We turned an Instagram vacation photo into wall art by printing it “poster” size, hemming, and then nailing in place.
THROUGH THE VIEWFINDER
SKILLS LEARNED IN THIS CHAPTER
+ Resizing Images
+ Using the Lasso & Move tools
Photos are another easy way to get inspiration for a design—and they are plentiful! Whatever a camera can capture, you can translate into a cool surface design. Some photographic designs are very literal: The picture in its entirety becomes the design. But you can also crop out portions of photographs to use, or repeat elements from a photo to create a unique design.
Get yourself into creative mode by taking some time to look through the digital photos on your phone or your computer; try a stock photo site too, where you can purchase photos cheaply without having to pay a royalty fee each time you use them. Notice colors, shapes, and the play of light. Pay attention to elements that stick in your brain, and where your mind goes when you look at the image. Another great practice is to spend the day with your camera taking snapshots of anything that catches your eye. If you plan to use your photos for design later, it’s best to set your camera to shoot at “highest quality” or “fine” so you capture a lot of pixels; we’ll refer to these as “high-quality” photos in the project instructions.
We turned an Instagram vacation photo into wall art by printing it “poster” size, hemming, and then nailing in place.
Chances are good that a photo coming straight from your camera is not going to be the right size for your design, so once you have determined the size you need, you will use the Resize or Image Size tool in your image-editing program to convert it. (Remember that we are using the term “resize” to reduce an image in size.) For many projects, you will need the image to be an exact size, and how you determine that is related to everything you learned about pixels, image size, and resolution in Chapter 3.
Resize is usually found as an item in the “Edit” or “Image” menu. Some programs call it Image Size (Figure 1). You can resize based on inches or pixels, in case one makes more sense to you in the context of your project.
When you choose the tool and the dialog box opens, fill in the blanks with the numbers you need. Look for a link icon or a check box that says something like “Keep Proportions” or “Keep Ratio.” This will tell the program to keep the original shape or proportions of your image rather than distort it. In other words, if you started with a 4 × 6-inch (10 × 15 cm) rectangle and you want to make a smaller rectangle that keeps the same ratio, this option will adjust the width and height proportionally.
If the image needs to be a different shape than it started, you’ll use both the Crop tool (this page) and the Resize tool. For example, let’s say the photo is a rectangle, but you want it to be a square so you can make a pillow cover, as in the Portrait Pillows project on this page. Crop it to a square shape first and then resize to the dimensions you need.
Also, remember this very important tip about pixels from Chapter 3—yes, technically you can make an image any size you want, but if you try to “add” pixels to make it larger, it will look pixellated and won’t print clearly (this page). So, if you look at your image file and see there are not enough pixels to do what you want to do, choose a new image—or take a new photo with the camera set to capture more pixels, if that’s possible.
FIGURE 1 This is the Image Size tool in Photoshop. This is where you can enter the exact number of pixels you need for width and height.
With the Lasso tool you can cut an element from the background of a photo, like a stack of tapes (Figure 2), and use that element to create a repeating pattern (Figure 3). This tool looks like a loop of rope.
Click and drag the Lasso and you will see a dotted line appear where you have drawn. Make a closed loop by drawing all the way around the outside edge of the element you have selected.
Now you can copy and paste the element into a new blank canvas, where you can use it to create a repeating pattern or as desired.
The Move tool is used to move an element that you have selected. It looks like an arrow with compass points next to it.
Once you have made a selection with the Lasso tool, for example, switch to the Move tool by clicking it. This will let you click and move the element you have selected to a different place on the canvas.
Placing or Inserting a Photo
Sometimes you want to add an existing photo or image into the design you’re working on. To add an image, use the “Place” or “Insert” command and choose the file you would like to add. Usually you find this command in the “File” menu.
