Plan Your Trip
Eat & Drink Like a Local
Whether it's feasting on fresh-caught fish in Marseille or tucking into a rich country stew in Haute-Provence, this is one corner of France where food isn't just an important part of everyday life – it's often the main event.
The Year in Food
Spring (Mar–May)
Spring lambs are a traditional Easter meat across Provence; in Camargue, bull meat (stewed or cured in saucissons) is another favourite.
Summer (Jun–Aug)
Peak food season in Provence, when olives and grapes ripen, tomatoes and peppers explode with flavour, and peaches, cherries and nectarines dangle from the trees. It's a time of year made for al fresco eating – and the locals take full advantage.
Autumn (Sep–Nov)
Harvest time: this is when the year's wines and olive oils are bottled. It's also chestnut harvest in Collobrières, just in time to make marrons glacés (glazed chestnuts) for Christmas.
Winter (Dec–Feb)
Truffle season: locals head out in their droves to seek these precious wild fungi. A Christmas tradition in Provence is to serve 13 desserts; you're supposed to try them all to have luck for the coming year. In February, Menton celebrates all things citrus with its lemon festival.
Food Experiences
Meals of a Lifetime
A good tip for experiencing gourmet cuisine without breaking the bank is to book for lunch – menus are always substantially cheaper than at dinner, even at the priciest establishments.
ARestaurant Pierre Reboul, Aix-en-Provence Run by one of Provence's most renowned chefs, this address in Aix-en-Provence has two settings: a fine-dining restaurant and a more relaxed bistro.
ALe Rhul, Marseille The address to eat authentic bouillabaisse and bourride (fish stew).
ALa Colombe d'Or, St-Paul de Vence (
%04 93 32 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor.com; place de Gaulle; mains €19-55; 
hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm mid-Dec–Oct; 
W) The joy of dining at The Golden Dove isn't just the food, it's the incredible art collection, donated by artists like Picasso, Chagall and Matisse, who swapped their paintings for a slap-up meal.
ALe Mas Candille, Mougins A luxurious hotel with a lavish, Michelin-starred restaurant to match, run by young Cannes native David Chauvac.
ALe Sanglier Paresseux, Caseneuve Provençal ingredients with exciting, exotic flavours supplied by the Brazilian-born chef – and a knockout view of the Luberon hills from the terrace.
ALa Bastide de Moustiers, Moustiers Ste-Marie Superstar chef Alain Ducasse's illustrious address, in a splendid setting near the Gorges du Verdon.
ALe Chantecler, Nice Le Negresco's mythical restaurant, a pink antique confection with superb service and food truly worthy of its two Michelin stars.
ASea Sens, Cannes Even if you're not an A-lister, you'll feel like one thanks to the stellar food at this Cannes restaurant.
AChez Bruno, Lorgues Truffles, truffles and more truffles: the black diamond finds its way into practically every dish here.
Cheap Treats
APissaladière The Niçois equivalent of pizza, topped with caramelised onions, olives, garlic and anchovies.
ASocca Another classic Niçois street snack, a savoury pancake made with chickpea flour.
APetits farcis Vegetables (tomatoes, onions, courgettes, courgette flowers) filled with a stuffing of mince, cheese, breadcrumbs, egg yolk and herbs.
ATapenade Olive dip, a common accompaniment to predinner drinks, eaten on crusty bread.
AAnchoïade Like tapenade, but made with salty anchovies and garlic.
AFromage de chèvre Goat's cheese is the staple fromage of Provence – the best comes from Banon, in the Luberon.
AOmelette aux truffes Truffle tasting on the cheap – a classic omelette flavoured with fragrant black truffles.
ACalissons d'Aix Aix-en-Provence's signature cakes are sweet and irresistible.
Dare to Try
AOursin Sea urchin is an acquired taste – eaten raw from the shell with a squeeze of lemon, it's pungent and very, very fishy.
APieds paquets For the adventurous diner: lambs' feet and stomachs simmered together in white wine.
ASaucisson de taureau Bull sausage is a common sight on menus around the Camargue. Trust us, it's meaty and delicious!
ASaucisson de sanglier Wild-boar sausage is cured, and it's much lower in fat than pig sausage.
AEscargots Snails are popular in rural Provence; they're very tasty doused in lashings of garlic butter, a bit like cockles or winkles.
Local Specialities
As befits a rural region, Provence's culinary specialities are rooted in cuisine paysanne (peasants' dishes), using unwanted fish and cheap cuts of meat to make sure that nothing is wasted.
COOKING COURSES
Many of the region's top chefs are more than happy to share their culinary secrets.
ALe Marmiton, Avignon Top chefs host cooking classes in a 19th-century château kitchen.
AL'Atelier de Cuisine Gourmande, Bormes-les-Mimosas Local chef Mireille Gedda specialises in regionally themed cooking workshops.
ALes Apprentis Gourmets, Cannes A boutique kitchen serving express cooking courses, from 30 minutes to two hours.
AAuberge La Fenière, Cadenet Hone your skills at this gourmet restaurant in the Luberon.
ALes Bacchanales, Vence In his 1930s townhouse in Vence, chef Christophe Dufau hosts classes exploring food-and-wine pairings.
ALa Vigne, Villefranche-sur-Mer This lovely B&B takes a relaxed approach to learning to cook.
