| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Z |
Aalto, Alvar: 370
Abbey Mansion: 317
Abélard, Peter: 389
Absinthe: 202, 206, 402, 409; museum, in Auvers, 644
Abstract art: 368–370
Abstract Expressionism: 373–374
Abstract Surrealism: 372
Académie des Beaux-Arts: 312
Accommodations: See Sleeping
Age of Bronze, The (Rodin): 255–256
Agoudas Hakehilos Synagogue: 355
Airbnb: 22, 438, 674–675, 676–677
Airfares (airlines): 21, 548, 711
Airports: 542–549; sleeping near, 436–438; VAT refunds, 666–667. See also specific airports
Airport vans (shuttle buses): 544, 546, 548, 549
À La Mère de Famille Confectionery: 230–231
Aldi: 232
Allée des Brouillards: 405
Alliance Française: 529
Almanac, Paris: 648
American Church: 294, 413, 529, 530, 539, 661; concerts, 32, 77, 518, 539
American Embassy and Consulate: 345–346, 660
American Hospital: 659
Americans, meeting: 530
American University: 294
Amsterdam, train travel: 559
Amusement parks: 482. See also Disneyland Paris
Apartment rentals: 22, 438–440, 674–675, 676–678
Apollo Basin (Versailles): 587
Apollo Gallery (Louvre): 167–168
Apollo Room (Versailles): 578–579
Appel, Karel: 373
Apps: 24, 699; language, 7, 661–662; maps and navigation, 667–668; messaging, 700–701; payment, 24, 664; public transit, 35; sightseeing, 669; user reviews, 675
Aquaboulevard: 486
Aquarium de Paris: 478
Arcaded shopping streets (passages): 513–514
Arcades des Champs-Elysées: 341–342
Arc de Triomphe: 95–96, 331–336; with children, 480; general info, 63, 96, 330–331; at night, 80, 520; view from top, 102, 334–336
Archaeological Crypt: 61, 64, 125, 479
Architecture and Monuments Museum: 73–75, 80
Arearea, or Joyousness (Gauguin): 206
Arms and Armor, at Army Museum: 266–267, 290
Army Museum: 79, 265–290; concerts, 266, 518; general info, 62, 79, 265–266; maps, 268, 286; self-guided tour, 267–290
Arp, Jean: 372
Arrondissements: 29–30; map, 29. See also Neighborhoods
Art: history timeline, 650–651. See also Art museums; and specific artists, artworks and periods
Art galleries: 316
Artisan Boulangerie: 233
Art museums: daily reminder, 32–33; evening hours, 519–520; general tips, 669–670; planning tips, 668; reservations and advance tickets, 23, 34, 54–55, 668–669; Architecture and Monuments Museum, 73–75, 80; Bourse de Commerce, 71; Cluny Museum, 84, 323–329; Dalí Museum, 402; Delacroix Museum, 86–87, 317; Fondation Louis Vuitton, 100, 336; International Stained Glass Center (Chartres), 630; Jacquemart-André Museum, 63, 110–111; Jewish Art and History Museum, 80, 113–116; Maison-Atelier de Daubigny (Auvers), 644; Marmottan Museum, 81, 300–309; Musée Daubigny (Auvers), 646; Musée des Beaux-Arts (Paris), 97–99, 343; Musée en Herbe, 481; Museum of Erotic Art, 409; Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny), 638; Orangerie Museum, 70, 213–223; Paris Museum Pass, 21, 23, 34, 55–59, 570; Picasso Museum, 63, 113, 355; Quai Branly Museum, 75–77, 80; Rodin Museum, 79, 81, 252–264. See also Louvre Museum; Orsay Museum; Pompidou Center
Art Nouveau: 99, 113, 210, 315, 341–342, 355; Cité Métropolitain stop, 150
Assyrians, at Louvre Museum: 182–186
Attitude of the French: 7
Aubade: 504
Auberge Ravoux (Auvers): 645
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 24, 47, 712–713
Au Gré du Vent: 505
Au Lapin Agile Cabaret: 405, 517
Auvers-sur-Oise: 14, 640–646; eating, 646; helpful hints, 643; sights, 643–646; tourist information, 642–643; transportation, 642
Auvers-sur-Oise Château: 644–645
Auvers-sur-Oise Church: 643
Avenue de la Bourdonnais: 294, 526; eating, 241; sleeping, 418
Avenue de Marigny: 343
Avenue des Champs-Elysées: See Champs-Elysées
Avenue de Tourville: 526
Avenue du Général Leclerc: 94, 511
Avenue du Père Lachaise: 298
Avenue Kléber: 526
Babysitters: 473
Baggage storage: 35, 159–160, 253, 324, 362, 552
Balthus: 373
Balzac (Rodin): 258
Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 24. See also Money
Bastille: 13, 297–298, 348–350; eating, 454; market, 420, 512
Bastille Opera: 298, 349–350, 518–519
Bateau-Lavoir: 407
Beaches (Paris Plages): 62, 80, 154, 532, 716
Beaubourg: See Pompidou Center
Beaujolais Nouveau: 537
Beaumarchais, Pierre: 351–352, 390
Beauvais Airport: 548–549
Beckmann, Max: 370
Bed-and-breakfasts: 676
Belleville: market, 511
Belvedere (Versailles): 593
Bernhardt, Sarah: 388–389
Beverages: 695–699. See also Wine and vineyards
BHV (department store): 357, 420, 456
Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris: 355
Biking: 44–47; with children, 485, 582; Fontainebleau, 602; Giverny, 635; Seine River promenade, 532–533; Tour de France, 338–339, 344, 716; tours, 51, 485; Vélib’, 46, 47, 137, 232, 533; Versailles, 481, 585
Bird market: 150
Birth of Venus (Cabanel): 192
Bishop’s Palace (Chartres): 627
Blues music: 516–517
Blue Virgin Window (Chartres Cathedral): 620–621
Boat cruises: 48–49, 485–486; Le Havre Cruise Port, 560; lunch and dinner, 467–468; at night, 520
Bon Marché: 500
Books, recommended: 717–720; for children, 476–477
Booksellers (bouquinistes): 136–138, 296
Bookstores: 34, 424, 430, 502–503; Fontainebleau, 605
Botticelli, Sandro: 168
Boulangeries: 233, 331, 341, 403, 474, 506, 596, 643, 683
Boules: 6, 103–104, 266, 412, 475–476, 482; about, 534; rules of, 534
Boulevard de Clichy: 409
Boulevard de Grenelle: market, 413, 512
Boulevard de Ménilmontant: 298, 391
Boulevard des Batignolles: market, 434, 513
Boulevard du Palais: 150
Boulevard Malesherbes: shopping, 499
Boulevard Raspail: 501–502, 513
Boulevard Richard Lenoir: market, 420, 512
Boulevard St. Germain: 81, 84, 295, 312, 318–319; cafés, 318–319, 469–470; eating, 459, 462; shopping, 504–505
Boulevard St. Michel: 81, 84, 143
Bourse de Commerce: 71
Brancusi, Constantin: 369
Brandy Melville: 504
Brasserie Bofinger: 454
Breakfast: overview, 680–681
Brussels, train travel: 559
Budgeting: 21–22
Burghers of Calais (Rodin): 263
