| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Z |
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso: 456, 457
Abbey of San Fruttuoso: 457
A.C. Milan: 326
Accademia (Florence): 482, 490–491; reservations, 12, 489–490
Accademia (Venice): 48, 54, 65–67; map, 66; reservations, 12, 65
Accademia Bridge (Venice): 25, 47, 65
Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Acqua alta: 38–39
Agritourism: 1182–1183. See also specific destinations
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 1176
Airfares (airlines): 5–6, 1229–1230; carry-on restrictions, 13
Airports: Florence, 474; Milan, 340–342; Naples, 1003–1004; Perugia/Assisi, 783; Pisa, 591; Rome, 993–995; Venice, 122–125; Verona, 165
Alabaster Museum (Volterra): 672–673
Alabaster Workshop (Volterra): 678–679
Alighieri Theater (Ravenna): 195, 197
Almanac of Italy: xviii–xix
Alpe di Siusi: 239–248; biking, 243, 246–247; hiking, 244–246; map, 240–241
Alpine Gardens (Stresa): 287
Altar of Peace (Ara Pacis; Rome): 858, 875, 918–919
Altesino (near Montalcino): 741
Alto Adige: See Dolomites
Amalfi Coast: 1106–1135; bus tour, 1111–1114; maps, 1107, 1112–1113, 1118–1119; planning tips, 1106–1107; tours, 1010–1011, 1111; transportation, 1107–1111. See also Sorrento
Amalfi Town: 1114, 1124–1132; map, 1127
Amalfi Town Cathedral: 1128
Ambrose, Saint: 315–316, 322–323
American Bookstores: Milan, 296; Rome, 829
American Catholic Church (Rome): 905, 925
Amerigo Vespucci Airport (Florence): 474
Amphitheaters (arenas): Assisi, 749; Lucca, 597, 599; Pompeii, 1061–1062; Verona, 165–166, 169. See also Colosseum
Anacapri: 1095–1096, 1101–1102, 1104
Anatomy Theater (Padua): 137–138
Ancient Appian Way (Rome): 939–943; map, 940
Ancient Rome: 824, 870–879; eating near, 981–988; history of, 850, 856, 1148–1151; maps, 848, 871, 877, 954–955; self-guided walks, 847–857; sleeping near, 955–957; tours, 843–846
Andersen, Hans Christian: 437–438
Anthony of Padua, Saint: 147–153
Antica Civita: 817–818
Apartment rentals: 1180–1182
Appian Way (Rome): 939–943; map, 940
Aracoeli Church (Rome): 882
Ara di Cesare (Rome): 853–854
Ara Pacis (Rome): 858, 875, 918–919
Archiepiscopal Museum (Ravenna): 203
Arch of Constantine (Rome): 875, 876
Arch of Septimius Severus (Rome): 855
Arch of Titus (Rome): 849–850
Arco della Pace (Milan): 324
Arco di Tito (Rome): 849–850
“Arena” (Scrovegni) Chapel (Padua): 140–145; map, 143
ArenaMuseOpera (Verona): 177
Arengario Palace (Milan): 309–310
Argenti/Silverworks Museum (Florence): 515
Arian Baptistery (Ravenna): 191–194
Arian Heresy: 196
Arnikahütte: 246
Arno River: 467, 470, 567, 568
Arsenale (Venice): 74–75
Arsenal Museum (Amalfi): 1129
Art: Venice Biennale, 75, 80–81. See also specific artists
“Artisan Lane” (Volterra): 665
Art museums: reservations, 12; sightseeing tips, 1171–1173. See also specific art museums
Asciano: 700
Assisi: 743–783; eating, 781–782; festivals, 746, 748; helpful hints, 746, 748; information, 744–745; maps, 745, 752–753, 760–761, 778–779; shopping, 746, 755–756; sights, 749–775; sleeping, 776–780; transportation, 745–746, 748–749, 782–783; walking tour, 749–757
Assisi Pinacoteca: 772
ATMs: 1165–1167. See also specific destinations
Atrani: 1114, 1130, 1134; sleeping, 1131
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 12, 1231, 1232
Augustus: 206, 850, 854, 857, 865, 882, 887, 888, 918, 919, 1099, 1150, 1154; Mausoleum of (Rome), 858
Back Door travel philosophy: 15
Bagatti Valsecchi Museum (Milan): 303, 321
Bagnoregio: 811–821; eating, 821; maps, 810, 812; sleeping, 819; transportation, 809–811, 812–813, 821
Baia delle Favole (Sestri Levante): 437–438, 439
Baia del Silenzio (Sestri Levante): 439–440
Banca Intesa Sanpaolo (Naples): 1020–1021
Bancogiro (Venice): 109
Bandini Museum (Fiesole): 563
Baptistery: Florence, 483, 499, 502; Milan, 307; Padua, 138–139; Pisa, 583–584; Ravenna, 191–194, 203–204; Siena, 625, 640
Bardini Garden (Florence): 515
Bargello (Florence): 482, 511–512
Bars and cafés: overview, xx, 1190–1191. See also Nightlife; and specific destinations
Basilica Aemilia (Rome): 854
Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi): 758–772; maps, 764, 768; self-guided tour, 759–772
Basilica di San Francesco (Ravenna): 194
Basilica di San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Basilica
Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (Assisi): 773–775
Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio (Milan): 302, 315–316
Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo (Ravenna): 201–202
Basilica di San Vitale (Ravenna): 197–200
Basilica Nostra Signora della Rosa (Santa Margherita): 448
Basilica of Constantine (Rome): 850–851
Basilica of St. Anthony (Padua): 147–153; map, 148
Basilica of St. Clare (Assisi): 752–754
Basilica of St. Francis (Assisi): See Basilica di San Francesco
Basilica Palladiana (Vicenza): 162
Basilica San Paolo Fuori le Mura (Rome): 934–936
Basilica San Pietro (Rome): 874, 894–901; map, 899
Baths of Caracalla (Rome): 939
Baths of Diocletian (Rome): 875, 921–924
Baths of the Forum (Pompeii): 1054–1055
Baveno: 282
Beaches: 13; Atrani, 1130; Bonassola, 432; Capri, 1097; Cinque Terre, 357; Corniglia, 383–384; Guvano, 354, 384; Monterosso, 417; Riomaggiore, 357, 366; Vernazza, 357, 393, 397; Lake Como, 261, 273; Lake Maggiore, 284; Levanto, 431; Meta Beach, 1080; Ostia Antica, 943; Paraggi, 449, 455, 456; Positano, 1119, 1120; Punta del Capo, 1080–1081; Rimini, 207; Sestri Levante, 439–440; Sorrento, 1079–1081; Venice, 49, 55, 79
Beccafumi, Domenico: 632
Bella figura: xxii
Bellagio: 263, 270–277; eating, 275–277; map, 272; sights/activities, 271, 273–274; sleeping, 274–275; transportation, 270–271
Bellini, Giovanni: 64, 70–71, 146, 162, 177, 1033
Bell towers (campaniles): Castelrotto, 232–233; Florence, 483, 499; Pisa, 576–580; Venice, 54, 63
Bergamo Airport (Milan): 342
Bernini, Gian Lorenzo: 636–637, 861, 864, 867, 893, 900, 911, 914–915, 917, 924, 943, 1154–1155
Beverages: 1195–1200. See also Wine
Biking (bike rentals): Alpe di Siusi, 243, 246–247; Bolzano, 216; Cinque Terre, 357; Compatsch, 243; Florence, 479, 481; Levanto, 430–431; Lucca, 596, 603–604; Milan, 297–298; Portofino, 455; Ravenna, 190–191; Rome, 842–843; Santa Margherita, 444; Sorrento, 1074
Bishop’s Palace (Pienza): 719
Blue Grotto (Capri): 1096–1097, 1100–1102
Boating: Amalfi Town, 1126; Capri, 1098; Levanto, 431; Positano, 1120; Sorrento, 1081; Vernazza, 397. See also Kayaking
Boat travel: Amalfi Coast, 1043, 1109; Capri, 1095–1097, 1098, 1101–1102, 1105; Cinque Terre, 349–350, 397, 412–413, 418, 442; Lake Como, 252, 253–254, 256, 262–264, 270, 273, 279; Lake Maggiore, 281–282; Livorno, 559–561; map, 1213; Naples, 1002–1003, 1041; Portofino, 455; Portovenere, 464; Positano, 1120, 1124; Rome, 995–997; Santa Margherita, 452–453; Sorrento, 1070, 1092–1093; Venice, 29, 32–35, 79–80, 123–124, 125–126; Grand Canal cruise, 38–50
Boboli Garden (Florence): 515
Bocca della Verità (Rome): 878–879
Bologna: 207
Bolzano: 215–229; eating, 226–228; information, 215; map, 220–221; sights/activities, 217–223; sleeping, 224–226; transportation, 216, 228–229
Bolzano Cathedral: 217
Bolzano Dominican Church: 220
Bonassola: 431–432
Bone (Capuchin) Crypt (Rome): 875, 916
Books, recommended: 1231–1234
Borghese Gallery (Rome): 874, 912–915
Borghese Gardens (Rome): 911–912
Borgo Stretto (Pisa): 574
Borromeo Islands: 280–281, 282–285; map, 286
Brancacci Chapel (Florence): 483, 516–518
Branca Tower (Milan): 324
Bravio delle Botti (Montepulciano): 702, 706
Brera (Milan): 320–321; eating, 337–338; nightlife, 328
Brera Art Gallery (Milan): 303, 320–321
Bridge of Sighs (Venice): 49, 54, 62, 64
Brindisi: 940; transportation, 121, 339, 558, 993, 1041
Brothel (Pompeii): 1060
Brunello di Montalcino: 731, 736–742
Budgeting: 5–8
Buonconvento: 741
Burano: 55, 78; eating, 117; map, 77
Business hours: 1164–1165
Bus travel: 1223; best three-week trip, 6–7; map, 1213. See also specific destinations
