Figures in italics indicate captions; col. pl. indicates colour plates.
A. Lovell & Co. 96–7
Abba 246
Abbotts Phitt-Easy Ltd 142
Aberdeen, Lord 52
Aberdeen Trust plc 314
Abingdon School 335
Académie Moderne, Paris 151
Adelaide 56, 104, 189, 203, 230
Adidas 247
Admiralty 155
advertising
Glastonbury Tor trademark 3
Clarks’ initial attitude to 5
holders of the Clarks advertising account 5
newspaper 57–8, 164, 181, 219, 253–4
Clarks’ first advertising campaign 115
Clarks’ first national advertising campaign 151
trade catalogues 151
celebrities 5, 152–4, 181–2, 181, 182
in-shop 179
Clarks advertises on Soviet State television 201
cinema commercials 216
television commercials with a James Bond theme 216–17
Hobson & Grey 252
Collett Dickenson Pearce 252–4
promotion of the Desert Boot 289–90
Parker committed to increased advertising 342
Portas’s magazine ad campaigns 356
continued investment in 357
importance of 358
see also ‘showcards’
aeroplane parts 155
A. J. Bull 276
Al-Fayed, Mohamed 333
Albert, Prince Consort 41–2
alcohol 3, 9, 18, 35–7, 50, 91, 171, 193, 239
Alexander, Mr (schoolmaster) 124
Allen and Hanbury 24
Amalgamated Cordwainers Association 84
Ambur, India 334
American Civil War (1861–5) 48, 69
Amies, Sir Hardy 218, 219, 225
Anatomical range 99; col. pl. 2
Andy Imprint Rangnoddye 246
Anglican Church 10
see also Church of England
Anne, HRH The Princess Royal 233
Anti-Corn Law League 78
anti-slavery movement 33
Any Questions (television programme) 217
apprenticeships
James Clark apprenticed to brother Cyrus 1, 2, 14–16, 19
and their masters’ drinking 36–7
apprentices from Muller’s Orphanage, Bristol 83
Hugh Clark 114
Ara 297
Arena magazine 290
army shoes, nailing of 47
Arons, Bob 187–8
Art Deco 137
Arundel Advertising Company 115
Arup 348
Ashcroft, Richard 342
Asia 350
Askam factory, Cumbria 307, 339
Atlas Shoes of Nicosia 243–4
Attenborough, Richard 241
Austen, Jane: Emma 153
col. pl. 7
Australasia 187
Australia
Cyrus considers emigrating to 39
dip in Clarks’ trade to 56, 97
credit issue 56
outlet for surplus stock 56
imposes tariffs on foreign goods 97
tension between agents 97
limited range of footwear offered to Australians 97
first adult Clarks shoe made in (Desert Boot) 186
formation of Clarks Australia Ltd 188
Nathan’s ‘shilly shallying’ in 190
Clarks’ acquisitions in 203
Raymond Footwear Components bought 231
Clarks retailing failing 284
Australian Shoe Corporation 230
export of cheap shoes to Britain 94–5
Automobile Association 345
Auxiliary Territorial Service 155
Avalon Components 307
Avalon Engineering 234
Avalon Industries Ltd 209, 210, 226, 239, 270, 287, 295
Avalon Leather Board Company 90–91, 147, 148–50, 161, 170, 209
Avalon Shoe Supplies Ltd 209
Avengers, The (television series) 217
Avis RentaCar 349
Babycham 320
Bagehot, Walter 62–3
Baird’s (bootmaker) 230
balance of payments crisis (1966) 225
Bally factory, Schoenenwerd, Switzerland 144–5
Balogh, Lord 242–3
Bancroft, Samuel 105
Banque Hunziker 311
Bantham, South Devon 170
Barbarys 236
Barber, Laurence: Clarks of Street, 1825–1950 28, 36–7, 71, 113, 135–6, 138, 173
Barcelona, Spain 175
Barnstaple, Devon 171, 298, 299, 307, 343
Bates Worldwide 307
Baxter, Stanley 216
Bay City Rollers 246
Overseas Monitoring Service 201
Bear Coffee House (now Bear Inn), Street, Somerset 3, 91, 93, 177, 237
Beard, Freda col. pl. 3
Beaumont Leys, Leicester 277
Beckham, David col. pl. 13
Belgians, King of the (Léopold I) 41
Belle Epoque era (1890–1914) 102
Bellers, John 89
Benetton 328
Benn, Tony 243
Bennetts, Ben Messer 331
Bent, Annie 124
Benton & Bowles 252
Berisford International plc 314–20, 322–4, 343, 354, 359
Bermuda 232
Berners Street, London 242
Berry, Stanley F. 216
bespoke shoes 18, 29, 44, 57, 59
Biba 246
Bid Committee 314
binders 30
see also closers
binding 30
Birch, Philip 266
Blachford Shoe Manufacturing Company Ltd 202–3
Black & Decker 328
Blackman, Honor 217
Blahnik, Manolo 102
Blake, Lyman 69
Blake Sole Sewer 69–70
Blitz magazine 290
Blue Lias limestone 8
Blue Ribbon Sports 247
Bo Ningen 357
Board of Trade 59, 155, 158, 159, 177, 214
Boardman, Nigel 313
Boase Massimi Pollitt 289–90
Bolan, Marc 246
Bolliger, Peter 333, 338, 339, 346, 347, 349, 350, 351
Bombay Light col. pl. 15
Boot & Shoe Manufacturers’ Federation 137–8
Boot and Shoe Association 221
Boot and Shoe Industry Working Party Report 176
Bootham School, York 46, 47, 94, 103, 114, 166
