INDEX
A
apron, maker’s 95–101
armholes: altering 47–8
pressing 62
B
bags
calico 67–75
document 127–33
duffel 145–51
flight 135–43
tote 153–9
bamboo 55
bamboo point turner 21
beeswax 21
bias binding 27
binding 27, 84–5
blending darts 45
bodkins 21, 107
bolster cushion 103–7
bust darts 45–6
button cushion 115–19
buttonholes: machining 34
pressing 62
scissors for 16
buttons 26–7
covering 119
sewing on 34
C
calico 52
calico bag 67–75
catch stitch 39
closures 34–6
cloth see fabric
collars 171–2
corduroy 63
cottons 51–3, 60, 63
crepe, wool 50
cushions: bolster 103–7
button 115–19
pillow 109–13
D
darts 29, 45, 48, 61
deep nap fabrics 63
denim 52
document bag 127–33
drawstring cords 151
duffel bag 145–51
dyeing fabric 74
E
ease 33
edge stitching 32–3
equipment, pressing 58–60
eyelets 27
F
fabric 49–55
cutting out 43
fabric layout 41
pressing 63
fastenings 26–7
felted wool 51
fingers 60
finishing 31, 74–5
fisherman’s top 169–73
flight bag 135–43
form 29–30
French curve 45
French seams 31
fuller’s earth 21
G
gabardine 50–1
gathering 30
grader squares 13–14
graphic transfers 93
gussets, in bags 141
H
haberdashery 22–7
hand stitching for soft
furnishings 38–9
handles, bag 73, 132–3, 143, 159
hem gauge 14
hemp 55
hems and hemming 37–38
herringbone stitch 38
hooks and eyes 27
hussif 87–93
I
interfacings 39
ironing boards 58
cover for 81–5
irons 58, 60
L
leather, sewing 96
linen 53, 63
linings, in bags 142–3, 157
loop turners 21
M
machines, sewing 18–20
maker’s apron 95–101
measuring and marking 13–14
mitring corners 124
N
neck facings 33
needle board 60
needles 25–6
machine 19–20
nettles 55
O
oilskin 52–3, 63
organic fabrics 55
overlockers 20, 31–2
P
paper scissors 16
patterns 41–8
altering dress patterns 44–8
pattern markings 41–2
pillow cushion 109–13
pinking shears 14, 17, 32
pins 23–4
pockets: in aprons 99
in bags 149
in hussifs 90–1
pressing 62
in tailored shawls 163–4
pressing 57–63, 77–9, 167
pressing cloths 58
R
recycling fabric 55
rivets 27
run and fell seams 31
S
scissors 14, 16, 43
seam rippers 21
seam sticks 60
seams 30–3
pressing 61, 62
sewing gauge 14
sewing machines 18–20
sewing tools 13–21
shawl, tailored 161–7
shears 16
shopper bag 153–9
silk 54, 63
sink stitching 125
sleeve boards 58, 60
sleeve rolls 58, 77–9
sleeves: pressing 62
set-in 33
slip stitch 38
soft furnishings, hand stitching 38–9
stab stitch 39
straps, bag 132–3, 143
superfine suiting 50
T
tailor’s chalk 14
tailor’s ham 58, 77–9
tailor’s shears 16
tailor’s tacks 43
tape measure 13
thimbles 21
thread 22–3
thread clips 14
threaders 21
throw 121–5
ties 92, 101
toggles 151
toiles 44
toolkits: pressing 58–60
sewing 13–21, 45
tops, fisherman’s 169–73
topstitch 32, 38
tote bag 153–9
transfers, graphic 93
tweed 50
V
velvet 63
W
waistlines, altering 48
wide bow scissors 14
wool 49–51, 63
woollen shawl 161–7
Y
yardsticks 14
Z
zigzag stitch 31
zippers 27, 34–6
in bags 138–9
Much as we would like to take all the credit for this wonderful book, we have been told to tell the truth instead. The Studio kept running, correspondence was answered and most deliveries went out on time – because we had back up:
We would like to thank Amy, Katie, Cheryl and Gemma for all their hard work and patience.
Tom and Eva at UK Grade, Sally Ward and Sue Thompson, Paul Barrow, Karen Parry.
THE SIBLINGS: Stephen, Jacqueline, Ian, Alice, Maggie, Zoe and the might as well be a sister, Sarah.
THE IN-LAWS: Andrew, Bruce, Mark. Naz and Rogers.
Elizabeth Roberts, Dave and Annette, Ewan the Postmaster, Doris and Derek, Rick, Haley, Jaspar, Maud and Otti Field. Barry Morgan.
Sheenagh, Jess, Norma, Sam and Molly.
To Mother Denham for all her years of patient teachings that have led to this book and to Dad for being Dad.
The Field parents RIP. We trust they would be proud.
First published in the United States of America in 2013 by Chronicle Books LLC.