Buses: 40–42, 559, 710; Auvers, 642; Beauvais Airport, 549; cards and passes, 36–37; Chantilly, 607; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 545; Disneyland Paris, 487–488, 547; Giverny, 634; Luxembourg Garden area, 431; map, 704–705; Marais, 421; Montmartre, 435; navigation tips, 43; Orly Airport, 548; Puces St. Ouen, 508; restaurants, 469; Rue Cler, 413; scenic routes, 44–45; sightseeing tour, 291–299; tours, 48, 486, 522; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 598–599
Business hours: 660–661
Cabanel, Alexandre: 192
Cabaret: 517; Montmartre, 400–401, 405, 517
Cabaret de Patachou: 400–401
Cabs: See Taxis
Cafés: 469–471, 685–688; common dishes, 691–695; history of, 468; Adopt a Café, 529; Champs-Elysées, 340–341; Chartres, 631; Gare de Lyon, 470–471, 554; Giverny, 639; near the Louvre, 159, 315; Luxembourg Garden area, 322, 470; ordering tips, 687–688; Orsay Museum, 189; Puces St. Ouen, 510; St. Germain-des-Prés, 318–319, 469–470, 522; Versailles, 571. See also specific cafés
Café de la Gare: 189
Café de la Mairie: 504
Café de la Paix: 109–110, 500, 522
Café de l’Odéon: 462
Café de Mars: 445
Café de Paris: 462
Café des Deux Moulins: 408, 522
Café Hugo: 451
Café la Palette: 315
Café le Bosquet: 444
Café le Procope: 318, 430, 470
Café Roussillon: 225–226, 443, 450
Café Vagenende: 319
Calder, Alexander: 372
Callas, Maria: 379
Canal St. Martin: 298
Canauxrama: 49
Candlelit visits, at Vaux-le-Vicomte Château: 599–600
Card Players, The (Cézanne): 202
Carnavalet Museum: 112–113, 354–355; eating, 451
Car rentals, Charles de Gaulle Airport: 547
Carrousel du Louvre: 158, 159, 491
Car travel (driving): Auvers, 642; Chartres, 611; Disneyland Paris, 488; Fontainebleau, 603; Giverny, 634; parking, in Paris, 559–560; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 599; Versailles, 566
Cassatt, Mary: 98
Catacombs of Paris: 93–94
Cathedral Close (Chartres): 627
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres: See Chartres Cathedral
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris: See Notre-Dame Cathedral
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Caveau de la Huchette: 516
Caviar Kaspia: 498
Cell phones: See Mobile phones
Cemetery: See Père Lachaise Cemetery
Center of New Industries and Technologies (CNIT): 102–103
Centre International du Vitrail (Chartres): 630
Centre Pompidou: See Pompidou Center
Cézanne, Paul: 69, 98, 202–203, 220–221, 640
Chagall, Marc: 108, 109, 116, 367–368
Champ de Mars: 293, 449, 478, 526
Champs-Elysées: 10, 62, 95, 336–337; cafés, 340–341; with children, 480; eating near, 331; maps, 96–97, 332–333; at night, 520, 526–527; walking tour, 330–346
Channel crossing: 557–559
Chantelivre: 502–503
Chantilly (town): 609
Chantilly Château: 606–609
Charcuteries: 231, 234–235, 683
Charcuterie-Traiteur Jeusselin: 231
Charles de Gaulle Airport: 542–547; map, 543; services, 543; sleeping, 436–438; transportation, 544–547
Chartres (town): 14, 610–631; eating, 631; helpful hints, 611; history of, 618–619; map, 612–613; planning tips, 610–611; sights, 612–630; sleeping, 630–631; tourist information, 611; walking tour, 626–630
Chartres Cathedral: 612–626; map, 616; self-guided tour, 615–626; tours, 614
Châteaux near Paris: 597–609; Auvers-sur-Oise, 644–645; Chantilly, 606–609; Fontainebleau, 602–605; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 598–602. See also Versailles Château
Cheeses: 694. See also Fromageries
Children: 472–489; eating tips, 473–474; parenting French-style, 473; Paris Museum Pass, 58; reading list, 476–477; shopping tips, 475–476; sightseeing tips, 474–476; top activities and sights, 478–489
Chinese New Year: 540
Chocolate: 230–231, 498, 499, 501, 504
Chopin, Frédéric: 386–387, 496, 500
Christmas carousels: 538
Christmas season: 537–539, 716
Chunnel: 558
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 652; concerts, 77, 84–85, 517–518, 539; English-language, 661; Auvers-sur-Oise Church, 643; La Madeleine, 496; Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 507; Sacré-Cœur, 63, 102, 395–399; St. Aignan (Chartres), 628; St. André Church (Chartres), 629–630; St. Eustache Church, 71; St. Germain-des-Prés, 84, 319; St. Julien-le-Pauvre, 140; St. Louis Church, 269; St. Paul and St. Louis, 297; St. Pierre (Chartres), 629; St. Pierre-de-Montmartre, 399–400; St. Séverin, 142; St. Sulpice, 84–86, 320. See also Chartres Cathedral; Notre-Dame Cathedral; Sainte-Chapelle
Cimabue: 168–169
Cimetière du Père Lachaise: See Père Lachaise Cemetery
Citadium: 493
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine: 73–75, 80
Cité des Enfants: 484–485
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie: 484
City Info Post: 235
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 24, 712
Claudel, Camille: 81, 209, 259–260
Cler Fleurs: 234–235
Clignancourt flea market: 508–510; map, 509
Clos Montmartre Vineyard: 404–405
Clothing: See Fashion
Clothing sizes: 722
Cluny Museum: 84, 323–329; eating near, 463; general info, 63, 84, 323–324; self-guided tour, 324–329
Code of Hammurabi: 181–182
Coffee: 696–698. See also Cafés
Colette: 390
Comédie Française: 318
“Communards’ Wall”: 382
Conceptual Art: 376
Concerts: 77, 84–85, 266, 517–518, 539
Conciergerie: 65, 150–153, 296, 527
Consulates: 660
Context Travel: 50
Convention Nationale Monument: 90–91
Cooking classes and schools: 529, 531
Corday, Charlotte: 344
Cormon, Fernand: 211
Coronation of Emperor Napoleon (David): 175–176
Costs of trip: 21–22
Coulée Verte Promenade-Park: 118
Courbet, Gustave: 98, 194, 343
Cour du Commerce St. André: 318
Credit cards: 24, 662–665; contactless payment, 24, 662–664; lost or stolen, 666
Crêpes (crêperies): 357, 448–449, 454, 456, 463, 473, 684–685
Crown of Thorns: 64, 131, 132, 148–149
Cruises: See Boat cruises
Cubism: 202–203, 218, 220–221, 365–367, 407
Cuisine: 8, 689–695; common dishes, 691–695; by region, 690–691; seasonal, 540. See also Cafés; Eating; Food
Curie, Marie: 91
Currency and exchange: 663
Customs regulations: 667
Cycling: See Biking
Dadaism: 371
Dalí, Salvador: 371–372; Museum, 402
Dance at the Moulin de la Galette (Renoir): 200–201
Dance Class, The (Degas): 202
Daubigny, Charles-François: 640, 644
Daumier, Honoré: 192–193
David, Jacques-Louis: 175–176, 388
