| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Y |
| Z |
Accommodations: See Paradores; Sleeping; and specific destinations
Admiral’s Hall (Sevilla): 701–703
Adolfo Suárez Barajas Airport (Madrid): 405, 512–513
Ainhoa (Ainhoa): 263
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 20, 27, 973, 978
Airfares (airlines): 23, 1005–1006
Airports: Barcelona, 39, 153–154; Biarritz, 258; Bilbao, 223; Gibraltar, 884; Granada, 610, 664; Madrid, 405, 512–513; Málaga, 859; Pamplona, 282; St-Jean-de-Luz, 240; San Sebastián, 191; Santiago, 349; Sevilla, 672; Tangier, 914; VAT refunds, 966
Alameda del Tajo Park (Ronda): 809
Al-Andalus Life, Museum of (Córdoba): 771
Albayzín (Granada): 608, 613, 645–650; eating, 659–660; map, 646–647; safety, 610, 650; sleeping, 657–658
Alcaicería (Granada): 615–616
Alcazaba (Granada): 622, 623, 628
Alcázar (Segovia): 540–542
Alcázar (Sevilla): 668, 699–708; guided tours, 676–677, 699–700; map, 700; orientation, 674, 699–700; self-guided tour, 700–708
Alcázar (Toledo): 567; Army Museum, 574–577; history of, 575
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Córdoba): 776
Algeciras: 898–899
Alhambra (Granada): 621–638; eating, 626–627; grounds, 636–639; guided tours, 612, 627; helpful hints, 623–627; maps, 624–625, 629; orientation, 613, 623–627; planning tips, 623; reservations, 624–625; self-guided tour, 627–638; sleeping, 658; tickets, 622, 623–625; traveling to, 622
Alhambra Museum (Granada): 622, 627–628
Alhóndiga Bilbao: 230
Almanac: Morocco, 902; Spain, 943
Almonacid: 605
Almudena Cathedral (Madrid): 424–425
Altamira Caves: 337–338
Ambasmestas: 278
American Embassy (Madrid): 479, 960
American Legation Museum (Tangier): 928–930
Americas, Museum of the (Madrid): 413, 476
Andalucía: at a glance, 794; cuisine, 8, 988; itineraries, 791; southern, map, 792–793; white hill towns, 17, 790–839. See also Córdoba; Granada; Sevilla
Anglican Church (Tangier): 922
Antigua Chapel (Sevilla): 694
Apartment rentals: 972–973, 975–978; Barcelona, 137
Apes of Gibraltar: 877–878
Apple (Madrid): 416–417
Apps: 26, 990; Barcelona, 41; maps and navigation tools, 967, 1002; messaging, 991; sightseeing, 968; Toledo, 561; user reviews, 973
April Fair (Sevilla): 673, 728–729, 1010
Aquariums: Barcelona, 63; Biarritz, 260; San Sebastián, 201
Aqueducts, Roman: 68; Segovia, 532, 533, 534–535
Arab Baths (Granada): 644
Arab Baths (Ronda): 816
Archaeological sites: Altamira Caves, 337–338; Pileta Cave, 817–818. See also Romans, ancient
Architecture: churches, 954; overview, 952–955. See also Modernisme; and specific architects and buildings
Archivo General de Indias (Sevilla): 708–710
Arco del Toro (Salamanca): 380
Arco de Santa María (Burgos): 308
Arcos de la Frontera: 791–805; eating, 804–805; helpful hints, 795–796; maps, 795, 797; nightlife, 802; self-guided walk, 796–802; sleeping, 802–804; tourist information, 791, 794; transportation, 794–795, 805
Arenal Market (Sevilla): 730, 750
Armory (Madrid): 445–446
Army Museum (Toledo): 560, 567, 574–577
Arnéguy: 273
Art (artists): overview, 953; timeline, 950–951. See also specific artists and art museums
Artisan Market (Córdoba): 774
Art Nouveau: See Modernisme
Art Nouveau Museum (Salamanca): 384, 389–390
Artxanda Funicular (Bilbao): 230–231
Ascain: 262
Assassination Attempt Memorial (Madrid): 424
Association of San Miguel (Arcos): 800
Astorga Cathedral: 326–327
Astrolabe Tapestry: 585
Atapuerca Archaeological Site: 309
Atlas Mountains (Morocco): 940
ATMs: 962–965
Atocha Station (Madrid): 403, 508–510
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1007
Auritz: 278
Automobile History Museum (Salamanca): 384, 390
AVE: See Train travel
Ave Maria Path (Montserrat): 164
Avenida de la Constitución (Sevilla): 668, 710, 737
Averroes: 775
Ávila: 548–555; eating, 554–555; map, 552–553; sights/activities, 550–554; sleeping, 554
Ávila Cathedral: 552
Ávila Wall: 550–551
Avinguda del Portal de l’Angel (Barcelona): 64, 65, 125
Azabache: 349–350
Azkuna Zentroa (Bilbao): 230
Aznar, José María: 949
Baiona: See Bayonne
Balcony of Europe (Nerja): 841, 847–848; beaches, 850–851; eating, 859; sleeping, 854–855
Bandit Museum (Ronda): 814
Banks: alerting to travel, 26. See also Money
Baños Árabes (Granada): 644
Baños Árabes (Ronda): 816
Baños del Alcázar Califal (Córdoba): 776
Barajas Airport (Madrid): 405, 512–513
Barcelona: 12, 29–157; at a glance, 48–49; arrival in, 38–39; beaches, 49, 122–123; eating, 138–152; excursion areas, 15, 158–180; helpful hints, 39–41; itineraries, 30–32; layout of, 32–35; neighborhoods, 32–35; nightlife, 127–131; self-guided walks, 51–76; shopping, 125–127; sights, 76–123; sleeping, 131–137; tourist information, 35, 38; tours, 46–47, 50–51; transportation, 38–39, 41–46, 153–157. See also specific neighborhoods
Barcelona Card: 38
Barcelona Cathedral: 49, 69–70, 80–82
Barcelona City Hall: 74
Barcelona Head (Lichtenstein): 63
Barcelona History Museum: 49, 76, 84–85
Barcelona Maritime Museum: 48, 77, 80
Barcelona waterfront: 34, 62–63, 122–123; eating, 151–152; map, 124
Barceloneta: 35, 116, 122–123; eating, 151–152; map, 124; nightlife, 130; sleeping, 137
Bar de los Jubilados (Guernica): 220
Barri Gòtic (Barcelona): 34, 63–76, 80–85; eating, 145–147; guided tours, 46; map, 66–67; nightlife, 128–129; self-guided walk, 63–76; shopping, 126; sights, 80–85; tapas, 147
Barrio del Cid (León): 318
Barrio Húmedo (León): 318
Barrio San Basilio (Córdoba), eating: 783, 786
Barrio Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 668, 678–687, 713–714; eating, 746–748; Jews of Sevilla, 684; map, 680; self-guided walk, 678–687; sleeping, 738–742
Barri Xines (Barcelona): 61
Basílica de la Macarena (Sevilla): 674, 721–723
Basilicas: See Churches and cathedrals
Basques: overview, 186–187
Basque Country: 15, 181–264; at a glance, 182; cuisine, 8, 184–185, 188, 988; French, 238–264; itineraries, 182–183; language, 181–182, 183, 186, 947; map, 184–185; Spanish, 188–237; transportation, 183. See also specific destinations
Basque Country Museum (Guernica): 217–219
Basque Culture, Museum of (Bayonne): 253–255
Basque Museum (Bilbao): 231–232
Baths: Córdoba, 776; Granada, 620–621, 644; Ronda, 816
Battle of Trafalgar: 839, 871, 873
Bay of Biscay: 214–216
Bayonne: 182, 251–259; map, 254
Bayonne Ramparts: 256
Bazar Tindouf (Tangier): 916
Beaches: Barcelona, 49, 122–123; Biarritz, 260, 261; Cadaqués, 174; Comillas, 338, 339; Fuengirola, 864; Guéthary, 251; Lequeitio, 215–216; Marbella, 864–865; Nerja, 849–851; St-Jean-de-Luz, 243–244; San Pedro de Alcántara, 865; San Sebastián, 202–203; Sitges, 180; Tangier, 932; Tarifa, 892; Torremolinos, 864; Valdevaqueros, 892; Vejer de la Frontera, 839
Beer: 988–989
Belén Artístico (Arcos): 801
Bernabéu Stadium (Madrid): 430, 479, 482
Betlem Church (Barcelona): 57
Beverages: 987–989
Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne Airport: 240, 258
Biarritz Fishermen’s Wharf: 261
Bidart: 251
Biking (bike rentals): Barcelona, 40–41, 50–51, 123; Bayonne, 253; Bilbao, 227; Salamanca, 376; San Sebastián, 193–194; Sevilla, 673; Tarifa, 887
Bilbao: 182, 221–237; eating, 235–237; helpful hints, 226; itineraries, 221; maps, 224–225, 233; sights, 227–232; sleeping, 232–235; tourist information, 222; tours, 226–227; transportation, 222–223, 226, 237
Bilbao, Guggenheim: 227–230; eating near, 235; sleeping near, 232, 234
Bilbao Fine Arts Museum: 230
Bilbo: See Bilbao
Bisagra Gate (Toledo): 595–596
Bishop’s Palace (Astorga): 326
Bishop’s Prison (St-Jean-de-Luz): 272
Black Virgin of Montserrat: 163–164
Block of Discord (Barcelona): 95, 98, 100
Boabdil: 446, 628, 631, 638–639, 641
Boat travel and cruises: Barcelona, 62–63, 80, 157; Bilbao, 226; ferries to Morocco, 899–900, 905–906, 913–914; map, 994–995; St-Jean-de-Luz, 242; San Sebastián, 201
Bocadillos de calamares: 421, 504–505, 823
Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla (Jerez): 836–837
Bodegas Tradición (Jerez): 835–836
Books, recommended: 1011–1013; for children, 1014–1015
Boquería Market (Barcelona): 48, 58–59, 145
Boulevard Pasteur (Tangier): 923
Bourbon Palace (El Escorial): 527
Breakfast: overview, 980
Bretxa Market (San Sebastián): 197, 200, 211
“Bridge of the Queen” (Puente La Reina): 296–297
Budget tips: 23–24. See also Money-saving tips