boots
hand-welted 18
Gentlemen’s Pump Boots 41
rubberised 45
goloshed 56
range of sizes and fittings in ladies’ boots 59
flying 155
see also under individual boot names
Bostock, Edwin 85
Bostock, Harry 113
Bostock, John Walter
introduced by his cousin to Clarks 113
issue of non-family members securing promotions 116, 135
on slip in standards 134–5
emphasis on quality 136
depicting the word Clarks in handwritten style 150
wooden-soled footwear 158–9
retirement 167
and footgauge 176
and foot measurement during the war 177
Bostock, Thomas 112
Bostock, William 112
Bostock family 111–12
Boston, Massachusetts 112, 165
Boston Consulting Group 232–3, 274, 275, 295
Bostonian Shoe Company 245, 327, 339, 346
Bournville, Birmingham 89
Bowerman, Bill 247
Bowie, David 246
Bowkett, Alan 315, 318, 319, 325
‘Bowler’ 247
Bowlingreen Mill, Somerset 78, 150
Boyce, David 208
Boyce, Samuel 49
Boyd Henderson, William 124–5
Strode School 125
‘Boy’s Derby Balmoral’ boot 95
Bracher, Alan 318, 320–21, 325
Bracher Rawlins 318
Bradshaw, George 24
Bradshaw’s Railway Times 24
Braithwaite, Charles: The Second Period of Quakerism 23, 89
Bramwell, Grant 312
Brasher, Chris 270
Breakfast (television programme) 236
Bridgwater, Somerset 11, 14, 39, 65, 109, 171
closing room in St John Street 167, 226
launch of full-scale factory 167
factory enlarged 167–8
Redgate factory opened 169
extra units built 170
factory closed 339
Briggs, Barry, MBE 251
Bright, Elizabeth (née Priestman) 78
Bright, Jacob 79
Bright, John, MP 78–9, 90, 107
Brisbane 56
Bristol 9, 13, 31, 86, 108, 141, 142, 160, 161, 217
Bristol Aeroplane Company 155
Bristol Evening World 181, 208
Bristol Friends 13
Britain Clarks’ sales in 4
col. pl. 16
Clarks’ dominance of children’s market 4–5
influx of cheap shoes from abroad 94–5, 232, 243, 274
north/south divide 133
shoe export statistics 133–4
exports to traditional markets 232
‘sick man of Europe’ 243
joins European Economic Community 244
footwear trade in doldrums 306
current UK turnover (year ending 31 January 2012) 352
Britannia 151
British and Foreign Bible Society 120
British Association for the Promotion of Temperance 36
British Council of Shopping Centres 328
British Footwear Manufacturers Federation 206, 235, 239, 296
British India Corporation 188
British Industries Fair (Olympia, London, 1949) 182
British Institute of Management 288
British Open Golf Championship 278
British School, Street (later Board School) 53, 92
British Shoe Corporation 239, 296
Clore forms 198
growing power and influence 211, 219
looks to source cheaper shoes from overseas 211
and the unbranded shoe market 211–12
and Clothier 213–14
criticism of 219–20
brands of 276
largest share of British footwear industry 306
collapse of 342
British Sugar 315
British Trade Journal 91
Britoil 288
Broadbent, Norman 326
Bromley, Kent 259
Bromley Registry Office, Kent 222
Brown & Green Ltd 215
Brown Petersburgs (‘Brown Peters’) 17–18
col. pl. 1
Brown Shoe Company 250
Bruggink, Marijke col. pl. 14
Brunei, Sultan of 302
Brunel, Marc Isambard 47
Bryant, Thomas 10
Bryant & May 24
Buckingham, Reverend 138
Buenos Aires 117
Buffalo 165
Bullmead warehouse, Street 224, 225, 232, 278–9, 347
Burt, Patricia (née Andrews) 192–3, 240
Burton Group 293
Bushacre factory, Weston-super-Mare 297, 298, 307
butadiene 173
Butlin, Honor (née Impey) 217
Butlin, John 217
C. & J. Clark
headquarters in Street 1, 3, 237, 239, 329, 337, 345, 359, 360
a Quaker company 1, 4, 241, 257, 325, 353
start of partnership (1833) 19–20
capital in the business 20
sales for first six months of partnership 20
product quality 29, 57, 59, 83, 87, 128, 134, 136, 158, 165, 195, 234, 280, 292, 299, 302, 303, 306, 313, 327, 357
productivity 31, 34, 43, 81–2, 132, 169–70, 229, 230, 279
overdraft with bank 35
and Crimean War 53
fittings/sizes 5, 59, 176, 179, 255, 279, 354
mismatches between output and sales 60–61, 93–4
financial crisis (1860–63) 62–6
William succeeds the partners 32, 66
rapid turnaround under William 67
number of lines produced 82
property owned by Clarks 90
sole agencies 98
becomes a private limited company (1903) 94, 108
first foray into retailing 108–11, 114
proud of its American influences 116
non-family senior staff issue 113, 116, 135, 203
centenary year of founding 130
response to recession 134
patriarchal, paternal tradition 134
acquires Lane & Robinson 141
