ouen, 484; St. Germain-des-Prés, 286, 448–449; Versailles, 541. See also specific cafés
Café de la Palette: 282–283
Café de Mars: 428
Café de Paris: 440
Café de Roussillon: 423
Café des Deux Moulins: 383
Calder, Alexander: 348
Callas, Maria: 355
Canal St. Martin: 267; eating, 447
Canauxrama: 41
Candlelit visits, at Vaux-le-Vicomte Château: 569–570
Card Players, The (Cézanne): 182
Car rentals: 23; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 515
Car travel (driving): Auvers, 609; Chartres, 579; Disneyland Paris, 463; Fontainebleau, 573; Giverny, 601; parking, in Paris, 530; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 569; Versailles, 538
Cassatt, Mary: 82
Catacombs of Paris: 79–80
Cathedral Close (Chartres): 594–595
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres: See Chartres Cathedral
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris: See Notre-Dame Cathedral
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Caveau de la Huchette: 490
Caviar Kaspia: 473
Cell (mobile) phones: 11, 659–663
Cemetery: See Père Lachaise Cemetery
Center of New Industries and Technologies (CNIT): 85–86
Centre International du Vitrail (Chartres): 597
Centre Pompidou: See Pompidou Center
Cézanne, Paul: 182–183, 197, 607
Champ de Mars: 70, 262–263, 430, 454–455, 502
Champs-Elysées: 15, 54, 80, 305; cafés, 307–308; with children, 455; eating near, 300; maps, 82–83, 302–303; at night, 494; walking tour, 299–314
Channel crossing: 528–529
Chantilly Château: 575–577
Charcuteries: 207, 211, 480, 644
Charcuterie-Traiteur Jeusselin: 207
Charles de Gaulle Airport: 509–515; map, 510; sleeping, 417–418; transportation, 511–515, 518
Chartres (town): 578–599; eating, 598–599; helpful hints, 579; history of, 586–587, 589; map, 580–581; planning tips, 578–579; sights, 580–597; sleeping, 597–598; tourist information, 579; walking tour, 594–597
Chartres Cathedral: 580–594; map, 584; tours, 582
Châteaux near Paris: 567–577; Auvers-sur-Oise, 611–612; Chantilly, 575–577; Fontainebleau, 571–574; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 568–571. See also Versailles Château
Cheeses: 654. See also Fromageries
Children: 450–464; eating tips, 451–452; parenting French-style, 451; planning tips, 450–451; reading list, 452–453; sightseeing tips, 452–454; top activities and sights, 454–464
Chinese New Year: 507
Chopin, Frédéric: 361–362, 475
Christmas carousels: 506
Christmas season: 506–507, 677
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 616; concerts, 20, 65, 72, 280, 491–492, 507; English-language, 676; Auvers-sur-Oise Church, 610; Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 479, 481; Sacré-Cœur, 55, 86–87, 371–376; St. Aignan (Chartres), 596; St. Germain-des-Prés, 72, 286; St. Julien-le-Pauvre, 120; St. Paul and St. Louis, 267; St. Pierre (Chartres), 596; St. Pierre-de-Montmartre, 376–377; St. Séverin, 121–122; St. Sulpice, 287–288; St. Sulpice Church, 72–73. See also Chartres Cathedral; Notre-Dame Cathedral; Sainte-Chapelle
Cimabue: 148
Cimetière du Père Lachaise: See Père Lachaise Cemetery
Cinéaqua: 455
Citadium: 470
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine: 66–67, 69
Cité des Enfants: 460
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie: 459–460
Citroën: 309
Claudel, Camille: 68, 187, 228, 231–232
Clignancourt flea market: 481–484; map, 482
Clos Montmartre Vineyard: 380
Clothing: See Fashion
Clothing sizes: 682
Cluny Museum: 71–72, 291–298; eating near, 444; general info, 55, 72, 291; map, 292; self-guided tour, 292–298
Code of Hammurabi: 161–162
Coffee: 656–658. See also Cafés
Colette: 365–366
“Communards’ Wall”: 358
Conceptual Art: 352
Concerts: 20, 65, 72, 280, 491–492, 507
Conciergerie: 57, 130–133, 266, 502–503
Constant, Christian: 428–429
Consulates: 676
Context Travel: 43
Corday, Charlotte: 132
Coronation of Emperor Napoleon (David): 155–156
Costs of trip: 5–7
Crêpes (crêperies): 325, 423, 435–436, 439, 645
Cruises: See Boat cruises
Cubism: 196, 197, 330–331, 342–343
Cuisine: 650–655; common dishes, 651–655; by region, 650–651; seasonal, 508. See also Cafés; Eating; Food
Curie, Marie: 78
Currency and exchange: 624–625
Customs regulations: 629
Cycling: See Biking
Dadaism: 347
Dalí, Salvador: 348; Museum, 378
Dance at the Moulin de la Galette (Renoir): 182
Dance Class, The (Degas): 179
Daubigny, Charles-François: 607, 610, 611
Daumier, Honoré: 172
David, Jacques-Louis: 155–156, 364
Da Vinci, Leonardo: 152; Mona Lisa, 153–154
Davoli: 207
Day trips: 533–613; guided tours, 45–47; map, 534. See also specific destinations
D-Day beaches: guided tours, 46
Deconstructionism: 351–352
Degas, Edgar: 179–180
