Multi-tools come in many configurations; choose one that matches your bike’s small parts, and you could be saved from walking home.
Proper repair means having the right tools for the job. And not every job requires every tool. Here, we help you set up toolkits for various scenarios, from home to trail, and also give you a basic schedule for preventive maintenance. The rest is up to you!
Carry these with you when you ride, either in a bag under your seat or in a backpack.
• Spare tube (even if you use tubeless tires)
• Tube patch kit (contains patches, glue, and sandpaper; check the glue frequently, since it tends to dry out once opened)
• Tire boots (patches to repair cuts in the tire; a dollar bill or energy bar wrapper works in a pinch)
• Tire levers
• All-in-one mini tool, such as the Crank Brothers Multi 17 (a small tool that includes 2-, 2.5-, 3-, 4-, 5-, 6-, and 8-millimeter hex keys; a chain tool; a flat-blade screwdriver; a Phillips screwdriver; a T-25 Torx key; spoke wrenches; and 8- and 10-millimeter open wrenches). (See more on this page.)
• Mini pump or frame pump (for your type of valve) or CO2 cartridges and inflator
• Small length of wire (handy for making temporary “get home” repairs)
• Emergency money
• Cell phone
• Identification (written inside your helmet, too)
Multi-tools come in many configurations; choose one that matches your bike’s small parts, and you could be saved from walking home.
The “Good” assortment outlined here is enough for most basic home repairs and then some. The “Ultimate” assortment is for if (or when) you get really serious. If you’re new to maintenance, start small and add to your tool collection as you go. Buy high-quality tools as you need them, and eventually you’ll have most of the items on this list.
| GENERAL TOOLS | BICYCLE TOOLS |
| • Phillips screwdrivers (#1 and #2) | • Floor pump with gauge |
| • Flat-blade screwdrivers (7/32, 1/4, and 5/16 inch) | • Repair stand |
| • Standard pliers | • Tire levers |
| • Water pump pliers (e.g., Channellock) | • Pedal wrench |
| • Needle-nose pliers | • Cone wrenches (13 to 19 millimeters for adjusting wheel axle bearings) |
| • Small and medium locking pliers (e.g., Vise-Grip) | • Schrader valve core remover (to fix slow leaks in car-type valves) |
| • Diagonal cutter | • Cable cutter (to cut brake and shift cables without fraying) |
| • Hex keys (2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 millimeters) | • Cable stretcher (aka “fourth hand,” for adjusting brake cables) |
| • Torx keys (T-7, T-25, and T-40) | • Chain-tool/chain-rivet extractor (for removing, installing, and repairing chains) |
| • Metric combination wrench set (6 through 17 millimeters) | • Cassette lockring remover or freewheel remover that fits the cogset on your wheels |
| • Adjustable wrenches (8 and 12 inches) | • Chainwhip (for holding cassettes steady during lockring removal, or a pair to disassemble freewheels) |
| • 8-ounce ball-peen hammer | • Spoke wrench that fits your spoke nipples |
| • Plastic, rubber, or leather mallet | • Crankarm bolt wrench or 14-millimeter socket and ratchet handle |
| • Scissors | • Crankarm remover |
| • Tape measure (centimeters and inches) | • Chainring bolt spanner |
| • Hacksaw frame and blades (18 and 32 TPI, plus carbide blades for carbon fiber) | • Bottom bracket tool that fits your bottom bracket |
| • Utility knife | • Headset wrenches (if you have a threaded headset) |
| • Awl | • Suspension pump (if you have air-sprung shocks) |
| • Cold chisels (for cutting or carving metal) | |
| • Punches (for driving out or aligning things) | |
| • Outside calipers | |
| • Small magnet (useful for extracting ball bearings) | |
| • Rubber gloves | |
| • Safety glasses or goggles |
Includes all the tools in the Good Tool Assortment plus:
• Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics (the definitive source for component measurements)
• Stainless steel ruler (6 inches/15 centimeters)
• Sturdy bench vise
• Solvent tank (a safe place to clean parts and store solvent)
• Truing stand
• Vernier caliper (for checking component dimensions)
• Dishing gauge (for centering the rim over the axle when building or truing wheels)
• Taps (for repairing threads; 5 millimeters × 0.8, 6 millimeters × 1.0, 7 millimeters × 1.0, 8 millimeters × 1.0, and 10 millimeter × 1.0)
• Tap handle
• Spoke tensiometer (for measuring spoke tension)
• Dropout alignment tools (for repairing bent dropouts)
• Thread pitch gauge (for measuring threads)
• Headset installation tools (bearing cup press, crown race tools, etc.)
• Spoke ruler
• Derailleur hanger alignment tool (for repairing bent hangers)
• Tapered reamer (for enlarging holes by hand)
• Rear triangle alignment indicator bar (for checking frame alignment)
• Round, half-round, and flat files in medium and coarse (for machining metal parts by hand)
• Electric drill and drill bits
• Bondhus hex keys (hex keys with ball-shaped ends ideal for working in tight spaces; 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 millimeters)
• Inside caliper
• Torque wrench
• Grinder with wire wheel
• Hex key bits (to fit torque wrench; 4, 5, 6, and 8 millimeters)
• Air compressor with blower attachment (to simplify tire inflation and grip installation)
• Snap ring pliers
• Lockwire pliers and lockwire (for securing disc brake hardware and wiring mountain bike grips in place)
• Tubing cutter
• Hydraulic disc brake bleed kit
Park Tool and Pedro’s sell a variety of toolkits already assembled to meet the needs of mechanics who are jump-starting their tool collections. The kits range from basic starter kits to full-blown workbench-in-a-box options. Check them out at www.parktool.com and www.pedros.com.
