Index

A

acids:

in marinades, 41

nonreactive cookware and containers and, 42

Adolph’s, 29

African piri piri chicken, 301–2

afterburner method, 129, 247

airflow, 20, 21, 88

controlling, 21, 78

convection heat and, 3

dampers and, 83, 86, 130–31

smoke sticking to food and, 14–15

stall and, 60

Alabama white sauce, 174–75, 181–82

albumin, 58

alcohol, in marinades, 42

aluminum foil:

oiled, starting stick-prone foods on, 107

Texas crutch and, 60–61

Anchor Bar, Buffalo, N.Y., 302

appetizers and savory snacks:

baba ghanoush, fire-roasted eggplant, 356–57

halibut salad, smoked, 330–31

oysters, smoked, 341

salmon, schmancy hot-smoked, 326–28

salmon mousse canapés, smoked, 329

shrimp, bacon-wrapped stuffed, championship, 344–45

Argentine chimichurri sauce, 189

ash:

cleaning out, 84, 133, 142–43

galvanized can for, 112

asparagus, grilled, 350–52

Augies, Binghamton, N.Y., 289

B

baba ghanoush, fire-roasted eggplant, 356–57

back ribs, beef, 256

back ribs, pork, 203–4

happy mouth yakitori ribs, 210

Backwoods Smoker, 91

bacon:

and onion jam, 194

-wrapped stuffed shrimp, championship, 344–45

Baja fish tacos, 332–33

Baker, Bob, 298

balconies, grill use on, 72, 73, 77

Ball, Sterling, 20, 137

balsamic vinegar, 351

barbecue beans, Boston, 361–62

barbecue sauces, 165, 173–86

Alabama white, 174–75, 181–82

east Carolina mop, 174, 178–79

Hawaiian huli-huli, 175, 183–84

honey as sweetener for, 44

Kansas City (KC) red, 174, 175–77

Kentucky black, 175, 182–83

Lexington dip, 174, 179

marinating in, 41

mustard, South Carolina, 174, 177–78

reheating meat and, 66, 67

safety concerns and, 63, 173

storing, 176

strategies for use of, 63, 173

sweet, caramelization and, 43–44

sweet, Maillard reaction and, 43–44

sweet glazes, 175, 185–86

tartar, 175, 184–85

Texas mop, 174, 179–81

types of, 174–75

bark formation, 8, 59, 60, 64

Maillard reaction and, 43–44, 55–56

basil, in pesto, 189–90

baskets:

fish, 107

grill, 103

basting and spritzing, 15, 16, 44, 61–63

cooking time and, 61

crust formation and, 61

turkey, 309

Bayless, Rick, 186–87

BBQ Guru, 65

beans, Boston barbecue, 361–62

bear paws, 109

beef, 28, 241–65

corned, 259

food temperature guide, 52, 53, 54–55

grades of, 243, 248, 259

see also beef brisket; beef ribs; beef roasts; burgers; steaks

beef, brines, rubs, and sauces for:

big bad beef rub, 166–67

board sauces, 188–89

brine for injection, 161–62

chimichurri, 189

Dalmatian rub, 166

Mrs. O’Leary’s cow crust, 167

Texas mop sauce, 174, 179–81

beef brisket, 258–65

basics, 258–60

burnt ends, 263

grades of, 259

pastrami, close to Katz’s, 263–65

slicing, 262

Texas, 260–61

Texas mop sauce for, 174, 179–81

trimming off fat cap, 44–45

Wozniak method for, 65

beef butter, 255

beef ribs, 256–58

cuts of, 256

short, Brazilian steakhouse style, 257–58

short, Texas style, 257

beef roasts, 247–55

bone-in vs. boneless, 248–49

chateaubriand with compound butter, 254–55

cuts for, 247

great, hallmarks of, 249

prime rib (recipe), 249–51

rib, ordering, 247–48

Santa Maria tri-tip: poor man’s prime rib, 251–53

for those who don’t want medium-rare, 250

beef tenderloin:

breaking down into chateaubriand, 254–55

steak cuts from, 242

beer, in touchdown tailgate brat tub, 279–81

beer can chicken, 296

Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, Decatur, Ala., 301

Binghamton spiedie sandwiches, 289–90

Bishop, John “Big Daddy,” 207

bisquettes, 19

bivalves (clams, oysters, and mussels), 334–41

buying and handling, 334–36

clambake with grilled crostini, 339–40

opening, 336–37

oysters, grilled, with white wine sauce, 340–41

oysters, smoked, 341

purging with cornmeal and water, 338

quick-smoked, 338

blade steaks, or blade chops (country-style ribs), 205, 213

blue cheese dip, 303

blue smoke, 15, 19–21

board sauces, 188–89

boiling temperatures, impact from, 6–8

bones:

impact on cooking, 56–59

juiciness and, 58–59

Bonner, Mychael, 323–24

Boston barbecue beans, 361–62

boundary layer, 14

Bradley Smoker, 19

branzino, in Chef Bonner’s fish fillets with brioni broth, 323–25

brat tub, touchdown tailgate, 279–81

Brazilian steakhouse–style short ribs, 257–58

bread, in simple grilled crostini, 350

breaks (rib tips), 205

brines (recipes), 160–62

basic brinerade, 161

for injection, 161–62

simple Blonder wet brine (6.3% salinity), 160–61

brining, 34–37, 160–62

double-salt jeopardy and, 36

dry, 34, 35, 36, 160, 166

pickling vs. curing vs., 37

sugar in, 37

thickness and time for, 161

wet, 34–36, 37, 160–63

brioni broth, fish fillets with, Chef Bonner’s, 323–25

briquets, charcoal, 21, 124–26, 127, 138

brisket, see beef brisket

brisket, pork (rib tips), 205

broth:

brioni, fish fillets with, Chef Bonner’s, 323–25

smoked bone, 220–21

browning:

basting and spritzing and, 62

brown good, black bad, 44

Maillard reaction and, 43–44

brushes:

scrub and spray, 106

silicone, 108

stainless-steel welder’s wire, 105–6

BTU ratings, 80, 82

Buffalo chicken wings, blasphemy, 302–4

built-in grills or smokers, 95

bullets (vertical charcoal smokers), 87

smoking on, 136–37

burger glop, 188

burgers, 268–74

bacon and onion jam for, 194

cheeseburgers, zen of, 273

choosing meat for, 268–69

cooking on griddle, 272

diner, 272–73

flavoring, 269

food temperature guide, 52, 53, 54

the great American steakhouse steakburger, 270–71

grill marks on, 57

shaping, 269

white stuff oozing out of, 58

burn boxes, 150

burners, of gas grills, 73, 82

sear, 73, 74, 82, 83

side, 73, 79

burnt ends, 263

butane burners, 110

butcher block seasoning, 173

butter, 158

beef, 255

-poached fish fillets, 331–32

Butterball marinade injector, 112

butterflying (spatchcocking):

chicken, 295

leg o’ lamb, 289

turkey, 309

C

cabbage:

classic deli slaw with sour cream and mayo, 364

prepping for slaw, 363

sweet-sour slaw, 362–63

cabinet-style charcoal smokers, 91

Caja China, La, 95

Cajun seasoning, 170

calamari:

choosing and cleaning squid, 335

grilled, ladolemono, 334

calibrating:

charcoal grills, 133

grills or smokers, 115

thermometers, 114–15

Cambro, faux, 50–51

Camp Chef Smoke Vault, 92

campfire cooking, 145–49

accessories for, 146–47

building fire for, 148–49

preparing site for, 146

caramelization, 43–44

carryover cooking, 5–6, 52

cascabel mole, inspired by Chef Rick Bayless, 186–87

cast-iron griddles, 152–53

cast-iron grill grates, 100, 102

cauliflower, grilled, 352–53

caveman steaks, 132

center-cut ribs (aka St. Louis cut, SLC, barbecue cut, Kansas City cut), 204

last-meal ribs, 206–7

60-minute ribs Dreamland style, 207–10

ceramic briquets, 73, 120

ceramic smoker/grills, 87–88, 143

smoking on, 137–38

Chang, David, 221

Char-Broil, 19

charcoal, 74

briquets vs. lump, 21, 124–27, 138

flavor molecules produced by, 72

charcoal grates, 143

charcoal grills, 83–84, 124–33

access to charcoal in, 84

adding more charcoal to, 131–32, 135

buying, 83–84

calibrating, 133

cleanup after grilling on, 133

controlling temperature on, 83, 130–32

getting really high heat on, 132

grates of, 84

portable, 85

prices of, 75

pros and cons of, 72–73

smoking on, 134–35

starting fire in, 128–30

two-zone cooking in, 83–84

using, 124–33

Chargon, 105

chateaubriand with compound butter, 254–55

cheeseburgers, zen of, 273

cherry port sauce, grilled duck breasts in, 315–17

Chicago dog, 276

chicken, 293–306

beer can, 296

breaking down bird into parts, 294

breasts, pounding for even cooking, 30–31

breasts vs. legs and thighs, 27–28

brining, 34–37

cooking temperature for, 297

cooking until juices run clear, 54

food temperature guide, 52, 53, 54, 55, 297

halving, 294

indirect cooking, 9

marinating, 42

reverse searing, 48, 49, 294, 297

roasting whole, 295

rotisserie, 119–20, 295

skinless, 297

smoking, 297

spatchcocking (butterflying), 295

stock, 297

vertical wire roasting frames for, 295

wing, anatomy of, 304

chicken (recipes):

in ‘bama white sauce, Big Bob Gibson’s, 301

Cornell, 295–96

Hawaiian huli-huli teriyaki, 299

piri piri, 301–2

pulled, 300–301

rotisserie, Provençal, 304–6

Simon & Garfunkel, 297–98

Sweet Georgia Brown smoked yard bird, 300

wings, blasphemy Buffalo, 302–4

chicken, brines, rubs, and sauces for:

Alabama white sauce, 174–75, 181–82

brine for injection, 161–62

butcher block seasoning, 173

Cajun seasoning, 170

D.C. mumbo sauce, 195

Hawaiian huli-huli sauce, 175, 183–84

Simon & Garfunkel rub, 168

chile(s):

chipotle-lime corn on the cob, 354–55

chocolate barbecue sauce, 185

chili powder, 158

chimichurri sauce, 189

chimney starters, 21, 72, 128–29

chipotle-lime corn on the cob, 354–55

chocolate chile barbecue sauce, 185

chuck-wagon cooking, 153

cilantro, in chimichurri sauce, 189

Cincinnati cheese Coney, 276

citrus salt and pepper, 170–71

clambake with grilled crostini, 339–40

clams:

buying and handling, 334–36

clambake with grilled crostini, 339–40

opening, 336–37

quick-smoked, 338

cleaning:

ease of, as factor in buying grill, 78

exterior of grill or smoker, 142

fighting mold and, 143

gas vs. charcoal grills, 73

grill grates, 105–6

interior of cooking chamber, 20, 73, 120, 133, 142–44

coffee, in cowboy java rub, 171

Coleman InstaStart, 110

collagen, 26–27, 28, 32

color of meat:

doneness and, 55, 99

as guide to safety, 55

Columbia gold: a South Carolina mustard sauce, 177–78

competition barbecue cooking, 68–69

large-capacity, commercial, and trailer-mounted rigs for, 93

conduction heat, 2–3

Coney Island hot dog, 276

connective tissue, 26–27, 28, 56

convection grills, 79–80, 82

convection heat, 3

Cook-Air, 85

cooking ahead, 64–66

cooking diary, 114

cooking surface, size of, 76–77

cooking temperature:

controlling, on gas grill, 115–16

cooking time and, 49

when to cook hot and fast, 46–47

when to cook low and slow, 47–48

see also thermometers

cooking time, 46–50

basting and spritzing and, 61

factors influencing, 49–50

smoke flavor and, 13

when to cook hot and fast, 46–47

when to cook low and slow, 47–48

corned beef, 259

Cornell chicken, 295–96

Cornish game hens:

Alabama white sauce for, 181–82

marinated, 306–7

corn on the cob:

chipotle-lime, 354–55

grilled, ultimate, 353–54

costal cartilages (rib tips), 205

coulis, roasted red pepper and garlic, 190–91

country-style ribs (aka country ribs, blade steaks, blade chops), 205, 213

covers for grills, 76, 110

cowboy cooking, 152

cowboy java rub, 171

creosote, 13, 14, 20

crostini, simple grilled, 350

Cuisinart Grilluminate Universal LED Grill Light, 111

curing, brining vs. pickling vs., 37

curing salts, 17, 33

D

Dalmatian rub, 166

dampers, 83, 86, 130–31

D.C. mumbo sauce, 195

deflector plates, 79, 88, 139

dehydrating fruits and vegetables, 68

denaturing, 35

Detroit Coney dog, 276

diner burgers, 272–74

dips:

baba ghanoush, fire-roasted eggplant, 356–57

blue cheese, 303

distance from radiant energy source, 4

Dolly’s lamb rub, 169

doneness:

digital thermometer and, 96, 97

food temperature guide and, 51–55

meat color and, 55, 99

poking meat and, 98

Dreamland-style 60-minute ribs, 207–10

drip pans, 86, 141–42

drippings of juices and fat, 12

drum smokers, 87

dry brining, 34, 35, 36, 160, 166

duck, 28, 315–17

breasts, grilled, in cherry port sauce, 315–17

food temperature guide, 53, 54–55

tips on cooking, 316

E

E. coli, 54

east Carolina mop sauce, 174, 178–79

eggplant baba ghanoush, fire-roasted, 356–57

eggs, 158

egg-shaped cookers, 87–88

smoking on, 137–38

see also kamados

elastin, 27

electric grills, 81

extension cords for, 96

smoke and, 12

electric smokers, 94

extension cords for, 96

electric starters, 129

Engelbrecht, 84

“enhanced” meats, 36, 42–43, 308

enzyme tenderizing, 29–30

exhaust dampers, 130–31

extension cords, 96

F

fat in meat, 27, 32

trimming fat cap, 44–46

faux Cambro, 50–51

fire pit cooking, 145–49

accessories for, 146–47

building fire for, 148–49

building pit for, 146, 231–34

fire rings, 146

fish, 28, 320–33

brining, 35

buying, 320–21

cleaning walls of smoker after cooking, 324

cold-smoking, 327

cooking, 321

food temperature guide, 53, 55

frozen, 320

grill accessories for, 107

planking, 153–54

white stuff oozing out of, 58

whole, filleting, 322–23

fish (recipes):

fillets, butter-poached, 331–32

fillets with brioni broth, Chef Bonner’s, 323–25

halibut, smoked, salad, 330–31

salmon, schmancy hot-smoked, 326–28

salmon, smoked, mousse canapés, 329

salmon, smoked, quiche, 330

tacos, Baja, 332–33

trout, smoked, Florida mullet style, 325–26

fish, brines, rubs, and sauces for:

Cajun seasoning, 170

citrus salt and pepper, 170–71

D.C. mumbo sauce, 195

Greek ladolemono, 192

Marietta’s fish rub, 169–70

tartar sauce, 175, 184–85

fish baskets, 107

flameouts, in gas grills, 74, 78

flashback, 138

Flay, Bobby, 269

flipping meat, 60

basting immediately after, 62–63

flour, 158

food temperature guide, 51–55

color and, 55

disagreement of chefs and USDA, 52, 54–55

food thermometers, 48, 49, 55, 97, 98, 149

where to stick in meat, 116

where to stick in poultry, 54

freezing leftovers, 66

Frogmat, 103

fruits:

grilling, 67, 68

smoking and dehydrating, 68

fuse method, 129, 132, 136

G

garlic:

powder, smoked, 172

and roasted red pepper coulis, 190–91

garlic presses, 113

garlic salt, 158

gas grills, 12, 79–83, 115–24

BTU ratings of, 80, 82

with built-in heat indicators, 77

burners of, 73, 82

buying, 79–83

calibrating, 115–17

cleaning, 73, 120

convection, 79–80, 82

ignition system of, 82, 117, 123–24

infrared, 80, 82

liquid propane or natural gas, 80–81

modifying gas flow to get low heat on, 122

portable, 85

prices of, 75–76

pros and cons of, 73–74

rotisserie and spit grilling on, 119–20

rotisserie kits for, 73, 83

with sear burner, 73, 74, 82, 83

setting up for two-zone cooking, 117–18

with side burners, 73, 79

smoking on, 135

smoking with wood chips in, 74

thermostats for, 65

troubleshooting, 120–24

using, 115–24

gas smokers, 91–92

smoking on, 138

geese, 28

glazes, 175

Grand Marnier, 185–86

Japanese happy mouth yakitori sauce, 191–92

gloves:

silicone, 108

suede fire-resistant, 108, 138

goat roasters, 95

grain, slicing meat across, 31

Grand Marnier:

glaze, 185–86

–glazed ham steaks, 219

grates:

charcoal, 143

see also grill grates

grease pans, 143

Greek ladolemono for seafood, 192

Green Mountain, 93–94

green sauces:

board sauces, 188–89

chimichurri, 189

griddling, 151–55

on cast aluminum, 153

on cast iron, 152–53

on salt blocks, 154–55

on stainless steel, 153

tips for success, 151

on wood planks, 153–54

Grill Gauge, 122

GrillGrates, 100–101, 107

grill grates, 74, 78, 84, 100–103

cast-aluminum hard-anodized, 100–101

cast-iron, 100, 102

grill grates, continued

chrome or nickel-plated wire, 100, 101

cleaning, 105–6

collapsible, for campfires, 147

Hovergrill, 109

keeping food from sticking to, 104

movable, 84

oiling, 104

size of cooking surface and, 76–77

stainless steel, 100, 105

Teflon and nonstick, 102–3

tempered steel, 102

thick enameled bars and thick stainless-steel bars, 102

thin porcelain enamel-coated, 101

grill marks, 57, 100

grill pads, 111

grills, 82–85

adapting for smoking, 85

assembly of, 79

built-in, 95

calibrating, 115

charcoal vs. gas, 72–75

cleaning exterior of, 142

cleaning interior of cooking chamber, 20, 73, 120, 133

combo, with one side for gas and the other for charcoal, 75

electric, 12, 81, 96

end-of-season discounts and, 76

footprint of, 77

light for, 111

log-burning, 84–85

new, seasoning, 115

portable, 85

prices of, 75–76, 93

protective covers for, 76, 110

size of cooking surface in, 76–77

what to look for in, 75–79

wood grilling on, 149

work surfaces and storage shelves of, 78–79

see also charcoal grills; gas grills; smokers

grill toppers, 103, 107

Grillworks, 84

ground meats, 267–81

food temperature guide, 52, 53, 54, 55

see also burgers; hot dogs; sausages

H

halibut, smoked, salad, 330–31

ham:

food temperature guide, 53, 55

steaks, Grand Marnier–glazed, 219

wet-cured, 217–19

handheld smokers, 94–95

happy mouth yakitori:

ribs, 210

sauce, Japanese, 191–92

Hawaiian huli-huli:

sauce, 175, 183–84

teriyaki chicken, 299

turkey breast teriyaki, 314–15

heat:

conduction, 2–3

convection, 3

infrared (IR) radiant, 3–4

moving within meat, 5

radiant, 3

temperature vs., 4

heat diffusers, 79–80

heat shadow, 64

herbs, 163–64

beef butter, 255

board sauces, 188–89

fresh vs. dried, 163, 164

smoking with, 23

substitutions, 164

see also rubs and blends of herbs and spices

hibachis, 85

hot dogs, 275–76

food temperature guide, 53, 55

regional, 276

hot sauce, classic Buffalo, 303

hotspots, checking for, 117

Hovergrill, 109

hovering grills, 147

huli-huli, Hawaiian:

sauce, 175, 183–84

teriyaki chicken, 299

turkey breast teriyaki, 314–15

humidity:

in cooker, 15

cooking time and, 50

stall and, 60

hypodermics, meat-injector, 39

I

Iacovelli, Augustine, 289

igniting gas grills, 82, 117, 123–24

indirect cooking, 8–9, 21

number and positioning of gas burners and, 73, 82

size of cooking surface and, 77

see also two-zone cooking

infrared grills, 80–81, 82

infrared gun thermometers, 97, 151, 154

infrared radiant heat, 3–4

ingredients, as specified in recipes, 158

injection, 38–40

brine recipes for, 161–62

gizmos for, 39

ingredients for, 40

lubing turkey breasts, 162–63

instant-read thermometers, 97

intake dampers, 130

Italian-inspired recipes:

better sausage sandwich, 277–79

Binghamton spiedie sandwiches, 289–90

grilled marinara sauce, 193–94

grilled polenta, 360–61

pesto, 189–90

suckling porchetta, 236–39

J

Jaccard tenderizers, 30

jam, bacon and onion, 194

Japanese-inspired recipes:

happy mouth yakitori ribs, 210

happy mouth yakitori sauce, 191–92

juiciness of meat, 32

bone and, 58–59

salt and, 34–35

K

Kamado Joe, 88

kamados, 4, 15, 87–88

accessories for, 79, 88

smoking on, 137–38

two-zone cooking and, 84

Kansas City Barbecue Society cooking contests, 258

Kansas city red sauce, 174

KC classic, 175–77

Katz’s Delicatessen, New York City, 263

Keller, Thomas, 42

Kentucky black sauce, 175, 182–83

Kermit’s second-favorite pork chops, 210–11

Kingsford:

charcoal, 124–26, 127, 138

wood briquets, 19

Kobe beef, 243

Komodo Kamado, 88

“kosher” poultry, 36, 308

kosher salt, 33, 34, 36, 37, 112

L

ladolemono:

grilled calamari, 334

for seafood, Greek, 192

lamb, 283–91

Binghamton spiedie sandwiches, 289–90

food temperature guide, 53, 54–55

Kentucky black sauce for, 175, 182–83

leg o’, 287–89

leg o’, choosing, 288

leg of, trimming off fat cap, 44–45

loin chops, marinated, 286–87

lollipops, herbed, 285–86

rack of, wood-grilled, 284

rub, Dolly’s, 169

sunlite Kentucky mutton, 291

lamb roasters, 95

Lamsonsharp fish tongs, 107

Lang, Adam Perry, 188

Lang Smoker, 91

lava rocks, 73, 120

leftovers, freezing and reheating, 66–67

lemon, in Greek ladolemono for seafood, 192

Lexington dip, the west Carolina barbecue sauce, 174, 179

lids:

essential for cooking, 82–83

opening, cooking temperature and, 62

tightness of fit in charcoal vs. gas grills, 74, 78

when to use, 9

lights, for grill, 111

liquid propane, see propane

lobster, 345–47

choosing and preparing, 345–46

food temperature guide, 53

grilled, Greg’s, 346–47

log-burning grills, 84–85

logs, 12, 16–18

campfire and fire pit cooking with, 145–49

smoking with, 144–45

smoking with wood only, 149–50

loin ribs, or loin back ribs, see back ribs, pork

Looftlighter, 129

López-Alt, J. Kenji, 60

lump charcoal, 21, 124, 126–27, 138

M

Maillard reaction, 43–44

how to get perfect Maillard sear, 55–56

MAK:

pellet smokers, 140

rib rack, 110

Marietta’s fish rub, 169–70

marinade injectors, 112

marinades, 40–43, 44

for Cornish game hens, 306–7

gashing food before applying, 40

industrial, 42–43

for lamb, 286–87

making, 41–42

penetration of, 41

steaks and, 243

vacuum marinators and, 42

marinara sauce, grilled, 193–94

marrow, 56

Mata, Antonio, 45, 58

Maverick ET-732, 97

mayonnaise, coating fish with, 107

McGee, Harold, 60

meat, 26–32

buying, 28–29

juiciness of, 32, 34–35

makeup of, 26–27

slow-twitch vs. fast-twitch muscles in, 27–28

temperature of, before cooking, 29

tenderness of, 29–31, 35

see also specific meats

meat mallets, 30

Memphis dust, meathead’s, 167–68

mesquite, 20

Middle Eastern fire-roasted eggplant baba ghanoush, 356–57

milk, 158

Minion method, 131, 136

mise en place, 159

Mrs. O’Leary’s cow crust, 167

Mr. Bar-B-Q Mesh Roasting Pan, 103

mold, fighting, 143

mole, cascabel, inspired by Chef Rick Bayless, 186–87

Momofuku-inspired ramen bowl, 221–22

Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, Owensboro, Ky., 291

mops, 61, 62

mop sauces:

east Carolina, 174, 178–79

Texas, 174, 179–81

Mo’s Smoking Pouch, 111, 135

Motz, George, 272

mouse, smoked salmon, canapés, 329

mullet, smoked, 325

multiple hunks of meat, cooking at same time, 63–64

mumbo sauce, D.C., 195

muscles, 32

cells of, 26

slow-twitch vs. fast-twitch, 27–28

mussels:

buying and handling, 334–36

quick-smoked, 338

mustard sauce, South Carolina, 174, 177–78

mutton:

Kentucky black sauce for, 175, 182–83

sunlite Kentucky, 291

Myhrvold, Nathan, 59, 60

myoglobin, 17, 27, 28, 54, 58, 99

myowater, 27

N

natural gas, 72, 80–81

nitrites and nitrates, 17, 55

nonreactive containers and cookware, 42

nonstick grill grates, 102–3

noodles, in Momofuku-inspired ramen bowl, 221–22

note taking, 114

O

offset charcoal smokers, 64, 89–91

cleaning, 143

oiling grill grates, 104

onion:

and bacon jam, 194

powder, smoked, 172

Opie’s Barbecue, Spicewood, Tex., 85

Owensboro, Ky., mutton in, 291

OXO Good Grips:

digital kitchen scale, 112

poultry shears, 113

tongs, 109

oysters:

buying and handling, 334–36

grilled, with white wine sauce, 340–41

opening, 337

quick-smoked, 338

smoked, 341

P

pans:

cast-iron, 102

color of, browning and, 306

see also griddling

paprika, 158

parafin cubes, 128

Parajecki, Joe, 343

Parrish, David, 88

parsley, in chimichurri sauce, 189

pastrami:

close to Katz’s, 263–65

steaming, 265

pellets, 16, 18–19, 21, 75, 139–40

pellet smoker/grills, 12, 69, 72, 86, 93–94

cleaning, 143–44

extension cords for, 96

reverse sear on, 48

smoking on, 138–40

pellet smoker/grills, continued

stall shortened in, 60

thermostats in, 65, 93, 139

pepper(s) (bell):

red and green, in better Italian sausage sandwich, 277–79

roasted red, and garlic coulis, 190–91

pesto, 189–90

-crusted pork loin roast, 215

pickling, brining vs. curing vs., 37

pickling salt, 33

pig, whole, see suckling (pig); whole hog pig pickin’

pig roasters, 95

piri piri chicken, 301–2

pit, see fire pit cooking

Pit Barrel Cooker, 87

polenta, grilled, 360–61

porchetta, suckling, 236–39

pork, 197–239

brining, 34–37, 161–62

butts, Wozniak method for, 65

chops, stuffing, 211

chops, types of, 213

food temperature guide, 52, 53, 55

heritage, 28

pink, trichinosis risk and, 52

ribs, cooking ahead, 65–66

shoulder, trimming off fat cap, 44–45

see also bacon; ham; sausage(s)

pork (recipes):