Cable cars (funiculars): Alpe di Siusi, 242, 243; Capri, 1097–1098, 1104; Castelrotto, 235; Compatsch, 246; Naples, 1006–1007, 1021, 1032; Oberbozen, 221–222; Puflatsch, 246; Stresa, 286–287
Cabs: tipping, 1169. See also specific destinations
Cadenabbia: 278; sleeping, 277
Cafés: overview, xx, 1190–1191. See also specific destinations
Caffè Florian (Venice): 59
Caffè Pedrocchi (Padua): 135–137
Ca’ Foscari (Venice): 47
Calatrava Bridge (Venice): 41, 73–74
Caligula’s Palace (Rome): 852
Calvario (Castelrotto): 235
Campania ArteCard: 1002
Campaniles: See Bell towers
Campidoglio (Rome): 875, 879–880
Campo de’ Fiori (Rome): 860–861; eating, 970–971, 974; sleeping, 957–959
Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa): See Field of Miracles
Campo San Barnaba (Venice): 115
Campo Santa Margarita (Venice): 115–116
Campo Santa Maria Formosa (Venice): 90–91, 111–113
Camposanto Cemetery (Pisa): 584–585
Canal District (Milan): 303, 325, 338–339
Canals of Venice: See Venice canals
Canazei: 248–249
Cannaregio (Venice): 17, 41, 72–74; eating, 117–119
Cannaregio Canal (Venice): 41, 73
Canoeing: See Kayaking
Canova, Antonio: 62, 71, 146, 278, 312, 320
Cantine de’ Ricci (Montepulciano): 711–712
Ca’ Pesaro (Venice): 44, 55, 68–69
Capitoline Hill (Rome): 875, 879–882; map, 881
Capitoline Museums (Rome): 880–882
Capodimonte (Naples): 1033–1034
Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua): 140–145; map, 143
Cappella Sansevero (Naples): 1024, 1027–1028
Cappelle Medicee (Florence): 482, 495
Capri: 1093–1105; information, 1095; maps, 1069, 1094, 1096; sights/activities, 1099–1105; transportation, 1095–1098, 1105
Capri Cathedral: 1099
Capri Town: 1095–1099
Capuchin Crypt (Rome): 875, 916
Capuchin Friars Church (Monterosso): 416
Caravaggio: 320, 508; in Naples, 1020, 1025, 1029–1030, 1033; in Rome, 864, 892, 893, 906, 912, 917, 918
Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice): 47–48, 54, 68
Car insurance: 1226
Car leasing: 1226
Carrara: 463
Car travel (driving): 1226–1229; best three-week trip, 6–7; distances and time, 1228; road signs, 1229. See also specific destinations
Casa Buonarroti (Florence): 513
Casa di Dante (Florence): 502–503
Casa Rossa (Capri): 1103
Casinò, in Venice: 44
Castello Brown (Portofino): 456
Castello Sforzesco (Milan): 303, 321–324
Castel Nuovo (Naples): 1023
Castel Roncolo (Bolzano): 223
Castelrotto: 229–239; eating, 238; helpful hints, 231; information, 229–230; map, 230; nightlife, 236; sights/activities, 232–235; sleeping, 236–237; transportation, 231, 238
Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome): 875, 909–911
Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples): 1033
Castelvecchio (Verona): 177–178
Catacombs of Rome: 875, 919–920, 943, 944–945
Cathedrals: See Duomos
Catherine of Siena, Saint: 642
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence): See Florence Duomo
Cattelan, Maurizio: 314
Cattolica University (Milan): 316
Cell (mobile) phones: 12, 1200–1209
Centovalli: 287–288
Centrale Montemartini (Rome): 934
Central Market (Florence): 496, 539, 542
Cerasi Chapel (Rome): 918
Certosa e Museo di San Martino (Naples): 1033
“Chapel of Maradona” (Naples): 1024
Chapel of the Incarcerated (Civita): 818
Chapel of the Madonna del Voto (Siena): 636–637
Chapel of the Reliquaries (Padua): 151–152
Chianti: 616, 726; sleeping, 538, 652; tours, 481
Chigi Chapel (Rome): 917–918
Chiusi: 715
Christmas market (Bolzano): 217
Christ of the Abyss: 457
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 1153; sightseeing tips, 1173. See also specific churches and cathedrals
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona (near Montalcino): 741
Ciampino Airport (Rome): 995
Cicchetti, in Venice: 106, 108–109, 112–113, 116, 119; guided tours, 36
Cimabue, Giovanni: 506–507, 581, 766–767
Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 303, 326–327
Cinque Terre: 343–427; at a glance, 346; cards, 346–347; cuisine, 359–360; eating overview, 359–360; events, 351; flood and recovery, 391, 392; helpful hints, 360–361; map, 344; nightlife overview, 360; planning tips, 345–346; Riviera towns near, 428–464; sleeping overview, 357–359; transportation, 345, 347–350, 425–427. See also Beaches, Cinque Terre; Hiking, Cinque Terre; and specific destinations
Cinque Terre National Park: 346–347, 360
Circumvesuviana Train: 1042, 1091–1092; Herculaneum, 1062; Naples, 1004, 1044; Pompeii, 1046; Sorrento, 1070, 1091–1092
Civic Museums: See Museo Civico
Civita Church: 816–817
Civita di Bagnoregio: 811–821; eating, 820–821; helpful hints, 813–814; maps, 810, 812; sleeping, 818–819; transportation, 809–811, 812–813, 821; walking tour, 814–818
Civitavecchia: 995–997
Clare, Saint: 754, 773; Basilica (Assisi), 752–754
Classe: 206–207
Clock towers: Lucca, 600; Montepulciano, 706; Venice, 49, 52–53
Clothing sizes: 1240
Coastal Trail (Cinque Terre): 353–354, 356
Coffee: 1196–1197
Col dei Rossi Belvedere: 249
Colonna del Marzocco (Montepulciano): 705–706
Colosseum (Rome): 870–873, 876; eating near, 981–985; map, 871, 874; sleeping near, 955–957
Column of Phocas (Rome): 856–857
Communicating: 1200–1211
Como (town): 279–280
Como, Lake: 250–251, 254, 258–260, 270, 277, 278–280; beaches, 261, 273; boat travel, 252, 253–254, 256, 262–264, 270, 273, 279; kayaking, 273–274; maps, 251, 255
Compatsch: 239, 243–244, 247; sleeping, 248
Constantine: 196, 289, 926, 938, 944, 1151, 1154; Arch of (Rome), 875, 876; Basilica of (Rome), 850–851
Contucci Cantina (Montepulciano): 710
Cooking classes: Florence, 485, 556–557; Lucca, 597; Montepulciano, 702–703; Varenna, 264; Volterra, 683
Corniglia: 346, 381–385; beaches, 383–384; events, 351; hiking, 353, 354, 356–357; map, 382
Correr Museum (Venice): 54, 62–63
Corsignano Parish Church: 728
Corso (Montepulciano): 702, 705–707
Corso Cavour (Orvieto): 790, 791, 808–809
Corso Colombo (Sestri Levante): 437, 438
Corso Italia (Pisa): 573
Corso Porta Borsari (Verona): 170
Corso Rossellino (Pienza): 718
Cortina di Ampezzo: 233
Costs of trip: 5–8
Costume Gallery (Florence): 515
Costume Museum (Venice): 69
Crete Senesi: 726–727
Crown of Thorns: 161–162
Cuisine: xx, 1186–1188, 1192–1193; Cinque Terre, 359–360; Emilia-Romagna, 208–209; Lucca, 611; Milanese, 331, 334; Roman, 970–971; San Gimignano, 686; Tirolean, 227; Tuscan, 542–543; Venetian, 106–107. See also Cooking classes; Eating; Gelato; Wine and vineyards
Curia (Rome): 854–855
Currency and exchange: 1165–1167
Customs House (Venice): 49
Customs regulations: 1170–1171
Dalmatian School (Venice): 55, 74
Dante Alighieri: 142, 173, 1018, 1233; House (Florence), 502–503; Museum (Ravenna), 195, 205; Tomb (Ravenna), 195
Data roaming and smartphones: 1200, 1202–1203, 1206–1207
David (Donatello): 512
David (Michelangelo): 482, 490
Da Vinci, Leonardo: 311, 313–314, 508; Horse (Milan), 303, 325–326; The Last Supper (Milan), 12, 302, 317–319; Museums (Florence), 497; National Science and Technology Museum (Milan), 303, 317
Della Quercia, Jacopo: 602–603, 627, 640, 641
Della Scala (Scaligeri) Family tombs (Verona): 174
Devotional Column (Verona): 170
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Diocesan Museum: Assisi, 751; Pienza, 720
Discounts: 1165
Doge’s Palace (Venice): 49, 54, 61–62
Dolce Vita walking tour (Rome): 857–860, 875; eating, 979–981; map, 859
Dolomites: 212–249; about, 233; map, 213; planning tips, 213, 215. See also specific destinations
Dominican Church (Bolzano): 220
Domodossola: 287–288
Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra (Ravenna): 205
Donatello: 148, 149, 494, 503, 509, 512
Doria Pamphilj Gallery (Rome): 893
Doriforo: 1015
Dorsoduro (Venice): 17, 65–68; eating, 113–117; sleeping, 95–99
Drinks: 1195–1200. See also Wine
Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations
Ducal Palace (Venice): 49, 54, 61–62
Duccio di Buoninsegna: 506–507, 629, 636, 639