Bullfighting (bullfights): 955–958; history of, 957; Madrid, 412, 481–482; Pamplona, 283, 284–286; Ronda, 809–811; Sevilla, 674, 727–728; Tarifa, 891
Bullfighting museum: Córdoba, 775–776; Madrid, 482; Ronda, 810–811; Sevilla, 674, 728
Bulls, Running of the (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Buñuel, Luis: 168, 472, 953, 1014
Burgos: 269, 301–314; eating, 310–311; map, 302; sights, 303–309; sleeping, 309–310; tourist information, 302–303; transportation, 303, 311, 314
Burgos Cathedral: 303–306
Burgos Museum: 307
Burguete: 278
Burial of the Count of Orgaz (El Greco): 560, 587–589
Burriana Beach (Nerja): 851, 859
Buses (bus travel): 999; budgeting, 23; map, 994–995. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 961
Caballerizas Reales de Córdoba: 780
Cable cars: See Funiculars
Cabs: 999–1000; tipping, 965. See also specific destinations
Cadaqués: 171–179; eating, 179; maps, 172, 175; self-guided walk, 174–176; sleeping, 178
Cadaqués Casino: 174
Cadaqués City Hall: 176
Café Granja Viader (Barcelona): 57, 144–145
Café Iruña (Pamplona): 287, 294
CaixaForum (Barcelona): 49, 121–122
CaixaForum (Madrid): 474–475
Calahonda Beach (Nerja): 850
Calahorra Tower (Córdoba): 771
Calatrava, Santiago: 118, 223, 230, 299, 479, 955
Caliphate Alcázar, Baths of the (Córdoba): 776
Calle Agua (Sevilla): 683, 685
Calle Agua de Albayzín (Granada): 649
Calle Almirante Ferrándiz (Nerja): 856–857
Calle Ancha (León): 317
Calle Cava Baja (Madrid): 499, 502–503
Calle Correo (Bilbao): 236
Calle Cuna (Sevilla): 734–735
Calle de Cervantes (Segovia): 535
Calle de Comercio (Toledo): 568
Calle de Gloria (Sevilla): 687
Calle de Infanta Isabel (Segovia): 546–547
Calle de Jesús (Madrid): 498–499
Calle de Joaquín Herrera (Nerja): 852
Calle de la Estafeta (Pamplona): 284, 293
Calle de la Montera (Madrid): 416–417, 432
Calle del Arenal (Bilbao): 237
Calle del Arenal (Madrid): 427–430, 485
Calle del Codo (Madrid): 422–423
Calle del Perro (Bilbao): 236
Calle de Postas (Madrid): 418
Calle Ermita (Granada): 615
Calle Hernando de Carabeo (Nerja): 848–849
Calle Herrera Oria (Nerja): 857–859
Calleja de las Flores (Córdoba): 771, 773
Calle Jardines (Bilbao): 236–237
Calle Mayor (Madrid): 418, 424
Calle Mayor (Puente La Reina): 296
Calle Nueva (Ronda): 821
Calle Pintada (Nerja): 849
Calle Pureza (Sevilla): 726
Calle Real (Gibraltar): 884
Calle Reinoso (Sevilla): 686
Calle Reyes Católicos (Granada): 615, 619
Calle Rúa Mayor (Salamanca): 381, 396
Calle Sagasta (Sevilla): 734
Calle San Jacinto (Sevilla): 726, 751–752
Calle San Lorenzo (Burgos): 310–311
Calle Santa María (Bilbao): 236
Calle Santa Teresa (Sevilla): 686
Calle Santo Tomé (Toledo): 570
Calle Sierpes (Sevilla): 730–731, 734
Calle Sombrerería (Burgos): 310
Calle Tetuán (Sevilla): 730–731
Calle Van Dyck (Salamanca): 396–397
Camarmeña: 343
Camino de Santiago: 15, 17, 265–343; at a glance, 268–269; hiking, 278, 312–313; history of, 274–275; itineraries, 267; maps, 270–271, 276–277, 328–329; symbols, 285; tourist information, 267–268; tours, 268; transportation, 266–267. See also Santiago de Compostela; and specific destinations
Camper (Madrid), 484; (Sevilla), 731
Campillos: 818
Canaletes Fountain (Barcelona): 55
Cantabria: 336–343
Cantarriján Beach (Nerja): 851
Cap de Creus: 173–174
Capilla del Carmen (Sevilla): 725
Capilla de los Marineros (Sevilla): 726
Capilla Real: See Royal Chapel
Carabeillo Beach (Nerja): 850–851
Carabeo Beach (Nerja): 850–851
Car insurance: 1001–1002
Carmens, in Granada: 660–661
Car navigation: 1002–1003
Carranza Collection (Toledo): 574
Carre Ample (Barcelona): 130
Carrefour (Barcelona): 56, 145
Carrer Ample (Barcelona): 126
Carrer Curós (Cadaqués): 176
Carrer de Bonsuccés (Barcelona): 126
Carrer de la Mercè (Barcelona): 130, 147
Carrer de la Palla (Barcelona): 69, 126
Carrer de la Portaferrissa (Barcelona): 56, 126
Carrer del Bisbe (Barcelona): 70, 71, 73
Carrer del Bisbe Bridge (Barcelona): 73–74
Carrer de l’Esparteria (Barcelona): 126
Carrer del Paradís (Barcelona): 75
Carrer del Rec (Barcelona): 126
Carrer dels Banys Nous (Barcelona): 126
Carrer dels Escudellers (Barcelona): 130
Carrer de Petritxol (Barcelona): 126
Carrer de Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona): 73
Carrión de los Condes: 314
Carthusian Monastery (Burgos): 308–309
Carthusian Monastery (near Granada): 652–653
Car travel (driving): 25, 1004–1005; mileage and time, 1002–1003; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21. See also specific destinations
Cartuja de Miraflores (Burgos): 308–309
Casa Batlló (Barcelona): 49, 98
Casa de Botines (León): 317
Casa de la Historia (San Sebastián): 201–202
Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona): 70–72
Casa de las Conchas (Salamanca): 381
Casa de los Picos (Segovia): 535
Casa de Murillo (Sevilla): 686
Casa de Pilatos (Sevilla): 716
Casa de Sefarad (Córdoba): 773
Casa Lleó Morera (Barcelona): 49, 100
Casa Milà (Barcelona): 48, 100–101
Casa Museu Amatller (Barcelona): 98
Casa Salvador Dalí (Port Lligat): 176–178
Casas rurales: overview, 975
Casemates Square (Gibraltar): 867, 873–874, 880, 883
Castell: 83
Castile: 301–302
Castillo de San Jorge (Sevilla): 725
Castle of Montjuïc (Barcelona): 116–117
Castrojeriz: 314
Catalan Art Museum (Barcelona): 48, 118–120
Catalan College of Architects (Barcelona): 68–69
Catalan language: 44, 141, 947; essential phrases, 45
Catalan Music, Palace of (Barcelona): 48, 93, 128
Catalunya: cuisine, 7, 138–140, 988; overview, 44–45, 70–71. See also Barcelona
Catedral de Barcelona: 48, 69–70, 80–82
Catedral de Granada: 613, 617, 642–644
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 424–425
Catedral de Segovia: 538–540
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Cave Museum of Sacromonte (Granada): 651–652
Cell phones: See Smartphones
Cenicero: 299
Centro de Arte Caja Burgos: 307
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid): 412, 466–474
Ceramic Museum (Sevilla): 725
Cervantes, Miguel de: 360, 377, 566–567, 605, 690, 945, 1013
Chamartín Station (Madrid): 403, 508
Chapelle de Notre-Dame d’Aranazau (Ainhoa): 263
Chapel of Saint Agatha (Barcelona): 76, 85
Chapel of Saint Anthony (Sevilla): 693
Chapel of the Mariners (Sevilla): 726
Chapel of the New Kings (Toledo): 583
Chapter House (Toledo): 582
Chapter Rooms (El Escorial): 523
Charles III: 283–284, 287, 415, 429, 474, 527; biographical sketch, 439; Royal Palace (Madrid), 434–446
Charles V: 65, 382, 428, 446, 457–458, 519, 521, 523, 524, 525–526, 535, 556, 566, 572, 576, 583, 596, 639, 640, 641–642, 704, 705, 769, 945, 946; Alhambra (Granada), 627–628; Wall (Gibraltar), 873
Chefchaouen (Morocco): 939
Chiringuitos: 122–123, 130, 152, 180, 849
Chocolate: 256, 295, 327, 427, 489, 507–508, 663. See also Churros con chocolate
Chocolate Museum (Astorga): 327
Chueca (Madrid): 506–507
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 954; Almudena Cathedral (Madrid), 424–425; Astorga Cathedral, 326–327; Ávila Cathedral, 552; Barcelona Cathedral, 49, 69–70, 80–82; Betlem Church (Barcelona), 57; Burgos Cathedral, 303–306; Church of the Crucifixion (Puente La Reina), 296; Church of the Savior (Sevilla), 714–716; Granada Cathedral, 613, 617, 642–644; León Cathedral, 318–321; Lugo Cathedral, 335; Montserrat Basilica, 162–164; Pamplona Cathedral, 287, 290; St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier), 922; Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne), 255–256; St. Ginès (Madrid), 427; St. Jean-Baptiste (St-Jean-de-Luz), 246–248; St. Matthew (Tarifa), 887, 890; Salamanca Cathedral, 383, 386–388; San Antonio of Padua Church (Frigiliana), 862; San Esteban Church (Salamanca), 388–389; San Gregorio Church (Granada), 647; San Isidoro Church (León), 316–317; San Lorenzo Church (Pamplona), 291; San Nicolás Church (Burgos), 307; San Pedro (Arcos), 800–801; San Salvador Church (Nerja), 848; San Saturnino Church (Pamplona), 290–291; Santa Ana Church (Granada), 619; Santa Ana Church (Sevilla), 726; Santa Anna Church (Barcelona), 64–65; Santa María Church (Arcos), 797–799; Santa Maria Church (Cadaqués), 175–176; Santa Maria del Mar Church (Barcelona), 49, 94; Santa Maria del Pi (Barcelona), 59, 129; Santa María la Mayor (Ronda), 812–813; Santa María la Real (O Cebreiro), 332–333; Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla (Sitges), 180; Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona), 72; Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao), 231; Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, 350–356; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 560, 567, 570; San Vicente Basilica (Ávila), 552–553; Segovia Cathedral, 538–540; Sevilla Cathedral, 674, 688–698; Toledo Cathedral, 560, 578–585; Vera Cruz Church (near Segovia), 452–543
