| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Y |
| Z |
Abbeys: about, 228–229; Montmajour, 65, 96; Notre-Dame de Sénanque, 226–227; St. Hilaire, 231
Absinthe: 419
Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Agriculture: 45, 478–479; farm visits, 470
Aigues-Mortes: 108–109
Aiguines: 460–461; eating, 463; sleeping, 463
Airfares (airlines): 25, 552–553
Airports: Marseille, 261, 263, 280; Nice, 355, 362–363
Aix-en-Provence: 276–294; eating, 291–293; helpful hints, 280–281; history, 282; as home base, 36; map, 278–279; sights/activities, 283–290; sleeping, 290–291; tourist information, 277; tours, 281–283; transportation, 277, 280, 293–294; walking tour, 283–289
Aix-en-Provence City Hall: 287–288
Albert I, Prince of Monaco: 402, 403–404
Albert II, Prince of Monaco: 402–403
Albert I Park (Nice): 322
Almanac: 478–479
Amphithéâtre: See Arena
Ancient History Museum (Arles): 57, 74–77
Ancient Romans: See Romans, ancient
Angladon Museum (Avignon): 126–127
Antibes: 16, 411–430; eating, 428–429; helpful hints, 416; as home base, 297–298; layout of, 412; maps, 412, 414–415; sights/activities, 417–426; sleeping, 426–428; tourist information, 413; transportation, 413, 416–417, 429–430; walking tour, 417–419
Antibes History and Archaeology Museum: 419, 421
Antique Toy and Doll Museum (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 212
Apartment rentals: 504–508
Apple Store (Aix): 283
Apps: 28, 525; maps and navigation tools, 495, 543; messaging, 527–528; sightseeing, 497
Apt: 236
Aquarium, in Monaco: 404
Aqueducts: 42, 96; Pont du Gard, 154, 157–159
“Arc de Triomphe” (Orange): 170
Archaeological museums: 144–145, 343, 421
Archaeological sites: Chauvet Pont-d’Arc, 201–202. See also Romans, ancient
Ardèche Gorges: 201–202
Arena (amphithéâtre): Arles, 57, 64–65; Nîmes, 145–146
Arlaten Folk Museum (Arles): 57, 73–74
Arles: 12, 54–87; at a glance, 57; arrival in, 55–56; eating, 81, 84–86; excursion areas, 88–109; helpful hints, 56–57, 60; as home base, 34; maps, 58–59, 82–83, 89; planning tips, 54–55; sights/activities, 60–80; sleeping, 80–81; special events, 80, 555; tourist information, 55; transportation, 55–56, 60, 86–87; walking tour, 60–73
Arles Ancient History Museum: 57, 74–77
Arles City Hall: 67
Arles Classical Theater: 66–67
Arles Cryptoporticos: 67
Arles Forum Square: 57, 71–73; eating, 84–85
Art: of the Riviera, 305–306. See also Art museums; and specific artists
Art museums: Château de Villeneuve (Vence), 446; Collection Lambert (Avignon), 127; Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence), 444; Fondation Van Gogh (Arles), 57, 71; Fondation Villa Dartis (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue), 212; La Charité Museum (Marseille), 249, 255–256; Musée Angladon (Avignon), 126–127; Musée Calvet (Avignon), 127; Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice), 315, 343; Musée des Beaux-Arts (Nice), 343; Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon), 119–120; Musée Granet (Aix), 285; Musée Léger (Museum) (Biot), 426; Musée Masséna (Nice), 343–344; Musée Matisse (Nice), 315, 339–342; Musée National Marc Chagall (Nice), 315, 331–339; Musée Picasso (Antibes), 420–421; Musée Réattu (Arles), 57, 74; Musée Renoir (Cagnes-sur-Mer), 426; Musée Yves Brayer (Les Baux), 94; Museum of the Annonciade (St-Tropez), 438
Atelier de Cézanne (Aix): 289
ATMs: 489–493
Attitude, French: 30
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 28, 554
Avenue Jean Médecin (Nice): 326
Avignon: 12, 15, 110–137; at a glance, 118; eating, 132–136; excursion areas, 138–161; helpful hints, 114–116; as home base, 34–35; maps, 112–113, 139; sights/activities, 117–127; sleeping, 127–132, 130–131; special events, 117, 556; tourist information, 111; tours, 116, 138–139; transportation, 111, 114, 136–137; walking tours, 117–126
Avignon City Hall: 117
Avignon ramparts: 120–121
Avignon Synagogue: 124–125
Avignon Wine Tour: 39
Balazuc: 202
Balcon de la Mescla: 459
Ballooning: 221
Banks: alerting to travel, 28. See also Money
Barbegal Roman Aqueduct: 96
Bardot, Brigitte: 436, 479, 483
Basse Corniche: 376–378
Baths of Constantine (Arles): 74
Baux: See Les Baux
Beaches: Antibes, 412, 417, 424; the Camargue, 105; Cannes, 430; Cap d’Ail, 394; Cap Ferrat, 382–383, 384–385; Cassis, 268; Juan-les-Pins, 425; Menton, 409–410; Nice, 313, 320–323, 331; Pont du Gard, 156; St-Tropez, 436
Beaulieu-sur-Mer: 385, 393–394; hiking, 382, 384
Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 503. See also specific destinations
Beverages: 522–524. See also Wine and vineyards
Biking (bike rentals): 552; Antibes, 416; Arles, 56; Avignon, 115; Cassis, 272; Côtes du Rhône, 186; Gigondas, 196; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 209, 213; Luberon, 206; Mont Ventoux, 199; Nice, 312, 315, 317, 330–331; Provence, 38; St-Rémy, 98; Stes-Maries, 108; Vaison-la-Romaine, 176, 181; Villefranche, 368
Biot: 426