Peter Lord Ltd set up 142
overseas trips of members of the board 144–6
‘Clarks’ registered as a trademark (1920s) 150
wartime government contracts 155
annual reports 169, 200, 203, 212, 270, 274, 300, 306, 308, 309, 327, 339, 346, 349
expansion 166–73, 200–203, 209, 213, 217, 229–30, 244
survey of Somerset schoolchildren 179
‘Style Centre’ 180
Overseas Division (OD) 184, 188–90
125th anniversary (1950) 193, 240
social responsibility 3, 206–8, 268, 281
threat from British Shoe Corporation 211
unbranded shoe market 211, 212
graduate trainees 221, 259, 275, 350, 352
management consultants 222–5, 232–4, 243, 303, 307–8
factories closed down 4, 226, 242, 264, 265, 280, 296–7, 299, 303, 333, 338–9, 343
150th anniversary 239–42, 240, 242
acquisition of K Shoes 266–70, 269
loss of £1.2 million (1982) 270
gulf between manufacturing and retailing 273, 294
retailing arm forms a complicated web of shops 274–5
launch of first Clarks shops (1984) 276–8, 277
a third of all shoes sold by Clarks bought in (by 1990) 297
Portuguese adventure 297–9
new management structure (from 1992) 305–6
share of British footwear industry 306, 327
Extraordinary General Meeting (1992) 308–14, 319
nearly sold to a financial consortium (1993) 4, 228, 314–24
Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 315
factory outlets sold to MEPC 329
Bolliger succeeds Parker 346
a wholesale and retail branded business 346
worldwide sales 352
see also Clarks factory, Street; technology; workforce
C. & J. Clark America Inc. 284
C. & J. Clark Continental Ltd 272
C. & J. Clark International 293
C. & J. Clark Properties 311
C. & J. Clark Retail Ltd 208–9, 229, 244, 250, 270, 295
C7 format 358
col. pl. 15
Cadburys 4, 24, 57, 89, 220, 320
Cairo 184
Caledonian Airways 288
California Last construction 164
Callaghan, James 225
Cambodia 354
Cambridge University 205, 231, 238, 261
Cameron, David 357
Canada 18, 32–3, 56, 202–3, 221, 352
Canterbury, New Zealand 56
Cape Town 98
car industry 133
Cardiff University 350
Carnegie Mellon Business School, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 250
Carr’s of Carlisle 24
Carter, Howard 137
Carvela shoes 333
Castelo de Paiva, Portugal 298
Castle Cary, Somerset 171, 209, 307
Catcott, Somerset 10
Cave & Son 98
CCNA see Clarks Companies North America
Cegmark International 284
celebrities 5, 137, 174, 181–2, 181, 182, 187, 193, 241–2, 278, 302
celluloid 155
Central Somerset Gazette 130, 147–8
Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) 118, 187
Chalet, The, Millfield School, Street 80
Chalice Hill, Glastonbury 8
Chalmers, Judith 241
Chamberlain, Neville 156
chamois leather 2, 14, 26–7, 61
Chanel 262
Character Shoes Ltd 197
Chariots of Fire (film) 247, 253
Charles, HRH The Prince of Wales 271
Charlton, Robert 39
‘Chase’ 250
Cheeseman, Dudley 334
Chelsea at Nine (television series) 216
Chelsea Boot 218
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire 180
Chicago Shoe Fair (1949) 186
child evacuees 156–7
Children’s Enamel Seal Ankle Straps 41
children’s footwear
showcards col. pl. 5
design policy col. pls. 10, 11
Clarks’ first range of children’s shoes 29
cheaper line urgently needed 136
children’s shoe production 151
children’s sandals 151, 159–60
Clarks Ireland Ltd 166
‘Play-ups’ made in Shepton Mallet factory 168
a Shepton Mallet factory dedicated to children’s shoes 170
Pedescope 176
every child in Street has feet measured 177
survey of Somerset schoolchildren 179
stocking all width fittings 179
in New Zealand 203
‘The Foot N0.1’ brochure 290
pressure on children’s division 290
number of styles (1980s) 290
Kalcher’s influence 291–2
children’s shoes central to Clarks’ business 292, 358
Harrods’ children’s shoe department 302
Parker on 338
range for crawling babies 344
Clarks universally recognised for measuring children’s feet properly 354
back-to-school market 358
children’s range of clothes 262–3
Child’s ‘Dress Anklet’ 82
China 4, 282, 308, 339, 346, 350, 354
Chong Hok Shan 308
Christian Science movement 126, 127
Chung Nam Group 308
Chupplee 184
Church, Dudley 196
Church of England 11
see also Anglican Church
Church’s 177
C.I.C. Engineering Ltd 209, 226, 227
Cica Blades range col. pl. 13
Citroën 261
City shoes 218
Civil Justice Review Advisory Committee 314
C.J.C. Savings Bank 122
Clarendon Code 10
Clark, Alfred (1885–1941) 210
Clark, Alfred S. (1828–1900) 12, 54, 56, 64, 74, 75