Church of the Crucifixion (Puente La Reina): 296
Church of the Savior (Sevilla): 674, 714–716
Churriguera brothers: 376–377, 388
Churros con chocolate: 126, 212, 295, 489, 495, 507–508, 663, 898, 980
Cibeles CentroCentro of Culture and Citizenship (Madrid): 475
Cinema Rif (Tangier): 922, 933
Circulo de Bellas Artes (Madrid): 431
Circulo del Arte (Toledo): 561
Citadel Park (Barcelona): 123
City Under Siege (Gibraltar): 879–880
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1007
Clerecía Towers (Salamanca): 385
Clothing Museum (Madrid): 413, 476
Clothing sizes: 1016
Colegio de Infantes (Toledo): 585
Columbus, Christopher: 75–76, 76, 186–187, 381, 442, 479, 580, 618, 631–632, 641, 702–703, 709, 711, 942, 945; biographical sketch, 708; Monument (Barcelona), 62; tomb (Sevilla), 694–695
Comillas: 338–340
Concurso Popular de Patios Cordobeses (Córdoba): 778
Consuegra: 605
Convent Guard Room (Gibraltar): 873
Convento de las Dueñas (Salamanca): 389
Convento de San Bernardo (Granada): 621
Convent of St. Teresa (Ávila): 552–554
Cooking classes: Barcelona, 51; San Sebastián, 195; Sevilla, 747
Córdoba: 17, 756–789; arrival in, 760–761; eating, 782–788; entertainment, 780–781; helpful hints, 761; history of, 766–767; itineraries, 756–757; maps, 757, 758–759, 784–785; orientation, 757, 760; sights, 761–780; sleeping, 781–782; tourist information, 760; transportation, 760–761, 789
Córdoba City Walls: 774
Córdoba Synagogue: 773–774
Corpus Christi: 568, 584, 585, 727–728, 1010
Corpus Christi Church and Convent (Madrid): 422
Corpus Christi Convent (Segovia): 537–538
Corral del Carbón (Granada): 614–615
Cortés, Hernán: 945
Costa del Sol: 17–18, 840–900; history, 843; itineraries, 841; map, 841. See also specific destinations
Costs of trip: 23
Court of the Orange Trees (Córdoba): 763
Court of the Orange Trees (Sevilla): 697–698
Courtyard of the Dolls (Sevilla): 705
Courtyard of the Hunt (Sevilla): 701
Courtyard of the Lions (Granada): 632
Courtyard of the Maidens (Sevilla): 703–704
Courtyard of the Myrtles (Granada): 630
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Cruz de Ferro (Mount Irago): 328–329
Cuatro Postes (Ávila): 551
Cuesta de Gomérez (Granada): 655
Cueva de Altamira: 337–338
Cueva de la Pileta: 817–818
Cueva de Nerja: 852
Cuisine: 7–8, 978–987; Andalucía, 7–8, 988; Ávila, 554; Basque Country, 8, 184–185, 188, 988; Catalan, 7, 138–140, 988; Córdoba, 782–783; Galician, 8, 370, 988; Granada, 658–659; Madrid, 495, 496; Moroccan, 936; Ronda, 821; Salamanca, 394; Segovia, 545; Sevilla, 743, 746; Toledo, 601–602. See also Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Currency and exchange: 962–964; Gibraltar, 870–871; Morocco, 902, 915
Customs regulations: 966
Dalí, Salvador: 50, 68, 125, 166, 171, 174, 471–472, 1014; biographical sketch, 168, 953; House and Garden (Port Lligat), 176–178; Theater-Museum (Figueres), 167–171
Damascene, shopping for: 596–597
Dance: See Flamenco; Sardana dances; Zambra dance
Deba: 214–215
Del Salón Beach (Nerja): 850, 859
Descalzas Royal Monastery (Madrid): 447
Discounts: 961. See also Money-saving tips
Domènech i Montaner, Lluís: 48, 70–72, 93, 99, 100, 339
Donibane Lohizune: See St-Jean-de-Luz
Donostia: See San Sebastián
Don Quixote (Cervantes): 566–567, 605, 945, 1013
Drinks: 987–989. See also Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel
Dürer, Albrecht: 455
Eating: 7–8, 978–987; in Morocco, 916; restaurant pricing, 979; Spanish restaurant phrases, 1022; Spanish schedule, 8, 979; tipping, 965, 981–982. See also Cuisine; Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Eixample (Barcelona): 35, 95–109; eating, 149–151; maps, 96–97, 138–139; nightlife, 130–131; shopping, 126–127; sleeping, 136–137; tapas, 151
El Alma de Córdoba: 780–781
El Born (Barcelona): 34, 70, 85–94; eating, 148–149; nightlife, 129; shopping, 126; sights, 85–94
El Capricho (Comillas): 339
El Cid: 301, 305–308, 944, 1014
Elciego: 299
El Cielo (Nerja): 852
El Corte Inglés (Barcelona), 64, 127, 145; (Granada), 611, 619; (Madrid), 408, 417, 482–483, 489, 506; (Sevilla), 730
Electricity: 961; Gibraltar, 871
El Escorial: 516–528, 955; maps, 517, 520
El Escorial Gardens: 527
El Greco: 20, 196, 230, 465, 523, 551, 556, 566, 583–584, 718, 835; biographical sketch, 589, 953; Museum (Toledo), 560, 571, 589–590; Prado Museum (Madrid), 458–459; Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo), 560, 572–574; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 560, 570, 587–589
El Martes (Toledo): 597
El País Vasco: See Spanish Basque Country
El Playazo (Nerja): 850
El Postigo Market (Sevilla): 730
El Prat de Llobregat Airport (Barcelona): 39, 153–154
El Rastro Flea Market (Madrid): 413, 483–484
Els Quatre Gats (Barcelona): 65, 68, 146
El Torno Pastelería de Conventos (Sevilla): 698
Embassies: Madrid, 479, 960; Morocco, 902
Emergencies: 960; Morocco, 902
Entertainment: budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Environmental footprint (going green): 961
Equestrian shows: 780, 811, 834–835
Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 413, 476–477
Espacio Fundación Telefónica (Madrid): 433
Espadrilles, shopping for: 125
Espelette (Ezpeleta): 263–264
Estadi Olímpic (Barcelona): 117
ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 25, 960
Euro currency: 963
Europa Point (Gibraltar): 870
Euskal Herria: See Basque Country
Euskal Herria Museoa (Guernica): 217–219
Euskal Museoa (Bilbao): 231–232
Events: See Festivals
Exchange rate: 963
Fabrica Zamorano (Toledo): 569–570, 596
Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport: 610, 664
Ferdinand: 351–352, 382, 398, 423, 428, 437, 442, 522, 535, 541, 571, 572, 580, 591, 593, 594, 618, 619, 631–632, 643, 684, 701, 709, 796, 942, 944–945; Royal Chapel (Granada), 613, 618, 638
Feria de Abril (Sevilla): 673, 728–729, 1010
Ferpal (Madrid): 428
Ferries to Morocco: 899–900, 905–906, 913–914
Fès (Morocco): 939–940
Festivals: 1009–1011. See also specific festivals
Fiesta de San Fermín (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Figueres: 166–171
Films, recommended: 1013–1014
Fishermen’s Wharf (Biarritz): 261
Flamenco: Arcos, 802; Barcelona, 128–129; Córdoba, 780; Granada, 652; Madrid, 413, 488; Nerja, 853; Sevilla, 674, 717–718, 729, 735–737
Flamenco Dance Museum (Sevilla): 674, 717–718, 736
Foncebadón: 329
Font Màgica (Barcelona): 49, 121
Food: See Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Jamón; Markets; Marzipan; Mazapán; Nun goodies; Percebes; Piments d’Espelette; Pintxos; Roast suckling pig; Serrano ham; Tapas; Tarta de Santiago; and specific destinations
Food tours: Barcelona, 51; Granada, 612–613; San Sebastián, 195; Sevilla, 747
Fort of San Bartolomé (Pamplona): 291
Fórum (Barcelona): 34, 122–123
Fountain of Canaletes (Barcelona): 55
France: hotel tips, 240; overview, 240; restaurant tips, 240–241; survival phrases, 241
Franco, Francisco: 44, 83, 93, 116, 181, 186, 188, 216, 218, 231, 239, 275, 348, 380, 415, 420, 425–426, 429, 438, 469–472, 477, 524–525, 528, 567, 575, 577, 640, 710, 843, 874, 942, 945, 948
Frederic Marès Museum (Barcelona): 49, 84
French Basque Country: 238–264; cuisine, 185, 188; map, 184–185
Frigiliana: 860–862
Frigiliana Archaeological Museum: 860
Frómista: 314
Fuengirola: 864
Fuente Dé Cable Car: 342–343
Fulton, John: 739
Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona): 49, 117
Fundador Pedro Domecq (Jerez): 837
Funiculars (cable cars): Barcelona, 113, 116, 117; Bilbao, 230–231; Fuente Dé, 342–343; Gibraltar, 875–876; Montserrat, 160–161, 165; San Sebastián, 203
Futbol: See Soccer
Galería de Arte San Pedro (Arcos): 801
Galicia: 265–266, 325–328, 344–372; cuisine, 7–8, 370, 988; language, 348. See also Santiago de Compostela