Boat travel (boating): maps, 532, 533; Antibes, 416; Avignon, 115; Cannes, 435; Cassis, 260, 271–272; Lac de Ste-Croix, 461; Marseille, 259–260; Nice, 315–316, 361; Riviera, 304, 315–316; St-Tropez, 437, 440; Villefranche, 372–373. See also Calanques; Canoeing and kayaking; Cruise ships
Bonbon Museum (Uzès): 160
Bonnieux: 230–231; eating, 223, 231; market, 206, 230
Books, recommended: 556–558; for children, 466–468
Bookstores: 114, 220, 280–281, 416
Bouillabaisse: 306–307, 374, 428
Boules: 79, 368, 436, 439, 470; about, 52
Boulevard La Canebière (Marseille): 244, 252–253
Braque, Georges: 285, 422, 438
Brayer, Yves: 94; Museum (Les Baux), 94
Breakfast: overview, 510
Brunet Chocolatier (Aix): 287
Budgeting: 25
Buis-les-Barronnies: 201; market, 163, 201
Bullfights (bullgames): 108, 146, 555, 556; Arles, 79
Buoux: 237–238
Buses: 539–540; best two-week trip, 23; Luberon, 205–206; maps, 532, 533; Nice, 309, 360–361; Provence, 37; Riviera, 300–301, 302–303, 361–362, 392–394, 441–442. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 489
Cabs: 540; tipping, 493. See also specific destinations
Café la Nuit (Van Gogh): 72, 85
Cafés (brasseries): overview, 514–516. See also specific destinations
Café Terrace at Night (Van Gogh): 72–73
Cagnes-sur-Mer: 426
Cairanne: 197–199
Calanque d’En-Vau: 270–271
Calanque Port-Miou: 270–271
Calder, Alexander: 444
Calvet Museum (Avignon): 127
Camargue, the: 105–109; transportation, 106–107; wildlife, 106
Camargue Museum (Stes-Maries): 106, 107
Campervan rentals: 543
Camping (campgrounds): 508–509
Camus, Albert: 239
Candy museum, in Uzès: 160
Cannes: 430–435
Cannes Film Festival: 299, 347, 430, 432–433, 556
Canoeing and kayaking: Ardèche Gorges, 201; the Calanques, 271–272; Lac de Ste-Croix, 461; Pont du Gard, 156; Sorgue River, 213
Cap Canaille (Cassis): 269, 272
Cap d’Ail: 394
Cap d’Antibes: 419; hiking, 424–425; sleeping, 427
Cap Ferrat: 378–385, 393; cruises, 315–316, 372–373; map, 380; planning tips, 379; sights/activities, 381–385; sleeping, 385; tourist information, 378; transportation, 379, 381
Cap Gros: 425
Cardin, Pierre: 231
Car insurance: 542
Car leasing: 542–543
Carré d’Art (Nîmes): 149
Car rentals: 25, 540–542. See also specific destinations
Carrières de Lumières (Les Baux): 95
Car travel (driving): 544–552; best two-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 548–549; general tips, 549–552; navigation options, 543–544; road signs, 544; the Camargue, 106–107; Grand Canyon du Verdon, 457–463; inland Riviera, 453–456; Luberon, 205; Nice, 309, 312; Provence, 37–38; Riviera, 301, 304; Three Corniches, 376–378. See also specific destinations
Casinos: Monte Carlo, 405–407; Nice, 322
Cassis: 264–276; with children, 469; eating, 275; helpful hints, 265, 268; maps, 243, 266–267; sights/activities, 268–273; sleeping, 273–274; tourist information, 264; transportation, 264–265, 276; wines, 52–53, 272–273
Castellum (Nîmes): 151–152
Castle Hill (Nice): 315, 323, 346
Cathédrale de la Nouvelle Major (Marseille): 256
Cathédrale de Monaco: 403–404
Cathédrale Russe (Nice): 315, 344–345
Cathedral of the Holy Savior (Aix): 288–289
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Caumont Centre d’Art (Aix): 285
Cavaillon: market, 206
Caveau de Gigondas: 197
Cave de Cairanne: 198
Cave du Verger des Papes (Châteauneuf): 173
Cave la Romaine (Vaison-la-Romaine): 180
Cell phones: See Smartphones
Centre de la Vieille Charité (Marseille): 249, 255–256
Cézanne, Paul: 34, 126, 277, 285, 286, 289; Atelier de Cézanne (Aix), 289
Chagall, Marc: 443, 444, 446; biographical sketch, 336–337; Museum (Nice), 315, 331–339; painting style, 335
Changing of the Guard (Monaco): 397, 403
Chapelle Cocteau (Villefranche): 370–371, 372
Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence): 446–447, 453
Chapelle et Phare de la Garoupe: 424
Chapelle Notre-Dame de Beauvoir (Moustiers-Ste-Marie): 461–462
Chapelle St. Pierre (Aiguines): 461
Chapel of Penitents (Les Baux): 94
Chapel of St. Pierre (Villefranche): 370–371, 372
Chapel of the Rosary (Vence): 446–447, 453
Charité Museum (Marseille): 249, 255–256
Château de Cassis: 274
Château de la Canorgue Winery: 230
Château de la Chèvre d’Or (Eze): 388, 390
Château de Lourmarin: 239–240
Château de Villeneuve (Vence): 446
Château d’If (Marseille): 259–260
Château Eza: 388
Château Grimaldi (Antibes): 419
Châteauneuf-du-Pape: 48–49, 171–173
Château Redortier: 194
Chauvet Pont-d’Arc: 201–202
Cheeses: 45–46, 125, 135, 475, 512, 513, 521
Chemin des Bois Communaux: 181
Chemins de Fer de Provence: 346–347
Children, traveling with: 464–470; books and films, 466–467; parenting French-style, 465; planning tips, 464–466; sightseeing tips, 466–468; top sights and activities, 469–470
Chocolates: 69–70, 103, 287, 327, 455–456, 472