De Gaulle, Charles: 68, 81, 124, 247, 251, 253, 303, 309, 327, 618; exhibit at Army Museum, 237, 259
De Gaulle Airport: See Charles de Gaulle Airport
Delacroix, Eugène: 73–74, 157–158, 287, 364, 577; Museum, 73–74, 283–284
Delaunay, Robert and Sonia: 346
Delville, Jean: 189
Department stores: 467, 470; map, 468–469. See also specific department stores
Derain, André: 198
Desserts: overview, 654–655
Detaille, Edouard: 189
Deux Chevaux Car Tours: 496
Diana Room (Versailles): 549–550
Dietary restrictions: 648
Dining: See Cafés; Eating
Dinner cruises: 447
Dinosaurs: 459
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Disneyland Paris: 461–464
Dix, Otto: 347
Doctors: 23
Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 561–564
Drinks: 655–659. See also Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel
Dubuffet, Jean: 349
Ducasse, Alain: 222–223
Duchamp, Marcel: 347
Eating: 421–449, 640–655; common dishes, 651–655; cuisine, 650–655; dietary restrictions, 648; dinner cruises, 447; restaurant phrases, 688; tipping, 627, 646; with children, 451–452; Army Museum, 237; Auvers-sur-Oise, 613; budgeting, 5–6; Champs-Elysées, 300; Chantilly, 577; Chartres, 598–599; Disneyland Paris, 464; Eiffel Tower, 214, 427; Fontainebleau, 574; Giverny, 606–607; Ile St. Louis, 438–439; Louvre Museum, 139; Luxembourg Garden area, 440–445; Marais, 324–325, 429–437; Montmartre, 370, 445–447; Orsay Museum, 169; Pompidou Center, 339; pricing, 641–642; Puces St. Ouen, 484; Rodin Museum, 226; Rue Cler, 422–429; Vernon, 606; Versailles, 541–542, 565–566. See also Cafés; Crêpes; Markets
Egouts de Paris: 63–65
Eiffel Tower: 61–62, 86, 212–224, 262–263; best views of, 63, 86, 216; with children, 454; eating, 214, 427; general info, 54, 62, 212–213, 215–216; history of, 218–219, 220–221; map, 218; at night, 69, 494; reservations, 10–11, 212–213, 215; self-guided tour, 217–224
Eiffel Tower area: 15–16, 61–71, 212–224; with children, 454–455; eating, 427–428; map, 63, 213. See also Rue Cler
Electricity: 623–624
Elysée Palace: 312
Elysées Montmartre: 370
E-mail: See Internet access
Embassies: 676; American, 313, 676
Enfants Rouges Market: 397, 486
Entertainment: See Nightlife
Erotic Art Museum: 384–385
Esplanade de La Défense: 85–87
Esplanade des Invalides: 264, 501–502
Estrella: 478
Eure River: 596–597
European Union (EU): 619–620
Exchange rate: 625
Excursion areas: 533–613; guided tours, 45–47; map, 534. See also specific destinations
Expositions d’Explora: 460
Expressionism: 347; Abstract, 349–350
Faire la Bise: 209
Fashion: boutiques, 470–481; clothing sizes, 682; department stores, 467, 470
Fauchon: 471–473
Fauvism: 341–342
Festivals: 677–678
Films, recommended: 680–681
Flea markets: 481–484
Floodlit Paris Taxi Tour: 497–503; map, 498–499
Flower market: 130
Fondation Louis Vuitton: 304
Fontainebleau (town): 572–573, 574
Fontainebleau Château: 571–574
Fontana, Lucio: 349
Food: cooking schools, 41, 435–436; cruises, 447; guided tours, 435; Place de la Madeleine, 471–473; Rue Cler, 200–211; Rue des Martyrs, 479–481; seasonal, 508. See also Boulangeries; Charcuteries; Chocolate; Crêpes; Eating; Fromageries; Markets; Pâtisseries
Foucault’s pendulum: 77
Fouquet’s: 307–308
Fragonard Perfume Museum: 93
Franklin, Benjamin: 286, 308, 313, 448
Franprix: 204
Free sights and activities: 64–65
French kiss: 209
French language: See Language
French National Assembly: 314
French pronunciation guide: 685–686
French restaurant phrases: 688
French survival phrases: 687
Fromageries: 204–205, 480, 644
Funicular, Montmartre: 369–370
Galerie Colbert: 60
Galerie d’Anatomie Comparée et de Paléontologie: 459
Galerie des Enfants du Muséum: 459
Galeries Lafayette: 87, 93, 468, 470, 492
Gardens: See Giverny; Luxembourg Garden; Parks and gardens; Tuileries Garden
Gare de Bercy: 527
Gare de l’Est: 524–525
Gare de Lyon: 522–524; cafés, 449
Gare d’Orsay: 169–170. See also Orsay Museum
Gare du Nord: 520–521
Gare Montparnasse: 521–522
Gare St. Lazare: 525
Garnier Opera House: 16, 55, 88–92, 492–493; map, 91
Gates of Hell (Rodin): 187–188, 233–234
Gauguin, Paul: 185–186
Gay and lesbian travelers: 325, 397, 437–438
Gehry, Frank: 304
Gérard Mulot’s: 478
Géricault, Théodore: 156–157, 364
Giacometti, Alberto: 349
Giotto: 148–150
Giverny: 600–607; eating, 606–607; map, 602; sights, 603–606; sleeping, 606; tourist information, 603; transportation, 601–603
Gleaners, The (Millet): 172–173
Gogo Paris: 24
Grand Canal (Versailles): 557–558
Grand Châteaux near Paris: See Châteaux near Paris; Versailles Château
Grande Arche de la Fraternité: 55, 84–86
Grande Galerie de l’Evolution: 459
Grand Palais: 83–84, 264, 309–310
