Index

Aberdeen Evening Express 107

Ackerman’s Repository 85

Aesthetic Movement 103, 106

aglets 153

Alexandra, Princess 111

Amendralejo 131

Amis, Hardy 143

Anatomie of Abuses, The 24, 31, 32, 33, 44 see also Stubbes

‘Ape’s Laugh’ 30

armour 2, 17, 18, 22, 28, 29, 95, 108

arsenic 156

Ascot 77

Ashelford, Jane 35

Asquith, Cynthia 112

bag wig 59, 60

Baker, Josephine 129, 130

barleycorns 159

Bath Chronicle and Weekly Gazette 125

bents 21

Beau Monde, Le 85

Belle Assemblée, La 73, 85

Bertha collars 40

Bishop of Exeter 33

Bishop sleeve 111

boiler suit 138, 139

bombast 24

Book of Lismore 6

braguette 26

brais 1, 8

Brummel, Beau 73, 75, 77, 78

buckram 21, 26, 45

Bulwer, John 38, 47

bum roll 36

bum shop 69, 70

bustle 68, 102, 103, 106, 107, 108, 110, 148

button 8, 22, 77, 87

‘cart–wheel’ 35

Cassanova 64

Castlemaine, Lady 47

Catherine of Aragon 19, 35, 41

Cavalier 37, 41, 44, 47

Celts 2, 3

ceruse 33, 35, 155

Chanel 133

Charles I 41

Charles II 45, 47, 58, 64

Chaucer 8, 16

chemise 8, 31, 36, 37, 112

Chester Chronicle 96

Chester Courant 83

Churchill, Winston 129, 138

cincher 148, 149

cloche 125, 127, 130

cocaine tooth paste 156

codpiece 16, 17, 22, 26, 27, 28, 29

Conecte, Thomas 10, 12

Constantinople 38

copper 6, 107

cork rump 67–70

‘Corps pique’ 36

corset 22, 24, 31, 36, 37, 38, 44, 74, 81, 83, 87, 88, 97, 98, 99, 100, 102, 103, 106, 110, 112, 114, 115, 131, 146, 148

cotehardie 8, 9 see also Hell’s Windows

coupons 141, 142, 146

Covent Garden 65

Crimea 97

crinoline 67, 8897, 102, 106, 110, 131, 146, 148

‘crisis’ clothes 138

Cruikshank 72, 76, 94

cutpurse 66

Dalton, James 65

damask 13, 153, 154

dandy 77, 78

Darwin, Charles 110

‘Dead Spaniard’ 30

deadly nightshade 7, 156

Derby Mercury 67, 74

‘Devil in the Head’ 30

Dickens, Charles 107

Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue 69

Dietrich, Marlene 133, 137, 138

Dinghen Van Der Plasse, Mistress 312

Dior 146, 147, 148

divorce 69

‘divorce’ corset 115

doublet 16, 17, 18, 224, 37, 38, 401, 153

‘drum’ farthingale 19, 35

Duchess of Devonshire 56, 63

Dundee Courier 91, 108, 138

Dundee, Perth & Cupar Advertiser 88

Dundee Tram Co. 132

‘dying Monkey’ 30

Edward III 16

Edward IV 17

Elizabeth, Princess 138, 148

embroidery 6, 22, 143, 154

Emma, Lady Hamilton 85

Empire line 75, 78

‘English Monster’ (ruff) 32

Ernulf of Rochester 4

Essex Standard 93

Eton crop 125, 129, 130

eyebrow pencil 141

farthingale 19, 21, 33, 359, 67, 106 see also vardingale

femoralia 2

Flanders 10, 31

flapper 125, 130, 131, 150

foins 22, 153, 154

Foot Guards 59

French gowns 38

French Revolution 64, 74

galligaskin/gally-hose breeches 24

Gama, Vasco da 7, 13

gambeson 17

Gentleman’s Magazine 57

George III 60, 64, 67

‘Gigot’ 111

girdles 14, 22, 140, 148, 154

Gloriana 33, 38, 45

Gloucestershire Echo 141

Grays Inn Lane 65

Great Regency Shelf 81

Grecian bend 102

Gresswell, Mrs 124, 151

Gros, Pierre de 10

‘Growing Old Gracefully’ 158

Guardian, the 75

Hair Powder Act 64

Hampshire Chronicle 54

Hampstead 138

Harberton, Viscountess 103

harem pants 133

harlot 10

Harper’s Bazaar 146

Harper’s Weekly 98

Hartnell, Norman 143

hat pin 119

Hawkwood, Sir John 18

‘Hell’s Windows’ 9, 10

hennin 10, 11, 12

Henrietta Maria, Princess 41

Hepburn, Katharine 133

hobble skirt 119, 123

Honorius, Emperor 2

hoop 19, 21, 38, 658, 91, 935, 97, 102, 106

Hull Daily Mail 137

Hull Packet 83

Huntingdon, William 95

‘imbrauderer’s chair’ 37

‘impure waist’ 75

indigo 7, 13, 30

Ipswich Journal 50, 95

Kenelm Digby, Sir 50

kersey 21, 86

kirtles 29, 38, 154

‘Kiss Me Darling’ 30

lace 41, 43, 44, 57, 77, 95

Lady’s Magazine 55, 74, 85

Lady’s Monthly Museum 85

lawn 32, 40, 74, 85

Lily Elsie 118

linen 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 16, 17, 22, 64, 85, 89, 96