Da Vinci, Leonardo: 171–174, 602; Mona Lisa, 172–174
Davoli: 231
Day trips: 561–646; guided tours, 52–53; map, 562. See also specific destinations
D-Day beaches, guided tours: 53
Deconstructionism: 375–376
Degas, Edgar: 201–202
De Gaulle, Charles: 95–96, 275, 276, 280–281, 283, 334, 343, 359, 655; exhibit at Army Museum, 266, 289–290
De Gaulle Airport: See Charles de Gaulle Airport
Delacroix, Eugène: 85–86, 177–178, 608; grave, 388; Museum, 86–87, 317; St. Sulpice Church, 320
Delville, Jean: 211
Department stores: 492–493; Christmas season, 538; map, 494–495. See also specific department stores
Deportation Memorial: 64, 135–136
Derain, André: 221–222
Desserts: overview, 694–695
Detaille, Edouard: 211
Deux Chevaux Car Tours: 533
Diana Room (Versailles): 577
Diderot, Denis: 90
Dietary restrictions: 687
Dinner cruises: 467–468
Dinosaurs: 483
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Disneyland Paris: 487–489, 547
Dix, Otto: 370
Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 563, 567, 591–595; map, 589
Drinks: 695–699. See also Cafés; Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel
Drugstores: See Pharmacies
Dubuffet, Jean: 373
Duchamp, Marcel: 371
Eating: 441–471, 679–695; common dishes, 691–695; cuisine, 689–695; dietary restrictions, 687; lunch and dinner cruises, 467–468; money-saving tips, 441–442; restaurant phrases, 728; with children, 473–474; Army Museum, 266; Auvers-sur-Oise, 646; budgeting, 22; Champs-Elysées, 331; Chantilly, 609; Chartres, 631; Disneyland Paris, 488; Eiffel Tower, 241, 249; Fontainebleau, 605–606; Giverny, 639–640; Ile de la Cité, 138, 458–459; Ile St. Louis, 457–458; Louvre Museum, 159; Luxembourg Garden area, 459–466; Marais, 356–357, 450–457; money-saving tips, 22; Montmartre, 393–394, 466–467; Orsay Museum, 189; Pompidou Center, 362; Puces St. Ouen, 510; Rodin Museum, 253–254; Rue Cler, 442–450; tipping, 666, 686; Versailles, 571–572, 596. See also Cafés; Crêpes; Markets
Egouts de Paris: 77–78
Eiffel Tower: 72, 102, 238–251, 293; advance tickets and reservations, 23, 72, 238–240; best views of, 77, 102, 242–243; with children, 478; eating, 241, 249; general info, 62, 72, 238–240, 242–243; history of, 245–247; map, 244; at night, 80, 520; overview, 243; self-guided tour, 244–251
Eiffel Tower area: 10, 13, 238–251; with children, 478; eating, 448; map, 74–75, 239; sights, 72–81. See also Rue Cler
Electricity: 661
Elysée Palace: 343
Embassies: 660
Enfants Rouges Market: 420, 511
Entertainment: See Cabaret; Music; Nightlife
Environmental footprint (going green): 662
Erotic Art Museum: 409
Espace Notre-Dame: 60–61, 62, 101, 125, 480
Esplanade de La Défense: 104
Esplanade des Invalides: 294–295, 523, 526
Eternelle Notre-Dame: 61
ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 658–659
Eure River: 629
Eurolines: 710
European Union (EU): 655, 656, 658–659
Eurostar: 557–559
Exchange rate: 663
Excursion areas: 561–646; guided tours, 52–53; map, 562. See also specific destinations
Expositions d’Explora: 485
Expressionism: 370–371; Abstract, 373–374
Faire la Bise: 234
Families: See Children
Fashion: boutiques, 493, 499–500, 502, 504–505; clothing sizes, 722; department stores, 492–493
Fauchon: 497–498
Fauvism: 365
Festivals: 715–716
Films, recommended: 720–721
Flea markets: 507–511
Floodlit Paris Driving Tour: 522–527; map, 524–525
Flower market: 150
Fondation Louis Vuitton: 100, 336
Fontainebleau (town): 602–606; eating, 605–606; sleeping, 605
Fontainebleau Château: 602–605
Fontana, Lucio: 373
Food: cooking classes, 529, 531; guided tours, 530; lunch and dinner cruises, 467–468; Place de la Madeleine, 496–499; Rue Cler, 224–237; Rue des Martyrs, 505–507; seasonal, 540. See also Boulangeries; Charcuteries; Chocolate; Crêpes; Eating; Fromageries; Markets; Pâtisseries
Forum des Halles: 70–71, 510–511
Foucault pendulum: 90
Fouquet’s: 340–341
Fragonard Perfume Museum: 110
Franklin, Benjamin: 318, 341, 345, 470
Franprix: 228
Free sights and activities: 76–77
French attittude: 7
French kiss: 234
French language: See Language
French National Assembly: 346, 523
French pronunciation guide: 725–726
French restaurant phrases: 728
French survival phrases: 727
Funicular, Montmartre: 393
Galerie Colbert: 68–69
Galerie de Minéralogie: 483
Galerie de Paléontologie: 483
Galerie des Enfants du Muséum: 484
Galeries Lafayette: 102–103, 110, 492–493; Christmas windows, 538; concerts, 518
Gardens: See Giverny; Luxembourg Garden; Parks and gardens; Tuileries Garden
Gare d’Austerlitz: 557
Gare de Bercy: 557
Gare de l’Est: 555–556
Gare de Lyon: 553–555; café, 470–471, 554; services, 553–554
Gare d’Orsay: 189–191. See also Orsay Museum
Gare du Nord: 551–552
Gare Montparnasse: 552–553
Gare St. Lazare: 556–557
Garnier Opera House: 63, 104–109, 519; map, 107
Gates of Hell (Rodin): 209, 262–263
Gauguin, Paul: 205–206, 365, 642
Gay and lesbian travelers: 358, 420; nightlife, 457
Gehry, Frank: 336
Geneviève, Saint: 88–89
Géricault, Théodore: 176–177, 388
Giacometti, Alberto: 373
Giotto: 169–170
Giverny: 14, 632–640; eating, 639–640; map, 633; sights, 636–638; sleeping, 639; tourist information, 635; transportation, 634–635
Gleaners, The (Millet): 193
Grand Canal (Versailles): 587–588
Grand Châteaux near Paris: See Châteaux near Paris; Versailles Château
Grande Arche de la Fraternité: 100–104
Grande Galerie de l’Evolution: 483–484
Grande Mosquée de Paris: 94, 466
Grand Trianon (Versailles): 563, 567, 588–591
Greek statues, in the Louvre: 161–164
Gris, Juan: 407
Grosz, George: 370
Guerlain: 342
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: updates, 26, 711
Guided tours: See Tours
Guides: See Tour guides
Guillaume, Paul: 218, 219, 222
Hall of Mirrors (Versailles): 579–580
Hamlet, the (Versailles): 593–594
Haussmann, Georges-Eugène, Baron: 92, 143, 237, 336, 337, 351, 354, 499; biographical sketch, 106; tomb, 387, 390
Héloïse: 389
Hemingway, Ernest: 87, 136, 141, 319, 364, 381–382, 468, 500, 718
Henry IV: 136, 154, 168, 321, 352, 354, 627, 653
Hercules Drawing Room (Versailles): 574–575
Hermès: 501–502