Grand Trianon (Versailles): 559–561
Greek statues, in the Louvre: 140–143
Grosz, George: 347
Guerlain: 309
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 672–673; updates, 4, 24
Guided tours: See Tours
Guides: See Tour guides
Guillaume, Paul: 195
Hall of Mirrors (Versailles): 552–553
Hamlet, the (Versailles): 562–563
Haussmann, Georges-Eugène, Baron: 16, 79, 89, 122, 304, 319, 322; tomb, 366
Hédiard: 473
Héloïse: 363–364
Hemingway, Ernest: 42, 74, 121, 286, 355–356, 448, 474, 679
Henry IV: 112, 133–134, 266, 290, 320, 321, 595, 615
Hercules Drawing Room (Versailles): 547–548
Hermès: 477
Hiking: Fontainebleau, 572; Giverny, 603; Versailles, 556
Historic core of Paris: 15, 52–57; eating, 106; maps, 50–51, 104–105; walking tour, 103–135
History: 614–618; timeline of Paris, 112–113
History museum (Carnavalet Museum): 95, 322
Holidays: 677–678; winter in Paris, 504–508
Holocaust Memorial: 98, 325–326
Homage to Stravinsky (Tinguely): 326
Honoré de Balzac (Rodin): 230–231
Horseback riding: 457
Horse museum, at Chantilly: 577
Hostels: 402, 413, 416–417, 640; Auvers, 612–613; Chartres, 598
Hôtel de Sully: 320
Hôtel de Ville: 266, 327; eating near, 437
Hôtel Hyatt Regency: 84
Hotels: 633–637; key phrases, 635; reservations, 8, 638–639. See also Sleeping
Hugo, Victor: 67, 78, 109, 117, 235, 267, 362; House, 100–101, 321
Ice skating: 506
Ile de la Cité: 15, 53, 56, 265–266; eating, 106; guided tours, 42–43; map, 104–105; walking tours, 108–118, 124–134
Ile St. Louis: 56, 57, 118–119, 404–405; eating, 106, 438–439; guided tours, 42–43; ice cream, 106, 440; map, 104–105; at night, 494; picnicking, 439–440; sleeping, 404–405; transportation, 513
Impression: Sunrise (Monet): 273
Impressionism: 176–177, 341; Giverny, 600–601, 603–605; Marmottan Museum, 70–71, 269–277; Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny), 605; Orangerie Museum, 61, 191–199; Orsay Museum, 176–183. See also specific artists and artworks
In a Café (Degas): 179–180
Information: See Tourist information
Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 156, 170–171, 257, 364
Institut de France: 280–281
Institut du Monde Arabe: 87
International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 597
Internet access: 664; Chartres, 579
Internet security: 663
Iraq antiquities, in the Louvre: 159–166
Italian Renaissance art, in the Louvre: 150–155, 158–159
Itineraries: 17–20
Jacquemart-André Museum: 55, 69, 93–94
Jane Avril Dancing (Toulouse-Lautrec): 175
Jardin des Plantes: 75, 458–459
Jardin des Tuileries: See Tuileries Garden
Jardin du Luxembourg: See Luxembourg Garden
Jazz music: 489–490
Jefferson, Thomas: 308
Jewish Art and History Museum: 55, 95–98
Jewish Quarter: 323–325; eating, 324–325, 436–437
Joan of Arc: 72, 115, 287–288, 374–375, 615
Jo Goldenberg: 324
Joséphine Baker Pool: 461
Jules Verne Restaurant: 214, 222–223
Kandinsky, Wassily: 344–345
Kids: See Children
Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig: 347
Kiss,The (Rodin): 228–229
Klee, Paul: 346
Kokoschka, Oskar: 347
La Belle Jardinière (Raphael): 152–153
Labyrinth (Chartres Cathedral): 585
La Dernière Goutte: 285
Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 71, 296–297
La Fontaine de Mars: 427
La Grande Arche de la Fraternité: 55, 84–86
La Grande Odalisque (Ingres): 156
La Maison-Atelier de Daubigny (Auvers): 611
La Maison des Truffe: 473
La Maison du Chocolat: 477
La Maison Rose Restaurant: 379–380
La Marseillaise (Rude): 301
Language: barrier and French attitude, 6–7; classes, 41; hotel terms, 635; online translation tip, 624; pronunciation guide, 685–686; restaurant phrases, 688; shopping phrases, 466; survival phrases, 687; transportation phrases, 522–523
La Réveillon: 507
Latin Quarter: 71, 122–124; guided tours, 42–43; map, 73; nightlife, 489–490
Latona Basin (Versailles): 556
La Tour d’Argent: 119
La Tour Eiffel: See Eiffel Tower
La Tour Montparnasse: 78–79, 87
Laundry: Chartres, 579; Marais, 397; Montmartre, 414; Rue Cler, 389
La Villette Jazz Festival: 677
Leader Price: 208
Le Bateau-Lavoir: 381–382
Le Bus Direct: 512, 516, 523–524
Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 178–179
Left Bank: 16–17, 71–80; bouquinistes, 119–120, 266; maps, 73, 279, 476; shopping, 475–479; walking tours, 119–124, 278–290. See also Historic core of Paris
Léger, Fernand: 344
Le Havre Cruise Port: 530–531
Le Jules Verne Restaurant: 214, 222–223
Le Loir dans la Théière: 323
Le Marais: See Marais
Le Parc Zoologique de Paris: 456
L’Epicerie Fine: 208
Les Berges du Seine: 66, 70, 458
Les Bouquinistes: See Bouquinistes
Les Deux Magots Café: 286, 448
Les Egouts de Paris: 63–65
Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (Versailles): 543–544
Les Halles: 203–204
Les Invalides: 236–259, 430, 501–502. See also Army Museum
L’Espace Dalí: 378
Le Tour de France: 310–311, 677
Le Violon d’Ingres: 428
Lhermitte, Léon: 189
Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix): 73, 157–158, 284
Lido of Paris: 306
Little Prince, The (Saint-Exupéry): 283
Live music: See Music
L’Officiel des Spectacles: 22, 488
Loire Valley: guided tours, 46
London: train travel, 528–529
Longchamps: 478
L’Orangerie: See Orangerie Museum
Louis IX: 116, 124, 128, 586, 587
Louis Vuitton: 307
Louis Vuitton Foundation: 304
Louis XIII: 60, 115, 290, 321, 486, 571
Louis XIV (Sun King): 112, 115, 133, 236, 239, 255–256, 264, 305, 474–475, 542–543, 570, 615; Versailles, 535, 542–554, 556–558
Louis XVI: 57, 60, 132, 147, 305, 312, 543, 551, 615
Louvre Museum: 58, 136–166, 265; cafés near, 139; eating, 139; general info, 54, 58, 136–139; maps, 137, 141, 149, 160; at night, 502; self-guided tour, 140–166; survival tips, 139–140
Luggage storage: 24
Luncheon on the Grass (Manet): 178–179
Luxembourg Garden: 74, 288–290, 405; with children, 457–458; map, 289; picnicking, 430
Luxembourg Garden area: cafés, 290, 449; eating, 440–445; maps, 406–407, 442–443; musts for temporary residents, 408; services, 405, 408; sleeping, 409–413; transportation, 408–409
Luxor obelisk: 312–313
Mail: 664. See also Post offices
Maison-Atelier de Daubigny (Auvers): 611
Maison du Chocolat: 477
Maison du Docteur Gachet (Auvers): 612
Maison du Saumon (Chartres): 595
Maison Victor Hugo: 100–101, 321
Manet, Edouard: 173, 177–179, 272, 277
Mantegna, Andrea: 151–152
Maps: apps and navigation tools, 629–630; legend, 2. See also Map Index
Marais: 17, 94–101, 266–267, 396–399; eating, 324–325, 429–437; guided tours, 42–43; maps, 96–97, 317–318, 400–401, 432–433; markets, 397, 486; musts for temporary residents, 398; at night, 495; nightlife, 437–438; picnicking, 437; services, 397–398; shopping, 470–471, 479–481; sleeping, 399–404; tourist office, 397; transportation, 397–398, 513; walking tour, 315–327
Marat, Jean-Paul: 132
Marché: See Markets
Marie-Antoinette: 57, 131, 132–133, 457; Versailles, 535, 539, 543, 544, 546, 554, 556, 560–564
Markets: 481–487; Bastille, 486–487; Boulevard de Grenelle, 388–389, 486; Boulevard des Batignolles, 487; Boulevard Richard Lenoir, 397, 486; Chantilly, 577; Chartres, 579, 595; Christmas, 506; Enfants Rouges, 397, 486; Les Halles, 203–204; Luxembourg Garden area, 408; Marais, 397, 486; Montmartre, 413–414; Place d’Aligre, 397, 486; Place d’Anvers, 369, 413–414; Place Louis Lépine, 130; Rue Cler, 388–389, 484; Rue Daguerre, 485; Rue de Buci, 285, 484; Rue de Seine, 484; Rue des Martyrs, 484; Rue Montorgueil, 484–485; Rue Mouffetard, 485; Versailles, 565–566. See also Clignancourt flea market
Marmottan Museum: 70–71, 269–277; general info, 55, 71, 269–270; self-guided tour, 271–277
Marriage at Cana (Veronese): 154–155
Mars Room (Versailles): 550
Martin, Henri: 189
Mary’s Veil (Chartres Cathedral): 590–591
McDonald’s: 306
Medical help: 23, 623, 675–676
Meeting the locals: 40–41
Meetup: 41
Mémorial de la Déportation: 56, 118
Mémorial de la Shoah: 98, 325–326
Ménagerie des Jardins des Plantes: 459
Mercedes-Benz: 306
Mercury Room (Versailles): 550–551
Metric system: 681–682
Métro: 9, 26–27; Cité stop, 129–130; etiquette, 28–29; key words, 29; Luxembourg Garden area, 408; Marais, 397–398; Montmartre, 414–415; pickpockets, 22, 27; Puces St. Ouen, 482; resources, 27; Rue Cler, 392; tickets, 25–26, 28
Michelangelo Buonarotti: 158–159
Millet, Jean-François: 172–173
Miniature golf: 461
Ministry of Defense: 264
Modigliani, Amedeo: 198–199, 364, 382
Molière: 359–360
Mona Lisa (da Vinci): 153–154
Mondrian, Piet: 345
Monet, Claude: 82, 180–181, 231, 271–272; Giverny Garden and House, 603–605; grave, 605–606; Marmottan Museum, 70–71, 271–276; Orangerie Museum, 61, 191–196; Orsay Museum, 180–181
Money: 624–629; budgeting, 5–7
Money-saving tips: 10, 624; eating, 421; Paris Museum Pass, 23, 49–52, 64; sightseeing, 64–65; sleeping, 632–633; transportation, 25–26; Versailles, 540
Montmartre: 17, 55, 101–102, 368–385, 413–416; cabaret, 377, 380–381, 490–491; eating, 370, 445–447; guided tours, 42–43; maps, 372–373, 414–415; markets, 413–414; orientation, 368–370; services, 413–414; sleeping, 416–417; tourist office, 21; transportation, 369, 414–416, 513; walking tour, 368–385
Montmartre Museum: 102, 378–379
Morard, Gilbert: 360
Moulin de la Galette: 382–383
Moulin Rouge: 384
Movies, outdoor, at La Villette: 493
Movies, recommended: 680–681
Mur des Fédérés (Père Lachaise Cemetery): 358