Galician Contemporary Art Museum (Santiago): 364
Galician folk-music concerts, in Santiago: 364–365
Galician People, Museum of the (Santiago): 363–364
Game of Thrones (TV series): 676, 727
Garden of Earthly Delights (Bosch): 451, 454
Gares: 296–297
Gasparini Room (Madrid): 440
Gaudí, Antonio: 165, 317, 326, 339; in Barcelona, 98–113, 955; Exhibition Center, 49, 82–83; guided tours, 46; Museum, 108–109; Palau Güell, 48, 61, 77; Park Güell, 48, 109–113; Sagrada Família, 48, 102–109
Gay community, in Sitges: 179
Gelmírez Palace (Santiago): 360
General Archives of the Indies (Sevilla): 708–710
Generalife Palace and Gardens (Granada): 622, 623, 635–636
Gernika: See Guernica
Gernika Assembly House (Guernica): 219–220
Gernika Oak Tree (Guernica): 219–220
Gernika Peace Museum (Guernica): 217
Getaria: 215
Gibraltar: 865–884; arrival in, 868–870; eating, 882–884; helpful hints, 870–871; itineraries, 867–868; maps, 866, 872; nightlife, 880–881; self-guided walk, 871–874; sights, 874–880; sleeping, 881–882; vs. Spain, 869; tourist information, 868; transportation, 869–870, 884
Gibraltar Moorish Castle: 880
Gibraltar Museum: 874
Gimeno (Barcelona): 57–58
Giralda Bell Tower (Sevilla): 674, 680–681, 688, 697, 698
Girona-Costa Brava Airport: 39, 154
Golden Age: overview, 945–946
Gold Tower (Sevilla): 713
Golondrinas, in Barcelona: 62–63, 80
Gothic Quarter (Barcelona): See Barri Gòtic
Governor’s Residence (Gibraltar): 873
Goya, Francisco de: 120, 230, 283, 417, 440, 467–468, 478, 522, 527, 576, 583, 584, 696, 718, 811, 835, 947, 953; Prado Museum (Madrid), 460–463; tomb (Madrid), 413, 476–477
Gràcia (Barcelona): 35
Granada: 12, 606–665; at a glance, 613; arrival in, 608–610; eating, 658–664; helpful hints, 610–611; itineraries, 607; maps, 609, 614, 646–647, 656; nightlife, 652, 661; self-guided walk, 613–621; sights, 621–653; sleeping, 654–658; tourist information, 608; tours, 612–613; transportation, 608–610, 611, 664–665
Granada Card: 608
Granada Cathedral: 613, 617, 642–644
Granada Fine Arts Museum: 628
Granada Great Mosque: 613, 648
Granada International Festival of Music and Dance: 610, 627, 1010
Granada San Francisco Parador: 636–637, 658
Grand Hall of the Ambassadors (Granada): 631–632
Grand Socco (Tangier): 919–922
Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona): 60, 128
Gran Vía (Madrid): 402, 430–434; map, 432–433; sleeping near, 490–491
Gran Vía de Colón (Granada): 608, 617, 618–619
Grazalema: 794, 829–832; eating, 831–832; map, 830–831; sleeping, 830–831
Grazalema Natural Park: 828
Great Mosque of Granada: 613, 648
Great Siege Tunnels (Gibraltar): 879
Gros (San Sebastián): 190, 204–205; eating, 210–211, 212; nightlife, 210–211; sleeping, 206
Guadalquivir River: 668, 724–725, 757, 770–771
Güell Park (Barcelona): 48, 109–113; map, 110–111
Guernica (Picasso): 216, 217, 218, 469–471
Guernica (town; Gernika): 216–221
Guéthary: 251
Guggenheim Bilbao: 227–230; eating near, 235; sleeping near, 232, 234
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1006–1007
Guitar, Spanish: See Spanish guitars
Guzmán el Bueno Castle (Tarifa): 890–891
Gypsies (Roma), of Granada: 653
Habsburgs Palace (El Escorial): 525–526
Hall of Tapestries (Sevilla): 706
Hall of the Abencerrajes (Granada): 632–633
Hall of the Ambassadors (Sevilla): 704–705
Hall of the Kings (Granada): 633
Hall of Two Sisters (Granada): 634
Hammam al Andalus (Granada): 644
Hammam El Bañuelo (Granada): 620–621
Hemingway, Ernest: 278, 530, 958, 1013; in Madrid, 411, 431, 497; in Pamplona, 279, 285–286, 287, 292, 294
Hen and Stag parties: 611
Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 413, 476–477
Hiking (walking): Ainhoa, 263; Ávila, 550–551; Bayonne, 256; Cadaqués, 173–174; Camino de Santiago, 278, 312–313; Cares Gorge, 343; Frigiliana, 861–862; Gibraltar, 876; Granada, 623, 644–649; Montserrat, 165; Nerja, 848–849, 852–853; Picos de Europa, 342–343; Ronda, 815–816; San Sebastián, 203; Segovia, 533
Historic inns: See Paradores
History: 941–948; timeline, 950–951
Holidays: 1009–1011. See also Festivals
Holy Door (Santiago): 356
Holy Week: 890, 969, 1010; Sevilla, 672–673, 678–679, 722, 1010
Hondarribia: 191
Horses, of Jerez: 834–835
Horse shows: 780, 811, 834–835
Hospital de la Caridad (Sevilla): 674, 710–712
Hospital de los Venerables (Sevilla): 686–687, 713–714
Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs (Santiago): 351–352
Hostales: overview, 974
Hostels: overview, 977–978. See also specific destinations
Hotels: overview, 971–974; rates and deals, 970–971; reservations, 24, 976–977. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
House of Louis XIV (St-Jean-de-Luz): 243
House of Siglo XV (Segovia): 536
House of the Moorish King (Ronda): 815
Huelgas Monastery (Burgos): 308
Human Evolution, Museum of (Burgos): 306–307
Hustlers, in Morocco: 914–915
Iglesia del Salvador (Sevilla): 674, 714–716
Immaculate Conception, doctrine of: 695
International Festival of Music and Dance (Granada): 610, 627, 1010
Internet security: 991
Iron Cross (Mount Irago): 328–329
Iruña: See Pamplona
Irving, Washington: 615, 637, 684, 686, 944, 1013; Room (Granada), 634
Isabel: 351–352, 382, 398, 423, 428, 437, 442, 522, 535, 541, 571, 572, 580, 591, 593, 594, 618, 619, 631–632, 643, 684, 701, 702, 709, 796, 942, 944–945; Royal Chapel (Granada), 613, 618, 638
Isla de las Palomas (Tarifa): 892
Isla de Santa Clara (San Sebastián): 201
Islamic art: overview, 633
Islamic Córdoba: overview, 766–767
Itálica: 727
Itineraries: Andalucía, 791; Barcelona, 30–32; Basque Country, 182–183; Camino de Santiago, 267; Córdoba, 756–757; Costa del Sol, 841; designing your own, 19–22; Gibraltar, 867–868; Granada, 607; Madrid, 399; Morocco, 904–905, 911; Salamanca, 373–374; Santiago, 345; Sevilla, 668; Toledo, 556–557; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21
James, Saint: 74, 265, 274–275, 285, 305, 352–353, 359; biographical sketch, 357; tomb, 356. See also Camino de Santiago
Jamón (ham): 7, 59, 139–140, 503, 663, 982
Jardin del Convento (Madrid): 424
Jerez de la Frontera: 794, 832–838; map, 833; sights/activities, 834–837; transportation, 832–834, 837–838
Jewish museums: Córdoba, 773; Toledo, 560, 571, 590–592
Jewish Quarter (Barcelona): 73
Jewish Quarter (Cadaqués): 174–175
Jewish Quarter (Córdoba): 771–776; eating, 786–787; map, 758–759; scavenger hunt, 772
Jewish Quarter (Segovia): 538
Jewish Quarter (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Jewish Quarter (Toledo): 571, 595; sleeping, 600
Jews of Sevilla: 684
Joaquín Peinado Museum (Ronda): 814–815
John Mackintosh Hall (Gibraltar): 871, 873
Josep Tarradellas Barcelona-El Prat Airport (Barcelona): 39, 153–154
Joy Eslava (Madrid): 427–428
Juan Carlos I: 377, 380, 429, 438, 439, 444, 525, 942, 948, 952
Juan de Austria (Barcelona): 80
Kasbah (Tangier): 911, 930–931; sleeping, 933–935
Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures (Tangier): 930–931
King Ferdinand: See Ferdinand
King Pedro I’s Palace (Sevilla): 703–706
King’s Bastion Leisure Centre (Gibraltar): 871, 881
Knives, shopping for: 569–570, 596
Kubo-Kutxa Gallery (San Sebastián): 204
Kursaal Conference Center (San Sebastián): 204
La Boquería Market (Barcelona): 48, 58–59, 145
La Cartuja (near Granada): 652–653
La Clerecía Church (Salamanca): 381
La Concha Beach and Promenade (San Sebastián): 189, 190, 202
La Granja de San Ildefonso Palace (near Segovia): 543–544
Laguardia: 298–299
La Línea (Gibraltar): 881–882, 884
La Macarena (Sevilla): 674, 722–723
La Mallorquina (Madrid): 418, 505
La Mancha: 605
La Mariblanca (Madrid): 430
La Media Luna (Granada): 647–648
La Moreneta (Montserrat): 163–164
Language: 28, 947; Arabic, 902, 909; Basque, 181–182, 183, 186, 947; beer terms, 989; beverage terms, 989; breakfast terms, 980; Catalan, 45, 141, 947; dessert terms, 986–987; French, 241; Galego, 348, 947; online translation tips, 961; restaurant phrases, 1022; survival phrases, 1021; tapas terms, 984–985
Language barrier: 990
La Pedrera (Barcelona): 48, 100–101
La Perla Spa (San Sebastián): 203
La Rhune (Larrun): 262
La Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
La Ribera Market (Bilbao): 232
Las Arenas (Barcelona): 49, 122
Las Meninas (Velázquez): 456
L’Atelier du Chocolat (Bayonne): 256
La Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 420–421
Lavapiés (Madrid): 479–481
Lekeitio: 215–216
León: 269, 301–302, 314–325; eating, 324–325; map, 316; sights, 315–323; sleeping, 323–324; tourist information, 315; transportation, 315, 325
León Cathedral: 318–321
León City Hall: 315–316
Le Pays Basque: See French Basque Country
Lequeitio (Lekeitio): 215–216
Liceu Opera House (Barcelona): 60, 128
Lichtenstein, Roy: 63
Lizarra: 297
Lonja Palace (Sevilla): 708–710
Lugo Cathedral: 335
Macarena (Sevilla): 723
Macarena, Basílica de la (Sevilla): 674, 721–723
Macho (Victorio) Museum (Toledo): 560, 571, 592–593
Madinat Al-Zahra: 779–780
Madrid: 12, 398–513; at a glance, 412–413; arrival in, 403, 405; eating, 496–508; excursion areas, 17, 514–555; experiences, 478–482; helpful hints, 405, 408; itineraries, 399; nightlife, 485–490; orientation, 402; self-guided walks, 414–434; shopping, 482–484; sights, 434–478; sleeping, 490–496; tapas, 498–504; tourist information, 402–403; tours, 411–414; transportation, 403, 405, 408–411, 508–513
Madrid History Museum: 413, 478
Madrid Tower: 425
Madrid Town Hall: 423
Magic Fountains (Barcelona): 49, 121
Maids of Honor, The (Velázquez): 456
Mail: 993. See also specific destinations
Maimonides: 775
Málaga Airport: 859
Mantillas: 734
Maps: See Map Index
Marbella: 864–865
Marès (Frederic) Museum (Barcelona): 49, 84
Mariano Zamorano (Toledo): 569–570, 596
Marine Museum (Biarritz): 260–261
Maritime Museum (Barcelona): 48, 77, 80
Markets: Ávila, 554; Barcelona, 48, 58–59, 69–70, 93–94, 94, 145; Bayonne, 261; Bilbao, 232; Chefchaouen, 939; Córdoba, 774; Gibraltar, 874; Granada, 649, 662–663; León, 318; Madrid, 419, 421–422, 483–484, 505, 507; Marrakech, 940; Pamplona, 283; Rabat, 939; St-Jean-de-Luz, 240–241; Salamanca, 380, 395; San Sebastián, 197, 200, 211; Santiago, 362–363; Segovia, 533, 547; Sevilla, 725, 730, 749–750; Tangier, 921, 922, 925–927; bargaining, 926; Tarifa, 898; Toledo, 597, 603
Markina: 214–215
Marks & Spencer (Gibraltar): 873, 883
Marqués de Riscal (Elciego): 299
Marrakech (Morocco): 940
Martorell i Montells, Joan: 339
Matisse, Henri: 932
Mazapán: 567, 568, 570, 603–604
Medical help: 960
Medina (Tangier): 911, 924–931; eating, 936–937; guided tours, 916–917, 919; map, 918; nightlife, 932–933; sleeping, 933–935
Medina Sidonia: 838–839
Mediterranean Steps (Gibraltar): 878
Mendoubia Gardens (Tangier): 921, 922–923
Mercado de la Bretxa (San Sebastián): 197, 200, 211
Mercado de San Miguel (Madrid): 421–422, 505
Mercados: See Markets
Mercury Pond (Sevilla): 707
Mesones: 421, 488–489, 534–535, 546
Metric system: 1016
Metro: Barcelona, 41–45; Madrid, 408–409; map, 410; Sevilla, 675
Mezquita (Córdoba): 760, 761–770; eating, 783; entertainment, 780–781; map, 762; sleeping, 781–782
Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo): 577–578
Mezquita Mayor de Granada: 613, 648
Mihrab (Córdoba): 765–766
Military Heritage Centre (Gibraltar): 879
Mirador de San Cristóbal (Granada): 649
Mirador de San Nicolás (Granada): 613, 645–648
Miramar Palace and Park (San Sebastián): 203
Miró, Joan: 60, 122, 472, 953; Museum (Barcelona), 49, 117
Mobile phones: See Smartphones
Modernisme: 99, 955; about, 99; Barcelona, 35, 38, 95–113; guided tours, 46; map, 96–97. See also specific architects
Moll Adossat (Barcelona): 157
Monasterio de Irache: 268, 297
Monasterio de la Cartuja (near Granada): 652–653
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Madrid): 447
Monasterio de las Huelgas (Burgos): 308
Monasterio de San José del Carmen (Sevilla): 686
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo): 560, 571, 593–595
Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 516–528, 955; maps, 517, 520
Mondragón Palace (Ronda): 813–814
Money: 962–966; average daily expenses, 23; budget tips, 23–24; Gibraltar, 870–871; Morocco, 902, 915
Money belts: 27, 39, 915, 961, 962, 964
Money-saving tips: 23–24, 961; Barcelona, 38, 144; Bilbao, 226; Granada, 608; Ronda, 808; San Sebastián, 190–191; sleeping, 970–971
Monistrol de Montserrat Station: 160–161
Monkeys of Gibraltar: 871, 877–878
Monte Igueldo (San Sebastián): 203
Monte Urgull (San Sebastián): 201–202
Montjuïc (Barcelona): 35, 63, 113–120; map, 114–115; nightlife, 130
Montjuïc Castle (Barcelona): 116–117
Montjuïc Communications Tower (Barcelona): 118
Montserrat: 158–166; eating, 166; history of, 164; map, 163; sights, 162–166; tourist information, 162; transportation, 160–162
Montserrat, Museum of: 165
Montserrat-Aeri Station: 160
Montserrat Basilica: 162–164
Montserrat’s Escolania: 166
Monument a Colóm (Barcelona): 62
Monumento al Encierro (Pamplona): 286
Monument to the Martyrs of Independence (Barcelona): 72
Moorish Baths (Granada): 620–621
Moorish Castle (Gibraltar): 880
Moors: 274, 275, 942; architecture, 952–953; cuisine, 7. See also specific sights
Morocco: 903–940; almanac, 902; ferries, 899–900, 905–906, 913–914; health concerns, 902; itineraries, 904–905; map, 904; time zones, 902, 906; tourist information, 902; tours, 904–907, 910; women in, 920. See also Tangier
Moshe Nahon Synagogue (Tangier): 924–925
Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario (Santiago): 360
Mosteiro San Paio (Santiago): 361
Mount Irago: 328–329
Movies, recommended: 1013–1014
Mozarabic Chapel (Toledo): 585
Muelle Adosado (Barcelona): 157
Murillo, Bartolomé: 230, 666, 682, 685, 690–691, 693–696, 711, 712, 719–720, 835, 953; biographical sketch, 692; House (Sevilla), 686; Prado Museum (Madrid), 457
Musée Basque (Bayonne): 253–255
Museo Arqueológico Nacional/MAN (Madrid): 412, 475
Museo Art Nouveau y Art Deco (Salamanca): 389–390
Museo Carmen Thyssen Málaga: 863
Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte (Granada): 651–652
Museo da Catedral (Santiago): 357–360
Museo das Peregrinacións e de Santiago: 363
Museo de América (Madrid): 413, 476
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente (Segovia): 542
Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao): 230
Museo de Bellas Artes (Granada): 628
Museo de Bellas Artes (Sevilla): 674, 718–721
Museo de Burgos: 307
Museo de Història de la Automoción (Salamanca): 390
Museo de Historia de Madrid: 413, 478
Museo de la Alhambra (Granada): 622, 627–628
Museo de la Cerámica de Triana (Sevilla): 725
Museo del Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza (Madrid): 412, 463–466
Museo del Baile Flamenco (Sevilla): 674, 717–718, 736
Museo del Bandolero (Ronda): 814
Museo del Ejército (Toledo): 560, 574–577
Museo del Greco (Toledo): 560, 571, 589–590
Museo del Jamón (Madrid): 503
Museo de los Concilios y de la Cultura Visigoda (Toledo): 560, 585–587
Museo del Traje (Madrid): 413, 476
Museo de Nerja: 848
Museo de San Isidoro (León): 322–323
Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo): 560, 567, 572–574
Museo do Pobo Galego (Santiago): 363–364
Museo Joaquín Peinado (Ronda): 814–815
Museo Julio Romero de Torres (Córdoba): 777
Museo Nacional del Prado (Madrid): See Prado Museum
Museo Naval (Madrid), 413, 474; (San Sebastián), 201; (Sevilla), 713
Museo Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Sevilla): 674, 716–717
Museo Picasso Málaga: 863
Museo Sefardí (Toledo): 560, 590–592
Museo Sorolla (Madrid): 412, 477
Museo Taurino (Córdoba), 775–776; (Madrid), 482; (Sevilla), 674, 728
Museo Victorio Macho (Toledo): 560, 571, 592–593
Museo Vivo de Al-Andalus (Córdoba): 771
Museu Cau Ferrat (Sitges): 180
Museu d’História de Barcelona: 49, 76, 84–85
Museu Frederic Marès (Barcelona): 49, 84
Museu Maricel (Sitges): 180
Museu Marítim (Barcelona): 48, 77, 80
Museum of Al-Andalus Life (Córdoba): 771
Museum of Basque Culture (Bayonne): 253–255
Museum of Contemporary Art (Barcelona): 94–95
Museum of Human Evolution (Burgos): 306–307
Museum of Montserrat: 165
Museum of Navarre (Pamplona): 283
Museum of San Telmo (San Sebastián): 196–197
Museum of the Americas (Madrid): 413, 476
Museum of the Galician People (Santiago): 363–364
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Barcelona): 48, 118–120
Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport (Barcelona): 118
Museu Picasso (Barcelona): 48, 85–93; eating near, 148–149; map, 86
Mutriku: 214–215
National Archaeological Museum (Madrid): 412, 475
