Plan Your Trip
Safaris
Whether you're watching the eternal dance of predator and prey, mingling with a mighty herd of elephants or sleeping under luxury canvas while a lion roars the savannah's unrest, an East African safari is the experience of a lifetime.
Best for Primates
Mahale Mountains National Park (Tanzania)
Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda)
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (Uganda)
Best for Elephants
Tarangire National Park (Tanzania)
Amboseli National Park (Kenya)
Samburu National Reserve (Kenya)
Tsavo East National Park (Kenya)
Best for Rhinos
Lake Nakuru National Park (Kenya)
Best for Birdwatching
Kakamega Forest Reserve (Kenya)
Rubondo Island National Park (Tanzania)
Selous Game Reserve (Tanzania)
Murchison Falls National Park (Uganda)
Semuliki National Park (Uganda)
Best Times to Go
Dry season (July through September) for spotting the Big Five
Rainy season (March through May) for birdwatching
Dry and shoulder seasons (June to January) for chimpanzee tracking
Planning Your Safari
You can't spend too much time planning your safari. Partly this involves deciding where to go – which landscapes appeal? Which species are on your must-see list? But another big part of your planning is choosing how to travel. Self-drive or an organised safari package? Overland truck or no-expenses-spared luxury? The choice is yours and we'll give you the tools to help you make the all-important decisions.
Choosing an Operator
A good operator is the single most important variable for your safari, and it’s worth spending time thoroughly researching those you’re considering. Competition among safari companies is fierce and standards of professionalism vary greatly. Some companies use glorified matatu or dalla-dalla (minibus or pick-up truck) drivers as guides, offer sub-standard food and poorly maintained vehicles, or underpay and poorly treat their staff, while others are high-quality companies with excellent track records. Following are some things to keep in mind when looking for an operator:
ADo some legwork before coming to East Africa. Check out traveller forums and the 'User Reviews' section of the Safari Bookings website (www.safaribookings.com). Get personal recommendations, and once in the region, talk with as many people as you can who have recently returned from a safari or trek with the company you’re considering.
ABe sceptical of price quotes that sound too good to be true, and don’t rush into any deals, no matter how good they sound.
ADon’t fall for it if a tout tries to convince you that a safari or trek is leaving ‘tomorrow’ and that you can be the final person in the group. Take the time to shop around at reliable outfits to get a feel for what’s on offer. If others have supposedly registered, ask to speak with them.
ADon’t give money to anyone who doesn’t work out of an office, and don’t arrange any safari deals at the bus stand or with touts who follow you to your hotel room. Also be wary of sham operators trading under the same names as companies listed in guidebooks. Don’t let business cards fool you either; they’re easy to print up and are no proof of legitimacy.
AGo with a company that has its own vehicles and equipment. If you have any doubts, don’t pay a deposit until you’ve seen the vehicle (and tyres) that you’ll be using. Also be aware that it’s not unknown for an operator to show you one vehicle, but then on the actual departure day, arrive in an inferior one.
AEspecially at the budget level, there’s often client swapping between companies whose vehicles are full and those that aren’t. You could easily find yourself on safari with a company that isn’t the one you booked with; reputable companies will inform you if they’re going to do this. Although getting swapped into another company’s safari isn’t necessarily a bad thing, be sure that the safari you booked and paid for is what you get.
AUnless you speak the local language, be sure your driver and/or guide can speak your language.
AGo through the itinerary in detail, confirming in writing what's expected and planned for each stage of the trip. Be sure that the number of wildlife drives per day and all other specifics appear in the written contract, as well as the starting and ending dates and approximate times.
ANormally, major problems such as complete vehicle breakdown are compensated for by adding additional time onto your safari. If this isn’t possible, reliable operators may compensate you for a portion of time lost. However, don’t expect a refund for ‘minor’ problems such as punctured tyres or lesser breakdowns. Park fees are non-refundable.