Musée d’Art et Histoire du Judaïsme: 55, 95–98
Musée Daubigny (Auvers): 610
Musée de l’Absinthe (Auvers): 611
Musée de l’Armée: See Army Museum
Musée de l’Orangerie: See Orangerie Museum
Musée de Montmartre: 102, 378–379
Musée des Beaux-Arts (Paris): 81–82, 309–310
Musée d’Orsay: See Orsay Museum
Musée du Louvre: See Louvre Museum
Musée du Quai Branly: 62–63, 69
Musée du Vin: 67
Musée en Herbe: 456
Musée Jacquemart-André: 55, 69, 93–94
Musée Marmottan Monet: See Marmottan Museum
Musée National de la Marine: 66, 455
Musée National du Moyen Age: See Cluny Museum
Musée National Eugène Delacroix: 73–74, 283–284
Musée Picasso: See Picasso Museum
Museé Pompidou: See Pompidou Center
Musée Rodin: See Rodin Museum
Museum of Carriages (Vaux-le-Vicomte): 571
Museum of Erotic Art: 384–385
Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 605
Museum Pass: 23, 49–52, 64, 540
Museum of Wine: 67
Museums: advance tickets, 52; at night, 69, 493; by neighborhood, 15, 58–61; daily reminder, 20–21; evening hours, 493; for early birds, 69; Paris Museum Pass, 23, 49–52, 64; planning tips, 630–631; Carnavalet Museum, 95, 322; Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, 459–460; Fragonard Perfume Museum, 93; Galerie d’Anatomie Comparée et de Paléontologie, 459; Galerie des Enfants du Muséum, 459; Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, 459; Montmartre Museum, 102, 378–379; Museum of Wine, 67; National Maritime Museum, 66, 455. See also Army Museum; Art museums; And specific museums
Music: 489–493; event listings, 22, 488–489; jazz and blues, 489–490; opera, 492–493; at Versailles, 543–544. See also Cabaret; Concerts
Napoleon Bonaparte: 66, 81, 155–156, 257–258, 262, 264, 286, 300–301, 321, 475, 560–561, 572, 573, 617; biographical sketch, 241; Tomb, 54, 67–68, 238–242
Napoleon III: 88, 100, 112, 122, 171, 312, 366, 571, 617
Napoleon I Museum (Fontainebleau): 573
National Assembly: 314
National Maritime Museum: 66, 455
National Museum of the Middle Ages: See Cluny Museum
Near Eastern antiquities, in the Louvre: 159–166
Neighborhoods: 15–17; map, 16. See also specific neighborhoods
Neoclassicism, in the Louvre: 155–157
Newman, Barnett: 350
New Year’s Eve: 507
Nightlife: 488–503; after-dark tours, 496–503; budgeting, 6; event listings, 22, 488–489; floodlit taxi tour, 497–503; Marais, 437–438; Montmartre, 377, 380–381, 490–491; Rue Cler, 429. See also Cabaret; Music
Noah Window (Chartres Cathedral): 591
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Paris): 53, 86, 108–118; with children, 455; at Christmas, 506–507; facade, 110–112; general info, 53, 54; interior, 112–116; maps, 110, 114; at night, 494; side view, 116–118; sound-and-light shows, 106; tower climb, 103, 106; walking tour, 108–118
Notre-Dame de Chartres: See Chartres Cathedral
Notre-Dame-de-Lorette: 479, 481
Odéon Theater: 286, 495–496; eating near, 440–441, 444; sleeping near, 410–411
Olympia (Manet): 173
Opera: 492–493
Opéra area: 16, 87–94; map, 88
Opéra Exhibit (Orsay Museum): 174–175
Opéra Garnier: 16, 55, 88–92, 492–493; map, 91
Orangerie Museum: 61, 191–199; general info, 54, 61, 192; map, 196; self-guided tour, 192–199
Organized tours: See Tours
Orly Airport: 515–517; sleeping, 418
Orsay Museum: 60–61, 167–190, 265; eating, 169; general info, 54, 61, 167–169; maps, 171, 177, 184; self-guided tour, 169–190
Packing checklist: 684
Painter’s Studio, The (Courbet): 174
Palais de Justice: 129
Palais Garnier: 88–92
Palais Royal Courtyards: 59–60, 430
Panthéon: 55, 75–78; eating near, 444; map, 76; sleeping near, 411
Parc de la Villette: 459–460, 493
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont: 75
Parc Zoologique de Paris: 456
Paris Archaeological Crypt: 53, 56, 109
Paris by Mouth: 435
Paris Catacombs: 79–80
Paris Greeter: 40
Paris Historical Library: 322–323
Paris Museum Pass: 23, 49–52, 64, 540
Paris on Wheels: 45
Paris Perfect: 418
Paris Plages: 57, 134, 266, 677
Paris Sewer Tour: 63–65
Paris Webservices: 46–47, 388, 389, 392, 515
Paris Zoo: 456
Parking: 530
Parks and gardens: Champ de Mars, 262–263, 430, 454–455, 502; with children, 457–460; free Wi-Fi, 23–24; Jardin des Plantes, 75, 458–459; Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, 75; Parc Monceau, 74–75, 94; Promenade Plantée Park, 99. See also Giverny; Luxembourg Garden; Tuileries Garden; Versailles Gardens
Parler Parlor: 41
Parthenon Friezes: 144–145
Passage Choiseul: 487
Passage du Grand Cerf: 487
Passage Jouffroy: 487
Passage Panoramas: 487
Passage Ste. Anne: 487
Pâtisseries: 214, 308, 472, 478, 480, 485, 606, 644
Patrick Roger Chocolates: 474
Pedestrian safety: 23
Pedicab tours: 497
