Page numbers in boldface refer to the main discussion on the subject. Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations and tables.
A
Abolition of the Slave Trade Act (Britain, 1807), 546
aburi mochi (toasted cakes), 388
Accomplisht Cook, The (May)
on pippin and pear tarts, 729
acetic acid fermentation, 253–
54
aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena, 308
Adams, Thomas, Gum Company, 316
adulteration, 4
of sweets in nineteenth-century Britain, 753
Adventures in Good Eating (Hines), 332
Adventures of Harry Franco, The (Briggs), 500
Adventures of Paddington Bear, The, 136
advertisingBird’s Custard Powder, 201
of children’s stories as sweets, 135
Chocolat Guerin-Boutron collectors’ card, 168
for chocolate trade in Boston Newsletter, 4
for cocoa by F. Korff, 165
for dairy products in Sweden, 194
for Gala Peter milk chocolate, 524
linking sweets and gender, 297
of Scottish shortbread, 611
Thurbers’ Fruit Preserves and Jellies, 283
advertising, American, 4–8post–Civil War to 1920s, 4–
6
1920 to World War II, 6–
7
breakfast cereals, 75,
76
Halloween advertising by Curtiss Candy, 322
agave, Native American use, 469–
70
aguamiel (honey water), 8,
443
Alexander, Christopher, 214
Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, The, 527
Alkermes, confection of, 9
All Butter Peach Coffee Cake, 593
All Butter Pound Cake, 593
Almanach des gourmands, L’ (Grimod de la Reynière), 102,
143
almonds. See also marzipan
extract or essence, 245–
46
in medieval Baghdad sweets, 42
in Portuguese desserts, 552
America Revisited (Sala), 44
American Baking Competition, The (television program), 170
American Bee Journal, 338
American Cake Decorating, 562
American Century Cookbook: The Most Popular Recipes of the 20th Century (Anderson), 759
American colonies, 756–
57
importation of cacao beans, 145
American Cookery (Simmons), 756,
757
pumpkin pie recipes, 534–
35
American Crystal Sugar Company, 681
American Culinary Federation, 512
American Danish, dough for, 392
American Dictionary of the English Language, An, 729
American Domestic Cookery, The (Rundell), 785
American Machine Co., 351
American Molasses Company, 459
American Pastry, The (Whitehead), 14
American Sugar Cane League, 681
American Sugar Holdings, 732
American Sugar Refining Company, 10–12,
685.
See also Domino;
Sugar Trust
Imperial Sugar Company and, 355
reorganization of Sugar Refineries Company as, 699
Amstar Corporation, 11,
699
ancient world, 12–14
culinary history and cookbooks, 32
flatbread with cheese and honey, 310
Greco-Roman
fruits in sweet syrups, 101
influence on ancient Germany, 298
Paris under Roman Empire, 503
reference to sweets in literature, 408
Middle Eastern sweets, 446
preservation of fruit in honey, 278,
282
use of honey for healing, 339
Anderson, Alexander P., 75
Angelus Marshmallows, 431
anthropomorphic and zoomorphic sweets, 17–20,
209
Antiquitates Culinarie (Warner), 743
Anti-Slavery Society, 546
Antonellis, Domenic M., 472
ants, chocolate-covered, 359
aphrodisiacs, 20–22
sugared vegetables as, 765
sweetmeat offered to the Buddha, 81–
82
Apicius
recipes for fruits in sweet syrups, 101,
282
apothecariesas first confectioners, 172
makers of hard candy, 107,
327
sugarcoated nuts and seeds, 179
Appetit-Lexikon (Habs and Rosner)definition of dumplings, 230
apple(s)
desserts during Rosh Hashanah, 378
as filling for strudel, 659
in Rosh Hashanah meal, 579
apple roly-poly pudding, 477
Arab world
influence on Spanish sweets, 639
sweetmeats and sweet pastries in Istanbul, 362
use of flowers in confectionery, 100–
101
Archives of Modern Medicine, 339
Argentina honey production, 340
Aroma (Patterson and Aftel), 24
arroz con leche (rice pudding), 639
arroz doce (rice pudding), 553
art, 24–29.
See also sugar paintingdepiction of Cockaigne, 251
on fruit as pleasure-giver, 278
sugar-lift etching technique, 670
use of chewing gum in, 129
Art de bien traiter, L’ (L. S. R.), 710
Art de fabriquer le sucre de betteraves (Dubrunfaut), 675
Art de la cuisine française au 19ème siècle, L’ (Carême), 114
Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy, The (Glasse), 353,
741,
755,
756
Art of Cooking (Heracleides), 32
Art of Cooking, The (Pépin), 543
Art of Distillation, The (French), 403
Arte de repostería (de la Mata), 178
AR-TIK Systems, Inc., 206
Artistic Cake Decorating from A to Z, 561
Artusi, Pellegrinoon budino alla ricotta, 125
aṣābiʿ Zainab (Zainab’s fingers), 448
asabiʾ il-ʿarous (bride’s fingers), 395
Association of the German Beet Sugar Industry, 675
“Aunt Babette’s” Cookbook: Foreign and Domestic Receipts for the Household (Bloch), 325
Australia and New Zealand, 33–35
World War II sugar rationing, 683
Ayurveda
on properties of sugar, 356–
57
azo dyes (coal tar dyes), 263
azuki beans, 39–40.
See also bean paste sweetsin Chinese food traditions, 139
as filling of mooncakes, 461
in sticky rice sweets, 656
in traditional Japanese confectionery, 371
azzime dolci (sweet matzah), 767–
68
B
babbelaars/torverballen (bull’s eyes), 474
Bach, Johann Sebastian, 89–
90
Backen macht Freude (Oetker), 65
Baierische Köchin in Böhmen, Die (The Bavarian Cook in Bohemia) (Neudecker), 441
Bakers’ Helper (journal), 561,
562
baker’s special sugar, 664
Bakery and Confectioner’s Journal, The, 562
baking equipment. See also pans
Baking with Julia (television series, Child), 170
“balls of joy” (“buns of bliss”), 82
Bamberger Kochbuch (Klietsch and Siebell), 213
Banglar Khabar (Ray), 580
Banoffi (banoffee) pie, 656,
755
Barnaby Rudge: A Tale of the Riots of Eighty (Dickens), 224
Barricini chocolate company, 411
barrigas de fraile (friar’s bellies), 18
barrigas de freira (nun’s belly), 297,
552,
553
Baskin, Burton “Burt,” 50,
51
Bastian-Blessing Company, 626
Bâtiment des recettes (Building of Recipes) (Nostradamus), 485
bavarois, 55,
271as cold chilled dessert, 218
Bazooka Candy Brands, 728
bean-to-bar chocolate companies, 146
Becker, Marion Rombauer, 579
beet sugarcompetition for sugarcane, 539,
541
economic policies and, 399
Havemeyer and refining of, 328
Beet Sugar Handbook, The (Asadi), 679
beignets, 275
Louisiana state dessert, 654
Berkshire Hathaway Inc., 207
Bertoni, Moisés Santiago, 655
Berwick Baking Company, 786
Betty Crocker’s Hostess Cookbook, 200
Betty Crocker’s Picture Cook Book, 131
Bhattacharya, Nandalal, 399
Bible
Old Testament
Song of Solomon on love and sweetness, 605,
616
“Big Rock Candy Mountain” (song), 250–
51
Bird, Wright and Co., 123
birthdays
celebrated on New Year’s Day in China, 142
for children in Greece, 309
Dolly Varden cake at, 225
biscuits, twice baked, 658
biscuits à la cuillère, 270
Bistro Cooking (Wells), 197
Bitter Almonds (Grammatico), 645
bizcochito (biscochito), 638,
655
Black Man Holding Watermelon (Weems), 572,
572
Black Man’s Lament or How to Make Sugar, The (Opie), 137
boiling points of sugar defined by Carême, 114
bonbonnières (drageoirs), 69,
156
Bonne cuisine, La (Saint-Ange), 587
Bonne cuisine française, La (Dumont), 587
Bonomo Turkish Taffy, 728
Book of Cakes (Maclaren), 561–
62
Book of Ceremonies, The (Işın), 705
Book of Ices, The (Marshall), 428
Book of Traditional Puddings (National Trust), 564
Booke of Cookery (Washington), 173
Booke of Sweetmeats (Washington), 173,
261,
262
Borden’s malted milk, 455
Boston Cooking School, standardization and, 436
Boston Cooking School Cook Book, The (Farmer), 45,
252angel food cake recipe, 14
distribution in Canada, 98
molasses-based recipe for brownies, 78,
477,
621
recipes using Baker’s chocolate, 146
Boston Cooking School Magazine, The, 287,
621–
22
Boston Cream Pie, 69–70,
196,
396as Massachusetts official dessert, 654
Boston Molasses Disaster, 70,
70–71
brand names, advertising and, 4–
5
Brazil, 71–72
use of sugarcane ethanol fuel, 59
brazo de gitano/reina/venus, 18,
646
Breadmaking (Chrysippus of Tuana), 32
Breakfast, Luncheon and Tea (Harland), 786
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 451
Brioche, La (Chardin), 25
British Baker, The (journal), 562
British Food series (Parr), 28
British Sugar Corporation, 731
Brunsli/bruns de Bâle, 722
Buch von guter speise, Das, 225
Buckeye Cookery (Wilcox), 10,
167
Buddhism, 81–83,
82influence on Korean food, 385
introduction of tenshin in monastic diet in Japan, 371–
72
reference to sweets in early literature, 408
Bulgaria, names for gingerbread in, 305
Bulletin of the Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas, 748
Burghley, William Cecil, Lord, 48
Bush Tucker Party Ltd., 360
butter, 83–84
cookies in Scandinavia, 598
key ingredient in sablé, 587
C
cacao farming
chocolate making in countries of, 146,
147
Cacao Livelihoods Program, 316
café(s), 88–91
in New York City gardens, 480
caggiunitte (calzonetti), 368
“Cake, The” (Maupassant), 409
cake and confectionery stands, 93
Cake Central (website), 562
Cake Craft & Decoration, 562
cake table in Scandinavia, 596,
597
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts: A Manual for Housewives, Simple and Up-to-Date (King), 191
California Culinary Academy, 512
calories, sweet tastes associated with, 492
Calumet Baking Company, 561
camas, Native American use of, 470
Campbell Soup Company, 306
Campos-Pons, María Magdalena, 27
Canadian Cookbook (Pattinson), 98
Canary Islands sugar production, 695
candy (candies), 103–5.