WHAT TO BRING
ABinoculars
AGood-quality sleeping bag (for camping safaris)
AMosquito repellent
AMosquito net (many lodges and tented camps have nets, but you may need one for budget guesthouses)
ARain gear and waterproofs for high-altitude trekking and/or wet-season camping safaris
ASunglasses
ACamera and extra batteries, memory and zoom capacity
AExtra contact lens solution and your prescription glasses (the dust can be irritating)
AToilet paper, snacks and extra water for budget safaris
AFor walking safaris, bring lightweight, long-sleeved shirts and trousers in subdued colours, a head covering, and sturdy, comfortable shoes
Safari Style
While price can be a major determining factor in safari planning, there are other considerations that are just as important:
Ambience Will you be staying in or near the park? (If you stay well outside the park, you’ll miss the good early morning and evening wildlife-viewing hours.) Are the surroundings atmospheric? Will you be in a large lodge or an intimate private camp?
Equipment Mediocre vehicles and equipment can significantly detract from the overall experience. In remote areas, lack of quality equipment or vehicles and appropriate back-up arrangements can be a safety risk.
Access & activities If you don’t relish the idea of spending hours on bumpy roads, consider parks and lodges where you can fly in. To get out of the vehicle and into the bush, target areas offering walking and boat safaris.
Guides A good driver/guide can make or break your safari. With operators trying to cut corners, chances are that staff are unfairly paid, and are not likely to be knowledgeable or motivated.
Community commitment Look for operators that do more than just give lip-service to ecotourism principles, and that have a genuine, long-standing commitment to the communities where they work. In addition to being more culturally responsible, they’ll also be able to give you a more authentic and enjoyable experience.
Setting the agenda Some drivers feel that they have to whisk you from one good ‘sighting’ to the next. If you prefer to stay in one strategic place for a while to experience the environment and see what comes by, discuss this with your driver. Going off in wild, hurried pursuit of the ‘Big Five’ means you’ll miss the more subtle aspects of your surroundings.
Extracurriculars In some areas, it’s common for drivers to stop at souvenir shops en route; most shops pay drivers commissions to bring clients, which means you may find yourself spending more time souvenir shopping than you’d bargained for. If you’re not interested, discuss this with your driver at the outset, ideally while still at the operator’s office.
Less is more If you’ll be teaming up with others to make a group, find out how many people will be in your vehicle, and try to meet your travelling companions before setting off.
Special interests If birdwatching or other special interests are important, arrange a private safari with a specialised operator.
KATO & TATO
The Kenyan Association of Tour Operators (KATO; www.katokenya.org) and the Tanzanian Association of Tour Operators (TATO; 
%027-250 4188; www.tatotz.org) serve as local regulatory bodies. Reputable safari companies in Kenya and Tanzania will be registered members. While they’re not always the most powerful of entities, going on safari with one of their members (both have member lists on their websites) will at least give you some recourse to appeal in case of conflict or problems. They’re also good sources of information on whether a company is reputable or not, and it’s well worth checking in with them before finalising your plans.
Uganda’s equivalent, the Association of Uganda Tour Operators (AUTO; www.auto.or.ug), has no policing power, but does screen prospective new members to confirm they are at least competent.
Other good sources of information on tour operators include:
ASafari Bookings (www.safaribookings.com)
ATanzania Tourist Board Tourist Information Centre
AUganda Tourist Board (www.visituganda.com)
AKenya Professional Safari Guides Association (www.safariguides.org)
AEcotourism Society of Kenya (ESOK; %020-2574059, 0726366080; www.ecotourismkenya.org)
ARwanda Tourism (www.rwandatourism.com)
Booking
Booking (and paying for) a safari before arriving in East Africa is strongly recommended if you’ll be travelling in popular areas during peak season or if your schedule is tight or inflexible. Only prebook with operators that you have thoroughly checked out, and take particular care if prebooking at the budget end of the spectrum. Confirm that the operator you’re considering is registered with the relevant national regulatory body and get as much feedback as possible from other travellers.
