Harrison, Thomas 188
opens children’s shoe department run by Clarks 302
Hart, Reginald C. (Reggie) 203
education 142
works in a rubber company 142–3
in charge of Walwyns 142
first managing director of Peter Lord Ltd 142, 143, 224
C. & J. Clark Retailing Ltd 208–9
retirement 224
Harvard Business School 259, 289, 335, 336, 346
Harvey, Bernard 244
Harvey-Jones, Sir John 332
Heage, Derbyshire 111
Healey & Baker 195
Health for All 151
Heeley, David 236, 249, 259, 319
heels
building and attaching heels 49, 70
stacked 246
stiletto 253
Henry VIII, King 8
Hermes 330
Hiet, Robert 8
High Street, Street, Somerset 3, 28, 51, 82, 112, 208
Hill, James 173
Hillcox, David 319
Hiller, Wendy col. pl. 6
Hinde, John 153; col. pls. 6, 7
Hinde, Wilfrid George 141, 153; col. pl. 6
visits shoe factories in America 114
introduces ‘standard lines’ 115
and advertising 115
conscientious objector 115–16
appointed a director (1928) 116
and sales in Holland 187
Hindhayes Infants School, Street 141
Hitchcock, Alfred 181
Hitler, Adolf 156
Hodges, Horatio 86–8
Hodgson, Sir Maurice 314
Holcombe Brook, Lancashire 247
Holder, Noddy 246
Holiday, Billie 216
Holland 98, 118, 182, 187–8, 250
Holmes, Angela 302
Holt, Geoffrey 283
Home Counties 230
Hong Kong 232, 297, 308, 345, 350
Hooper, John 28
Hotel D’Angleterre, Copenhagen, Denmark 182
Houlton, Richard 359
Houndwood site, Street 224, 232, 354
House of Fraser 221
Howard-Spink, Geoff 257–8
Howcroft, Paul 292–3
Howcroft, Sarah 292
Howe, Elias 48
Howlett & White 177
HTV 278
Hudson, Hugh 253
Hudson, Kenneth: Towards Precision Shoemaking 88, 132, 145–6, 211
Hulanicki, Barbara 246
Hull, east Yorkshire 89
Humanic Shoe Company, Graz, Austria 226, 276
‘hungry forties’ 34
Hungry Hill (film) col. pl. 7
Hunt, Walter 48
Huntley, Joseph 65
Huntley, Thomas 65
Huntley, Bourne & Stevens 24
Hush Puppies 230
Hygienic range 99, 176; col. pl. 2
I Know Where I’m Going (film) col. pl. 6
Ibsen, Henrik 104
Iceland 187
ichthyosaur emblem 8
ICI 314
‘Igloo’ boots 201
Ilchester Gaol, Somerset 10
Ilminster, Somerset 171, 231, 250, 343
In Business (radio programme) 332
Independent 340
India 4, 118, 184, 187, 188, 334, 352, 353
Indigo range 347
Industrial Revolution 25
Ine of Wessex, King 7
‘Infants Play-ups Sandals’ (known as ‘Play-ups’) 168
Institute for Family Business 1, 265–6, 359
institutional leases 276
instore displays col. pl. 15
International Labour Organization 353
International Monetary Fund 243
Investors in Industry Group plc (3i) 287
Invoice Recording Book 31
IRA 241
Ireland
footwear supplies to Plantations 18
William’s lack of success in 95–7
Halliday’s 1663
Clarks Ireland Ltd formed 166
importance of the Irish market 166–7
Nathan Clark works in 175
manufacture of Clarks’ shoes for men 218
factory makes cheap, unbranded women’s fashion shoes 233
closure of Clarks’ factories in 4
Iron Curtain 282
Isca factory, Exmouth 296
J. & S. Allen 96
J. Edwards & Company, Philadelphia 114
J. Sears 197
Jack Nano ‘Magic Steps’ shoes col. pl. 12
Jacobs & Co 24
Jacobson Group 112
James II, King 10
James Baker 274
Jameson, Conrad 258
Jamieson, Frank 142
Japan 350
Java 118
Jeffreys, Judge 10
Jenkins, Roy 246
Jenkins, Victor 248
‘Jersey Sandal’ 147
‘Jetter’ 247
Jimmy Godfrey’s Cider House, Street (later Bear Coffee House, then Bear Inn) 91
‘Jogger’ 247
John, Elton 246
John Collier 375
John Halliday & Son 166, 189, 229
John Lewis 143
John Southworth 142
John White 266
Johnson, Boris 345
Johnson, Priscilla (née Clark) 149, 250
Johnston, William 242, 249, 250, 267, 269, 281, 287, 331, 343, 349
Jones & Higgins 117
Jordan, Michael 247
Joseph, (Sir) Keith 214–15
Joseph of Arimathea 7
Joseph Bancroft & Sons 105
‘Joyance Sandal’ 146–7
J. T. Butlin & Sons Ltd 217, 218
J. W. Foster & Sons 247
K Shoes 142, 166, 177, 209, 243, 266–70, 269, 274, 276, 281, 282, 283, 292, 293, 294, 295, 298, 299, 305, 307, 312, 323, 327, 328, 333, 343
K Shoes Ltd 282
K Women’s shoe range 232
Kalcher, Karl 291–2
Kauffer, Edward McKnight 151, 152, 357; col. pl. 2
Kayser-Roth Corporation 245
Kea, St 7
Keats, John 49, 68–9, 85, 110, 111
Keats, William 85
Kendal, Cumbria 19, 243, 270, 298, 299, 307, 323, 328, 329, 333, 343