See also confectionery
consumption in Sweden, 772
as ideological tool in Soviet Union, 585
oldest in original form, 123
in sub-Saharan Africa, 660
candy makers guilds, 313–
14
Cannameliste français, Le (Gilliers), 173,
178,
301
on stages of sugar syrup, 652
Canning, Franklin V., 130
Canon of Medicine (Avicenna), 439–
40
capirotada (sopa) (bread pudding), 336,
638,
707
Capitalism and Slavery (Williams), 541
Caramelle de Cristallo (Bernardi), 26
CARE parcels and sweet foods, 299
Carême, Marie-Antoine (Antonin), 36,
113,
113–14,
174,
504–
5
critical of service à la russe, 213
and evolution of confectionery, 192
first celebrity pastry chef, 216,
511
Caribbean. See also individual countriesAmerican Sugar Refining Company and plantations in, 699
Cassel’s New Universal Cookery Book, 708
Catholicismcakes and sweets in Asia, 555
Cato the Elder
recipe for placenta, 12,
539
celebration breads, 73–
74
celebrations
wheat berry dishes for, 784
Center for Science in the Public Interest, 626,
661,
681
100 Ricette de Cucina Veneziana, 767
Chamberlain, Samuel and Narcissa, 197
Chardin, Jean-Baptiste-Siméon, 26
Charlemagne’s Tablecloth: A Piquant History of Feasting (Fletcher), 742
Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (Dahl), 136
charlotte aux pommes, 122
charlotte russe (charlotte à la parisienne), 122,
294–
95,
481
Chattanooga Baking Company, 462
Che hot sen that tranh, 636
cheese
fresh, 123–24
creole cream cheese in New Orleans, 479
as filling for baklava, 46
in Greek Easter sweets, 310
chemical leaveners, 126–27in the United States, 757
Chewing Gum (Redclift), 130
Chewing Tzu, The Rumination Book (Lorenz), 129
Children’s Advertising Review Unit (CAU), 7
chilled chiffon pies, 535
China, 138–41
in Asia Pacific confectionery market, 234
street vendor sugar sculpture, 693
sweets
at border with Laos and Burma, 636
reference in early literature, 408
use of malt syrup and maltose in confections, 419
Chocolat Guerin-Boutron, 168
Chocolate (Tarasov-Rodionov), 585
chocolate, post-Columbian, 144–47,
174alkalization process/dutching, 165,
763
artisanal chocolate makers, 153
in Asian Pacific confectionery market, 233,
234
child labor in industry, 132
fashions inspired by, 595
as filling to rolled wafers, 775
production
in the American West, 782
in the United Kingdom, 754
chocolate chip cookie, 229first appearance in New England, 477
official Massachusetts cookie, 655
Chocolate Room (Ruscha), 28
Chocolate War, The (Cormier), 137
chremslach (krimsel), 378,
506
Christmas, 162–64
confections as decoration for trees, 163
Linzer Torte as cake for, 405
Pennsylvania Dutch food, 520
puto bumbong in the Philippines, 530
traditional food for Christmas Eve, 254
treize desserts de Noël, 254
Christmas Carol, A (Dickens), 409
Christoforo di Messisbugo, 211
Chrysippus of Tyana, 32,
293
cinder toffee (honeycomb toffee), 737–
38
Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digbie Kt. Opened, The (Digby), 435
cobblers, 279,
535in Pacific Northwest, 496
peach cobbler as Texas official cobbler, 654
Cocinero mexicano, El, 444
cocoa, 164–66certification of fair trade cacao beans, 316
coconut milk and cream, 166
Code Noir (New Orleans), 478
Codrington, Christopher, 674
coffee
in the United States, 758
Coffee Cantata (Bach), 89–
90
Collection of English Words not Generally Used, A (Ray), 748
Colmenero, Antonio, 22,
144
Comercializadora Santos Imperial, 355
Community Bake Shops, 593
Complete Confectioner, The, 179
Complete Confectioner, The (Nutt), 785
Conditorei des Orients (Unger), 363
Confectioner and Baker (journal), 562
Confectioner’s Handbook, The (Skuse), 113,
414,
738
Confectioners’ Journal, 562on commercial ice cream, 348
on creator of angel food cake, 14
confectioners’ shops, 770
confectionerydessicated coconut in, 166
in the United Kingdom, 753–
54
Confectionery & Baking Trade, 562
Confectionery Critiques, 561
Confederate Receipt Book, 743
Confiseur moderne, Le, 102
confiture de vieux garçon (fruits de vieux garçon), 273,
285
Confiturier de la Cour (de Lune), 177
Confiturier françois, Le (La Varenne), 102
Consommations de Paris, Les, 589
Constantinus Africanus, 671
consumption taxes on sweets, 400
Continental Baking, 6,
341
conversation lozenge, 414,
471
Conway, Sir Edward Viscount, 10
Cook and Housewife’s Manual, The (Dods), 610–
11
cookbooks
created by manufacturers of new products, 98
use by American corporations, 757
Cooking with the Master Chefs (television series, Child), 170
Cooks and Confectioners Dictionary (Nott), 196,
240
Cook’s Oracle, The (Kitchiner), 287
Cordon Bleu, Le (Paris), 512
Cordon Bleu Cookbook (Lucas), 197
cornas addition to chocolate drinks, 150,
152
basis of Southwestern sweets and beverages, 638
Native American use as a source of sugar, 468–
69
Corn Products Refining Corporation (CPRC), 188
“Cornucopiae” (Fennor), 340
Country Housewife and Lady’s Director, The (Bradley), 102,
125
Country Housewife’s Family Companion, The (Ellis), 226
Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, 170
Cracker Jack, 192–94,
450investigation of child labor at, 132
Credenziere di buon gusto, Il (Corrado), 365
crème à la Moscovite, 221
Cricket Lick-It Suckers, 359
Croatia
rolled poppy seed cake, 550
Croft, Wilbur & Company, 528
crostata di visciole e ricotta, 367
CubaDance of the Millions, 11
sugar industry, 697,
698
American interests in, 548,
641
Spanish-American War and, 641
Cuccia di Santa Lucia, 784
Cucina Veneziana, La (Santin), 737
Cuisine of Hungary, The (Lang), 80
Cuisiner moderne (La Chapelle), 628
Cuisinier françois, Le (La Varenne), 173
national identity of, 212
Cuisinier impérial (Viard), 122
Cuisinier méridional, Le, 102
Cuisinier parisien, Le (Carême), 114
Cuisinier royal, Le (Fouret), 729
Cuisinier royal et bourgeois, Le (Massialot)
Cuisinière bourgeoise, La (Menon), 274,
652
Cuisinière canadienne, La, 97
Culinary Institute of America (CIA), 512
cultural practicesmaintenance of foods for commemorative events, 334
culture, popular
references to animal crackers, 15–
16
sugary sitophilia and, 614
cup cakes, 199Fannie Farmer recipe, 621
Cupcake Wars (television program), 171
Curious Treatise of the Nature of Chocolate, A (Colmenero), 22
Curtiss Candy Company, 322,
648
custard, 201–3advertisement for Bird’s Custard Powder, 201
Cyclopaedia (Chamber), 212–
13
D
Dance of the Millions, 11
Das, Krishna Chandra, 482,
580
dates, 208–9
in medieval Baghdad sweets, 42
de la Mata, Juan, 17,
178
De magnibus urbis Mediolani (Bonvesin da la Riva), 313
De re rustica (Columella), 463
de Sahagún, Bernardino, 763
De’ secreti del reuerendo donno Alessio Piemontese (Ruscelli), 689
Decretum (Buchard, Bishop of Worms), 21
Deipnosophists (Learned Banqueters) (Athenaeus), 32on cheese-enriched cakes, 124
reference to doughnut-like pastry, 225
Delightes for Ladies (Plat), 177–
78on candying and preserving, 542,
753
Prince-bisket recipe, 646
on use of real flowers, 100
Della Porta, Giambattista, 345–
46
Desfontaines, Pierre, 416
dessert(s), 211–14after lunch in Spain, 640
artificial sweeteners and, 30
chocolate as flavoring in, 145,
146
first dessert-only restaurant, 505
French origin of term, 268
pastries in Portugal, 552
Dessert de Gaufrettes, Le (Baughin), 775,
776
devil’s dozen as baker’s dozen, 46
Díaz del Castillo, Bernal, 21,
151
Dictionary (Johnson), 755
Dictionary of International Food and Cooking Terms (Waldo), 236