If cutting costs and maintaining flexibility are priorities, then it can work out better to book your safari once you are in East Africa. Allow at least a day to shop around, don’t rush into any deals, and steer clear of any attempts at intimidation by touts or dodgy operators to get you to pay immediately or risk losing your place in a departing vehicle.
Costs
ACamping safaris cater to shoestring travellers and those who are prepared to put up with a little discomfort and who don’t mind helping to pitch the tents and set up camp. Safaris based in lodges or tented camps cost more, with the price usually directly proportional to the quality of the accommodation and staff.
AMost safari quotes include park entrance fees, accommodation and transport costs to/from the park and within the park, but confirm before paying. Drinks (alcoholic or not) are generally excluded, although many operators provide one bottle of water daily. Budget camping safari prices usually exclude sleeping bag rental (US$5 per day to US$20 per trip). For group safaris, find out how many people will be sharing the vehicle with you (the prices we quote are based on a group size of four), and how many people per tent or room.
AIf accommodation-only prices apply, you’ll need to pay extra to actually go out looking for wildlife, either on wildlife drives, boat safaris or walks. There is usually the opportunity for two of these ‘activities’ per day (each around two to three hours). Costs range from about US$25 per person for a walk, up to US$200 or more per day per vehicle for wildlife drives.
AThere isn’t necessarily a relationship between the price paid and the likelihood of the local community benefiting from your visit. Find out as much as you can about an operators’ social and cultural commitment before booking.
TIPPING
Assuming service has been satisfactory, tipping is an important part of the East African safari experience (especially to the drivers, guides, cooks and others whose livelihoods depend on tips), and it will always be in addition to the overall safari price quoted by the operator. Many operators have tipping guidelines. Depending on where you are, for camping safaris this averages from about US$10 to US$15 per day per group for the driver/guide/cook, more for upscale safaris, large groups or an especially good job.
Another way to calculate things is to give an additional day’s wage for every five days worked, with a similar proportion for a shorter trip, and a higher than average tip for exceptional service. Wages in East Africa are low, and it’s never a mistake to err on the side of generosity when tipping those who have worked to make your safari experience memorable. Whenever possible, give your tips directly to the staff you want to thank, although many safari camps and lodges keep a box for tips that are later shared among all staff.
Budget
At the budget end, reliability is a major factor, as there’s often only a fine line between operators running no-frills but good-value safaris, and those that are either dishonest or have cut things so close that problems are bound to arise.
Most budget safaris are camping safaris. To minimise costs, you’ll camp or stay in basic guesthouses, travel in relatively large groups and have no-frills meals. In some areas the camping grounds may be outside park boundaries to save on park entry fees and high park camping fees; however, this means you’ll lose time during prime morning and evening wildlife viewing hours shuttling to and from the park. Most budget safaris also place daily kilometre limits on the vehicles, meaning your driver may be unwilling or unable to follow certain lengthier routes.
In Tanzania, expect to pay US$150 to US$200 per person per day for a budget safari with a registered operator. The cost in Kenya will be slightly lower. Genuine budget camping safaris are few and far between in Uganda, although a few companies offer reasonably priced three-day trips to Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth National Parks for about US$70 to US$100 per person per day, camping or sleeping in dorms.
To save money, bring drinks with you, especially bottled water, as it’s expensive to buy in and near the parks. Snacks, extra food and toilet paper are other worthwhile items. During the low season, it’s often possible to find lodge safaris for close to the price of a camping safari.
Midrange
Most midrange safaris use lodges, where you can expect to have a comfortable room and to eat in a restaurant. In general, you can expect reliability and reasonably good value in this category. A disadvantage is that the safaris may have a packaged-tour atmosphere, although this can be minimised by carefully selecting a safari company and accommodation, and giving attention to who and how many other people you travel with. Expect to pay from about US$200 to US$300 per person per day in Kenya and Tanzania for a midrange lodge safari. During low season, always ask about special deals. In Uganda, plan on anywhere from US$100 to US$150 per person per day.