Kennet Square, Pennsylvania 284
Kensington High Street, London 143
Kenwood 335
Kilkenny, Ireland 204
King, Philip
Diamond 241
Steps 241
King’s College, Cambridge 210, 228
Kingston-upon-Thames, Surrey 259, 351
Kingweston, Somerset 73
Kiss 246
Kleinwort Benson 267
Knapp 348
Knowle, Bristol 276
Koehler, Mela 137; col. pls. 3, 4
Kurt Geiger 333
Kwik-Fit 345
Kynaston, David: Austerity Britain, 1945–51 163–4
Labour government 163, 225, 244
Ladies’ Best French Morocco shoes 41
‘ladies’ high-heeled shoes’, the first (1877 price list) 99
Lady Vanishes, The (film) 181
‘Lady’s calf kid Balmoral’ boot 95
‘Lady’s cream brocade side-laced’ boot 82
‘Lady’s Lorne Lace’ boot 82
‘Lady’s Morocco Oxford Lace’ shoe 95
‘Lady’s patent calf Langtry tie shoe’ 95
‘Lady’s side-spring’ boot 82
Laing, Andrew 314
Land Star Inc. 285
Lane & Robinson 141
Lantokay (later Street) 7
Larkhill Rubber Company Ltd 174, 209, 211
last-making machines 49–50
lasts
virtual 5
universal 18
Mayflower factory 172–3
Le Touquet sandal col. pl. 11
‘Leap Training’ 358
leather
price of 44, 61, 136, 172, 226
rationing 155
replaced by other materials 5, 155
Legal & General 196
Lehane, Brendan: C. & J. Clark: 1825–1975 30–31
Leicestershire 49
Leigh Road, Street, Somerset 90
Leighton Park, Reading, Berkshire 114
Lennards 213
Leslie, Charles: The Snake in the Grass; or Satan Transformed into an Angel of Light 23–4
Lever Brothers 24
Levi 501s 290
Levi Strauss and Co. 250
‘Levi’s for feet’ 250–51, 252, 276
Levison, Harry 196, 197, 215–16, 239
Lewis, Eileen 164
Lewis’s, Manchester 143
Li Ka-Shing 308
Lidbetter, James 207
Light, Larry 307
Lilley & Skinner 177, 197, 276
Limbers 159
Lister, Moira 174
Little, Adrian 331
Little Dragon 357
Little John 357
Littleboy, Richard Wallis 116
Liverpool 32
Liverpool Polytechnic 248
Livesey, Joseph 35
lockstitch 48
Lockwood, Julia (Toots) 181, 181; col. pl. 7
Lockwood, Margaret 153, 181–2, 181, 182; col. pl. 7
Clarks’ surplus stock of goloshes 44
shops selling Clarks’ footwear 57
Clarks’ office in 74, 141, 242
Clarks’ links with the West End 108–9
as a sales territory 116–17
showroom in Shaftesbury Avenue 117
London International Exhibition (1862) 69, 82
London Olympics (2012) col. pl. 13
London School of Economics 126
London Shoe Week 239
London Underground Electric Railways 151
London University (Birkbeck) 326
London Weekend Television 246
Long Sutton, Somerset 65, 83, 190
Lotus 142
Lotus Ltd 112, 160, 166, 177, 209
Louise and the Pins 357
Lovell, Benjamin 316, 331, 343
Quaker Inheritance, 1871–1961 103
Lowe, Frank 258
Lowe Howard-Spink 258
Lower Leigh, Somerset 12
Lugton, Thomas 108
Lupton, James 319
Luxembourg 187
Lyle, Sandy 278
McCaul Knitwear 216
McConnell, John 255
Macdonald, Ramsay 122–3
McGarvie, Michael: Bowlingreen Mill 51, 150
McGill University, Montreal 307
McKinsey & Co. 223–5, 225, 295, 307–8, 310
McLaren, Priscilla Bright 105
McMenemy, Mark 339
McWatters, George 266
‘Mae West’ lifejackets 155
‘Magic Steps’ shoes 291; col. pl. 12
Maidment, Charles 103
Majorca Villa range 356
Malawi 232
management consultants 222–5, 232–4, 243, 303, 307–8
Manchester 17
Manfield 110, 197, 211–12, 276, 342
Manhattan Associates 348
Manipulator magazine 290
Mappin & Webb 215
‘Marathon’ 250
Marble Arch, central London 350–51
Margaret, HRH Princess 182, 183
Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, San Francisco 151
Markham, Michael 308, 310, 311
Marklew, E. C. 98
Marks & Spencer 213, 296, 306, 314, 327, 330, 334, 339
Marlington factory, West Virginia 333, 339
Mars Confectionery 301
Mars Europe 301
Marsh, James 37
Marsh, Mary 48
Marsh, Yvonne 193
Marshall, Geoffrey 296
Martens, Klaus 246
Martock, Somerset 83
Mary II, Queen 23
Mayer-Rieckh, Michael 226
Mayflower factory, Plymouth 171, 172–3, 174, 217, 339
Mediano de Capdevilla, Gonzalo 174, 175
Melbourne, Lord 34
Mellor Bromley Ltd 215
Mendip 153
Mendip District Council 239
Meolite 173
MEPC 329
Mephisto 297
Metford, William 31–2
Metford family 13
Meyer, Jack 80
Mid Somerset Series 324
Midlands 31, 49, 117, 224, 274
Midsomer Norton, Somerset: Northway factory 171, 226
Millbeck plant, Kendal 270
Millfield House, Street, Somerset 80, 81, 90, 110