Dictionnaire de la langue françoise ancienne et moderne (Richelet), 710
Dictionnaire de l’ameublement et de la décoration (Havard), 240
Dictionnaire domestique portatif (Roux), 504
Dictionnaire universel, 212
Dictionnaire universel de cuisine pratique (Favre), 293,
628
Diet of Diseases, The (Hart), 672
Disney’s Adventures of the Gummi Bears (television program), 318
Dīwān luʾāt at-turk (Maḥmūd of Kashgar), 256
Dobos and 19th Century Confectionery in Hungary (Éliás), 223–
24
Domestic Receipt Book (Beecher), 748
Dominican Republic sugar politics, 548
“Don’t Mess with Our Chocolate” campaign, 316
dorayaki (Gong Cake), 375
Doughnut Corporation of America, 227
Dover Stamping Company, 785–
86
dövme dondurma (beaten ice cream), 746
Down the Santa Fe Trail and into Mexico (Magoffin), 638
Dr. Atkins’ Diet Revolution (Atkins), 672
Dragon’s Beard toffee, 141,
746
dried fruit, 227–29
Native Americans and, 470,
495
as sweets in ancient world, 12
drugs, recreational, sweets and, 527,
679
du Plessis-Praslin, César comte, 556
Duff’s Ginger Bread Mix, 95
Dutch West India Company, 763
dyesazo dyes (coal tar dyes), 263
in children’s candies, 133
E
Each Peach Pear Plum (Ahlberg), 136
ear flower as flavoring for chocolate, 150
Early California Hospitality (Packman), 638
Easter, 234–35
chocolate Easter eggs, 479
zoomorphic sweets for, 18,
235
Eating Right in the Renaissance (Albala), 177
“Eating Up and Down the Coast” (Calahan and Richardson), 783
École du Grand Chocolat, 762
edible souvenirs from fairs, 249–
50
Edith Adam’s Fourteenth Prize Cookbook (Vancouver Sun), 467
Educational Foundation Accrediting Commission, 512
Eid al-Fitrnamed Şeker Bayram (Sugar Feast) in Turkey, 745
Eierlikör (advocaat), 236
Eldridge, William T., 354
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The (Wolfe), 384
Electric Refrigerator Menus and Recipes (Bradley), 353
Elegante Theetisch, Der (Le Goullon), 710
Elinor Fettiplace’s Receipt Book, 754
Elmer’s Candy Company, 479
Emperors of Chocolate, The (Brenner), 105
Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, The (Marks), 326,
581
Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery, The, 346
Encyclopédie (Diderot and d’Alembert), 514,
785
English Food (Grigson), 564
English Housewife, The (Markham), 47,
48,
534,
729
Epicurian, The (Ranhofer), 44–
45
Erasmus collection of proverbs, 559
Escoffier, Georges Auguste, 242, 242. See also Guide culinaire, Le (Escoffier)
peach Melba and poire Belle Hélène, 219
simplification of stages of sugar syrup, 652
ethanol fuel from sugarcane, 58,
59
Etiquette in Society, in Business, in Politics and at Home (Post), 108
Europe. See also Central Europe;
individual countries
influence on Turkish confectionery, 747–
48
influenced by
Middle Eastern sweets, 448
Evaporated Milk Association, 244
Every Body’s Cook and Receipt Book (Hardin), 450
Everyday French Cooking for the American Home (Pellaprat), 197
Excellent et moult utile opuscule (Excellent and Very Useful Little Work) (Nostradamus), 485
Exhibition Basics (Alhäuser), 28
Experienced English Housekeeper, The (Raffald)Bride Cake with icing, 781
Experimental Cuisine Collective, 680
Experiments and Observations (Slare), 672
extra-fine sugar (fruit sugar), 664
F
Fahlberg, Constantin, 672
Fall of Troy, The (Smyrnaeus), 605
Family Dictionary, The: or, Houshold Companion (Salmon), 533–
34
fan palm, Native American use of, 470
Fancy Ices (Marshall), 348,
428,
609recipes for ice cream cones, 350
Fanjul, Alfonso “Alfy,” 11,
681
Fanjul, José Pepe, Sr., 11
fastingevolution of stollen and, 657
Fasting, Feasting (Desai), 410
fatias douradas (fried bread), 554
Female Emigrant’s Guide, The (Trail), 97–
98
fermentation, 253–54lead metal in fermentation of alcohol, 397
Ferrara Candy Company, 246
Ferrara Pan Candy Company, 291
fertility rituals, sweets evoking, 17
Festive Food of China, The (Deh-Ta Hsiung), 645
Feuerzangenbowle (fire-tong punch), 566
Filippini, Alessandro, 221
films and sweets
Cook, The Thief, His Wife and Her Lover, The (film), 190
Kings of Pastry (film), 170
Nine 1/2 Weeks (film), 614–
15
Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory (film), 291
Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, The (Embury), 406,
407
Five Roses Cookbook, The, 98
Flagg, James Montgomery, 579
Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association, 764
Flavor of France (Chamberlain), 197
Fleers Chewing Gum Company, 129,
529
Fleur de sel de Guérande, 591
Flexner, Stuart Berg, 167
Floor Cake (Oldenburg), 26
flour, 259–61
starch major component of, 653
types of wheat flour, 260
wheat flour in pie dough, 536
Food and Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent (Farmer), 252
Food and Drug Administration, 400
food colorings, 263–64
dangerous synthetic pigments, 327
and perception of sweetness, 475,
773
food fights in culinary festivals, 255
Food of Portugal, The (Anderson), 765
food purity legislation, 400
Foods Men Hurry Home For!, 58
Forbidden Pleasures (Callis), 26–
27
Ford Gum and Machine Company, 316
Foreign Candy Company, 247
Forme of Cury, The
early English cheesecake recipes, 124,
125
use of wafers in stewed hare, 775
Francatelli, Charles Elmé, 542
France, 268–74.
See also Paris
cultural importance of chestnuts, 128
influence on
Philadelphia confectionery, 528
laws on food adulteration, 400
master pastry chefs in (See Carême, Marie-Antoine (Antonin); Hermé, Pierre; Lenôtre, Gaston)
meaning of à la mode in, 1
Pastry Shop (etching, Bosse), 269
sugar riots during French Revolution, 688–89
Franco-American Food Company, 5
frangipane, 274,
433
in Twelfth Night cake, 749
Free Chocolate (Banks), 27
freezingAudiger’s instructions, 346
bakery products by Sara Lee, 593
with liquid nitrogen, 577
French Farmhouse Cookbook (Loomis), 164
French Pastry School (Chicago), 512
Friandises et leurs secrets, Les (Roberts), 50
fried sweets in Portugal, 554
Frisbie, William Russell, 276
fritelle di carnevale, 225
fritters, 276–77.
See also zalabiyaas ancient street food, 658
apple for Dutch New Year, 473
fried dough distinguished from, 274
made with choux pastry, 508
fromage glacé (molded ice cream), 528
Frugal Housewife (Carter)in American colonies, 756
chemical leavener in doughnut recipe, 226
on covered apple tart, 729
fruit(s), 277–79.
See also candied fruit;
dried fruit;
fruit pastes;
fruit preserves
cooked in sugar syrup, 394
dried (See dried fruit)
goodness associated with preserved, 705
imported to Latin America by Spain, 392
as main sweet in Southeast Asia, 635
as offering to Hindu deities, 331
in the Pacific Northwest, 495,
496
in sub-Saharan Africa, 660
syrups in early Christianity, 158
fruit juice adulteration, 4
fruit preserves, 282–86,
283.
See also marmaladebrought to Asia by Portuguese, 555
early European interest in, 706
spoon sweets in Greece, 309
fruits du vieux garçon, 273
G
Ganong, Gilbert and James, 413
Gastronomical Me, The (Fisher), 409
Gastronomie pratique, La (Ali-Bab), 205,
274
gâteau au fromage blanc, 124
Gem Ice Cream Freezer, 351
gender, 296–98
sugar consumption and, 684
types of pudding and, 563
Genesee Pure Food Company, 294,
295
genetic research on cacao bean, 146,
147–
48
genetics and preference for sweet tastes, 717
genitalia, breads and pastries shaped like, 21,
297
Gerbeaud, The (Niszács), 81
German Chocolate Cake, 396
German National Cookery for American Kitchens (Davidis), 167
Germany, 298–300.