Duomos: architecture, 1153; sightseeing tips, 1173; Fiesole, 563; Florence, 482, 497–499; Milan, 299, 302, 304–307; Montepulciano, 711; Naples, 1029; Orvieto, 791–797; Pienza, 719–720; Pisa, 580–582; Ravello, 1133; Ravenna, 204; San Gimignano, 691; Siena, 632–638; Verona, 175–176; Volterra, 668–670
Durazzo Park (Santa Margherita): 446
Dying Gaul: 882
EasyItalia: 1163
Eating: 1183–1195; budget, 1189–1194; budgeting, 7; ordering tips, 1188; restaurant phrases, 1246; seasonal produce, 1184; tipping, 1169, 1185–1186. See also Cooking classes; Cuisine; Gelato; Markets; and specific destinations
Economy of Italy: xix, 1160–1161
Egyptian obelisk (Rome): 865
Eisack River: 223
Ekklesiasterion (Paestum): 1143
Electricity: 1165
E-mail: 1210–1211. See also specific destinations
Embassies: 1235
Engelrast: 246
Enoteca Oreste (Verona): 171
Entertainment: budgeting, 7–8. See also Nightlife; Opera
Ercolano (Herculaneum): 1062–1066; map, 1064
Eremitani (Padua): 145–147
Eremo delle Carceri (Mount Subasio): 775
Esino: 258
Etruscans: best sights, 677; map, 677; overview, 676–677. See also specific sights and museums
Etruscan Arch (Volterra): 664–665
Etruscan Museums: Orvieto, 798; Rome, 915; Volterra, 674–675, 678
Etruscan Necropolis (Orvieto): 800
Etruscan Tunnel (Civita): 818
E.U.R. (Rome): 936–939; map, 937
Euro currency: 1165–1167
Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella (Florence): 514
Farmhouse accommodations (agritourism): overview, 1182–1183. See also specific destinations
Farnese Collection (Naples): 1009–1012
Faro (Capri): 1104
Fazzini (Pericle) Museum (Assisi): 775
Ferragamo (Florence): 511, 520
Ferries: See Boat travel
Festa di Calendimaggio (Assisi): 746
Festa di San Francesco (Assisi): 746, 748
Festivals: 1236–1239. See also specific destinations
Field of Miracles (Pisa): 568, 576–586; map, 579; tickets, 577
Fiesole: 562–565
Fiesole Archaeological Area and Museum: 563
Fiesole Duomo: 563
Films, recommended: 1234
Firenze: See Florence
Firenze Card: 466, 471, 475–476, 486–488
Fish markets: Levanto, 430; Naples, 1031; Pisa, 575; Santa Margherita, 446, 448; Venice, 45, 120
Fiumelatte: 264
Fiumicino Airport (Rome): 993–995
Flavio Gioia: 1125
Florence: 465–561; at a glance, 482–483; arrival in, 472–474; daily reminder, 476–477; eating, 538–557; excursion areas, 562–565; helpful hints, 475–479; information, 470–471; layout of, 467, 470; planning tips, 465–466; shopping, 520–522; sights, 465–466, 486–520; sleeping, 523–538; tours, 481, 484–486; transportation, 472–474, 479–480, 557–561
Florence Duomo: 482, 497–499; climbing the dome, 483, 498–499; eating near, 544–545; Museum, 482, 502; sleeping near, 523–525, 528
Fontana Vecchia (Vernazza): 390
Fonte Gaia (della Quercia): See Fountain of Joy
Food: See Cicchetti, in Venice; Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Fish markets; Gelato; Markets; Olive oil; Panforte; Pecorino cheese; Pesto; Wine and vineyards
Fornillo Beach (Positano): 1120
Foro Romano (Roman forums): Assisi, 772; Paestum, 1141; Pompeii, 1051, 1053; Rome, 847–857, 874, 876–877; map, 848
Fortezza di Montalcino: 733
Fortezza di Montepulciano: 708–709
Fountain of Joy (della Quercia): 627, 641
Four Rivers Fountain (Rome): 861, 864
Fra Angelico: 491–492, 795, 796
Framura: 432
Francesca, Piero della: 320, 507
Franciscan Ethnographic Missionary Museum (Fiesole): 564
Francis I, Pope: 904–905
Francis of Assisi, Saint: 743, 772–775; Basilica of (Assisi), 758–772; biographical sketch, 747; message of, 762–763
Frari Church (Venice): 54, 69–71
Freud, Sigmund: 221
Funiculars: See Cable cars
Funivia del Renon (Bolzano): 221–222
Galileo Galilei: 137, 512–513, 575, 580, 581, 1156, 1197
Galileo Galilei Airport (Pisa): 591
Galileo Science Museum (Florence): 482, 510–511
Galla Placidia, Mausoleum of (Ravenna): 200–201
Galleria Borghese (Rome): 874, 912–915
Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence): See Uffizi Gallery
Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence): 482, 490–491; reservations, 12, 489–490
Galleria dell’Accademia (Venice): 48, 54, 65–67; map, 66; reservations, 12, 65
Galleria d’Italia Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano (Naples): 1020–1021
Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome): 893
Galleria Principe di Napoli (Naples): 1016
Galleria Umberto I (Naples): 1023
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan): 302, 308–309
Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanari (Vicenza): 162
Gallerie d’Italia (Milan): 302, 312
Gallery of Modern Art (Florence): 515
Galli Islands: 1104, 1111–1112
Gates of Paradise (Ghiberti): 499, 502
Gelato: 1194–1195; Bellagio, 276; Bolzano, 223; Corniglia, 382–383; Florence, 548–549; Levanto, 436; Lucca, 612; Milan, 336–337; Naples, 1026; Orvieto, 808; Padua, 158; Pienza, 720–721; Pisa, 574; Ravenna, 211; Rome, 865, 969, 979, 981, 984; San Gimignano, 696; Santa Margherita, 452; Sestri Levante, 442; Siena, 655; Sorrento, 1090; Varenna, 269; Venice, 121; Vernazza, 408; Verona, 175, 187; Volterra, 685
Geological Museum (Civita): 816
German Exchange (Venice): 45
Gesù Church (Rome): 892–893
Gesù Nuovo Church (Naples): 1023–1024, 1026–1027
Ghiberti, Lorenzo: 499, 502, 503
Ghirlandaio, Domenico: 74, 672, 673
Gianicolo Hill (Rome): 930
Giardino Giusti (Verona): 179
Giardino Rasponi (Ravenna): 204–205
Gioco del Ponte (Pisa): 571–572
Giotto di Bondone: 134, 146, 493, 506–507, 513, 772; Bell Tower (Florence), 483, 499; biographical sketch, 142; St. Francis Basilica (Assisi), 766, 769–771; Scrovegni Chapel (Padua), 141–145
Gittana: eating, 268
Giudecca Canal (Venice): 117, 119
Giusti Garden (Verona): 179
Glass Museum (Murano): 77-78
Glurns: 249
Golden Altarpiece (Venice): 60
Goldknopt: 247
Gondolas, in Venice: 79–80
Government of Italy: xix, 1160–1161
Grand Canal (Venice): 17, 38–50; eating alongside, 109; map, 42–43
Grande Strada delle Dolomiti: 248
Gran Teatro alla Fenice (Venice): 63–64, 83
Grassi Palace (Venice): 47, 64
Great Dolomite Road: 248–249
Greco, Emilio: 792; Museum (Orvieto), 798
Greek Memorial Tomb (Paestum): 1141
Groppo: 356
Grotta Azzurra (Capri): 1096–1097, 1100–1102
Gucci Museum (Florence): 511, 520
Guggenheim (Peggy) Collection (Venice): 48, 54, 67
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1230; updates, 3, 12, 26
Guinigi Tower (Lucca): 604–605
Guvano Beach (Cinque Terre): 354, 384
Hadrian: 864, 865, 891, 909–911, 1151
Haring, Keith: 573
Harry’s American Bar (Venice): 84
Herculaneum: 1062–1066; map, 1064
Hermitage (Mount Subasio): 775
Hiking: Alpe di Siusi, 244–246; Amalfi Coast, 1129–1130, 1134; Assisi, 772; Atrani, 1130; Bagnoregio, 813; Capri, 1097, 1104–1105; Cinque Terre, 346–347, 350–357; Corniglia, 353, 354, 356–357; Manarola, 353–354, 356–357, 372, 376–377; Monterosso, 354, 417–418; Riomaggiore, 353–354, 366–367; Vernazza, 354, 357; Dolomites, 215, 223, 229, 239, 244–246; Lake Como region, 264, 273, 277; Lake Maggiore region, 287; Levanto, 357, 429, 431–432; Orvieto, 800–801; Pontone, 1129–1130; Portofino, 455, 456; San Gimignano, 691; Via Francigena, 722; Volterra, 680
Hill towns of central Italy: 613–821; maps, 614, 615, 616; transportation, 614–617. See also specific towns
History: 1148–1161
Holidays: 1236–1239
Horse (da Vinci): 303, 325–326
Hospital of the Innocents (Florence): 491
Hostels: overview, 1179–1180. See also specific destinations
Hotels: money-saving tips, 1174, 1176; overview, 1176–1179; reservations, 9, 1178–1179. See also specific destinations
House of Juliet (Verona): 172–173
House of Stone Carpets (Ravenna): 205
House of the Faun (Pompeii): 1057–1058
House of the Tragic Poet (Pompeii): 1056
House of the Vestal Virgins (Rome): 852
House of the Vettii (Pompeii): 1058–1059
Ice cream: See Gelato
Ice Man: 219–220
Il Campo (Siena): 625, 626–629; eating, 654–656; sleeping, 644–648
Il Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 303, 326–327
Imperial Forums (Rome): 874, 884–888
Information sources: 1162–1163. See also specific destinations
