The Settings app is like the Control Panel in Windows or System Preferences on the Mac. It houses hundreds of settings for every aspect of the iPhone and its apps.
Almost everything in the list of Settings is a doorway to another screen, where you make the actual changes.
Settings has a search box at the top! You don’t need a photographic memory (or this chapter) to find which screen holds a certain setting you’re looking for.
In this book, you can read about the iPhone’s preference settings in the appropriate spots—wherever they’re relevant. And the Control Center, of course, is designed to eliminate trips into Settings.
But so you’ll have it all in one place, here’s an item-by-item walk-through of the Settings app and its structure in iOS 10.
The Settings app is many screens deep. You might “drill down” by tapping, for example, General, then Keyboard, and then Text Replacement. It’s a lot of tapping, a lot of navigation.
Fortunately, you have three kinds of shortcuts.
First, you can jump directly to a particular Settings screen—from within any app—using Siri (Chapter 6). You can say, for example, “Open Sound settings,” “Open Brightness settings,” “Open Notification settings,” “Open Wi-Fi settings,” and so on. Siri promptly takes you to the corresponding screen—no tapping required.
Second, you can jump directly to the four most frequently adjusted panels—Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, Cellular, and Battery—by hard-pressing the Settings app icon on the Home screen (6s and 7 models). The shortcut menu offers direct access to those panes.
Finally, on any model, you can swipe to go back. Once you’ve drilled down to, say, General→Keyboard→Text Replacement, you can “drill up” again by swiping across the screen to the right. (Start from the edge of the screen.)
As you’re probably aware, you’re not allowed to make cellphone calls on U.S. airplanes. According to legend (if not science), a cellphone’s radio can interfere with a plane’s navigation equipment.
But the iPhone does a lot more than make calls. Are you supposed to deprive yourself of all the music, videos, movies, and email that you could be using in flight, just because calling is forbidden?
Nope. Just turn on airplane mode by tapping the switch at the top of the Settings list (so the switch background turns green). The word Cellular dims there in Settings (you’ve turned off your cellular circuitry); but the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth switches are still available, though turned off—meaning that you’re now welcome to switch them back on, even in airplane mode.
Now it’s safe (and permitted) to use the iPhone in flight, even with Wi-Fi on, because its cellular features are turned off completely. You can’t make calls, but you can do anything else in the iPhone’s bag of tricks.
Turning airplane mode on and off is faster if you use the Control Center (Control Center) or Siri (“Turn on airplane mode”). Same for Wi-Fi, described next.
This item in Settings opens the Wi-Fi Networks screen, where you’ll find three useful controls:
Wi-Fi On/Off. If you don’t plan to use Wi-Fi, then turning it off gets you a lot more life out of each battery charge. Tap anywhere on this On/Off switch to change its status.
Choose a Network. Here’s a list of all nearby Wi-Fi networks that the iPhone can “see,” complete with a signal-strength indicator and a padlock icon if a password is required. An Other item lets you access Wi-Fi networks that are invisible and secret unless you know their names. See Wi-Fi Hotspots for details on using Wi-Fi with the iPhone.
Ask to Join Networks. If this option is on, then the iPhone is continuously sniffing around to find a Wi-Fi network. If it finds one you haven’t used before, a small dialog box invites you to hop onto it.
So why would you ever want to turn this feature off? To avoid getting bombarded with invitations to join Wi-Fi networks—which can happen in heavily populated areas—and to save battery power. (The phone will still hop onto hotspots it’s joined in the past, and you can still view a list of available hotspots by opening Settings→Wi-Fi.)
Here’s the on/off switch for the iPhone’s Bluetooth transmitter, which is required to communicate with a Bluetooth fitness band, earpiece, keyboard, or hands-free system in a car. When you turn the switch on, you’re offered the chance to pair the iPhone with other Bluetooth equipment; the paired gadgets are listed here for ease of connecting and disconnecting.
The Control Center (Control Center) has a Bluetooth button. It’s faster to use that than to visit Settings.
If you see this panel at all, you’re doubly lucky: First, you’re enjoying a trip overseas; second, you have a choice of cellphone carriers who have roaming agreements with AT&T, Verizon, T-Mobile, or Sprint. Tap your favorite and prepare to pay some serious roaming fees.
These days, not many cellphone plans let you use the Internet as much as you want; most have monthly limits. For example, your $50 a month might include 2 gigabytes of Internet data use.
Most of the settings on this screen are meant to help you control how much Internet data your phone uses.
Cellular Data. This is the on/off switch for Internet data. If you’re traveling overseas, you might want to turn this off to avoid racking up insanely high roaming charges. Your smartphone becomes a dumbphone, suitable for making calls but not for getting online. (You can still get online in Wi-Fi hotspots.)
Roaming. These controls can prevent staggering international roaming fees. Enable LTE lets you turn off LTE—just for voice calls, or for both voice and data—for situations when LTE costs extra.
Every now and then, you’ll be in some area where you can’t connect to the Internet even though you seem to have an LTE signal; forcing your phone to the 4G or 3G network often gives you at least some connection. Turning LTE off does just that.
On AT&T or T-Mobile, you can turn off Data Roaming (when you’re out of the country, you won’t get slapped with outrageous Internet fees). On Verizon and Sprint, once you tap Roaming, you have separate controls for Data Roaming and Voice Roaming. Turning off the last item, International CDMA, forces the phone to use only the more common GSM networks while roaming; sometimes you get better call and data quality that way, and you may save money.
Personal Hotspot. Here’s the setup and On/Off screen for Personal Hotspot (Personal Hotspot (Tethering)). Once you’ve turned it on, a new Personal Hotspot on/off switch appears on the main Settings screen, so you won’t have to dig this deep in the future.
Call Time. The statistics here break down how much time you’ve spent talking on the iPhone, both in the Current Period (that is, this billing month) and in the iPhone’s entire Lifetime. That’s right, folks: You now own a cellphone that keeps track of your minutes, to help you avoid exceeding the number you’ve signed up for (and therefore racking up 45-cent overage minutes).
Cellular Data Usage. The phone also tracks how much Internet data you’ve used this month, expressed in megabytes, including email messages and web page material. These are extremely important statistics, because your iPhone plan is probably capped at, for example, 2 gigabytes a month. If you exceed your monthly maximum, then you’re instantly charged $15 or $20 for another chunk of data. So keeping an eye on these statistics is a very good idea.
(The Current Period means so far this month; Current Period Roaming means overseas or in places where your cell company doesn’t have service.)
Now, your cellphone company is supposed to text you as you get closer and closer to your monthly limit, too, but you can check your Internet spending at any time.
Use cellular data for: This list offers individual on/off switches for every single Internet-using app on your phone. Each one is an item that could consume Internet data without your awareness. You can shut up the data hogs you really don’t feel like spending megabytes on.
Wi-Fi Assist. Thousands of iPhone fans know about the old Flaky Wi-Fi Trick. If the phone is struggling and struggling to load a web page or download an email message on a Wi-Fi network, it often helps to turn off Wi-Fi. The phone hops over to the cellular network, where it’s usually got a better connection.
That’s why Apple offers Wi-Fi Assist: a feature that’s supposed to do all that automatically. If the phone is having trouble with its Wi-Fi connection, it hops over to cellular data all by itself. (You’ll know when that’s happened because of the appearance of the cellular-network indicator on your status bar, like , or , instead of the Wi-Fi symbol.)
If you’re worried about this feature eating up your data allowance, you can, of course, turn Wi-Fi Assist off. Apple notes, however, that Wi-Fi Assist doesn’t kick in (a) when you’re data roaming, (b) for background apps (it helps only the app that’s in front), or (c) if large amounts of data would be consumed. For example, it doesn’t kick in for audio or video streaming or email attachments.
Reset Statistics resets the Call Time and Data Usage counters to zero.
Once you’ve turned this feature on (Personal Hotspot (Tethering)) in Cellular, this switch appears here, too—on the main Settings screen for your convenience.