See also Nuremberg
influence on sweets included in joy of Cooking, 579
poppy seed use in sweets, 550
World War II sugar rationing, 683
Ghirardelli, Domingo, 300
Ghost Pepper Super Hot Candy Balls, 247
gingerbread, 302–5
imported by Pennsylvania Dutch, 519
gingerbread houses, 163,
305
NECCO wafers used on, 471
gingerbread men, 163anthropomorphic cookies, 17
Gingerbread Seller, The (Delpech), 303
Giornale dei pasticcieri et confettieri (Journal of Pastry and Confectionery), 562
Girish Chandra Dey & Nakur Chandra Nandy, 382,
382,
592
glasses for syllabub, 724
glossiness and flavor, 773
Glucose Sugar Refining Corporation, 188
glyko koutaliou (spoon sweet), 309,
647
Gobstopper (jawbreaker), 327,
754
God of Small Things, The (Roy), 410
Gold Medal Products Co., 191
Goldber’s Peanut Chews, 529
Gonzales-Torres, Felix, 29
Good Food Guide Dinner Party Book (Martin), 657
Good Huswife’s Handmaide for the Kitchin, 498–
99,
611
Good Huswife’s Jewell, The (Dawson), 662,
741
Goodfellow, Elizabeth, 512,
528
Gourmet’s Menu Cookbook, 197
Graham, Sylvester, 75,
622
grains of paradise, 643–
44
Grand dictionnaire de cuisine (Dumas)
on types of appetites, 214
grand pères au sirop d’érable, 97
Granite Iron Ware Cookbook, 70
grape molasses (petimezi). See pekmez
grape syrup in ancient world, 12
Grapes of Wrath (Steinbeck), 409–
10
Gravity’s Rainbow (Pynchon), 410
Greece, 309–11dishes associated with Orthodox Church, 334
influence on sweets in Canada, 99
Greenfield, Albert M., 411
griesmeelpudding (semolina pudding), 474
gruels in Renaissance, 440–
41
Gugelhupf, 91,
311–13baba au rhum as synonym for, 41
in human and animal shapes, 17–
18
Guide culinaire, Le (Escoffier), 66,
242,
499
guilt, sweetness and, 410
Guriev, Alexandrovich, 318
gusht-e fil (elephant’s ear), 523
H
Hale Aerating eggbeater, 785
Hamen y León, Juan van der, 25
Handbook of Domestic Cookery, 730
Handbook of Practical Cookery (Blot), 786
Happiness Candy Stores, 411
Hardin, Maria Antoinette, 450
Hardly More Than Ever (Letinsky), 27
Harkin-Engel Protocol (2001), 132
Harry Potter, candies associated with, 292
Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, 138
Harvest Moon Festival, 385
Harvest of the Cold Months (David), 365
Harvey Wallbanger cake, 407
Have with You to Saffron-Walden (Nashe), 45
Havemeyer, Frederick Christian, Jr., 328
havermoutpap (oatmeal porridge), 474
Hawaii Sugar Planters Association, 541
Heem, Jan Davidsz. de, 25,
27
Heirloom Cacao Preservation Initiative, 147,
316
Helvetia Milk Condensing Company, 244
Hemstrought’s Bakery (Utica), 64–
65
Heracleides of Syracuse, 32
Hershey, Pennsylvania, 330
Hershey’s, 330–31acquisition of Scharffen Berger, 154
packaging and brand identity, 109–
10
Hesiod on making sweet wine, 712
hickory, Native American use of, 470
Hilltop Housewife Cookbook (Corlis, comp.), 96
Hinduism, 331–32
laddu as offering to deities, 391
Hines-Park Foods, Inc., 332
hippocras (hypocras), 333,
644
Histoire de la vie privée des Français (Le Grand d’Aussy), 292
Historia de las Indias (Durán), 151
Historia general de las cosas de la Nueva España (Bernardino de Sahagùn), 151
Historia Naturalis Brasiliae (Margrave), 582
Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, A (Achaya), 650
History of the Nature and Quality of Chocolate, A (Wadsworth), 22
H.O. Wilbur and Sons, 381
hojuelas de aceite y vino, 639
Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 741
Home Cookbook, The (Chicago Ladies), 786
home cooking, smells of, 24
Home Messenger Book of Tested Receipts, The (Stewart), 14,
646
Homemade Ice Cream Company, 205
honey, 336–40.
See also mead
in ancient world, 12,
658
in Austria-Hungary, 37–
38
importance in Russia, 583
as primary sweetener in premodern Korea, 385
religion and
in Rosh Hashanah meal, 579
replaced by molasses in Brazil, 71
in sub-Saharan Africa, 659
as term of endearment, 606
use in pre-Hispanic Mexico, 8,
443
Honey Pump at the Work Place (Beuys), 338
honeybees, 338
role in understanding of human sweet perception and metabolic disorders, 16
horchata de chufa (tiger nut milk), 640
Horlick, William and James, 420,
455
Hostess Brands, 6, 200, 341–42, 451. See also Twinkies
hot cakes, different meanings of, 500
Hot Fudge Ice Cream Cake (Big Boy chain), 543
“Hotel Life in New York” (London Times), 500
House of Lucullus or the Art of Eating, The (Camba), 640
House Servant’s Directory, The (Robert), 213
Housekeeping in Old Virginia, 633
How America Eats (Paddleford), 422–
23,
535
How to Mix Drinks, or The Bon Vivant’s Companion (Thomas), 406
How We Cook in Los Angeles (Whiting), 743
Howard, Edward Charles, 676
Howdy Doody Show, The, 200,
751
huesos de San Expedito, 640
Hughes Brothers Candy Factory, 132
Huntley & Palmers, 64,
710
Hurley, Doris Mattus, 321
hydrometer as Brix-measuring tool, 77
I
I Love to Eat (television program, Beard), 170
Iannaccone, Carminantonio, 737
ice cream, 345–49, 454. See also ice cream cones; sundae
fruit topper in Pacific Northwest, 495
in Pacific Northwest, 496
in the United States, 757
ice cream cones, 348,
350,
428,
775
Missouri state dessert, 655
for sale on boardwalks, 68
Ice Creams, Water Ices, Frozen Puddings (Rorer), 352,
609
ice houses in Persia, 523
ice trade, commercial, 576
iftarmuhallabiyya at end of, 574
Imperial Candy Company, 431
Imperial Sugar Company, 354–55
Improved Housewife, The (Webster), 196
In Another Place, Not Here (Brand), 410
India, 355–59, 565. See also Kolkata (Calcutta)afternoon tea of British women in, 733
in Asia Pacific confectionery market, 234
blancmange in Moghul cuisine, 67
decoration of sweets with silver, 398
early appearance to sugar trade, 693–
94
festivals (See Diwali)
Portuguese sweets in Goa, 555
production of kewra water, 262
reference to sweets in classic literature, 408
Indian Cookery (Balbir Singh), 49
Indian meal pound cake, 476
Indian Nectar, or a Discourse Concerning Chocolate, The (Stubbes), 22
Indonesia, 636–
37Portuguese influence in, 555
InsectNside Scorpion Brittle, 360
Institution, Laws and Ceremonies of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, The (Ashmole), 345
International Cocoa Initiative (2002), 132–
33
International Journal of Food Science & Technology, 591
Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung, 170
Interstate Bakeries Corporation, 751
Interstate Sugar Cane Growers Association, 111
Introduzione allo studio del dialetto siciliano (Avolio), 116
Iron Chef (television program), 170
Ishāq-e Hallāj (Bushaq), Abū, 523
Italian Confectioner, The (Jarrin), 375–
76
Italy, 366–69.
See also Sicily;
Venice
cultural importance of chestnuts, 128
Day of the Dead sweets, 209–
10
influence on
Austro-Hungarian cuisine, 36
Californian desserts, 783
medieval and Renaissance cheesecake, 125
strawberry festivals, 255
J
J. S. Fry & Sons. See Fry’s
Jack Benny Comedy-Variety Hour, 6
Jalbhara talsansh sandesh, 592
Jelly Doughnuts (Price), 28
Jenkinson, Eleanor L., 197
Jennie June’s American Cookery Book, 325,
715
Jet-Puffed Marshmallow Crème, 429
Jews. See also Judaism
honey in tradition of, 338
influence on baking in Canada, 99
Johnson & Wales University, 512
Jones, Catherine Cheremeteff, 235
juniper, Native Americans and, 469
Just Born Candy Company, 291,
649
K
kaʾb el-ghzal (gazelle’s horn), 483,
485
kağıt helva (paper helva), 746
Kalām ʿala al-aghdhiya, al- (Arbūlī), 117
Kalte Schale (Kaltschale), 630
Kama Sutra aphrodisiac recipes, 20
kanom farang kuti jin, 555
Kansas Home Cook, The, 70
karnemelkspap (buttermilk mush), 474
Kashiwa Funabashi (Funabashiya), 372
Katjes Katzenpfötchen (little cat’s paws), 403
Kawabata Dōki (Kyoto), 388
Keiller’s Dundee marmalades, 4,
426
Kellogg, John Harvey, 75,
672
Kellogg Company
started in the Midwest, 451
Kennedy Biscuit Works, 256
Kennedy’s Fig Bar Cookies, 49
keten helva (pişmaniye), 746
King Drinks, The (Jordaens), 54
King Khosrau and his Page, 42
Kitāb alaghdhiya (Book of Diet) (Marwān ibn Zuhr), 117
Kitāb al-Ṭabīkh (The Book of Dishes), 277,
447,
523first mention of halvah, 324
Kitāb al-Wuslaila al-Habib, 46,
448
Kitāb Waṣf al-Aṭʿima al-Muʿtāda (The Description of Famous Foods), 447–
48
Kitabu’t-Tabīh (Shirvani), 43
Knight, United States v., 699
Kohler, Charles Amédée, 472
Kokon meibutsu gozen gashi hidenshō (Secret Writings on Famous Japanese Confectionery New and Old), 388
Kokon meibutsu gozen gashi zushiki (Schema of Famous Japanese Confectionery New and Old), 388
Korea, 385–86
South Korea in Asia Pacific confectionery market, 234
koz helvası (nougat), 746,
747
Kraft Foods
started in the Midwest, 451
kringle as Wisconsin state dessert, 655
kuchen as South Dakota’s state dessert, 654
Kwanzaa, sweet potato pie for, 765
L
La Brocquière, Bertrandon de, 256
La Chapelle, Vincent, 628
Laboratory for Sugar Chemistry and Technology (Berlin), 675
lactic acid fermentation, 253
Ladies’ Anti-Slavery associations, 546
Ladies Directory (Woolley), 178
Ladurée, 268,
505
invention of filled macarons, 416
“Lake Isle of Innisfree, The” (Yeats), 338
lammetjespap/zoetepap (meal pap), 474
Lancaster Caramel Company, 329
Lancelot de Casteauon moutarde de Cremone, 463
Laperche, Jeanne Philomène (Pierre de Coulevain), 590
Large Food Display (Flegel), 24
Larousse gastronomique
definition of croquembouche, 199
Last Cake Standing (television program), 171
Latin America, 392–94.