shareholdings 108
campaigns for women’s suffrage 119, 123
Closing Room 119
and Day Continuation School 123, 124, 125
studies at London School of Economics 126
and Christian Science movement 126, 127
and dispersal of company profits 126–7
resigns her Quaker membership 127
Roger Clark on 127
death 128
Working Life of Women in the Seventeenth Century 125–6
Clark, Ann (née Coaxley) 10
Clark, Annie 33
Clark, Bancroft see Clark, William Bancroft
Clark, Caroline (née Pease) 170
Clark, Cato (Catarina) (née Smuts) 140, 149, 205
partner with cousin in wool and tanning business 2, 13, 14
James apprenticed to 1, 2, 14–16, 19
and James’s slipper business 16–17
in partnership with James 2, 12, 13, 19–20
and financial problems 35, 37, 38–9
attitude to alcohol 35
personality 38
considers emigrating to Australia 39
on meeting the Queen and Prince Albert 41–2
and innovation in the company 47
loses a son due to typhoid 50
his house, Elmhurst 54, 54, 63
financial withdrawals for own benefit 54–5, 63, 64
commitment to quality 57, 59–60
acrimonious battle over his will 2, 71–8
Clark, Daniel 149, 242, 250, 263, 269
education 238
joins Clarks 238
visits Russia and Ukraine 201
in charge of Strode Components 209
managing director of Clarks Ltd 228, 229
chairman of C. & J. Clark Ltd 3, 238, 239, 240
personality 238
reiterates key values 241
Fiennes on 260
runs the company at a dispiriting time 265, 266, 270
and non-family managers 280
and resourcing abroad 280, 282
reminds family of its charitable commitment 281
stands down as chairman 287–8
Bancroft’s letter thanking him 288
and Henry Moore 305
treasurer of Bristol University 313
Extraordinary General Meeting (1992) 313
on Bid Committee 314
Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 322–3, 324
stands down as non-executive director 326
research and writing 326
Clark, Edith 33
Clark, Edward 48
Clark, Eileen 149
Clark, Eleanor (daughter of James) 33
Clark, Eleanor (née Stephens) 31, 32, 33, 52, 54, 72, 100, 149
Clark, Fanny 33
Clark, Florence 33
Clark, Frances (Fanny) (née Sturge) 12, 92
Clark, Francis Joseph (Frank) 33, 113, 113, 114, 115, 119, 146, 286
education 94
forms partnership with William (1889) 94
largest shareholder in the company 108
and costings 115
chairman of Clarks 3, 132, 137
on Tor brand 132–3
death 141
Clark, Giles 140
Clark, Gloria 331
Clark, H. Brooking 167
Clark, Hadwen 141
Clark, Helen Priestman (née Bright) 78, 80, 107, 110, 130, 149
Clark, Hugh 115, 150, 174, 331
education 114
joins Clarks 114
and John Walter Bostock 113, 114
war service 114
manager of the Machine Room 116
head of sales 114, 141, 143, 152, 159, 182
and lease on Mitre House 141
and purchase of Walwyns 142
Clarks’ first national advertising campaign 151
and Bebe Daniels 153–4
retirement from the Board 161
Bancroft on 162
interest in advertising and publicity 182–3
joins Rohan 293
non-executive director at C. & J. Clark Ltd 293
Clark, J. Anthony (Tony) 149, 231
made a director 141
on the superiority of American machinery 165
a member of ‘the Holy Trinity’ 170, 171
a ‘people person’ 170
a liberal Quaker 170–71
becomes a main board director 206
managing director of C. & J. Clark 215
meeting with Levison 215–16
commissions McKinsey & Co. 222–3
chairman of Clarks 3, 229, 285
reports drop in profits (1972) 232
on Boston Consulting Group reports 232
on Peter Clothier 235
rare interview 237–8
retirement 238
death 285
Bancroft on 285
born in Street (1811) 2
education 14
apprenticed in his brother Cyrus’s sheepskin business 1, 2, 14–16, 19
produces sheepskin slippers and socks 2, 16–18, 361
col. pl. 1
partnership with Cyrus 2, 12, 13, 19–20
and Quaker principles 22, 26, 38, 51–2
his house, Netherleigh 31, 33, 54, 304
first marriage 31–2
attitude to alcohol 35
opposition to his brothers’ corn business 37–8, 40
personality 38
and innovation in the company 47
loses a son due to typhoid 50, 51
financial withdrawals for own benefit 54–5, 63, 64
commitment to quality 57, 59–60
and wrangling over Cyrus’s will 71–8
forms partnership with William (1873) 80
death of first wife 100
second marriage 100
increasingly religious 101
death (1906) 101
Clark, James Edmund 33
Clark, Jan 149, 205, 229, 242, 244, 245, 269, 282, 283–5
Clark, Jane (née Bryant) 10–11
Clark, John H. 287
Clark, John, I 10
Clark, John, II 10
Clark, John, III 10
Clark, John Aubrey 12, 54, 57, 58, 74