Naval Museum (Madrid), 413, 474; (San Sebastián), 201; (Sevilla), 713
Navarre, Museum of (Pamplona): 283
Nerja: 841–860; eating, 855–859; helpful hints, 846; map, 844–845; nightlife, 853; sights/activities, 847–853; sleeping, 853–855; tourist information, 842; tours, 846; transportation, 842–843, 846, 859–860
Nerja Caves: 852
Nerja Museum: 848
New Bridge (Ronda): 806, 811–812
Nightlife: budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Notre-Dame d’Aranazau Chapel (Ainhoa): 263
Notre-Dame Gate (St-Jean-de-Luz): 272
Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 424–425
Nun goodies: 682
Ocean Village (Gibraltar): 874, 880, 883
O’Hara’s Battery (Gibraltar): 878
Old Bridge (Ronda): 816
Old City (Barcelona): 33–34, 76–85; eating, 141–147; maps, 53, 78–79, 134–135, 142–143; nightlife, 129–130; self-guided walks, 51–76; sights, 76–85; sleeping, 132–136
Old Maro Bridge (Nerja): 853
Old Town (Arcos): 791, 796–802; eating, 804–805; maps, 797; nightlife, 802; sleeping, 802–803
Old Town (Bilbao): 221, 231–232; eating, 236–237; map, 233; sleeping, 234–235
Old Town (Granada): 613–621; eating, 661–664; map, 614; self-guided walk, 613–621; sights, 638–645; sleeping, 654–655
Old Town (Ronda): 806, 812–817; eating, 821, 823–824; sleeping, 818–820
Old Town (San Sebastián): 190, 195–200; eating, 207–209; map, 198–199; sleeping, 205–206
Old Town (Tangier): See Medina
Olive oil tour, around Granada: 612–613
Olympic and Sports Museum (Barcelona): 118
Olympic Stadium (Barcelona): 117
Orreaga: 276–277
Packing tips and checklist: 26, 1019
Paella feast, in Nerja: 859
Palace del Mayorazgo (Arcos): 800
Palace of Catalan Music (Barcelona): 48, 93, 128
Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra (Ronda): 815
Palacio de Cibeles (Madrid): 475
Palacio de Dar al-Horra (Granada): 650
Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Sevilla): 674, 716–717
Palacio de la Madrassa (Granada): 617–618
Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra (Ronda): 815
Palacio de Mondragón (Ronda): 813–814
Palacio de Sobrellano (Comillas): 339
Palacio de Viana (Córdoba): 777–779
Palacio Real: See Royal Palace
Palacios Nazaríes (Granada): 621, 629–635; map, 629
Palau de la Generalitat (Barcelona): 74
Palau de la Música Catalana (Barcelona): 48, 93
Palau de la Virreina (Barcelona): 127
Palau del Lloctinent (Barcelona): 76
Palau Güell (Barcelona): 48, 61, 77
Palau Maricel (Sitges): 180
Palau Reial Major (Barcelona): 75–76
Pallozas: 331–332
Pamplona: 268, 279–295; eating, 293–295; festivals, 279, 288–289; helpful hints, 282; map, 280–281; self-guided walk, 283–287; sights, 287–291; sleeping, 292–293; tourist information, 279; transportation, 282, 295
Pamplona Airport: 282
Pamplona City Hall: 283–284
Pamplona Running of the Bulls: See Running of the Bulls
Pantéon Real (León): 322–323
Paradores: 971, 974–975; Arcos de la Frontera, 803, 804; Granada, 601, 636–637, 658; Santiago de Compostela, 365, 370–371; Santillana, 337; Toledo, 601
Parc de la Ciutadella (Barcelona): 123
Pariès (Bayonne): 256
Park Güell (Barcelona): 35, 48, 109–113; map, 110–111
Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid): 413, 474
Partal Gardens (Granada): 635
Parte Vieja (San Sebastián): See Old Town
Paseo de la Alameda (Tarifa): 893
Paseo de la Castellana (Madrid): 478–479
Paseo de los Carabineros (Nerja): 850
Paseo de los Tristes (Granada): 619–620, 661
Paseo Marítimo (Tarifa): 892, 896
Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona): 35, 38, 42–43, 54, 126–127; eating, 150–151; sleeping, 136–137
Passeig del Born (Barcelona): 126, 129
Pastas Caseras Beatriz (Pamplona): 284, 295
Patios: overview, 778
Patio de Arrayanes (Granada): 630
Patio de Banderas (Sevilla): 682–683, 708
Patio de la Montería (Sevilla): 701
Patio de las Doncellas (Sevilla): 703–704
Patio de las Muñecas (Sevilla): 705
Patio de los Leones (Granada): 632
Patio de los Naranjos (Córdoba): 763
Patio de los Naranjos (Sevilla): 697–698
Patio de los Reyes (El Escorial): 519–520
Pazo de Xelmírez (Santiago): 360
Pedrafita: 330
Pedro I’s Palace (Sevilla): 703–706
Peinado (Joaquín) Museum (Ronda): 814–815
Peine del Viento (San Sebastián): 204
Pelota: 246, 251, 255, 263, 270
Pensiones: overview, 974
Petit Socco (Tangier): 924
Philip’s Seat: 527–528
Phones: See Telephones
Picasso, Pablo: 65, 68–69, 165, 230, 465–466, 953; biographical sketch, 90–91; Guernica, 216, 217, 218, 469–471; guided tours, in Barcelona, 46; Museo Picasso Málaga, 863; Museum (Barcelona), 48, 85–93; Reina Sofía (Madrid), 468–471
Picasso Tower (Madrid): 479
Pickpockets: 27, 39–40, 52, 405, 610, 650, 964–965
Picos de Europa: 340–343
Pieros: 278
Pileta Cave: 817–818
Pilgrimage and Santiago Museum: 363
Pilgrimage to Saint James: See Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim Friends Office (St-Jean-de-Luz): 271–272
Pilgrims, Office for (Santiago): 352
Piments d’Espelette: 185, 256, 263
Pintxos: 140–141, 144, 146–149, 151, 207–211, 235–237; glossary of terms, 211
Plaça de Catalunya (Barcelona): 32–33, 39, 54, 131; eating, 144; sleeping near, 131–132
Plaça del Pi (Barcelona): 126
Plaça del Rei (Barcelona): 75–76
Plaça de Sant Jaume (Barcelona): 74
Plaça Nova (Barcelona): 68–69
Plaça Reial (Barcelona): 60–61, 128, 129–130
Plaça Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona): 72–73
Place de la Kasbah (Tangier): 931–932
Place Louis XIV (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242–243
Placeta de San Gregorio (Granada): 646–647
Placeta de San Miguel Bajo (Granada): 650, 659–660
Plage de Corniche (Tangier): 932
Plague Monument (Córdoba): 771
Planelles Donat (Barcelona): 64
Playa Calahonda (Nerja): 850
Playa Carabeillo (Nerja): 850–851
Playa Carabeo (Nerja): 850–851
Playa Chica (Tarifa): 892
Playa de Burriana (Nerja): 851, 859
Playa de la Concha (San Sebastián): 189, 190, 202, 206–207
Playa del Cantarriján (Nerja): 851
Playa del Salón (Nerja): 850, 859
Playa el Chucho (Nerja): 850
Playa la Torrecilla (Nerja): 850
Playas Laga (Lequeitio): 215
Plaza de Anaya (Salamanca): 383
Plaza de Bib-Rambla (Granada): 616–617
Plaza de Castilla (Madrid): 479
Plaza de Colon (Madrid): 479
Plaza de Doña Elvira (Sevilla): 687
Plaza de España (Arcos): 802
Plaza de España (Madrid): 434
Plaza de España (Medina Sidonia): 838–839
Plaza de España (Sevilla): 668, 724, 737
Plaza de Isabel II (Madrid): 426–427, 485
Plaza de la Alianza (Sevilla): 687
Plaza de la Constitución (San Sebastián): 196
Plaza de la Encarnación (Sevilla): 717
Plaza de las Tendillas (Córdoba): 776–777
Plaza de la Trinidad (Granada): 657
Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes (Sevilla): 680–681
Plaza del Ayuntamiento (Toledo): 569
Plaza del Azogüejo (Segovia): 534–535
Plaza del Cabildo (Arcos): 796–797
Plaza del Carmen (Madrid): 494
Plaza del Castillo (Pamplona): 279, 286–287, 293
Plaza del Conde (Toledo): 570, 595
Plaza del Corillo (Salamanca): 380
Plaza del Ingenio (Frigiliana): 860
Plaza del Mío Cid (Burgos): 308
Plaza de los Venerables (Sevilla): 686–687
Plaza del Salvador (Sevilla): 716, 734
Plaza del Socorro (Ronda): 821
Plaza del Triunfo (Sevilla): 682
Plaza de Oriente (Madrid): 426, 505
Plaza de San Martín (León): 324–325
Plaza de San Martín (Segovia): 535–537
Plaza de Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 685
Plaza de Toros (Madrid): 481–482
Plaza de Toros (Pamplona): 284–286
Plaza de Toros (Sevilla): 728
Plaza de Zocodover (Toledo): 557, 565–568, 572, 595; eating, 602–603; sleeping, 597, 600
Plaza Isabel La Católica (Granada): 618–619
Plaza Larga (Granada): 649, 659
Plaza Mayor (Burgos): 307–308
Plaza Mayor (León): 318
Plaza Mayor (Madrid): 413, 418–420; eating, 504–506; map, 416–417; shopping, 483–484; sleeping, 494, 495–496
Plaza Mayor (Salamanca): 374, 376–377, 380; eating, 395–396
Plaza Mayor (Segovia): 533, 538; eating, 546; nightlife, 547; sleeping near, 544
Plaza Nueva (Bilbao): 237
Plaza Nueva (Granada): 607–608, 619; eating, 661–663; sleeping, 654–655
Plaza Nueva (Sevilla): 668, 714, 731; eating near, 749–750
Plaza San Isidoro (León): 316–317
Plaza San Marcelo (León): 315–316
Ponce de León, Juan: 944
Port Lligat: 176–178
Post offices: 993. See also specific destinations
Potes: 341–342
Pound sterling: 870–871