Père Lachaise Cemetery: 100, 268, 353–367; general info, 55, 100, 353–354; map, 356–357; walking tour, 354–367
Petit Palais: 81–82, 264, 310–311
Petit Trianon (Versailles): 563–564
Peugeot: 306
Philharmonie de Paris: 492
Phone numbers, useful: 675–676
Phones: 659–664
Piaf, Edith: 358–359, 377, 384, 681
Picasso, Pablo: 186, 197, 342–343, 379; and media, 336; Studio, 381–382; women of, 332–333. See also Picasso Museum
Picasso Museum: 95, 328–337; general info, 54, 95, 328–329; self-guided tour, 329–337
Pickpockets: 22, 27, 369, 623, 625
Picnics (picnicking): 452, 643–645; assembling, 643–645; best spots, 430; Ile St. Louis, 439–440; Marais, 437; Rue Cler, 430; to-go foods, 645; vocabulary, 643. See also Markets
Pink Panther (movie): 130
Pissarro, Camille: 182, 271, 310, 607
Place Blanche: 383–384
Place d’Aligre: market, 397, 486
Place d’Anvers: 370; market, 369, 413–414
Place Dauphine: 133; eating, 106, 133
Place de la Bastille: 267, 318–319; eating, 431, 434
Place de la Concorde: 312–313, 502; at night, 495
Place de la Madeleine: 93, 471–473; map, 472
Place de la Sorbonne: 123; eating, 444
Place de l’Opéra: 495; shopping, 475
Place des Abbesses: eating, 446–447
Place des Vosges: 321, 430, 438; eating, 430–431; sleeping near, 399, 402
Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: eating, 436
Place du Tertre: 376–378
Place du Trocadéro: 87, 224, 455, 502
Place Gambetta: 267–268
Place Louis Lépine: market, 130
Place Michel Debré: 477
Place Monge: market, 486
Place St. André-des-Arts: 123; eating, 106, 123
Place St. Germain-des-Prés: 286, 495–496
Place St. Michel: 123–124
Place Vauban: 502
Place Vendôme: 495; shopping, 93, 474–475
Poilâne: 477
Point Zero: 108–109
Poissonnerie: 205–206
Politics: 618–621
Pollock, Jackson: 349–350
Pompidou Center: 87, 99, 326–327, 338–352; with children, 456; general info, 55, 99, 338–340; picnicking, 430; self-guided tour, 340–352; sleeping near, 403
Pont au Double: 120
Pont de la Concorde: 314
Pont de la Tournelle: 119, 501
Pont de Notre-Dame: 503
Pont St. Louis: 119
Pont St. Michel: 124
Pop Art: 350–351
Population: 9
Porte de Clignancourt: 481–484; map, 482
Post-Impressionism: 183–186. See also specific artists
Post offices: 664; Marais, 397; Montmartre, 413; Rue Cler, 388
Promenade Plantée Park: 99–100
Proust, Marcel: 364–365
Puces de Vanves: 484
Puces St. Ouen Flea Market: 481–484; map, 482
Qatar Embassy: 305
Quai de l’Horloge: 133
Quartier Latin: See Latin Quarter
Raft of the Medusa (Géricault): 156–157
Rail stations: See Train stations
Raspail: market, 486–487
Rauschenberg, Robert: 350
Reader feedback: 11
Realism, at the Orsay: 172–174
Red-light district: See Pigalle
Reign of Terror: 132
Reims: guided tours, 46
Renault: 309
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: 181–182, 196–197, 231, 336, 378–379, 382
Rental apartments: 418–419, 637–640
RER (Réseau Express Régionale): 27–29; Auvers, 608; Beauvais Airport, 517; Chantilly, 575; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 512–514, 518; etiquette, 28–29; key words, 29; Orly Airport, 516–517, 518; pickpockets, 22, 27; tickets, 25–26, 28; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 568; Versailles, 538
Resources from Rick Steves: 671–673
Restaurants: ordering tips, 649; overview, 646, 648–650. See also Eating
Restrooms: 24
Rietveld, Gerrit: 346
Rilke, Rainer Maria: 230
Rimbaud, Arthur: 288
Riverboat rides: See Boat cruises
Robespierre, Maximilien de: 132, 286, 312, 615
Rodin, Auguste: 186–188; creative process of, 229. See also Rodin Museum
Rodin Museum: 68, 225–235; eating, 226; general info, 54–55, 68, 225–226; map, 226; self-guided tour, 227–235
Roger-Viollet: 281
Roissy-en-France: sleeping, 417–418
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 53, 56, 108–112, 145, 294–295, 301, 376, 614
Romanticism, in the Louvre: 156–158
Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées: 309
Room and board: See Sleeping
Rose Windows (Chartres Cathedral): 585–588
Rossini, Gioacchino: 366
Rouault, Georges: 348–349
Rouen: 603
Rousseau, Henri: 199
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques: 78
Royal Chapel (Versailles): 546–547
Royal Drive (Versailles): 554, 556
Rue Beautrellis: 320
Rue Cler: 54, 67, 200–211, 387–389, 392; eating, 422–429; maps, 201, 390–391, 424–425; markets, 203–204, 388–389, 484; musts for temporary residents, 393; nightlife, 429; picnics, 429, 430; services, 388–389, 392; sleeping, 392–396; transportation, 513; walking tour, 202–211
Rue Daguerre: 80, 485; market, 485
Rue de Birague: 320
Rue de Bretagne: sleeping, 403–404
Rue de Buci: 285, 496; eating, 440; market, 484
Rue de Furstenberg: 283–284, 285