See also individual countries
influence on sweets in Canada, 99
Latvia names for gingerbread, 305
lauzinaj (lawzinaj, lawzinaq, luzina), 395,
447,
448,
522term lozenge derived from, 414
layer cake, 395–97seasonality in Scandinavia, 597
Le Goullon, François, 710
Le Grand d’Aussy, Pierre Jean-Baptiste, 292,
690
leaf, gold and silver, 398
leaves used for flavoring, 246
Lefèvre, Jean Romain, 400
Legendary Cuisine of Persia, The (Shaida), 765
lemon
as dessert flavoring in the American West, 782
Lenôtre, Gaston, 402emergence of la pâtisserie moderne, 92
Lent
Greek versions of sweets for, 310
piñata tradition and, 537
Leopard, The (Tomasi di Lampedusa), 410
Leszczyński, Stanisław, 41,
301
Levi-Strauss, Claude, 278
Libre de totes maneres de confits, 102
Like Water for Chocolate (Esquivel), 410
Limpert Brothers Inc., 429
Lindy’s (New York City), 481
Linguanotto, Roberto, 737
Linzer Weichseltorte, 406
Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, The (Lewis), 136–
37
Liquid Carbonic Company, 626
Listening to America (Flexner), 167
Lithuania Carnival sweets, 115
Little House on the Prairie (Wilder), 136
Livre de conserves, Le (Gouffé), 178
Livre de métiers, Le (Boileau), 313
Livre de pâtisserie, Le (Gouffé), 178–
79
illustration of dessert mold, 122
lobbying, art of, as sugar legacy, 548
London Labour and the London Poor (Mayhew), 578,
753
Loomis, Susan Herrmann, 164
Loose-Wiles Biscuit Company, 649
Lopez de Santa Anna, Antonio, 129
Louisiana. See also New OrleansCajuns’ use of cane syrup, 110–
11
post-bellum politics of sugar, 547
Louisiana Sugar Planters’ Association, 547
Louisiana Sugar Refining, 355
love and sexassociation with sweetness, 20,
297
Low Countries Carnival sweets, 115
lozenge(s), 414
derived from lauzinaj, 395
M
maccheroni Natalizi con le noci, 368
MacNeil Nutritionals, 731
MacRobertson’s Chocolates, 34
Madagascar vanilla production, 764
Madhur Jaffrey’s Indian Cookery (Jaffrey), 61
Magoffin, Susan Shelby, 638
Maida Heatter’s Book of Great Cookies, 581
Mailänderli/milanais, 723
Maillard, Henry, Jr., 418
Maison réglée, La (Audiger), 346
Maître d’hôtel français, Le (Carême), 114
Mandelslo, Johan Albrecht de, 555
Mandelslo’s Travels in Western India, 565
Manuel complet de la maîtresse de maison et de la parfaite ménagère (Celnart), 566
manufacturing confectioners, 529
Marggraf, Andreas Sigismund, 298,
675
Mars, Inc., 426–27
in Chinese confectionery market, 233
Marshall, Agnes Bertha, 427–28, 428. See also Fancy Ices (Marshall)
mention of freezing with liquid nitrogen, 577
Marshmallow Brownie Pudding, 757
marshmallows, 430–31,
622advertising by The Camp Fire Co., 430
Martha Stewart Living, 93
Marwān ibn Zuhr, Abū, 117
marzipan, 172,
432–33
brought to Asia by Portuguese, 555
given for St. Nicholas in Holland, 473
imported by Pennsylvania Dutch, 519
produced by Niederegger, 482
sculptures by da Vinci, 214
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Child)
Materia Medica (Hernández), 21
Matsuya kaiki (Matsuya Record of Gatherings), 388
Mattus, Reuben and Rose, 321
May, Robert
on pippin and pear tarts, 729
mazapanes (marzipan), 639
McCullough, John Fremont “Grandpa,” 205,
206
McGee, Haroldon color of poppy seeds, 550
McKee, O. D. and Ruth, 411
McKee Foods Corporation, 411
medicine
doctrine of signatures, 22
preserved fruits and, 283
use of angelica in herbal medicine, 15
Mediterranean countries. See also individual countriescontemporary candied fruit production, 102
pekmez as sweetener in, 518
Mège-Mouriès, Hippolyte, 613
Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, 170,
505
Meissonier, Juste-Aurèle, 301
Mellowcreme Pumpkins, 323
membrillo (dulce de membrillo), 282
Mémorial historique et géographique de la pâtisserie, Le (Lacam), 743
Ménagier de Paris, Leon cultivating herbs and fruit, 503
recipes
for tarts and cakes with fresh cheese, 124
sample menus ending with wafers and hippocras, 775
on spices for hippocras, 333
Mercier, Louis-Sébastien, 688
meringue, 441–43, 535. See also pavlova
meringues à la crème de Gruyère, 723
mesquite, Native American use of, 469
Mexico, 443–45
influence on Western desserts, 783
sweets for the Day of the Dead, 209
mézeskalács (honey cakes), 80
Middle Agesalmond-based foodstuffs, 417
Arab cuisine and origin of blancmange, 65–
66,
447
Arabic recipes of lauzinaj, 395
culinary trompe l’oeil in Europe, 742
food-related trades and guilds, 313
Italian cookies and sweets from, 366
refined sugar in Germany, 298
sugar in the Netherlands, 473
Middle East, 446,
446–49
origin of candied fruit techniques, 100
origin of sugar sculpture, 689
sugar refineries in, 684–
85
sugarcane cultivation, 694
Midsummer Night’s Dream, A (Shakespeare), 60
military sweets, 451–53,
452candy bars in survival rations, 7
milk chocolate bar
created by Daniel Peter, 524
millet in traditional Japanese confectionery, 371
Milton Bradley Company, 108
Miss Leslie’s New Receipts for Cooking (Leslie), 785
Miss Parloa’s Kitchen Companion, 70
Mistanna Pak (Mukhopadhyay), 580
misthi dol (lal doi), 359
Mistikatha (newsletter), 580
Mitchell, James Henry, 256
Mitchell, William A., 187,
549
mixers, mechanical stand, 513
Modern Cook, The (Francatelli), 542
Modern Cookery for Private Families (Acton)
recipe for Everton toffee, 738
Modern Husbandman, The (Ellis), 748
molasses, 459–60,
666added to white sugar to make brown sugar, 664
byproduct of sugar production, 701
as distinguished from sorghum syrup, 627
in homemade Pennsylvania Dutch confectionery, 519
in sugar plantations, 540
Molasses Acts (1733), 459,
756
molds, jelly and ice cream, 460,
460–61
for gelatin desserts, 295
molochnaya stroganina, 585
Monell Chemical Senses Center, 16,
24
Montaigne, Michel de, 299
morality and sweets in the United States, 758
More Classic Italian Cooking (Hazan), 365
Moritz, C. F. See 20th Century Cookbook, The (Mortiz and Kahn)
Morning Star, The (newspaper), 64
Morrison, Walter Frederick, 276
Mortillaro, Vincenzo, 116
Motamayor, Juan Carlos, 147–
48
Mr Gumpy’s Outing (Burningham), 136
Mrs A. B. Marshall’s Book of Cookery, 428
Mrs A. B. Marshall’s Larger Cookery Book of Extra Recipes, 428
Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (Beeton), 52,