Millfield School, Street, Somerset 80, 81
Millward, Mr 254
Minehead, Somerset 171, 226, 227, 248, 265
Ministry of Supply 155
Miraclefeet 353
Mitchell, Malcolm 217
Mitre House, 177 Regent Street, London 141, 161, 194
Mondaine 229
Mondaine Ltd 229–30
Monmouth Rebellion 10
Monopolies and Mergers Commission (MMC) 268
Montana sandals 183
Monthly News Sheet 122, 128, 135, 192
Moore, Henry 303–4
Morison, Robert 287
Morland, Bryan 148
Morland, John 52, 78, 131, 148
Morland, Mary (née Clark) 33, 148
Morning Cloud (yacht) 249
Morris, William 104
Moscow fashion show (1956) 202
Moseley, Birmingham 142
Mothercare 213
‘Mr Cochran’s Young Ladies’ 151–2, 153
Mrs Bernard Shaw Scholarship 126
Muller’s Orphanage, Bristol 83
Mullins, Ron 284
Mussolini, Benito 156
Nabarro, Sir Gerald 217
Nassau 232
National Shoe Trade Union 226
National Union on Boot and Shoe Rivetters and Finishers (Sons of St Crispin) (later National Union of Boot and Shoe Operatives (NUBSO)) 84–5, 133, 138
National Union of Footwear, Leather and Allied Trades (NUFLAT) 239, 264
National Westminster Registrars 324
Natural History Museum, London 8
Nature Conservation 281
navy shoes, nailing of 47
Ne Plus Ultra ladies’ boot 29
Neeve Ella boot 356
Netherleigh, Street 31, 33, 54, 304
New Forest factory, Dundalk 205
New Look 349
New Orleans ‘Outlet Conference’ 328
New Tredegar, south Wales 171
New York 165
New Zealand
Clarks’ samples sent to 56
agents in 98
Clarks New Zealand Ltd 189
Papatoetoe children’s factory 230
worst year for retailing in a decade 284
New Zealand House, Haymarket, London 232
Newgate Prison, Norfolk 26
Newman, Al (aka Al Fingers): Clarks in Jamaica 357
News from Clarks of Street (trade publication) 158
Newton, Helmut 290
Next to Nothing store 328
Nicoll, Stewart 283
Niek 247
Nigeria 232
Nightingale, Florence 53
Nike 345
Air Jordan trainers 247
swoosh 247
Nike (Greek goddess of victory) 247
‘No Time Limit’ guarantee 217
Nordrach, Black Forest, Germany 103
Norris, Henry Lee 46
a strong market for Clarks 4; col. pl. 16
Roger Clark meets his future wife on a sales tour 103
Wallabee sales 204
foreign shoes branded as Clarks and sold in 221
losses in 270
Clarks’ tenuous grip on North American market 280–81
Big Sky trading losses 284
profits ‘unacceptably low’ 295
Clarks factories in 327
slow improvement after dire situation 339
Clarks Companies North America 339–40
Bolliger’s aim 346
improved operating profits 346, 350, 351–2
Clarks’ business primarily wholesale 246
launch of two new brands 346–7
Clarks warehousing 348
North British Rubber Company 46
North region 117
Northampton 17, 18, 19, 33–34, 83, 111, 119, 198, 276
Northampton College of Technology: Boot and Shoe Department 17
Northamptonshire 49, 171, 217, 218, 246
Northover, Ilchester, Somerset 78
Norwegian Lace 153
Nova 235
Oasis 349
Observer 237
Office of Fair Trading 268
Olveston, Gloucestershire 12
Olympic Games (Paris, 1924) 247
On The Bright Side (television series) 216
Ontario, Canada 202
Orchard Room, Street 318
O’Toole, Peter 241
working conditions 19, 30–31, 51
binders 30
and William S. Clark 47, 68, 83, 158
for Bostock family 112
Overleigh, Somerset 10, 11, 106
Oxford University Labour Club 335
Oxford University Press 126
packaging 99–100
Padmore & Barnes Ltd 166, 203, 204
PAI Partners 345
Pakistan 232
Palmer, George 65
Palmer, William I. 65, 72, 74, 75–7
Palmer family 13
Palmers Green, London 217
Panama Hattie (musical) 153, 154
International Exhibition 150
Paris, Ian 262
Parker, Sarah Jessica 187
education 335
earlier career 335
appointed CEO 335
first report (‘Strategy, Structure and Management’) 336–8
aims to make Clarks retail-led 337, 341
comprehensive changes 338
new management team 338
personality 338
results for 1997 reflect his restructuring 341
committed to increased advertising 342
appearance 342–43
‘The Road Ahead’ strategy document 344
reflects on some of his changes 345
subsequent career after leaving Clarks 345
Parliament Square, London 140
Parmeko Ltd 215
Parrott (manager of J. Edwards & Company) 114–15
Pasolds 263
Paul, Alderman Leslie F. 172
Peakman, Martin 299
Pearl Harbor, bombing of (1941) 184
Pease, Edward 24
