INDEX

A

apron, maker’s 95–101

   armholes: altering 47–8

   pressing 62

B

bags

   calico 67–75

   document 127–33

   duffel 145–51

   flight 135–43

   tote 153–9

bamboo 55

bamboo point turner 21

beeswax 21

bias binding 27

binding 27, 84–5

blending darts 45

bodkins 21, 107

bolster cushion 103–7

bust darts 45–6

button cushion 115–19

buttonholes: machining 34

   pressing 62

   scissors for 16

buttons 26–7

   covering 119

   sewing on 34

C

calico 52

calico bag 67–75

catch stitch 39

closures 34–6

cloth see fabric

collars 171–2

corduroy 63

cottons 51–3, 60, 63

crepe, wool 50

cushions: bolster 103–7

   button 115–19

   pillow 109–13

D

darts 29, 45, 48, 61

deep nap fabrics 63

denim 52

document bag 127–33

drawstring cords 151

duffel bag 145–51

dyeing fabric 74

E

ease 33

edge stitching 32–3

equipment, pressing 58–60

eyelets 27

F

fabric 49–55

   cutting out 43

   fabric layout 41

   pressing 63

fastenings 26–7

felted wool 51

fingers 60

finishing 31, 74–5

fisherman’s top 169–73

flight bag 135–43

form 29–30

French curve 45

French seams 31

fuller’s earth 21

G

gabardine 50–1

gathering 30

grader squares 13–14

graphic transfers 93

gussets, in bags 141

H

haberdashery 22–7

hand stitching for soft

   furnishings 38–9

handles, bag 73, 132–3, 143, 159

hem gauge 14

hemp 55

hems and hemming 37–38

herringbone stitch 38

hooks and eyes 27

hussif 87–93

I

interfacings 39

ironing boards 58

   cover for 81–5

irons 58, 60

L

leather, sewing 96

linen 53, 63

linings, in bags 142–3, 157

loop turners 21

M

machines, sewing 18–20

maker’s apron 95–101

measuring and marking 13–14

mitring corners 124

N

neck facings 33

needle board 60

needles 25–6

   machine 19–20

nettles 55

O

oilskin 52–3, 63

organic fabrics 55

overlockers 20, 31–2

P

paper scissors 16

patterns 41–8

   altering dress patterns 44–8

   pattern markings 41–2

pillow cushion 109–13

pinking shears 14, 17, 32

pins 23–4

pockets: in aprons 99

   in bags 149

   in hussifs 90–1

   pressing 62

   in tailored shawls 163–4

pressing 57–63, 77–9, 167

pressing cloths 58

R

recycling fabric 55

rivets 27

run and fell seams 31

S

scissors 14, 16, 43

seam rippers 21

seam sticks 60

seams 30–3

   pressing 61, 62

sewing gauge 14

sewing machines 18–20

sewing tools 13–21

shawl, tailored 161–7

shears 16

shopper bag 153–9

silk 54, 63

sink stitching 125

sleeve boards 58, 60

sleeve rolls 58, 77–9

sleeves: pressing 62

   set-in 33

slip stitch 38

soft furnishings, hand stitching 38–9

stab stitch 39

straps, bag 132–3, 143

superfine suiting 50

T

tailor’s chalk 14

tailor’s ham 58, 77–9

tailor’s shears 16

tailor’s tacks 43

tape measure 13

thimbles 21

thread 22–3

thread clips 14

threaders 21

throw 121–5

ties 92, 101

toggles 151

toiles 44

toolkits: pressing 58–60

   sewing 13–21, 45

tops, fisherman’s 169–73

topstitch 32, 38

tote bag 153–9

transfers, graphic 93

tweed 50

V

velvet 63

W

waistlines, altering 48

wide bow scissors 14

wool 49–51, 63

woollen shawl 161–7

Y

yardsticks 14

Z

zigzag stitch 31

zippers 27, 34–6

   in bags 138–9

Much as we would like to take all the credit for this wonderful book, we have been told to tell the truth instead. The Studio kept running, correspondence was answered and most deliveries went out on time – because we had back up:

THE BOOK TEAM

We would like to thank Amy, Katie, Cheryl and Gemma for all their hard work and patience.

THE TRADES

Tom and Eva at UK Grade, Sally Ward and Sue Thompson, Paul Barrow, Karen Parry.

THE SUPPORTERS

THE SIBLINGS: Stephen, Jacqueline, Ian, Alice, Maggie, Zoe and the might as well be a sister, Sarah.

THE IN-LAWS: Andrew, Bruce, Mark. Naz and Rogers.

Elizabeth Roberts, Dave and Annette, Ewan the Postmaster, Doris and Derek, Rick, Haley, Jaspar, Maud and Otti Field. Barry Morgan.

THE LABORERS

Sheenagh, Jess, Norma, Sam and Molly.

AND FINALLY

To Mother Denham for all her years of patient teachings that have led to this book and to Dad for being Dad.

The Field parents RIP. We trust they would be proud.

First published in the United States of America in 2013 by Chronicle Books LLC.