Internet access: 1202–1203, 1206–1207, 1210–1211. See also specific destinations
Internet calls: 1208
Internet security: 1211
Isola Bella (Lake Maggiore): 282–284
Isola Comacina (Lake Como): 279
Isola Madre (Lake Maggiore): 284–285
Isola Superiore (Pescatori; Lake Maggiore): 284
Italian Parliament (Rome): 865
Italian restaurant phrases: 1246
Italian Riviera: See Cinque Terre; Riviera
Italian survival phrases: 1245
Jewish Ghetto (Rome): eating, 969; sleeping, 959
Jewish Ghetto (Venice): 41, 72–73; eating, 117–119
Jewish Museums: Rome, 894; Venice, 73
Jewish Quarter (Rome): 893–894
John Paul II, Pope: 894, 900, 905
Juliet’s House (Verona): 172–173
Julius Caesar: 850, 855, 861, 887, 1149–1150, 1154; Temple of (Rome), 853–854
Kastelruth: See Castelrotto
Kastelruther Spatzen-Laden (Castelrotto): 234–235
Kayaking (canoeing): Cinque Terre, 357, 366, 417; Lake Como, 273–274; Levanto, 431
Keats, John: 933
Klobenstein: 222
Kornplatz (Bolzano): 218
La Biennale (Venice): 75, 80–81
Lace Museum (Burano): 78
La Fenice Opera House (Venice): 63–64, 83
Lake Como region: 250–280; maps, 251, 255
Lake District: 250–288; map, 251. See also specific destinations
Lake Maggiore region: 280–288; map, 286
Lakes: See specific lakes
Language: German, 214; online translation tip, 1165; restaurant phrases, 1246; survival phrases, 1245
Language barrier: 1202
Language school, in Lucca: 597
Largo Taragio (Corniglia): 383
La Rinascente: Florence, 504, 552; Milan, 327–328, 335
La Salute Church (Venice): 48, 54, 67–68
La Scala Opera House and Museum (Milan): 302, 311–312
La Spezia: 458–463; map, 460–461
Last Supper, The (da Vinci): 12, 302, 317–319
Laubengasse (Bolzano): 218
Laurentian Medici Library (Florence): 495
La Vena di Vino (Volterra): 679
Leaning Tower of Pisa: 576–580
Leather, shopping for, in Florence: 521–522
Leather School (Florence): 512, 522
Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci (Florence): 497
Lemon Grove Garden (Sorrento): 1079
Leonardo da Vinci: See Da Vinci, Leonardo
Leonardo da Vinci National Science and Technology Museum (Milan): 303, 317
Leonardo Museums (Florence): 497
Le Potazzine (near Montalcino): 740–741
Lerici: 464
Levanto: 429–437; hiking, 357, 429, 431–432; map, 432
Lifts: See Cable cars
Li Galli Islands: 1104, 1111–1112
Limoncello: 1079, 1080, 1111, 1196
Linate Airport (Milan): 342
Livorno: 559–561
Locarno: 287–288
Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence): 508
Lombardy: See Milan
Lorenzetti, Ambrogio and Pietro: 628, 629, 758, 766, 767
Lubriano: 811
Lucca: 566, 591–612; eating, 610–612; helpful hints, 593, 596–597; history of, 598; information, 592–593; maps, 567, 594–595; sights, 603–606; sleeping, 607–609; tours, 597; transportation, 593, 612; walking tour, 598
Lucca Clock Tower: 600
Lugano: 280
Lungomare (Naples): 1031–1032
Machiavelli, Niccolò: 513, 1231
Madonna del Voto Chapel (Siena): 636–637
Madonna di Montenero: 366–367
Madonna di Vitaleta Chapel: 728
MADRE (Naples): 1032
Maggiore, Lake: 280–288; map, 286
Mail: 1211. See also specific destinations
Malpensa Airport (Milan): 340–341
Mamertine Prison (Rome): 878
Manarola: 346, 371–380; beaches, 357; eating, 380; events, 351; helpful hints, 372; hiking, 353–354, 356–357, 372, 376–377; information, 372; map, 374–375; sleeping, 378–379; walking tour, 373–378
Manfredi Lighthouse (Rome): 930
Mansi Palace (Lucca): 606
Mantegna, Andrea: 67, 74, 177, 178, 320, 910
Maps: to buy, 1231; legend, 2. See also Map Index
Maradona (Diego) Chapel (Naples): 1024
Marble Museum (Carrara): 463
Marco Polo Airport (Venice): 122–124, 126
Marina di Praiano: 1114
Marina di Puolo: 1081
Marina Grande (Capri): 1095–1097, 1101, 1105; map, 1096
Marina Grande (Sorrento): 1070, 1078, 1080; eating, 1090–1091
Marina Piccola (Sorrento): 1070–1071, 1080
Marinzen Lift (Castelrotto): 235
Mark, Saint: See St. Mark’s Basilica
Markets: seasonal produce, 1184; Asciano, 700; Assisi, 746; Bagnoregio, 814; Bolzano, 216, 228; Castelrotto, 232; Fiesole, 562; Florence, 485, 495–496, 503–504, 520; La Spezia, 459; Levanto, 430, 437; Lucca, 593, 596; Milan, 295; Montalcino, 733; Montepulciano, 703; Monterosso, 412; Naples, 1019; Orvieto, 789; Padua, 133, 153; Pienza, 717; Pisa, 571, 575; Ravenna, 197; Rome, 860–861, 933–934, 990; San Gimignano, 687; Santa Margherita, 448–449; Sestri Levante, 438; Siena, 623; Venice, 45, 69, 108, 120; Vernazza, 397; Verona, 171; Volterra, 663. See also Fish markets
Martini, Simone: 586, 628, 629, 766, 767, 797
Masaccio: 513–514, 516–517, 586
Massages, in Cinque Terre: 387, 413
Mastrojanni (near Montalcino): 741
Mausoleum of Augustus (Rome): 858
Mausoleum of Galla Placidia (Ravenna): 200–201
MAXXI (Rome): 915–916
Medical emergencies: 1163, 1235
Medici Chapels (Florence): 482, 495
Medici Fortress and Archaeological Park (Volterra): 679–680
Medici-Riccardi Palace (Florence): 483, 496
Medieval Festival (Volterra): 663
Menaggio: 277–278
Mendel Haus (Castelrotto): 234
Mercato Centrale (Florence): 496, 539, 542
Mercato Nuovo (Florence): 503–504
Mercato Rialto (Venice): 45, 69, 120; eating, 108–110
Meta Beach: 1080
Metric system: 1239–1240
Metro: Milan, 296–297; Naples, 1005–1006; Rome, 835–837, 838–839
Michelangelo Buonarroti: 463, 494, 495, 499, 508, 509, 512, 518, 635, 879–880, 898–899, 901, 1154; David (Florence), 482, 490; House (Florence), 513; Medici Chapels (Florence), 482, 495; Moses (Rome), 875, 889–890; Pietà (Rome), 900; Pietà Rondanini, 323–324; Sistine Chapel (Rome), 874, 907–909; Tomb (Florence), 513; walking tour, in Florence, 485
Milan: 289–342; at a glance, 302–303; arrival in, 293–295; eating, 331–339; helpful hints, 295–296; information, 293; layout of, 292–293; maps, 290, 297, 300–301, 332–333; nightlife, 328; vs. Rome, 292–293; shopping, 327–328; sights, 299–327; sleeping, 328–331; tours, 298–299; transportation, 293–295, 296–298, 339–342
Milan City Hall: 310
Milan Duomo: 299, 302, 304–307; eating near, 334–337; Museum, 307, 308; sleeping near, 329–330
Milan Pinacoteca Ambrosiana: 302, 313–314
Mobile (cell) phones: 12, 1200–1209
MoDo City Museum (Orvieto): 797–798
Money: 1165–1171; budgeting, 5–8. See also specific destinations
Montalcino: 731–737, 740; map, 732; wineries near, 740–742
Montalcino Museums: 734
Monte Amiata: 728
Montemartini Museum (Rome): 934
Monte Palatino (Rome): 874, 877–878
Monte Pana: 247
Montepulciano: 701–716, 725, 728; eating, 714–715; helpful hints, 703, 705; information, 702–703; map, 704; planning tips, 698–699; sights, 705–712; sleeping, 712–714; transportation, 703, 715–716
Montepulciano Civic Museum: 712
Montepulciano Duomo: 711
Monterosso al Mare: 346, 408–425; beaches, 417; eating, 422–425; events, 351; helpful hints, 412–413; hiking, 354, 417–418; information, 409; map, 410–411; nightlife, 360, 418–419; sights/activities, 357, 417–418; sleeping, 419–422; walking tour, 413–417
Monte Solaro (Capri): 1104–1105
Monte Testaccio (Rome): 933
Monti (Rome): 888–889, 981–984
Monticchiello: 723, 725, 729; eating, 715, 723
Montisi: 700–701
Monumental Cemetery (Milan): 303, 326–327
Moses (Michelangelo): 875, 889–890
Mountain lifts: See Cable cars
Mount Subasio: 775
Mount Vesuvius: 1055, 1066–1067
“Mouth of Truth” (Rome): 878–879
Movies, recommended: 1234
Munich: transportation, 239
Murano: 55, 76–78; events, 81, 1238; map, 76; shopping, 77, 81, 82
Musei Capitolini (Rome): 880–882
Musei Capitolini Centrale Montemartini (Rome): 934
Musei Civici agli Eremitani (Padua): 145–147
Musei di Montalcino: 734
Musei Vaticani (Rome): 874, 901–903, 906–909; map, 902
Museo Amedeo Lia (La Spezia): 458
Museo Archeologico (Naples): 1008–1015
Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige (Bolzano): 219–220
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Orvieto: 798
Museo Civico: Montepulciano, 712; Naples, 1023; Orvieto, 798; Padua, 145–147; San Gimignano, 692; Siena, 625, 627–628
Museo Civico del Marmo (Carrara): 463
Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico (Orvieto): 798
Museo Correr (Venice): 54, 62–63
Museo Dantesco (Ravenna): 205; House (Florence), 502–503
Museo della Cattedrale (Lucca): 603
Museo della Civiltà Romana (Rome): 938–939
Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Rome): 858, 875, 918–919
Museo della Via Ostiense (Rome): 932
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo: Florence, 482, 502; Orvieto, 797–798; Pisa, 5856
Museo dell’Opera e Panorama (Siena): 625, 638–640
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure (Florence): 493–494
Museo del Novecento (Milan): 302, 308, 309–310
Museo del Parco (Portofino): 456
Museo di Capodimonte (Naples): 1033–1034
Museo Diocesano: Assisi, 751; Pienza, 720
Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo (Venice): 69
Museo di San Marco (Florence): 482, 491–493
Museo Ebraico (Rome): 894
Museo Ebraico (Venice): 73
Museo Emilio Greco (Orvieto): 798
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Volterra): 674–675, 678
Museo Galilei (Florence): 482, 510–511
Museo Leonardo da Vinci (Florence): 497
Museo Naturalistico Archeologico (Vicenza): 162
Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Florence): 482, 511–512
Museo Nazionale della Scienza e Tecnica “Leonardo da Vinci” (Milan): 303, 317
Museo Nazionale di San Matteo (Pisa): 586
Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (Rome): 915
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Rome): 874, 920–921
Museo Pericle Fazzini (Assisi): 775
Museums: reservations, 12; sightseeing tips, 1171–1173. See also specific museums
Museum of Precious Stones (Florence): 493–494
Museum of Roman Civilization (Rome): 938–939
Museum of San Marco (Florence): 482, 491–493
Museum of the Imperial Forums (Rome): 888
Museum of the Liberation of Rome: 926–927
Museum of the Risorgimento: Milan, 303, 321; Padua, 136–137; Rome, 884
Museum of the Sinopias (Pisa): 585
Music: See Opera
Mussolini, Benito: 212, 214, 283, 289–290, 308, 314, 392, 825, 882–883, 885, 887–888, 904, 918, 936–938, 1155, 1158–1159
MUST Museum (Lucca): 605
Naples: 998–1044; eating, 1038–1041; helpful hints, 1004–1005; information, 1000; layout of, 1000; maps, 1001, 1006, 1017, 1036; planning tips, 999–1000; sights, 1008–1034; sleeping, 1034–1038; tours, 1007–1008, 1010–1011; transportation, 1001–1004, 1005–1007, 1041–1044; walking tour, 1015–1026
Naples Archaeological Museum: 1008–1015; eating near, 1040
Naples Civic Museum: 1023
Naples Duomo: 1029
Naples International Airport: 1003–1004, 1092
Napoli Sotterranea: 1030–1031
National Archaeological Museum of Orvieto: 798
National Museum of Rome: 874, 920–921
Naval Museum (Venice): 74–75
Naviglio Grande (Milan): 303, 325, 338–339
Neonian Baptistery (Ravenna): 203–204
New Bolzano: 222–223
Nightlife: budgeting, 7–8; Castelrotto, 236; Cinque Terre, 360; Milan, 328; Monterosso, 360, 418–419; Positano, 1120, 1121; Riomaggiore, 360, 367; Siena, 655; Sorrento, 1081–1082; Venice, 82–84; Vernazza, 360, 398–399. See also Opera
North Rome: 825, 911–916; eating, 979–981; map, 912
Nostra Signora della Rosa (Santa Margherita): 448
Oberbozen: 221–222
Obstplatz (Bolzano): 216, 218, 228
Olive oil: 351, 376, 438, 542, 702, 742
Oltrarno (Florence): 470; eating, 553–556; map, 516–517, 536–537; shopping, 521; sleeping, 534–535
Olympic Theater (Vicenza): 161
Opera: Milan, 302, 311–312; Naples, 1022–1023; Venice, 63–64, 83; Verona, 165–166
Oratory of St. George (Padua): 153
Oratory of Sant’Erasmo (Santa Margherita): 446
Oratory of the Dead (Monterosso): 415–416
Orcia River: 726
Orsanmichele Church (Florence): 503
Orta, Lake: 288
Orta San Giulio: 288
Orto Botanico (Padua): 154
Orvieto: 785–811; eating, 806–809; helpful hints, 789–790; information, 785, 788; maps, 786–787, 810; sights/activities, 791–801; sleeping, 801–805; transportation, 788–789, 809–811; walking tour, 790–791
Orvieto Classico: 785, 801, 1199
Orvieto Duomo: 791–797; map, 793; Museum, 797–798
Orvieto National Archaeological Museum: 798
Orvieto ramparts: 800–801
Ostia Antica: 943–946
Oswald-von-Wolkenstein Riding Tournament (Castelrotto): 231
Ötzi the Iceman: 219–220
Packing checklist: 1243
Padua: 128–159; eating, 156–159; helpful hints, 132; information, 129, 131; map, 130–131; sights, 133–154; sleeping, 154–156; transportation, 131–133, 159
Padua Botanic Garden: 154
Padua Civic Museums: 145–147
Padua University: 128, 137–138, 139
Paestum: 1114, 1135–1147; map, 1138; self-guided tour, 1139–1145
Paestum Archaeological Museum: 1143–1145
Paestum Archaeological Site: 1139–1143
Palace of the Civilization of Labor (Rome): 938
Palace of Tiberius (Rome): 852
Palatine Gallery (Florence): 514–515
Palatine Hill (Rome): 874, 877–878
Palazzi Papali (Orvieto): 797–798
Palazzo Balbi (Venice): 47
Palazzo Comunale (Montepulciano): 708
Palazzo Davanzati (Florence): 505
Palazzo dei Conservatori (Rome): 880–881
Palazzo dei Priori (Volterra): 665, 668
Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro (Rome): 938
Palazzo della Ragione (Padua): 134–135
Palazzo della Ragione (Verona): 173
Palazzo delle Exposizioni (Rome): 926
Palazzo del Popolo (Orvieto): 791
Palazzo del Quirinale (Rome): 926
Palazzo Ducale (Venice): 49, 54, 61–62
Palazzo Forti (Verona): 177
Palazzo Grassi (Venice): 47, 64
Palazzo Leoni Montanari Galleries (Vicenza): 162
Palazzo Mansi (Lucca): 606
Palazzo Massimo (Rome): 874, 920–921
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Florence): 483, 496
Palazzo Mocenigo Costume Museum (Venice): 69
Palazzo Nuovo (Rome): 882
Palazzo Pfanner (Lucca): 606
Palazzo Piccolomini (Pienza): 720
Palazzo Pitti (Florence): 483, 514–516
Palazzo Reale (Milan): 307, 308
Palazzo Reale (Naples): 1021–1022, 1030
Palazzo Strozzi (Florence): 504–505
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence): 482, 509
Palazzo Viti (Volterra): 671–672
Palazzo Zuckermann (Padua): 146–147
Palio (Siena): 634–635, 644, 1238
Panforte: 643–644
Panorama dal Facciatone (Siena): 639–640
Pantheon (Rome): 864–865, 874, 890–892; eating near, 977–979
Pantheon neighborhood (Rome): 824, 864–865, 890–893; eating, 970–979; maps, 862–863, 891, 958, 972–973; sleeping, 957–960
Papal audiences: 904–905
Paper Museum (Amalfi): 1129
Paragliding: 231
Parco Archeologico (Volterra): 679–680
Parco di Portofino: 456–457
Parco di Villa Durazzo (Santa Margherita): 446
Parco Sempione (Milan): 324
Parliament building (Rome): 865
Pasta: overview, 1186–1187
Pecorino cheese: 717, 718, 727, 1193
Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Venice): 48, 54, 67
Pellegrinaio Hall (Siena): 641
Perledo: 258
Perugia/Assisi Airport: 783
Pesto: 359
Pfanner Palace (Lucca): 606
Phone cards: 1210
Phone numbers, useful: 1235–1236
Phones: 1200–1210
Piazza Bellini (Naples): 1016, 1018
Piazza Brà (Verona): 164, 167–169
Piazza Capellini (Manarola): 374–375
Piazza Capranica (Rome): 865
Piazza Carità (Naples): 1019–1020, 1031
Piazza Chiara Gambacorti (Pisa): 573
Piazza Citadella (Lucca): 601
Piazza Colonna (Rome): 865–866
Piazza Dante (Naples): 1018
Piazza degli Affari (Milan): 314
Piazza dei Cavalieri (Pisa): 575–576
Piazza dei Mercanti (Milan): 308, 310
Piazza dei Mulini (Positano): 1116–1117
Piazza dei Signori (Padua): 134, 157
Piazza dei Signori (Verona): 173
Piazza dei Signori (Vicenza): 162
Piazza del Campidoglio (Rome): 875, 879–880
Piazza del Duomo (Milan): 302, 308
Piazza del Duomo (San Gimignano): 690
Piazza del Grano (Bolzano): 218
Piazza della Cisterna (San Gimignano): 689
Piazza della Frutta (Padua): 133–134, 157
Piazza della Madonna dei Monti (Rome): 889
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro (Lucca): 597, 599
Piazza della Repubblica (Florence): 504
Piazza della Repubblica (Orvieto): 791
Piazza della Scala (Milan): 311–312
Piazza della Signoria (Florence): 467, 505; eating, 545–547
Piazza delle Vettovaglie (Pisa): 571, 575
Piazza del Plebiscito (Naples): 1021–1022
Piazza del Popolo (Montalcino): 733–734