Clark, John Bright 3, 98, 103, 105, 110, 119, 139, 171
education 103
worldwide business tour with Roger 103, 104
health 103
shareholdings 108
costings department 114
Hugh succeeds as head of sales 114
response to recession 134
non-family members issue 135
vice-chairman of Clarks 137
Boot & Shoe Manufacturers’ Federation 137–8
personality 138
Good Friday working issue 138–9
death (1933) 139
Clark, Joseph, I
birth (1762) 11
lives all his life in or around Street 11–12
marriage 12
health 12
covenants to assist James in his apprenticeship 15–16
Clark, Joseph, II
and wrangling over Cyrus’s will 74
Clark, Joseph Henry 50
Clark, Lancelot (Lance) 149, 186, 242, 258, 269, 280, 285, 300
education 204
and Bancroft 204
particular interest in how shoes are made 204
Wallabees 204
hosts 150th anniversary celebrations in London 241
and sports shoes 249
and advertising 254
determined to bring the company up to date 256
managing director of Clarks Ltd 265, 271, 272
and K Shoes 267
Cotton replaces 272
leaves the company but remains a non-executive director 293
proposed as chairman in letter to Tindale 301
Extraordinary General Meeting (1992) 308, 312–13
a member of the ‘Gang of Four’ 308
open letter signatory 316
Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 321–2
replaced by Ben Lovell 343
Clark, Mabel 33
Clark, Mary (née Metford) 11
Clark, Nathan 149, 286, 288, 300, 331
creates the Desert Boot 5, 175, 184–6
in charge of Overseas Division 188, 189–90
works at Halliday’s in Ireland 189
Bancroft’s criticism 189–90
Clark, Pauline 322
Clark, Ralph 209, 210, 239, 242, 269, 287, 303–4, 305, 312
Clark, Richard 205, 287, 303, 308, 313, 316, 321, 323–4, 326, 354
Clark, Roger 110, 139, 141, 149, 175, 286, 316, 343
education 103
at Clark, Son & Morland 103, 104
health 103
worldwide business tour with brother 103, 104
meets and marries Sarah 103, 104–7
interests 103–4
on James’s death 100
shareholdings 108
becomes company secretary 119
on Strode School 125
on William’s funeral 130
vice chairman of Clarks 137
in mourning 140–41
chairman of Avalon Leather Board Company 147
and Bebe Daniels 153–4
attitude to appeasement 156
and child evacuees 156
retirement 161–2
succeeded by Bancroft 228
Clark, Sarah (née Bancroft) 103, 104–7, 141, 149, 156, 157, 286
Clark, Sarah (née Bull) 14, 15, 16, 39, 54
Clark, Sarah (née Gregory) 54
Clark, Sarah Brockbank (née Satterthwaite) 100
Clark, Sarah Elizabeth (Bessie) 12, 54, 77
Clark, Sophia 33
education 149
joins Avalon Leather Board Company 149
Spanish Civil War 149
works at Joseph Bancroft & Son in America 149, 149
Springbok 148
praises Bancroft 150
chairman of Avalon Industries 209, 210
Company Secretary of C. & J. Clark 210, 229
disagreement with Ralph Clark 210
and the Shoe Museum 235–6
Clark, Thomas (first cousin of Cyrus and James) 39, 40–41, 62, 64, 68
Clark, Thomas, Snr (son of John Clark IV) 11
Clark, Thomas Beaven 12, 54, 71, 72, 73, 75, 76, 77–8
Clark, Thomas Bryant 50
Clark, Tony see Clark, J. Anthony
Clark, William Bancroft 107, 140, 149, 171, 205, 238, 250, 286
education 228
on retailing 143–4
foreign travel 145
becomes a director 145
and Avalon Leather Board Company 148, 150
Clarks logo 150–51
on decentralisation 158
committed to post-war creativity 160–61
and women’s buying power 165–6
and workers’ time-keeping 170
and productivity 169–70
managers’ budgets and ‘blue’ book 170
a member of ‘the Holy Trinity’ 170, 171
on CEMA 175–6
on the footgauge 180
col. pl. 8
and the Desert Boot 185
and overseas policy 188–9
criticism of Nathan 189–90
and Peter Lord 193–4
on the independent retailer 194–5
on Clarks expansion 200
visits Russia and Ukraine 201
worries about finding jobs for family members 206
retirement (1967) 206, 228, 229
chairman of C. & J. Clark 208, 228–9
chairman of Clarks Ltd 208
sides with Stephen against Ralph 210
complains to Keith Joseph about British Shoe Corporation 214–15
on style 220
and sourcing shoes from outside the UK 221
Pedder chosen as his personal assistant 222–3
and McKinsey report 225
chairman of Street Estates Limited 228
personal tribute to Peter Clothier 235
authority over family members 260
on Tony Clark 285
and Tindale’s appointment 287
thanks Daniel for his work 288
and Henry Moore 305
death (1993) 327
obituaries 327
‘Management Changes’ 206
Clark, William Stephens 33, 38, 55, 109, 110, 114, 148, 149, 206
joins the company 46
introduces machinery into the shoe production process 2, 46–9