Top End
Private lodges, luxury tented camps and sometimes private fly camps are used in top-end safaris, all with the aim of providing guests with as authentic and personal a bush experience as possible while not foregoing comfort. For the price you pay (from US$250 or US$300 up to US$800 or more per person per day), expect a full range of amenities, as well as top-quality guiding, a high level of personalised attention and an intimate atmosphere.
In Kenya, private or community-run conservancies are increasingly a part of the mix. Most of these conservancies restrict entry onto the conservancy to those who stay in what is usually a luxury lodge, ensuring a more intimate safari experience. Accommodation prices sometimes (but don't always) include a fee that goes towards the conservancy's conservation and community projects. Most of the conservancies are concentrated in Laikipia, northern Kenya and around the Masai Mara, with just two in Tanzania (close to Lake Manyara and in West Kilimanjaro).
When to Go
Climate Considerations
Getting around is easier in the dry season (July to October), and in many parks, reserves and conservancies this is when animals are easier to find around waterholes and rivers. Foliage is also less dense, making wildlife easier to spot. However, as the dry season corresponds in part with the high-travel season, lodges and camps in some areas get crowded and accommodation prices are at a premium.
June is also good (and sometimes considered to be high season), while the short rains in late October and November rarely interrupt travel plans. Unless these rains have been particularly heavy, the recommended safari season extends into February.
As a general rule (unless you're a birdwatcher) avoid March to May, when the region's long rains bucket down, wildlife disperses and many tracks become impassable.
Wildebeest Migration
When it comes to visiting Kenya's Masai Mara or Tanzania's Serengeti to see the wildebeest migration, deciding when to go and where always involves some element of risk. What follows is a general overview of what usually happens, but it's a guide only and exceptions are common.
January to March During the rains, the wildebeest are widely scattered over the southern and southwestern section of the Serengeti and the western side of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
April Most streams dry out quickly when the rains cease, nudging the wildebeest to concentrate on the few remaining green areas, and to form thousands-strong herds that begin to migrate northwest in search of food.
May to early July In early May, the herds cross northwest towards the Western Corridor. The crossing of the crocodile-filled Grumeti River usually takes place between late May and early July, and lasts only about a week.
Mid-July to August By the second half of July, the herds are moving north and northwest into the northern Serengeti and Kenya's Masai Mara. As part of this northwards push, they make an even more incredible river crossing of the Mara River.
September to October In early September, the last stragglers leave the Serengeti and most will remain in the Masai Mara throughout October.
November to December The herds usually begin moving south again in November in anticipation of the rains, crossing down through the heart of the Serengeti and to the south in December.
FIELD GUIDES
AThe Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals by Jonathan Kingdon
AA Field Guide to the Carnivores of the World by Luke Hunter
AThe Behaviour Guide to African Mammals by Richard Despard Estes
AField Guide to the Birds of East Africa by Terry Stevenson and John Fanshawe
ABirds of Kenya and Northern Tanzania by Dale Zimmerman, Donald Turner and David Pearson
ALonely Planet’s Watching Wildlife East Africa Not a field guide, but full of tips on spotting wildlife, maps of East Africa’s parks and background information on animal behaviour and ecology.
Safari Itineraries
Wherever you plan to take your safari, don’t be tempted to try to fit too much into the itinerary. Distances in East Africa are long, and moving too quickly from park to park is likely to leave you tired and unsatisfied.