chops, Kermit’s second-favorite, 210–11

loin roast, pesto-crusted, 215

loin roast, stuffed, 216–17

Momofuku-inspired ramen bowl, 221–22

pulled, perfect, 198–201

ribs, last-meal, 206–7

ribs, 60-minute, Dreamland style, 207–10

ribs, yakitori, happy mouth, 210

smoked bone broth, 220–21

suckling pig: small enough for your grill, 234–35

suckling porchetta, 236–39

tenderloin, sweet and sour, 212–14

tenderloin, with cowboy java rub, 212

pork, brines, rubs, and sauces for:

brine for injection, 161–62

butcher block seasoning, 173

Cajun seasoning, 170

east Carolina mop sauce, 174, 178–79

Lexington dip, 174, 179

Memphis dust, 167–68

Simon & Garfunkel rub, 168

South Carolina mustard sauce, 174, 177–78

pork ribs, 202–10

different cuts of, 203–5

how to skin and trim, 208

last-meal, 206–7

60-minute, Dreamland style, 207–10

texture of, 203

yakitori, happy mouth, 210

portable grills, 85

port cherry sauce, grilled duck breasts in, 315–17

potato(es):

baked, are best on the grill, 358–59

baked, reverse searing, 48, 49

canoes, really loaded, 202

condiments for, 358

roasted red pepper and garlic coulis for, 190–91

smoked, salad, 357

twice-baked, 359–60

poultry, 293–317

Cornish game hens, marinated, 306–7

smoking, 297

see also chicken; duck; turkey

powder coating, durability of, 78

preparation times, in recipes, 158–59

prime rib, 247–51

bone-in vs. boneless, 248–49

indirect cooking and, 9

ordering, 247–48

for those who don’t want medium-rare, 250

trimming off fat cap, 44–45

prime rib (recipe), 249–51

Primo Oval, 88

produce, as specified in recipes, 158

propane, 80

in extreme weather, 123

propane grills, 72, 74, 76, 80–81

propane smokers, 91–92

propane tanks, how to tell when low, 122

propane torches, 130

Provençal rotisserie chicken, 304–6

pulled chicken, 300–301

pulled pork, perfect, 198–201

leftover, 201

pumice blocks, 106

Q

quiche, smoked salmon, 330

R

radiant heat, 3

distance from source of, 4

infrared (IR), 3–4

ramen bowl, Momofuku-inspired, 221–22

Red Dragon Torch, 130

refrigerator thermometers, 97

reheating leftovers, 66–67

resting meat after cooking, 7

reverse sear, 48–49, 294

on ceramic smoker/grillers, 88

ribeye steaks, 242

big thick steakhouse steaks, 244–46

rib holders, 110, 138

rib roasts, 247–53

bone-in vs. boneless, 248–49

indirect cooking and, 9

ordering, 247–48

prime rib (recipe), 249–51

for those who don’t want medium-rare, 250

trimming off fat cap, 44–45

rib tips (aka brisket, costal cartilages, breaks), 205

roasts:

dry brining, 36

food temperature guide, 53, 54–55

V-shaped racks and, 252

see also beef roasts

Rodgers, Judy, 36

romaine salad, grilled, 355

rotisserie chicken, 119–20, 295

Provençal, 304–6

rotisserie kits, 72

for gas grills, 73, 83

rubs and blends of herbs and spices, 37–38, 43

applying well in advance, 39

big bad beef rub, 166–67

brining and, 36

butcher block seasoning, 173

Cajun seasoning, 170

citrus salt and pepper, 170–71

cowboy java rub, 171

Dalmatian rub, 166

Dolly’s lamb rub, 169

keeping salt out of, 36, 165

Marietta’s fish rub, 169–70

massaging into surface, 38, 165

Memphis dust, meathead’s, 167–68

Mrs. O’Leary’s cow crust, 167

science of, 164–66

Simon & Garfunkel rub, 168

smoked garlic powder or onion powder, 172

sweet, savory, and spicy flavors in, 165

S

safety concerns:

basting with sauce and, 63, 173

charcoal vs. gas grills and, 72–73, 74

food temperature guide and, 51–55

marinades and, 42

what to look for in grill and, 78

salads:

halibut, smoked, 330–31

potato, smoked, 357

romaine, grilled, 355

slaw, classic deli, with sour cream and mayo, 364

slaw, sweet-sour, 362–63

salmon:

hot-smoked, schmancy, 326–28

planking, 153–54

smoked, mousse canapés, 329

smoked, quiche, 330

white stuff oozing out of, 58

salt, 32–37, 158

blocks, griddling on, 154–55

brining and, 34–37

dry brining and, 34, 35, 36, 160

as flavor amplifier, 35

juiciness of meat and, 34–35

kept out of rubs, 36, 165

kosher, 33, 34, 36, 37, 112

in marinades, 41

measuring, 34

tenderness and, 35

varieties of, 32–33

sandwiches:

sausage, better Italian, 277–79

spiedie, Binghamton, 289–90

Santa Maria grills, 84

Santa Maria tri-tip: poor man’s prime rib, 251–53

sauces, 173–95

bacon and onion jam, 194

board, 188–89

burger glop, 188

cascabel mole, inspired by Chef Rick Bayless, 186–87

chimichurri, 189

chocolate chile, 185

hot, classic Buffalo, 303

ladolemono for seafood, Greek, 192

marinara, grilled, 193–94

mumbo, D.C., 195

pesto, 189–90

roasted red pepper and garlic coulis, 190–91

yakitori, Japanese happy mouth, 191–92

see also barbecue sauces

sausage(s), 277–81

brat tub, touchdown tailgate, 279–81

food temperature guide, 53, 54

sandwich, better Italian, 277–79

see also hot dogs

savory flavors, 165

sawdust, 19

scales, digital kitchen, 112

Schutz, Bob, 251

scrub and spray brushes, 106

seafood, 319–47

butcher block seasoning for, 173

food temperature guide, 53

Greek ladolemono for, 192

see also bivalves (clams, oysters, and mussels); fish; lobster; shrimp

sear burners, gas grills with, 73, 74, 82, 83

searing meat:

juices and, 32

reverse sear, 48–49, 88, 294

sea salt, 33

seasoned salt, 33

seasoning:

cast-iron griddles, 153

new grill or smoker, 115

thick, inside smoker or grill, 144

shears, kitchen, 113

short ribs, 256–58

Brazilian steakhouse style, 257–58

Texas style, 257

shrimp, 341–45

anatomy of, 342

bacon-wrapped stuffed, championship, 344–45

brining, 342

choosing and prepping, 341–43

D.C. mumbo sauce for, 195

grilled, Joe’s fireproof, 343–44

side burners, of gas grills, 73, 79

side ribs, see spareribs

sides, 349–64

asparagus, grilled, 350–52

beans, Boston barbecue, 361–62

cauliflower, grilled, 352–53

corn on the cob, chipotle-lime, 354–55

corn on the cob, ultimate grilled, 353–54

crostini, simple grilled, 350

eggplant baba ghanoush, fire-roasted, 356–57

polenta, grilled, 360–61

potato canoes, really loaded, 202

potatoes, baked, are best on the grill, 358–59

potatoes, twice-baked, 359–60

potato salad, smoked, 357

romaine salad, grilled, 355

slaw, classic deli, with sour cream and mayo, 364

slaw, sweet-sour, 362–63

silicone brushes, 108

silicone gloves, 108

Simon & Garfunkel chicken, 297–98

Simon & Garfunkel rub, 168

60-minute ribs Dreamland style, 207–10

slaws:

classic deli, with sour cream and mayo, 364

prepping cabbage for, 363

sweet-sour, 362–63

Slow ‘n Sear, 88–89

smoke, 11–23

blue, 15, 19–21

creosote and, 13, 14, 20

flavoring meat with, 12–13

herbs and, 23

small, hot fire best for, 20–21

sticking to food, 14–15, 16, 17, 61, 62

visible, myth about, 15

smoke bombs, 23

smoked bone broth, 220–21

smoke ring, 15, 17, 62

smokers, 75, 85–95

built-in, 95

cabinet-style charcoal, 91

calibrating, 115

cleaning, 20, 142–44

different fuels for heat and smoke in, 85

electric, 94, 96

handheld, 94–95

kamado, egg, and other ceramic smoker/grills, 15, 79, 84, 87–88, 137–38, 143–44

large-capacity, commercial, and trailer-mounted rigs, 93

new, seasoning, 115

offset charcoal, 64, 89–91, 143

pellet, see pellet smoker/grills

pig, goat, and lamb roasters, 95

prices of, 86

Slow ‘n Sear, 88–89

vertical charcoal, 64, 87, 136–37

what to look for in, 86

smoking, 134–45

ability to contol airflow for, 78

on charcoal grill, 134–35

on gas grill, 135

on gas smoker, 138

on kamado, egg, or ceramic smoker, 137–38

with logs, 144–45

on pellet smoker/grill, 138–40

water pans in, 140–42

on Weber Smokey Mountain, 136–37

wood bursting into flames during, 135

with wood only, 149–50

Smoking Gun, 94–95

Smoque BBQ, Chicago, 262

soaking wood chips and chunks, 22, 135

Soo, Harry, 127, 136

Sorkin, Barry, 262

soups, see broth

South Carolina mustard sauce, 174

Columbia gold, 177–78

spareribs (aka spares, side ribs), 204–5

60-minute ribs Dreamland style, 207–10

spark generators, 123

spatchcocking, see butterflying

spatulas, stiff metal, 109

spices, 163–64

substitutions, 164

see also rubs and blends of herbs and spices

spicy flavors, 165

spiedie sandwiches, Binghamton, 289–90

spit grilling, 119–20

over campfire, 147

spritzing, see basting and spritzing

squid:

anatomy of, 335

choosing and cleaning, 335

grilled calamari ladolemono, 334

stainless steel, 89, 142

stainless-steel griddles, 153

stainless-steel grill grates, 100, 105

stainless-steel scrub pads, 106

stainless-steel welder’s wire brush, 105–6

stall, 8, 59–61

benefits of, 60

Texas crutch and, 60–61

steaks, 242–49

afterburner method for, 247

big thick steakhouse, 244–46

butcher block seasoning for, 173

caveman, 132

cowboy java rub for, 171

cuts of, 242

dry brining, 36, 243

fat cap on, 45

food temperature guide, 52, 53

grades of, 243

grill marks on, 57

matching cooking temperature and thickness, 243–44

reverse sear for, 48–49, 243–44, 246

seasoning, 243

sirloin cap (coulotte), trimming off fat cap, 45–46

skinny, 246–47

steam, formation of, 6–8

stock, chicken, 297

Storm, Hannah, 74

strip loin, 247, 248

strip steaks, 242, 248

suckling (pig):

porchetta, 236–39

small enough for your grill, 234–35

trimmings, making good use of, 239

suede fire-resistant gloves, 108, 138

sugar, 44, 158

in brine, 37

in rubs, 165

sweet and sour pork tenderloin, 212–14

sweet foods, preventing from burning, 9

Sweet Georgia Brown smoked yard bird, 300

sweet-sour slaw, 362–63

T

tacos, fish, Baja, 332–33

tartar sauce, 175, 184–85

Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish, St. Petersburg, Fla., 325

temperature:

benchmarks, 53

gauging by hand, 97

heat vs., 4

of meat before cooking, 29

stall phenomenon and, 8, 59–61

see also cooking temperature; food temperature guide

tenderness of meat, 29–31

enzyme tenderizing and, 29–30

mechanical tenderizing and, 30

salt and, 35

slicing across grain and, 31

teriyaki:

chicken, Hawaiian huli-huli, 299

sauce, Hawaiian huli-huli, 175, 183–84

turkey breast, 314–15

Texas beef brisket, 260–61

Texas crutch, 60–61

Texas mop sauce, 174, 179–81

Texas-style short ribs, 257

Thermapen, 48, 97

thermometers, 21, 76, 96–100

calibrating, 114–15

cleaning, 144

drilling holes for cables of, 136–37

dual probe, 96–97

food, 48, 49, 54, 55, 97, 98, 116, 149

infrared gun, 97, 151, 154

oven/grill/smoker, 49, 77, 96–97, 116, 117, 118, 131, 133, 136–37, 159

pop-up, turkeys with, 309

refrigerator, 97

remote read, 99

shopping checklist for, 98–100

thermophoresis, 15

ThermoPop, 97

thermostats:

for gas grills, 65

in pellet smoker/grills, 65, 93, 139

thickness of meat, cooking time and, 50

time, see cooking time

tinder, 148

tomatoes:

grilled marinara sauce, 193–94

smoking and drying, 68

tongs:

fish, 107

OXO Good Grips, 109

trichinosis, 52

tripods, campfire, 147

tri-tip, 247

Santa Maria (poor man’s prime rib), 251–53

trout, smoked, Florida mullet style, 325–26

Trudeau Garlic Press, 113

tuna, food temperature guide for, 53

turkey, 307–15

“basted,” “self-basted,” or “enhanced,” 308

breasts, lubing, 162–63

breasts vs. legs and thighs, 27–28

breast teriyaki, 314–15

brine for injection, 161–62

brining, 34–37, 309

butterflying (spatchcocking), 309

carryover cooking and, 309

carving, 312–13

choosing, 308

cooking breast side down, 314

cooking perfectly, 309

cooking temperature for, 297, 309

faux Cambro for, 50–51

food temperature guide, 53, 54

fresh, 308

“kosher,” 308

marinating, 42

salted at plant, 165

Simon & Garfunkel rub for, 168

smoked, ultimate, 307–11

smoking, 8–9

stuffing, 309

tenting with foil, 309

trussing, 309

twice-baked potatoes, 359–60

two-zone setup, 8

calibrating grill for, 115–17

for campfire or fire pit cooking, 148

on ceramic smoker/grill, 88

on charcoal grill, 73, 83–84

on gas grill, 117–18

number and positioning of gas burners and, 73, 82

size of cooking surface and, 77

for smoking, 134–35

U

Udvett, Ryan, 189

Ugly Drum Smokers, 87

USDA Choice, 243, 248, 259

USDA food temperature guide, 51–55

USDA Prime, 243, 248, 259

V

vacuum marinators, 42

Vargas, Theresa, 195

vegetables:

grilling, 67–68

Maillard reaction and, 43

smoking and dehydrating, 68

see also sides

venison:

brine for injection, 161–62

food temperature guide, 53, 54–55

vertical charcoal smokers, 64, 87

smoking on, 136–37

vertical wire roasting frames, 295

vinegar, balsamic, 351

vitreous enamal, durability of, 78

V-shaped racks, 252

W

wagyu, 243

warming cooker, 21

warranties, 79

water pans:

on gas grill, 117–18

in smoking, 140–42

weather:

cooking affected by, 125, 128

cooking time and, 50

extreme, propane in, 123

Weber Firestarter (parafin cubes), 128

Weber Genesis gas grill, 76

Weber kettle grills, 4, 75, 78

opening lid of, 62

parabolic shape of, 134

size of cooking surface in, 76–77

Slow ‘n Sear for, 88–89

smoking on, 78, 134–35

Weber Smokey Mountain, 64, 87, 131

fighting mold in, 143

smoking on, 136–37

temperature gradients in, 136

Weber specialty woods, 19

Weber Stainless Steel Grill Pan, 103

West Virginia slaw dog, 276

wet brining, see brining

wheels, of grills, 78

whole animals:

roasting, 150

see also suckling (pig); turkey

whole hog pig pickin’, 222–34

approximate timetable for cooking a 75-pounder, 229

building pit for, 231–34

cooking process, 228–30

cooking time for, 223

firing up pit for, 225

injecting and rubbing cavity, 227–28

ordering hog for, 224–25

prepping hog for, 226–27

sauce for, 230

serving, 230

serving to guests, 230

special tools for, 223

wind, cooking affected by, 125

Wintzell’s Oyster House, Mobile, Ala., 340

wood:

aged and dried vs. wet, 16, 20

amount of, 21

best tinder for, 148

bisquettes, 19

blocks, 19

bursting into flame, 135

buying, 16–19

in campfire and fire pit cooking, 145–49

chips, 18, 21, 22, 23

chunks, 18, 21, 22, 23

grilling with, on grills, 149

hardwoods vs. softwoods, 16

logs, 12, 16–18, 144–49

matching to meat, 20

mild vs. strong, 19

pellets, 16, 18–19, 21, 75

sawdust, 19

smoking only with, 149–50

smoldering devices for, 111, 135

soaking, 22, 135

specialty, 19

troubleshooting, 23

wood planks, griddling on, 153–54

Wozniak, Mike, 65, 127

Y

yakitori:

ribs, happy mouth, 210

sauce, Japanese happy mouth, 191–92