Peck, John Angell 98, 117, 188
Pedder, Roger 285, 300, 301, 339
education 221
graduate trainee at Clarks 221
personal assistant to Bancroft 221–2
marries Sibella Clark 222
joins British Home Stores 222
non-executive director 288–9
member of ‘Gang of Four’ 308, 317, 317
Extraordinary General Meeting (1992) 312, 313, 317
on Bid Committee 314
personal statement on Berisford bid 317
at Orchard Room meeting 319
Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 322, 323
chairman of C. & J. Clark 221, 317, 326, 335, 349
competitiveness issue 327–8, 333–4, 349
flotation issue 329–30
radio interview 332
announces disappointing figures for 1994 332
factory closures 339
resignation 349
upbeat final annual report 349
Pedder, Sibella (née Clark) 222, 300, 321, 331
Pedescope 176
Pedigree Pet Foods 301
Peek Frean 24
Peirce, Andrew 292
Pembroke College, Oxford 335
pension contribution holidays 281
Pentagram 254–6, 255; col. pls. 10, 11
Penthouse 251
Penthouse Pets 251–2
PepsiCo 304
Percy, Graham 256
Percy, Iain col. pl. 13
Perugia, André 160
Pet City 326
Peter Lord Ltd 142, 143, 177, 193–5, 205, 218, 219, 220, 234, 275, 295
Peter Lord shops 142, 143, 160, 161, 193, 194, 209, 214, 219, 221, 224, 227, 234, 248, 254, 268, 271, 274, 280
Petronius 272
PetSmart 326
Philips Brothers 197
Piccadilly Theatre, London 153, 154
Pick, Frank 151
Pietermaritzburg, South Africa 284
Pinet 229
Pinet, François 137
Pintosomerset Limitada 297–8
platform soles 246
‘Play-ups’ (‘Infants Playe-ups Sandals’) 168
Playboy 251
Player family 13
Plymouth, Devon 90, 91, 104, 297, 307
Mayflower factory 171, 172–3, 174, 217, 339
Plymouth Corporation 172
Points West (television programme) 278–9
polyurethane (PU) 5, 175, 209, 226–8, 257
Polyveldt-based shoes 227, 248, 257, 258; col. pl. 12
polyvinyl-chloride (PVC) 175
Ponting, Kenneth: Sheep of the World 17
Pop-ons 227
Port Elizabeth Boot Company, South Africa 189
Portas, Mary 5, 356–7; col. pl. 15
Portland 266
Portman Hotel, London: IRA bombing (1975) 241
Portsmouth 222
Potter, Melissa 352
education 350
joins the company as a graduate trainee 350–51
rise through the company 350–51
chief executive 351
integrated worldwide strategy 352
Clarks as a global business with four regional divisions 352
and appealing to broad age range 356
declines interviews with the financial press 360
Powell and Pressburger col. pl. 6
Power, James (Jim)
appointed a non-executive director 293
earlier career 293
Extraordinary General Meeting 308, 309, 310, 311
chairs Bid Committee 314
Preminger, Otto 242
press cutting 191
Preston, Australia 339
Preston Temperance Advocate, The (magazine) 36
Prestwick lace-up shoes col. pl. 6
Pretty Green clothing label 187
prices
partners’ refusal to budge on price 59
footwear 306
discount 328
Prince of Wales theatre, Coventry Street, London 195
Probert, George 285
early career 283
managing director of K Shoes 266, 267, 283
joins main C. & J. Clark board 268, 269
Group Managing Director of C. & J. Clark 282, 284
boasts that will ‘get rid of the family’ 282–3
and American operations 284
main interest of 286
‘Night of the Long Knives’ (1986) 287
retirement 293
Procter & Gamble 252, 265, 301
Product Finance 311
production timetables 115
profit, annual
1843–7 43
1851–9 43
‘Project M’ 204
Prussia, King of (Frederick William IV) 26
Public Health Act (1848) 50
Purchase, New York 304
Pursey, George 159
Putnam, David 253
Pym, Caroline (née Clark) 149, 300, 331
Pym, Hugh 308, 310, 316, 318, 320, 322, 325
Pym, Susan 325
Q magazine col. pl. 14
Quaker Act (1662) 10
‘Quaker Line’ 24
Quakers (Religious Society of Friends)
founded by George Fox 2
and Clarks bankruptcy scares 1
Joseph Clark I’s ministry 1–2, 12–13
Quaker firms’ disapproval of advertising 5
belief in keeping accurate records of day-to-day business activities 6
persecuted in seventeenth century 9, 10
in Somerset 9–10
wealthy families 13
stoical in response to provocation and persecution 23
committed to pacifism and non-violence 23, 53, 156
Toleration Act (1689) 23
financial success 23–4
numbers in Britain 24
treatment of transgressors 24
Book of Extracts 24–5
Rules of Discipline 25
and alcohol 35–6