BECKA RAHN / MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Becka Rahn is a full-time artist and teacher, and a co-author of this book (she also designed the Squid Damask Shower Curtain on this page, and the Stacked Skeins Skirt on this page). She’s been teaching textile design for years, and she always likes to show her students the very first design she uploaded to Spoonflower: a stripe pattern of little orange goldfish and bubbles. Becka (whose screen name is beckarahn) works from photographs a lot because she likes the organic texture they lend to a design. For this scarf, she worked with a close-up photo of a string of beads.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
TO DESIGN THE FABRIC
A high-quality macro photo (this page)
Basic photo-editing software
Flexible fabric tape measure
1 or 2 yards (.9 to 2 m) of silk crepe de chine, silky faille, or other lightweight fabric (we used silk crepe de chine)
TO MAKE THE SCARF
Printed fabric
Basic sewing tools (this page)
designing the fabric
1 Resize the image.
Review the general photo-editing instructions on this page. For this project, the image should fill the full width of the fabric. Since Spoonflower’s different fabrics come in varying widths, choose the fabric to print on before resizing the image. We recommend a lightweight fabric with lots of drape.
Once again, our Pixel Equation (this page) helps us determine how many pixels we need in the image. For example, if the fabric width is 42 inches (107 cm), you will need the width of the image to be:
42 INCHES X 150 PPI = 6300 PIXELS
Remember, to prevent the image from distorting or squishing while being resized, choose the link icon or option that says “Constrain Proportions” or “Preserve Ratio” when resizing the image (Figure 1).
FIGURE 1 The little link icon connecting the words “Height” and “Width” shows us that the proportion of the image is locked. That keeps it from being distorted or squished while it is being resized.
2 Choose the scarf size, upload, and print.
Use a flexible tape measure held in a loop to help decide the size that’s right for your scarf; usually that’s between 42 and 70 inches (107 and 177.8 cm). You can cut out the scarf parallel to the grain or perpendicular to the grain of the fabric. But ultimately, you need a piece that is 24 to 36 inches (61 to 91 cm) on the short side by your ideal length on the long side. The scarf shown here was cut to 24 × 42 inches (61 × 107 cm) before sewing.
Save your image. Upload the design to Spoonflower (this page). You will need 1 to 2 yards (.9 to 2 m) of lightweight fabric to make the scarf, depending on the size you want. Choose a centered repeat if you order 1 yard (.9 m); choose a mirrored repeat if you order 2 yards (2 m).
making the scarf
3 Prepare the fabric.
Wash and dry the fabric. Press it to remove any wrinkles. Trim away the extra selvedge (the unprinted white edges) of fabric from the printed design and cut the rectangle to the size you determined in Step 2.
4 Match and sew.
Fold the fabric in half with right sides together and match the long sides of the rectangle. Pin.
Stitch, using a ¼-inch (6 mm) seam allowance. Your rectangle is now a tube. Reach inside the tube to the far end and begin to pull it through as if you were turning it inside out, but stop when the short ends are aligned; the right sides should be facing. Stitch around the short ends with a ¼-inch (6 mm) seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch (5 cm) opening for turning right side out.
5 Turn, press, and finish.
Turn the scarf right side out. Carefully press along the seamline at the long and short edges of the rectangles, taking care not to crease the edges of the tube. Stitch the opening closed by hand. You can wear your scarf as a single loop, or double it up for a cowl style, depending on the size.
Becka’s scarf design is created from a single macro shot—an extreme close-up—printed at a large scale. The best macro photos are high-resolution images with high contrast and one major design element that fills most of the image space.
HINTS FOR TAKING GREAT MACRO SHOTS
+ Set the camera to macro mode. This is usually indicated by a tulip-shaped icon on one of the menus or buttons on your camera. This helps the camera focus on objects that are close to the lens.
+ If the camera has interchangeable lenses, use a macro lens if you have one.
+ When framing the photo, choose an interesting area of the subject (i.e., the petals of a flower) and move in close enough to make that area fill the frame completely with no background showing.
+ Use a tripod or prop the camera to keep it steady and ensure a sharp photo.
+ Set your camera to a high-quality setting to capture the maximum number of pixels. Consult your camera manual to learn about settings.
Like the photos we used for the wall art on this page and the pillows on this page, this photo was originally posted on Instagram. Photo panels are a great way to preserve all types of memories and to personalize your home.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
TO DESIGN THE FABRIC
A high-quality photo
Basic photo-editing software
1 or 2 yards (.9 to 2 m) of basic cotton, sateen, or poplin (we used basic cotton)
TO MAKE THE PANEL
Printed fabric
Basic sewing tools (this page)
designing the fabric
1 Choose and resize a photo.
Review the general photo-editing instructions on this page. Choose your photo and use the Resize tool to fit it on your fabric. The size of the file is based on the fabric you choose and the size of the finished panel you want to make. We used the Pixel Equation to do the calculations (this page).