Hervé Chapelier: 504
Hiking: Fontainebleau, 602; Giverny, 635; Versailles, 585
Historic core of Paris: 10; maps, 56–57, 126–127; sights, 59–65; walking tour, 122–155
History: 647–656; timeline of Paris, 136–137
History museum (Carnavalet Museum): 112–113, 354–355
Holidays: 715–716; winter in Paris, 536–541
Holocaust Memorial: 116–117, 358
Honoré de Balzac (Rodin): 258
Horse museum, at Chantilly: 609
Horse shows, in Chantilly: 607
Hostels: 425, 678–679; Chartres, 631
Hotels: key phrases, 676; overview, 672–676; reservations, 21–22, 23, 678–679. See also Sleeping
Hôtel de Sully: 352–353
Hôtel de Ville: 297, 359–360; eating near, 455–456
Hôtel Hyatt Regency: 99–100, 103, 336
Hôtel Lutetia: 501
Hugo, Victor: 78, 91, 106, 124–125, 264, 297, 387, 720; House, 119, 354
Ice cream: 138, 231–232, 458, 521
Ice skating: 538
Ile de la Cité: 10, 59–61, 64, 296–297; eating, 138, 458–459; guided tours, 50; map, 126–127; sights, 59–61; walking tours, 123–134, 296–297
Ile St. Louis: 63, 64, 134–136, 426; eating, 138, 457–458; guided tours, 50; ice cream, 138, 458, 521; map, 126–127; at night, 521; picnicking, 458; sleeping, 426–427; transportation, 545
Impression: Sunrise (Monet): 306
Impressionism: 196–197; Giverny, 632–633, 636–638; Marmottan Museum, 81, 300–309; Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny), 638; Orangerie Museum, 70, 213–223; Orsay Museum, 196–203. See also specific artists and artworks
In a Café (Degas): 202
Information: See Tourist information
Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 176, 191–192, 287, 388
Institut de France: 311–312
Institut du Monde Arabe: 95, 103
International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 630
Internet security: 701
Iraq antiquities, in the Louvre: 179–186
Italian Renaissance art, in the Louvre: 170–175, 178–179
Itineraries: 15–20
Jacquemart-André Museum: 63, 80, 110–111
Jane Avril Dancing (Toulouse-Lautrec): 207
Jardin d’Acclimatation: 485
Jardin des Plantes: 87, 94, 483–484
Jardin des Rosiers: 358
Jardin des Tuileries: See Tuileries Garden
Jardin du Luxembourg: See Luxembourg Garden
Jefferson, Thomas: 341
Jewish Art and History Museum: 80, 113–116
Jewish Quarter: 355–358; eating, 356–357, 455
Joan of Arc: 85, 90, 132, 322–323, 332–333, 398, 649
Jo Goldenberg: 357
Joséphine Baker Pool: 486
Jules Verne Restaurant: 241, 249
Kandinsky, Wassily: 368–369
Kids: See Children
King Sargon II and a Dignitary: 184–185
Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig: 370
Kiss, The (Rodin): 256
Klee, Paul: 369–370
Kokoschka, Oskar: 370
La Belle Jardinière (Raphael): 172
Labyrinth (Chartres Cathedral): 617–618
La Chambre aux Confiture: 507
La Coulée Verte Promenade-Park: 118
La Défense: 100–104
La Dernière Goutte: 317–318
Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 84, 327–328
La Fontaine de Mars: 448
La Grande Arche de la Fraternité: 100–104
La Grande Epicerie de Paris: 501
La Grande Odalisque (Ingres): 176
La Madeleine: 496
La Maison-Atelier de Daubigny (Auvers): 644
La Maison des Truffe: 498, 540
La Maison du Chocolat: 501
La Maison Rose Restaurant: 404
La Marseillaise (Rude): 332–333
Language: 27; barrier and French attitude, 7; classes, 529; driver lingo, 526; hotel terms, 676; online translation tip, 661–662; pronunciation guide, 725–726; restaurant phrases, 728; shopping phrases, 491; survival phrases, 727; transportation phrases, 554–555
La Réveillon: 539
Latin Quarter: 81, 84, 142–144; guided tours, 50; map, 82–83; markets, 512–513; nightlife, 516
Latona Basin (Versailles): 586
La Tour d’Argent: 135
La Tour Eiffel: See Eiffel Tower
La Tour Montparnasse: 91–92, 103; eating, 92, 470
Laundry: Chartres, 611; Marais, 420; Montmartre, 435; Rue Cler, 413
La Villette: See Parc de la Villette
La Villette Jazz Festival: 716
Le Bateau-Lavoir: 407
Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 198
Left Bank: 13, 81–94, 136–145; bouquinistes, 136–138, 296; maps, 82–83, 313, 502; shopping, 500–505; sights, 81–94; walking tours, 136–145, 310–322. See also Historic core of Paris
Léger, Fernand: 367
Le Havre Cruise Port: 560
Le Jules Verne Restaurant: 241, 249
Le Loir dans la Théière: 355, 356, 424, 455
Le Marais: See Marais
Leonardo da Vinci: See Da Vinci, Leonardo
Le Parc Zoologique de Paris: 480–481
L’Epicerie Fine: 232–233
Les Berges de Seine: 212
Les Berges du Seine: 212
Les Bouquinistes: See Bouquinistes
Les Caves du Louvre: 71–72
Les Deux Magots Café: 319, 469, 522
Les Egouts de Paris: 77–78
Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (Versailles): 518–519, 571
Les Invalides: 265–290, 294–295, 416, 449; sound-and-light show, 266, 413. See also Army Museum
L’Espace Dalí: 402
Le Tour de France: 338–339, 344, 716
Le Violon d’Ingres: 448
Lhermitte, Léon: 211
Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix): 86, 177–178, 317
Little Prince, The (Saint-Exupéry): 315
Live music: See Cabaret; Concerts; Music
L’Officiel des Spectacles: 30, 33, 77, 105, 482, 515
Loire Valley, guided tours: 52
London, train travel: 557–559
Longchamp: 504
L’Orangerie: See Orangerie Museum
Lost in Frenchlation: 519, 529
Louis IX: 116, 145, 149, 397, 496, 618, 619, 625
Louis Vuitton: 340
Louis Vuitton Foundation: 100
Louis XIV (Sun King): 136, 140, 154, 168, 265, 268–269, 285–286, 336, 343, 500, 600, 653; biographical sketch, 564–565; Versailles, 563, 572–584
Louis XV: 88–89, 168, 351–352, 563, 565, 576, 581, 582, 590, 593–594, 602, 653
Louis XVI: 65, 68, 69, 151, 152, 168, 344, 345, 563, 565, 579, 581, 583, 594, 653
Louvre Museum: 65–68, 156–186, 296; cafés near, 159, 315; eating, 159; general info, 62, 68, 156–160; maps, 157, 162, 164, 169, 180; at night, 527; self-guided tour, 161–186; survival tips, 160
Louvre Wine Museum: 71–72
Luggage storage: 35, 159–160, 253, 324, 362, 552
Luncheon on the Grass (Manet): 198
Luxembourg Garden: 87, 320–322; with children, 482; map, 321; picnicking, 449
Luxembourg Garden area: 13, 427–431; cafés, 322, 470; eating, 459–466; maps, 428–429, 460–461; musts for temporary residents, 430; services, 427; sleeping, 427–434; transportation, 430–431
