INDEX

2012 London Olympic Park: 146–147

A

Abbey Museum (London): 86—87

Air travel: airfare, 4; carry-on restrictions, 12; cheap flights, 951—952; Edinburgh, 704; useful phone numbers, 934

Aira Force Waterfall (Ullswater): 540

Airports: connecting by bus, 216—217; Gatwick, 215; Glasgow International, 813; Heathrow, 211—214; London City, 216; Luton, 216; Prestwick, 813—814; Southend, 216; Stansted, 216; useful phone numbers, 933—934

Alexander Keiller Museum (Avebury): 334

American Museum: 289

Anglican Church: 560

Ann Hathaway’s Cottage (Stratford-upon-Avon): 430—431

Anstruther: 788

Apps for mobile phones: 12

Apsley House (London): 141—142

Architecture: castle architecture, 914—915; church architecture, 913; general information, 912—917

Aros Centre (Portree): 864—865

Ascot Racecourse: 250—251

Assembly Rooms (Bath): 286

Athenaeum (Glasgow): 797

Atlantis Leisure Centre (Oban): 822—823

ATMs: 14. See also money

Auctions: 156. See also shopping

Audio tours: 52

Avebury: 275—277, 307—308, 330—335

Avebury Manor and Garden: 334

Avebury stone circle: 332

Avon Riverfront: 434—435

B

B&Bs: 26—31. See also sleeping

Back Door travel philosophy: 41

Balmoral Castle: 899

Bamburgh Castle: 635—636

Bannockburn Heritage Centre (Stirling): 904

Banqueting Room (London): 92—93

Baps: 32

Barley Hall (York): 568

Bath: activities, 289—290; eating, 299—305; general information, 268—269, 270—274; maps, 272—273, 279, 294—295, 300—301; nightlife, 290—292; planning your time, 269—270; sightseeing, 277—289; sleeping, 292—298; tourist information, 270; tours, 274—277; transportation, 270, 305—306

Bath Abbey: 283—284

Batsford: 412—413

Batsford Arboretum: 413

Beamish Museum: 616—620

Beatles: The Beatles Story (Liverpool), 488—490; bus tours, 481—483; Cavern Quarter sights (Liverpool), 494; Lennon and McCartney homes (Liverpool), 483—488; in Liverpool, 486—487; sights, 116—117; walks, 71

Beatrix Potter Gallery: 546—547

Beaumaris: 665—666

Beddgelert: 677—679

Beer: 37

Ben Nevis: 842

Betws-y-Coed: 675—677

BFI Southbank (London): 168

Bibury: 405—406

Big Ben (London): 90

Bike rental: Caernarfon, 668—669; Cambridge, 256; Chipping Campden, 373; Edinburgh, 705—706; Glastonbury, 315; Oban, 821; Pitlochry, 896; Portree, 864; Windsor, 241—243; York, 554

Bike tours: 75—76

Biking: Cotswolds, 367; Ironbridge Gorge, 463—464; Lake District, 514; London, 66—68; York, 576

Bishop’s Palace (Wells): 326—327

Blaenau Ffestiniog: 682—684

Blenheim Palace: 413—417

Blists Hill Victorian Town (Ironbridge Gorge): 466—467

Blockley: 390

Boats: Bath, 290; Derwentwater (Keswick), 520; Durham, 611; Greenwich, 227; Lake District, 514; Oban, 829; Ullswater, 539. See also cruises; ferries

Bodnant Garden: 663—664

Bookstores: Bath, 271; London, 56—57

Bourton-on-the-Hill: 390

Bourton-on-the-Water: 402—404

Britannia: 744—745

British Golf Museum (St. Andrews): 783

British Library (London): 112—113

British Museum (London): 108—112

Brits, notable: 923—924

Broad Campden: 390

Broadway: 384

Brockhole National Park Visitors Centre: 547—548

Broseley Pipeworks (Ironbridge Gorge): 469

Brush skiing: 743—744

Bubble and Squeak: 32

Buckingham Palace (London): 104—108

Building of Bath Collection: 288—289

Burns, Robert: 696—697, 725

Burrell Collection (Glasgow): 806

Bus tours: Bath, 274—275; Cambridge, 258; Edinburgh, 709—712; Glasgow, 792; Keswick, 519—520; Liverpool, 481—483; London, 68—70; Oban, 821; to Stonehenge, Avebury and the Cotswolds, 275—277; York, 557

Buses: Cambridge, 255, 267; Cotswolds, 363—367; Edinburgh, 704, 766; Fort William, 845; general information, 941—942; Glasgow, 791, 813; Greenwich, 228; Hadrian’s Wall, 624—625; Inverness, 882; Ironbridge Gorge, 463; Isle of Skye, 851—852; Lake District, 510—514; London, 62—63, 64—65, 219—221; Oban, 828—829; Salisbury, 340; South Lake District, 540; Southern Highlands, 816—817; St. Andrews, 769—772; Stratford-upon-Avon, 418; useful phone numbers, 933; Windsor, 240

Business hours: 13

C

Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop (Edinburgh): 731—732

Caernarfon: 667—674

Caernarfon Castle: 669—672

Caerphilly Castle: 355—356

Caledonian Canal: 885

Cambridge: eating, 266—267; general information, 254—255, 256; maps, 257; sightseeing, 258—265; sleeping, 265; tourist information, 255—256; tours, 256—258; transportation, 255, 256, 267

Camera Obscura (Edinburgh): 721—722

Cameron, David: 920—921

Car rental: Bath, 271—274; Conwy, 646; Edinburgh, 708; general information, 942—946; insurance, 944—945; Kyleakin, 868—869; leasing, 945—946; Portree, 864; useful phone numbers, 934; York, 555

Car travel: Cambridge, 256; Cotswolds, 371; Coventry, 454—455; Durham, 600, 616; Edinburgh, 704—705, 766—767; Fort William, 844, 845—846; general information, 946—951; Glasgow, 791, 814; Hadrian’s Wall, 624; Inverness, 882; Ironbridge Gorge, 463, 473—474; Isle of Skye, 851; Keswick, 538—539; Lake District, 510; London, 68; North Wales, 688—689; road signs, 946; Salisbury, 341; South Lake District, 540; Southern Highlands, 816; Stratford-upon-Avon, 419, 422, 440—441; three-week trip by car, 10—11; Warwick, 446; Windsor, 240, 241; York, 551—554