For example, 1 yard (.9 m) of basic cotton is 42 × 36 inches (107 × 91 cm). If you want your photo to fit the width of that fabric, then:
42 INCHES X 150 PPI = 6300 PIXELS
If you want your panel to be a different size, say 36 inches (91 cm) wide, you can resize the photo:
36 INCHES X 150 PPI = 5400 PIXELS
Depending on whether you have a landscape or portrait photo, you can also rotate the photo before you upload it to fit better on your chosen fabric. (To do so, look for something called Image Rotation, usually under the “Image” menu of your photo-editing program.) There are times where you can bend the “not enough pixels” rule and use a photo that’s not-quite-high-enough resolution for a project like this, especially if you’re printing on a highly textured fabric, but we recommend that you order a swatch first and make sure that the quality is what you want.
Keep in mind that when you order a swatch on Spoonflower, our system will automatically choose the bottom left corner of your design. You can see exactly what your swatch will look like in the preview. If there is another part of your design that you would like to check, you can use the Crop tool (this page) to crop and save a section of the design without changing any of the other settings. Upload this cropped section and print a swatch. This lets you choose a focal point of the design (like a face or the center of the flower) to make sure that the colors, quality, and sharpness are what you desire before you order the whole design.
Save your image. Upload the design to Spoonflower (this page) and choose a centered repeat (this page). Remember that you will need 1 to 2 yards (.9 to 2 m) of fabric, depending on the finished size of your design.
finishing the wall panel
3 Trim and hem.
Trim your printed panel following the edge of the printed design. You may choose to leave your panel with raw edges, or you can hem using a couple of different techniques. To make a double folded hem, turn under ¼ inch (6 mm) and press. Turn under another ¼ inch (6 mm) and stitch close to the inner folded edge. To make a narrow rolled hem, see the instructions on this page.
4 Hang your panel as desired.
We hammered small nails through our panel into the wall.
Photographer JENNY HALLENGREN flew to the States from Sweden to take the pictures in this book. But before she got here she started sending us some of her own photos for printing on fabric. We were especially struck by this image of tree branches. First we thought about using it really large on a shower curtain, but ultimately we settled on these napkins.
To create this variation, first crop your photo (this page) to a square shape.
When you are deciding how to crop your photo, keep in mind that ½ inch (1.2 cm) at each edge will be used for the hem, so anything on the very edge of the design will be not be seen. Also think about where the napkin will be folded when you place your design. For these napkins, we planned to fold them in half lengthwise and then in thirds. So the bottom center section of the napkin features the photo. It’s easy to print a test on regular paper and fold it like a napkin to check your photo placement.
Next, resize the photo to print at 17 × 17 inches (43 × 43 cm), which will give you a 16-inch (40.5 cm) finished napkin. Using the Pixel Equation (this page), 17 inches × 150 ppi = 1550 pixels.
Save and upload your file to Spoonflower (this page). You can fit one napkin on a fat quarter or choose a basic repeat (this page) to fill 1 yard (.9 m) of fabric (making 4 to 6 napkins, depending on the fabric you choose). To hem, follow the instructions for the Citrus Dish Towels on this page, omitting the ribbon hanger.
These pillows are a great way to celebrate the people and places we love and want to be reminded of often. Make new ones each year and watch the family grow!
MATERIALS & TOOLS
TO DESIGN THE FABRIC
One or more high-quality photos
Basic photo-editing software
1 yard (.9 m) of twill, faux suede, canvas, or sateen (we used twill) (see Note)
TO MAKE THE PILLOWS
Printed fabric
Backing fabric, ½ yard (.5 m) per pillow
Basic sewing tools (this page)
Rotary cutter
Self-healing cutting mat and acrylic quilting ruler
Pillow form(s), either 16 × 16 inches (40.5 × 40.5 cm) or 16 × 20 inches (40.5 × 50 cm)
A small amount of polyfill or other stuffing (optional)
Note: If you prefer to make a single pillow, you can fit either the square or rectangular version on a fat quarter of twill. Resize the photos as described in Step 1, and create the canvas to be 29 × 18 inches (73.7 × 46 cm) / 4350 × 2700 pixels per Step 2. Choose a centered repeat per Step 3. Follow Steps 4–8 to make your pillow.
designing the fabric
1 Measure your pillow, crop, and resize your photos.
Review the general photo-editing instructions on this page. This project is based on pillow forms that are 16 × 16 inches (40.5 × 40.5 cm) or 16 × 20 inches (40.5 × 50 cm). To allow for trimming and a seam allowance, add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to each side, so your photos will need to be a total of 18 × 18 inches (46 × 46 cm) or 18 × 22 inches (46 × 56 cm) to fit one of the pillow forms made in this project.
