Whether you’re sailing into a colourful harbour, listening to the pounding surf on a sun-drenched deck, or flying over azure waters in a propeller-driven plane, you'll be filled with a sense of adventure. In Greece, getting there is half the fun and island hopping remains an essential part of the experience.
Delos A stunning archaeological site.
Karpathos Experience Olymbos' Dorian-based culture.
Patmos See the cave where St John wrote the Book of Revelations.
Naxos Roam around the Venetian Old Town.
Crete Explore the Minoan palace of Knossos.
Santorini Watch gorgeous sunsets.
Hydra Escape from Athens.
Crete Medieval cities and mountain villages.
Corfu Venetian and French architecture.
Santorini Taste-test local beer.
Ikaria Have your fill of fresh lobster.
Crete Savour herb-rich Cretan specialities.
Samos Sample the famous sweet wine.
Nisyros Explore inside the volcano.
Kefallonia Kayak to a remote cove or beach.
Lesvos Hike in a 20-million-year-old petrified forest.
Kos Ride bikes to long stretches of sand.
While the local laissez-faire attitude is worth emulating while island hopping, a little bit of planning can take you a long way. Deciding where and when you want to go and getting your head around routes and schedules before you go will take the work out of your holiday.
Travelling in Greece is that much more enjoyable when you have room to be flexible with your itinerary. Transportation schedules are always vulnerable to change, even after you've booked and paid for your ticket. Everything from windy weather to striking workers mean planes and boats are regularly subject to delays and cancellations at short notice. Ferry and airline timetables change from year to year and season to season, with ferry companies often 'winning' contracts to operate different routes annually. When island hopping, it’s important to remember that no timetable is watertight.
ALots of ferries and transport links but book ahead.
AWater temperature is warm enough for swimming.
AThe meltemi (dry northerly wind) blows south across the Aegean, sometimes playing havoc with ferry schedules.
ATransport is less frequent but still connects most destinations.
AWater temperature can be chilly.
AThe best time for sea-life spotting begins in May and runs through to September.
APlanning ahead is essential as transportation can be limited.
ASwimming in the sea is only for those immune to cold water.
AMost businesses offering water sports are closed for the winter.
Even those with the sturdiest stomachs can feel seasick when a boat hits rough weather. Here are a few tips to calm your tummy.
AGaze at the horizon, not the sea. Don’t read or stare at objects that your mind will assume are stable.
ADrink plenty and eat lightly. Many people claim ginger biscuits and ginger tea settle the stomach.
ADon’t use binoculars.
AIf possible stay in the fresh air – don’t go below deck and avoid hydrofoils where you are trapped indoors.
ATry to keep your mind occupied.
AIf you know you’re prone to seasickness, consider investing in acupressure wristbands before you leave.
With a network covering every inhabited island, the Greek ferry system is vast and varied. The slow rust buckets that used to ply the seas are nearly a thing of the past. You’ll still find slow boats, but high-speed ferries are increasingly common and cover most of the popular routes. Local ferries, excursion boats and tiny, private fishing boats called caïques often connect neighbouring islands and islets. You’ll also find water taxis that will take you to isolated beaches and coves. At the other end of the spectrum, hydrofoils and catamarans can drastically reduce travel time. Hydrofoils have seen their heyday but continue to link some of the more remote islands and island groups. Catamarans have taken to the sea in a big way, offering more comfort and coping better with poor weather conditions.
For long-haul ferry travel, it's still possible to board one of the slow boats chugging between the islands and to curl up on deck in your sleeping bag to save a night’s accommodation. Nevertheless, Greece’s domestic ferry scene has undergone a radical transformation in the past decade and these days you can also travel in serious comfort and at a decent speed. Of course, the trade-off is that long-haul sea travel can be quite expensive. A bed for the night in a cabin from Piraeus to Rhodes can be more expensive than a discounted airline ticket.
As ferries are prone to delays and cancellations, for short trips it's often best not to purchase a ticket until it has been confirmed that the ferry is leaving. During high season, or if you need to reserve a car space, you should book in advance. High-speed boats such as catamarans tend to sell out long before the slow chuggers. For overnight ferries it's always best to book in advance, particularly if you want a cabin or particular type of accommodation. If a service is cancelled you can usually transfer your ticket to the next available service with that company.
Many ferry companies have online booking services or you can purchase tickets from their local offices and most travel agents in Greece. Agencies selling tickets line the waterfront of most ports, but rarely is there one that sells tickets for every boat, and often an agency is reluctant to give you information about a boat they do not sell tickets for. Most have timetables displayed outside; check these for the next departing boat or ask the limenarhio (port police).
Ferry prices are determined by the distance of the destination from the port of origin, and the type of boat. The small differences in price you may find at ticket agencies are the results of some agencies sacrificing part of their designated commission to qualify as a 'discount service'. (The discount is seldom more than €0.50.)
High-speed ferries and hydrofoils cost about 20% more than traditional ferries, while catamarans are often 30% to 100% more expensive than their slower counterparts. Caïques and water taxis are usually very reasonable, while excursion boats can be pricey but useful if you’re trying to reach out-of-the-way islands. Children under five years of age travel for free while those aged between five and 10 are usually half price.
On smaller boats, hydrofoils and catamarans, there is only one type of ticket available and these days, even on larger vessels, classes are largely a thing of the past. The public spaces on the more modern ferries are generally open to all. What does differ is the level of accommodation that you can purchase for overnight boats.
A 'deck-class' ticket typically gives you access to the deck and interior, but no overnight accommodation. Aeroplane-type seats give you a reserved, reclining seat in which you will hope to sleep. Then come various shades of cabin accommodation: four-berth, three-berth or two-berth interior cabins are cheaper than their equivalent outside cabins with a porthole. On most boats, cabins are very comfortable, resembling a small hotel room with private bathroom.