This panel lists all the apps that think they have the right to nag for your attention. Flight-tracking programs alert you that there’s an hour before takeoff. Social-networking programs ping you when someone’s trying to reach you. Instant-messaging apps ding to let you know that you have a new message. It can add up to a lot of interruption.
On this panel, you can tailor, to an almost ridiculous degree, how you want to be nagged. See Notifications for a complete description.
The Control Center is written up in Control Center. There are two settings to change here. If you turn off Access on Lock Screen, then the Control Center isn’t available on the phone’s Lock screen. No passing prankster can change your phone’s settings without your password.
And if you turn off Access Within Apps, then you won’t land in the Control Center by accident when you’re playing some game that involves a lot of swiping.
This is one of iOS’s most brilliant and useful features. See Remind Me Later.
The General pages offer a huge, motley assortment of settings governing the behavior of the virtual keyboard, the Spotlight search feature, and about 6 trillion other things (facing page, left).
About. Here you can find out how many songs, videos, and photos your iPhone holds; how much storage your iPhone has; techie details like the iPhone’s software and firmware versions, serial number, model, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth addresses; and so on. (It’s kind of cool to see how many apps you’ve installed.)
At the very top, you can tap the phone’s name to rename it.
Software Update. When Apple releases a new software update for your iPhone, you can download it directly to the phone.
You’ll know when an update is waiting for you, because you’ll see a little number badge on the Settings icon, as well as on the word “General” in Settings. Tap it, and then tap Software Update, to see and install the update (facing page, right). (If no number badge is waiting, then tapping Software Update just shows you your current iOS version.)
Spotlight Search. Here you can turn off iOS’s Siri Suggestions screen (Siri App Suggestions). And you can control which kinds of things Spotlight finds when it searches your phone. Tap to turn off the kinds of data you don’t want it to search: Mail, Notes, Calendar, whatever.
Handoff. Handoff is for people who own both a Mac and an iPhone; it automatically passes half-finished documents between them when you come home, as described in Handoff. This is the on/off switch.
CarPlay. Certain car models come equipped with a technology called CarPlay, which displays a few of your iPhone’s icons—Phone, Music, Maps, Messages, Music, Podcasts, and Audiobooks—on the car’s dashboard touchscreen. The idea is to make them big and simple and limited to things you’ll need while you’re driving, to avoid distracting you. Here’s where you connect your phone to your CarPlay system and, if you like, rearrange the icons on the CarPlay screen.
Home Button appears only on the iPhone 7 models. The Home button on these phones, believe it or not, doesn’t actually move. It doesn’t actually click. Instead, a tiny speaker makes the button feel as though you’ve clicked it by producing a little twitch vibration. That helps with the iPhone 7’s water resistance, of course, but it also permits features like this one: You can actually specify how big the phony click feels, using the settings Apple calls 1, 2, or 3 (and then try it out, right on this screen).
Accessibility. These options are intended for people with visual, hearing, and motor impairments, but they might come in handy now and then for almost anyone. All these features are described in Chapter 8.
Storage & iCloud Usage. This screen is proof that the iPhone is an obsessive-compulsive. You find out here that it knows everything about you, your apps, and your iPhone activity.
The Storage section shows how much of your phone’s storage space is currently used and free. Tap Manage Storage to see a list of every single app on your iPhone, along with how much space it’s eating up. (Biggest apps are at the top.) Better yet, you can tap an app to see how much it and its associated documents consume—and, for apps you’ve installed yourself, there’s a Delete App button staring you in the face.
The idea, of course, is that if you’re running out of space on your iPhone, this display makes it incredibly easy to see what the space hogs are—and delete them.
The next section, iCloud, also reports on storage—but in this case, it shows you how much storage you’re using on your iCloud account. (Remember, you get 5 gigabytes free; after that, you have to pay.) If you tap Manage Storage, you get to see how much of that space is used up by which apps. iCloud Photo Library and Backups are usually among the biggest offenders.
Background App Refresh. The list that appears here identifies apps that try to access the Internet to update themselves, even when they’re in the background. Since such apps can drain your battery, you have the option here to block their background updating.
You can also turn off the master Background App Refresh switch. Now the only apps that can get online in the background are a standard limited suite (music playback and GPS, for example).
Restrictions. This means “parental controls.” (Apple called it “Restrictions” instead so as not to turn off potential corporate customers. Can’t you just hear it? “‘Parental controls?’ This thing is for consumers?!”) Complete details appear in Software Updates.
Date & Time. Here you can turn on 24-hour time, also known as military time, in which you see “1700” instead of “5:00 PM.” (You’ll see this change everywhere times appear, including at the top of the screen.)
Set Automatically refers to the iPhone’s built-in clock. If this item is turned on, then the iPhone finds out what time it is from an atomic clock out on the Internet. If not, then you have to set the clock yourself. (Turning this option off produces two more rows of controls: The Time Zone option becomes available, so you can specify your time zone, and a “number spinner” appears so you can set the clock.)
Keyboard. Here you can turn off some of the very best features of the iPhone’s virtual keyboard. (All these shortcuts are described in Chapter 4.)
It’s hard to imagine why you wouldn’t want any of these tools working for you and saving you time and keystrokes, but here you go: Keyboards lets you add keyboards suited to all the different languages you speak. Text Replacement is where you set up auto-expanding abbreviations for longer words and phrases you type often.
Auto-Capitalization is where the iPhone thoughtfully capitalizes the first letter of every new sentence for you. Auto-Correction is where the iPhone suggests spelling corrections as you type. Check Spelling, of course, refers to the pop-up spelling suggestions. Enable Caps Lock is the on/off switch for the Caps Lock feature, in which a fast double-tap on the Shift key turns on Caps Lock.
Predictive refers to QuickType, the row of three word candidates that appears above the keyboard when you’re typing. Character Preview is the little bubble that pops up, showing the letter, when you tap a key. The “.” Shortcut switch turns on or off the “type two spaces to make a period” shortcut for the ends of sentences, and Enable Dictation is the on/off switch for the ability to dictate text. (If you never use dictation, turning this switch off hides the button on the keyboard, giving the space bar more room to breathe.)
Language & Region. The iPhone: It’s not just for Americans anymore. The iPhone Language screen lets you choose a language for the iPhone’s menus and messages. Region Format controls how the iPhone displays dates, times, and numbers. (For example, in the U.S., Christmas is on 12/25; in Europe, it’s 25/12.) Calendar lets you choose which kind of calendar system you want to use: Gregorian (that is, “normal”), Japanese, or Buddhist.
Dictionary. Which dictionaries (which languages) should the phone use when looking up definitions and checking your spelling?
iTunes Wi-Fi Sync. You can sync your iPhone with a computer wirelessly, as long as the phone is plugged in and on Wi-Fi. Details are in Connecting the iPhone.
VPN. See Virtual Private Networking (VPN) for details on virtual private networking.
Profile (or Device Management). This item shows up only if your company issued you this phone. It shows what profile the system administrators have installed on it—the set of restrictions that govern what you’re allowed to change without the company’s permission.
Regulatory. A bunch of legal logos you don’t care about.
Reset. On the all-powerful Reset screen, you’ll find six ways to erase your phone.
Reset All Settings takes all the iPhone’s settings back to the way they were when it came from Apple. Your data, music, and videos remain in place, but the settings all go back to their factory settings.
Erase All Content and Settings is the one you want when you sell your iPhone, or when you’re captured by the enemy and want to make sure they will learn nothing from you or your phone.
This feature takes awhile to complete—and that’s a good thing. The iPhone doesn’t just delete your data; it also overwrites the newly erased memory with gibberish to make sure the bad guys can’t see any of your deleted info, even with special hacking tools.
Reset Network Settings makes the iPhone forget all the memorized Wi-Fi networks it currently autorecognizes.