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 480; Cathédrale de la Nouvelle Major (Marseille), 256; Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes), 419; Monaco Cathedral, 403–404; Nîmes Cathedral, 147; Notre-Dame d’Alidon Church (Oppède-le-Vieux), 233; Notre-Dame de la Garde (Marseille), 249, 258–259; Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral (Vaison), 179; Notre-Dame des Anges (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue), 209; Russian Cathedral (Nice), 315, 344–345; St-Jacques Church (Nice), 329; St. Michael’s Church (Menton), 410; St. Michael’s Church (Villefranche), 369, 371; St. Michel Church (Roussillon), 218; St. Pierre Church (Avignon), 124; St. Réparate Cathedral (Nice), 330; Saint-Sauveur Cathedral (Aix), 288–289; St. Trophime Church (Arles), 57, 67–69; St. Vincent Church (Les Baux), 94
Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes): 419
Cicadas (cigales): 194
Citadel (Villefranche): 371–372
Clothing: See Fashion
Clothing sizes: 559
Cocteau (Jean) Chapel (Villefranche): 370–371
Coffee: 523–524
Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass: 193
Col de Vence: 453
Col d’Illoire: 460
Collection Lambert (Avignon): 127
Collias: 156
Colline du Château (Nice): 315, 323, 346
Colorado Provençal: 235–236
Confiseries Florian (Pont-du-Loup): 455–456
Conservatoire des Ocres et de la Couleur (Roussillon): 220
Constantine, Baths of (Arles): 74
Consulates: 488
Cooking classes: 176, 283, 316, 442
Corkscrew Museum (Ménerbes): 232
Costs of trip: 25
Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence: 51–52
Côte d’Azur: See Riviera
Côtes de Provence: 49–51
Côtes du Rhône: 12, 162–202; driving tours, 186–202; maps, 164–165, 188; markets, 163; planning tips, 185–186; transportation, 163; wine and vineyards, 48–49, 171–173, 180, 186–199; guided tours, 38–40. See also Orange
Côtes du Rhône Wine Road: 187–199
Count of Monte Cristo (Dumas): 259
Coursegoules: 454
Courses Camarguaises (Arles): 79
Cours Jean Jaurès (Avignon): 110
Cours Mirabeau (Aix): 277, 283–285; eating, 293
Cours St. Louis (Marseille): 253
Cours Saleya (Nice): 312, 323, 327–328; eating, 355
Cousteau Aquarium (Monaco): 404
Crèche Municipale (Arles): 71
Cruise ships: 37, 299; Cannes, 435; Marseille, 263–264; Monaco, 408–409; Nice, 363–364; Villefranche, 376. See also Boat travel
Cryptoporticos (Arles): 67
Cuisine: 518–522; of Provence, 44–46; of the Riviera, 306–307. See also Eating
Currency and exchange: 489–490
Customs regulations: 495
Cycling: See Biking
Daladier Bridge (Avignon): 115–116
De Gaulle, Charles: 483
Dentelles de Montmirail: 193
Dietary restrictions: 515
Discounts: 489. See also Money-saving tips
Domaine de Cabasse: 189
Domaine de Cassan Winery: 194–195
Domaine de Coyeux Winery: 196
Domaine de la Citadelle Winery: 232
Domaine de Mourchon Winery: 190–191
Domaine de Tara: 220–221
Drinks: 522–524
Driving: See Car travel
Drôme Provençale Loop Drive: 200–201
Ducal Palace (Nice): 328
Dumas, Alexandre: 259
Dynamic currency conversion: 492
Eating: 509–522; budgeting, 25, 26; with children, 465–466; dietary restrictions, 515; restaurant phrases, 565; restaurant pricing, 509–510; tipping, 493, 514. See also Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations
Economy: 478
Eleanor of Aquitaine: 96, 477–478, 482
Electricity: 489
Embassies: 488
Entrevaux: 346–347
Espace Van Gogh (Arles): 70
Euro currency: 489–490
Euroméditerranée (Marseille): 257
Exchange rate: 490
Eze-Bord-de-Mer: 387, 389–390, 394
Eze Church: 389
Eze-le-Village: 386–390
Farm visits: 470
Fashion: boutiques, 312, 383, 425, 434, 436, 476; clothing sizes, 559
Feria de Pâques (Arles): 80, 555
Festivals: 555–556. See also specific festivals
Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence): 444
Fondation Van Gogh (Arles): 71
Fondation Villa Dartis (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 212
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse: 212–213
Fontvieille: sleeping, 81
Fontvieille (Monaco): 395, 403
Food: cooking classes, 176, 283, 316, 442; what to buy, 471–472. See also Bouillabaisse; Cheeses; Cuisine; Eating; Macarons; Markets; Olives; Tapenade; Truffles
Food tours: 40; Aix-en-Provence, 282–283; Avignon, 116; Nice, 305
Fort Carré (Antibes): 417, 422
Fort de Buoux: 237–238
Forum des Cardeurs (Aix): 291–292
Forum Square (Arles): See Place du Forum
Fountain Garden (Nîmes): 149–150
Fragonard Museum (Grasse): 452
Fragonard Perfume Factory (Eze-le-Village): 389
Frank Gehry Tower (Arles): 78
French attitude: 30
French language: See Language
French Riviera: See Riviera
French Riviera Pass: 298–299
Frioul Islands: 259–260
Gallimard (Eze-le-Village): 389
Gambling: See Casinos
Gauguin, Paul: 72–73
Gehry (Frank) Tower (Arles): 78
Gignac: 236
Gîtes: 503–504
Glanum (St. Rémy): 97, 101–102
Gordes: 225–228; biking, 206; market, 206
Gorges de l’Ardèche: 201–202
Gorges du Verdon: 457–463; driving tour, 459–462; map, 459
Grand Canyon du Verdon: 457–463; driving tour, 459–462; map, 459
Grand Prix of Monaco: 299, 347, 395, 400, 402, 406, 556
Grasse: 450–453