Tanzania
Northern Circuit
Half-Week
AAny of the northern parks alone
ANgorongoro Crater together with Lake Manyara or Tarangire National Parks
One Week to 10 Days
ALake Manyara or Tarangire National Parks plus Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti
ASerengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Natron
ASerengeti and Rubondo Island National Parks
AOne or two of the northern parks plus cultural tourism programs around Arusha or hiking in the Usambara Mountains
Southern Circuit
Half-Week
AAny one of the following: Mikumi, Saadani or Ruaha National Parks or Selous Game Reserve
One Week
ASelous Game Reserve and Ruaha National Park
ARuaha and Katavi National Parks
ASelous Game Reserve and Mafia or Zanzibar Island
AMahale Mountains National Park plus Lake Tanganyika
AKatavi National Park and Lake Tanganyika
10 Days
ARuaha, Katavi and Mahale Mountains National Parks
AKaavi and Mahale Mountains National Parks plus Lake Tanganyika
Western Parks
Half-Week
AKatavi National Park
AGombe Stream National Park
ARubondo Island National Park
One Week
AMahale Mountains and Katavi National Parks
Kenya
Half-Week
AMasai Mara National Reserve
ALake Nakuru National Park
AAmboseli National Park
ATsavo West or Tsavo East National Parks
One Week
AMasai Mara National Reserve and Amboseli National Park or Lakes Nakuru and Baringo
ALaikipia Conservancies and Samburu National Reserve
ASamburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserves
10 Days
AMasai Mara, Amboseli and Tsavo
ALaikipia and Masai Mara, Amboseli or Tsavo
ARift Valley lakes plus Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserves
ASamburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserves plus Marsabit National Park and Lake Turkana
AMeru National Park or Shaba National Reserve plus Marsabit and Lake Turkana
Uganda
Most safaris in Uganda last one week to 10 days and focus on the southwest, usually combining a gorilla visit in Uganda or neighbouring Rwanda with wildlife watching in Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks and chimp visits in Kibale National Park.
Rwanda
It’s easy to visit the highlight parks – Volcanoes National Park, Nyungwe Forest National Park and Akagera National Park – within one week to 10 days. Most organised safari packages are short (less than a week), and concentrate on trips to Volcanoes National Park.
TRACKING CHIMPANZEES
After hanging out with the mountain gorillas many people carry on up the evolutionary tree to spend a day tracking our even closer relatives, chimpanzees. There are four main national parks in which to see chimps and, as with the gorillas, the experience in each is different.
MAHALE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK (TANZANIA)
With steep forested mountains falling sharply down to beaches of feather-soft white sands and the turquoise waters of Lake Tanganyika, Mahale Mountains is the park with the most spectacular setting. Lots of chimps here are very used to humans; many will happily walk right up to you. As such, many rate Mahale as the best park to see chimps. However, getting to Mahale can be time consuming and expensive. You’re also limited to one hour a day with the chimps and for the rest of the day there’s actually not much else to do. Face masks must be worn when with the chimps.
GOMBE STREAM NATIONAL PARK (TANZANIA)
Located on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, access to Gombe Stream is relatively easy and the park is good value. The chimps here have been studied for decades (this is where Jane Goodall worked) and couldn’t be more used to people. Chimp encounters are limited to an hour a day and there’s not much else to do once your time with the chimps is up. Face masks must be worn.
NYUNGWE FOREST NATIONAL PARK (RWANDA)
One of the most important forest systems in East Africa, Nyungwe is home to a large number of chimps, but of all the big chimpanzee parks, the apes here are the least habituated and most skittish around people. Access to the park is cheap and easy and there are lots of other things to do when your hour with the chimps is up.
KIBALE NATIONAL PARK (UGANDA)
Access to this important forest is cheap and easy and there’s an array of brilliant value accommodation for all budgets. The chimps here are very well habituated and up-close encounters are pretty much guaranteed. The one-hour chimp permit here is more expensive than any of the other parks but you can pay a little extra and join a full day ‘chimp experience’. When not with the chimps there are lots of other wildlife and cultural activities available. Face masks not required.
Types of Safari
Organised Vehicle Safaris
Four to six days on an organised vehicle safari is often ideal. At least one full day will normally be taken up with travel, and after six days you may well feel like a rest. If you pack too much distance or too many parks into a short period, you’ll likely feel as if you’ve spent your whole time in transit. If you can, build in rest days spent at camp or on walking safaris and other non-vehicle-based activities.