financial assistance to Clarks 39, 40, 68
James appointed a minister 52
James’s wife appointed an elder 52
importance of education to 53
Central Education Committee 88
belief in sacredness of human life 88
acceptance of all people 88–9
desire for a convivial working environment 89
Annual Monitor 101
‘new look’ 106
Friends’ Ambulance Unit 115
relief work in Austria 123
funerals in Quaker tradition 131
Daniel reminds family of its charitable commitment 281
pride as a sin 320
Quality Footwear Exhibition, Seymour Hall, London (1947) 174
Quant, Mary 270
Queen’s Sedgemoor 9
R. Griggs Group Ltd 246
Radstock, Somerset 171
railway system 81
Ralphs Unified 209
Randolph, David Mead 47
Ranking Joe 357
rapid-mulling 173
Rapistan Lande 279
Rassle, The 357
Ravel 112, 219, 229, 274–5, 295, 300, 327, 343, 344, 349
Raymond Footwear Components 231
Reader’s Digest (magazine) 46
‘ready-mades’ 18, 29, 43–4, 57, 94
Realm Ltd 330
Reckitt 89
Record, Norman 263–4
Redgate factory, Bridgwater, Somerset 169, 236, 249
Redgate 2 closing factory, Street 296
Reebok International Ltd 247, 249, 344
Reeves, Porch & Co. 35
Reform Bill (1832) 32
Reform Bill (1867) 79
Report West (television programme) 278
‘Retail Margins on Multiple Fitting Shoes’ document (1947) 177
Reynolds, William 91
Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) 203
Richard Shoes 275
Richard Shops 196
Robertson, Charles 316, 331, 349
Robertson, Eleanor (née Clark) 149, 305
Rochdale, Lancashire 79
Rockley, Lord 267
Rohan Designs plc 292–3
Romania 297
Romans 8
Romford, Essex 156
Rose-Smith, Jack 184, 202, 203, 208
Rosebud (film) 242
Ross, Diana 302
Rossetti, Dante Gabriel: Water Willow 105
Rotary or In-line machines 227
Rothwell, near Kettering, Northamptonshire 171, 217
‘rotten boroughs’ 32
rounded-toed shoes 137
Roxanne shoe 183–4
Royal Air Force (RAF) 155
Royal Army Service Corps 5, 184
Royal Bath & West Showground, Shepton Mallet 315
Showering Pavilion 320
Royal Meteorological Society 120
Royal St George’s Golf Club, Sandwich, Kent 278
Royal Society of Arts 218, 271
rubber, vulcanised 45–6
Rubicon Retail Ltd 349
rug-making
Cyrus makes sheepskin rugs 2, 14
James uses rug off-cuts to make slippers and socks 2, 16
James sells Cyrus’s rugs 17
the process 18
percentage of Clarks sales 26
sales in North America 32–3
Great Exhibition award 41
James’s offer to Beaven 76, 78
John Morland takes over 52
Clark, Son & Morland 78, 90, 103, 104, 125, 148
running shoes 247
Saatchi, Charles 253
Sadler, E. C. 85
Saga 345
Saint, Thomas 48
St John’s College, Oxford 142
St Louis 165
St Luke’s 5
St Michael’s Tower, Glastonbury Tor iv, 99; col. pl. 2
‘Saint Monday’ 37
St Peters factory, Radstock, Somerset 297, 298, 322, 333
St Thomas’s Hospital, London 46
Salzano, Jim 351
Sambrook Court, Basinghall Street, London 74
Samsonite 345
Sapper, Peter 204
Satterthwaite, Michael 100
Savery, William 26
Saville, Eric 231
Saxone 197, 211–12, 276, 307, 342
Schimdt, Dr Oskar, Jnr 226
Schoefler, Oskar 186
Schroders merchant bank 267, 315
Sclater, John 315
Scott, Ridley 253
Scott-Stokes, H. F.: Clark, Son and Morland Ltd: Centenary Notes and Reminiscences 16
Sears & Co (True-Form Boot Company) 195–6
Sears Holdings 197, 215, 296, 306–7
second industrial revolution 81
Second World War 152, 155–61, 157, 163, 184, 185
Selective Employment Tax 225
Serenity shoes 205
‘Service’ 247
Sessions, William 120
sewing machines
first patent (1790) 48
first American patent 48
introduced to Clarks 5, 47–9, 83–4
acquiring expertise 48
effect on output at Clarks 49
Sex Pistols 246
Sexton 177
Sexton, Son & Everard, Norwich 145–6
Seymour, Sir Edward, Duke of Somerset 8
Seymour, Jane 8
Seymour, Walter 98
Shacklewell School, Hackney, London 53
Shaftesbury Avenue, London 117, 141
Shapwick, Somerset 9
Shareholders Opposed to Enforced Sale (SHOES) 316–20, 323, 325, 326
Shearer, Norma 137
Sheppard & Myers 244
Shepton Mallet, Somerset 83, 171, 250, 320
factory opened on site of Summerleaze park 168
production of Play-ups 168
managed by A. William (Bill) Graves 168
Number Two Factory and Number Three Factory opened 168
efficiency 168
factory for children’s shoes 170, 175
factory closed 339