53
on simple epergnes called tazzas, 241
Mrs Eales’s Receipts (Eales)first English confectionery book, 178
Mrs McLintock’s Receipts for Cookery and Pastry Work, 610
Mrs. Seely’s Cook Book, 460
muhallabiyya, 447,
449at end of Ramadan iftar meal, 574
origin of blancmange, 65–
66
Mukhopadhyay, Ashoke Kumar, 398
Mukhopadhyay, Bipradas, 517,
580
Murrie, Bruce, 575partnership with Forrest Mars, 415
musk in Istanbul’s cuisine, 363
Mustafa Ali of Gallipoli, 362
Mystery of Edwin Drood, The (Dickens), 413
N
Nabisco
Barnum’s Animal Crackers, 15
started in the Midwest, 451
Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from the La Brea Bakery (Silverton), 280
Nanshoku ōkagami (The Great Mirror of Male Love) (Toraya), 388
Naples biskets (biscuits), 621,
646
National Biscuit Company. See Nabisco
National Confectioners Association, 7,
761
National Dunking Association, 227
National Sweet Sorghum Producers and Processors Association (NSSPPA), 627–
28
Native Americans
in the Pacific Northwest, 495,
496
Natural Sweet Ventures, 355
Nebraska Consolidated Milling, 332
NECCO Wafers, 123for soldiers during World War II, 471
Nelson, Christian K., 6,
243
Néo-physiologie du gout par ordre alphabétique, ou dictionnaire général de la cuisine française (Grimod de la Reynière), 417
Nestlé, 472–73advertising of Quik to children, 7
origin of tres leches cake recipe, 740
Nestlé, Henri, 174,
525
first bar of milk chocolate, 105
invention of powdered milk, 146,
525
Netherlands, 473–74influence on New York City baked goods, 480
Neues saltzburgisches Koch-Buch (Hagger)
recipe for Linzer Torte, 405
neuroscience, 474–76research on olfaction and taste, 492–
93
New Art of Cookery, The, 347
New Cookbook and Marketing Guide (Parloa), 353
New England Confectionery Company (NECCO). See NECCO
New Kochbuch, Ein (Rumpolt)
on sugar confections, 298
New Orleans, 478–80
use of orange flower water, 262
New System of Domestic Cookery, A (Rundell)apple charlotte recipe, 122
New York City, 480–82black and white cookies, 64
New York Cooking Academy, 512
New York Glucose Corporation, 188
New York Times
on spread of term “à la mode,” 1
New-York Farmer and American Gardener’s Magazine, 611–
12
Next Great Baker (television program), 171
niangao (New Year cakes), 142
Nice Cup of Tea and a Sit Down (website and book), 63
1910 Hotel St. Francis Cook Book, The (Hirtzler), 783
Nirvana (Ernest Arthur Cardnell), 94
Noble, Robert and Edward, 404
Norris Manufacturing Company, 316
Noshe Djan: Afghan Food and Cookery (Saberi), 61
Notes on Cuisine (Leonardo da Vinci), 214
Notes on the Synthesis of Form (Alexander), 214
nougat de Montélimar, 486
Nouveau cuisinier (de Lune), 239
Nouveau grand dictionnaire françois, latin et polonois et sa place dans la lexicographie polonaise, 41
Nouveau manuel complet du pâtissier (Le Blanc), 451
nouvelle cuisinedecoration of plated desserts, 542
Nouvelle instruction pour les confitures (Massialot), 177,
178
on serving dish for wet sweetmeats, 604
Nouvelle Instruction pour les confitures, les liqueurs, et les fruits, 417
Nutella, 487–88as filling of hamantaschen, 324
soup in the Philippines, 531
nuts, 489–90.
See also specific nuts
as flavoring of liqueurs, 407
in Linzer Torte dough, 405
in the Pacific Northwest, 495
use of flour in Switzerland, 722
O
O’Bryan, Ronald Clark, 323
Ocklye Cookery Book (Jenkinson), 197
Oekonomische Encyclopädie (Economic Encyclopedia) (Krünitz), 440
“Old Vicarage, Grantchester, The” (Brooke), 338
Oleo-Margarine Manufacturing Company, 613
om ʿAli (mother of Ali), 449,
483
On Farming (Cato the Elder)
On Lemon, Its Drinking and Use (Ibn Jumayʾ), 401
One Hundred & One Layer Cakes (Southworth), 396
Opera (Scappi)in Catherine de Medici’s library, 438
illustration of whisk, 785
Orion Confectionery Company, 386
Ornamental Confectionery and The Art of Baking in All Its Branches (Hueg), 562
Orthodox Christianityfoods for All Saint’s and All Souls’ Days, 160
Greek dishes associated with, 334
Ottoman Empire
influence on Austria-Hungary, 36,
80
sweet courses during grand meals, 747
sweets during Ramadan, 574
Ouverture de cuisine par maistre Lancelot de Casteauon moutarde de Cremone, 463
overflødighedshorn (cornucopia), 598
Oxford Companion to Food, The, 563
Oxford English Dictionarydefinition of coffee cake, 167
definition of liqueur, 406
definition of ratafia, 406
etymology of Cockaigne, 251
oznei Haman. See hamantschen
P
Pacific Northwest (U.S.), 495–97
Padovani, Clara Vada, 368
Palmer House Hotel (Chicago), 78,
450
panecillos de San Antón, 640
pantrydessert dishes coming from, 212,
215
Le Cannameliste français on functions of, 301
pantua, 359ledikeni compared to, 399
pão de ló (sponge cake), 552
papo de anjo (angel’s double chin), 554
Parker House (Boston), 69
Parkinson, George and Eleanor, 528
Parkinson, James Wood, 528–
29
Parloa, Maria, 70,
287
Charlotte Russe No. 2 recipe, 353
parsnip as sweetener, 765
Pasteleria Ideal (Mexico), 445
pastizotti tal-qastan, 128
Paston-Williams, Sara, 243
pastries, 534custard as filling for, 202
as dessert in Portugal, 552
Pennsylvania Dutch, 520–
21
pastry chef, 509–11“Costume for a Pastry Cook” (Valck), 510
sugar worker distinguished from, 171
Pastry Shop (etching, Bosse), 269
pastry tools, 513–16in Encyclopédie (Diderot and d’Alembert), 514
pâte feuilletée
renversée (inversée), 509
Pâtisserie d’aujourd’hui (Urban-Dubois), 122
Pâtissier françois, Le (La Varenne)
first European cookbook devoted to pastry, 268
first recognizable cakes, 286
recipe for pâte feuilletée, 508
Pâtissier pittoresque, Le (Carême), 114,
178,
268
Pâtissier royal parisien, Le (Carême), 114,
122,
505
patron saints
votive sweets devoted to, in Spain, 640
Pattinson, Nellie Lyle, 98
peanuts
introduced by Portuguese in China, 555
in southern desserts, 633
in sub-Saharan sweets, 660
pecansin southern desserts, 632,
633
Peeters, Clara, 24paintings of wedding banquets, 780
Still Life with Candle, Sweets, and Wine, 25
Pellaprat, Henri-Paul
recipe for crème brûlée, 197
Pennsylvania whoopie pies, 786
Pereda, Antonio de, 25,
27
Perfect Hostess, The (Knopf), 581
perfumes based on dessert aromas, 23
Permanent Rose (McKay), 137
Persia, 522–24.