Prado Museum (Madrid): 447–463; eating near, 498–499; map, 452–453; orientation, 412, 449–450; self-guided tour, 450–463; sights near, 474–476; sleeping near, 494
Praza da Inmaculada (Santiago): 360
Praza da Quintana (Santiago): 361
Praza das Praterías (Santiago): 361–362
Praza do Obradoiro (Santiago): 351–352, 360
Pronovias (Madrid): 430
Pronunciation guide: 1020
Puente de Isabel II (Sevilla): 724–725
Puente del Carbón (Granada): 615
Puente la Reina: 268, 278, 296–297
Puente Nuevo (Ronda): 806, 811–812
Puente Viejo (Ronda): 816
Puerta del Perdón (Sevilla): 698
Puerta del Sol (Madrid): 402, 412, 415–418; eating, 505–506; map, 416–417; sleeping near, 490–491, 494–495
Puerta del Vino (Granada): 637
Puerta Nueva (Granada): 650
Puerto Banús: 865
Puig i Cadafalch, Josep: 65, 68, 98, 100, 121–122, 146, 165
Pyrenees: 279
Quadrat d’Or (Barcelona): 35, 126–127
Queen Isabella: See Isabel
Queensway Quay Marina (Gibraltar): 880–881, 884
Rabat (Morocco): 939
Rail passes: 23, 25, 994, 996–997, 998, 1006
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rambla of Flowers (Barcelona): 57–58
Rambla of the Little Birds (Barcelona): 56
Ramblas (Barcelona): 34, 48, 52, 54–55, 60, 77; eating, 141–145; guided tours, 46; map, 53; self-guided walk, 52–63; sights, 77, 80; sleeping, 132–133
Ratón Pérez (Madrid): 429–430
Raval (Barcelona): 34, 61, 94–95; eating, 95; nightlife, 95
Real Fábrica de Tapices (Madrid): 475–476
Real Jardín Botánico (Madrid): 413, 463
Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda: 809–811
Reconquista: overview, 943–945
Reial Cercle Artistic Museum (Barcelona): 68
Reina Sofía (Madrid): 412, 466–474
Renaixença: 99. See also Modernisme
RENFE: See Train travel
Rental properties: 972–973, 975–978; Barcelona, 137
ReservaTauro: 818
Reservations: sights, 25–26; sleeping, 24, 976–977
Resources from Rick Steves: 1006–1007
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Retiro Park (Madrid): 413, 474
Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
Rif Cinema (Tangier): 922, 933
Rio Chillar (Nerja): 852
Roast suckling pig: 311, 394, 497, 535, 545–546, 988
Rock of Gibraltar: 865, 874–880
Roma (Gypsies), of Granada: 653
Roman aqueducts: See Aqueducts, Roman
Roman Bridge (Córdoba): 771
Roman Bridge (Salamanca): 384
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 314, 628, 941–942; Arcos, 798, 800; Barcelona, 56, 63, 68, 69, 70, 74, 75; Córdoba, 771, 774–775, 777; Itálica, 727; Lugo, 334, 335; Salmanca, 384; Segovia, 532, 533, 534–535
Roman Temple (Córdoba): 777
Romero de Torres (Julio) Museum (Córdoba): 777
Roncesvalles: 268, 276–277, 278
Ronda: 794, 805–827; eating, 821–825; helpful hints, 808; maps, 807, 822; sights, 809–818; sleeping, 818–821; tourist information, 806, 808; tours, 809; transportation, 808, 825–827
Ronda Gorge: 806, 811–812, 816
Ronda Guitar House: 816–817
Rosemary scam, in Sevilla: 673
Route of the White Hill Towns: 790; map, 826–827
Royal Academy of Science and Arts (Barcelona): 56
Royal Alcázar (Sevilla): 668, 699–708; guided tours, 676–677, 699–700; map, 700; orientation, 674, 699–700; self-guided tour, 700–708
Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art (Jerez): 834–835
Royal Botanical Garden (Madrid): 413, 463
Royal Chapel (Córdoba): 767–768
Royal Chapel (Granada): 613, 618, 638–642
Royal Chapel (Madrid): 443
Royal Chapel (Sevilla): 697
Royal Chapel Square (Granada): 617–618
Royal families of Spain: 428–429
Royal Library (El Escorial): 520–521
Royal Palace (Barcelona): 75–76
Royal Palace (Madrid): 425, 434–446; map, 436; orientation, 412, 435; self-guided tour, 437–446
Royal Pantheon (El Escorial): 524–525
Royal Pantheon (León): 322–323
Royal St. Mary’s Church (O Cebreiro): 332–333
Royal Tapestry Factory (Madrid): 475–476
Royal Theater (Madrid): 426
Rúa do Franco (Santiago): 350, 369
Rubens, Peter Paul: 196, 360, 447, 459, 465
Rue de la République (St-Jean-de-Luz): 243, 249
Rue d’Espagne (St-Jean-de-Luz): 272
Rue Gambetta (St-Jean-de-Luz): 245–246
Running of the Bulls (Pamplona): 279, 283, 288–289, 1010; Monument, 286
Rusiñol, Santiago: 180
Sabater Hermanos (Barcelona): 73
Sacred Art Museum (Santiago): 361
Sacred Cave (Montserrat): 165–166
Sacromonte (Granada): 621, 651–652
Safety: See Theft alerts
Sagrada Família (Barcelona): 102–109; map, 103; orientation, 48, 102–104; self-guided tour, 104–109
Sahagún: 314
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier): 922
Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne): 255–256
St. Ginès Church (Madrid): 427
St. Jean-Baptiste Church (St-Jean-de-Luz): 246–248
St-Jean-de-Luz: 182, 238–251; eating, 249–250; helpful hints, 240–241; map, 244–245; self-guided walk, 242–248; sleeping, 248–249; tourist information, 239; tours, 241–242; transportation, 240, 250–251
St-Jean-Pied-de-Port: 268, 269–273
“St. John of the Monarchs” (Toledo): 560, 571, 593–595
St. Martin’s Monastery (Santiago): 360
St. Matthew Church (Tarifa): 887, 890
St. Michael’s Cave (Gibraltar): 878–879
St. Pelayo Monastery (Santiago): 361
Salamanca: 17, 373–397; eating, 394–397; helpful hints, 376; itineraries, 373–374; maps, 374, 378–379, 392–393; self-guided walk, 376–385; sights, 376–390; sleeping, 391–394; tourist information, 375; transportation, 375–376, 397
Salamanca Art Nouveau Museum: 389–390
Salamanca Cathedral: 383, 386–388
Salamanca Town Hall: 377
Salamanca University: 381–383, 385–386
Samos: 333
San Agustín Market (Granada): 662–663
San Antonio de la Florida Hermitage (Madrid): 413, 476–477
San Antonio of Padua Church (Frigiliana): 862
San Antón Market (Madrid): 507
San Bartolomé Church (Granada): 649
San Bartolomé Fort (Pamplona): 291
San Cristóbal Viewpoint (Granada): 649
Sandeman (Jerez): 837
San Esteban Church (Salamanca): 385, 388–389
San Fermín Txikito (Pamplona): 279, 282
San Gregorio Church (Granada): 647
San Ildefonso Palace (near Segovia): 543–544
San Isidoro Church (León): 316–317
San Isidoro Museum (León): 322–323
San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio (Toledo): 560, 571, 593–595
San Lorenzo Church (Pamplona): 291
San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 516–528, 955; maps, 517, 520
San Miguel Market (Madrid): 421–422, 505
San Nicolás Church (Burgos): 307
San Nicolás Island: 215
San Nicolás Viewpoint (Granada): 613, 645–648
San Pablo Airport (Sevilla): 672
San Pedro Church (Granada): 621
San Pedro de Alcántara: 865
San Pedro’s Church (Arcos): 800–801
San Román Church (Toledo): 585–587
San Salvador Church (Nerja): 848
San Saturnino Church (Pamplona): 290–291
San Sebastián: 182, 189–214; eating, 207–213; helpful hints, 192–194; itineraries, 189–190; maps, 192–193, 198–199; nightlife, 210–211; sights, 195–205; sleeping, 205–207; tourist information, 190–191; tours, 194–195; transportation, 191–192, 194, 213–214
San Sebastián Airport: 191
San Sebastián Aquarium: 201
San Sebastián Card: 190–191
San Sebastián Port: 200–202
Santa Ana Church (Granada): 619
Santa Ana Church (Sevilla): 726
Santa Anna Church (Barcelona): 64–65
Santa Catalina de Zafra (Granada): 621
Santa Caterina Market (Barcelona): 49, 69–70, 93–94, 149
Santa Cova (Montserrat): 165–166
Santa Cruz (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo): 560, 567, 572–574
Santa Eulàlia (Barcelona): 63, 80
Santa Isabel Convent (Granada): 650
Santa María Church (Arcos): 797–799
Santa María Church (Cadaqués): 175–176
Santa María del Mar Church (Barcelona): 49, 94
Santa María del Pi (Barcelona): 59, 129
Santa María la Blanca Synagogue (Toledo): 571, 593
Santa María la Mayor Church (Ronda): 812–813
Santa María la Real (O Cebreiro): 332–333
Sant Antoni Market (Barcelona): 94
Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla Church (Sitges): 180
San Telmo Museoa (San Sebastián): 196–197
Sant Felip Neri Church (Barcelona): 72
Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao): 231
Santiago de Compostela: 15, 17, 269, 344–372; eating, 369–372; festivals, 349; helpful hints, 349–350; itineraries, 345; maps, 346–347, 366–367; shopping, 349–350; sights, 350–365; sleeping, 365–368; tourist information, 345, 348; transportation, 348–349, 372
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral: 350–356; Museum, 357–360
Santiago de Compostela City Hall: 352
Santiago de Compostela University: 352
Santillana del Mar: 336–337
Santiponce: 727
Sant Joan Chapel (Montserrat): 165