Reset Keyboard Dictionary has to do with the iPhone’s autocorrection feature, which kicks in whenever you’re trying to input text. Ordinarily, every time you type something the iPhone doesn’t recognize—some name or foreign word, for example—and you don’t accept the iPhone’s suggestion, it adds the word you typed to its dictionary so it doesn’t bother you with a suggestion again the next time. If you think you’ve entered too many misspellings into it, you can delete from its little brain all the new “words” you’ve taught it.
Reset Home Screen Layout undoes any icon moving you’ve done on the Home screen. It also consolidates your Home screen icons, fitting them onto as few screens as possible.
Finally, Reset Location & Privacy refers to the “OK to use location services?” warning that appears whenever an iPhone program, like Maps or Camera, tries to figure out where you are. This button makes the iPhone forget all your responses to those permission boxes. In other words, you’ll be asked for permission all over again the next time you use each of those programs.
Ordinarily, the iPhone controls its own screen brightness. An ambient-light sensor hidden behind the glass at the top of the iPhone’s face samples the room brightness each time you wake the phone and adjusts the screen: brighter in bright rooms, dimmer in darker ones.
When you prefer more manual control, here’s what you can do:
Brightness slider. Drag the handle on this slider to control the screen brightness manually, keeping in mind that more brightness means shorter battery life.
If Auto-Brightness is turned on, then the changes you make here are relative to the iPhone’s self-chosen brightness. In other words, if you goose the brightness by 20 percent, then the screen will always be 20 percent brighter than the iPhone would have chosen for itself.
The Control Center (Control Center) gives you a much quicker road to the Brightness slider. And, of course, you can also tell Siri, “Make the screen brighter” (or “dimmer”). This version in Settings is just for old-timers.
Auto-Brightness On/Off. Tap anywhere on this switch to disable the ambient-light sensor completely. Now the brightness of the screen is under complete manual control.
Night Shift. Here’s the beating heart of Night Shift, the feature that’s supposed to pose less disruption to your sleepiness by dialing back blue colors in the screen near bedtime; see Note.
Yes, it’s much quicker to use the Control Center to turn Night Shift on or off. But here’s where you set up an automatic schedule for it—and adjust the color temperature (yellowness) of the screen when Night Shift kicks in.
Auto-Lock. As you may have noticed, the iPhone locks itself (goes to sleep) after a few minutes of inactivity on your part, to save battery power and prevent accidental screen taps in your pocket.
On the Auto-Lock screen, you can change the interval of inactivity before the auto-lock occurs (30 seconds, 1 minute, 2 minutes, and so on), or you can tap Never. In that case, the iPhone locks only when you click it to sleep.
Raise to Wake. This is the on/off switch for a new iOS 10 feature (available only on the iPhone SE, 6s, or 7). it makes the phone light up when you pick it up—no button-pressing required. The ramifications are huge, because the Lock screen now has many more functions than it did before. There’s a lot you can accomplish on the iPhone before you enter your password to unlock it; see Chapter 3.
Text Size. As you age, small type becomes harder to read. This universal text-size slider can boost the size of text in every app on your phone.
Technically, what you’re seeing is the front end for Apple’s Dynamic Type feature. And, even more technically, not all apps work with Dynamic Type. But most of the built-in Apple apps do—Contacts, Mail, Maps, Messages, Notes, Phone, Reminders, and Safari Reader—and other software companies will follow suit.
If the largest type setting here still isn’t big enough, you’re not out of luck. Hiding in the Accessibility panel described in How to De-Sparsify iOS 10’s Design, there’s an option called Larger Text. Tap it and then turn on Larger Accessibility Sizes to make the large end of the type-size scale twice as big. Now you can read your phone from the moon.
Bold Text. If the spindly fonts of iOS are a little too light for your reading tastes, you can flip this switch on (see How to De-Sparsify iOS 10’s Design).
Display Zoom. The iPhone 6, 6s, and 7 models have bigger screens than the iPhones that came before them. The question here is: How do you want to use that extra space? If you tap View and choose Standard, then icons and controls remain the size they always were; the bigger screen fits more on a page. If you choose Zoomed, then those elements appear slightly larger, for the benefit of people who don’t have bionic eyes.
Wallpaper can mean either the photo on the Lock screen (what you see when you wake the iPhone up), or the background picture on your Home screen. On this panel, you can change the image used for either one.
It shows miniatures of the two places you can install wallpaper—the Lock screen and the Home screen. Each shows what you’ve got installed there as wallpaper at the moment.
You can tap either screen miniature to open a Set screen, where you can adjust the current photo’s size and positioning.
When you tap Choose a New Wallpaper, you’re shown a list of photo sources you can use as backgrounds. At the top, you get three categories worth noticing.
Dynamic wallpapers look like soft-focus bubbles against solid backgrounds. Once you’ve installed the wallpaper, these bubbles actually move, rising and falling on your Lock screen or Home screen behind your icons. Yes, animated wallpaper has come to the iPhone.
Live wallpapers (iPhone 6s and 7), once installed as your Lock screen, behave like the Live Photos described in Live Photos (iPhone SE, 6s, and 7): When you press the screen hard, they play as 3-second movies. (It’s not immediately clear what that gains you.)
Note that live wallpapers play back only on the Lock screen (not the Home screen).
You can install your own Live Photos as Lock-screen backgrounds. They, too, will play their little 3-second loops when you hard-press the Lock screen.
Scroll down a little, and you’ll find your own photos, nestled in categories like All Photos, Favorites, Selfies, My Panoramas, and so on, as shown above at left.
All these pictures show up as thumbnail miniatures; tap one to see what it looks like at full size.
Once you’ve spotted a worthy wallpaper—in any of the flavors described already—tap it. You’re offered a choice of two installation methods: Still, which is what you’d expect, and Perspective, which means that the photo will shift slightly when you tilt the phone, as though it’s several inches under the glass. (If you’ve chosen a Live Photo, you’ll see a third choice, Live Photo, meaning that it will “play” when it’s on the Lock screen and you hard-press the glass.)
Finally, tap Set. Now the iPhone wants to know which of the two places you want to use this wallpaper; tap Set Lock Screen, Set Home Screen, or Set Both (if you want the same picture in both places).
Here’s a more traditional cellphone-settings screen: the place where you choose a ringtone sound for incoming calls.
Vibrate on Ring, Vibrate on Silent. Like any self-respecting cellphone, the iPhone has a Vibrate mode—a little shudder in your pocket that might get your attention when you can’t hear the ringing. There are two on/off controls for the vibration: one for when the phone is in Silent mode and one for when the ringer is on.
Ringer and Alerts. The slider here controls the volume of the phone’s ringing.
Of course, it’s usually faster to adjust the ring volume by pressing the up/down buttons on the left edge whenever you’re not on a call or playing music or a video. But if you find that your volume buttons are getting pressed accidentally in your pocket, you can also turn off Change with Buttons. Now you can adjust the volume only with this slider, here in Settings.
Sounds and Vibration Patterns. The iPhone is, of course, a cell-phone—and therefore it sometimes rings. The sound it makes when it rings is up to you; by tapping Ringtone, you can view the iPhone’s list of 25 built-in ringtones; 25 more ringtones from iOS versions past (tap Classic to see them); 27 “alert tones”; plus any you’ve added yourself. You can use any of them as a ringtone or an alert tone, no matter how it’s listed.
Tap a ring sound to hear it. After you’ve tapped one you like, confirm your choice by tapping Sounds to return to the Sounds (or Sounds & Haptics) screen.
Remember, you can choose a different ringtone for each listing in your phone book (Tip).
But why stop with a ringtone? The iPhone can make all kinds of other sounds to alert you: to the arrival of a voicemail, text, or email; to the sending of an email message, tweet, or Facebook post; to Calendar or Reminders alarms; to the arrival of AirDrop files; and so on.
This is a big deal—not just because you can express your individuality through your choice of ringtones, text tones, reminder tones, and so on, but also because you can distinguish your iPhone’s blips and bleeps from somebody else’s in the same family or workplace.