‘lion’s colour’ 29

Liverpool Daily Post 97

Liverpool Echo 110

London Magazine 62, 67, 68

London’s Morning Post 86

‘Looking Young’ 157

‘Love Longing’ 30

madder 5, 7

‘Make Do and Mend’ 143, 144, 146

Manchester Evening News 106

masks 446, 48, 61, 62

maxi-skirt 150

‘merry widow’ (dye colour) 30

Merry Widow hat 115, 118

Merville, Lord Humphrey 29

Metropolitan 100

mini-skirt 150

miniver 14

Mirror of the Graces, The 83

mono-bosom look 115

Montez, Madame Lola (Countess of Landsfeld) 83

Moore, Thomas 3

mordent 6, 7

Morning Herald 81

Morning Post 86, 86, 92, 95

‘Mortal Sin’ 30

‘motley’ 29

‘mouchete’ 49

muslin 13, 31, 80, 83, 85, 86, 90, 108

Napoleon 75

‘Natty Scratch’ 59

neck cloth 78

Newcastle Courant 62

Newgate Calendar 59

‘New Look’ 1468

New York Times 133

Nightingale, Florence 125, 130, 131, 150

Norfolk Chronicle 63

nylon 140, 141

obesity 157

Old Bailey 64

‘old medley’ 30

‘orange-tawney’ 29

Orderic Vitalis 3

Overbury, Sir Thomas 38

Pall Mall Gazette 106

Palmerston, Lord 77

‘pancake’ hat 106

pannier 67, 68

partlets 40, 154

peascod doublet 24

‘pease-Porrige Tawnie’ 30

Pepys, Samuel 45, 46, 47

petticoat 19, 21, 38, 57, 64, 67, 68, 74, 80, 81, 89, 901, 934, 96, 103, 112, 113, 146, 155

pickpocket 64, 65 see also cutpurse

Pictorial Review 129

Pig in a Poke 57

pigaches 16

plague 12, 16, 57, 83

‘plunket’ 30

‘pneumonia blouse’ 119

pocket 51, 647, 89, 95, 106, 128, 138, 140, 143, 144, 149

Poiret, Paul 123, 133

‘poking-sticks’ 31

pomatum 55, 57, 602

Pompadour, Madame de 51

Poulaine 16

prostitutes 13, 14, 16

Public Advertiser 65

‘puke’ 29

Punch 88, 89, 92, 93, 107, 111

Puritans 24, 32, 33, 44

Purity Brigade 119

puttees 2

Quant, Mary 150

quicksilver 34

Rabelais, François 28, 29

Raleigh, Sir Walter 25

Ramillies wig 59, 60

Rational Dress Society 103, 106

rationing 1424, 146, 148

Regency period 50, 70, 735, 77, 81, 85, 86, 133

Restoration 45, 58

reticule 65, 67

Rogers, Samuel (poet) 62

Romans 13

‘romper suit’ 138

rouge 34

Royal Cornwall Gazette 108

ruaman 6

ruff 19, 31, 32, 33, 38, 40

Ruscelli 34

‘S’ bend corset 102, 110, 114, 115

sable 14

‘sad new colour’ 29

safeguards (outer skirts) 38

St Bartholomew’s Fair 64

Salisbury and Winchester Journal 80

‘sallet’ helmet 10

Salvation Army 127

sarcanet 154

Satan’s Curse (or Satan’s Claw) 16

Schweitzer & Davidson 75

‘scratch face’ 30

‘sharper’ (pickpocket) 64

Shaw, George Bernard 131

‘sheep’s colour’ 29

shingle hair style 1279

shoplifting 95, 96

Shoreditch Observer 91

Sibthorpe, Robert 35

silk 14, 21, 40, 41, 45, 49, 51, 59, 74, 83, 86, 95, 96, 106, 112, 132, 140, 141, 143

‘siren suit’ 138, 140

‘slops’ 24

smallpox 34, 46

‘smoked Ox’ 30

smuggling 96, 97

Spectator, the 49, 51

Spencer jacket 86, 133

Spencer, Earl 86

Spurgin Women’s Suffrage Lecture 134

‘stay busks’ 152

stays 38, 55, 80, 81, 83, 110

Steele, Sir Richard 49

steeple headdress 10

Stewart, James 57, 58

stockings 6, 8, 18, 24, 65, 75, 77, 112, 132, 140, 141, 142

stomachers 38

Stubbes, Philip 24, 313, 44

Sunderland Daily Echo and Shipping Gazette 102

syphilis 26

taffeta 21, 49, 146

Tamworth Herald 127

tea gown 112, 116

thinness 157

Thompson, W. S. 90

tie wig 58

Times, The 26, 112, 125, 144

toga 2, 13

Tournure 103

Town and Country magazine 67

Treves, Dr Sir Frederick 88

trousers 1, 2, 77, 80, 133, 135, 13740, 1423, 146

tuke 21

tunic 2, 16, 17, 22, 83

Turner, Mrs Anne 40

urine 6, 7, 14, 18, 156

utility clothing 143

vair 14

vardingale 19, 41, 91

vendeuse 115

Venerable Bede 3

‘Victorian Etiquette’ 1589

Vindolanda Tablets 2

Walpole, Horace 138

‘waspie’ 148, 149

‘watchet’ 29, 30

Weekly Journal 59

Weekly Miscellany 69

Wellington, Duke of 77

Wells Journal 112

white lead 33, 34, 155

wig 55, 57, 5864, 69, 70

Wilde, Oscar 106

William of Malmesbury 4

wimple (whimple) 12, 13

woad 7, 13

wool 5, 6, 8, 13, 14, 16, 17, 21, 22, 38, 55

Worcestershire Chronicle 91

Worth, Charles Frederick 106