at the heart of C. & J. Clark 3
on the making of sheepskin rugs 18
and the Crimean War 53
on his brothers’ financial withdrawals 54–5
concern with quality 59–60, 83
on the firm’s inspectors 65–6
succeeds the partners as chairman 32, 66
rapid transformation of the business 67
and wrangling over Cyrus’s will 72, 73–4
marriage 78
at Greenbank 79
commissions Skipper to build Millfield 79–80
forms partnership with James (1873) 80
at the centre of life in Street and beyond 3, 88, 119–21
sets up Avalon Leather Board Company 90–91, 209
and output-sales imbalance 93–4
forms partnership with Frank (1889) 94
lack of success in Ireland 95–7
at Roger’s wedding in America 107
shareholdings in public limited company 108
first foray into retailing 108–11
semi-retirement 119
heart attack and death (1925) 129–30, 137
funeral 130–31
patriarchal, paternal tradition established 134
History of the Business of C&J Clark Limited 15–16, 37–8
Clark, Son & Morland 78, 90, 103, 104, 125, 148
Clarke, Jack 175
Clarks Code of Business Ethics 353
Clarks Code of Practice 353
Clarks Comments in-house publication 164, 165, 207, 216
Clarks Companies North America (CCNA) 339–40, 346, 351
Clarks Courier 143, 207–8, 218, 235, 251, 264, 266, 271, 272, 290, 292, 294, 298, 302, 306
Clarks Europe 291
Clarks factory, Street, Somerset 19, 51, 82, 121, 129
Bull’s glove-making premises 15
and brawl at 1832 General Election 28
Netherleigh built next to the factory 31
sewing machines introduced 5, 47–9, 83–4
pollution 51
water tower 82
‘Big Room’ 82, 83, 84, 155, 264
Pattern Room 83
Machine Room 47–8, 49, 69, 83, 108, 116, 132
Making Room 83
Treeing and Trimming Room 83, 108
factory outings 90–91
factory band 91
Turnshoe department 108
costings department 114
personnel management department 119, 126
Factory Committee/Factory Council/Works Council 121, 134, 135, 136, 169, 231
decentralisation 157–8
laboratory 173
Margaret Lockwood’s visit 181–2, 181, 182
sole room 197
shoe designers 356
Trend Department 356
Clarks Foundation 3, 206, 207, 281, 353, 360
Clarks Future Footwear Ltd 352
Clarks International Ltd 305, 351
Clarks Ireland Ltd 166, 188, 204
Clarks Ltd 208, 224, 228, 229, 234, 259, 265
Clarks name: typography 150–51
col. pl. 5
Clarks New Zealand Ltd 189
Clarks of England Ltd 230, 339, 340
Clarks of Kilmarnock 150
Clarks Original Live magazine 357
Clarks Originals 357
Clarks Overseas Shoes Ltd 203, 208, 221, 229, 250
Clarks Pension Trustees 283
Clarks Properties 328
Clarks Shoes Australia Ltd 229
Clarks Shoes Ltd 282
Clarks UK division 351
Clarks Village, Street 328, 329, 330, 349
Clarksport products 247–9
Clash 246
Claw, Israel 195
clickers 29
see also cutters
Clore, Sir Charles
background 195
first purchases 195
Sears acquisition 195–6
Richard Shops 196
buys up smaller shoe companies 196–7
forms British Shoe Corporation 198
fails to buy Barratts 212
chain of high street shops 342
closers 30
see also binders
Clothier, Anthony 149, 206, 235, 269, 280, 287
Clothier, Arthur, partner in wool and tanning business 2, 13, 14
Clothier, Esther (née Clark) 108, 110, 140–41, 170
Clothier, James 11
Clothier, John 235, 276, 282, 285–6, 292, 293, 301, 306, 311, 312, 322, 327, 328, 334
Clothier, Peter T. 141, 149, 171, 193, 206, 226, 276, 282, 334
a member of ‘the Holy Trinity’ 170, 171
and Avalon Leather Board Company 170
a director of C. & J. Clark 170
expertise in machinery 170
and the Mayflower factory 172
and younger generation 213, 235
and British Shoe Corporation 213–14
managing director of C. & J. Clark 229, 236
Clothier, Samuel Thompson (Tom) 122, 122, 139–40, 141
Clothier, Violet 149
Clothier family 170
Club and Institute Committee 130
Club shoes 218
Clutterbuck, David and Devine, Marion: Clore: The Man and his Millions 195–6
Co-operative Banks of Germany 311
Coaxley family 10
Cobden, Richard 78
Cole, Michael 333
Collett Dickenson Pearce (CDP) 5, 252–4, 257
Colman, Royston 338–9
Colonial Development Corporation 210
‘Colorado’ sandals 152
competition 9
from America 33, 94–5, 99, 103, 108, 111
burgeoning shoe manufacturing business in France 33
Northampton’s shoe industry hit by imports from Europe 33–4
after introduction of sewing machines and riveting 57
E.C. Sadler & Co. 85
necessary to stand out from other UK shoemakers 99
in lower grades of shoes 129
in fashion shoe sector 232
Computer Aided Design Centre (CADC), Cambridge 262