For each of these events, tap the light-gray text that identifies the current sound for that event (“Tri-tone” or “Ding,” for example). On the resulting screen, tap the different sound options to find one you like; then tap Sounds to return to the main screen.
On that Sounds screen, you can also turn on or off Lock Sounds (the sounds you get when you tap the Sleep switch) and the Keyboard Clicks that play when you type on the virtual keyboard.
If you have an iPhone 7, there’s one more switch at the very bottom: System Haptics. Haptics are the tiny, click-like vibrations that Apple has scattered throughout iOS to accentuate the animations that make the iPhone fun to use.
These little bumps mark the maximum positions for things like pinch zooming, sliders, and panels that slide onto the screen (Control Center, Spotlight search, Notification Center). You’ll also feel these clicks when you spin the “dials” that specify times and dates (in Calendar, Clock, and so on), when you turn a Settings switch on or off, when your icons start wiggling on the Home screen (The Home Screen), and when you send or receive iMessage screen effects like lasers and fireworks (The Finger-Sketch Pad).
Haptics are subtle but effective—but if you disagree, here’s where you turn them off.
Here’s the master on/off switch for Siri, and the on/off switch for the hands-free “Hey Siri” feature. Both are described in Chapter 6.
Also on this panel: a choice of languages; a choice of speaking voices (including both male and female voices—and a choice of accents, like American, British, or Australian); an option to have Siri’s responses read aloud only when you’re on a headset (so you don’t disturb those around you); and an option to choose your own Contacts card, so Siri knows, for example, where to go when you say, “Give me directions home.”
Here’s where you set up a password for your phone, or (if you have an iPhone 5s or later) where you teach the phone to recognize your fingerprints. Full details start in Fingerprint Security (Touch ID).
This panel offers these goodies:
Low Power Mode. See Battery Life Tips.
Battery Percentage. Instead of just a “filling-up-battery” fuel-gauge icon at the top of your screen, how would you like a digital percentage readout, too (“75%”)?
Battery Usage. Here’s the readout for all your apps, showing their battery appetite over the past day or week; see Calendar.
Usage, Standby. These stats show you how many hours and minutes of life you’ve gotten from your current battery charge. (Usage = you using the phone. Standby = phone asleep.)
By “privacy,” Apple means “the ability of apps and Apple to access your data.”
Many an app works better, or claims to, when it has access to your address book, calendar, photos, and so on. Generally, when you run such an app for the first time, it explicitly asks you for permission to access each kind of data. But here, on this panel, you have a central dashboard—and on/off switches—for each data type and the apps that want it.
Suppose, for example, that you tap Location Services. At the top of the next screen, you’ll find the master on/off switch for all Location Services. If you turn it off, then the iPhone can no longer determine where you are on a map, geotag your photos, find the closest ATM, tell your friends where you’re hanging out, and so on. Below this master switch, you’ll find these options:
Share My Location. Apple has designed plenty of ways for you to broadcast your phone’s location—and, by extension, your own. For example, Find My Friends, Messages, and Family Sharing all have features that let certain other people see (with your permission) where you are right now.
Here’s the on/off switch for the whole feature. If it’s off, nobody can find you right now. If Share My Location is on, then you can tap From to see every iPhone you’ve ever owned, so that you can specify which one should be transmitting its location (the one you’re carrying now). The Family section lists any members of your family with whom you’re sharing your location; similarly, the Friends list identifies anyone else who has permission to track you. These are handy reminders—and you can tap a name to reveal its Stop Sharing My Location button.
App Store, Calendar, Camera.... This screen goes on to list every single app that uses your location information, and it lets you turn off this feature on a by-app basis. You might want to do that for privacy’s sake—or you might want to do that to save battery power, since the location searches sap away a little juice every time.
Tap an app’s name to see when it wants access to your location. You might see Always, Never, or While Using the App (the app can’t use your location when it’s in the background). On the same screen, you may see a description of why the app thinks it needs your location. Why does the Calendar need it, for example? “To estimate travel times to events.”
The little icon indicates which apps have actually used your location data. If it’s gray, that app has checked your location in the past 24 hours; if it’s purple, it’s locating you right now; if it’s hollow, that app is using a geofence—it’s waiting for you to enter or leave a certain location, like home or work. The Reminders app uses the geofencing feature, for example.
System Services. Here are the on/off switches for the iPhone’s own features that use your location.
For example, there’s Cell Network Search (lets your phone tap into Apple’s database of cellular frequencies by location, which speeds up connections); Compass Calibration (lets the Compass app know where you are, so that it can accurately tell you which way is north); Location-Based Apple Ads (advertisements that Apple slaps at the bottom of certain apps—or, rather, their ability to self-customize based on your current location); Setting Time Zone (permits the iPhone to set its own clock when you arrive in a new time zone); and so on.
Under the Product Improvement heading, you also get Diagnostics and Usage (sends location information back to Apple, along with diagnostic information so that, for example, Apple can see where calls are being dropped); Popular Near Me (the section of the App Store that lists apps downloaded by people around your current spot); Routing & Traffic (sends anonymous speed/location data from your phone, which is how Maps knows where there are traffic tie-ups); and Improve Maps (sends Apple details of your driving, so it can improve its Maps database).
This list (on the main Privacy screen) identifies the kinds of data that your apps might wish to access; we’re going way beyond location here. For example, your apps might want to access your address book or your calendar.
Tap a category—Contacts, for example—to see a list of the apps that are merrily tapping into its data. And to see the on/off switch, which you can use to block that app’s access.
Similarly, new apps you download may sometimes want access to your Facebook and Twitter accounts. Lots of apps, for example, harness your Facebook account for the purpose of logging in or finding friends to play games with. Tap Twitter or Facebook to see which apps are using your account information.
Do you give Apple permission to collect information about how you’re using your phone and how well the phone is behaving each day? On this screen, you can choose Don’t Send or Automatically Send. If you tap Diagnostic & Usage Data, then you can see the actual data the phone intends to send. (Hint: It’s programmery gibberish.)
Share With App Developers gives the phone permission to send non-Apple app writers the details of any crashes you experience while using their apps, so that, presumably, they can get busy analyzing and fixing the bugs. Improve Activity and Improve Wheelchair Mode share your activity and (if you have an Apple Watch) wheelchair-motion data with Apple, for similar reasons. Deciding whether to share this data all boils down to where you land on the great paranoia-to-generosity scale.
The final Privacy option gives you a Limit Ad Tracking switch. Turning it on won’t affect how many ads you see within your apps—but it will prevent advertisers from delivering ads based on your interests. You’ll just get generic ads.
There’s a Reset Advertising Identifier button here, too. You may not realize that, behind the scenes, you have an Ad Identifier number. It’s “a non-permanent, non-personal device identifier” that advertisers can associate with you and your habits—the things you buy, the apps you use, and so on. That way, advertisers can insert ads into your apps that pertain to your interests—without ever knowing your name.
But suppose you’ve been getting a lot of ads that seem to mischaracterize your interests. Maybe you’re a shepherd, and you keep seeing ads for hyperviolent games. Or maybe you’re a nun, and you keep getting ads for marital aids.
In those cases, you might want to reset your Ad ID with this button, thus starting from scratch as a brand-new person about whom the advertisers know nothing.
Here’s where you enter your iCloud name and password—and where you find the on/off switches for the various kinds of data synchronization that iCloud can perform for you. Chapter 17 tells all.
If you’ve indulged in a few downloads (or a few hundred) from the App Store or iTunes music store, then you may well find some settings of use here. For example, when you tap your Apple ID at the top of the panel, you get these buttons:
View Apple ID. This takes you to the web, where you can look over your Apple account information, including credit card details.