Great Maritime Port of Marseille: 256–257
Gréolières: 454
Gréoux-les-Bains: 462
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 554
Gummi Bears: 160
Gypsies (Roma) of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer: 108
Haribo: 160
Herbes de Provence: 472
Hiking: Antibes, 424–425; Ardèche Gorges, 201; Buoux, 237–238; the Calanques, 270–271; the Camargue, 106; Cap d’Antibes, 424–425; Cap Ferrat, 381, 382, 384–385; Colorado Provençal, 235–236; Eze-Bord-de-Mer, 389–390; Eze-le-Village, 389–390, 391; Gigondas, 196–197; Grand Canyon du Verdon, 460, 461; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 212–213; Joucas, 224; La Turbie, 391; Les Baux, 95; Mont Ventoux, 199; Nice, 330; Oppède-le-Vieux, 232; Pont du Gard, 156, 157–159; Roussillon, 219–220; St-Rémy, 98; St-Tropez, 438–440; Vaison-la-Romaine, 181; Viens, 236; Villefranche, 372, 381, 382
Hill towns: overview, 190–191. See also Luberon hill towns
History: 477–481
Holidays: 555–556
Horseback riding, in the Camargue: 108
Hostels: overview, 508. See also specific destinations
Hot-air ballooning: 221
Hôtel Carlton (Cannes): 432–433
Hôtel de Cabre (Marseille): 255
Hôtel Dieu (Arles): 70
Hôtel La Mirande (Avignon): 123, 128, 132
Hôtel Le Calendal (Arles): 65, 80, 84
Hôtel le Golfe (Cassis): 268, 273
Hôtel Negresco (Nice): 317–319, 347, 350
Hotels: glossary of terms, 500; money-saving tips, 25–26, 498–499; overview, 499–503; reservations, 27, 504–505. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
Iles du Frioul: 259–260
Immigration (immigrants): 245, 257, 484, 485
Inland Riviera: 441–463; map, 442
International Museum of Perfume (Grasse): 451
Internet access: 528; with children, 468–469. See also specific destinations
Internet security: 529
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 207–215; eating, 214–215; helpful hints, 208–209; market, 206, 211; sights/activities, 210–213; sleeping, 213–214; tourist information, 207; transportation, 207–208; walking tour, 210–211
Itineraries: designing your own, 18–24; top destinations, 11–16
Jardin de la Fontaine (Nîmes): 149–150
Jardin d’Eté (Arles): 66
Jardin d’Eze: 389
Jardin du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 110, 118, 120
Jardin Exotique (Monaco): 404–405
Jeudi de Nîmes: 144
Joucas: 39, 224; eating, 224; sleeping, 222, 224
Juan-les-Pins: 425–426
Julien Bridge: 229–230
Kayaking: See Canoeing and kayaking
Kids, traveling with: 464–470; books and films, 466–467; parenting French-style, 465; planning tips, 464–466; sightseeing tips, 466–468; top sights and activities, 469–470
La Canebière (Marseille): 244, 252–253
La Capelière: 106–107
La Charité Museum (Marseille): 249, 255–256
La Ciotat: 272
La Citadelle (St-Tropez): 436
La Colombe d’Or (St-Paul-de-Vence): 443, 444–445
La Commune Libre du Safranier (Antibes): 419
La Condamine (Monaco): 396–397
Lacoste: 231; eating, 223, 231; market, 206
La Côte d’Azur: See Riviera
La Croisette (Cannes): 432
La Digue de la Mer: 107
La Fare: 195–196
Lagnes: 213
La Main Qui Pense (Arles): 70–71
Language: 30, 478; hotel phrases, 500; online translation tips, 489; picnic terms, 511; pronunciation guide, 562–563; restaurant phrases, 565; road signs, 546; shopping phrases, 475; survival phrases, 564; wine terms, 47–48, 524
Language barrier: 30
La Provence Profonde: 234–237
La Roquette (Arles): 73, 74, 86
La Rotonde (Aix): 283
La Route des Crêtes: 272–273
L’Atelier (Arles): 84
La Trophée des Alpes: 390–392
La Turbie: 390–392
Lavender: 22, 199–200, 226; about, 198
La Villasse Ruins (Vaison): 178–179
Le Barroux: 193
Le Bar-sur-Loup: 453, 454, 456
Le Bassin (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 211
Le Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass: 193
Le Colorado Provençal: 235–236
Léger, Fernand: 444; Museum (Biot), 426
Le Jardin du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 110, 118, 120
Le Mistral: 186
Le Monastère St. Paul de Mausole (St-Rémy): 99–101
Le Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 127
Le Panier (Marseille): 244, 249, 255
Le Petit Trains: See Tourist trains
Les Arcs-sur-Argens: 49–51
Les Baux: 89–97; eating, 97; map, 92; sights/activities, 91–96; sleeping, 96–97; tourist information, 91; transportation, 90
Les Deux Garçons (Aix): 286, 293, 374
Le Sentier des Ocres (Roussillon): 219–220
Les fêtes votives: 98–99
Les Halles (Avignon): 125, 135
Le Suquet (Cannes): 432, 433–434
Le Vin à la Bouche: 39
L’Occitane en Provence (Arles): 69–70
Louis XIV: 78, 210, 253, 258, 285, 287, 319, 389, 391, 482
Lourmarin: 39, 204, 239–241; market, 206, 240
Low Corniche: 376–378
Lower Town (Vaison-la-Romaine): 174, 180, 182–183, 184
Luberon hill towns: 14, 203–241; map, 204–205; markets, 206; planning tips, 203–204, 216; top restaurants, 223; transportation, 205–206
LUMA Foundation (Arles): 78
Maeght Foundation (St-Paul-de-Vence): 444
Mail: See Post offices
Maillane: 95
Maison Béchard (Aix): 284