Cardiff: 353—356

Cardiff Castle: 354

Carmel Church (Conwy): 649—650

Cartoon Museum (London): 115—116

Castle architecture: 914—915

Castle Esplanade (Edinburgh): 721

Castlerigg stone circle: 521—522

Cawdor Castle: 892—893

Central London: general information, 50; sightseeing, 83—108

Chalice Well (Glastonbury): 318

Changing of the Guard: Buckingham Palace (London), 69, 106—108; Windsor Castle, 244

Channel crossings: 221—224

Chapel of King Henry VII: tomb, 85

Chastleton House (Moreton-in-Marsh): 411—412

Cheese: 327

Chepstow Castle: 357

Chepstow Museum: 357

Cherhill Horse: 334

Chipping Campden: eating, 382—383; general information, 372—376; maps, 374—375; self-guided walk, 376—380; sleeping, 380—382

Chocolate: York’s Sweet Story: 569

Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Northleach): 405

Church of St. Michael (Stanton): 386—387

Churches: architecture, 913; Carmel Church (Conwy), 649—650; Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Northleach), 405; Church of St. Michael (Stanton), 386—387; concerts, 100, 118, 165—166, 326; Durham’s Cathedral, 605—610; evensong, 166, 167; free for sightseeing, 54; Glasgow Cathedral, 803—804; Holy Trinity Church (York), 566; The Hub (Tolbooth Church, Edinburgh), 723; Liverpool Cathedral, 498—500; Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King (Liverpool), 496—498; Rosslyn Chapel, 745; Southwark Cathedral (London), 138; St. Andrew’s and St. George’s Church (Edinburgh), 740; St. Andrew’s Cathedral, 778—780; St. Giles’ Cathedral (Edinburgh), 726—729; St. James Church (Chipping Campden), 379—380; St. Martin-in-the-Fields (London), 98—100; St. Michael’s Cathedral (Coventry), 455—458; Westminster Cathedral (London), 141; York Minster, 557—564

Churchill Museum (London): 91—92

Churchill War Rooms (London): 91—92

Cider: 327—328

Circus (Bath): 284—285

Cirencester: 406—407

The City: general information, 50; sightseeing, 117—128

City Hall (London): 139

Clava Cairns: 891

Clifford’s Tower (York): 572—573

Climate: 965, 966

Clink Prison Museum: 137

Clothing sizes: 965

Coalbrookdale Museum of Iron and Abraham Darby’s Furnace (Ironbridge Gorge): 467—468

Coalport China Museum (Ironbridge Gorge): 469

Cockburn Street (Edinburgh): 730

Colbost: 867—868

Concessions: 14

Consulates: 933

Conwy: eating, 661—662; general information, 645, 646, 668; King Edward’s castles, 652; maps, 648—649, 658—659; nightlife, 656; self-guided walk, 646—654; sightseeing, 654—656; sleeping, 657—661; tourist information, 645; transportation, 646, 662—663

Conwy Castle: 654

Conwy Mussel Museum: 651—652

Corinium Museum (Cirencester): 406—407

Coronation Chair: 86

Cotswold Falconry Centre (Batsford): 412

Cotswold Farm Park: 404

Cotswold Lavender: 388—389

Cotswolds: Blenheim Palace, 413—417; Chipping Campden, 372—390; general information, 360, 362—363; maps, 364—365; Moreton-in-Marsh, 407—413; planning your time, 361—362; Stow-on-the-Wold, 391—407; tourist information, 363; tours, 275—277; transportation, 363—372

Courtauld Gallery (London): 103—104

Covent Garden (London): 101

Coventry: general information, 442—444, 453—454; sightseeing, 455—461; tourist information, 454; transportation, 454—455, 461

Coventry Transport Museum: 460—461

Credit cards: 15—17

Crofting: 856

Cruises: Bath, 284; Caernarfon, 669; Conwy, 646; Liverpool, 483; London, 76—80, 168; York, 557. See also boats; ferries

Cuilllin Hills: 857

Culloden Battlefield: 886—891

Customs and duty: 19

Cutty Sark (Greenwich): 230

D

Darby Houses (Ironbridge Gorge): 468—469

Deacon Brodie’s Tavern (Edinburgh): 724

Debit cards: 15—17

Derwentwater (Keswick): 520

Discounts: 14, 59—60

Discover Greenwich: 230—231

The Docklands (London): 145—146

Dorset: 351—353

Dove Cottage and Wordsworth Museum (South Lake District): 543—544

Downton Abbey: 253, 923, 957

Duck tours: 74—75

Dunvegan Castle: 858—859

Durham: eating, 614—615; general information, 597—598, 600—601; maps, 599, 602; self-guided walk, 601—605; sightseeing, 605—611; sleeping, 611—613; tourist information, 598—600; transportation, 600, 601, 615—616

Durham Heritage Centre Museum: 610—611

Durham’s Cathedral: 605—610

Dynamic Earth (Edinburgh): 737

E

East End: 129

East London: general information, 50; sightseeing, 129

East Neuk: 787—788

Eating: Avebury, 335; Bath, 299—305; Beddgelert, 679; breakfast, 34—35; budget tips, 32—33; Caernarfon, 674; Cambridge, 266—267; chain restaurants, 33—34; Chipping Campden, 382—383; chocolate, 39; Conwy, 661—662; costs, 5; desserts (sweets or “puddings”), 38—40; Durham, 614—615; Edinburgh, 758—765; Fort William, 844—845; gastropubs, 400—401; general information, 31; Glasgow, 811—812; Glastonbury, 319—320; Glencoe, 841; Greenwich, 238; Hadrian’s Wall, 630—632; Indian food, 38; Inverness, 880—881; Iona, 837—838; Ironbridge Gorge, 471—472; Keswick, 536—538; Kyleakin, 869—870; Liverpool, 503—506; London, 189—211; Moreton-in-Marsh, 410—411; Oban, 827—828; Pitlochry, 900; Portree, 866—867; pubs, 35—38, 198—199; Ruthin, 686—687; Salisbury, 348—349; St. Andrews, 785—787; Stow-on-the-Wold, 398—401; Stratford-upon-Avon, 438—440; tea, 35, 209—211; tipping, 17; Warwick, 452; Wells, 329; Windsor, 252—254; Wye River Valley, 359; York, 585—592