Sign Out. Tap when, for example, a friend wants to use her own iTunes account to buy something on your iPhone. As a gift, maybe.
iForgot. If you’ve forgotten your Apple ID password, tap here. You’ll be offered a couple of different ways of establishing your identity—and you’ll be given the chance to make up a new password.
If you have an iCloud account, then a very convenient option is available to you: automatic downloads of music, apps, and ebooks you’ve bought on other iOS gadgets. For example, if you buy a new album on your iPad, then turning on Music here means that your iPhone will download the same album automatically next time it’s in a Wi-Fi hotspot.
Updates means that if you accept an updated version of an app on one of your other Apple gadgets, it will be auto-updated on this phone, too.
Those downloads are, however, big. They can eat up your cellphone’s monthly data allotment right quick and send you deep into Surcharge Land. That’s why the iPhone does that automatic downloading only when you’re in a Wi-Fi hotspot—unless you turn on Use Cellular Data. Hope you know what you’re doing.
This panel, available on the iPhone 6 and later, sets all the preferences for Apple Pay (Apple Pay). You see any credit cards you’ve enrolled, plus Add Credit or Debit Card to enroll another.
Double-Click Home Button is the on/off switch for one of the ways to use Apple Pay—the method by which you can prepare the phone for payment before approaching the wireless cashier terminal, as described in The Setup.
Allow Payments on Mac is the on/off switch for the option to use your iPhone’s fingerprint reader to approve purchases you make on the web using your Mac (an option on sites that offer Apple Pay online). Finally, Transaction Defaults sets up the card, address, email account, and phone number you prefer to use when buying stuff online.
Here you set up your email account information, specify how often you want the iPhone to check for new messages, how you want your Mail app to look, and more. (Yes, in iOS 10, Apple finally broke up the unwieldy Mail, Contacts, Calendars settings page into three separate ones.)
Your email accounts are listed here; this is also where you set up new ones. Chapter 15 covers most of the options here, but one important item is worth noting: Fetch New Data.
The beauty of “push” email is that new email appears on your phone immediately after it was sent. You get push email if you have, for example, a Yahoo Mail account, iCloud account (Chapter 17), or Microsoft Exchange account (Chapter 19).
Having an iPhone that’s updated with these critical life details in real time is amazingly useful, but there are several reasons why you might want to turn off the Push feature. You’ll save battery power, save money when you’re traveling abroad (where every “roaming” Internet use can run up your cellular bill), and avoid the constant “new mail” jingle when you’re trying to concentrate.
And what if you don’t have a push email service, or if you turn it off? In that case, your iPhone can still do a pretty decent job of keeping you up to date. It can check your email every 15 minutes, every half-hour, every hour, or only on command (Manually). That’s the decision you make in the Fetch New Data panel. (Keep in mind that more frequent checking means shorter battery life.)
The iPhone always checks email each time you open the Mail app, regardless of your setting here. If you have a push service like iCloud or Exchange, it also checks for changes to your schedule or address book each time you open Calendar or Contacts—again, no matter what your setting here.
Preview. It’s cool that the iPhone shows you the first few lines of text in every message. Here you can specify how many lines. More lines mean you can skim your inbound messages without having to open many of them; fewer lines mean more messages fit without scrolling.
Show To/Cc Label. If you turn this option on, then a tiny, light-gray logo appears next to many of the messages in your inbox. The logo indicates that this message was addressed directly to you; the logo means you were merely “copied” on a message primarily intended for someone else.
If there’s no logo at all, then the message is in some other category. Maybe it came from a mailing list, or it’s an email blast (a Bcc), or the message is from you, or it’s a bounced message.
Swipe Options. Which colorful insta-tap buttons would you like to appear when you swipe across a message in a list? See Read It for details.
Flag Style. You can flag messages to draw your own attention to them, either with the old-style flag icon—or, for visual spark, with an orange dot. Here’s where you choose.
Ask Before Deleting. Ordinarily, you can delete an open message quickly and easily, just by tapping the icon. But if you’d prefer to encounter an additional confirmation step before the message disappears, then turn this option on.
Load Remote Images. Spammers, the vile undercrust of lowlife society, have a trick. When they send you email that includes a picture, they don’t actually paste the picture into the message. Instead, they include a “bug”—a piece of code that instructs your email program to fetch the missing graphic from the Internet. Why? Because that gives the spammer the ability to track who has actually opened the junk mail, making those email addresses much more valuable for reselling to other spammers.
If you turn this option off, then the iPhone does not fetch “bug” image files at all. You’re not flagged as a sucker by the spammers. You’ll see empty squares in the email where the images ought to be. (Graphics sent by normal people and legitimate companies are generally pasted right into the email, so they’ll still show up just fine.)
Organize by Thread. This is the on/off switch for the feature that clumps related back-and-forths into individual items in your Mail inbox.
Most Recent Message on Top. In iOS 10, the messages in a conversation appear chronologically, oldest at the top. That’s a switch from previous versions, where the newest message would appear at the top—but Apple thinks it makes more sense the new way. (The latest message still appears when you click the thread’s name.) If you prefer the old way, then turn off this setting.
Complete Threads. What if, during a particular back-and-forth, you’ve filed away certain messages into other folders? Should they still show up in a conversation thread? They will, if this switch is on. (The moved messages are actually sitting in those other folders; they just appear here for your convenience.) Now your conversations seamlessly combine related messages from all mailboxes.
Always Bcc Myself. If this option is on, then you’ll get a secret copy of any message you send. Some people use this feature to make sure their computers have records of replies sent from the phone.
Mark Addresses. See the Tip in Apple Pay.
Increase Quote Level. Each time you reply to a reply, it gets indented more, so you and your correspondents can easily distinguish one reply from the next.
Signature. A signature is a bit of text that gets stamped at the bottom of your outgoing messages. Here’s where you can change yours.
Default Account. Your iPhone can manage an unlimited number of email accounts. Here you can tap the account you want to be your default—the one that’s used when you create a new message from another program, like a Safari link, or when you’re on the All Inboxes screen of Mail.
Contacts gets its own little set of options in Settings:
Sort Order, Display Order. How do you want the names in your Contacts list sorted—by first name or by last name?
Note that you can have them sorted one way but displayed another way. Also note that not all the combinations make sense.
Short Name. When this switch is on, the Mail app may fit more email addressees’ names into its narrow To box by shortening them. It may display “M. Mouse,” for example, or “Mickey,” or even “M.M.”—whatever you select here.
Prefer Nicknames is similar. It instructs Mail to display the nicknames for your friends (as determined in Contacts) instead of their real names.
My Info. Tap here to tell the phone which card in Contacts represents you. Knowing who you are is useful to the phone in a number of places—for example, it’s how Siri knows what you mean when you say, “Give me directions home.”
Default Account. Here again, the iPhone can manage multiple address books—from iCloud, Gmail, Yahoo, and so on. Tap the account you want new contacts to fall into, if you haven’t specified one in advance. (This item doesn’t appear unless you have multiple accounts.)
Contacts Found in Apps. The iPhone does some intelligent inspection of your email. It notices when you email the same group often, or when you use the same subject line often, and proposes filling in all the recipients’ addresses automatically the next time (Tip). It also examines your email in hopes of finding a matching phone number, so that Caller ID works better.
Of course, no person is looking through your email—but if these features give you the privacy heebie-jeebies, you can turn them off here.
Import SIM Contacts. If you came to the iPhone from another, lesser GSM phone, then your phone book may be stored on its little SIM card instead of in the phone itself. In that case, you don’t have to retype all those names and numbers to bring them into your iPhone. This button can do the job for you. (The results may not be pretty. For example, some phones store all address book data in CAPITAL LETTERS.)
Your iPhone’s calendar can be updated by remote control, wirelessly, through the air, either by your company (via Exchange, Chapter 19) or by somebody at home using your computer (via iCloud, Chapter 17).
Time Zone Override. Whenever you arrive in a new city, the iPhone actually learns (from the local cell towers) what time zone it’s in and changes its own clock automatically.