Luxor obelisk: 344
McDonald’s: 337–339
Macron, Emmanuel: 131, 137, 224, 657
Mail: 701–702
Maison-Atelier de Daubigny (Auvers): 644
Maison du Chocolat: 501
Maison du Docteur Gachet (Auvers): 645
Maison du Saumon (Chartres): 628
Maison Mulot: 505
Maje Stock: 502
Manet, Edouard: 193–194, 197–198, 303
Mantegna, Andrea: 111
Maps: apps and navigation tools, 667–668. See also Map Index
Marais: 13, 111–119, 297, 420–421; eating, 356–357, 450–457; guided tours, 50; maps, 114–115, 350–351, 422–423, 452–453; markets, 420, 511; musts for temporary residents, 424; at night, 521; nightlife, 457; picnicking, 456–457; services, 420; shopping, 493, 496–500, 505–507; sights, 111–119; sleeping, 420, 424–426; tourist office, 420; transportation, 421, 545; walking tour, 347–360
Marché: See Markets
Marie-Antoinette: 65, 150–153, 296, 481, 565; Versailles, 563, 565, 574, 581–584, 588–595
Marionette shows: 322, 478, 481–482
Markets: 507–513; Bastille, 420, 512; Boulevard de Grenelle, 413, 512; Boulevard des Batignolles, 434, 513; Boulevard Richard Lenoir, 420, 512; Chantilly, 609; Chartres, 611, 628; Christmas, 538–539; Enfants Rouges, 420, 511; Les Halles, 70–71, 510–511; Luxembourg Garden area, 427; Marais, 420, 511, 512; Place d’Aligre, 420, 512; Place d’Anvers, 434; Place Louis Lépine, 150; Place Maubert, 512–513; Place Monge, 512; Rue Cler, 413, 510; Rue Daguerre, 94, 511; Rue de Buci, 317–318, 511; Rue de Seine, 511; Rue des Martyrs, 511; Rue Montorgueil, 510–511; Rue Mouffetard, 511; Versailles, 595. See also Clignancourt flea market
Marmottan Museum: 81, 300–309; general info, 63, 81, 300–301; self-guided tour, 302–309
Marriage at Cana (Veronese): 174–175
Mars Room (Versailles): 577–578
Martin, Henri: 211
Meeting the locals: 528–529
Meetup: 530
Mémorial de la Déportation: 64, 135–136
Mémorial de la Shoah: 116–117, 358
Ménagerie des Jardin des Plantes: 483
Mephisto Shoe Store: 234
Mercury Room (Versailles): 578
Metric system: 721–722
Métro: 37–40, 648; cards and passes, 36–37; Cité stop, 150; etiquette, 38–39; key words, 39; Luxembourg Garden area, 430; Marais, 421; Montmartre, 435; Orly Airport, 547; pickpockets, 39–40; Puces St. Ouen, 508; resources, 38–39; Rue Cler, 413, 416
Michelangelo Buonarotti: 178
Millet, Jean-François: 193
Ministry of Defense: 295
Mobile phones: 24, 699–701; with children, 476–478. See also Apps
Modigliani, Amedeo: 116, 220, 388, 405, 407
Molière: 384–385
Mona Lisa (da Vinci): 172–174
Mondrian, Piet: 369
Monet, Claude: 98, 198–200, 259, 303–305; Giverny Garden and House, 636–638; grave, 638; Marmottan Museum, 81, 303–309; Orangerie Museum, 70, 213–218; Orsay Museum, 198–200
Money: 662–667; average daily expenses, 22; budgeting, 21–22; with children, 476–477; contactless payment, 24, 662–664
Money belts: 26, 31, 476, 662, 665
Money-saving tips: 21–22, 660; eating, 22, 441–442; free sights and activities, 76–77; Paris Museum Pass, 21, 23, 34, 55–59, 570; sightseeing, 76–77; sleeping, 21–22, 671–672; transportation, 36–37; Versailles, 567, 570
Monoprix: 420, 434, 457, 596, 605
Montmartre: 14, 63, 119–120, 392–410, 434–435; cabaret, 400–401, 405, 517; eating, 393–394, 466–467; guided tours, 50; history of counterculture, 402; maps, 396–397, 436–437; markets, 434; nightlife, 467; orientation, 392–394; services, 434; shopping, 394; sleeping, 435; transportation, 393, 435, 545; walking tour, 392–410
Montmartre Museum: 120, 403–404
Montparnasse Tower: 91–92, 103; eating, 92, 470
Morard, Gilbert: 385
Moulin de la Galette: 406
Movies, outdoor, at La Villette: 519
Movies, recommended: 720–721; for children, 476–477
Mur des Fédérés (Père Lachaise Cemetery): 382
Musée Carnavalet: 112–113, 354–355; eating, 451
Musée d’Art et Histoire du Judaïsme: 80, 113–116
Musée Daubigny (Auvers): 646
Musée de l’Absinthe (Auvers): 644
Musée de l’Armée: See Army Museum
Musée de l’Orangerie: See Orangerie Museum
Musée de Montmartre: 120, 403–404
Musée des Beaux-Arts (Paris): 97–99, 343
Musée des Plans-Reliefs: 289
Musée d’Orsay: See Orsay Museum
Musée du Louvre: See Louvre Museum
Musée du Quai Branly: 75–77, 80
Musée en Herbe: 481
Musée Jacquemart-André: 63, 80, 110–111
Musée Marmottan Monet: See Marmottan Museum
Musée National de la Marine: 73
Musée National du Moyen Age: See Cluny Museum
Musée National Eugène Delacroix: 86–87, 317
Museé Pompidou: See Pompidou Center
Musée Rodin: See Rodin Museum
Museums: at night, 80, 519–520; by neighborhood, 10, 65–72; daily reminder, 32–33; evening hours, 519–520; for early birds, 80; general tips, 669–670; planning tips, 668; reservations and advance tickets, 23, 34, 54–55, 668–669; Carnavalet Museum, 112–113, 354–355; Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, 484–485; Fragonard Perfume Museum, 110; Galerie des Enfants du Muséum, 484; Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, 483–484; map, 66–67; Montmartre Museum, 120, 403–404; National Maritime Museum, 73, 478; Paris Museum Pass, 21, 23, 34, 55–59, 570. See also Army Museum; Art museums; Louvre Museum; Orangerie Museum; Orsay Museum; Pompidou Center; and specific museums
Museum of Carriages (Vaux-le-Vicomte): 601
Museum of Erotic Art: 409
Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 638
Museum of the Order of Liberation: 290
Museums: Galerie de Paléontologie, 483
Music: 516–519; event listings, 30, 515–516, 517; jazz and blues, 516–517; opera, 518–519; at Versailles, 518–519, 571. See also Cabaret; Concerts
Napoleon Bonaparte: 79, 95, 136, 175–176, 287–289, 293, 295, 318, 331–332, 353–354, 499, 590–591, 602–603, 604, 653; biographical sketch, 271; Tomb, 62, 79, 267–272
Napoleon III: 104, 107, 119, 136, 143, 192, 289, 387, 602, 654
Napoleon I Museum (Fontainebleau): 604
National Maritime Museum: 73, 478
National Museum of the Middle Ages: See Cluny Museum
Navigo Easy Card: 36–37, 38, 40, 543
Near Eastern antiquities, in the Louvre: 179–186
Neighborhoods: 10–14; map, 9. See also specific neighborhoods
Neoclassicism, in the Louvre: 175–176
Newman, Barnett: 374