Edinburgh: day trips, 713; eating, 758—765; festival, 746—747; general information, 701—702, 703, 705—708; maps, 702, 710—711, 722—723, 738—739; nightlife, 747—750; planning your time, 702—703; sightseeing, 713—746; sleeping, 750—758; tourist information, 703—704; tours, 709—713; transportation, 704—705, 708—709, 766—767

Edinburgh Castle: 713—720

Edward the Confessor: tomb, 84

Eilean Donan Castle: 861—862

Electric Mountain (Llanberis): 681

Electricity: 13—14

Elizabeth I, Queen: tomb, 84—85

Embassies: 933

Emergencies: 13

Engenuity (Ironbridge Gorge): 468

England: general information, 44—46; map, 45

Entertainment: costs, 8; London, 156—168

Ernest Wilson Memorial Garden (Chipping Campden): 378

Eton College: 249—250

Eton High Street: 250

Evensong: 166, 167. See also individual churches

Exchange rate: 15. See also money

Explorers Garden (Pitlochry): 899

F

Fairfax House (York): 572

Fashion Museum (Bath): 286

Fast Track tickets: 52—53

Ferries: Isle of Skye, 850; Liverpool, 507; North Wales, 688—689. See also boats; cruises

Festivals: Bath, 270—271; Cambridge, 256; Chipping Campden, 373; Conwy, 646; Edinburgh, 705, 746—747; Glastonbury, 314—315; Inverness, 873; London, 56; overview, 961—963; Salisbury, 341; Stratford-upon-Avon, 422; Windsor, 241; York, 554

Fitz Park (Keswick): 521

Fitzwilliam Museum (Cambridge): 263

Forest of Dean: 358—359

Fort William: 815—816, 842—846

Fortnum & Mason (London): 153

Freebies: London: 54

G

Gastropubs: 400—401

Geffrye Museum (London): 129

George Square (Glasgow): 796—797

Georgian House at No. 1 Royal Crescent (Bath): 285—286

Georgian House (Edinburgh): 740—741

Georgian New Town (Edinburgh): 737—740

Gladstone’s Land (Edinburgh): 723—724

Glasgow: eating, 811—812; general information, 789, 790, 791—792; maps, 794—795, 808—809; nightlife, 806—807; planning your time, 789—790; self-guided walk, 793—803; sightseeing, 803—806; sleeping, 807—811; tourist information, 790—791; transportation, 791, 792—793, 813—814

Glasgow Cathedral: 803—804

Glasgow Gallery of Modern Art: 796

Glasgow School of Art: 800—802

Glastonbury: eating, 319—320; general information, 312—313, 314—315; maps, 314; planning your time, 307—308; sightseeing, 315—319; tourist information, 313—314; transportation, 320

Glastonbury Abbey: 315—317

Glastonbury Tor: 318—319

Glencoe: 815—816, 838—842

Glencoe and North Lorn Folk Museum: 839

Goathland: 596

Golden Hinde replica (London): 137—138

Golf: Edinburgh, 744; Keswick, 521; St. Andrews, 772, 781—783

Grassmarket (Edinburgh): 736

Great Britain: current challenges, 919—922; general information, 917—919; history, 905—912; top destinations map, 5

Greenwich: eating, 238; general information, 226, 228; maps, 229; planning your time, 226—227; sightseeing, 230—238; tourist information, 228—230; transportation, 227—228

Grevel House (Chipping Campden): 378

Greyfriars Bobby (Edinburgh): 736

Guidebooks: other guidebooks, 954; updates, 12, 57, 708

H

Hadrian’s Wall: general information, 620—623; history, 621; maps, 622—623; sightseeing, 626—630; sleeping and eating, 630—632; tourist information, 623—624; transportation, 624—626

Hampstead Heath (London): 150—151

Hampton Court Palace (London): 149—150

Harrods (London): 152—153

Harry Potter sights: 958—961

Harvey Nichols (London): 153

Hawkshead Grammar School Museum: 547

Hayes Garden World: 548

Helvellyn: 540

Henry VIII, King: 126—127

Herbert Art Gallery and Museum (Coventry): 458—459

Hidcote Manor Garden: 389—390

Highclere Castle: 253, 957

Highgate Cemetery (London): 151

Hiking: Bath, 289—290; Chipping Campden, 374—376; Cotswolds, 367—371; Edinburgh, 743; Hadrian’s Wall, 626—627; Helvellyn, 540; Moreton-in-Marsh, 408; North Lake District, 522—529; from Stow-on-the-Wold, 395—396; Ullswater, 539

Hill Close Garden (Warwick): 451

Hill Top Farm: 545—546

History: Great Britain, 905—912; Hadrian’s Wall, 621; Iona, 836; Scottish Reformation, 774

HMS Belfast (London): 138—139

Hole of Horcum: 595

Holidays: 961—963

Holy Island: 632—635

Holy Trinity Church (York): 566

Hope Street (Liverpool): 500

Horse Guards (London): 92

Horse racing: Windsor: 250—251

Horse riding: 387, 673

Hostels: 31. See also sleeping

Hotels: 23—26. See also sleeping

Houses of Parliament (London): 87—90

Housesteads Roman Fort: 627—628

The Hub (Tolbooth Church, Edinburgh): 723

Hutton-le-Hole: 595

Hyde Park (London): 142—143

I

Imperial War Museum Duxford: 264—265

Imperial War Museum (London): 132—133

Insurance: 11, 944—945

International Slavery Museum (Liverpool): 490—491

Internet access: Bath, 271; Caernarfon, 668; Chipping Campden, 373; Conwy, 646; Durham, 600; Edinburgh, 705; general information, 934—935; Glasgow, 792; Inverness, 873; Keswick, 518—519; Kyleakin, 868; London, 56; Moreton-in-Marsh, 408; Oban, 820; Portree, 864; Salisbury, 341; St. Andrews, 772; Stow-on-the-Wold, 391; Stratford-upon-Avon, 422; Windsor, 241; York, 554