For a square pillow, first crop your photo (this page) to a square and then resize:
18 INCHES X 150 PPI = 2700 PIXELS
For a rectangular pillow, first crop your image to a 5:4 ratio rectangle. (This means that the length of the sides will have a relationship of 5 units wide to 4 units high. When you select the Crop tool, there is often a panel with options you can set to choose specific sizes or ratios to crop. To crop at a 5:4 ratio, look for a tool called “Constrain Proportions” or “Fixed Ratio” and choose 5:4.) After cropping, resize the image to 3300 × 2700 pixels and save the image. Review the Pixel Equation (this page) if you need a refresher on calculating pixels.
2 Create a canvas and add photos.
Create a new canvas in your image-editing program that is 1 yard/36 inches (91 cm) of your chosen fabric width; for example, these pillows are made with twill so the canvas is 58 × 36 inches (147 × 91 cm) or 8700 × 5400 pixels. Place or insert each edited photo into the canvas; you should be able to fit 4 to 6 pillow covers on 1 yard (.9 m) of fabric, depending on the pillow size and the fabric width. The seam allowance is included in the design, so you can place them right next to each other.
3 Save and upload.
Save the file and upload it to Spoonflower (this page). Choose a centered repeat (this page).
4 Prepare your fabric.
Wash, dry, and press your printed and backing fabrics.
5 Trim and cut the backing fabric.
Since the pillow fronts were printed slightly oversized to allow for fabric shrinkage, trim them to 17 × 17 inches (43 × 43 cm) for a square pillow or 17 × 21 inches (43 × 53.3 cm) for a rectangular pillow, which is the finished size plus ½-inch (1.2 cm) seam allowance.
For the backing, you will need two rectangles of your backing fabric that are the same width as the pillow front. To calculate the height of each backing piece, divide the overall height in half and add 5 inches (12 cm). So, for the square pillow you need two rectangles 17 × 13½ inches (43 × 34.3 cm); for the rectangle pillow you need two rectangles 21 × 13½ inches (53.3 × 34.3 cm). Cut the appropriate pieces for the pillow(s) you are making.
6 Hem your backing pieces.
Turn under ½ inch (1.2 cm) on one long side of each rectangle of backing fabric. Press towards the wrong side of the fabric. Then fold another 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the inside so you have a deeper hem and press. Stitch close to the folded edge. Repeat for the second backing piece.
7 Assemble your pillow.
Lay your pillow front face up on a table in front of you. Place a backing piece with right side facing down, aligning the raw edges of the backing piece and pillow front along their top edges, hemmed edge towards the center. Place the second backing piece to align with the bottom edge of the pillow, with the hemmed edges of the backing pieces overlapping in the center. Pin.
8 Stitch, trim, and finish.
Stitch around all four sides of the pillow using a ½ inch (1.2 cm) seam allowance. Clip the corners, turn right side out, and press. Insert your pillow form. If your pillow corners look a little limp, you can add a little stuffing into the corners to plump them out.
DARCI MOYERS, a beloved Spoonflower employee for five years, snapped these photos while visiting Uganda. Turning the photos into pillows was a terrific way to preserve memories and continue to enjoy the scenery. Many programs, like Instagram or PicMonkey, will allow you to apply filters and effects to photos. For this project, Darci used Instagram filters Rise (adding glow) and Mayfair (adding brightness) to give the photos an intense, saturated quality—and printing on faux suede helped intensify the effect. Filters can be a great way to add another layer to your design, but of course they’re not required. Follow the Portrait Pillows instructions to make these variations.