See also Iran
diffusion of sugarcane to, 694
influence on
North African cuisine, 483
sugar and physicians, 439
Petit dictionnaire de cuisine (Dumas), 199
petits pâtés de Pénézas, 273
Petits Propos Culinaires, 196
Philadelphia National Candy Gift and Gourmet Show, 529
photography, sweets in, 25,
26
Photorealism, sweets in, 26
Physiologie du goût, La (Brillat-Savarin), 451
Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano, 100
pinyon, Native American use, 470
planks (ginger cakes), 478
plantations, sugar, 539–42
and electricity surplus production, 59
tariff protection and, 399
Pliny the Elderon long-lasting baked goods, 61
Poland
names for gingerbread, 305
Pomfret Cake (Pontefract Cake), 403
Post, Charles Williams, 75
pouding au chômeur (poor man’s pudding), 97,
425
Practical Confectioner, The (journal), 562
Practical Confectionery Art (Weber), 778
Praktisches Kochbuch (Davidis), 167
Pralinenmeister, Der (Haacke), 27
Pratica e Scalcaria (Frugoli), 125
Presbyterian Cook Book, 396
preservation of foodsearly confectionery books on, 177
prickly pear, Native American use of, 470
Prinsesstårta (princess cake), 596,
646
processed foods
sugary ingredients in, 756
Twinkies and demand for, 751
Procope, Le (Paris), 89,
504
Procopio dei Coltelli, Francesco, 89
Procter & Gambleacquisition of Duncan Hines cake mixes, 332
Propre New Booke of Cokery, A, 534
Pudding Shop (Istanbul), 364
pudim de leite (milk pudding), 553,
563
pudim veludo (velvet pudding), 553
“pure food” movement, 133
Purim
hamantaschen served at, 325,
379
Purim Fritters (French Toast), 325
Q
qarni yārūq (split belly), 448
Qímín Yàoshù (Essential Techniques for the Welfare of the People), 419
Quaker City Confectionery Company, 529
Quaker Oats Company, 75started in the Midwest, 451
Quakers as confectioners, 174,
528
Quebecmaple syrup desserts in, 97
maple syrup production, 424
Queen-like Closet, The (Woolley), 173,
180,
604
quick breads, 75chemical leaveners in, 126
quince preserves as symbol of happiness, 278
Quittenkäse (Quittenpästli) (quince paste), 282
Quitteschpeck (quince paste), 519
R
Ragvaglio della solenne comparsa (Wright), 692
ravioli dolci (cauciuni), 368
Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, 330
refractometer, 652as Brix-measuring tool, 78
refrigeration, 575–77
impact on ice cream makers, 351
Reinstein, Kathi-Anne, 430
religious celebrations/holidays. See also specific holidays by name
Remembrance of Things Past (Proust), 23
Renaissance
ambergris as flavoring, 10
glass containers for sweets, 108
serving pieces in Italy, 603
sweetness in literature, 409
Renaissance Wedding, A (Bridgeman), 779
Retail Confectioners’ Association (Philadelphia), 529
Revised American Candy Maker, 744
ricein early Thai sweets, 735
in traditional Japanese confectionery, 371
use in southern desserts, 632
rice cakes. See also mochi
rice pudding, 747
riz au lait in New Orleans, 478
ricotta in cheesecake, 125
Rime Sparse (Petrarch)on power of sweetness, 409
rituals
sugar use in religious, 682
rizz bi-ḥalīb (rice pudding), 449
Robbins, Irvine “Irv,” 50,
51
Roberts, Annie Perrier, 50
Robertson, Macpherson, 34
Rohr, Julius Bernhard von, 240
rolling pins, 515for imprinting springerle cookies, 648
Romance of Chocolate, The (William Nielson Ltd.), 137
Room of One’s Own, A (Woolf), 410
root vegetables in Chinese sweets, 139
roots used for flavoring, 246
rose geranium plant leaves, 246
Roshen Confectionary Corporation, 39
rosquillas de Santa Clara, 640
Rowntree
license of brands to Hershey’s, 330
Royal Cookery (Lamb), 145
royal icing (sugar icing), 353,
781
Rueckheim, Frederick, 192
rum (rhum), 581–83
byproduct of sugar production, 701
naval rum ration, 583
West India Interest lobby and, 545
Rumi, Mevlana Jalaladdin, 745
Russell Stover Candies, 528
Russia, 583–86anthropomorphic and zoomorphic sweets, 18
influence on Finland sweets, 599
names for gingerbread, 305
World War II sugar rationing, 683
Ruszwurm sweetshop (Budapest), 80
Ruth, George Herman “Babe,” 648
rye flour in early gingerbread, 393
S
Sacchi, Bartolomeo (Platina), 440
Sacred Heart (Red/Gold) (Koons), 26
Sagramosa, Anna Margarita, 405
saguaro, Native American use of, 469
Saison in Salzburg (Raymond), 37
Sala, Charles Augustus, 44
salt, 591
in Dutch licorice candies, 403
san martino a cavallo cookies, 17
São Tomé sugar production, 695,
696
Savoring the Past (Wheaton), 286
Scalco alla moderna, Lo (Latini), 394
Scharffen Berger Chocolate, 153
Scharffenberger, John, 146,
153
Scharffenberger Chocolate, 146
schiacciata alla fiorentina, 116
School for Professional Cookery (Washburne School) (Chicago), 512
Schulkochbuch (Oetker), 491
Schwenkfelder Wedding Cake, 521
Science and Civilisation in China (Needham), 576
Science du Maître d’hôtel confiseur, La (Menon), 178,
192
Scienza i cucina e l’arte di mangiare bene, La (Artusi), 463
Sclalco alla moderna, Lo (Latini), 795
Searle Pharmaceutical, 30
Sears, Roebuck Catalogue, The, 78
seasonalityof layer cake in Scandinavia, 597
Secret of the Bakers and Confectioners’ Trade (Hounihan), 15
Secrets gourmands (Hermé and Gérardin), 329
Secrets of Master Alexis of Piedmont, 177
seeds used for flavoring, 246
Seinfeld on black and white cookies, 65,
481
semifreddo (perfetti), 218–
19
semolina in Ramadan sweets, 574
Seventy-five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats (Leslie), 174,
396
Sex and the City (cable-television series), 200
Seyahatname (Book of Travels) (Çelebi), 324
Shakespeare, William, 409
sharbat as love potion, 21
sherbet, 608–10
brought by Ottomans to Europe, 747
Sherbet and Spice (Işın), 61
Sherman Antitrust Act, 11
Shilling Cookery for the People, A (Soyer), 781
Shrove Tuesday pancakes, 499
Shrovetide in Scandinavia, 598
Shtefano, Valentyn, 594–
95
Sicilyspread of sugarcane to Continental Europe, 695
sweets for feast Day of St. Lucia of Syracuse, 160
Siebell, Johann Hermann, 213
Singeron, Auguste Louis de, 481
Sir Henry Tate’s Mausoleum (Jamison), 679
Skillful Housewife’s Book (Abell), 226
Skuse’s Complete Confectioner, 191
Slang Dictionary (Hotten), 45
Slave Registration Bill, 546
slavery, 617–20
cooks on plantations, 632
end in British and French colonies, 697
plantations in colonial Venice, 767
Slavery Abolition Act (Britain, 1833), 546
slave-sugar industrial complex, 545
Slovakia names for gingerbread, 305
Sloveniarolled poppy seed cake, 550
Slow Mediterranean Kitchen, The (Wolfert), 111
Small Change (Pherecrates), 658
smoutebollen (croustillons), 336
social classchocolate as marker of in Aztec society, 151
cuisine during Persian Sassanid Empire, 522
Linzer Torte as status symbol, 405
soda consumption and, 624
Society for the Abolition of the Slave Trade, 546
soda, 623–24artificial sweeteners and, 30
high-fructose corn syrup in, 189
Soft Fur Good Humors (Oldenburg), 26
soft serve ice cream, 205
sohan papdi (patisa), 357–
58
Soleil, Jean-Baptiste François, 587
songs and risqué use of sweet foods, 606
Soupers de la cour (Menon), 197
Southern Barbarian Cookbook, The, 182
Southworth, May Elizabeth, 396
spaghetti latte fi mandorle, 368
Spain, 639–41anthropomorphic and zoomorphic sweets, 17,
18,
19
arrival of sugarcane after Muslim conquest, 694–
95
convents in colonies, 191
Day of the Dead sweets, 209,
210
influence on
sweets in the Philippines, 530
still life painting in, 25
sugar plantations in colonies, 540
Spanish-American War, 641–42unsweetened preserved milk during, 244
spekjes (marshmallow), 474
Spekkock (lapis legit), 396
Spreckels Sugar Company, 355
Squirrel Nut Zippers, 471
Sri Lanka, 635Portuguese influence in, 555
Sri Sri Ramkrishna Kathamrita (Gupta), 650
StarChefs International Pastry, 170
Stay Puft Marshmallow Man, 431
Steingarten, Jeffrey, 328
stems used for flavoring, 246
stereotypes, racial, 571–
72
stevia, 31,
655,
720
marketed by Imperial Holly, 355
Native American medicinal use, 469
Stewart, Isabella, 14,
646
Still Life with an Ebony Chest (Pereda), 25
Still Life with Cake (Peale), 25
Still Life with Candle, Sweets, and Wine (Peeters), 25
Still life with Manioc (Eckhout), 118
Still Life with Sweets and Pottery (van der Hamen), 25
Stohrer, Nicolas, 657Chef d’Office for Leszczyński, 302
inventor of baba au rhum, 41, 5043
storage of hard candies, 326–
27
Storia dei musulmani di sicilia (History of the Muslims in Sicily) (Amari), 117
strawberries
in the Pacific Northwest, 495
in southern desserts, 632
strawberry shortcake, 611–
12
Strawberry Tart Supreme (Flack), 26
Subtlety or the Marvelous Sugar Baby, A (Walker), 27,
572
Sucre d’Orge des Religieuses de Moret, 50
Süddeutsche Küche, Die (South German Cookery) (Prato), 36,
37,
441
sugar, 662–67
consumption
in the United States, 672
influence of demand on imperial power, 168
meanings in slang, 615–
16
price of
crash after World War I, 6
drop between 1870 and 1900, 4
sugar, biochemistry of, 667–69
sugar and health, 670–73,
671,
725
sweets as health-giving in North Africa, 485
in the United States, 758
Sugar and Spice (Işın), 171
Sugar Children, The (Muniz), 27,
540
sugar craft movement, 693
sugar in experimental cuisine, 511,
680
sugar nips, nippers, or snips, 602