Maison Carrée (Nîmes): 148–149, 153
Maison des Vins Côtes de Provence (Les Arcs-sur-Argens): 49–51
Maison Soulier Bakery (Arles): 69, 81
Malaucène: 192–193, 199, 200; market, 163; sleeping, 194
Manville Mansion City Hall (Les Baux): 93–94
Maps: navigation tools, 495, 543. See also Map Index
Marchés: See Markets
Marie Antoinette: 482–483
Markets: 7–8, 473–476; general tips, 7–8, 474; key shopping phrases, 475; types of, 473–474; Aix-en-Provence, 280, 286, 287, 288; Antibes, 416, 418–419, 428; Arles, 56, 78–79; Avignon, 125, 135; Bonnieux, 206, 230; Buis-les-Barronnies, 163, 201; Carpentras, 163, 475; Cassis, 265; Châteauneuf, 163, 171; Côtes du Rhône, 163; Coustellet, 206; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 206, 211; Lourmarin, 206, 240; Luberon, 206; Malaucène, 163; Marseille, 252–253, 261; Nice, 323, 327–328; Nîmes, 148, 152; Nyons, 163, 200; Orange, 163, 166; Roussillon, 206; St-Rémy, 97, 98, 103; St-Saturnin-lès-Apt, 206, 234; Sault, 200, 206; Tourrettes-sur-Loup, 453, 455; Uzès, 159, 160; Vacqueyras, 163, 196; Vaison-la-Romaine, 163, 175–176, 180–181; Vence, 445; Villefranche, 368
Marseille: 15, 242–264; arrival in, 244–247; eating, 261–262; helpful hints, 247–248; maps, 243, 246, 250–251; planning tips, 244; sights/activities, 249–260; sleeping, 260–261; tourist information, 244; tours, 248–249; transportation, 244–247, 262–264; walking tour, 249–259
Marseille Chamber of Commerce: 253
Marseille City Hall: 254
Marseille History Museum: 253
Marseille Marine Museum: 253
Marseille Provence Cruise Terminal: 263–264
Masséna Museum (Nice): 343–344
Massif de l’Esterel: 432
Massif des Calanques: 269–271
Massif du Puget: 264
Matisse, Henri: 328, 438; biographical sketch, 340–341; Chapel of the Rosary (Vence), 446–447, 453; Museum (Nice), 315, 339–342
Mayle, Peter: 34, 186, 215, 232, 239, 557, 558
Mazarin Quarter (Aix): 277, 283–286; eating, 293; sleeping, 290–291
Medieval Garden (Uzès): 160
Ménerbes: 232
Metric conversions: 559–560
Middle Corniche: 376–378
Mistral: 186
Mistral, Frédéric: 72
Mobile phones: See Smartphones
Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Nice): 315, 343
Monaco: 16, 394, 395–409; arrival in, 397, 400; eating, 407; helpful hints, 400–401; layout of, 396–397; map, 398–399; nightlife, 400; sights/activities, 401–407; sleeping, 407; tourist information, 397; transportation, 397, 400, 401, 408–409; walking tours, 401–404
Monaco Cathedral: 403–404
Monaco Grand Prix: 299, 347, 395, 400, 402, 406, 556
Monasteries: about, 228–229; St. Paul Monastery and Hospital (St-Rémy), 73, 99–101
Monet, Claude: 483
Money: 489–494; budgeting, 25; with children, 468–469
Money belts: 31, 247, 468, 490
Money-saving tips: 25–26, 489; Arles, 56; Riviera, 298–299; sights, 26; sleeping, 25–26, 498–499
Mont-Alban Fort (Villefranche): 372
Monte Carlo Ballet: 400
Monte Carlo Casino: 405–407
Mont Serein: 199
Moulin Saint Augustin: 227–228
Moustiers-Ste-Marie: 461–462; eating, 463; sleeping, 463
Movies, recommended: 558; for children, 466–468
Movie theaters: 469–470
Moyenne Corniche: 376–378
Murs: 224
Musée Angladon (Avignon): 126–127
Musée Archéologique (Nice): 343
Musée Calvet (Avignon): 127
Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice): 315, 343
Musée de la Camargue (Stes-Maries): 106, 107
Musée de la Romanité (Nîmes): 144–145
Musée Départemental Arles Antique: 57, 74–77
Musée des Beaux-Arts (Nice): 343
Musée des Boullions (St. Pantaléon): 227
Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (Marseille): 257
Musée d’Histoire et d’Archéologie (Antibes): 419, 421
Musée du Bonbon (Uzès): 160
Musée du Jouet et de la Poupée Ancienne (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 212
Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon): 119–120
Musée du Vin (Châteauneuf): 172
Musée Fragonard (Grasse): 452
Musée Granet (Aix): 285
Musée International de la Parfumerie (Grasse): 451
Musée Léger (Museum) (Biot): 426
Musée Masséna (Nice): 343–344
Musée Matisse (Nice): 315, 339–342
Musée National Marc Chagall (Nice): 315, 331–339; map, 333; self-guided tour, 333–339
Musée Océanographique (Monaco): 404
Musée Picasso (Antibes): 420–421
Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou (Grasse): 452
Musée Regards de Provence (Marseille): 257
Musée Renoir (Cagnes-sur-Mer): 426
Musée Yves Brayer (Les Baux): 94
Museon Arlaten (Arles): 57, 73–74
Museum of Old Nîmes: 147–148
Museum of Santons (Les Baux): 95
Museum of the Annonciade (St-Tropez): 438
Napoleon Bonaparte: 146, 284, 377, 479, 481, 483
Navette Fluviale (Avignon): 115
Nice: 16, 308–364, 393; at a glance, 315; arrival in, 309, 312; with children, 469; eating, 355–360; excursion areas, 365–394; helpful hints, 312–313; as home base, 297; layout of, 308–309; maps, 310–311, 318–319, 349, 352–353, 358; nightlife, 347; sights/activities, 316–347; sleeping, 347–355; tourist information, 309; tours, 314–316; transportation, 309, 312, 313–314, 360–364; walking tours, 316–330. See also Vieux Nice