STEPHEN FRASER / CHAPEL HILL, NC
Although Stephen Fraser is the co-owner of Spoonflower, his wife, Kim, is still the one motivated to embark on ambitious domestic projects like making new curtains, wallpapering the bathroom with a swan design by Heather Ross, or sewing a new dress for one of their daughters using horse fabric—or Doctor Who–inspired fabric, depending on the daughter. Stephen (stephen_of_spoonflower on the site) is much more likely to try to create a plush dog pillow like this one, designed for Ruby, the first of the two rescue dogs that have come to live in their house. The best part? Unlike the real Ruby, the pillow version of her is actually allowed on the furniture.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
TO DESIGN THE FABRIC
A high-quality pet photo (see this page for more information about shooting a pet photo)
Basic photo-editing software
1 fat quarter of linen-cotton canvas, 27 × 18 inches (68.6 × 46 cm) or the fabric of your choice; other good options include faux suede, twill, or sateen
TO MAKE THE PILLOW
Printed fabric
1 fat quarter of a complementary fabric, 27 × 18 inches (68.6 × 46 cm); see “Getting a Color Match” on this page if you prefer to print your own fabric
Washable fabric-marking pen or chalk
Polyfill or other stuffing
Basic sewing tools (this page)
designing the fabric
1 Choose a photo and size it.
Review the general photo-editing instructions on this page. Choose a photo of a pet that is bright and clear with nothing in front of him or her. Use the Crop tool (this page) to crop close to all sides of the image, cropping away any extra background. The longest side of the image should be about 20 inches (50 cm), so it can fit on a fat quarter. According to our Pixel Equation (this page):
20 INCHES X 150 PPI = 3000 PIXELS
Resize to make the longest dimension of the image 3000 pixels (Figure 1). Be sure to click the “Keep Proportions” or Lock icon to make sure you don’t squish the image.
FIGURE 1 To fit the image on a linen-cotton fat quarter, we determined that the longest side needed to measure 20 inches (50 cm) / 3000 pixels.
Use the Lasso tool (this page) to carefully select your pet by drawing a selection line around the outside edge. Then copy the selection using the Copy function from the Edit menu (Figure 2).
3 Create a new canvas and paste.
Create a new file that is 27 × 18 inches (68.6 × 46 cm) / 4050 × 2700 pixels at 150 ppi (Figure 3). This is the size of a fat quarter of our linen-cotton fabric.
Paste your copied pet image into the new canvas. With the image selected, click and drag it with the Move tool (this page) to center it. Depending on the shape of your pet, you may need to rotate the image 90° to fit it on the fat quarter; remember that your image will print across the 27-inch (68.6 cm) width (this page). Look for an option to “Rotate” in the “Edit” or “Image” menu or a Rotate tool that looks like a circular arrow.
Note: Stephen decided to have a little fun with Ruby’s photo and used an adjustment in Photoshop called “Posterize” to soften her colors and then experimented with other filters until he created the effect he liked. You can use effects to manipulate your pet’s photo too, or just use the photo as it is.
4 Save, upload, and print.
Save the image. Upload it to Spoonflower (this page), choose a fat quarter of the design on linen-cotton or the fabric of your choice and a centered repeat (this page).
Here are a few tips to help you shoot a great photo of your pet to use in this project.
+ Choose a photo that shows your entire pet with nothing overlapping or obscuring him or her.
+ Make sure the background is pretty clean. If you can get your pet to sit in front of a blank wall or on the sidewalk, it will be easier to crop him or her out of the image to make the pillow design.
+ It helps to have good contrast (this page) in your photo. If you have a dark-colored pet, try to shoot on a light background; do the opposite if you have a light-colored pet. Taking a photo with lots of light or on a bright day will help you see details better when your photo is printed. You can also adjust the brightness and contrast of the photo after you take it.
+ Take several different views of your pet to be sure you capture his or her endearing features, such as big, perky ears; a short, curly tail; or a long, handsome nose.
making the pillow
5 Cut out your pet’s shape.
Use a ruler and the fabric-marking pen to draw a seam allowance line ½ inch (1.2 cm) around the outside of the image. Trim away the extra fabric, following the seam allowance line. Place the pet fabric piece and the backing fabric right sides together. Pin the two pieces together and trim the backing fabric to match the edges of the printed piece.