Inveraray: 829—830

Inverness: eating, 880—881; general information, 872—875; maps, 874—875; sightseeing, 876—877; sleeping, 877—879; tours, 875—876; transportation, 881—882

Inverness Castle: 877

Inverness Museum and Art Gallery: 876—877

Iona: general information, 815, 830—831, 834—835; history, 836; planning your time, 815—816; sightseeing, 835—837; sleeping and eating, 837—838

Iron Bridge: 464—465

Ironbridge Gorge: eating, 471—472; general information, 462—463; maps, 464—465; sightseeing, 464—470; sleeping, 470—471; tourist information, 463; transportation, 463—464, 472—474

Ironbridge Open-Air Museum of Steel Sculpture (Ironbridge Gorge): 469

Isle of Kerrera: 823

Isle of Seil: 823—824

Isle of Skye: general information, 847, 851; Kyleakin, 868—870; maps, 848—849; planning your time, 850; Portree, 862—867; sightseeing, 857—862; transportation, 850—852; Trotternish Peninsula, 852—857

J

Jack the Ripper: walks, 71—72

Jackfield Tile Museum (Ironbridge Gorge): 469

Jane Austen Centre (Bath): 288

Jewel Tower (London): 90

John Knox House (Edinburgh): 730—731

Jorvik Viking Centre (York): 571—572

Jubilee Walkway (London): 129—130, 168

K

Keith Harding’s World of Mechanical Music (Northleach): 405

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Glasgow): 805—806

Kensington Palace (London): 144—145

Keswick: eating, 536—538; general information, 514—519; hiking, 522—529; maps, 516—517; nightlife, 529—530; sightseeing, 520—522; sleeping, 530—536; tours, 519—520; transportation, 538—539

Kew Gardens (London): 148—149

Kiftsgate Court Garden: 390

King Edward’s castles: 652

King’s College Chapel (Cambridge): 259—261

King’s Parade (Cambridge): 259

Kyleakin: 868—870

L

Lake District: general information, 508—509; Keswick and the North Lake District, 514—540; maps, 511, 541; planning your time, 509; South Lake District, 540—548; transportation, 509—514

Lake Windermere: 547—548

Lakes Aquarium: 548

Language: British accents, 927; British-Yankee vocabulary, 969—972; Scottish words, 699; Scouse dialect, 476; Welsh, 639

Laundry: Bath, 271; Caernarfon, 668; Durham, 600; Edinburgh, 705; Inverness, 874—875; Keswick, 519; Kyleakin, 868; Moreton-in-Marsh, 408; Oban, 821; Portree, 864; Salisbury, 341; Stratford-upon-Avon, 422; York, 554

Legoland Windsor: 249

Liberty (London): 153

Lighthouse (Glasgow): 793—795

Lindisfarne: 632—635

Lindisfarne Castle: 635

Liverpool: Beatles, 486—487; eating, 503—506; general information, 475—476, 477, 480—481; maps, 478—479; nightlife, 500—501; planning your time, 476—477; Scouse dialect, 476; sightseeing, 483—500; sleeping, 501—503; tourist information, 477; tours, 481—483; transportation, 477—480, 507

Liverpool Cathedral: 498—500

Llanberis: 679—682

Llandudno: 656

Llangollen: 687—688

Llechwedd Slate-Mine Tour (Blaenau Ffestiniog): 682—683

Local guides: Caernarfon, 669; Cambridge, 258; Edinburgh, 708; general information, 12; Glasgow, 792; London, 73—74; North Wales, 644—645; Wells, 321

Loch Lomond: 829

Loch Ness: 883—886

Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition: 884—885

London: Central London sights, 83—108; The City, 117—128; day trips, 225—267; East London sights, 129; eating, 189—211; entertainment, 156—168; Fast Track tickets, 52—53; general information, 47—48, 50—51, 53—57; Greater London sights, 145—151; London Pass, 53; maps, 48, 51, 74—75, 81, 93, 102—103, 105, 112, 118, 130—131, 140, 158—159, 172—173, 176, 178, 183, 190—191; North London sights, 108—117; planning your time, 48—49; self-guided walk, 80—83; shopping, 152—156; sights open early and late, 99; sightseeing, 83—151; sleeping, 169—189; South Bank sights, 129—139; tea, 209—211; theater, 55; tourist information, 51—53; tours, 55, 68—80; transportation, 53, 57—68, 211—224, 225; views, 120—121; West London sights, 139—145

London Eye: 130—132, 168

London Transport Museum: 101—103

Longitude: 235

Lord Leycester Hospital (Warwick): 451

Lower Slaughter: 401—402

M

Mackintosh, Charles Rennie: 798

Madame Tussaud’s Waxworks (London): 114—115

Mail: 935

The Making of Harry Potter: Warner Bros. Studio Tour (London): 151

Markets: Bath, 284; Durham, 600; Glastonbury, 314; Greenwich, 228; Inverness, 875; Kyleakin, 868; London, 153—156; Oban, 821; Portree, 864; Salisbury, 341; Windsor, 241. See also shopping

Martyrs’ Monument (St. Andrews): 773—774

Mary, Queen of Scots: tomb, 85

Mary Arden’s Farm (Stratford-upon-Avon): 429—430

Mary I, Queen (Bloody Mary): 84—85

Mary King’s Close (Edinburgh): 729

McCaig’s Tower (Oban): 822

Medical help: 13, 56

Menai Suspension Bridge: 666

Mercat Cross (Edinburgh): 729—730

Merchant Adventurers’ Hall (York): 570

Merseyside Maritime Museum (Liverpool): 490—491

Metric system: 964

Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King (Liverpool): 496—498

Mill Garden (Warwick): 451

Millennium Bridge (London): 135

Model Railway Exhibition (Bourton-on-the-Water): 403

Model Village (Bourton-on-the-Water): 403

Money: cash, 14—15; chip and PIN, 16; credit and debit cards, 15—17; customs and duty, 19; discounts, 14; dynamic currency conversion, 16—17; exchange rate, 15; tipping, 17—18; VAT refunds, 18—19; what to bring, 14