Piazza del Popolo (Ravenna): 194, 197, 202
Piazza del Popolo (Rome): 857–858, 916–917; map, 859
Piazza di Pietra (Rome): 865, 893
Piazza Duomo (Ravello): 1133
Piazza Erbe (Bolzano): 216, 218, 228
Piazza Erbe (Padua): 133–134
Piazza Erbe (Verona): 164, 171–172, 176
Piazza Garibaldi (Monterosso): 414–415
Piazza Garibaldi (Pisa): 574
Piazza Garibaldi (Ravenna): 195, 197
Piazza Gesù Nuovo (Naples): 1023–1024
Piazza Grande (Montepulciano): 708
Piazza Kraus (Castelrotto): 232
Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi (Rome): 930
Piazzale Michelangelo (Florence): 483, 518–519
Piazza Marconi (Vernazza): 393–394
Piazza Mino (Fiesole): 563, 564
Piazza Navona (Rome): 861, 864; eating near, 974–976
Piazza Pio II (Pienza): 716, 718–719
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore (Naples): 1024
Piazza San Giorgio (Varenna): 260
Piazza San Giovanni (Volterra): 669–670
Piazza San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Square
Piazza San Michele (Lucca): 601
Piazza Santa Chiara (Assisi): 752, 754–755
Piazza S.S. Annunziata (Florence): 483, 491
Piazza Tasso (Sorrento): 1075–1076
Piazza Venezia (Rome): 882–883, 885; map, 881
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (Pisa): 572–573
Piazza Walther (Bolzano): 217
Piccolomini Altar (Siena): 634–635
Piccolomini Library (Siena): 637
Piccolomini Palace (Pienza): 720
Picnics (picnicking): 1193–1194. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Pienza: 716–721, 728; sleeping, 729–730
Pienza Duomo: 719–720
Pietà (Michelangelo): 900
Pietà Rondanini (Michelangelo): 323–324
Pilgrim’s Rome: 825, 926–928; map, 927. See also Vatican City
Pinacoteca: Assisi, 772; Padua, 146; San Gimignano, 692; Siena, 625, 629, 632; Volterra, 672–673
Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Milan): 302, 313–314
Pinacoteca di Brera (Milan): 303, 320–321
Pio Monte della Misericordia (Naples): 1029–1030
Pisa: 567–591; eating, 588–590; helpful hints, 571–572; information, 569; maps, 567, 570, 579; sights, 576–586; sleeping, 586–588; transportation, 569, 571, 590–591; walking tour, 572–576
Pisa City Walls: 586
Pisa Duomo: 580–582; Museum, 585–586
Pisa Leaning Tower: 576–580
Pisano family: 145, 578, 580–586, 633, 636, 639
Pitti Palace (Florence): 483, 514–516
Pius II, Pope: 716, 718, 719, 720, 728
Pizza (pizzerias): 1189–1190; Naples, 998, 1038–1039. See also specific destinations
Plattkofelhütte: 245
Poldi Pezzoli Museum (Milan): 303, 321
Pompeii: 1045–1062; maps, 1046, 1048–1049, 1052; self-guided tour, 1050–1062; tours, 1010–1011, 1047–1048
Ponte della Costituzione (Venice): 41, 73–74
Ponte di Mezzo (Pisa): 573–574
Ponte Pietra (Verona): 175
Ponte Sant’Angelo (Rome): 911
Ponte Scaligero (Verona): 178
Ponte Vecchio (Florence): 483, 509–510
Pontone: 1129–1130
Population of Italy: xviii
Porcelain Museum (Florence): 515
Pordoi Pass: 248
“Porta all’Arco” Etruscan Arch (Volterra): 664–665
Porta al Prato (Montepulciano): 705
Porta Borsari (Verona): 170
Porta Marina (Pompeii): 1050
Porta Nolana Open-Air Fish Market (Naples): 1031
Porta Perlici (Assisi): 749, 750
Porta San Giovanni (San Gimignano): 689
Porta San Paolo (Rome): 932
Portovenere: 463–464; hiking, 357, 366
Porziuncola Chapel (Assisi): 774
Porziuncola Museum (Assisi): 775
Positano: 1113, 1114–1124; map, 1118–1119
Post offices: 1211. See also specific destinations
Pozzo di San Patrizio (Orvieto): 798–799
Praiano: 1114
Prato della Valle (Padua): 153
Precious Stones Museum (Florence): 493–494
Priscilla, Catacombs of (Rome): 919–920
Protestant Cemetery (Rome): 932–933
Puccini, Giacomo: 596, 600, 601; House (Lucca), 605–606
Puflatsch: 246
Punta Bonfiglio (Manarola): 377–378
Punta del Capo: 1080–1081
Punta della Dogana (Venice): 55, 68
Punta d’Oro: 247
Punta Spartivento: 258, 263, 277
Pyramid of Gaius Cestius (Rome): 931–932
Quadrilateral (Milan): 327
Quercia, Jacopo della: 602–603, 627, 640, 641
Quirinal Hill (Rome): 925–926
Rail passes: 9, 1220, 1221, 1232
Rail travel: See Train travel; and specific destinations
Ramaio Cesare (Montepulciano): 710–711
Raphael: 313, 320, 508, 893, 907, 917–918, 929, 1033
Rasponi Crypt (Ravenna): 206
Ravello Duomo: 1133
Ravenna: 188–211; eating, 208–211; helpful hints, 190–191; information, 189–190; map, 192–193; sights, 201–207; sleeping, 207–208; transportation, 190, 211; walking tour, 191–201
Ravenna Botanical Garden: 204
Ravenna Duomo: 204
Reader feedback: 13
Red House (Capri): 1103
Reggio: events, 351; hiking, 357
Reifenstein Castle: 249
Renaissance: overview, 493, 1154–1155. See also specific artists
Renaissance Palace (Civita): 814–815
Rental properties: 1180–1182
Resources from Rick Steves: 1230–1231, 1232
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Rialto Bridge (Venice): 45–46, 54, 69; eating near, 105–110, 116; map, 92–93; sleeping near, 91–94
Rialto market (Venice): 45, 69, 120; eating, 108–110
Rifugio Alpe di Tires: 245, 247
Rimini: 207
Rinascente: See La Rinascente
Riomaggiore: 346, 361–371, 366; beaches, 357, 366; eating, 370–371; events, 351; helpful hints, 362; hiking, 353–354, 366–367; information, 361; map, 364–365; nightlife, 360, 367; sights/activities, 357, 366–367; sleeping, 367–370; transportation, 362; walking tour, 362–366
Risorgimento: 1156–1158
Risorgimento Museums: Milan, 303, 321; Padua, 136–137; Rome, 884
Ritten, the: 221–222
Riva de Biasio (Venice): 41
Riviera: 428–464; map, 430. See also Cinque Terre
Rocca (San Gimignano): 691
Rocca Maggiore (Assisi): 772
Rocca Minore (Assisi): 749, 773
Roman amphitheaters: See Amphitheaters
Roman Civilization, Museum of (Rome): 938–939
Roman forums: See Foro Romano
Roman Holiday (movie): 858, 860, 878–879, 1234
Roman numerals: 1240
Roman theaters: See Teatro Romano
Rome: 822–997; at a glance, 874–875; arrival in, 826–829; daily reminder, 830; eating, 966–992; helpful hints, 829–831, 834–835; information, 825–826; layout of, 824–825; vs. Milan, 292–293; planning tips, 823–824; sights, 870–946; sightseeing tips, 829, 832–833; sleeping, 946–966; tours, 843–847; transportation, 826–829, 835–843, 992–997; walking tours, 847–867. See also specific neighborhoods
Rome, ancient: See Ancient Rome
Rome from the Sky (elevator): 884
Romeo and Juliet, in Verona: 163, 172–173
Rome Synagogue: 894
Romulus: 309, 639, 853, 880, 1148, 1154
Rondò: 728
Rostrum (Rome): 855
Royal Palace (Naples): 1021–1022, 1030
Runkelstein Castle (Bolzano): 223
Rupe (Orvieto): 800
Safety: See Theft alerts
St. Agnes Church (Rome): 864
St. Anthony Basilica (Padua): 147–153; map, 148
St. Catherine Sanctuary (Siena): 625, 642–643
St. Clare Basilica (Assisi): 752–754
St. Francis Basilica (Assisi): 758–772; maps, 764, 768; self-guided tour, 759–772
St. George’s Anglican Church (Venice): 27-28
St. James Chapel (Padua): 152
St. John the Baptist Church (Monterosso): 415
St. John the Evangelist Church (Ravenna): 191
St. Lawrence Church (Manarola): 376
St. Mark’s Basilica (Venice): 49, 53, 54, 56–60; map, 57
St. Mark’s Campanile (Venice): 54, 63
St. Mark’s Square (Venice): 49, 52–53, 54; cafés, 58–59, 84, 121; eating, 110–111; maps, 51, 86–87; nightlife, 84; sleeping near, 85–91
St. Mary of the Angels Basilica (Assisi): 773–775
St. Moritz: transportation, 269–270, 278
St. Oswald: 223
St. Patrick’s Well (Orvieto): 798–799
St. Paul’s Outside the Walls (Rome): 934–936
St. Peter-in-Chains Church (Rome): 875, 889–890
St. Peter’s Basilica (Rome): 874, 894–901; map, 899
St. Teresa in Ecstasy (Bernini): 924
Salerno: 1114; map, 1136; transportation, 1108, 1135–1136, 1146–1147
Salute Church (Venice): 48, 54, 67–68
Salviati Building (Venice): 48
San Bartolo Church (San Gimignano): 691
San Bernadino: 398
San Biagio Church (Montepulciano): 712, 725
San Brizio Chapel (Orvieto): 795–797
San Callisto, Catacombs of (Rome): 943
San Carlo alla Quattro Fontane Church (Rome): 925
San Clemente Church (Rome): 928
Sanctuary of St. Catherine (Siena): 625, 643
San Damiano Church (Assisi): 772–773
San Domenico Church (Siena): 625, 642–643