Shoe and Leather News 296
Shoe Manufacturers Federation 226
Shoe Museum, High Street, Street 6, 150, 235–6
shoe-fitting courses 177
shoeboxes 289
the first (1880s) 99–100
redesigned by Pentagram 254, 255, 256; col. pls. 10, 11
Shoemaster 262
shoes see bespoke shoes; individual shoe names; ‘ready-mades’
Shoon 259
shopfronts col. pl. 15
‘showcards’ 5, 57, 19, 45, 57–8, 58, 98–9, 102, 146, 147, 151, 173; col. pls. 1–5, 8, 9
Showering family 320
Siam (now Thailand) 118
Siberia 118
Sidcot School, Winscombe, North Somerset 14, 46, 65
Silflex factory, Street 264, 265
Sim, Graham 290
Simpson, Andrew col. pl. 13
Simpson, Thomas
successful cotton-spinning business 63
financial report on C. & J. Clark 63, 64, 66
and Clarks’ accounts system 63
appointed an inspector of the business 65–6
on William S. Clark 68
and wrangling over Cyrus’s will 72, 73–5, 77
and repayment of loans 80
Singer & Co. 47–8
Singer Corporation 69
Sioux 204
Skepper, Edmund 118
Sketch 151
Skyborne bootees 174
Slade 246
Slaughter & May 312
Slim, T. P. 98
slippers
James Clark uses sheepskin 2, 16, 361
Whitnell makes up the slippers 16
Cyrus experiments with different kinds 17
Brown Peters 17–18; col. pl. 1
use of other materials 29
Tor sheepskin slippers 152
Smart, Vernon 208
Smith, Edgar 156–7
Smith, Pauline 157
Smith, Ray 157
Smith, Dr Roland 221
Smuts, Field Marshal Jan 140
‘Sneak’ 250
Soares, Mario 298
Society of Friends see Quakers
sole agencies 98
soles
crepe 5, 146, 173, 184, 204, 209, 230, 246, 257
sold separately 29
and apprentices 37
cutting to size by machine 49
attaching heels to soles by machine 49
Blake Sole Sewer 69–70
burnishing the edges 70
screwing on 70
bent needle adopted 71
rubber 146–7, 172, 174, 201, 209, 245
PU soling 226–8
platform 246
Solite 173–4
Somerset
Saxon conquest of 7
development of textile trade 8
Quakers in 9–10
Somerset Archeological Society (later Somerset Archaeological and Natural History Society) 120–21
Somerset County Council 239
Somerset County Museum, Taunton 8, 9
Somerset Youth Association 281
Somerton Road, Street, Somerset 9, 90
Somervell, Robert Miller 266
Somervell Brothers 142, 160, 166, 177
South Africa 56, 98, 117, 144, 182, 183, 189, 284, 333
South Africa Division 185
South East region 117
South Korea 297
South Petherton, Somerset 83
South Wales 133
Southampton 347
Southern International speedway event (Wimbledon Stadium, London, 1978) 251
Southern Resources 311
Southlands subsidiary 284
Soviet Union see Russia
Specialist Research Unit Ltd 258, 262, 292
Spectrum 235
speedway 251–2
Spenser, Edmund: Faerie Queene 121, 130
‘Spin’ 247
Spinal Tap (film) 246
Sporting and Dramatic 151
sports shoes 247–9
Springbok 148
Squires, Dougie 216
Stafford 227
Staines, Middlesex 271
standard lines 115
Startrite 239
Stephens, Amy (née Metford) 31, 32
Stephens, Isaac 39
Stevenson, Henry ‘Dennis’ (now Lord Stevenson) 258
Stewart, Rod 302
‘stitchdown’ 147
Stockton and Darlington Railway 24
Stoddart, Michael 309
Storehouse plc 293
Stratford, East London 278
Street, Somerset
Edward I’s Assizes held in 7
name and variant spellings 8–9
farming in 9
alcohol in 9
Quakers in 9–10
growth due to Clarks 1, 19, 29, 100
Clarks headquarters 1, 3, 237, 239, 329, 337, 345, 359, 360
Number One office 139, 140, 146
brawl on polling day (1832) 27–8
health issues 50–51
by-pass 207
Clarks distribution centre 3–4
see also Clarks factory, Street; Grove factory, Street
Street Estates Limited 209, 228, 232
Street Family Shareholders Association 296
Street Inn, Somerton Road, Street 9, 28
Street Library 3, 122, 122, 206–7, 207
Street Methodist Church 192
Street Parish Council 239
Street post office 127
Street Shoemakers’ Benefit Society 121
Street Shoemakers’ Provident Benefit Society 122
Street Trustee Family Company (STFC) (family shareholder council) 4, 326, 330–32, 331, 343, 349, 354, 359–60
Street Urban Council: ichthyosaur emblem 8
Street Women’s Auxiliary Fire Service 157
Street Women’s Benefit Society 121–2
Street Women’s Club 122
Street Women’s Liberal Association 123
Street Youth Club 233
Street-Porter, Janet 332
strikes
over Hodges (1880) 86–8
national strike (1897) 92