Nightlife: 515–527; after-dark tours, 522; budgeting, 22; event listings, 30, 515–516, 517; floodlit driving tour, 522–527; Marais, 457; Montmartre, 400–401, 405, 467, 517; Rue Cler, 450. See also Cabaret; Music
Noah Window (Chartres Cathedral): 623
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Paris): 60, 123–125, 128–134, 297; with children, 479–480; facade, 125, 128–132; general info, 60, 62; history of, 124–125; maps, 128, 133; at night, 521; side view, 139–140; virtual tour of interior, 132, 134; walking tour, 125, 128–134
Notre-Dame d’Auvers: 643
Notre-Dame de Chartres: See Chartres Cathedral
Notre-Dame-de-Lorette: 507
Odéon Cinemas: 318, 521–522; eating near, 462–463; sleeping near, 433
Olympia (Manet): 193–194
Opera: 518–519
Opéra Bastille: 298, 349–350, 518–519
Opéra Exhibit (Orsay Museum): 195
Opéra Garnier: 13, 63, 104–109, 519; map, 107
Opéra neighborhood: 13, 104–111; map, 105; sights, 104–111
Orangerie Museum: 70, 213–223; general info, 62, 70, 213–214; map, 215; self-guided tour, 214–223
Organized tours: See Tours
Orly Airport: 547–548; sleeping, 438
Orsay Museum: 69, 187–212, 295; eating, 189; general info, 62, 69, 187–189; maps, 190, 196, 204, 208; self-guided tour, 189–212
Outdoor dancing: 535
Packing tips and checklist: 24, 724; with children, 472–473
Painter’s Studio, The (Courbet): 194
Palais de Justice: 149–150
Palais Garnier: 104–109
Palais Royal Courtyards: 68, 449
Panthéon: 63, 88–91; eating near, 463; map, 89; sleeping near, 433–434
Parc de la Villette: 484–485; outdoor movies, 519
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont: 87
Parc Zoologique de Paris: 480–481
Paris Archaeological Crypt: 61, 64, 125, 479
Paris by Mouth: 530
Paris Catacombs: 93–94
Paris City Vision: 53
Paris Greeter: 528–529
Paris Historical Library: 355
Paris Muse Tours: 50
Paris Museum Pass: 21, 23, 34, 55–59, 567, 570; buying, 57–58; using, 58–59
Paris Perfect: 439
Paris Plages: 62, 80, 154, 532, 716
Paris Sewer Museum: 77–78
Paris Webservices: 53, 566, 634
Paris Zoo: 480–481
Parking: 559–560
Parks and gardens: Adopt a Chair, 529; Champ de Mars, 293, 449, 478, 526; with children, 481–485; Jardin d’Acclimatation, 485; Jardin des Plantes, 87, 94, 483–484; La Coulée Verte Promenade-Park, 118; Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, 87; Parc Monceau, 87, 111. See also Giverny; Luxembourg Garden; Tuileries Garden; Versailles Gardens
Parthenon Friezes: 164–165
Passage Choiseul: 513
Passage du Bourg l’Abbé: 513–514
Passage du Grand Cerf: 513–514
Passage Jouffroy: 514
Passage Panoramas: 514
Passage Ste. Anne: 513
Pâtisseries: 341, 408, 498, 499, 505, 507, 683
Patrick Roger Chocolates: 499, 504
Peace Room (Versailles): 581
Pedal cab tours: 52
Pedestrian safety: 33–34
Père Lachaise Cemetery: 80, 118–119, 298–299, 377–391; general info, 63, 118, 377–378; map, 380–381; walking tour, 378–390
Performing arts: See Ballet; Cabaret; Music; Theater
Petit trains: 585, 588, 595, 603, 635
Petit Trianon (Versailles): 567, 593–595
Philharmonie de Paris: 518
Phones: 699–701
Photography at sights: 669
Piaf, Edith: 383, 400–401, 404, 409, 720
Picasso, Pablo: 206, 219, 221, 319, 372, 381, 402, 468, 503; Museum, 63, 113, 355; Pompidou Center, 365–367; Studio, 407
Pickpockets: See Theft alerts
Picnics (picnicking): 474, 681–685; assembling, 682–684; best spots, 449; Ile St. Louis, 458; Marais, 456–457; Rue Cler, 449–450; to-go foods, 684–685; vocabulary, 682. See also Markets
Pinault, François: 71
Pink Panther (movie): 150
Pissarro, Camille: 202, 343, 640, 645
Place Blanche: 409
Place Clemenceau: 343
Place d’Aligre: market, 420, 512
Place d’Anvers: 434; market, 434
Place Dauphine: 153; eating, 138, 153
Place de la Bastille: 297–298, 348–350; eating, 454
Place de la Concorde: 344–346, 527; at night, 521
Place de la Madeleine: 110, 496–499; map, 497
Place de la Sorbonne: 143; cafés, 463; eating, 324, 463
Place de l’Opéra: 521; shopping, 500
Place des Abbesses: 393, 394, 434; eating, 467
Place des Vosges: 353–354, 449, 456–457; eating, 450–451; sleeping near, 421–425
Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: eating, 454–455
Place du Tertre: 120, 399, 401, 467
Place du Trocadéro: 73, 103, 242–243, 250, 478, 520, 526
Place Emile Goudeau: 407–408
Place Emile-Goudeau: 408
Place Gambetta: 298
Place Louis Lépine: market, 150
Place Maubert: market, 512–513
Place Michel Debré: 503–504
Place Monge: market, 512
Place St. André-des-Arts: 144; eating, 138, 144
Place St. Germain-des-Prés: 319, 521–522
Place St. Michel: 144–145
Place Thomas Jefferson: 341
Place Vauban: 526
Place Vendôme: 521; shopping, 110, 499–500
Poilâne: 504
Point Zero: 124
Poissonnerie: 230
Politics: 656–657
Pollock, Jackson: 373–374
Pompidou Center: 103, 117–118, 358–359, 361–376; with children, 480; general info, 63, 117–118, 361–362; map, 366–367; picnicking, 449; self-guided tour, 363–376; sleeping near, 425–426
Pont Alexandre III: 294–295, 343, 448
Pont au Double: 140
Pont de la Concorde: 346
Pont de la Tournelle: 134, 523
Pont d’Iéna: 526
Pont St. Michel: 145
Pop Art: 374–375
Population: 648
Porte de Clignancourt: 508–510; map, 509
Post-Impressionism: 203–207, 365. See also specific artists
Post offices: 701–702
Promenade Plantée Park: 118
Proust, Marcel: 388
Puces de Vanves: 510
Puces St. Ouen Flea Market: 508–510; map, 509
Puppet shows: 322, 478, 481–482
Qatar Embassy: 337
Quai de l’Archeveché: 521
Quai de la Tournelle: 523
Quai de l’Horloge: 153
Quartier Latin: See Latin Quarter
Raft of the Medusa, The (Géricault): 176–177
Rail passes: 557, 702–703, 706, 708, 712
Rail stations: See Train stations
Rail travel: See Train travel
Raspail: market, 513
Rauschenberg, Robert: 374
Red-light district: See Pigalle
Reims, guided tours: 52
Renault: 342
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: 200–201, 220, 259, 403, 404, 406
Rental apartments: 438–440, 674–675, 676–678
RER (Réseau Express Régionale): 40; Auvers, 642; Beauvais Airport, 549; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 545–546, 549; Disneyland Paris, 487–488; Fontainebleau, 603; Orly Airport, 548, 549; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 598; Versailles, 564–566