Unless you state otherwise, you will automatically be given deck class when purchasing a ticket. Prices quoted are for deck-class tickets, unless otherwise indicated.
While almost all islands are served by car ferries, they are expensive and, to ensure boarding, you’ll generally need to secure tickets in advance. A more flexible way to travel is to board as a foot passenger and hire a car on each island. Hiring a car for a day or two is relatively cheap and possible on virtually all islands.
The comprehensive weekly list of departures from Piraeus put out by the EOT (known abroad as the GNTO, the Greek National Tourist Organisation) in Athens is as accurate as possible. While on the islands, the people with the most up-to-date ferry information are the local limenarhio (port police), whose offices are usually on or near the quayside.
You’ll find lots of information about ferry services on the internet and many of the larger ferry companies have their own websites. Always check online schedules, or with operators or travel agencies for up-to-the-minute information.
A few very useful websites:
ADanae Travel (www.danae.gr) A good site for booking boat tickets.
AGreek Travel Pages (www.gtp.gr) Has a useful search program and links for ferries.
AGreekferries (www.greekferries.gr) Allows you to search ferry schedules from countless providers, including accommodation options and multileg journeys.
AOpen Seas (www.openseas.gr) A reliable search engine for ferry routes and schedules.
Island Finder
Island | Food | Family Friendly | Off the Beaten Track | Nightlife | Beaches | Culture | Activities | Easy Access |
Aegina | x | x | ||||||
Alonnisos | x | x | x | |||||
Amorgos | x | x | x | |||||
Andros | x | x | x | x | ||||
Chios | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Corfu | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Crete | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Evia | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Fourni Islands | x | x | x | |||||
Hydra | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Ios | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Kalymnos | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Karpathos | x | x | x | |||||
Kefallonia | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Kos | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Lefkada | x | x | x | x | ||||
Leros | x | x | x | x | ||||
Lesvos | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Milos | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Mykonos | x | x | x | |||||
Naxos | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | |
Paros | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Patmos | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Paxi | x | x | x | x | ||||
Rhodes | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Samos | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Samothraki | x | x | x | x | ||||
Santorini | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||
Sifnos | x | x | x | |||||
Skiathos | x | x | x | x | ||||
Skopelos | x | x | x | x | ||||
Skyros | x | x | x | x | ||||
Small Cyclades | x | x | ||||||
Symi | x | x | ||||||
Thasos | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Zakynthos | x | x | x |
A flight can save you hours at sea and offers extraordinary views across the island groups. Flights between the islands tend to be short and aeroplanes small, often making for a bumpy ride. The vast majority of domestic flights are handled by the merged Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines, offering regular domestic services and competitive rates. In addition to these national airlines, there are a number of smaller outfits running seaplanes or complementing the most popular routes.
The easiest way to book tickets is online, via the carriers themselves. You can also purchase flight tickets at most travel agencies in Greece. Olympic Air has offices in the towns that flights depart from, as well as in other major towns. There are discounts for return tickets when travelling midweek (Monday to Thursday), and bigger discounts for trips that include a Saturday night away. You’ll find full details and information on timetables on the airlines' websites.
Up-to-date information on flight timetables is best found online. Airlines often have local offices on the islands.
AAegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com) Domestic flights.
AAstra Airlines (www.astra-airlines.gr) Thessaloniki-based carrier with domestic flights.
AOlympic Air (www.olympicair.com) Aegean Airline’s subsidiary with further domestic flights.
ASky Express (www.skyexpress.gr) Domestic flights based out of Crete.
For intrepid travellers without a tight time schedule, Greece's northeastern islands offer languid coasts, lush scenery and divine beaches, as well as some amazing historic sights. Scheduled ferries are regular but not always very frequent – thankfully you won’t be in any hurry to leave, and many island hoppers would happily extend their exploration from a few weeks to a couple of months.
From Athens, hop a ferry for Tinos to visit the sacred Church of Panagia and explore marble-ornamented villages dotted across the terraced hillsides and misty mountaintops. Head east to Ikaria for isolated stretches of soft sand and lobster-rich menus. Join in the island culture of dancing, drinking and feasting during summer panigyria (all-night celebrations held on saints' days across the island). Afterwards take a short hop to the serene Fourni Islands, a former pirates' lair with surreal sunsets.
Ferry north to Samos where you can hike through lush forests to secluded waterfalls and laze on idyllic beaches. From Samos, head to Chios and get lost in the labyrinth of stone alleyways in the southern village of Mesta before venturing into the interior to hike through citrus groves under the shade of towering mountain peaks.
The next stop is Lesvos (Mytilini), birthplace of the poet Sappho and producer of some of Greece's finest olive oil and ouzo. Not surprisingly, it's also home to hopping nightlife. Visit the island's fantastic modern-art gallery and the hilltop Byzantine monastery of Moni Ypsilou with its glittering ancient manuscripts. Lesvos' landscape, with salt marshes, gushing hot springs, dense forests and soft beaches, is as diverse as its cultural offerings.
From Lesvos, hop to Limnos to dine on the day's catch at Myrina's waterside seafood restaurants. Carry on to secluded Agios Efstratios to stretch out on volcanic-sand beaches. The village, flattened by an earthquake in 1968 and rebuilt by uninspired junta, draws few tourists meaning the beaches are yours to escape on.
Head to Skyros via Limnos, exploring the cobble-stoned village, Venetian fortress and many artist studios, watching for endangered Skyrian wild horses. Hop a ferry to Evia for a therapeutic dip in the thermal-fed bay at Loutra Edipsou before catching a final boat to Rafina on the mainland and returning to Athens.