Nice Airport: 362–363; sleeping near, 355
Nice Archaeological Museum: 343
Nice Fine Arts Museum: 343
Nice Modern and Contemporary Art Museum: 315, 343
Nice Narrow-Gauge Train: 346–347
Nice Opera House: 327
Nice Russian Cathedral: 315, 344–345
Nîmes: 140–154; eating, 152–153; helpful hints, 144; map, 142–143; sleeping, 152; tourist information, 141; transportation, 141, 153–154; walking tour, 144–152
Nîmes Arena: 145–146
Nîmes Cathedral: 147
Nîmes Fountain Garden: 149–150
Nîmes Old City: 146–152
Nîmes Roman World Museum: 144–145
North African immigrants (immigration): 245, 257, 484, 485
North African Market (Marseille): 249, 252–253, 261
Notre-Dame d’Alidon Church (Oppède-le-Vieux): 233
Notre-Dame de la Garde (Marseille): 249, 258–259
Notre-Dame de l’Annonciation (Nice): 329
Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral (Vaison): 179
Notre-Dame des Anges (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 209
Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey: 226–227
Nyons: 39, 200–201; market, 163, 200
Oceanography Museum (Monaco): 404
Ochre Cliffs (Roussillon): 219–220
Ochre Conservatory (Roussillon): 220
Old Grasse: 452–453
Old Nice: See Vieux Nice
Old Nîmes: 146–152
Old Port (Marseille): See Vieux Port
Olives (olive oils): 103, 200, 227–228, 326, 356–357, 472
Oppède-le-Vieux: 232–233
Oppède-le-Vieux Castle: 233
Orange: 164–171; eating, 170; map, 167; sights, 166–170; sleeping, 170; tourist information, 166; transportation, 166, 171
Orange City Hall: 170
Orange Roman Theater: 166–170
Orange Vélodrome (Marseille): 247–248
Packing tips and checklist: 28, 561
Palace of Justice (Aix): 286
Palace of the Popes (Avignon): 118, 122–123
Palais de la Bourse (Marseille): 253
Palais de la Méditerranée (Nice): 321
Palais des Papes (Avignon): 118, 122–123
Palais Lascaris (Nice): 329
Palais Maerterlinck: 393
Palais Princier (Monaco): 402–403
Panier District (Marseille): 244, 249, 255
Parc du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 110, 118, 120
Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon: See Grand Canyon du Verdon
Passage Agard (Aix): 286
Perfume: about, 451; Fragonard Museum (Grasse), 452; Fragonard Perfume Factory (Eze-le-Village), 389; International Museum of Perfume (Grasse), 451
Pétanque: See Boules
Petit Palais Museum (Avignon): 119–120
Petit Trains: See Tourist trains
Petrarch: 212
Phare de la Gacholle: 105
Philharmonic Orchestra (Monaco): 396, 400
Philip the Fair Tower (Villeneuve): 118, 127
Phoenicians, wine-growing almanac: 195
Phones: See Telephones
Picasso, Pablo: 74, 126, 285; biographical sketch, 422–423; Museum (Antibes), 420–421
Picnics: 510–512; glossary of terms, 511. See also Markets
Place Albert I (Antibes): 412
Place Amélie Pollonnais (Villefranche): 374
Place Audiberti (Antibes): 416
Place aux Herbes (Nîmes): 147–148, 153
Place aux Herbes (Uzès): 160
Place aux Huiles (Marseille): 258, 262
Place Crillon (Avignon): 118, 128
Place d’Albertas (Aix): 286–287
Place de la Mirande (Avignon): 123
Place de la Poste (Roussillon): 222–224
Place de la République (Arles): 67
Place de la Tourette (Marseille): 257–258
Place de l’Horloge (Avignon): 117–118
Place de l’Hôtel de Ville (Aix): 287–288
Place de République (St-Rémy): 98
Place des Châtaignes (Avignon): 118, 124, 134–135
Place des Deux Garçons (Villefranche): 371
Place des Lices (St-Tropez): 436, 439
Place des Martyrs de la Résistance (Antibes): 412
Place des Moulins (Marseille): 255
Place des Quatre Dauphins (Aix): 285
Place des Trois Ormeaux (Aix): 292
Place du Centenaire (Eze-le-Village): 388
Place du Forum (Arles): 57, 71–73; eating, 84–85
Place du Marché (Marseille): 252
Place du Marché (Nîmes): 146–147, 153
Place du Palais (Avignon): 118–119
Place du Palais (Monaco): 401–402
Place du Portail (Châteauneuf): 173
Place Lamartine (Arles): 61, 78
Place Masséna (Nice): 308, 324–326, 347; eating, 357, 359
Place Montfort (Vaison-la-Romaine): 174, 180
Place Nationale (Antibes): 412, 416
Place Paul Doumier (Arles): 74, 86
Place Pie (Avignon): 118, 135–136
Place Richelme (Aix): 287
Place Rossetti (Nice): 330
Plage d’Arles: 105
Plage de la Garoupe: 425
Plage de la Gravette (Antibes): 417, 424
Plage de la Paloma (Cap Ferrat): 383, 384
Plage de Passable (Cap Ferrat): 382, 385
Plage de Piemanço: 105
Plage du Bestouan (Cassis): 274
Pointe Rouge: 260
Pont Daladier (Avignon): 115–116
Pont d’Arc: 201
Pont de l’Artuby: 460
Pont du Gard: 154–159; the aqueduct, 154, 157–159; with children, 469; map, 155; orientation, 155–156; transportation, 154–155
Pont du Gard Museum: 156–157
Pont-du-Loup: 455–456
Pont Julien: 229–230
Pont St. Bénezet (Avignon): 118, 121–122
Popes Palace (Avignon): 118, 122–123
Population: 478
Port Grimaud: 439–440
Post offices: 529; Monaco, 401, 404
Prince’s Palace (Monaco): 402–403
Promenade des Anglais (Nice): 308, 315, 317, 320–323, 330–331; eating, 359–360; map, 318–319; sleeping, 350–351; walking tour, 317–323