Minivans are the most common safari transport throughout Kenya and northern Tanzania, but if you have a choice, go for a good 4WD instead – preferably one with a pop-up style roof (versus a simple hatch that flips open or comes off), as it affords some shade. Minivans accommodate too many people for a good experience, the rooftop opening is usually only large enough for a few passengers to use at once, and at least some passengers will get stuck in middle seats with poor views.
Whatever the vehicle, avoid crowding. Most price quotes are based on groups of three to four passengers, which is about the maximum number of people most vehicles can hold comfortably.
Other Safaris
Walking, Hiking & Cycling Safaris
At many national parks (and at almost all of the private and community-run conservancies), you can arrange walks of two to three hours in the early morning or late afternoon, with the focus on watching animals rather than covering distance. Following the walk, you’ll return to the main camp or lodge, or to a fly camp.
Multi-day or point-to-point walks are available in some areas, as are combination walking-hiking-cycling itineraries with side trips by vehicle into the parks to see wildlife. Popular areas in Kenya include Mt Kenya National Park and Mt Elgon National Park for trekking and hiking and Hell’s Gate National Park for cycling. Walking (and sometimes horse-riding) safaris are staples of the Laikipia, northern Kenya and Mara conservancies. Lion-tracking is also possible in Ol Pejeta Conservancy.
In Tanzania, places where you can walk in big game areas include Selous Game Reserve and Ruaha, Mikumi, Katavi, Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Serengeti and Arusha National Parks. There are also several parks – including Kilimanjaro, Mahale Mountains and Gombe Stream National Parks – that can only be explored on foot. Short walks are easily arranged in Rubondo Island National Park. Multi-day walks are possible in the Crater Highlands, Serengeti National Park and Selous Game Reserve, and cycling is possible in the area around Lake Manyara National Park.
In Uganda, opportunities include everything from tracking gorillas and chimpanzees to birdwatching walks in Bwindi Impenetrable and Kibale National Parks, to wildlife walks in Queen Elizabeth, Kidepo Valley and Lake Mburo National Parks, to climbing Mt Elgon or trekking in the Rwenzoris.
Boat & Canoe Safaris
Boat safaris are an excellent way to experience the East African wilderness and offer a welcome break from dusty, bumpy roads. Good destinations include:
AAlong the Rufiji River in Tanzania’s Selous Game Reserve, with two- to three-hour boat safaris.
AUganda's Queen Elizabeth National Park (Click here).
ALaunch trip up the Victoria Nile to the base of Murchison Falls (Click here).
Camel Safaris
Most camel safaris take place in northern Kenya’s Samburu and Turkana tribal areas, with Maralal a logical base. Although you may see wildlife along the way, the main attractions are the journey itself, and the chance to immerse yourself in nomadic life and mingle with the indigenous people. You can either ride the camels or walk alongside them. Most travelling is done in the cooler parts of the day. Most operators provide camping equipment or offer it for rental. There are also camel safaris in Maasai areas near Arusha National Park.
Balloon Safaris
The places for balloon safaris are Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve and Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. Everything depends on wind and weather conditions; spotting animals can’t be guaranteed and flight time is generally limited to a maximum of one hour. But the captains try to stay between 500m and 1000m above ground, which means that if animals are there you’ll be able to see them. Most balloon safaris are followed by a champagne breakfast in the bush.
Do-It-Yourself Safaris
It’s possible to visit most of East Africa’s parks with your own vehicle, without going through a safari operator. Some travellers rave about the experience and the freedom it gives you. For others, unless you’re experienced at bush driving, the modest cost savings may be offset by having someone else handle the logistics; if you're renting, hiring a local driver rarely costs a whole lot more.
For most areas, you’ll need a 4WD. In addition to park admission fees, there are daily vehicle fees and, in some areas, a mandatory guide fee. You may need to carry extra petrol, as it’s not available in all parks, as well as spare tires. Carrying a tent is also recommended.