AÉcole de Dégustation, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Not cooking but wine tasting – an equally essential skill.
Bouillabaisse
This pungent yellow fish stew has been brewed by Marseillais for centuries. It requires a minimum of four types of fresh fish (favourites include scorpion fish, white scorpion fish, weever, conger eel, chapon and tub gurnard) cooked in a rockfish stock with onions, tomatoes, garlic, herbes de Provence (a mix of thyme, rosemary, majoram, oregano and a few other herbs) and saffron (hence the colour).
The name bouillabaisse is derived from the French bouillir (to boil) and baisser (to lower, as in a flame), reflecting the cooking method required: bring it to the boil, let it bubble ferociously for 15 minutes, then reduce heat and simmer. Serve the bouillon (broth) first as a soup, followed by the fish flesh, in the company of a local wine, a white Cassis or dry Bandol rosé.
Authentic bouillabaisse has to be ordered a day in advance, and usually comes in a pot for two or more people to share.
Soupe de Poissons
A rich, velvety fish soup, soupe de poissons is made by boiling down fish, trimmings and bones into a thick broth. It's usually served with rouille (a spicy tomato condiment), crispy croutons and grated Gruyère cheese.
Soupe au Pistou
More stew than soup, the classic peasant dish soupe au pistou consists of a filling vegetable broth (beans, carrots, potatoes, courgettes, tomatoes and onions are all common ingredients), laced with lashings of olive oil, garlic and basil. Sometimes it comes with croutons, sometimes not.
Daube
A rich meaty stew, daube consists of beef braised in red wine, onions, celery, carrot, garlic and herbs. Like all stews, it must cook slowly for several hours; ideally, it is prepared the day before it's served.
Ratatouille
Provence is the spiritual home of the filling vegetable stew ratatouille, typically made with tomatoes, onions, courgettes, aubergines and red and green peppers, which have been cooked with aromatic herbes de Provence.
Brouillade de Truffes
A humble dish (scrambled eggs) with a gourmet twist (black-truffle shavings), brouillade de truffes allows the fungi's delicate flavour to shine through. It's a common course on truffle menus.
Stockfish (or Estocaficada)
The main ingredient of stockfish – re-hydrated dried cod – puts many people off, yet well prepared (and most restaurants that serve it are pros), this Niçois dish is up there with every regional speciality.
Dried cod is soaked in running water for several days, then stewed with onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and fresh herbs (fennel, thyme and parsley). Olives are added towards the end of cooking and the dish is normally served piping hot, splashed with a glug of olive oil. Nothing like it on a cold winter day!
Bourride
The fish stew bourride is similar to bouillabaisse but has fewer ingredients, a less prescriptive recipe, and often a slightly creamier sauce. It's customarily served with aïoli (garlic mayonnaise).
How to Eat & Drink
When to Eat
AThe classic French breakfast is a cup of coffee and a bit of yesterday's baguette with jam; croissants and pains au chocolat are reserved for weekend treats but usually feature as part of a hotel breakfast alongside cheeses, yoghurts, fruit and charcuterie. Breakfast is usually served from around 7.30am to 9.30am.
ALunch is often the main meal of the day; nearly everyone takes a couple of hours for lunch between noon and 2pm, often taking advantage of the plat du jour at a local brasserie.
AAlthough most restaurants open around 7pm, diners generally start trickling in around 8pm and often linger till 10.30pm or later.
Where to Eat
Dining à la provençal can mean anything from lunch in a village bistro to dining in a star-studded gastronomic temple. Irrespective of price, a carte (menu) or ardoise (blackboard) is usually hanging up outside, allowing you to check what's on offer before committing.
Bookings are always advisable in summer, particularly if you'd like a table en terrasse (outside).
AAuberge Inn serving traditional country fare, often in rural areas. Some also offer rooms.
ABistro (also spelled bistrot) Anything from an informal bar serving light meals to a fully fledged restaurant.
ABrasserie Very much like a cafe, except that it serves full meals (generally nonstop from 11am to 11pm) as well as drinks and coffee.
ACafe Serves basic food (cold and toasted sandwiches), coffees and drinks.
ARestaurant Most serve lunch and dinner five or six days a week.
CUSTOMS & ETIQUETTE
AForget balancing your bread on your main-course plate; crumbs on the table are fine.
AUsing the same knife and fork for your starter and main is commonplace in many informal restaurants.
ASanté is the toast for alcoholic drinks; bon appétit is what you say before tucking in.
AThe French generally end their meal with a short, sharp espresso coffee.
ASplitting the bill is seen as crass – except among young people.
AService is generally included, so leaving a tip is optional.
Menu Decoder
APlat du jour The dish of the day, usually great value.
AFormule A two-course menu, often served only at lunch. You can usually choose either starter and main or main and dessert.
AMenu Usually two or three courses, with a more limited choice of dishes compared to the à la carte menu.
AEntrées Starters.
APlats Main dishes, sometimes divided into viandes (meats) and poissons (fish).
ADesserts Desserts.
AÀ la carte Always the most expensive way to dine.
L'APéRO
L'apéro (short for l'apéritif, an alcoholic drink taken before dinner) is a national pastime in France, particularly in Provence and the Côte d'Azur. It's a pre-dinner drink accompanied by snacks; a classic is a shot of pastis or a glass of chilled rosé, served with marinated olives, crusty bread and tapenade.