Resources from Rick Steves: 711–713
Restaurants: ordering tips, 688–689; overview, 685–689; pricing, 680. See also Eating
Restrooms: 35
Rietveld, Gerrit: 370
Rilke, Rainer Maria: 258
Rimbaud, Arthur: 320
Riverboat rides: See Boat cruises
Robespierre, Maximilien de: 65, 318, 344
Rodin, Auguste: 207–210; bronze casting process, 260; creative process of, 257. See also Rodin Museum
Rodin Museum: 79, 81, 252–264; eating, 253–254; general info, 63, 81, 252–254; maps, 253, 255, 259; self-guided tour, 254–264
RoissyBus: 545
Roissy-en-France: sleeping, 438
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 61, 62–63, 124, 129, 132, 136, 141, 165–166, 324–325, 400, 647
Romanticism, in the Louvre: 176–178
Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées: 342–343
Rose Windows (Chartres Cathedral): 618–620
Rossini, Gioacchino: 390
Rouault, Georges: 372
Rouen: 635
Rousseau, Henri: 222
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques: 90
Royal Chapel (Versailles): 574
Royal Drive (Versailles): 585–586
Rue Cler: 62, 78–79, 224–237, 412–413, 416; cafés, 225–226, 443; eating, 442–450; maps, 227, 414–415, 446–447; markets, 226, 228, 413, 510; musts for temporary residents, 416; nightlife, 450; picnicking, 449–450; sleeping, 416–420; transportation, 413, 416, 545; walking tour, 225–237
Rue de Birague: 352
Rue de Bretagne: eating, 456; market, 420, 512
Rue de Buci: 317–318, 522; eating, 462; market, 317–318, 511
Rue de Courcelles: 111
Rue de Furstenberg: 317
Rue de Grenelle: eating, 444–445, 448
Rue de l’Abbaye: 317
Rue de la Bûcherie: 140–141
Rue de la Foulerie (Chartres): 629
Rue de la Paix: 500
Rue de Lappe: 298; nightlife, 457
Rue de la Roquette: 298
Rue de l’Echaudé: 315
Rue de Lutèce: 150
Rue des Abbesses: 394, 408, 434; eating, 393–394, 467; nightlife, 467
Rue des Changes (Chartres): 628
Rue de Seine: 312, 314–315; market, 511; shopping, 505
Rue de Sèvres: shopping, 500–503
Rue des Francs Bourgeois: 354
Rue des Grenets (Chartres): 628
Rue des Lombards: music, 517
Rue des Martyrs: 394, 409; shopping, 505–507, 511
Rue des Rosiers: 355–358; eating, 356–357, 455; Falafel Row, 356, 455; nightlife, 457
Rue des Saules: 403
Rue des Trois Frères: 434; eating, 467; nightlife, 467
Rue de Tilsitt: 337
Rue du Bac: 295
Rue du Bourg (Chartres): 629
Rue du Cherche-Midi: 504
Rue du Cloître Notre-Dame: 134
Rue du Mont-Cenis: 400
Rue du Petit-Pont: 141
Rue du Vieux Colombier: 504
Rue Férou: 320
Rue Galande: 140
Rue Girardon: 405
Rue Guisarde: 459
Rue Jacob: 316
Rue la Boëtie: 342
Rue Montorgueil: 71; market, 510–511
Rue Mouffetard: 430; eating, 464–466; map, 465; market, 427, 511; sleeping, 433–434
Rue Pavée: 355
Rue Poulbot: 401
Rue Royale: shopping, 499
Rue St. Antoine: 297, 350–352; eating, 454–455
Rue St. Dominique: 294, 413; eating, 294, 448–449; market, 413; sleeping, 418
Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie: 112, 358, 457
Rue St. Honoré: shopping, 499
Rue St. Séverin: 142
Rue St. Sulpice: shopping, 504
Rue Soufflot: eating, 324, 463
Rue Vieille du Temple: 358
Rue Yvonne le Tac: 394–395
Sacré-Cœur: 63, 80, 102, 119–120, 395–399; eating near, 466–467; map, 399
St. Aignan Church (Chartres): 628
St. André Church (Chartres): 629–630
Sainte-Chapelle: 64–65, 145–149; altar, 149; concerts, 123, 517–518; general info, 62, 64–65, 123; map, 146; stained glass, 147–149
St. Eustache Church: 71
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de: 315
St. Germain-des-Prés: 319; cafés, 319, 469–470, 522; nightlife, 521–522; shopping, 505
St. Germain-des-Prés Church: 84, 319
St. Julien-le-Pauvre: 140
St. Louis Church: 269
St. Ouen Flea Market: 508–510; map, 509
St. Paul and St. Louis Church: 297
Saint-Phalle, Niki de: 359
St. Pierre Church (Chartres): 629
St. Pierre-de-Montmartre Church: 399–400
St. Séverin Church: 142
St. Sulpice Church: 84–86, 320; concerts, 84–85; eating near, 459, 462; sleeping near, 431–432
Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendents: 537
Sand, George: 317, 387; House, 314–315
San Francisco Book Company: 34, 430
Sargon II: 182–186
Satie, Erik: 402; House, 403–404
Seasonal foods: 540
Seasons: 15, 722; winter in Paris, 536–541
Segway Tours: 52
Seine River: 154–155, 521, 523, 526; beaches, 62, 80, 154, 532, 716; biking, 532–533; bouquinistes, 136–138, 296; eating, 448; eating in barges along, 138; picnicking, 449; promenade, 62, 76, 155, 212, 291, 296, 416, 449, 479, 483, 532–533. See also Boat cruises
Self-Portrait (Van Gogh): 205
Sephora: 342
Seurat, Georges: 388
Sewers of Paris: 77–78
Shakespeare and Company: 34, 140–141
Shopping: 490–514; arcaded streets (passages), 513–514; bouquinistes, 136–138, 296; boutique strolls, 493, 496–507; Champs-Elysées, 340, 341–342; with children, 475–476; at Christmas, 538–539, 540; clothing sizes, 722; hours, 660–661; key phrases, 491; map, 494–495; Montmartre, 394, 434; tips on, 490–491; VAT refunds, 666–667. See also Department stores; Fashion; Markets
Shroud of Turin: 86
Sightseeing: 54–410; at a glance, 62–63; Auvers, 643–646; best views, 102–103; budgeting, 21; bus #69 tour, 291–299; Chartres, 612–630; with children, 474–476, 478–489; daily reminder, 32–33; for early birds, 80; free, 76–77; general tips, 669–670; Giverny, 636–638; itineraries, 15–20; maps and navigation tools, 667–668; money-saving tips, 76–77; at night, 80; Paris Museum Pass, 21, 23, 34; planning tips, 668; reservations, 23–24; reservations and advance tickets, 23, 34, 54–55, 668–669; Versailles, 572–595. See also specific sights
Signoret, Simone: 389
SIM cards: 701
Skating: See Ice skating; Rollerblading
Slaves (Michelangelo): 178
Sleep code: 671
Sleeping: 411–440, 670–679; budgeting, 21–22; Chartres, 630–631; with children, 472; Disneyland Paris, 489; Fontainebleau, 605; Giverny, 639; Ile St. Louis, 426–427; key phrases, 676; Luxembourg Garden area, 427–434; Marais, 420–426; money-saving tips, 21–22, 671–672; Montmartre, 434–435; online services, 674–675; at or near airports, 436–438; reservations, 21–22, 23, 678–679; Rue Cler, 412–420; Rue Mouffetard, 433–434; types of accommodations, 672–679; Versailles, 595–596