6 Stitch and stuff.
Stitch around the edge of pillow using a ½-inch (1.2 cm) seam allowance, leaving a gap of about 4 inches (10 cm) in the seam at the bottom or side for stuffing. Clip the seam allowance around the curves and corners. Turn the pillow right side out and stuff it to the desired firmness. Slipstitch the opening closed.
Making these cheerful dish towels is quick and easy using photos taken with any basic digital camera. Take a look in your fridge and at your local market and you’re likely to find lemons, limes, grapefruits, and other fun, photogenic food, such as kiwis, star fruit, or heirloom tomatoes and potatoes in colorful shades. If you want to change to a non-food theme, photograph other items that are fairly flat, such as buttons, coins, or game pieces, for best results.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
TO DESIGN THE FABRIC
A high-quality photograph of fruit slices (or similar small flat objects) (see Note)
Basic photo-editing software
1 fat quarter of linen-cotton canvas per towel, 27 × 18 inches (68.6 cm × 46 cm)
TO MAKE THE TOWELS
Printed fabric
4 inches (10 cm) of narrow ribbon per towel, approximately ½ to ¾ inches (1.2 to 1.9 cm) wide
Basic sewing tools (this page)
designing the fabric
1 Crop and resize the photo.
Review the general photo-editing instructions on this page. Use the Crop tool to crop close to all sides of the object. Don’t worry if you have extra “junk” or shadows in the background of your photo—these will be removed in Step 2.
For this project, we made several repeat patterns in different sizes. The limes, for example are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide when printed, or 1 inch × 150 pixels per inch = 150 pixels. For the largest orange, we resized the photo to 4 inches × 150 pixels per inch = 600 pixels. (See “Putting Multiple Images Together” on this page for more about creating the “Fruit Salad” towel in the center.)
Choose a size for your repeat and then resize the image (this page) so that the longest dimension of the image is the size you calculated. Be sure to click the “Keep Proportions” or Lock icon to make sure you don’t squish the image.
2 Select your fruit.
Use the Lasso tool (this page) to carefully select the object by drawing a selection line around the outside edge. Take your time to get a nice smooth selection, then copy it using Copy from the “Edit” menu. By cutting out the fruit you can remove any imperfections in the background.
Note: Place the fruit slice or other object on a white plate or cutting board and take the photo from above. To avoid shadows, shoot your photo where there is soft, diffuse light from multiple sources.
FIGURE 1 The amount of space you leave around your object in your original image (see small boxes above) will affect how the design will look in repeat (see large boxes above). The design on the right is clearly denser than the design on the left.
3 Create a new canvas and paste.
Create a new canvas (this page) that is slightly larger than your object; this allows for some white space around the image. (For example, for the 150-pixel-wide image of the lime, we made a canvas that was 200 × 200 pixels.) Paste your object into this new canvas. With the image selected, use the Move tool (this page) to click and drag it to center it in the canvas. See “Understanding Negative Space” on this page and refer to Figure 1 to help you choose the size of your canvas.
4 Save, upload, and print.
Save the image. Upload it to Spoonflower (this page) and choose your favorite repeat style (see this page for a refresher). You will need a fat quarter of fabric for each dish towel you decide to make.
making the dish towel
5 Prepare your fabric.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric. Trim away the selvedges (unprinted edges).
6 Hem and finish.
To create a neat mitered corner as you hem and then add a ribbon hanger, follow the directions used in Steps 4 and 5 of the Recipe Tea Towel (this page).
To make the “Fruit Salad” version of this design that combines several images, follow the same steps to resize each image and cut each out from the background with the Lasso tool as in Step 2. Then create a new blank canvas that is about twice the size of your largest image; for example, if your largest image is 150 × 150 pixels, make a new blank canvas that is 300 × 300 pixels, and add the images as in Step 3. For this design, we placed the grapefruit in the center and then used the Move tool (this page) to put oranges, lemons, and limes in the corners of the canvas as shown, having about one-quarter of the image in the design and leaving the rest of each image to extend off the edges of the canvas. (You may need to know a little bit about Layers to do this, depending on your graphics program; check out this page for the basics.) Save and upload your design and then choose a mirrored repeat. The mirror effect will make anything at the edges of your design look like it matches up, creating an easy seamless repeat; in this case, because the original image is a round object, it makes your fruit look “whole” again.