So here’s a mind-teaser. Suppose there’s a big meeting in California at 2 p.m. tomorrow—but you’re in New York right now. How should that event appear on your calendar? Should it appear as 2 p.m. (that is, its local time)? Or should it appear as 5 (your East Coast time)?
It’s not an idle question, because it also affects reminders and alarms.
Out of the box, Time Zone Override is turned off. The phone slides appointments around on your calendar as you travel to different time zones. If you’re in California, that 2 p.m. meeting appears at 2 p.m. When you return to New York, it says 5 p.m. Handy—but dangerous if you forget what you’ve done.
If you turn on the Override, though, the iPhone leaves all your appointments at the hours you record them—in the time zone you specify with the pop-up menu here. This option is great if you like to record events at the times you’ll be experiencing them; they’ll never slosh around as you travel. If you, a New Yorker, will travel to San Francisco next week for a 2 p.m. meeting, write it down as 2 p.m.; it will still say 2 p.m. when you land there.
Alternate Calendars. If you prefer to use the Chinese, Hebrew, or Islamic calendar system, go nuts here.
Week Numbers. This option makes Calendar display a little gray notation that identifies which week you’re in (out of the 52 this year). It might say, for example, “W42.” Because, you know, some people aren’t aware enough of time racing by.
Show Invitee Declines. You can invite someone to a meeting, as described in Note. If they click Decline (they can’t make it), maybe you don’t need your phone to alert you. In that case, turn this switch off.
Sync. If you’re like most people, you refer to your calendar more often to see what events are coming up than to see the ones you’ve already lived through. Ordinarily, therefore, the iPhone saves you some syncing time and storage space by updating only relatively recent events on your iPhone calendar. It doesn’t bother with events that are older than 2 weeks, or 6 months, or whatever you choose here. (Or you can turn on All Events if you want your entire life, past and future, synced each time—storage and wait time be damned.)
Default Alert Times. This is where you tell the iPhone how much warning you need in advance of birthdays and events you’ve put on your calendar. Tailor it to your level of absent-mindedness.
Start Week On. This option specifies which day of the week appears at the left edge of the screen in the calendar’s Day and Month views. For most people, that’s Sunday, or maybe Monday—but for all iOS cares, your week could start on a Thursday.
Default Calendar. This option lets you answer the question: “When I add a new appointment to my calendar on the iPhone, which calendar (category) should it belong to?” You can choose Home, Work, Kids, or whatever category you use most often.
Location Suggestions. You may have noticed that if you enter the location for a calendar appointment (Making an Appointment (Day or Month View)), iOS 10 now proposes a list of full street addresses that match what you’re typing. That’s to save you data entry, and also to calculate travel times. Here’s the on/off switch.
Events Found in Apps. As described in Snagging (or Sending) a Graphic, the iPhone mines your email for proposed calendar events. You can turn off that helpful feature here—if you’re weird.
Notes can sync with various online services: iCloud, Gmail, Yahoo, and so on. Tap Accounts here to specify which ones should show up in the Notes app; tap Default Account to indicate which account you use mainly—the one that should contain any new note.
And now that Notes comes with ready-to-use type styles like Title, Heading, and Body, you can also use the New Notes Start With option here to choose which of those is the first line when you create a new note. If you usually start with a title for your note “card,” then choose Title, for example.
Password is the command center for the new locked notes feature (Locking Notes). You can change your password here, or create an additional one—or allow your fingerprint to unlock your locked notes.
You can take photos right from within Notes. If you turn on Save Media to Photos, then you’ll also get a copy of those shots in your Photos app, just as though you’d taken them with the Camera app.
Finally: Most people use Notes with online accounts like iCloud, Gmail, Yahoo, and so on, so that their notes are always backed up and synced to their computers. But if you turn on On My iPhone here, then you’ll have another option: Creating notes that live only on your phone, and aren’t transmitted, synced, or backed up. Handy if you have deeply personal information, or you just don’t trust those online services.
Hey, it’s the preference settings for the Reminders app!
Accounts. The app can show you to-do lists from iCloud, Yahoo, Exchange, Gmail, and so on. Which of those accounts do you want to see?
Sync. How far back to you want Reminders to look when showing you reminders? At All of them? Or only those up to 6 months old? (Or 3 Months, 1 Month, or 2 Weeks?) It’s a question of storage and lifestyle.
Default List. Suppose you’ve created multiple Reminder lists (Groceries, Movies to Rent, To Do, and so on). When you create a new item—for example, by telling Siri, “Remind me to fix the sink”—which list should it go on? Here’s where you specify.
These settings have to do with your address book, call management, and other phone-related preferences.
My Number. Here’s where you can see your iPhone’s own phone number. You can even edit it, if necessary (just how it appears—you’re not actually changing your phone number).
Announce Calls. Cool—the iPhone can speak the name or number of whoever is calling you Here, you can turn that feature on or off, or specify that you want it to happen only when you’re using headphones or in the car.
Call Blocking & Identification. You can block certain people’s calls, texts, and FaceTime video calls.
This isn’t a telemarketer-blocking feature; you can block only people who are already in your Contacts. It’s really for blocking harassing ex-lovers, jerky siblings you’re not speaking to, and collection agencies. Tap Block Contact to view your Contacts list, where you can tap to choose the blockee. (You can also see and edit this list in the Messages and FaceTime panels of Settings.)
Wi-Fi Calling. This glorious option lets you place great-sounding calls even with a crummy cellular signal, as described in A Word About VoLTE.
Calls on Other Devices. Here’s the on/off switch for Continuity, the ability to make phone calls from your Mac (Mac as Speakerphone). In iOS 10, you can even specify which gadgets talk to your iPhone in this way.
Respond with Text. This feature is described in Ignore It—or Dump It to Voicemail; here’s where you can edit the canned “Can’t talk right now” text messages.
Call Forwarding, Call Waiting (AT&T and T-Mobile only). Here are the on/off switches for Call Forwarding and Call Waiting, which are described in Chapter 5.
Show My Caller ID (AT&T and T-Mobile only). If you don’t want your number to show up on the screen of the person you’re calling, then turn this off.
Change Voicemail Password. Yep, pretty much just what it says.
Dial Assist. When this option is turned on, and when you’re calling from another country, the iPhone automatically adds the proper country codes when dialing numbers in your contacts. Pretty handy, actually.
SIM PIN. Your SIM card stores all your account information. SIM cards are especially desirable abroad, because in most countries, you can pop yours into any old phone and have working service. If you’re worried about yours getting stolen or lost, turn this option on. You’ll be asked to enter a passcode.
Then, if some bad guy ever tries to put your SIM card into another phone, he’ll be asked for the passcode. Without the passcode, the card (and the phone) won’t make calls.
[Your carrier] Services. This choice opens up a cheat sheet of handy numeric codes that, when dialed, play the voice of a robot providing useful information about your cellphone account. For example, *225# lets you know the latest status of your bill, *646# lets you know how many airtime minutes you’ve used so far this month, and so on.
These options govern text messages (SMS) and iMessages, both of which are described in Chapter 7:
iMessage. This is the on/off switch for iMessages. If it’s off, then your phone never sends or receives these handy, free messages—only regular text messages.
Show Contact Photos. Do you want to see the tiny headshots of your conversation partners in the chat window?
Text Message Forwarding is the text-message element of Continuity; it’s described in Texting from the Mac. You get an on/off switch for each gadget that you might want to display your phone’s text messages.
Send Read Receipts. If this is on, then people who send you iMessages will know when you’ve seen them. They’ll see a tiny gray text notification beneath the iMessage bubble that contains their message. If you’re creeped out by them being able to know when you’re ignoring them, then turn this item off.
Send as SMS. If you try to send an iMessage to somebody when there’s no Internet service, what happens? If this item is on, then the message goes to that person as a regular text message, using your cell carrier’s network. If it’s off, then the message won’t go out at all.