computer-aided design (CAD) 260–62, 261, 262, 355, 355
computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) 260–62
Conrad Jameson Associates 258
conscientious objectors 156
Construction Electric Mediano Automatico (CEMA) machine 174–6
Contura 257
Conventicle Act (1664) 10
Cook, Howard 276
Cool Britannia campaign 187
Cool for Cats troupe 216
Cooper, Allen & Co 188
cordwainers 19
Corn Laws 9
Cornwall 31
Corporation Tax 225
Corri, Adrienne 241–2
Cotterell, Jacob H. 72
Cottier, Bob 175
joins Clarks 265
head of the Clarks men’s division 248
‘Levi’s for feet’ 250
and factory closures 264
Silflex closure 265
managing director of Clarks Ltd 272, 294
in Australia 282, 285, 293, 294
a director of C. & J. Clark Ltd 282
support for Daniel 285
on the two-board situation 303
and reshuffled hierarchy 306
comments at Orchard Room meeting 319
Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 323
deputy managing director 327
meets Tim Parker 335
managing director (operations) of C. & J. Clark Ltd 265, 334–5
Coultas, Brian 318
Council of the Duchy of Lancaster 315
Council of Lloyds 314
Country Club casual range 236
court shoes 174, 253, 261–2, 271
Cowmead raw material warehouse 232
Cowshed café, Clarks headquarters, Street 359
Craddock Brothers 224
‘craft societies’ 49
Craftmasters 218
‘credit crunch’ 349
Crest Nicholson 354
Crew Clothing 349
Crick & Sons 83
Cricklewood Skating Rink, north-west London 195
Crispin, St 69
Crispin Hall, High Street, Street 90, 91, 91, 92, 112, 119, 131, 154, 235
Crispin School, Street 207
Crockett & Jones 218
Croft, Annabel 278
Cromwell, Oliver 18
Crookenden, Spencer 266, 267, 268, 269, 270
K Shoes: The First 150 Years, 1842–1992 133, 267, 283
Crossfield family 24
Croxley Green, Hertfordshire 164
Crumplin, Kevin 306, 307, 315, 338
Crumplin, Dr Tim 221
CSM3D 262
Cubism 151
Curtess (previously Fortress Shoe Company) 197, 276, 296
see also clickers
Daily Express 152
Daily Telegraph 4, 226, 309, 315, 318, 320, 322, 345
‘Dainty’ shoes 111
Daisy ‘Magic Steps’ shoes col. pl. 12
Daladier, Edouard 156
Dalgety & Co. 97
dancing shoes 137
col. pl. 4
Daniels, Bebe 153
David Z store, SoHo, New York 187
Davis, Jack 203
Davis, Professor John A.: Clarks at a Crossroads 289
Davos Platz, Switzerland 103
Dawe, Cedric 216
Day Continuation School, Street 3, 92, 123
Day, Peter 332
de Klerk, President 333
De Paula, Agnes (née Clark) 286
Death Valley, California 186, 186
Debenhams 213
Delaware Art Museum 105
Dempster, Judith 150
Clarks mannequin show (Copenhagen, 1948) 182
department stores 4, 95, 117, 350, 352
Derbyshire, Judith 312
Desert Boot 5, 175, 184–7, 186, 286, 289–90, 357
Desert Yarra col. pl. 14
Design Museum, The, London 187
Devon 31
Devonshire, Alan 278
DG Bank 311
Diamond Shoes Ltd 203
Diana, Princess 271
Dickens, Charles: Oliver Twist 34
Dickson, Walter
known as ‘the man from Mars’ 301
earlier career 301
on family business structure 302–3
new management structure (from 1992) 305–6
expertise in brand management 307
Extraordinary General Meeting (1992) 308–14, 314
Orchard Room meeting 318–19
Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 321, 324
his promise after the EGM 325
resignation 326
Dietrich, Marlene 137
Dillinger 357
Dolcis 197, 275, 276, 307, 342
Dorset 31
Douglas Home, William: The Secretary Bird 206
Down shoe factory, Belfast 243
Downes, John 117
Dresdner Kleinwort Benson 344
du Maurier, Daphne col. pl. 7
‘Dude’ 250
Dugmore, Eric 311
Dundalk, Ireland 166, 203, 205, 248, 265, 280
Dunlop 112
Dunstan, St, Abbot of Glastonbury (later Archbishop of Canterbury) 7
Eastern England 31
Eaton, Joseph 39
E. C. Sadler & Co. 85
EcoHomes ‘Excellent’ standard 354
Eddy, Mary Baker 127
Eden Construction Company 270
Edgar, John 36
Edinburgh, Prince Philip, Duke of 182, 271
Edinburgh University 210
Edmonds, Noel 271
Edmonson, Thomas 24
Education Act (1918) 124
Edward I, King 7
Edward VI, King 8
Edward VII, King 102
Edwards, David 312
Egon Zendor 350
Eight-Eyelet 1460 model 246
Eighth Army 184
Eindhoven, Holland 250
Eleanor, Queen 7
Electra Investment Trust 309, 312, 314
Elizabeth, Queen, the Queen Mother 218
Elizabeth II, Queen (and as Princess Elizabeth) 182, 183, 198–9, 218, 230, 312
Ellesmere Port, Cheshire 212
Elmsleigh shopping centre, Staines, Middlesex 271
Elstree Studios, Hertfordshire 216
Empress of the Skies aircrash (1948) 188
English Heritage 90