The Monument (London): 123

Moors: 592—596

Moors Centre: 596

Moreton-in-Marsh: 407—413

Motor Museum (Bourton-on-the-Water): 403

The Mound (Edinburgh): 742

Mull: general information, 815, 830—834; planning your time, 815—816

Museum of Bath at Work: 287—288

Museum of Childhood (Edinburgh): 730

Museum of Classical Archaeology (Cambridge): 264

Museum of Edinburgh: 732

Museum of Liverpool: 491—493

Museum of London: 122—123

Museum of London Docklands: 146

Museum of the Gorge (Ironbridge Gorge): 466

Museum of the University of St. Andrews (MUSA): 775—776

Museum on the Mound (Edinburgh): 737

Museums: Abbey Museum (London), 86—87; Alexander Keiller Museum (Avebury), 334; American Museum, 289; Beamish Museum, 616—620; Beatrix Potter Gallery, 546—547; Blists Hill Victorian Town (Ironbridge Gorge), 466—467; British Golf Museum (St. Andrews), 783; British Museum (London), 108—112; Broseley Pipeworks (Ironbridge Gorge), 469; Burrell Collection (Glasgow), 806; Cartoon Museum (London), 115—116; Chepstow Museum, 357; Churchill Museum (London), 91—92; Clink Prison Museum, 137; Coalbrookdale Museum of Iron and Abraham Darby’s Furnace (Ironbridge Gorge), 467—468; Coalport China Museum (Ironbridge Gorge), 469; Conwy Mussel Museum, 651—652; Corinium Museum (Cirencester), 406—407; Coventry Transport Museum, 460—461; Darby Houses (Ironbridge Gorge), 468—469; Dove Cottage and Wordsworth Museum (South Lake District), 543—544; Durham Heritage Centre Museum, 610—611; Engenuity (Ironbridge Gorge), 468; Fashion Museum (Bath), 286; Fitzwilliam Museum (Cambridge), 263; free, 54; Geffrye Museum (London), 129; Glasgow Gallery of Modern Art, 796; Glencoe and North Lorn Folk Museum, 839; Hawkshead Grammar School Museum, 547; Herbert Art Gallery and Museum (Coventry), 458—459; Imperial War Museum Duxford, 264—265; Imperial War Museum (London), 132—133; International Slavery Museum (Liverpool), 490—491; Inverness Museum and Art Gallery, 876—877; Ironbridge Gorge museums, 465—470; Ironbridge Open-Air Museum of Steel Sculpture (Ironbridge Gorge), 469; Jackfield Tile Museum (Ironbridge Gorge), 469; Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Glasgow), 805—806; London Transport Museum, 101—103; Madame Tussaud’s Waxworks (London), 114—115; Merseyside Maritime Museum (Liverpool), 490—491; Motor Museum (Bourton-on-the-Water), 403; Museum of Bath at Work, 287—288; Museum of Childhood (Edinburgh), 730; Museum of Classical Archaeology (Cambridge), 264; Museum of Edinburgh, 732; Museum of Liverpool, 491—493; Museum of London, 122—123; Museum of London Docklands, 146; Museum of the Gorge (Ironbridge Gorge), 466; Museum of the University of St. Andrews (MUSA), 775—776; Museum on the Mound (Edinburgh), 737; National Army Museum (London), 141; National Gallery (London), 94—98; National Gallery of Scotland (Edinburgh), 741; National Maritime Museum (Greenwich), 234; National Museum of Scotland (Edinburgh), 734—736; National Portrait Gallery (Edinburgh), 741—742; National Portrait Gallery (London), 98; National Railway Museum (York), 574—576; National Slate Museum (Llanberis), 681; National War Museum Scotland (Edinburgh), 718—720; Natural History Museum (London), 143—144; Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret (London), 138; Pencil Museum (Keswick), 520—521; Pollock’s Toy Museum (London), 116; Queen’s Gallery (Edinburgh), 734; Riverside Museum of Transport and Travel (Glasgow), 804—805; Roman Army Museum (Greenland), 629—630; Royal Air Force Museum London, 150; Royal Air Force (RAF) Museum (Cosford), 470; Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum, 346—347; Science Museum (London), 144; Scottish Fisheries Museum (Anstruther), 788; Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Edinburgh), 746; Shakespeare’s Globe (London), 135—137; Sherlock Holmes Museum (London), 117; Sir John Soane’s Museum (London), 115; Skye Museum of Island Life, 854—855; St. Andrews Museum, 781; St. Andrews’ Preservation Trust Museum and Garden, 780—781; St. Fagans National History Museum (Cardiff), 354—355; St. Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art (Glasgow), 804; Tate Gallery Liverpool, 491; Tate Modern (London), 134—135; Victoria and Albert Museum (London), 143; Victoria Art Gallery (Bath), 284; Walker Art Gallery (Liverpool), 495—496; Wallace Collection (London), 113—114; Wellington Museum (London), 141—142; West Highland Museum (Fort William), 842; Windsor and Royal Borough Museum, 250; World Museum (Liverpool), 496; Writers’ Museum at Lady Stair’s House (Edinburgh), 724; York Castle Museum, 573—574; Yorkshire Museum (York), 567—568

Music: church concerts, 100, 118, 165—166, 326; Conwy, 656; dance, 166; Edinburgh, 748—750; opera, 166; Prom Concerts, 166

N

National Army Museum (London): 141

National Gallery (London): 94—98

National Gallery of Scotland (Edinburgh): 741

National Maritime Museum (Greenwich): 234

National Museum of Scotland (Edinburgh): 734—736

National Portrait Gallery (Edinburgh): 741—742

National Portrait Gallery (London): 98

National Railway Museum (York): 574—576

National Slate Museum (Llanberis): 681

National War Museum Scotland (Edinburgh): 718—720

Natural History Museum (London): 143—144

Neist Point and Lighthouse: 859—860

Nelson Mandela Place (Glasgow): 797

Nessieland Castle Monster Centre: 885—886

New Walk (York): 576

Nightlife: Bath, 290—292; Conwy, 656; Edinburgh, 747—750; Glasgow, 806—807; Keswick, 529—530; Liverpool, 500—501; York, 577

North London: general information, 50; sightseeing, 108—117

North Wales: Blaenau Ffestiniog, 682—684; Caernarfon, 667—674; Conwy, 645—666; general information, 642; Llangollen, 687—688; maps, 643; planning your time, 643—644; Ruthin, 684—687; Snowdonia National Park, 675—682; transportation, 644—645, 688—689