Send & Receive. Here you can enter additional email addresses that people can use to send your phone iMessages.
This screen also offers a Start new conversations from item that lets you indicate what you want to appear on the other guy’s phone when you send a text: your phone number or email address.
MMS Messaging. This is the on/off switch for picture and video messages (as opposed to text-only ones).
Group Messaging, Show Subject Field, Character Count. These options are described starting in Tip.
Blocked. Here’s another way to build up a list of people you don’t want to hear from, as described in Note.
Keep Messages. You can specify how long you want Messages to retain a record of your exchanges: 30 days, a year, or forever.
Filter Unknown Senders. This new iOS 10 feature gives you a sliver of protection from bombardment by strangers. It prevents you from getting notifications of iMessages from anyone who’s not in Contacts. In fact, you’ll also see two tabs in Messages—one that lists chats for people you know (and regular non-Apple text messages), and the other labeled Unknown Senders.
Audio Messages. You can now shoot audio utterances to other people just as easily as you can type them. Under Expire, you can set them to autodelete after 2 minutes. Why? First, because audio files take up space on your phone. Second, because you may consider them spoken text messages—not recordings to preserve for future generations. This is also where you turn on Raise to Listen.
The audio-texting feature lets you send and receive audio messages without looking at the screen or touching it; see Sending Messages.
Low Quality Image Mode. New in iOS 10: this way to save a huge amount of cellular data when sending photos. See Bonus Settings in a Place You Didn’t Expect.
These options pertain to FaceTime, the video calling feature described in FaceTime Video Calls. Here, for example, is the on/off switch for the entire feature; a place to enter your Apple ID, so people can make FaceTime calls to you; and a place to enter email addresses and a phone number, which can also be used to reach you.
The Caller ID section lets you specify how you want to be identified when you place a call to somebody else: either as a phone number or an email address.
Finally, here yet again is the Blocked option—a third way to edit the list of people you don’t want to hear from.
The expanded Maps app has an expanded set of settings:
Preferred Transportation Type. Do you mainly drive, walk, or take public transport? By specifying here, you save yourself a tap every time you plot directions.
Driving & Navigation. Here’s where you tell Maps that you want your plotted courses to avoid Tolls or Highways; turn a Compass display on or off on the map; specify the Navigation Voice Volume; and direct playback of any spoken entertainment (like podcasts or audiobooks) to Pause whenever the Maps voice is giving you an instruction.
Transit. Which modes of public rides do you want Maps to show you when proposing routes? Bus, Subway, Commuter Rail, and/or Ferry?
Distances. Measured in miles or kilometers, sir/madam?
Map Labels. Would you like place names to appear in English—or in their native spellings?
Extensions. Now that Maps can incorporate other apps (see Extensions), which ones should it show you?
Show Parked Location. You wouldn’t turn off this cool new Maps feature, would you (Night Mode)?
Issue Reporting. When you report a problem with Maps’ still-buggy database of the world, may Apple technicians get back to you by email?
You wouldn’t think that something as simple as the Compass app would need a Settings page, but here it is: an on/off switch called Use True North. (True north is the “top” point of the Earth’s rotational axis. If you turn it off, then Compass uses magnetic north, the spot traditional compasses point to; it’s about 11 degrees away from true north).
Here’s everything you ever wanted to adjust in the web browser but didn’t know how to ask.
Search Engine. Your choice here determines who does your searching from the search bar: Google, Bing, Yahoo, or DuckDuckGo (a limited search service famous for its refusal to collect your data or track your searches).
Search Engine Suggestions. As you type into Safari’s search box, it tries to save you time in two ways. First, it sprouts a list of common search requests, based on what millions of other people have sought. This list changes with each letter you type. Second, Safari may autocomplete the address based on what you’ve typed so far, using suggestions from your History and bookmarks list. This switch shuts off those suggestions. (It’s here primarily for the benefit of privacy hounds, who object to the fact that their search queries are processed by Apple in order to show the suggestions.)
Safari Suggestions. Safari searches (Chapter 4) can find matches from the iTunes, iBooks, and App stores; from databases of local businesses, restaurants, and theaters; and from the web. Unless you turn this off.
Quick Website Search. You can search within a site (like Amazon or Reddit or Wikipedia) using only Safari’s regular search bar, as described in Quick Website Search. If, that is, this switch is on.
Preload Top Hit. As you type into the search box, Safari lists websites that match. The first one is the Top Hit—and if this switch is on, Safari secretly downloads that page while you’re still finishing your search. That way, if the Top Hit is the page you wanted, it appears almost instantly when you tap.
But here’s the thing: Safari downloads the Top Hit with every search—which uses up data. Which could cost you money.
Passwords, AutoFill. Safari’s AutoFill feature saves you tedious typing by filling in your passwords, name, address, and phone numbers on web forms automatically (just for the sites you want). It can even store your credit card information, which makes buying things online much easier and quicker.
The AutoFill screen lists the different kinds of data that Safari can autofill for you: your contact info, website account names, and passwords. (Open the Passwords page to see the complete list of the passwords it’s memorized; tap Edit to delete certain ones.) You can also see your credit cards. (Tap Saved Credit Cards to see or delete the memorized cards.)
Frequently Visited Sites. As you know from The Favorites Icons, when you have nothing open in Safari, it likes to offer a page full of icons representing sites you visit often. Turn off this switch if your privacy concerns outweigh the convenience of this feature.
Favorites. As described in The Favorites Icons, your Favorites in Safari are just ordinary bookmarks in an extraordinary folder. Here you can choose a different folder as the home of your Favorites.
Open Links. When you tap a link with your finger, should the new page open in front of the current page—or behind it? Answer here.
Show Tab Bar. A row of tab buttons appears in landscape orientation (Plus models only).
Block Pop-ups. In general, you want this turned on. You really don’t want pop-up ad windows ruining your surfing session. Now and again, though, pop-up windows are actually useful. When you’re buying concert tickets, for example, a pop-up window might show the location of the seats. In that situation, you can turn this option off.
Do Not Track. If you turn this on, then websites agree not to secretly track your activity on the web. The problem is, of course, that this program is voluntary—and the sleazy operators just ignore it.
Block Cookies. You can learn all about cookies—and these options to tame them—in Cookies.
Fraudulent Website Warning. This option makes Safari warn you when you try to visit what it knows to be a phishing site. (Phishing is a common Internet scam. The bad guy builds a fake version of Amazon, PayPal, or a bank’s website—and tries to trick you into “logging in.” You therefore unwittingly give up your name and password.)
Check for Apple Pay. Some websites let you buy stuff with a quick touch of your fingerprint (Apple Pay)—but only if you let them offer you those controls by leaving this on.
Clear History and Website data. Like any web browser, Safari keeps a list of websites you’ve visited recently to make it easier for you to visit them again: the History list. And like any browser, Safari therefore exposes your activities to any suspicious spouse or crackpot colleague. If you’re nervous about that prospect, then tap Clear History to erase your tracks. This feature deletes all the cookies that websites have deposited on your “hard drive.”
Use Cellular Data. The Reading List feature (The Reading List) is wonderful. But because it downloads entire web pages to your phone—and then syncs them to all your other Apple gadgets—it uses a lot of data. If you fear going over your cellphone plan’s monthly data allotment, then turn this off. You’ll be allowed to save sites to your Reading List only when in a Wi-Fi hotspot.
Advanced. Safari recognizes HTML5, a web technology that lets websites store data on your phone, for accessing even when you’re not online (like your Gmail stash). In Website Data, you can see which web apps have created these databases on your phone and delete them if necessary.
JavaScript is a programming language whose bits of code frequently liven up web pages. If you suspect some bit of code is choking Safari, though, you can turn off its ability to decode JavaScript here.
The Web Inspector is for website programmers. You connect your phone to a Mac with a USB cable; then, in Safari on the computer, you choose Debug→iPhone→[the name of the website currently on the iPhone’s screen]. You’ll be able to examine errors, warnings, tips, and logs for HTML, Java-Script, and CSS—great when you’re designing and debugging web pages or web apps for the iPhone.