General Strike (1926) 133
Strode College (formerly Strode Technical College), Street 207
Strode Components Ltd 209
Strode Day Continuation School, Street 124–5
Strode School (later Crispin School), Street 92, 203, 207
Strode Technical College (later Strode College), Street 207
Strode Theatre, Street 3, 206, 264
Stuckey’s Banking Company 37, 39, 40, 62, 68
Sturge, Jacob Player 39
Sturge, Joseph 37
Sturge, Thomas 65
Sturge family 13
styrene 173
suffrage 27
women’s 105, 117, 119, 123, 137
Sumatra 118
Sumray, Monty 314
Sunday Express 197–8
Sunday Mirror 290
Sunday Pictorial 151
’100 Families to Speak for Britain’ campaign 164
Sunday Telegraph 290
Atticus column 237
Super Cat 357
‘Supreme’ 247
C. & J. Clark, 1833–1903: A History of Shoemaking 13, 34, 60–61, 64, 86, 93–94, 111
Swalcliffe, near Banbury, Oxfordshire 65
Swathmore College, near Philadelphia 222
export of cheap shoes to Britain 94–5
Sydney Lipton orchestra 193
Taiwan 297
Talking Newspaper for the Blind, Plymouth 281
Taunton, Somerset 179
technological revolution 81
technology
Clarks pioneers new technology 2, 47–50
adaptation of the sewing machine for shoe production 5, 47–9
width fittings 5
use of new materials to replace leather 5
polyurethane (PU) 5, 175, 209, 226–8, 257
building and attaching heels 49, 70
Miles’ mechanised sole-cutter 49, 70
Blake Sole Sewer 69–70
Construction Electric Mediano Automatico (CEMA) machine 174–6
polyvinyl-chloride (PVC) 175
Rotary or In-line machines 227
Westway Distribution Centre 347–8
Temperance Hall, Street 51
Terry, Frederick 312
Tesco 296
textile industry 8, 13, 29, 133
Thatcher, Margaret (Baroness) 265
Thomas, Dr Vaughan 248
Thomas, Philip 253
Thomas, William 48
Thomas Bostock & Sons 112
Thompson, Alexander 65
Thompson, Dr 46
Thompson, Francis J.
investment in Clarks 64–5
appointed an inspector of the business 65–6
Thorn EMI 335
Thornton, John 17
Thornton’s 328
Timber Research Association 159
time and motion studies 170
Times, The 52, 234, 292, 311, 327, 356, 357
Tindale, Lawrence (Larry)
earlier career 288
deputy chairman of 3i 287
appointed as Clarks’ first non-family chairman 287
Pedder on 288
announces poor results for 1987 294–5
resignation 300
letter from a group of family shareholders 300–301
Today newspaper 290
Todd, Ann 152–3
Toleration Act (1689) 23
Toll Gate, Street 16
Tomorrow’s World (television programme) 291
Tooting, London 276
Tor branding 99, 118, 128–9, 132–3, 136, 150, 152; col. pls. 2, 3
Tor Shoes Catalogue 116
Torflex children’s shoes 203
Torielli 262
Toronto, Canada 204
torpedo parts 155
Tovey, Douglas 195
Townsend factory 250
Toyota 299
Toyota Sewing System 299
trade catalogues 151
trade unions 243
and ‘craft societies’ 49
decriminalised (1867) 84
Amalgamated Cordwainers Association 84
National Union on Boot and Shoe Rivetters and Finishers (Sons of St Crispin) (later NationalUnion of Boot and Shoe Operatives) 84–5
Clarks exempted from negotations with unions on pay and conditions 92
agreement on working week (1966) 225–6
Trades Union Congress (TUC) 133
trainers 247–9
‘travelling salesmen’
and London as a sales territory 116–17
Treasury 335
Trefano Shoe Ltd, near Tonypandy, Welsh valleys 230, 265
Trevelyan, Charles, MP 122
Trinidad 232
Troubleshooter (television series) 332
Trumps 235
Tuf 266
Turner, Alf 298
Turner, E. S.: The Shocking History of Advertising 58
Tutankhamun 137
Tuxill, Bill 185
TV Times 278
two-tone shoes 137
UK Shoe Research Association 168
unbranded shoe market 211–12
unemployment 3, 48, 121, 136, 138, 243, 265
UNICEF education projects 353
Union of Suffrage Societies 123
United Nations 353
United Precision Industries Ltd 315
United States 187
Clarks’ shoes and rugs begin to be sold in 32–3
competition with Britain 33, 94–5, 99, 103, 108
restrictive tariffs 56
new, informal designs 103
Clarks’ Quaker connections in America 103
Clarks proud of its American influences 116
Clarks board members visit 144, 145
California Last construction 164
wide choice of footwear 165
frequent shoe purchase 165, 195
productivity in shoe industry 170
teenagers 180
American companies and hostile bids 196
Hanover Shoe Company 244–5
American market crucial to Clarks 245