North Yorkshire Moors Railway: 594—595

Northern Highlands: Cawdor Castle, 892—893; Clava Cairns, 891; Culloden Battlefield, 886—891; general information, 871; Inverness, 872—882; Loch Ness, 883—886; planning your time, 871; transportation, 872

Northleach: 404—405

Numbers: 964

Nunney Castle: 328

O

Oban: eating, 827—828; general information, 815, 817—821; maps, 818—819, 832—833; planning your time, 815—816; sightseeing, 821—824; sleeping, 824—826; tours, 821; transportation, 828—829

Oban Lawn Bowling Club: 823

Old Bailey (London): 122

Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret (London): 138

Old Parliament House (Edinburgh): 729

Old Royal Naval College (Greenwich): 231—232

Old Sarum: 349—350

Olympic Park: 146—147

Order of the Garter: 245

Oyster Cards: 58—59

P

Packing checklist: 967

Palace of Holyroodhouse (Edinburgh): 733—734

Palace of Westminster (London): 87—90

Parade Gardens (Bath): 284

Passports: 9—10

Peak season: 9

Pencil Museum (Keswick): 520—521

People’s Story (Edinburgh): 732

Piccadilly Circus (London): 100

Pickering: 593—594

Picts: 873

Piers: 77

Pitlochry: eating, 900; general information, 894—896; self-guided hillwalk, 897—898; sightseeing, 898—899; sleeping, 899; transportation, 900

Planning: costs, 4—8; general information, 3—4, 9—12; sightseeing, 8—9, 19; three-week trip by car, 10—11; when to go, 9

Plas Mawr (Conwy): 654—655

Poets’ Corner: 86

Police Information Center (Edinburgh): 730

Pollock’s Toy Museum (London): 116

Portmeirion: 683—684

Portree: 862—867

Potter, Beatrix: 546; sights, 545—547

Princes Street (Edinburgh): 740

Princes Street Gardens (Edinburgh): 742

Princess Diana Memorial Fountain (London): 143

Provand’s Lordship (Glasgow): 804

Pubs: Bath, 303—304; beer and other beverages, 37—38; general information, 35—36; Liverpool, 500—501; London, 198—199; pub grub, 36—37; York, 577. See also gastropubs

Pulteney Bridge (Bath): 284

Punting: 258, 264

Q

Queen’s Gallery (Edinburgh): 734

Queen’s House (Greenwich): 233—234

R

Radio: 944—945

Resources: maps, 952—954; other guidebooks, 954; recommended books, 954—956; recommended films and television, 956—958; from Rick Steves, 952—954; Rick Steves Audio Europe, 12, 52, 952; web site, 953

Rest-and-Be-Thankful Pass: 829

Riverside Museum of Transport and Travel (Glasgow): 804—805

Robert the Bruce: 719

Roman and medieval baths: 277—282

Roman Army Museum (Greenland): 629—630

Room and board: 5. See also eating; sleeping

Rosedale Abbey: 596

Rosslyn Chapel: 745

Royal Air Force Chapel: 85

Royal Air Force Museum London: 150

Royal Air Force (RAF) Museum (Cosford): 470

Royal Botanic Garden (Edinburgh): 746

Royal Cambrian Academy (Conwy): 650

Royal Crescent (Bath): 284—285

Royal Exchange Square (Glasgow): 796

Royal families: 911

Royal Mews (London): 105—106

Royal Mile (Edinburgh): 720—734

Royal Observatory Greenwich: 236—238

Royal Windsor Racecourse: 250

Ruthin: 684—687

Rydal Mount: 544—545

Ryedale Folk Museum (Hutton-le-Hole): 595

S

Salisbury: eating, 348—349; general information, 339—340, 341—344; maps, 342—343; planning your time, 307—308; sightseeing, 344—347; sleeping, 347—348; tourist information, 340; transportation, 340—341, 349

Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum: 346—347

Salisbury Cathedral: 344—346

Science Museum (London): 144

The Scoop (London): 168

Scotch Whisky Experience (Edinburgh): 722—723

Scotland: general information, 692—700, 712; language, 699; maps, 693

Scott, Walter, Sir: 725; monument, 742—743

Scottish Fisheries Museum (Anstruther): 788

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Edinburgh): 746

Scottish National War Memorial (Edinburgh): 717—718

Scottish Parliament Building (Edinburgh): 732—733

Segontium Roman Fort: 673

Services: tipping for, 18

Shakespeare, William: 426—427; birthplace, 424—428; grave, 428; sights, 423—433

Shakespeare’s Globe (London): 135—137, 164—165

The Shambles (York): 569—570

The Shard (London): 138

Sherlock Holmes Museum (London): 117

Shopping: Bath, 290; clothing sizes, 965; costs, 8; customs and duty, 19; Edinburgh, 744; London, 152—156; VAT refunds, 18—19; York, 576—577

Shoulder season: 9

Sightseeing: Bath, 277—289; Cambridge, 258—265; Cardiff, 354—356; Central London, 83—108; The City (London), 117—128; Conwy, 654—656; costs, 8; Coventry, 455—461; Durham, 605—611; East London, 129; Edinburgh, 713—746; Glasgow, 803—806; Glastonbury, 315—319; Glencoe, 839—840; Greater London, 145—151; Greenwich, 230—238; Hadrian’s Wall, 626—630; Harry Potter sights, 958—961; Inverness, 876—877; Ironbridge Gorge, 464—470; Isle of Skye, 857—862; Keswick, 520—522; Liverpool, 483—500; Loch Ness, 883—886; memberships, 20—21; North London, 108—117; Oban, 821—824; Pitlochry, 898—899; planning, 19; priorities, 8—9; Salisbury, 344—347; at the sights, 19—20; South Bank (London), 129—139; South Lake District, 541—548; Stirling, 901—904; Stratford-upon-Avon, 423—435; voluntary donations, 57; Warwick, 446—451; Wells, 321—328; West London, 139—145; Windsor, 243—251; York, 557—576

