Age affects fit 21
Alteration tools 22
Alterations
baggy back 26, 31–32, 38, 62, 67, 76, 158
bow legs 32
crotch length 7, 26, 28–29, 31, 43, 77, 83
crotch depth 25, 28–29, 31, 37, 71, 88, 156
crotch oddities 42–43
flat derriere 21, 26, 30–32, 42, 51, 56, 63, 67, 77, 83, 88, 90, 156,163
flat side 84
how to alter 24–35
low derriere 29,31,37, 38, 42–43, 62, 67, 158, 163
low front waist 30, 51, 67, 71, 84, 89
pelvic bone 42
maternity 169
ready-to-wear 169
smiles 7, 26, 29, 32, 37, 44, 83, smiles, false 30
straighten center front 27, 57, 70
summary of common alterations 35
sway back 32
tapering 147
thighs pull when walking 43, 52
thighs thin 29
weight change 168
Authors 4
Belt loops 109
Bias tape maker 109
Color 13
Crotch-o-meter 7
Crotch piecing 93
Cuffs 148
Cut ‘n press board 94
Cutting 92–94
Darts 27,38, 93, 98–99, 104–106
Design ideas 170–171
Drafting changes 14
Drawstring pants 114–116
Drawcord elastic 116
Ease
in various styles 12
types 20
Elastic waistbands 110–117
drawcord elastic 116
elastic back waistband 110
elastic waistband with zipper 110
fold-over casing 112
separate casing 113–114
Fabrics 15–17
affect fit 39
care 17
choices 15–17
fitting 36–43
flattering 13
marking pattern for different
fabrics 39
Faced waistline 118
Family Circle 7
Finished garment
measurements 20
Fit-as-you-sew 36
Flat-fell seam 162
Flattering pants 12–13
Fusible interfacing
facings 118
contour waistbands 119–120
pockets 123
Grading 19
Hems 145–148
lining 151
tapering 147
History 5–9
bias jeans 164
buttonholes 162
efficient sewing order 159–161
fabrics and preshrinking 162
hems 162
pocket design ideas 164
pocket lining 162
rivets 162
seams, flat-felled and mock flat-felled 162
thread 162
why sew 154
Jumpsuits 152–153
Leggings 12
Lining 149
Maternity 169
Measuring 18
Men’s pants 165–167
Metric chart 171
Mock flat-fell seam 162
Multisize 21
Notions
sewing 23
fitting 22
No-side-seam pant 117
Palmer/Pletsch
approach to pant fitting 10–11
patterns 21
books and products 174–176
Pantyhose 36
Pelvic bone alterations 42
Perfect Waistband Interfacing 105
Perfect Pattern Paper 22, 48, 60
Permanent pattern 41
Pins 23
Pockets 121–144
cargo pocket 125
double-welt back 140
fake double-welt 130
horizontal single-welt 142
patch pocket 124
pocket flap 124
side seam 121
single-layer topstitched 123
single-welt front 137
sporty designer side seam 122
sporty single-welt front 139
sporty topstitched trouser 129
trouser 71,126-129
vertical double welt front 130–136
stay 128
zipper patch pockets 125
zipper welt pocket 144
Posture 21
Pattern, prepare for fit 24
Pressing 95
Pull-on pants 112–117
Ripping 41
Real people
Alicia in fitted pants 62–66
Connie in fitted pants 55–59
Jean in trousers 82
Marta in fitted pants 50
Marta in trousers 88
Melissa in fitted pants 48
Melissa in low-rise 60
Sue in trousers 75
Susie in fitted pants 44
Verna—new waist fit 67
Seam finishes 94–95
Sewing order 39
Sewing tips 94
Size 18–21
Slits in hems 147
Stay Tape
pockets 126
contour waistband 120
Stirrups 148
Sway back 32
Tailor tacks 72
Tapering legs 147
Taut sewing 94
Thighs
thin 29
Tissue-fitting 10
fit the tissue 25
lining 151
marking fabric 72
preparing tissue 69
sewing order 73
tucks in lining 151
Truing seams 33
Underlining 149
Vogue pant pattern 6
Waistbands 105–120
fitting 40, 54, 80, 87, 105–108
flattering 13
non-roll 105–108
non-roll front 110
shaped non-roll 108
wrapped seam allowance 108
Waistline marking 34, 39, 52, 54
Wardrobe planning 13
Weight change 168
Welt pockets 130
double welt back 140
fake double welt 130
horizontal single welt 142
single welt front 137
sporty single welt front 139
zipper welt pocket 144
Yardage for pants 13
Zippers
centered 100
fly front 101
fly front for men 167
invisible 103
lapped 101
jeans 160
zipper patch pocket 125
zipper welt pocket 144