San Francesco Basilica (Assisi): See Basilica di San Francesco
San Francesco Basilica (Ravenna): 194
San Francesco Church (Fiesole): 564
San Francesco Church (Montepulciano): 709
San Francesco Church (Pienza): 718
San Francesco di Paola Church (Naples): 1021
San Frediano Church (Lucca): 599
San Giacomo Church (Santa Margherita): 446
San Gimignano: 686–697; eating, 695–696; helpful hints, 687; information, 687; maps, 661, 688; sights, 692–693; sleeping, 693–695; transportation, 660–661, 687, 697; walking tour, 689–692
San Gimignano Civic Museum: 692
San Gimignano Duomo: 691
San Gimignano Towers: 690, 692–693
San Gimignano 1300: 693
San Giorgio Church (Varenna): 260
San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice): 55, 65
San Giovanni Church (Lucca): 596, 602
San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome): 875, 926
San Ignazio Church (Rome): 865, 892
San Lorenzo Church (Florence): 494–495
San Lorenzo Church (Manarola): 376
San Lorenzo Market (Florence): 495–496
San Lorenzo Museum (Florence): 495
San Luigi dei Francesi Church (Rome): 864, 892
San Marco (Venice): 17, 49, 52–53, 56–64; eating, 110–113; maps, 51, 86–87; sleeping, 85–91
San Marco Basilica (Venice): See St. Mark’s Basilica
San Marco Campanile (Venice): 54, 63
San Marco Clock Tower (Venice): 49, 52–53
San Marco Museum (Florence): 482, 491–493
San Marco Museum (Venice): 60
San Martino (Naples): 1032–1033
San Martino Carthusian Monastery and Museum (Naples): 1033
San Martino Cathedral (Lucca): 602–603
San Maurizio Church (Milan): 302, 315
San Michele Cemetery (Venice): 55, 75–76
San Michele Church (Capri): 1103–1104
San Michele Church (Lucca): 601
San Miniato Church (Florence): 483, 519–520
San Paolo Fuori le Mura (Rome): 934–936
San Pietro in Vincoli (Rome): 889–890
San Polo Church (Venice): 55, 71
San Rocco School (Venice): 54, 71
San Rufino Cathedral (Assisi): 750–751
San Sebastiano, Catacombs of (Rome): 943
San Silvestro (Venice): 46–47
San Sisto Church (Pisa): 576
San Stae Church (Venice): 44
Santa Chiara Church (Naples): 1023–1024, 1027
Santa Corona Church (Vicenza): 161–162
Santa Croce (Venice): 17, 68–69
Santa Croce Church (Florence): 482, 512–513
Santa Giulia (Torrenieri): 742
Sant’Agostino Church (Orvieto): 791
Sant’Agostino Church (San Gimignano): 691–692
Santa Lucia train station (Venice): 20–21, 41, 99, 121–122
Santa Margherita Basilica: 448
Santa Margherita Ligure: 443–453; eating, 451–452; helpful hints, 444; history of, 447; information, 443; map, 445; sights/activities, 448–449; sleeping, 449–451; transportation, 443, 452–453; walking tour, 444–447
Santa Maria Assunta Church (Positano): 1117–1118
Santa Maria Belvedere (Corniglia): 383
Santa Maria degli Angeli (Assisi): 773–775
Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence): See Florence Duomo
Santa Maria del Giglio (Venice): 48
Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione Church (Rome): 916
Santa Maria della Salute (Venice): 48, 54, 67–68
Santa Maria della Scala (Siena): 625, 640–641
Santa Maria della Vittoria Church (Rome): 924–925
Santa Maria delle Grazie (Milan): 302, 317–319
Santa Maria delle Grazie (Sorrento): 1071
Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome): 858, 917–918
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Venice): 54, 69–71
Santa Maria in Aracoeli Church (Rome): 882
Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church (Rome): 878–879
Santa Maria in Trastevere Church (Rome): 929
Santa Maria Maggiore Church (Rome): 927
Santa Maria Novella Church (Florence): 482–483, 513–514
Santa Maria Novella Perfumery (Florence): 514
Santa Maria Novella train station (Florence): 470, 472, 557–558
Santa Maria sopra Minerva Church (Assisi): 756
Santa Maria sopra Minerva Church (Rome): 865, 892
Sant’Ambrogio Basilica (Milan): 302, 315–316
Sant’Anastasia Church (Verona): 174–175
Sant’Andrea Chapel (Ravenna): 203
Sant’Angelo (Venice): 47
Sant’Apollinare in Classe: 206–207
Sant’Apollinare Nuovo Basilica (Ravenna): 201–202
Santa Susanna Church (Rome): 925
Sant’Elena (Venice): 75
San Tomà (Venice): 47
Santo Spirito Church (Florence): 518
Santo Stefano Church (Assisi): 757
San Vitale Basilica (Ravenna): 197–200
San Zaccaria (Venice): 49–50, 55, 64
San Zeno Maggiore Basilica (Verona): 178
San Zulian Church (Venice): 27
Sasso Lungo Mountains: 239, 243, 246
Scaligeri Family tombs (Verona): 174
Scams: 1163–1164. See also Theft alerts
Schlern, the (Sciliar): 239, 245
Schlernhaus: 245
Schloss Runkelstein (Bolzano): 223
School of Athens (Raphael): 907
Scrovegni Chapel (Padua): 140–145; map, 143
Scuderie del Quirinale (Rome): 926
Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio (Venice): 55, 74
Scuola del Santo (Padua): 153
Scuola San Rocco (Venice): 54, 71
Seasons: 8–9
Secret Room (Naples): 1013–1014
Seiser Alm: See Alpe di Siusi
Sella Pass: 248
Senate House (Rome): 854–855
Sestri Levante: 437–442; map, 439
Settimana Francescana (Assisi): 746
Sforza Castle (Milan): 303, 321–324
Shelley, Percy: 933
Shopping: budgeting, 8; clothing sizes, 1240; hours, 1164–1165; VAT refunds, 1169–1170; Assisi, 746, 755–756; Florence, 520–522; Lucca, 600; Milan, 327–328; Naples, 1023, 1025; Positano, 1117, 1120; Rome, 857, 858, 860, 867; Siena, 643–644; Venice, 81–82. See also Markets
Siena: 618–659; at a glance, 625; arrival in, 620–622; eating, 652–657; helpful hints, 623–624; information, 619; layout of, 619; maps, 620, 630–631, 646–647; nightlife, 655; shopping, 643–644; sights, 626–643; sleeping, 644–652; tours, 624, 626; transportation, 620–622, 657–659
Siena Archaeological Museum: 641, 643
Siena City Hall: 626
Siena City Tower: 625–629
Siena Civic Museum: 625, 627–628
Siena Duomo: 625, 632–638; Museum, 625, 638–640
Siena Palio: 634–635, 644, 1238
Siena Pinacoteca: 625, 629, 632
Sightseeing: at a glance, 10–11; best three-week trip, 6–7; budgeting, 6, 7–8; general tips, 1171–1173; priorities, 7–8, 8. See also specific sights and destinations
Signorelli, Luca: 74, 672, 795–797, 910
SIM cards: 1207–1209
Sinking Boat Fountain (Rome): 867
Sistine Chapel (Rome): 874, 907–909
Siusi (Seis): 237, 242; nightlife, 236; sleeping, 237
Skiing: 231
Sleep code: 1175
Sleeping: 1173–1183; budgeting, 7; money-saving tips, 1174, 1176; reservations, 9, 1178–1179; types of accommodations, 1176–1183. See also specific destinations
Sorrento: 1068–1093; eating, 1088–1091; helpful hints, 1071; information, 1070; maps, 1069, 1072–1073; nightlife, 1081–1082; sights/activities, 1079–1081; sleeping, 1083–1087; tours, 1071; transportation, 1070–1071, 1074, 1091–1093; walking tour, 1075–1078
Sorrento Cathedral: 1076
Sorrento Men’s Club: 1076–1077
Sorrento Musical: 1082
South Tirol Museum of Archaeology (Bolzano): 219–220
Spaccanapoli (Naples): 1019, 1023–1024, 1026; eating, 1039–1040
Spanish Quarter (Naples): 1021
Spanish Steps (Rome): 858, 860, 867, 918; eating near, 979–980
Special events: 1236–1239. See also specific destinations
Spedaletto Castle: 727
Spiaggia Grande (Positano): 1119, 1120
Spritz: 135
Straw Market (Florence): 503–504
Stresa Town: 285–288; map, 286
Student tour packages: 37, 486, 846–847
Subway: See Metro
Südtiroler Archäologiemuseum (Bolzano): 219–220
Swimming: See Beaches
Switchbacks of the Friars (Monterosso): 416
Tabularium (Rome): 881–882
Talvera River: 223
Tavola caldas: overview, 1191. See also specific destinations
Taxes: VAT refunds, 1169–1170
Taxis: tipping, 1169. See also specific destinations
Teatro alla Scala (Milan): 302, 311–312
Teatro di San Carlo (Naples): 1022–1023
Teatro Olimpico (Vicenza): 161
Teatro Romano (Roman theater): Fiesole, 563; Padua, 153; Pompeii, 1061; Verona, 178–179; Volterra, 673–674
Teatro Tasso (Sorrento): 1082
Telephone cards: 1210
Telephone numbers, useful: 1235–1236
Telephones: 1200–1210
Temperatures, average monthly: 1241
Tempietto (Rome): 930
Temple of Antoninus Pius and Faustina (Rome): 851
Temple of Ceres (Paestum): 1140