sugar refineries, 684–85first ad for American sugar factory, 4
Sugar Refineries Company, 698
sugar refining, 663,
685–88
golden syrup as byproduct of, 306
management of sugar losses, 687–
88
sugar tongs and scissors, 602–
3
Sugar/Bittersweet (Campos-Pons), 27
Sugarcane Research Institute (India), 356
Sugar-Plums and Sherbet (Mason), 33
sukkar Sulaymāni, 42,
573
sümenek (semeni, samani, samanak), 785
“Summons of the Soul, The,” 408
sumptuary laws and sweets, 160
Sunshine Biscuit Company, 494
superfine sugar (bar sugar), 664
Survey of London (Stow), 49
suspiritos de Maria Santísima, 393
suspiros com ovos moles, 552
Swallows and Amazons (Ransome), 136
Sweden
export of gummies to North America, 317
sweet
terms of endearments based on, 606,
616
Sweet and Dangerous (Yudkin), 30
Sweet Genius (television program), 171
Sweet Miracle of Xylitol, The (Gare), 789
sweet root, Native American use of, 470
sweeten, meanings in slang, 615
Sweetening Lives for 75 Years (K. C. Das), 580
sweetnessconnotations in Chinese culture, 139
correlation to shape, 607,
773
difficulty of directly tasting, 475
Sweetness and Power (Mintz), 541
sweetseaten during moments of spiritual importance, 644
in India, 357t
as offering to Hindu deities, 331,
355
meaning dessert in Australia and New Zealand, 34
Sweets: A History of Temptation (Richardson), 172
on stickjaw and tom trot, 738
Sweets Company of America, The, 738
symbolic meanings, 724–25of foods at funerals, 288
of poppy-seed-based sweets, 551
of sugar in Islamic culture, 745
of sweetness in modern literature, 409
T
Table, The (Filippini), 221
Table of Desserts, A (de Heem), 25
Taggart Baking Companyacquired by Continental Baking Company, 341
Taiwan, introduction of sugar to, 233
“Take Me Out to the Ball Game” (song), 193
Talleyrand, Charles-Maurice, 113
tarte au sirop d’érable (maple syrup pie), 97,
425
tartes aux fruits, 272–
73
taste
effect of miracle berry on, 457
importance of sense of smell, 23
qualities of the sense of, 474
Tastee Freeze Company, 206
Tate & Lyle, 730–32acquisition of Amstar’s American Sugar Division, 11
Taylor’s (New York City), 481
Tea Shop, The (Bedford), 590
temperance movementice cream socials and, 352
tempering of chocolate, 146
Ten Views in the Island of Antigua (Clark), 618
terminology of pie, tart and flan, 534
testing
Carême on temperature, 114
Texas Cowboy Cooking (Perini), 638
Texas Sugar Refining Company, 355
texture, affected by sugar, 666
Thanksgiving celebrations
thickening agent, starch as, 653
Thiebauds series (Core), 26
Thomas Mills Manufacturing Company, 529
Thompson’s New York City, 481
3D printers and printed sweet foods, 217
Tienen Sugar Refinery, 678
Toll House Cook Book (Wakefield), 200
Toll House Cookies, 229,
478sent to military during World War II, 453
Tommy (rock opera, Russell), 614
tools, standardized, 436–
37
Top Chef Just Desserts (television program), 171
torrone di Cremona/di Benevento, 486
tortada de almendras, 640
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de, 179,
180
tourte de franchipanne, 274
Toussaint-Samat, Maguelonne, 705on sugared vegetables, 765
Townsend, Charles Watson, 1
Traditional Medicine of the Prophet (Ṭibb al-Nabī), 361
tragacanth, 740sugar sculpture and, 689–
90
Trail, Catharine Parr, 97–
98
Traité des fardemens et des confitures (Treaty on Make-up and Jams) (Nostradamus), 485
Traité des jeûnes de l’Eglise (Thomassin), 657
Trallianus, Alexander, 434
Tramping and Trailing with the Girl Scouts, 622
Travels during the years 1787, 1788, and 1789 (Young), 212
“Treacle Pie” (Graves), 410
Treatise on Foreign Vegetables (Thickness), 403
treize desserts de Noël, 254
Troisgros, Jean and Pierre, 402,
542
True and Exact History of The Island of Barbados (Ligon), 701
Tselementes, Nicholas, 311
Turkish Cookery Book (Efendi), 324
Turkish Delight. See lokum
turrón (nougat), 486
orange flower water in, 262
Twelfth Day Gift, The (Newbery), 135
Twelfth Night Cake, 163,
287,
749–50eaten on Mardi Gras in New Orleans, 479
sugar paste figures on, 94
Twentieth Century Candy Teacher (Appel), 112
20th Century Cookbook, The (Mortiz and Kahn), 325
U
Ukraine
names for gingerbread, 305
Ultimate Cake Off (television program), 171
Unger, Friedrichon Oriental confectionery, 363
United Kingdom, 753–56
meanings of pudding in, 562–
63
rock as seaside souvenir, 578
sweet tarts distinguished from pies, 729
World War II sugar rationing, 683
United States, 756–58.
See also American colonies;
Midwest;
New England;
New York City;
Pacific Northwest;
Philadelphia;
South;
West;
specific states
condensed milk during Civil War, 714
influence on sweets in the Philippines, 531
kinds of cheesecakes, 126
licorice as generic candy type, 403
maple syrup production, 423,
424
per capita ice cream consumption, 352
states’ official desserts, 396
strict division between main course food and dessert food, 711
World War I promotion use of cane syrup or molasses, 111
World War II sugar rationing, 683
United States Confectioners’ Tool Works, Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of Goods, 178
United States Industrial Alcohol Company, 71
United Yeast Company, 562
Untitled (Portrait of Ross in L.A.) (Gonzales-Torres), 29
Untitled #175 (Sherman), 28
Utile, Pauline Isabelle, 400
V
van Houten, Casparus, Sr., 474,
762
van Houten, Coenraad Johannes, 762–63
improvement of cocoa production, 87,
145
vegetable shortenings, 613–
14
Venezuela production of cacao, 153
Vertigo Pepper Candy, 247
Viandier, Le (Taillevent), 207
“Victim of the Window-Soaping Brigade, A?” (American Home), 323
Vienna, 37,
769–71
influence on Scandinavian pastry, 596
seventeenth-century coffee craze, 88
Vienna Guild of Confectioners, 770
View of Society and Manners in Italy, A (Moore), 346
violets, candied or crystallized, 100
violettes de Toulouse, 100
Virginia House-Wife, The (Randolph), 347
“Virtues of Honey in Preventing Many of the Worse Disorders, The” (Hill), 339
Vita di lo Beato Corrado, La (Rapi), 116
vitamins
lemonade and vitamin C, 401
Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 542
Voss, Matthias de, 36,
769
votive sweets in Spain, 640
W
walnuts
in medieval Baghdad sweets, 42
Warhol, Andy, 28cookie jar collection, 184
Warner, Richardon indecent table ornaments, 691,
743
on mass-produced sugar ornaments, 692
Washburn, Dorothy K., 150
Washburn Crosby Companybeginning of Betty Crocker, 57
watermelon, racial stereotypes and, 572
wax paper and packaging, 192
Wealthy Shopkeeper (Ward), 89
Weaverland Wedding Bread, 521
Weber, Johannes Martin Erich, 778
Weber’s Illustrated Textbook in Advanced Modern Confectionery (Weber), 778
Webster’s American Dictionary, 377
wedding(s), 778–79Icelandic vinarterta at, 771
sweets in Austria Hungary, 38
wedding cake(s), 725,
779–82
sugar paste figures on, 94
weight loss, artificial sweeteners and, 30
West Coast Cook Book (Brown), 783
West India Dock Company, 545–
46
West India Interest (sugar lobby in Britain), 545,
547,
674
wheat berries, 259,
784–85for All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days, 160
in Middle Eastern dishes, 448
spiritual significance, 645
wheat in traditional Japanese confectionery, 371
Whipped Cream & Other Delights (album), 594,
614
White Nights, Sugar Dreams (Attie), 29
White Rabbit creamy candies, 141
Whitman, Stephen F.boxed chocolates, 4–
5,
156
Whole Duty of a Woman, The, 604on sugar molded favors, 780
whole grains, religious significance of, 334
whoopie pie, 786–87as Maine’s state treat, 654
Wide Sargasso Sea (Rhys), 410
Wiener Bonbons (Johann Strauss II), 69
Wilberforce, William, 546
Wilbur Chocolate Company, 528
Wild Raspberries (Warhol), 28
Wilson, C. Anneon candied fruit and peel, 102
on origin of Easter Simnel, 235
Wilton, Dewey McKinley, 562
Winleitung zur Ceremoniel Wissenschaft der Privat-Person (van Rohr), 240
Wohl-unterwiesenen Kochin zufallige Confect-Tafel (Schellhammer), 178
Woman’s Home Companion, The, 252
womenin Maya chocolate making, 148–
49
World Cocoa Foundation, 316
World Dessert Championships, 170
World Health Organization and sugar lobbies, 682
World Pastry Championship, 170
World War Ichocolate bars for military, 453
promoting use of cane syrup or molasses, 111
sugar production in the U.S., 354,
683
World War II
effect on sugar industry, 11
impact on penny candy trade, 134
military rations
candy bars in survival rations, 7
Toll House Cookies during, 229
Worlde of Words, A (Florio), 741
World’s Columbian Exposition (Chicago, 1893), 192
World’s Fair (St. Louis, 1904)
Wright, John Michael, 692
Wrigley, 5
acquisition of Life Savers, 404
Wrigley, William, Jr., 130
Wunderle Candy Company, 323,
529
X
Y
Yale Food Addiction Scale (YFAS), 2–
3
yemas de San Leandro, 640
yemas de Santa Teresa, 640
Young Housekeeper’s Friend, The (Cornelius), 196
Yummy Book, The (Durkee-Mower Company), 786
yuppies as target market, 8
Z
Zamān al-Hamādhāni, Badiʾ al-, 412
zeppole di San Giuseppe, 275
Zimara, Marco Antonio, 576
Zimmermann’s Coffee House (Leipzig), 89
Zuckerbäcker für Frauen mittlerer Stände, Der (Zenker), 37
Zuckerturm (Sugar Tower) (Roth), 29
zuurballen/zuurtjes (acid drops), 474