Promenade du Paillon (Nice): 326, 347
Promenades en Mer (Villefranche): 372
Pronunciation guide: 562–563
Provence: 34–294; about, 5–6, 9–10; best two-week trips, 20–21, 23; cuisine, 44–46; helpful hints, 37; home base in, 35–36; map, 35; planning tips, 36–37; Roman history, 41–44; top destinations, 12–15; top 10 Provençal towns and villages, 39; tours, 38–41; transportation, 37–38. See also specific destinations
Puymin: 177
Puyricard Chocolate (Arles): 70
Quai des Etats-Unis (Nice): 322
Quai des Milliardaires (Antibes): 418
Quai Louis Pasteur (Vaison): 179
Quarries of Light (Les Baux): 95
Rabanel, Jean-Luc: 84
Rail passes: 27, 531–533, 534, 538, 553
Rasteau: 49
Renoir (Pierre-Auguste) Museum (Cagnes-sur-Mer): 426
Rental properties: 504–508
Resources from Rick Steves: 553–554
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Rhône River: 54, 62–63, 105, 115, 121–122; cruises, 115
Rick Steves resources: 553–554
Riez: 462
Riviera: 296–463; about, 9–10; art scene, 305–306; best two-week trip, 20–21, 23; cuisine, 306–307; helpful hints, 298–299; home base in, 297–298; inland, 441–463; maps, 297, 301, 367, 442; planning tips, 298, 365, 411; top art sights, 305; top destinations, 16; tours, 304–305; transportation, 299–304, 441–442; wines, 307. See also specific destinations
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 41–44, 477; Aix-en-Provence, 282; Arles, 57, 62, 64–65, 66–67, 71–72, 74–78; Avignon, 118; Barbegal Aqueduct, 96; day in the life of citizen, 76–77; La Trophée des Alpes, 390–392; Nîmes, 144–152; Orange, 164, 166–170; Pont du Gard, 154, 157–159; Pont Julien, 229–230; Provence, 41–44; top 10 sights, 42; St-Rémy, 97, 101–102; Vaison-la-Romaine, 177–180
Roman World Museum (Nîmes): 144–145
Roma (Gypsies) of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer: 108
Room and board: See Eating; Sleeping
Rosary Chapel (Vence): 446–447, 453
Roussillon: 36, 39, 216–224; eating, 222–224; map, 217; market, 206; sights/activities, 218–221; sleeping, 221–222; tourist information, 216–217; walking tour, 218–220
Roussillon church: 218
Route des Crêtes: 272–273
Rue Biscarra (Nice): 357
Rue d’Antibes (Cannes): 434
Rue de la Calade (Arles): 67
Rue de la Calade (Les Baux): 94
Rue de la Cavalerie (Arles): 63
Rue de la Poissonnerie (Nice): 328–329
Rue de la République (Arles): 69–70
Rue de la République (Avignon): 110, 118
Rue de Porte de Laure (Arles): 66
Rue des Fourbisseurs (Avignon): 124
Rue des Teinturiers (Avignon): 125–126, 133–134
Rue Droite (Nice): 329–330
Rue du Docteur Fanton (Arles): 71, 85; eating, 85–86
Rue du Vieux Sextier (Avignon): 124, 125
Rue Emile de Loth (Monaco): 401
Rue Gazan (Grasse): 452
Rue Obscure (Nice): 371
Rue Président Wilson (Arles): 70
Rue St. François de Paule (Nice): 326–327
Rue Saint-Saëns (Marseille): 262
Russian Cathedral (Nice): 315, 344–345
Rustrel: 236
RV rentals: 543
Sade, Marquis de, Donatien Alphonse François: 231
Saignon: 236–237
St. Bénezet Bridge (Avignon): 118, 121–122
Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes, market: 163
Ste-Jalles: 201
Ste-Marguerite Island: 431, 435
Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer: 107–108
St. Hilaire Abbey: 231
St-Jacques Church (Nice): 329
St. Jean-Cap-Ferrat: 383–384; sleeping, 385
St-Jeannet: 454; sleeping, 447–448
St. Laurent Church (Marseille): 258
St. Marcellin-lès-Vaison: 181
St. Michael’s Church (Menton): 410
St. Michael’s Church (Villefranche): 369, 371
St. Michel Church (Roussillon): 218
St. Pantaléon: 227
St-Paul-de-Vence: 442–445, 453
St. Paul Monastery and Hospital (St-Rémy): 73, 99–101
St. Pierre Chapel (Villefranche): 370–371
St. Pierre Church (Avignon): 124
St-Rémy-de-Provence: 36, 97–104; eating, 103–104; maps, 100, 104; sights, 99–102; sleeping, 102; tourist information, 98; transportation, 98
St. Réparate Cathedral (Nice): 330
St-Saturnin-lès-Apt: 234–235; market, 206, 234; sleeping and eating, 222, 234–235
Saint-Sauveur Cathedral (Aix): 288–289
St-Tropez: 436–440; map, 438–439
St. Trophime Church (Arles): 57, 67–69
St. Trophime Cloisters (Arles): 69
St. Vincent Church (Les Baux): 94
Santons: 326–327, 472; Museum (Les Baux), 95
Sarah, Saint: 108
Sartre, Jean-Paul: 437
Sault: 200; market, 163, 200, 206
Savannah College of Art and Design: 231
Seasons: 19–22
Sentier du Littoral: 438–440
Sentier Touristique Piétonnier de Tirepoil: 424–425
Shopping: 471–476; budgeting, 25; with children, 468; hours, 489; key phrases, 475; VAT refunds, 494; what to buy, 471–472. See also Fashion; Markets
Sightseeing: best two-week trips, 20–21, 23; budgeting, 25, 26; with children, 466–468; general tips, 495–497; navigation tools, 495; top destinations, 11–16; top kid-friendly sights, 469–470. See also specific sights and destinations
SIM cards: 528
Site-Mémorial du Camp des Milles (Aix): 289–290
Sleep code: 498