Bostonian Shoe Company 245
‘disastrous year’ in (1984) 280
closure of Clarks’ factories in 4, 280, 333
‘most unsatisfactory situation’ in 281
Probert and American operations 284
discount and outlet stores 327
Pleeth’s and Clothier’s fact-finding tours 328
9/11 terrorist attacks 344
Bolliger’s aim 346
Clarks’ store openings planned 352
Clarks’ First Step Programme 354
University College London 94
University of Liverpool 221
University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology 291–2
Upstairs Downstairs (television series) 246
Urban District Council 88, 119–20
Urban Hymns (album) 342
US Shoe Corporation 299
US Stock Exchange 244
Vale of Avalon 9
Vanstraaten, Max 98
Varese 137
VE Day 164
Veldt 147
Venner, Thomas 23
Vennland factory, Minehead 265
ventilated shoes 164
Verdict 306
Verona, Italy 290
Verve, The 342
Victoria, Queen 34, 41–2, 82, 102, 320
Victoria Athletic Field and Club playing fields, Street 3, 207
Victoria College, Leeds 103
Victorian Employers Federation 92
‘Victorian Prosperity’ 44
Village Album 303
Vinelott, Mr Justice 253
Vivier, Roger 198
Voertrekkers 185
Vogue (US) col. pl. 16
Vorticism 151
Waffle trainers 247
Wales 274
Walker, Mrs (companion) 12
Wall Street Crash (1929) 133
Wallace, Marjorie (Miss World) 236, 249
Wallace, Robert 252–3, 254, 256–7, 259, 260, 262, 276
Wallis, Mary 48
(as Peter York): Official Sloane Ranger Handbook 258
Waltham Abbey, Essex 53
Walton, Somerset 29
Walvin, James: The Quakers: Money and Morals 89
Walwyns 142
Wansdyke Shoes Ltd 212–13, 233
Ward, Joseph (Joe) 147–8
Ward Bros 96
Warminster, Wiltshire 171, 209
Waterford 31
Watford, Hertfordshire 161
Weedon, Bert: ‘Big Beat Boogie’ 216
Welch, Florence col. pl. 14
Wellington, Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of 27
Cathedral col. pl. 6
Wells, William 116
Welwyn Garden City, Hertfordshire 277
Wessex Hotel, Street 329
‘Wessex Shoes’ 136, 172, 176, 216
Graves opens factories in 168
and closure of Clarks’ factories in 4, 264
Avalon Industries 295
West Ham United 278
Western Temperance League 88, 120, 130, 154
Weston-super-Mare, Somerset 171, 248, 265, 297, 307, 343
Westropp, Edward 198
Westway Distribution Centre, Street 3–4, 347–8, 348, 354
‘white global format’ 358
White, Joseph 28
White, Josiah 28
White Rose 265
Whiteheads of Weymouth 155
Whiteladies Road, Bristol 141
Whitenights group 286–7
‘Summary on position of shareholders and on manufacturing and trading policies in the UK’ 286
Whiting, Richard, Abbot of Glastonbury 8
Whitman, Massachusetts 245
Wicked Lady, The (film) 181
Wiener, Oskar 98
Wilde, Oscar: The Ballad of Reading Gaol 321
Willets, John 244
William III, King 23
Williams, Robbie 187
Wilmington, Delaware 103
Wilmington Society of Fine Arts 105
Wilmot, Roy 211
Wilson, A. N.: The Victorians 34
Wilson, Harold 225, 242–3, 246
Wiltshire 31
Winkel, Mabel 160
winter boots 344–5
‘winter of discontent’ (1978) 243
Wire magazine 290
Woman’s Hour (radio programme) 125
women
binders 30
suffrage 105, 117, 119, 123, 137
Alice Clark’s book 125–6
empowerment in developing world 353
Women’s Court shoes 174
Ladies’ Best French Morocco shoes 41
Woods, Hugh 221
Woods, Tom 259
Worcester 85
workforce 129
size of Clarks’ workforce 28–9, 169, 198, 203, 229, 237, 352
division of labour 30
working hours 37, 68, 84, 138, 169, 193, 201, 226, 338
staff laid off (1858) 56
wages 56–7, 84, 85, 92, 126, 138, 139, 191, 192, 201, 299, 334
Street’s insufficient labour force 84
work-sharing 121
pension scheme 126, 192, 322, 325
and patriarchal, paternal tradition 134
overtime 147
deaths in Second World War 156
achieving speed of output required 169
training and employee ideas at Mayflower 172
grades of employee 191–2
redundancies 226, 242, 265, 307, 340
and closure of Silflex 264
Speak Up service 353
shop assistants 358–9
‘Leap Training’ 358–9
see also outworkers; strikes
World Cup (1966) 225
World Trade Center, New York, terrorist attacks (September 11, 2001) 344
Wyles 266
Yeovil, Somerset 171, 179, 209, 231, 242, 265
York 89
York, Peter see Wallis, Peter
Young, Terence 216–17
youth market 213, 216, 218–19, 235, 271
Zambia 232
Zoccola, Alex 117
Zurich 230