Smartphones: 24, 699–701; with children, 476–478. See also Apps
Smith&Son Books: 34
Sorbonne: 143
Sound-and-light show: Les Invalides, 266, 413; Versailles, 519–520
Source, The (Ingres): 191–192
Square du Vert-Galant: 154, 449
Square Suzanne Buisson: 405
Square Viviani: 140
Stained Glass Center, International (Chartres): 630
Stein, Gertrude: 141, 364, 380–382, 404, 407
Street safety: 33–34
Subway: See Métro
Surrealism: 371–372. See also Dalí, Salvador
Swimming pools: 486
Tabacs (tobacco stands): 35, 235, 507
Taxes: VAT refunds, 666–667
Taxis: 42–43, 710–711; Auvers, 642; Beauvais Airport, 549; Chantilly, 607; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 546; Chartres, 611; driver lingo, 526; Giverny, 635; Marais, 421; Montmartre, 435; nighttime tour, 522–527; Orly Airport, 548; Rue Cler area, 416; tipping, 666; Versailles, 566
Teenagers in Paris: 479
Telephones: 699–701; with children, 476–478
Temperatures, average monthly: 722
Temple of Love (Versailles): 593
TGV trains: 547, 557, 702, 703, 707; map, 704–705
Thanksgiving: 537
Theater: 519
Théâtre de l’Odéon: 318
Théâtre du Vieux-Colombier: 504
Theft alerts: 26, 30–32, 39–40, 240, 393, 570, 659–660, 665
Thinker, The (Rodin): 256, 262
Tignous (Bernard Verlhac): 383–384
Time zones: 660
Tinguely, Jean: 359
Tipping: 666
Toilets: 35
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier: 96, 334, 526
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de: 197, 206–207, 402, 404, 406, 409
Tour de France: 338–339, 344, 716
Tour Eiffel: See Eiffel Tower
Tour guides: 50–51; Chartres Cathedral, 614; tipping, 666
Tourist information: 30, 659; Auvers, 642–643; Chantilly, 606; Chartres, 611; Fontainebleau, 603; Giverny, 635
Tourist scams: 32–33
Tour Montparnasse: 91–92, 103; eating, 92, 470
Tours: 47–53, 77; Auvers, 642; by bike, 51; by bus, 48, 486, 522; by car, 533; Chartres, 614; with children, 485–486; excursions from Paris, 52–53; Giverny, 634; good value, 77; at night, 522; by pedal cabs, 52; Rick Steves, 712; by Segway, 52; Versailles, 566, 570. See also Boat cruises; Walking tours
Toy store: 315
Train stations: 550–557; map, 551. See also specific stations
Train travel: 550–559, 702–710; general tips, 708–710; key phrases, 554–555; map, 704–705; pickpockets, 30–31; reservations, 707–708, 709; schedules, 702; strikes, 708; tickets, 703, 706, 707, 708; Auvers, 642; Beauvais Airport, 549; Chantilly, 606–607; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 545–546, 549; Chartres, 611; Disneyland Paris, 487–488; Fontainebleau, 603; Giverny, 634–635; Orly Airport, 547–548, 549; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 598; Versailles, 564–566. See also Eurostar; TGV trains
Transilien: 35, 40, 550, 552, 598
Transportation: 35–47, 542–560, 702–711; key phrases, 554–555; map, 704–705; theft alert, 30–31; Auvers, 642; Beauvais Airport, 549; budgeting, 21; cards and passes, 36–37; Chantilly, 606–607; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 544–547; Chartres, 611; Disneyland Paris, 487–488, 547; Fontainebleau, 603; Giverny, 634–635; Luxembourg Garden area, 430–431; Marais, 421; Montmartre, 393, 435; Orly Airport, 547–548; pre-booking, 23; Puces St. Ouen, 508; Rue Cler, 413, 416; theft alert, 39–40; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 598–599; Versailles, 564–566. See also Biking; Buses; Métro; Taxis; Train stations
Travel advisories: 658
Travel smarts: 26–28
Travel tips: 658–662
Trianon Palaces (Versailles): 563, 567, 588–591, 593–595
Trip costs: 21–22
Trocadéro: 103, 250, 478, 526; at night, 520
Tuileries Garden: 87, 296, 449; with children, 482–483
Tuk-tuk tours: 52
Uber: 42, 710; Beauvais Airport, 549; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 546; nighttime tour, 522–527; Orly Airport, 548
Unicorn tapestries: 84, 327–328
Urinal (Duchamp): 371
Utopia: 517
Utrillo, Maurice: 120, 222, 402, 403; biographical sketch, 406
Van Gogh, Vincent: 203–205, 364, 640, 643–645; biographical sketch, 642; grave (Auvers), 643–644; House, 408
Van Gogh’s Bedroom in Arles (Van Gogh): 204–205
Vanves flea market: 510
VAT refunds: 666–667
Vaux-le-Vicomte Château: 538, 598–602
Vedettes de Paris: 49
Vedettes du Pont Neuf: 49
Vegetarians: 687
Venice, train travel: 555
Venus de Milo: 162–163
Venus Room (Versailles): 576–577
Versailles: 14, 563–596; with children, 481; eating, 571–572, 596; map, 568–569; planning tips, 566–567; sights/activities, 572–595; sleeping, 595–596; transportation, 564–566
Versailles Château: 563, 572–584; eating, 571; general info, 62, 567, 570–572; guided tours, 570–571; maps, 573, 589; self-guided tour, 572–584
Versailles Fountains: 571, 586–588
Versailles Gardens: 563, 584–588; general info, 570–572; spectacles, 518–519, 571
Victoire: 504
Victoire de Samothrace: 166–167
Victor Hugo (Rodin): 264
Views, best: 102–103
Vilebrequin: 504
Virgin and Child with St. Anne (da Vinci): 171–172
Visitor information: See Tourist information
Wagner’s (Richard) House: 316
Walking tours: boutique strolls, 493, 496–507; Champs-Elysées, 330–346; Chartres, 626–630; guided, 49–50; historic Paris, 122–155; Left Bank, 310–322; Marais, 347–360; Montmartre, 392–410; at night, 520–522; Père Lachaise Cemetery, 377–391; Rue Cler, 224–237
Walter-Guillaume Collection (Orangerie): 218–223
Warhol, Andy: 374
War Room (Versailles): 579
Water Lilies (Monet): 213, 214–217, 308–309
Water parks (swimming pools): 486
Wheatfield with Crows (van Gogh): 644
Whistler, James Abbott McNeill: 69
WiCE (Women in Continuing Education): 530
Wine and vineyards: 228–229, 442, 529, 530–531, 696–697, 698; Beaujolais Nouveau, 537; Clos Montmartre Vineyard, 404–405; lingo, 697; Louvre Wine Museum, 71–72
Wine Bacchus: 228–229
Winged Human-Headed Bulls: 184
Winged Victory of Samothrace: 166–167
Winter in Paris: 536–541
World War I: 334, 370, 654; Army Museum, 266, 272–275
World War II: 145, 150, 334, 400, 410, 655; Army Museum, 266, 275–285, 289–290; Deportation Memorial, 64, 135–136; Holocaust Memorial, 116–117, 358