Silbury Hill: 332—334

Sir John Soane’s Museum (London): 115

Skiing: 469—470

Skipinnish Ceilidh House (Oban): 822

Skye Bridge: 861

Skye Museum of Island Life: 854—855

Sleeping: Avebury, 335; Bath, 292—298; Beddgelert, 678—679; Caernarfon, 673—674; Cambridge, 265; Chipping Campden, 380—382; Conwy, 657—661; costs, 5; Durham, 611—613; Edinburgh, 750—758; Fort William, 844; general information, 22; Glasgow, 807—811; Glencoe, 840—841; Hadrian’s Wall, 630—632; hostels, 31; hotels, 23—26; Inverness, 877—879; Iona, 837—838; Ironbridge Gorge, 470—471; Keswick, 530—536; Kyleakin, 869; Liverpool, 501—503; London, 169—189; Moreton-in-Marsh, 408—410; Oban, 824—826; Pitlochry, 899; Portree, 865—866; rates and deals, 22—24; reservations, 28—29, 968; Ruthin, 686; Salisbury, 347—348; sleep code, 23; small hotels and B&Bs, 26—31; Snowshill, 389; St. Andrews, 783—785; Stanton, 387; Stow-on-the-Wold, 396—398; Stratford-upon-Avon, 436—438; Warwick, 451—452; Wells, 328—329; Windsor, 251—252; Woodstock, 416—417; Wye River Valley, 358—359; York, 577—584

Sligachan: 867

Snowdonia National Park: 675; Beddgelert, 677—679; Betws-y-Coed, 675—677; Llanberis, 679—682; maps, 676

Snowshill: 387—389

Snowshill Manor: 387—388

Soho (London): 100—101

Somerset Rural Life Museum (Glastonbury): 317—318

South Bank: general information, 51; sightseeing, 129—139; summer evenings’ entertainment, 168

South Lake District: sightseeing, 541—548; transportation, 540

South Wales: 309, 353—359

Southern Highlands: general information, 815; maps, 832—833; planning your time, 815—816; transportation, 816—817

Southwark Cathedral (London): 138

Speakers’ Corner (London): 142—143

St. Andrew Square (Edinburgh): 740

St. Andrews: eating, 785—787; general information, 768—769, 772; golf, 781—783; maps, 770—771; self-guided walk, 772—781; sleeping, 783—785; student life, 776—777; tourist information, 769; transportation, 769—772, 787

St. Andrew’s and St. George’s Church (Edinburgh): 740

St. Andrews’ Castle: 777—778

St. Andrew’s Cathedral: 778—780

St. Andrews Museum: 781

St. Andrews’ Preservation Trust Museum and Garden: 780—781

St. Fagans National History Museum (Cardiff): 354—355

St. Giles’ Cathedral (Edinburgh): 726—729

St. James Church (Chipping Campden): 379—380

St. Martin-in-the-Fields (London): 98—100

St. Mary’s Abbey (York): 565; Abbey Hospital, 564

St. Mary’s College (St. Andrews): 781

St. Mary’s Guildhall (Coventry): 459—460

St. Mary’s Parish Church (Conwy): 655

St. Michael’s Cathedral (Coventry): 455—458

St. Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art (Glasgow): 804

St. Paul’s Cathedral (London): 117—122

St. Salvator’s College (St. Andrews): 774—775

Stanton: 386—387

Stanway House: 384—386

Stevenson, Robert Louis: 725

Stirling: general information, 894, 901; sightseeing, 901—904; transportation, 904

Stirling Castle: 901—903

Stone circles: 331, 521—522. See also Stonehenge

Stonehenge: general information, 335—336; planning your time, 307—308; self-guided tour, 337—339; tours, 275—277; transportation, 336

Stourhead: 351

Stow-on-the-Wold: eating, 398—401; general information, 391; hiking, 395—396; self-guided walk, 392—395; sleeping, 396—398

Stratford-upon-Avon: and Americans, 428; combo-tickets and discounts, 424; eating, 438—440; general information, 418, 419, 422; maps, 420—421; non-Shakespearean sights, 433—435; planning your time, 418—419; Shakespearean sights, 423—433; sleeping, 436—438; tourist information, 419; tours, 423; transportation, 419—422, 440—441

Students: weekend tour packages for, 76

Subway: 792—793

Swimming: Bath, 290; Edinburgh, 744; Ironbridge Gorge, 469—470; Keswick, 521

T

Talisker Distillery (Isle of Skye): 860

Tate Britain (London): 139—140

Tate Gallery Liverpool: 491

Tate Modern (London): 134—135

Taxi tours: 275

Taxis: Chipping Campden, 373; Cotswolds, 371—372; Edinburgh, 704; Glasgow, 792; Hadrian’s Wall, 625; Ironbridge Gorge, 463; Kyleakin, 869; London, 63—66; Stratford-upon-Avon, 422; tipping, 17—18; York, 555

Telephones: calling over the Internet, 931; directory assistance, 933; European calling chart, 928—929; hotel-room phones, 931—932; how to dial, 926—927; mobile phones, 927—931; phone cards, 932; public pay phones, 932; useful phone numbers, 933—934

Television: 922—923

Temperature conversion: 966

Tenement House (Glasgow): 802—803

Thames River: crossing on foot, 135; piers, 77

Theater: Bath, 290—291; Courtyard Theatre (Stratford-upon-Avon), 433; general information, 12; Keswick, 529; London, 55, 156—165; Pitlochry, 898—899; Royal Shakespeare Company (Stratford-upon-Avon), 431—432; Royal Shakespeare Theatre (Stratford-upon-Avon), 432—433; Shakespeare’s Globe (London), 135—137, 164—165; Swan Theatre (Stratford-upon-Avon), 433; ticketing outlets, 160—162; York, 577

Theft: 13, 17, 53

Thermae Bath Spa (Bath): 282—283

Three Graces (Liverpool): 493—494

Time zones: 13

Tintern Abbey: 358

Tipping: 17—18

TIs. See tourist information

Toad in the Hole: 32

Tourist information: Avebury, 330; Bath, 270; Bourton-on-the-Water, 403; Caernarfon, 667—668; Cambridge, 255—256; Cardiff, 353; Chepstow, 356; Chipping Campden, 373; Cirencester, 406; Conwy, 645; Cotswolds, 363; Coventry, 454; Durham, 598—600; Edinburgh, 703—704; Fort William, 842; general information, 925—926; Glasgow, 790—791; Glastonbury, 313—314; Glencoe, 838; Greenwich, 228—230; Hadrian’s Wall, 623—624; Inverness, 872—873; Ironbridge Gorge, 463; Keswick, 518; Liverpool, 477; Llanberis, 680; London, 51—53; Oban, 820; Pitlochry, 896; Portree, 862; Salisbury, 340; St. Andrews, 769; Stow-on-the-Wold, 391; Stratford-upon-Avon, 419; Tintern, 357; Warwick, 444; Wells, 320—321; Windsor, 240—241; York, 551