Temple of Hera (Paestum): 1142
Temple of Isis (Pompeii): 1060–1061
Temple of Julius Caesar (Rome): 853–854
Temple of Jupiter (Pompeii): 1051
Temple of Minerva (Assisi): 756
Temple of Neptune (Paestum): 1142
Temple of Saturn (Rome): 856
Temple of Vesta (Rome): 851–852
Tennis, in Sorrento: 1081
Terme del Foro (Pompeii): 1054–1055
Terme di Caracalla (Rome): 939
Terme di Diocleziano (Rome): 875, 921–924
Testaccio (Rome): 930–934; eating, 990–992; map, 931
Testaccio Market (Rome): 933–934
Theft alerts: 1163–1164, 1222; Florence, 475; Milan, 295; Naples, 1004; Rome, 831; Venice, 23
Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista: 68, 71, 83, 146
Time zones: 1164
Tintoretto: 61–62, 64, 65, 71, 146, 307, 320, 458, 606
Tirol: See Dolomites
Titian: 67, 71, 146, 153, 175–176, 458, 508, 893, 912, 1033
Todi: sleeping, 805
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Rome): 883
Toro Farnese: 1011–1012
Torre Branca (Milan): 324
Torre dei Lamberti (Verona): 173
Torre del Mangia (Siena): 625–629
Torre del Moro (Orvieto): 790
Torre Grossa (San Gimignano): 692–693
Torre Guinigi (Lucca): 604–605
Torrenieri: 742
Tourist information: 1162–1163. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 1232. See also specific destinations
“Trail of the Witches”: 246
Train travel: 1212–1223; best three-week trip, 6–7; general tips, 1220, 1222–1223; maps, 1213, 1214; overnight trains, 9; schedules, 1214, 1215; tickets, 1216–1219. See also Circumvesuviana Train; and specific destinations
Trajan’s Column (Rome): 874, 885–886
Trajan’s Forum (Rome): 874, 885
Trajan’s Market (Rome): 874, 886
Transportation: 1212–1230; budgeting, 6–7; map, 1213. See also specific destinations
Trastevere (Rome): 825, 928–929; eating, 967–969; map, 962–963; sleeping, 960–962
Travel insurance: 9
Travel smarts: 3–5
Travel tips: 1163–1165
Trevi Fountain (Rome): 866–867, 875, 893; eating near, 976–977
Treviso Airport (Venice): 125
Trip costs: 5–8
Tuff (tufo): 669
Turkish “Fondaco” Exchange (Venice): 41, 44
Tuscan Wine School (Siena): 623–624
Tuscany: agriturismo, 538, 617, 683, 729–731, 735, 780; “best of Tuscany” driving tour, 724–729; cooking classes, 556–557; cuisine, 542–543; driving distances and time, 616; geology, 726–727; guided tours, 486, 700–701, 740; hill towns, 613–821; map, 700–701; wine classes, 623–624. See also Fiesole; Florence; Lucca; Pisa; Siena
Uccello, Paolo: 507
Uffizi Gallery (Florence): 482, 505–508; map, 507; reservations, 12, 489–490
Umbria: 743–821; views of, from Assisi, 749, 754–755. See also Assisi; Civita di Bagnoregio; Orvieto
Umbria Jazz (Orvieto): 789, 801
Underground Naples: 1030–1031
Underground Orvieto: 798–800
University of Padua: 128, 137–138, 139
Val di Fassa: 248
Val d’Orcia: 721–731
Vaporetto, in Venice: 29, 32–33, 34–35
Varenna: 254–270; eating, 267–269; helpful hints, 257–258; information, 254–255; map, 256–257; sights/activities, 261–264; sleeping, 264–267; transportation, 251–256, 269–270; walking tour, 258–260
Varenna Castle: 261
Varenna Gardens: 261
Vasari Corridor (Florence): 510
Vatican City (Rome): 824, 894–909; eating near, 989–990; maps, 896–897, 964–965; museums, 874, 901–903, 906–909; papal audiences, 904–905; post offices, 904; sleeping near, 962–966. See also Rome
Vatican Gardens (Rome): 898
Vatican Museum (Rome): 874, 901–903, 906–909; map, 902
VAT refunds: 1169–1170
Venice: 16–126; at a glance, 54–55; arrival in, 20–23; daily reminder, 24; eating, 104–121; excursion areas, 127–211; festivals, 80–81; helpful hints, 25–28; information, 19–20; layout of, 17; nightlife, 82–84; passes, 50–52; planning tips, 17; self-guided cruise, 38–50; shopping, 81–82; sights, 50–79; sleeping, 84–104; tours, 36–37; transportation, 20–23, 28–35, 121–126. See also specific neighborhoods
Venice canals: 17; boat travel, 29, 32–35; eating alongside, 116–117, 119–120; gondola rides, 79–80; maps, 18, 30–31; self-guided cruise, 38–50. See also Grand Canal
Venice lagoon: 17, 75–79; map, 76–77
Venini (Murano): 77
Vernaccia di San Gimignano: 686, 1198
Vernazza: 346, 385–408; activities, 397–398; beaches, 357, 393, 397; eating, 404–408; events, 351; helpful hints, 387, 390; hiking, 354, 357; information, 386; map, 388–389; nightlife, 360, 398–399; sleeping, 399–404; walking tour, 390–397
Vernazza Castle: 395
Vernazza church: 394
Vernazza Harbor Square: 393–394
Verona: 163–188; eating, 182–187; helpful hints, 165–166; information, 164; maps, 168, 180; sights, 176–179; sleeping, 179–182; tours, 166; transportation, 164–165, 187–188; walking tour, 167–176
Verona City Hall: 168
Verona Duomo: 175–176
Veronese, Paolo: 61, 67, 71, 146, 161–162, 177, 320, 606
Via Abbondanza (Pompeii): 1053–1054
Via Brera (Milan): 337
Via Capo (Sorrento): 1069, 1086–1087, 1091
Via Cavour (Ravenna): 197
Via Colombo (Riomaggiore): 363–365, 370–371
Via Dante (Milan): 303, 324–325; eating, 337–338
Via Dante Alighieri (Florence): 547
Via dei Fori Imperiali (Rome): 884–888
Via dei Magoni (Orvieto): 790
Via dei Portici (Bolzano): 218
Via dei Tribunali (Naples): 1039
Via del Corso (Rome): 858, 866
Via dell’Amore (Cinque Terre): 353–354, 355, 363, 367
Via Diaz (Ravenna): 191
Via di Gracciano nel Corso (Montepulciano): 702, 705–707
Via Discovolo (Manarola): 375–376
Via Fillungo (Lucca): 599–600
Via Flavia (Rome): 986–988
Via Francigena: 722
Viale Farini (Ravenna): 191
Via Matteotti (Volterra): 670–671
Via Mazzini (Verona): 176
Via Montenapoleone (Milan): 327
Via Palestro (Santa Margherita): 448
Via Pignasecca Market (Naples): 1019
Via Porta all’Arco (Volterra): 665
Via Porta Perlici (Assisi): 750
Via San Cesareo (Sorrento): 1077
Via San Francesco (Assisi): 757
Via San Paolino (Lucca): 601
Via Santa Chiara (Assisi): 755–756
Via Santa Maria della Pietà (Sorrento): 1076
Via Toledo (Naples): 1018–1019, 1034, 1039
Via Veneto (Rome): 916
Via XX Settembre (Rome): 925–926
Vicenza Archaeological and Natural History Museum: 162
Victor Emmanuel II: 168–169, 308, 601, 627, 1019, 1022, 1155, 1158
Victor Emmanuel Monument (Rome): 875, 882, 883–884
Victory Monument (Bolzano): 222
Villa Borghese Gardens (Rome): 911–912
Villa Carlotta (Lake Como): 263, 278
Villa Cimbrone (Ravello): 1134
Villa Cipressi (Varenna): 261, 265–266
Villa Comunale (Sorrento): 1077–1078, 1079
Villa del Balbianello (Lenno): 278–279
Villa Durazzo (Santa Margherita): 447
Villa Farnesina (Rome): 929–930
Villa Giulia (Rome): 915
Villa Guinigi (Lucca): 606
Villa Jovis (Capri): 1099–1100
Villa La Rondinaia (Ravello): 1134
Villa la Rotonda (Vicenza): 163
Villa Melzi Gardens (Bellagio): 273
Villa Romana (Positano): 1118–1119
Villa Rufolo (Ravello): 1133–1134
Villa San Michele (Capri): 1102–1103
Villa Serbelloni Park (Bellagio): 271
Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens (Lake Maggiore): 285
Villa Valmarana ai Nani (Vicenza): 163
Vineyards: See Wine and vineyards
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: 702, 710, 711–712, 715, 738, 1198
Visitor information: 1162–1163. See also specific destinations
Vivaldi, Antonio: 83
Volastra: 356; hiking, 356–357, 376–377; sleeping, 379, 427
Volterra: 660–685; eating, 683–685; helpful hints, 663; information, 662; maps, 661, 666–667; sights, 664–680; sleeping, 680–683; tours, 663–664; transportation, 660–661, 663, 685
Volterra Duomo: 668–670
Volterra Pinacoteca: 672–673
Waltherplatz (Bolzano): 217
Water taxis, in Venice: 34–35, 124
Wayfarers’ Path (Lake Como): 264
Well of the Cave (Orvieto): 799
Williamshütte: 244–247
Wine and vineyards: xx, 1197–1200; Bellagio, 276; Cinque Terre, 359–360, 376–377, 383, 418; Florence, 543; labels and lingo, 1197–1198; Montalcino, 731, 736–742; Montepulciano, 702–703, 710, 711–712, 715, 738, 1198; Orvieto, 801; San Gimignano, 686, 696; Siena, 623–624, 655; Verona, 171, 184; Volterra, 679
Wine bars (enoteche): overview, 1191. See also specific destinations
World War I: 233–234, 392, 1158
World War II: 392, 409, 572, 585, 1142, 1145, 1159
World Wars Monument (Vernazza): 392