Rue de Grenelle: eating, 426–428
Rue de l’Abbaye: 284–285
Rue de la Paix: 475
Rue de Lappe: 267; nightlife, 438
Rue de la Roquette: 267
Rue de Lutèce: 130
Rue des Canettes: 287
Rue des Changes (Chartres): 595
Rue des Ecouffes: 324–325
Rue de Seine: 281–283; market, 484
Rue de Sèvres: eating, 444; shopping, 475–477
Rue des Francs Bourgeois: 322
Rue des Grenets (Chartres): 595–596
Rue des Lombards: music, 490–491
Rue des Martyrs: 383; market, 484; shopping, 479–481
Rue des Rosiers: 323–325; eating, 436–437; nightlife, 438
Rue de Steinkerque: 370–371
Rue de Tilsitt: 305
Rue du Bac: 265
Rue du Petit-Pont: 121
Rue Férou: 288
Rue Galande: 120
Rue Guisarde: 287
Rue Jacob: 283
Rue la Boëtie: 309
Rue Montorgueil: market, 484–485
Rue Mouffetard: eating, 445; map, 412; market, 485; sleeping, 412–413
Rue Pavée: 322–323
Rue Royale: shopping, 474
Rue St. Antoine: 267, 319–320; eating, 436
Rue St. Dominique: 263–264; market, 389; sleeping, 395–396
Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie: 326
Rue St. Honoré: shopping, 474
Rue St. Séverin: 122
Rue St. Sulpice: shopping, 478
Rue Soufflot: eating, 444
Rue Vieille du Temple: 325, 326, 437–438
Sacré-Cœur: 55, 86–87, 101, 371–376; eating near, 445–446; map, 375
St. Aignan Church (Chartres): 596
Sainte-Chapelle: 56–57, 125–129; altar, 128–129; concerts, 107, 491–492; general info, 54, 57, 107; map, 126; stained glass, 125–128
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de: 283
St. Germain-des-Prés: 286–287; cafés, 286, 448–449; eating, 440; nightlife, 495; shopping, 478
St. Germain-des-Prés Church: 72, 286
St. Julien-le-Pauvre: 120
St. Louis Church: 239
St. Ouen Flea Market: 481–484; map, 482
St. Paul and St. Louis Church: 267
Saint-Phalle, Niki de: 326
St. Pierre Church (Chartres): 596
St. Pierre-de-Montmartre Church: 376–377
St. Séverin Church: 121–122
St. Sulpice Church: 72–73, 287–288; concerts, 72; eating near, 440; sleeping near, 409–410
San Francisco Book Company: 24, 408, 478
Satie, Erik: 378–379
Seasonal foods: 508
Seasons: 7–8; winter in Paris, 504–508
Segway Tours: 45
Seine River: 134, 501; beaches, 57, 266, 677; bouquinistes, 119–120, 266; concerts, 492; cruises, 39, 42, 447, 460–461, 493; eating in barges along, 106; picnicking, 430, 439–440; promenade, 66, 70, 458
Self-Portrait, Paris (Van Gogh): 185
Sephora: 308–309
Seurat, Georges: 364
Sewers of Paris: 63–65
Shakespeare and Company: 24, 120–121
Shopping: 465–487; arcaded streets (passages), 487; bouquinistes, 119–120, 266; boutique strolls, 470–481; budgeting, 6–7; Champs-Elysées, 306, 307, 308–309; at Christmas, 506; clothing sizes, 682; hours, 623; key phrases, 466; map, 468–469; tips on, 465–466; VAT refunds, 628–629. See also Department stores; Fashion; Markets
Shroud of Turin: 288
Sightseeing: 48–385; at a glance, 54–55; advance tickets, 52; Auvers, 610–612; best views, 86–87; budgeting, 6; bus #69 tour, 260–268; Chartres, 580–597; with children, 452–464; daily reminder, 20–21; for early birds, 69; free, 64–65; Giverny, 603–606; itineraries, 17–20; maps and navigation tools, 629–630; money-saving tips, 64–65; at night, 69; Paris Museum Pass, 23, 49–52, 64; planning tips, 630–631; Versailles, 544–564. See also specific sights
Signoret, Simone: 365
SIM cards: 662–663
Skating: See Ice skating; Rollerblading
Slaves (Michelangelo): 158–159
Sleeping: 386–420, 632–640; at the airports, 417–418; Auvers, 612–613; budgeting, 5–6; Chartres, 597–598; Disneyland Paris, 464; Fontainebleau, 574; Giverny, 606; Ile St. Louis, 404–405; key phrases, 635; Luxembourg Garden area, 405–413; Marais, 396–404; money-saving tips, 632–633; Montmartre, 413–417; online reviews, 637; reservations, 8, 638–639; Rue Cler, 387–396; Rue Mouffetard, 412–413; types of accommodations, 633–640; Versailles, 564–565
SNCF Boutiques: 526, 664–665; Luxembourg Garden area, 405, 408; Marais, 397; Rue Cler, 388
Sorbonne: 123
Source, The (Ingres): 170–171
Souvenir shops: 466–467
Square du Vert-Galant: 134, 430
Square Viviani: 120
Stained Glass Center, International (Chartres): 597
Stein, Gertrude: 121, 341, 355–357, 379, 382
Street safety: 23
Subway: See Métro
Surrealism: 347–348. See also Dalí, Salvador
Swimming pools: 461
Tabacs (tobacco stands): 24–25, 211, 388, 478, 480–481
Taxes: VAT refunds, 628–629
Taxis: 34–35; Auvers, 609; Beauvais Airport, 517; Chantilly, 575; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 514–515, 518; Chartres, 579; Giverny, 602; Luxembourg Garden area, 409; Marais, 398–399; Montmartre, 416; nighttime tour, 497–503; Orly Airport, 517, 518; Rue Cler area, 392; tipping, 627–628; Versailles, 538
Telephone numbers, useful: 675–676