Tours: Bath, 274—277; Chipping Campden, 373—374; Cotswolds, 372; Durham, 600—601; Edinburgh, 709—713; Inverness, 875—876; Isle of Skye, 852; Keswick, 519—520; Liverpool, 481—483; London, 68—80, 167—168; Oban, 821; Stratford-upon-Avon, 423; York, 555—557

Tower Bridge (London): 128

Tower of London: 123—128

Trafalgar Square (London): 93—94

Train tours: 225

Train travel: buying tickets, 937—941; Cambridge, 255, 256, 267; Coventry, 454; Durham, 600, 615—616; Edinburgh, 704, 766; Eurostar train, 221—223; Ffestiniog Railway, 683; general information, 937; Glasgow, 791, 813; Greenwich, 227—228; Hadrian’s Wall, 625; Inverness, 881—882; Jacobite Steam Train, 843—844; Liverpool, 507; London, 217—219; London day trips, 225; Narrow-Gauge Steam Train, 672; Oban, 828; railpasses, 938—939, 941; Salisbury, 340; sample train journey, 940; Snowdon Mountain Railway, 680—681; Southern Highlands, 816; St. Andrews, 769—772; Stratford-upon-Avon, 418, 419—422; useful phone numbers, 933; Warwick, 446; Windsor, 239—240, 241; York, 551

Transportation: Bath, 270, 305—306; Beddgelert, 679; Caernarfon, 674; Cambridge, 255, 256; car vs. public transportation, 935; Cardiff, 356; channel crossings, 221—224; Conwy, 646, 662—663; costs, 4—5; Cotswolds, 363—372; Coventry, 454—455, 461; discounts, 59—60; Durham, 600, 601, 615—616; Edinburgh, 704—705, 708—709; Fort William, 845—846; Glasgow, 791, 792—793, 813—814; Glastonbury, 320; Glencoe, 841—842; Greenwich, 227—228; Hadrian’s Wall, 624—626; Ironbridge Gorge, 472—474; Isle of Skye, 851—852; Lake District, 509—514; Liverpool, 477—480; Llanberis, 681—682; London, 57—68, 211—224; maps, 936; Moreton-in-Marsh, 411; near Bath, 310—312; North Wales, 644—645, 688—689; Oban, 828—829; Oyster Cards, 58—59; Pitlochry, 900; Salisbury, 340—341, 349; South Lake District, 540; South Wales, 359; Southern Highlands, 816—817; St. Andrews, 769—772; Stirling, 904; Stonehenge, 336; Stratford-upon-Avon, 419—422, 440—441; Travelcards, 59, 60; Warwick, 446, 453; Wells, 330; Windsor, 239—240, 241; York, 551—554, 592

Travel advisories: 933

Travel insurance: 11

Travelcards: 59, 60

Treacle: 32

Trefriwb Woolen Mills: 664—665

Trinity College (Cambridge): 261—263

Trotternish Peninsula: 852—857

Tube: 60—62

Tudor World at the Falstaff Experience (Stratford-upon-Avon): 433—434

U

Uig: 856

Ullswater: 539—540

Upper Slaughter: 402

Urquhart Castle: 886

V

VAT refunds: 18—19

Victoria, Queen: 908—909

Victoria and Albert Museum (London): 143

Victoria Art Gallery (Bath): 284

Victoria Station (London): 141

Views: London, 120—121; Wells, 321

Vindolanda: 628—629

VoIP: 931

W

Wales: general information, 638—641; language, 639. See also North Wales; South Wales

Walker Art Gallery (Liverpool): 495—496

Walking tours: Bath, 274; Cambridge, 256—258; Edinburgh, 709; Inverness, 875—876; Keswick, 519; London, 70—74; York, 555—557

Wallace, William: 716; monument, 903—904

Wallace Collection (London): 113—114

Warwick: eating, 452; general information, 442—444; maps, 445; sightseeing, 446—451; sleeping, 451—452; tourist information, 444; transportation, 446, 453

Warwick Castle: 446—451

Weather: 965, 966

Weights and measures: 964

Wellington Arch (London): 142

Wellington Museum (London): 141—142

Wells: eating, 329; general information, 320—321; map, 322; planning your time, 307—308; sightseeing, 321—328; sleeping, 328—329; transportation, 330

Wells Cathedral: 321—326

West Highland Malt Scotch Whisky Distillery Tours (Oban): 821—822

West Highland Museum (Fort William): 842

West Kennet Long Barrow: 334

West London: general information, 51; sightseeing, 139—145; theater, 162—165

Westminster Abbey (London): 83—87

Westminster Cathedral (London): 141

Whisky: 722—723, 731—732, 737, 749, 821—822, 897—898

White Horse Close (Edinburgh): 732

Wilton House: 350—351

Windsor: eating, 252—254; general information, 239, 241—243; maps, 242; sightseeing, 243—251; sleeping, 251—252; tourist information, 240—241; transportation, 239—240, 241

Windsor and Royal Borough Museum: 250

Windsor Castle: 243—248

Winter: 9, 56

Wordsworth, William: at Dove Cottage, 542; poetry at Dove Cottage, 544; sights, 541—545

World Museum (Liverpool): 496

The World’s End (Edinburgh): 731

Wren Library (Cambridge): 263

Writers’ Museum at Lady Stair’s House (Edinburgh): 724

Wye River Valley: 358—359

Y

York: eating, 585—592; general information, 549—551, 554—555; maps, 552—553; nightlife, 577; North York Moors, 592—596; shopping, 576—577; sightseeing, 557—576; sleeping, 577—584; tourist information, 551; tours, 555—557; transportation, 551—554, 592

York Castle Museum: 573—574

York Minster: 557—564

Yorkshire Museum (York): 567—568