Extensions describes the News app. Here’s where you indicate whether it’s allowed to tailor your news to your Location, whether it can bug you with Notifications about news stories, whether it’s allowed to fetch news in the Background (at some cost to battery life), and whether it can fetch new news over the Cellular Data network (at some cost to your data allowance).
And you can turn off the Story Previews (where the first couple of lines of each news story appear right in the app).
What you see here depends on whether you’ve subscribed to the $10-a-month Apple Music service (Chapter 9).
Show Apple Music. When this is off, the new tabs (For You and New) disappear from the Music app. Which makes sense if you’re not a subscriber, since they’re doing you no good.
Genius. This control doesn’t actually do anything, since as of iOS 10.2, the old Genius song-suggestion feature no longer exists. Oopsie!
iCloud Music Library (which appears only if you use Apple Music) is described in The Library Tab.
Show Star Ratings. Turn this on if you’d like to rate the songs in your music collection from one to five stars. Note that this option doesn’t appear until you’ve rated at least one song, either by clicking in iTunes (on your computer) or by telling Siri, “Rate this song five stars” (for example) while one of your songs is playing.
Cellular Data lets you guard against having your streaming music eat up your monthly cellular data allowance. If it’s off, then you can download and play back music only over Wi-Fi.
Downloaded Music lets you see how much of your storage space is devoted to songs you’ve acquired.
Optimize Storage shows up only if you’re an Apple Music subscriber and you’ve turned on iCloud Music Library. As you download more songs from Apple Music, if your phone becomes full, this feature deletes the downloaded songs that you’ve played the least. (The Minimum Storage indicates how much music you get to keep before the autodeleting begins.) Of course, you’re always welcome to listen to them over the Internet, or download them again.
EQ, Volume Limit, Sound Check. See Switching Among Speakers.
Home Sharing. Conveniently enough, you can access your iTunes music collection, upstairs on your computer, right from your iPhone, over your home Wi-Fi network. Or at least you can if both machines are signed into the same Apple ID. Here’s where you enter the Apple ID that matches your iTunes setup.
This is what you can adjust for the new TV app:
Use Cellular Data for Playback. A safeguard against eating up your cellular data with videos. Leave off to stream videos only over Wi-Fi.
Playback Quality. When you’re watching videos over Wi-Fi, do you want the best possible picture, even if that uses up more data? (Yes, some people also have to worry about how much Wi-Fi data they use every month.) You get the same choices for cellular data.
Purchases and Rentals. When you’re on the road and want to buy or rent a video from Apple, do you want it in High Definition or Standard? (High Definition looks better but takes forever to download.)
Home Sharing. You can also access your video collection in iTunes on your computer, as described a few paragraphs ago. Same deal here.
Here’s a motley collection of photo-related settings:
iCloud Photo Library. See iCloud Photo Library.
Optimize iPhone Storage, Download and Keep Originals. See More.
Upload to My Photo Stream. Every picture you take will be sent to all your Apple gadgets (see More).
Upload Burst Photos. Recent iPhones can snap 10 photos a second when you hold your finger down on the shutter button. That’s a lot of photos, which can fill up your iCloud storage fast. So Apple gives you the option to exclude them from the uploads.
iCloud Photo Sharing is covered in iCloud Photo Sharing.
Summarize Photos. In the Photos app, the Years and Collections screens generally display one tiny thumbnail for every single photo. This feature makes those displays more manageable by displaying fewer, but representative, thumbnails. (You won’t see any difference unless you have a pretty huge collection of photos.)
Show Holiday Events. You know the new Memories feature (The Memories Tab)? It can create auto-slideshows based on the holidays in your country, if you want. If you’d just as soon not be reminded of these stressful times, then turn this off.
Preserve Settings. New in iOS 10: The Camera app can remember the last mode you selected when you last used it—Video, Photo, Panorama, or whatever—instead of always starting with Photo.
It can also remember the last Photo Filter you used (The Self-Timer) and whether or not you had Live Photo turned on (Live Photos (iPhone SE, 6s, and 7)).
Grid turns the “Rule of Thirds” grid (the tic-tac-toe lines) on or off on the camera’s viewfinder screen.
Record Video. This option, exclusive to the iPhone 6 and later, controls the frame rate and quality of the video you shoot. The first number in each option (like 720p, 1080p, or 4K) controls the resolution of the video (how many pixels make up each frame—and how correspondingly huge the video files are). The second, fps, controls the frames per second. Normal TV video is about 30 fps, so choosing 60 fps creates bigger files but smoother playback.
A weird additional option appears here if you have an iPhone 7 Plus: Lock Camera Lens. The 7 Plus, of course, has two lenses (The iPhone 7 Plus: True Zoom). Under certain lighting conditions, if you zoom while recording video, a little video hiccup results as the phone switches from one lens to the other. If you turn on this option, then you’ll get no such glitch, because the phone will use only one lens the whole time. (You can still zoom—but it’s a digital, fake zoom, and the image will slightly degrade as you do so.)
Portrait Mode: Keep Normal Photo. See here for this iPhone 7 Plus option.
HDR: Keep Normal Photo. See the Tip in Taking the Shot.
Why, it’s every setting imaginable that pertains to the iBooks ebook reading app. They’re all described starting in iBooks Settings.
These settings affect the Podcasts app described in Podcasts. They govern how often the app auto-downloads new episodes, and how many; whether it can do so using cellular data (or only Wi-Fi); and whether you want the app to autodelete podcasts you’ve already heard.
For millions of people, the iPhone isn’t a phone—it’s a mobile game console. In fact, until iOS 10 came along, there was even an app called Game Center. It was a way to compare scores with friends and challenge buddies to games. In iOS 10, the Game Center app is gone; now you’re supposed to invite players and see your place on leaderboards right inside each individual game app.
There’s still this Game Center page in Settings, though. Once you’ve logged into it with your Apple ID, you can allow Nearby Players to invite you to multiplayer games wirelessly, and you can create or edit your Game Center Profile (your player name). And when you get good and fed up, you can Remove all Game Center Friends—the nuclear option.
These pages let you enter your name and password just once, in this one place, for each of these popular web services—so that the iPhone and its apps can freely access those accounts without having to bother you.
Each of these panels also offers an Install button (previous page, left), making it quick and easy to download the official Twitter, Facebook, Flickr, and Vimeo apps.
The Twitter and Facebook options offer some additional choices:
Twitter. The Update Contacts button adds your friends’ Twitter account names to their cards in Contacts, saving you that tedious data entry.
Facebook. Tapping Settings summons some options that, by now, should be familiar: You can give it permission to know your location when you post to Facebook; you can tell the phone how to alert you when new Facebook posts arrive (Notifications); you can limit the app’s updating itself in the background; and you can prevent it from using Cellular Data. You can also limit Facebook video recordings to standard definition, to avoid massive data charges.
The Allow These Apps items let you control which built-in apps can access your Facebook account; for example, turn off Calendar if you don’t want to see your Facebook friends’ birthdays on your calendar.
Finally, Update All Contacts is the powerful button that adds photos and Facebook account names to the corresponding friends’ cards in your Contacts app, as described in this section.
As noted in The TV App, the new TV app is designed to let you watch all the shows you’re paying your cable or satellite company for—on your phone. At the outset, alas, very few major cable companies are playing ball with Apple. You can sign in here if you have an account from DirecTV, Dish, or a few obscure cable companies. But if you have, say, Comcast, Time Warner, or another big one, you’re probably out of luck.
At the bottom of the Settings screen, you see a list of apps that have installed settings screens of their own (previous page, right). For example, here’s where you can edit your screen name and password for the AIM chat program, change how many days’ worth of news you want the NY Times Reader to display, and so on. Each one offers an assortment of changeable preference options.
It can get to be a very long list.