Enoch Taylor 97
Enterprise Shoe Company 188
Epstein, Sir Jacob 140
Esquire magazine 186
Europa Hotel, off Oxford Street, London 241, 242
Europe: Clarks’ current turnover (to year ending 31 January 2012) 352
European Economic Community 244
European Shoe Federation 206
European Union 297
Exmouth, Devon 171
Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs Industriels et Modernes (Paris, 1925) 137
Face magazine 290
Factory 2000 299
factory shops 328
factory systems 114–15, 274, 299
Falk, Millicent 124
family shareholder council (Street Trustee Family Company) 4, 326, 330–32, 331, 343, 349, 354, 359–60
Far East 4, 118, 232, 308, 346
Farmer, Patrick 306
Faroe Islands 187
‘Fastnet’ 247
Feature Shoes 177
Federated Associations of Boot and Shoe Manufacturers 177
Feilden Clegg Bradley 354
Felixstowe 348
Ferragamo, Salvatore 246
Fiennes, Sir Ranulph 259
Fiennes, Rosalie 259
Fifth Monarchist uprising (1661) 23
F.I.I. 314
Financial Times 220, 244, 278–9, 327, 329, 342
‘Finder Board’ 177
Finland 118
Fireman, Paul 247
‘First Shoes’ 5, 179, 291, 358
First World War 114, 119, 123, 124, 126
Florence and the Machine col. pl. 14
Florsheim 245
flotation issue 244, 295, 300, 304–5, 317–18, 322–3, 326, 329–30, 343–4, 345
‘Flotilla’ range 218
‘The City to the Sea’ sales slogan col. pl. 9
Flotilla Shoes Ltd 274
Follow the Sun (review) 151–2
Foot, Michael 217
footgauge 5, 45, 176–9, 178, 327
footgauge
How to Use Clarks Footgauge manual 177–9
Junior Gauge 358
Toddler Gauge 358
Footwear News 340
Fortress Shoe Company (renamed Curtess) 197
Fosse Way 9
Foster, Joseph 247
Fox, John 146
Fox Brothers of Wellington 132
burgeoning shoe manufacturing business 33
export of cheap shoes to Britain 94–5
Clarks’ sales in 118
franchise stores 359
free market capitalism 133
Free Product Movement 33
Freeman, Hardy & Willis 195, 196–7, 198, 211–12, 276, 307, 342
‘French shoes’ 99
Friends Charity Farm, Street 11–12
Friends’ Meeting House, Street 9, 22, 25, 130
From Russia With Love (film) 216–17
Fry, Elizabeth 26
Fry, Joseph 26
Funck, Herbert 246
Furness Shipbuilding Company Ltd 215
Future Group 352
Gainsborough Studios 181
Gallagher, Noel col. pl. 14
Garbo, Greta 137
Garner, David 49–50
Garrard & Co. Ltd 215
Gaspargas, Anteiro 298
Gatwick Boots 153
Gay, Les 322
G. B. Britton & Sons 217–18
General Election (1832) 27–8
General Foods 252
General Strike (1926) 133
‘Gentleman’s Osborne’ boot 82
‘Gentleman’s Prince of Wales’ shoe 82
Gentlemen’s Pump Boots 41
Germany 98, 118, 250, 291, 347
Ghana 230
Gibson, Gavin 97
Gibson, George Stacey 74
Gifford, Cyril 241
Gilbert and Sullivan 104
Gillett, Antony Walter 135
Gillett, Jan 331
Gillett, Lucy (née Bancroft) 107
Gillett, Margaret Clark 108, 110, 126–7
Gillett, Martha 63
Gillett family 13
Gillibrand, Neville 248, 283, 293, 294, 338
Glancey, Jonathan 340–41
Glastonbury, Somerset 10, 27–8, 29, 90, 91
Clark factory 171
Glastonbury railway station 115, 121, 224
Glastonbury Tor, Somerset
one-time brand image of Clarks 3, 99
image used for Clark sport shoes 3
Glastonbury-to-Highbridge canal 13
Glastonbury Festival 320
col. pl. 14
Glen, Kitty (later Mrs John Powell) 153
global financial crisis 349, 350
Gloucester 10
Gloucestershire 31
Gluv 266
Glynn, Prudence 234–5
Gola 112
‘Golf Ace’ 247
‘Golfer’ 247
Goodyear, Charles 45–6
Goodyear Tyre & Rubber Company, The 46
Gordon, Grant 359
Gould, Caroline (née Robertson) 286, 300, 304–5, 308, 312, 316, 343, 354
Grand Metropolitan 349
Grange, the, Street 239
Graves, A. W. (Bill) 168, 180, 203, 205, 241, 242
Gray, Dolores 153
Great Depression 133
Great Exhibition (1851) 41–2, 44, 45–6, 79
Greece 297
Green, Felicity 219–20
Greenbank, Street, Somerset 79, 79, 106, 128
Greenbank Pool, Street 3, 127, 128
Gregory, Bishop 54
Grey, Lord 27
Grimoldi company 174
Grisewood, Freddie 217
Gross, Eric 224, 229, 242, 269
Grosvenor Estate 315
Grove factory, Street 171, 193, 231, 330
G. T. Harrison Shoes Ltd 203
Gucci 262
Gulf & Western 245
Gurgaon, near Delhi 352
gutta percha 44–5
Gynt, Greta col. pl. 6
Haines, Mary Ann 48
Halfway House Bridgwater 281
Hall, Allan 237
Hall, Harriet (née Clark) 286, 300, 316, 320, 325, 326, 330–31, 331, 332, 343, 359–60
Halliday, Arthur 166–7, 175, 203, 208, 229
Halliday family 280
Hampshire 31
Hanover, Pennsylvania 245
Hanover Shoe Company 244–5, 250, 280, 281, 339
Happy Shoe Company, The 230
Hardware range 291
Hardy, Thomas 103
Harris, Paul 299