• Check the tire pressure.
• Make sure the chain is properly lubricated. See more on this page.
• Make sure the brakes grab firmly. Make sure the wheels are centered in the frame and that the quick releases are firmly closed. See more on this page.
• Check that the brakes are properly aligned and the pads are in good condition. See more on this page.
• Check hydraulic brake lines for kinks or splits. See more on this page.
• Bounce the bike to detect rattles that might indicate loose or misadjusted parts.
• Check that you have your pump/inflator and your complete repair kit with you.
• Lubricate the springs and pivot points on clipless pedals. See more on this page.
• Brush foreign objects off the tread and check the overall condition of the tires.
• Wipe or hose down the bike if it’s very dirty. Be careful not to direct water at bearings or other sensitive components; bounce the bike to shake off the excess water, then store it in a warm, dry place.
• Dry off the saddle if it’s wet.
• If the chain got wet, wipe it down and apply some fresh chain lube. After a wet ride, remove the seatpost, turn the bike upside down, and let the seat tube drain. Apply fresh grease or anti-seize compound before reinstalling the post (unless you have a carbon fiber frame or seatpost, in which case you should use assembly compound—a paste formulated to work with carbon and composite materials). See more on this page.
• Check hydraulic brake lines for kinks or splits. See more on this page.
• Check the bearing adjustment on the front and rear hubs. See more on this page.
• Wipe down the entire bike with a wet rag.
• Check for cracks or signs of stress on the frame, rims, crankset, fork, handlebar, and stem.
• Hold the front wheel between your knees and try to turn the handlebar with one hand; if it moves easily, tighten the stem bolt(s).
• Give the chain, cogs, and chainrings a quick degreasing on the bike, and relubricate the chain. See more on this page.
• Lubricate the bushings of the idler and jockey pulleys on the rear derailleur. See more on this page.
• Lubricate the pivot points on the front and rear derailleurs. See more on this page and this page.
• Check the crank bolts and chainring bolts for tightness. See more on this page.
• Overhaul the hubs. See more on this page.
• Check that all the brake hardware is secure.
• Check the spoke tension and trueness of the wheels and adjust as needed. See more on this page.
• Check cables for kinks and fraying.
• Measure the chain and check the cogs and chainrings for excessive wear; replace if necessary. See more on this page.
• Check the condition of the brake pads; replace if excessively or unevenly worn. For rubber rim-brake pads, pick out debris with an awl and remove glazing by scuffing with a half-round file.
• Clean the rims with rubbing alcohol.
• Check accessory hardware (racks, bottle cages, etc.) for tightness.
• Check the condition of the glue on tubular (sew-up) tires.
• Clean and treat leather saddles with saddle soap or leather dressing.
• Check the headset for proper adjustment. See more on this page.
• Check the rear suspension pivot bolts for proper torque.
• Check the adjustment on pedal bearings. See more on this page.
• Check the bottom bracket for proper adjustment. See more on this page.
• Check the seat tube for rust on steel frames.
• Clean the cables and flush the cable housings with a light aerosol solvent.
• Check all the hardware on the bike.
• Overhaul the headset. See more on this page.
• Replace the cables and housings. See more on this page.
• Replace worn parts such as tires and brake pads.
• Replace grips or handlebar tape. See more on this page.
WATCH THIS FIX:
FIND A STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO OF A PRERIDE CHECK AT
| PART | LUBRICANT |
| • Ball bearings | • Medium-weight bike grease |
| • Bottom bracket spindle | • Medium-weight bike grease (do not lubricate square-taper spindles unless directed to by the crankarm manufacturer) |
| • Brake cable | • Aerosol solvent to flush housing; if desired, lubricate using a lightweight oil |
| • Brake pivot | • Medium-weight bike grease or Teflon-based oil |
| • Brake spring | • Medium-weight bike grease |
| • Chain | • Chain lubricant of your choice; there are lots out there for different conditions |
| • Derailleur pivots | • Teflon-based oil |
| • Internal gear hubs | • Lightweight machine oil with no particulate additives |
| • Seatpost (steel or aluminum frame and/or seatpost) | • Medium-weight bike grease |
| • Seatpost (carbon fiber frame with any material seatpost; carbon fiber seatpost with any material frame) | • Assembly compound (a suspension of microscopic plastic beads in a nonpetroleum grease that enhances grip between clamped parts without affecting the carbon or resin) |
| • Seatposts (titanium frame with steel, aluminum, or titanium seatpost; titanium seatpost with steel, aluminum, or titanium frame) | • Anti-seize compound |
| • Stem (quill type) | • Medium-weight bike grease; substitute anti-seize compound if any titanium component is involved |
| • Stem (threadless type) | • Nothing |
| • Threads | • White lithium grease, medium-weight bike grease, anti-seize compound, or threadlocking compound, depending on the application |