Sant Joan Funicular (Montserrat): 165
Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 269, 300
Santo Domingo de Silos: 309
Santo Tomé (Toledo): 560, 567, 570, 587–589, 603–604
Sants Train Station (Barcelona): 38, 154–156
San Vicente Basilica (Ávila): 552–553
Sare (Sara): 262–263
Sartre, Jean-Paul: 336
Scala Coeli (Salamanca): 385
Schweppes (Madrid): 433–434
Segovia: 531–548; eating, 545–547; helpful hints, 533; map, 536–537; nightlife, 547; self-guided walk, 534–538; sights, 538–544; sleeping, 544–545; tourist information, 532; transportation, 532–533, 547–548
Segovia Cathedral: 538–540
Semana Santa: See Holy Week
Seneca: 774–775
Sephardic Jewish Museum (Toledo): 560, 571, 590–592
Serrano, Juan: 776–777
Sevilla: 14, 666–755; at a glance, 674; arrival in, 669, 672; eating, 743–752; experiences, 727–729; festivals, 672–673, 678–679, 728–729, 1010; helpful hints, 672–673; itineraries, 668; maps, 667, 670–671, 680, 732–733, 740–741, 744–745; nightlife, 735–738; orientation, 668; self-guided walk, 678–687; shopping, 730–735; sights, 688–727; sleeping, 738–743; tourist information, 669; tours, 676–677; transportation, 669, 673, 675, 752–755
Sevilla April Fair: 673, 728–729, 1010
Sevilla Cathedral: 688–698; map, 689; orientation, 674, 688–689; self-guided tour, 690–698
Sevilla City Hall: 714
Sevilla Fine Arts Museum: 674, 718–721
Sevilla University: 724
Ship Room (Granada): 630
Shopping: clothing sizes, 1016; hours, 961; VAT refunds, 966. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Siege Tunnels (Gibraltar): 879
Sierra de Atapuerca Mountains: 309
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park: 828, 829
Sierra-Pambley Museum (León): 321–322
Sightseeing (sights): budgeting, 23; general tips, 967–969; maps and navigation tools, 967; reservations, 25–26; top destinations, 11–18; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21. See also Itineraries; specific sights and destinations
Silla de Felipe II: 527–528
Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo): 560, 571, 590–592
Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca (Toledo): 571, 593
Sitges: 179–180
Sleep code: 970
Sleeping: 969–978; online resources, 972–973; rates and deals, 970–971; reservations, 24, 976–977; types of accommodations, 971–978. See also Paradores; and specific destinations
Smartphones: 26, 989–991. See also Apps
Sobrino del Botín (Madrid): 497
Soccer: 943; Barcelona, 55, 126; Madrid, 430, 479, 482
Solbes (San Sebastián): 212
Sorolla (Joaquín) Museum (Madrid): 412, 477
South Coast: See Costa del Sol
Spanish Basque Country: 188–237; cuisine, 8, 184–185, 207; map, 184–185
Spanish Civil War: 301; guided tours, in Barcelona, 51; overview, 530, 942, 948
Spanish guitars: concerts, 129, 485, 776–777, 802, 816–817; shopping for, 484, 655
Spanish Inquisition: about, 419; overview, 522, 955
Spanish language: See Language
Spanish restaurant phrases: 1022
Spanish survival phrases: 1021
Special events: See Festivals
Stairway to Heaven (Salamanca): 385
Stradivarius (Antonius) Room (Madrid): 443
Subway: See Metro
Tabakalera International Culture Center (San Sebastián): 204–205
Tajo River Gorge: 592, 601, 806, 811–812, 816
Tales of the Alhambra (Irving): 634 1013
TALGO: See Train travel
Tangier (Morocco): 18, 910–938; arrival in, 913–914; eating, 936–938; excursions from Tarifa, 886–887; ferries, 899–900, 905–906, 913–914; helpful hints, 914–916; itineraries, 911; maps, 912, 918; nightlife, 932–933; orientation, 911–913; sights/activities, 919–932; sleeping, 933–935; tourist information, 913; tours, 916–919; transportation, 913–914
Tangier American Legation Museum (Morocco): 928–930
Tangier Anglican Church (Morocco): 922
Tangier Beach and Marina (Morocco): 932
Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport (Morocco): 914
Tapas: 982–986; glossary of terms, 211, 984–985. See also Pintxos; and specific destinations
Tarifa: 885–900; eating, 895–898; ferries, 899–900, 905–906, 913–914; helpful hints, 886–887; map, 888–889; nightlife, 893; sights/activities, 887–892; sleeping, 893–895; tourist information, 886; transportation, 886, 898–900
Taverna Basca Irati (Barcelona): 59, 141
Taxes, VAT refunds: 966
Taxis: 999–1000; tipping, 965. See also specific destinations
Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres): 167–171
Teleféricos: See Funiculars
Telefónica (Madrid): 432–433
Telephones: 989–992; France, 240; Gibraltar, 871; Morocco, 902
Temperatures, average monthly: 1017
Temple of Augustus (Barcelona): 75
Temple of Debod (Madrid): 477
Teresa of Ávila, Saint: 548, 552–554, 686, 944
Terrorism Memorial (Madrid): 509–510
Theft alerts: 27, 960, 964–965; Barcelona, 39–40, 52; Granada, 610, 650; Madrid, 405
Third of May, 1808 (Goya): 72, 461–462
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid): 412, 463–466
Tiepolo, Giambattista: 438, 439, 441, 444, 445
Time zones: 960–961; Morocco, 902, 906
Tinell Hall (Barcelona): 85
Tío Pepe González Byass (Jerez): 837
Tipping: 965, 981–982; Morocco, 902
Titian: 120, 457–458, 460, 523, 524, 583, 584
Toledo: 17, 556–605; at a glance, 560; arrival in, 559–561; eating, 601–604; helpful hints, 561; history of, 566; itineraries, 556–557; maps, 558, 562–563, 598–599; nightlife, 561; self-guided walks, 564–571; shopping, 596–597; sights, 572–596; sleeping, 597–601; tourist information, 558–559; tours, 564; transportation, 559–561, 604–605
Toledo Bell Tower: 585
Toledo Cathedral: 560, 569, 578–585; map, 579
Toledo City Hall: 569
Tormes River: 384
Torre del Oro (Sevilla): 713
Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 420–421
Torremolinos: 864
Torres de La Clerecía (Salamanca): 385
Tour guides: tipping, 965. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 959–960. See also specific destinations
Tourist trains: Cadaqués, 173–174; Granada, 612, 846; San Sebastián, 195; St-Jean-de-Luz, 241; Toledo, 564
Tours: Rick Steves, 1006. See also specific destinations
Trafalgar cemetery (Gibraltar): 871, 873
Train travel: 993–999; budgeting, 23; map, 994–995; tickets, 997–999; types of trains, 993–996. See also specific destinations
Tránsito Synagogue (Toledo): 560, 571, 590–592
Transparente (Toledo): 582–583
Transportation: 993–1006; budgeting, 23; map, 994–995; pre-booking, 25. See also Boat travel and cruises; and specific destinations
Travel advisories, in Morocco: 902
Travel insurance: 26, 1001–1002
Travel smarts: 27–28
Travel tips: 960–961
Treasury (Córdoba): 768
Treasury (Sevilla): 696–697, 722–723
Treasury (Toledo): 584–585
Triana (Sevilla): 674, 724–727; eating, 751–752
Trip costs: 23
Triumphal Arch (Córdoba): 771
Tuna music, in Salamanca: 377, 380
Universidad Pontificia (Comillas): 339
University of Salamanca: 381–383, 385–386
University of Sevilla: 724
Valdevaqueros: 892
Valley of the Fallen (Valle de los Caídos): 528–531
VAT refunds: 966
Vejer de la Frontera: 839
Velázquez, Diego: 88, 92, 120, 583, 713–714, 719, 835, 953, 1015; Prado Museum (Madrid), 456–457
Vera Cruz Church (near Segovia): 452–543
Vicente (Esteban) Museum (Segovia): 542
Viceroy’s Palace (Barcelona): 76
Victorio Macho Museum (Toledo): 560, 571, 592–593
Villafranca del Bierzo: 269, 278, 329–331
Villa Lucía (La Rioja): 299
Villaviciosa Chapel (Córdoba): 766–767
Virgen de la Antigua (Sevilla): 694
Virgin Mary’s Gate (Burgos): 308
Virgin of Dolores (Zahara): 828
Virgin of the Rock (Biarritz): 261
Visigothic Mosaic (Córdoba): 765
Visigothic Museum (Toledo): 560, 585–587
Visigothic Ruins (Toledo): 765
Visitor information: 959–960. See also specific destinations
Walking trails: See Hiking
Washington Irving Room (Granada): 634
Weeping Virgin (Sevilla): 674, 722–723
Whale watching, in Tarifa: 891
White hill towns of Andalucía: 17, 790–839; at a glance, 794; maps, 792–793, 826–827
Windsurfing: 839, 892; Tarifa, 885, 892, 898
Wine and vineyards: Rioja, 268, 298–299. See also Sherry
Wine Gate (Granada): 637
Women in Morocco: 920
World Expo Fairgrounds (Barcelona): 35, 121–122
World Trade Center (Barcelona): 157
World War II Tunnels (Gibraltar): 880
Yeguada de la Cartuja: 838
Yemas: 554
Ysios: 299
Zahara de la Sierra: 794, 828–829
Zambra dance, in Granada: 652
Zapatero, José Luis Rodríguez: 949
Zarautz: 215
Zoco Municipal (Córdoba): 774
Zubiri: 278
Zumaia: 215