Sleeping: 497–509; budgeting, 25; with children, 464; glossary of terms, 500; money-saving tips, 25–26, 498–499; online reviews, 506–507; reservations, 27, 504–505; types of accommodations, 499–508. See also specific destinations
Smartphones: 28, 525–528; with children, 468–469. See also Apps
Sorgue River: 125–126, 207, 210–211, 212–213; canoeing, 213
Special events: 555–556. See also specific events
Sports: See Boules; Bullfights; Soccer
Spring of Nemo (Nîmes): 149–150
Stamps, in Monaco: 396, 401, 404
Starry Night (Van Gogh): 62
Strauss, Levi: 140
Suzette: 193–194
Swimming: 470. See also Beaches
Synagogue (Avignon): 124–125
Taxes: VAT refunds, 494
Taxis: 540; tipping, 493. See also specific destinations
Tea: 523–524
Telephones: 525–528; with children, 468–469
Temperatures, average monthly: 560
Temple of Diana (Nîmes): 150–151
TGV: See Train travel
Theater (théâtre antique): Arles, 66–67; Orange, 166–170
Theft alerts: 29, 31, 247, 312, 488, 492–493
Thermes de Constantin (Arles): 74
Time zones: 488–489
Tollbooths: 550
Tour du Portalet (St-Tropez): 437–438
Tour guides: See specific destinations
Tourist information: 487–488. See also specific destinations
Tourist trains: Aix-en-Provence, 281; Avignon, 116; Cassis, 268; Marseille, 248; Monaco, 401; Nice, 315, 346; Nîmes, 144; Vaison-la-Romaine, 176
Tour Philippe-le-Bel (Villeneuve): 118, 127
Tours: of Provence, 38–41; Rick Steves, 554; of the Riviera, 304–305. See also specific destinations
Tower of Philip the Fair (Villeneuve): 118, 127
Toy and Doll Museum (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 212
Train travel: 27, 531–539; baggage check, 537; best two-week trip, 23; coping with strikes, 536; general tips, 537–538; glossary of terms, 537; Luberon, 206; maps, 532, 533; Nice, 309, 360; Provence, 37; reservations, 535–537, 538; Riviera, 302–303, 361–362; schedules, 531; terms and abbreviations, 530; tickets, 533, 535, 538. See also Tourist trains; specific destinations
Transportation: 529–553; budgeting, 25; maps, 532, 533; before you go preparation, 27. See also specific destinations
Travel insurance: 27
Travel tips: 488–489
Trinquetaille Bridge (Arles): 74
Trip costs: 25
Trophée des Alpes: 390–392
TV shows, recommended: 558
Upper Town (Vaison-la-Romaine): 174, 180, 182, 183–184
Uzès Medieval Garden: 160
Vacqueyras: 196; market, 163, 196
Vaison-la-Romaine: 36, 39, 174–185; eating, 183–185; helpful hints, 175–176; map, 175; sights/activities, 177–181; sleeping, 182–183; tourist information, 174; transportation, 174–175, 185
Vallauris: 421
Vallon-Pont-d’Arc: 201–202
Valréas: 198
Van Gogh, Vincent: 96, 126, 285; in Arles, 60–63, 70–73; Fondation Van Gogh, 57, 71; in St-Rémy, 97, 99–101
VAT refunds: 494
Vegetarians: 515
Velleron: 213
Vence: 445–449, 453, 454; eating, 448–449; map, 448–449; sights/activities, 446–447; sleeping, 447–448; tourist information, 445
Vercingétorix: 482
Verdon Gorge: See Grand Canyon du Verdon
Vieux Nice: 308, 315, 323–330; eating, 355–357; maps, 324–325, 352–353, 358; nightlife, 347; sleeping, 347, 351, 354; walking tour, 323–330
Vieux Port (Marseille): 244, 249, 252, 253–255, 259; eating, 261–262; map, 250–251; sleeping, 260–261
Villa Dartis (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 212
Villa Eilenroc (Antibes): 425
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (Cap Ferrat): 378, 393
Village des Bories: 227
Villa Kérylos: 386
Villa Masséna (Nice): 319–320
Villa Méditerranée (Marseille): 257
Villedieu: 181, 183; eating, 184
Villefranche-sur-Mer: 366–376, 393; eating, 374–375; helpful hints, 368; as home base, 298; maps, 367, 370–371; sights/activities, 368–373; sleeping, 373; tourist information, 366–367; transportation, 367, 368, 375–376; walking tour, 368–372
Villefranche-sur-Mer Citadel: 371–372
Villefranche-sur-Mer Harbor: 369
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: 116, 127
Vineyards: See Wine and vineyards
Vinsobres: 198
Visitor information: 487–488. See also specific destinations
Walking tours, self-guided: Aix-en-Provence, 283–289; Antibes, 417–419; Arles, 60–73; Avignon, 117–126; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 210–211; Marseille, 249–259; Monaco, 401–404; Nice, 316–330; Nîmes, 144–152; Roussillon, 218–220; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 368–372
Wi-Fi: 28, 525–528; with children, 468–469. See also specific destinations
Wine and vineyards: 524; Aix-en-Provence, 276; Cassis, 52–53, 269, 272–273; Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 171–173; Côtes du Rhône, 48–49, 171–173, 180, 186–199; guided tours, 38–40; key terms, 47–48, 524; Phoenicians, wine-growing almanac, 195; Provence, 46–53; guided tours, 38–40; Riviera, 307; Roussillon, 220–221; tasting tips, 50–51; Uzès, 160
Wine Museum (Châteauneuf): 172
Wine Safari: 38–39
Wine Uncovered: 40
World War I: 120, 180, 218, 452
World War II: 62, 120, 257, 269, 289–290, 372, 437–438
“Yellow House” (Arles): 61–62
Yves Brayer Museum (Les Baux): 94