Telephones: 659–664
Temperatures, average monthly: 682
Temple of Love (Versailles): 563
TGV trains: 10, 515, 665, 669; map, 666–667; to southern France, 527–528
Thanksgiving: 505
Théâtre du Vieux-Colombier: 477–478
Theft alerts: 22, 27, 369, 623
Thinker, The (Rodin): 233
Tignous (Bernard Verlhac): 359
Time zones: 623
Tinguely, Jean: 326
Tipping: 627–628
Toilets: 24
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier: 301
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de: 101, 175, 176–177, 379, 384; House, 383
Tour Eiffel: See Eiffel Tower
Tour guides: 11, 43–44; Chartres Cathedral, 582; tipping, 628
Tourist information: 20–22, 622–623; Auvers, 608–609; Chantilly, 575; Chartres, 579; Fontainebleau, 572; Giverny, 603
Tourist scams: 22–23
Tours: 36–47; by bike, 44; by bus, 36–38, 461, 497; Chartres, 582; excursions from Paris, 45–47; Giverny, 601; at night, 496–503; Rick Steves, 672; by Segway, 45; for students, 45; Versailles, 541. See also Boat cruises; Walking tours
Toy store: 283
Train stations: 519–527; map, 519
Train travel: 518–529, 664–670; general tips, 669–670; key phrases, 522–523; map, 666–667; pickpockets, 22, 27; reservations, 669; schedules, 665; strikes, 668; tickets, 665, 668–669, 670; Auvers, 608; Beauvais Airport, 517; Chantilly, 575; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 512–514; Chartres, 579; Disneyland Paris, 462–463; Fontainebleau, 572–573; Giverny, 601–602; Orly Airport, 516–517; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 568. See also Eurostar; RER; SNCF Boutiques; TGV trains
Transportation: 25–36, 509–531, 664–671; budgeting, 5; key phrases, 522–523; passes, 25–26; theft alert, 22, 27; Auvers, 608; Beauvais Airport, 517; Chantilly, 575–576; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 511–515; Chartres, 579; Disneyland Paris, 462–463, 515, 518; Fontainebleau, 572–573; Giverny, 601–603; Luxembourg Garden area, 408–409; Marais, 397–398; Montmartre, 369, 414–416; Orly Airport, 516–517; Puces St. Ouen, 482–483; Rue Cler, 392; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 568–569; Versailles, 538. See also Biking; Buses; Métro; RER; Taxis; Train stations
Travel smarts: 4–5
Travel tips: 623–624
Trianon Palaces (Versailles): 535, 558–561
Trip costs: 5–7
Trocadéro: 87, 224, 455, 502; at night, 494
Tuileries Garden: 265, 430; with children, 458
Uber: 31, 34, 496; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 514–515; nighttime tour, 497–503
Unicorn tapestries: 71, 296–297
Urinal (Duchamp): 347
Utrillo, Maurice: 199, 378, 379–380
Van Gogh, Vincent: 183–185, 607, 610, 612; biographical sketch, 609; grave (Auvers), 610–611; House, 383
Van Gogh’s Room at Arles (Van Gogh): 185
VAT refunds: 628–629
Vaux-le-Vicomte Château: 506, 568–571
Vedettes du Pont Neuf: 39
Vegetarians: 648
Venus de Milo: 142–143
Venus Room (Versailles): 549
Veronese, Paolo: 154–155, 547–548
Versailles: 535–566; with children, 456–457; eating, 541–542, 565–566; general info, 54; maps, 536–537, 565; planning tips, 538–539; sights/activities, 544–564; sleeping, 564–565; transportation, 538
Versailles Château: 535, 544–554; eating, 541–542; general info, 539–544; guided tours, 541; maps, 545, 547; self-guided tour, 544–554
Versailles Fountains: 542–544, 556
Versailles Gardens: 535, 554–558; general info, 539, 541–544; spectacles, 493, 542–545
Viaduc des Arts: 99–100
Victoire de Samothrace: 146
Victor Hugo (Rodin): 235
Views, best: 86–87
Vilebrequin: 478
Virgin and Child with St. Anne (da Vinci): 152
Visitor information: See Tourist information
Wagner, Richard: 283
Walking Man, The (Rodin): 187, 232
Walking tours: boutique strolls, 470–481; Champs-Elysées, 299–314; Chartres, 594–597; guided, 42–43; historic Paris, 103–135; Left Bank, 278–290; Marais, 315–327; Montmartre, 368–385; at night, 493–496; Père Lachaise Cemetery, 354–367; Rue Cler, 200–211
Walter-Guillaume Collection (Orangerie): 196–199
Warhol, Andy: 350–351
War Room (Versailles): 551–552
Water Lilies (Monet): 191, 192–194, 275–276
Water parks (swimming pools): 461
Weekend Student Adventures: 45
W.H. Smith: 24
Wheelchair tours: 45
Whistler, James Abbott McNeill: 60
WiCE (Women in Continuing Education): 41
Wi-Fi: 23–24, 450–451, 659–662
Wine and vineyards: 41, 436, 658; Beaujolais Nouveau, 505; Clos Montmartre Vineyard, 380; lingo, 656–657
Wine Bacchus: 204
Wine Museum: 67
Winged Victory of Samothrace: 146
Winter in Paris: 504–508
World War I: 302, 346, 618; Army Museum, 237, 242–246
World War II: 123, 302, 334–335, 377, 385, 618; Army Museum, 237, 246–255; Deportation Memorial, 56, 118; Holocaust Memorial, 98, 325–326
Zoologique de Paris: 456